instructables

See-Through Arduino UNO

by jiripraus

Yeah, I've really done that. It was hard, took me Why I made it? I often have a hard time explaining
several days but I made it. In the end, it was an what free-form electronics are and how it looks like.
excellent experience and the most amazing thing is Freeduino is an excellent example of free-form
that Freeduino (that is how I call it) actually works. electronics art easily comparable to a well-known
And I would like to share my experience with you. device - Arduino UNO.

What is Freeduino? It's a famous Arduino UNO board Check out my simple brass LED jewelry for the basics
made without any circuit board. It uses a technique of brass soldering, required tools, and materials.
called free-form to interconnect components by wires
instead of a circuit board. And it looks beautiful!

Step 1: Understanding Arduino UNO Circuit

Prior to actually start soldering it, I needed to know what exactly is on board of Arduino UNO. I've separated the
circuit into 4 blocks:

See-Through Arduino UNO: Page 1

 ATmega328 MCU
ATmega328P PDIP
16MHz oscillator
debouncing capacitors

Power supply circuit

7-12V to 5V regulator
5V to 3.3V regulator
USB/input jack autoselect circuit
reverse current protection

USB to UART circuit

USB connector
serial converter chip (ATMEGA8U2-MU) with an oscillator and debouncing capacitors

Signal LEDs
power LED
default LED (D13)
TX/RX LEDs

Step 2: ATmega328 MCU and Its Data Plain

First I started with MCU and digital and analog IO pin run is an external 16MHz oscillator that needs two
headers. Arduino UNO has clever pin headers layout 22pF capacitors. This was the rst component that
which nicely matches the layout of the ATMEGA328 raised above the base plain. Minimal hardware for
28-DIP package. So no wires need to be crossed. Using ATmega328P is done. It was time for a rst test with a
a paper template this was an easy part. USBasp programmer via AVR ISCP interface.

The only external component for ATmega328 needs to

See-Through Arduino UNO: Page 2

Step 3: Power Supply Circuit

I made myself a special jig that holds the pin headers in datasheets.
in place leaving enough room for soldering -
"Freeduino shield"? To make it easier I've soldered the power circuit
outside the board and then put it above the data
ATmega328 is powered by 5V. Arduino UNO has two lines. This actually created a two-layer free-form
power input sources - 7-12V jack and 5V via the USB circuit. I omitted both the auto-select and reverse
connector. It also provides a 3.3V power supply for current protection parts because it would make it all
external components. This means 2 power regulators. quite complicated. They are not needed if you are nice
First to convert 7-12V to 5V and second to convert 5V to your board and always connect it to the power
to 3.3V. I've used two AMS1117 5V and 3.3V regulators supply properly.
with some capacitors according to recommendations

See-Through Arduino UNO: Page 3

Step 4: USB to UART Circuit

This one is important if you want to upload your suitable SOP-16 package and only requires 4 external
sketches via Arduino IDE without a need for a components - debouncing capacitor, reset capacitor,
programmer. Well, without it it wouldn't be so cool. and two Tx/Rx line resistors. The fact no external
Original Arduino UNO R3 uses ATMEGA8U2-MU which crystal is needed simpli es the whole circuit a lot.
is great but too small and unsuitable for free-form
circuits. I've decided to go with a CH340C chip. It has a

See-Through Arduino UNO: Page 4

Step 5: Signal LEDs

I don't like those large THT LEDs so I decided to use small SMD 1206 ones to signal Power, L, Tx, Rx communication.
I've regretted that a lot. I rst soldered an SMD resistor to them and then try to solder these pairs to wires. It was
quite tricky. I had to use low temperature of soldering iron and be pretty quick with it otherwise the other side of
the SMD component got desoldered.

See-Through Arduino UNO: Page 5

Step 6: Will It Blink?

First I connected an external power source to check power regulators. All the voltage levels were ne, so I
continued by connecting and USBasp programmer to upload a bootloader into the chip. Surprisingly the chip
communicated on the rst try. That was a good sign. External crystal works and all pins are connected correctly. The
last step was to connect the USB cable and try to upload a blinky sketch. See it yourself.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wf_KZKH_PI

Step 7: Make It Resistant

The Freeduino turned out pretty nicely. But it was Luckily the resin cast went just awesome. I had to
quite fragile. So I've decided to create a board for it. polish the bottom and sides of it since they had the
Don't worry it's a transparent one. Made from a clear marks of the 3D printed surface. But the end result is
casting resin. I've 3D printed mold, pour a clear resin just amazing. And it still works! Now I can add it to my
into it, and made the Freeduino a oat. It took 3 days collection.
to cure. I was pretty nervous. It took me a week of
soldering and now I could ruin all the work instantly.

See-Through Arduino UNO: Page 6

Step 8: It's Done

That's all! I am Jiri Praus.

Don't forget to share your creations! Like this Instagram, Twitter, YouTube
instructable, and consider supporting me on Patreon
where all the resources for all my intricate creations www.jiripraus.cz
are available.

See-Through Arduino UNO: Page 7

This is beautiful! And I never thought I'd say that about an Arduino board :)

Was it hard to cut the resin out of the 3D printed mold?

Surprisingly easy to get it out of the mold. I printed 2 layers bottom and sides and I was basically
able to just peel it off once cut on the edges.

See-Through Arduino UNO: Page 8