Apparel – Fabric & Garment

Test Procedures & Requirements

Manual

Prepared By : Patrick Ong

Dated : 04 September 2007
 Fabric Test procedure for USA

Development Bulk Production

Once fabric was selected, vendor/fabric All bulk fabrics will be tested in all
mill need to provide test report (Internal colorways. Once orders for bulk fabrics
report acceptable) to Fila HK - have been placed to the mill and 1st lot is
Ansgar/Patrick with copy to Business ready fabric testing can be done with
Manager in Fila USA - Ellen Cherry (Golf) ; ITS/SGS. This means we know the actual
Diane McCaffrey (Tennis) &/or Pamela fabric quality prior to bulk fabric shipment
Stubenbord (Costco). only.
Internal test report can be acceptable for
Any quality issue of the selected fabric Balance lot of Bulk fabric based on 1st lot
need to highlighted to above Fila people at test from ITS/SGS was passed.
development stage. Bulk fabric trims with same testing
procedure as of body fabric.
One set selected fabric send to FILA HK Vendor/fabric mill need to provide test
attention : Ansgar/Patrick with the fabric report (ITS/SGS report) to Fila HK -
sheet together with complete fabric details Ansgar/Patrick with copy to Business
for reference within 1 week. Manager in Fila USA - Ellen Cherry (Golf) ;
Diane McCaffrey (Tennis) &/or Pamela
Fabric Test prefer in sensative colors. Stubenbord (Costco).

Garment Test procedure for USA

Bulk Production

When 1st output from Bulk production. One piece

per each color Combo need to be test with
ITS/SGS.
Test report submit to Fila HK attention :
Ansgar/Patrick within one week from 1st piece
output date.
 Fabric Test procedure for International

Development Bulk Production

Once fabric was selected, vendor/fabric All bulk fabrics will be tested in all
mill need to provide test report (Internal colorways. Once orders for bulk fabrics
report acceptable) at the same time. have been placed to the mill and 1st lot is
ready fabric testing can be done with
Any quality issue of the selected fabric ITS. This means we know the actual fabric
need to highlighted to above Fila people at quality prior to bulk fabric shipment only.
development stage.

Vendor/fabric mill need to provide test

Fabric Test prefer in sensative colors. report (ITS report).

Garment Test procedure for International

Bulk Production

When 1st output from Bulk production. One piece

per each color Combo need to be test with ITS.
 Fabric Testing Requirement for the "Routine Check"

Woven Sport Knits Outerwear Jacket,

Products Sweater Woven Bottom Swim wear
Shirts/Blouse Top/Bottom Down/Fill Jacket

Dimensional Stability (all colors)

Dry Clean Shrinkage Mandatory on non-washable items
Washing Shrinkage M M M M M M

Fabric Strength (any one color)

Tensile Strength M No No M M M
Tear Strength M No No M M M
Seam Slippage M No No M M M
Pilling Opt M M M M M
Bursting Strength No M M No No Opt
Skewness / Twisting Opt M No Opt Opt Opt
Stretch & Recovery M (for stretch item) M (for stretch item) No M (for stretch item) M (for stretch item) No

Color Fastness (all colors)

to Water M M M M M M
to Washing M M M M M M
to Perspiration M M M M M M
to Crocking M M M M M M
to Light M M M M M M
to Non-chlorine bleach Opt Opt Opt Opt Opt M
to Sea Water No No No No No M
to Chlorine pool No No No No No M

Water Repellent/Resistant (all colors) No No No M (if declared) M (for rainwear) No

Flammability Mandatory for all fabrics with Raised surfarces and all fabric in weight less than 2.6 oz/yd.

Construction & Weight (any one color)

Construction Opt Opt Opt Opt Opt Opt
Weight Opt M M Opt Opt Opt
Yarn Count Opt Opt Opt Opt Opt Opt
Fibre Content Opt Opt Opt Opt Opt Opt

PH Level (for Garments Wash) (all

Mandatory for Garments treated with chemicals washing i.e. Enzyme, acids, etc.
colors)

Legend : M = Mandatory Opt = Optional No = Not necessary

 Additional Test for Special Fabric

Woven Sport Knits Outerwear Jacket,

Products Sweater Woven Bottom Swim wear
Shirts/Blouse Top/Bottom Down/Fill Jacket

Phenolic Yellowing
M M M M M No
(For Color White Only)

Dyed Transfer in Storage

M M M M M M
(For 100% Poly Fabric)

All fabric must be Free of banned

M M M M M M
AZO Dyed

Free Formaldephyed M M M M M M

Passed OEKO - 100 standard

M M M M M M
(for Europe Market)
 QUALITY MINIMUM REQUIREMENTS
COLOURFASTNESS TEST - ALL TEXTILE CLOTHING

Colourfastnes
s
Colourfastness
Colourfastness Colourfastness Colourfastness Colourfastness Colourfastness Colourfastness Colourfastness Colourfastness Dye tranfert
to chlorinated
to washing to dry cleaning to water to perspiration to crocking to light to ironing to sea water in storage
water (50 mg/l)
CATEGORY (fabric to
fabric)
ISO ISO ISO ISO ISO ISO ISO ISO ISO
AATCC AATCC AATCC AATCC AATCC AATCC AATCC AATCC AATCC JIS
105 105 105 105 105 105 105 105 105
61 132 107 15 8 16E 133 162 106 L0854
C06 D01 E01 E04 X12 B02 X11 E03 E02
CELLULOSIC FIBRES
SYNTHETIC FIBRES
AND
CELLULOSIC/SYNTHETIC
BLENDS
beachwear and beachwear and
- Change in colour 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 dry: 4 4 4-5
swimwear: 4-5 swimwear: 4-5
beachwear and
- Staining 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 wet: 4 - 4-5 4
swimwear: 4-5
WOOL AND WOOL
BLENDS
- Change in colour 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 dry: 4 4 4-5 not applicable not applicable

- Staining 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 wet: 4 - 4-5 not applicable not applicable 4

PIGMENT DYE/PRINT

- Change in colour 4 not applicable 4 4 dry: 4-5 4 4-5 not applicable not applicable

- Staining 4-5 not applicable 4-5 4-5 wet: 4 - 4 not applicable not applicable 4

INDIGO DENIMS

- Change in colour 3-4 not applicable 4 4 dry: 4-5 4 4 not applicable not applicable

- Staining 4-5 not applicable 4-5 4 wet: 4 - 4 not applicable not applicable 4

FLUORESCENT SHADES
beachwear and beachwear and
- Change in colour 4 4 4 4 dry: 3-4 4 4
swimwear: 3-4 swimwear: 4
beachwear and
- Staining 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 wet: 3 - 4 4
swimwear: 4

Remarks :
- For all white colour a phenolic yellowing (Courtaulds test method) test is required (requirement: grade 4).
- Testing report need to provide when development stage.
 QUALITY MINIMUM REQUIREMENTS
WEFT KNITTED FABRICS

Dimensional stability to washing Determination of Spirality Determination of pilling resistance Specific

CATEGORY Additional
ISO 6330 AATCC 135 AATCC 179 ISO 12945-1 ASTM D3512 Requirements
Over 130 gm2 :
after 1st wash:
Width: -4% / +2% Bursting Strength (Perforation) ASTM D3787 = 300 N
length: -4% / +2% after 5000 revs : after 30 min:
after 3rd wash: 4-5 class 4 Bursting Strength (Hydraulic Method) ISO 13938-1
Over 130 gm2 :
Width: -5% / +2% Over 130 gm2 : = 150 kPa
Width: -5% / +2%
length: -5% / +2% +/- 2% after 10000 revs:
length: -5% / +2%
3-4 For velour fabric:
100% cotton Under 130 gm2 : Under 130 gm/2 : Accelerotor abrasion (AATCC 93)
Under 130 gm/2 after 1st wash: +/- 3% after 18000 revs: Maximum weight loss: 15%
Width: -6% / +2% Width: -5% / +2% 3
length: -6% / +2% length: -5% / +2% Flammability : conforming 1610 CFR
after 3rd wash:
Width: -6% / +2%
length: -6% / +2%

after 1st wash: after 5000 revs : after 30 min: Bursting Strength (Perforation) ASTM D3787 = 300 N
SINGLE Width: -4% / +2% 4-5 class 4
cotton/
AND Width: -5% / +2% length: -4% / +2% +/- 3% after 10000 revs: Bursting Strength (Hydraulic Method) ISO 13938-1
synthetic
DOUBLE length: -5% / +2% after 3rd wash: 3-4 = 150 kPa
blends
JERSEY Width: -5% / +2% after 18000 revs:
FABRIC length: -5% / +2% 3 All elastic fabrics:
Stretch properties (ASTM D3107)
Depending on desired properties of end product (from
12% to 20% extension).
Maximum residual extension: 3%

Depending on desired properties of end product (from

21% to 40% extension).
Maximum residual extension: 5%

All filament yarns :

Snagging Test (Internal Method with ICI Pilling Box
Apparatus): grade 4

For velour fabric:

Accelerotor abrasion (AATCC 93)
Maximum weight loss: 15%

Flammability : conforming 1610 CFR

 Dimensional stability to washing Determination of Spirality Determination of pilling resistance Specific
CATEGORY Additional
ISO 6330 AATCC 135 AATCC 179 ISO 12945-1 ASTM D3512 Requirements

after 1st wash: after 5000 revs : after 30 min: Bursting Strength (Perforation) ASTM D3787 = 300 N
Width: -4% / +2% 4-5 class 4
100% acrylic
Width: -5% / +2% length: -4% / +2% +/- 3% after 10000 revs: Bursting Strength (Hydraulic Method) ISO 13938-1
and acrylic
length: -5% / +2% after 3rd wash: 4 = 150 kPa
blends
Width: -5% / +2% after 18000 revs:
length: -5% / +2% 3-4 All elastic fabrics:
Stretch properties (ASTM D3107)
Depending on desired properties of end product (from
12% to 20% extension).
Maximum residual extension: 3%

Depending on desired properties of end product (from

21% to 40% extension).
Maximum residual extension: 5%

All filament yarns :

Snagging Test (Internal Method with ICI Pilling Box
Apparatus): grade 4

Flammability : conforming 1610 CFR

SINGLE
AND
after 1st wash: after 5000 revs : after 30 min: Bursting Strength (Perforation) ASTM D3787 = 300 N
DOUBLE
Width: -4% / +2% 4-5 class 4
JERSEY 100% viscose
Width: -5% / +2% length: -4% / +2% +/- 3% after 10000 revs: Bursting Strength (Hydraulic Method) ISO 13938-1
FABRIC and viscose
length: -5% / +2% after 3rd wash: 3-4 = 150 kPa
blends
Width: -5% / +2% after 18000 revs:
length: -5% / +2% 3 All elastic fabrics:
Stretch properties (ASTM D3107)
Depending on desired properties of end product (from
12% to 20% extension).
Maximum residual extension: 3%

Depending on desired properties of end product (from

21% to 40% extension).
Maximum residual extension: 5%

All filament yarns :

Snagging Test (Internal Method with ICI Pilling Box
Apparatus): grade 4

For velour fabric:

Accelerotor abrasion (AATCC 93)
Maximum weight loss: 15%

Flammability : conforming 1610 CFR

 Dimensional stability to washing Determination of Spirality Determination of pilling resistance Specific
CATEGORY Additional
ISO 6330 AATCC 135 AATCC 179 ISO 12945-1 ASTM D3512 Requirements

after 1st wash: after 5000 revs : after 30 min: Bursting Strength (Perforation) ASTM D3787 = 300 N
100% polyester
Width: -4% / +2% 4-5 class 4
100% nylon
Width: -5% / +2% length: -4% / +2% +/- 3% after 10000 revs: Bursting Strength (Hydraulic Method) ISO 13938-1
and
length: -5% / +2% after 3rd wash: 4 = 150 kPa
synthetic
Width: -5% / +2% after 18000 revs:
blends
length: -5% / +2% 3-4 All elastic fabrics:
Stretch properties (ASTM D3107)
Depending on desired properties of end product (from
12% to 20% extension).
Maximum residual extension: 3%

Depending on desired properties of end product (from

21% to 40% extension).
Maximum residual extension: 5%

All filament yarns :

Snagging Test (Internal Method with ICI Pilling Box
Apparatus): grade 4

For velour fabric:

Accelerotor abrasion (AATCC 93)
Maximum weight loss: 15%

Flammability : conforming 1610 CFR

SINGLE
AND
DOUBLE
JERSEY after 1st wash: after 5000 revs : after 30 min: Bursting Strength (Perforation) ASTM D3787 = 300 N
FABRIC Width: -4% / +2% 4-5 class 4
100% wool
Width: -4% / +2% length: -3% / +2% +/- 3% after 10000 revs: Bursting Strength (Hydraulic Method) ISO 13938-1
and
length: -4% / +2% after 3rd wash: 3-4 = 150 kPa
wool blends
Width: -4% / +2% after 18000 revs:
length: -4% / +2% 3 All elastic fabrics:
Stretch properties (ASTM D3107)
Depending on desired properties of end product (from
12% to 20% extension).
Maximum residual extension: 3%

Depending on desired properties of end product (from

21% to 40% extension).
Maximum residual extension: 5%

All filament yarns :

Snagging Test (Internal Method with ICI Pilling Box
Apparatus): grade 4

For velour fabric:

Accelerotor abrasion (AATCC 93)
Maximum weight loss: 15%

Flammability : conforming 1610 CFR

 QUALITY MINIMUM REQUIREMENTS
WARP KNITTED FABRICS
Dimensional stability to washing Determination of pilling resistance Specific
CATEGORY Additional
ISO 6330 AATCC 135 ISO 12945-1 ASTM D3512 Requirements

Bursting Strength (Perforation) ASTM D3787 = 300 N

after 1st wash: after 5000 revs : after 30 min: Bursting Strength (Hydraulic Method) ISO 13938-1
Width: -4% / +2% 4-5 class 4 = 150 kPa
100% COTTON
Width: -5% / +2% length: -4% / +2%
COTTON AND after 10000 revs: All elastic fabrics:
length: -5% / +2% after 3rd wash:
SYNTHETIC BLENDS 3-4 Stretch properties (ASTM D3107)
Width: -5% / +2%
Depending on desired properties of end product (from 12% TO 20%
length: -5% / +2% after 18000 revs: 12% to 20% extension). Maximum residual extension: 3%
3
Depending on desired properties of end product (from 21% to 40%
extension). Maximum residual extension: 5%

All filament yarns :

Snagging Test (Internal Method with ICI Pilling Box Apparatus): grade 4

For velour fabric:

Accelerotor abrasion (AATCC 93)
Maximum weight loss: 15%

Flammability : conforming 1610 CFR

Bursting Strength (Perforation) ASTM D3787 = 300 N

after 5000 revs : after 30 min: Bursting Strength (Hydraulic Method) ISO 13938-1
after 1st wash: 4-5 class 4 = 150 kPa
100% POLYESTER
Width: -4% / +2%
100% NYLON
Width: -5% / +2% length: -4% / +2%
AND after 10000 revs: All elastic fabrics:
length: -5% / +2% after 3rd wash:
SYNTHETIC 4 Stretch properties (ASTM D3107)
Width: -5% / +2%
BLENDS Depending on desired properties of end product (from 12% TO 20%
length: -5% / +2%
after 18000 revs: 12% to 20% extension). Maximum residual extension: 3%
3-4
Depending on desired properties of end product (from 21% to 40%
extension). Maximum residual extension: 5%

All filament yarns :

Snagging Test (Internal Method with ICI Pilling Box Apparatus): grade 4

For velour fabric:

Accelerotor abrasion (AATCC 93)
Maximum weight loss: 15%

Flammability : conforming 1610 CFR

 Dimensional stability to washing Determination of pilling resistance Specific
CATEGORY Additional
ISO 6330 AATCC 135 ISO 12945-1 ASTM D3512 Requirements

after 5000 revs : after 30 min: Bursting Strength (Perforation) ASTM D3787 = 300 N
after 1st wash: 4-5 class 4
Width: -4% / +2%
Bursting Strength (Hydraulic Method) ISO 13938-1
100% ACRYLIC Width: -5% / +2% length: -4% / +2%
after 10000 revs: = 150 kPa
AND ACRYLIC BLENDS length: -5% / +2% after 3rd wash:
Width: -5% / +2% 4
length: -5% / +2% All elastic fabrics:
after 18000 revs: Stretch properties (ASTM D3107)
3-4 Depending on desired properties of end product (from 12% TO 20%
12% to 20% extension). Maximum residual extension: 3%

Depending on desired properties of end product (from 21% to 40%

extension). Maximum residual extension: 5%

All filament yarns :

Snagging Test (Internal Method with ICI Pilling Box Apparatus): grade 4

Flammability : conforming 1610 CFR

after 5000 revs : after 30 min: Bursting Strength (Perforation) ASTM D3787 = 300 N
after 1st wash: 4-5 class 4
Width: -4% / +2%
100% VISCOSE Bursting Strength (Hydraulic Method) ISO 13938-1
Width: -5% / +2% length: -4% / +2%
AND after 10000 revs: = 150 kPa
length: -5% / +2% after 3rd wash:
VISCOSE BLENDS 3-4
Width: -5% / +2%
length: -5% / +2% All elastic fabrics:
after 18000 revs: Stretch properties (ASTM D3107)
3 Depending on desired properties of end product (from 12% TO 20%
12% to 20% extension). Maximum residual extension: 3%

Depending on desired properties of end product (from 21% to 40%

extension). Maximum residual extension: 5%

All filament yarns :

Snagging Test (Internal Method with ICI Pilling Box Apparatus): grade 4

For velour fabric:

Accelerotor abrasion (AATCC 93)
Maximum weight loss: 15%

Flammability : conforming 1610 CFR

 Dimensional stability to washing Determination of pilling resistance Specific
CATEGORY Additional
ISO 6330 AATCC 135 ISO 12945-1 ASTM D3512 Requirements

after 5000 revs : after 30 min: Bursting Strength (Perforation) ASTM D3787 = 300 N
after 1st wash: 4-5 class 4
Width: -5% / +2%
100% WOOL Bursting Strength (Hydraulic Method) ISO 13938-1
Width: -6% / +2% length: -5% / +2%
AND after 10000 revs: = 150 kPa
length: -6% / +2% after 3rd wash:
WOOL BLENDS 3-4
Width: -6% / +2%
length: -6% / +2% All elastic fabrics:
after 18000 revs: Stretch properties (ASTM D3107)
3 Depending on desired properties of end product (from 12% TO 20%
12% to 20% extension). Maximum residual extension: 3%

Depending on desired properties of end product (from 21% to 40%

extension). Maximum residual extension: 5%

All filament yarns :

Snagging Test (Internal Method with ICI Pilling Box Apparatus): grade 4

For velour fabric:

Accelerotor abrasion (AATCC 93)
Maximum weight loss: 15%

Flammability : conforming 1610 CFR

 QUALITY MINIMUM REQUIREMENTS
WOVEN FABRICS AND GARMENTS

Dimensional
Tensile Strength Resistance to Resistance to Resistance to
stability to Tear Strength Crease recovery Specific
(grab method) Slippage abrasion pilling
CATEGORY washing Additional
Requirements
ISO AATCC ISO ASTM BS ASTM ISO ASTM ISO ASTM ISO ASTM DIN AATCC
6330 135 13934-2 D5034 3320 D434 13937-1 D1424 12947-2 D4966 12945-2 D4970 53891 66

after 1st All elastic fabrics:

Cellulosic and Cellulosi
wash: Stretch properties (ASTM D3107)
wool: 16 daN c
+/- 2% Cellulosi Depending on desired properties of end product (from 12% TO 20%
LADIES BLOUSES, 12% to 20% extension). Maximum residual extension: 3%
+/- 3% c
DRESSES, SKIRTS 8 daN 6N 10.000 revs 3-4 4 dry: 110 Depending on desired properties of end product (from 21% to 40%
after 3rd 110
extension). Maximum residual extension: 5%
Synthetic blends:
wash : wet: 100
20 daN
+/- 3 All filament yarns :
Snagging Test (Internal Method with ICI Pilling Box Apparatus): grade 4

Flammability : conforming 1610 CFR

after 1st All elastic fabrics:

Cellulosic and Cellulosi
wash: Stretch properties (ASTM D3107)
wool: 18 daN c
+/- 2% Cellulosi Depending on desired properties of end product (from 12% TO 20%
12% to 20% extension). Maximum residual extension: 3%
MEN'S SHIRT +/- 3% c
8 daN 7N 10.000 revs 3-4 4 dry: 110 Depending on desired properties of end product (from 21% to 40%
after 3rd 110
extension). Maximum residual extension: 5%
Synthetic blends:
wash : wet: 100
20 daN
+/- 3 All filament yarns :
Snagging Test (Internal Method with ICI Pilling Box Apparatus): grade 4

Flammability : conforming 1610 CFR

after 1st All elastic fabrics:

Cellulosic and
wash: Stretch properties (ASTM D3107)
wool: 25 daN
+/- 2% Depending on desired properties of end product (from 12% TO 20%
TROUSERS, JEANS 12% to 20% extension). Maximum residual extension: 3%
+/- 3%
AND JACKETS 12 daN 10 N 20.000 revs 4 4-5 not applicable Depending on desired properties of end product (from 21% to 40%
after 3rd extension). Maximum residual extension: 5%
Synthetic blends:
wash :
32 daN
+/- 3 All filament yarns :
Snagging Test (Internal Method with ICI Pilling Box Apparatus): grade 4

Flammability : conforming 1610 CFR

 Dimensional
Tensile Strength Resistance to Resistance to Resistance to
stability to Tear Strength Crease recovery Specific
(grab method) Slippage abrasion pilling
CATEGORY washing Additional
Requirements
ISO AATCC ISO ASTM BS ASTM ISO ASTM ISO ASTM ISO ASTM DIN AATCC
6330 135 13934-2 D5034 3320 D434 13937-1 D1424 12947-2 D4966 12945-2 D4970 53891 66

after 1st If water-repellent :

Cellulosic and
wash: Spray Test: (ISO 4920, AATCC 22) :
wool: 25 daN
+/- 2% original = ISO 4, AATCC 90
COATS, ANORAKS washed = ISO 3, AATCC 70
+/- 3%
AND RAIN WEAR 12 daN 10 N not applicable 3-4 4 not applicable
after 3rd Rain Test (AATCC 34) :
Synthetic blends:
wash : 2ft (600 mm) = 30 s (shower)
32 daN
+/- 3 2ft (600 mm) = 3 min (rain)
3ft (915 mm) = 5 min (storm)

If waterproof :
Determination of resistance to water penetration,
hydrostatic pressure test (ISO 811, AATCC 127):
original = 6 m
washed = 4 m

For articles with down and feather fillings :

Turbidity: more than 300
Oxygen Number : less than 20

Fat & Oil content : 2% or less

Downproofness Test : UNI/EN 12132 / 1 nr. Feathers and down come out
less than 20

All filament yarns :

Snagging Test (Internal Method with ICI Pilling Box Apparatus): grade 4

Flammability : conforming 1610 CFR

after 1st
wash:
+/- 2% All filament yarns :
16 daN 6 daN 7N not applicable 3-4 4 not applicable Snagging Test (Internal Method with ICI Pilling Box Apparatus): grade 4
LINING +/- 3%
after 3rd
wash : Flammability : conforming 1610 CFR
+/- 3
 Dimensional
Tensile Strength Resistance to Resistance to Resistance to
stability to Tear Strength Crease recovery Specific
(grab method) Slippage abrasion pilling
CATEGORY washing Additional
Requirements
ISO AATCC ISO ASTM BS ASTM ISO ASTM ISO ASTM ISO ASTM DIN AATCC
6330 135 13934-2 D5034 3320 D434 13937-1 D1424 12947-2 D4966 12945-2 D4970 53891 66
after 1st
wash:
+/- 3% All filament yarns :
25 daN not applicable 10 N not applicable 3-4 4 not applicable Snagging Test (Internal Method with ICI Pilling Box Apparatus): grade 4
TOWELLING +/- 5%
after 3rd
wash : Flammability : conforming 1610 CFR
+/- 5

after 1st All elastic fabrics:

wash: Stretch properties (ASTM D3107)
+/- 2% Depending on desired properties of end product (from 12% TO 20%
BEACHWEAR AND 12% to 20% extension). Maximum residual extension: 3%
+/- 3%
SWIMWEAR 16 daN 10 daN 7N 10.000 revs 3-4 4 not applicable Depending on desired properties of end product (from 21% to 40%
after 3rd extension). Maximum residual extension: 5%
wash :
+/- 3 All filament yarns :
Snagging Test (Internal Method with ICI Pilling Box Apparatus): grade 4

Flammability : conforming 1610 CFR

after 1st Flammability:

wash: USA = Conforming to 1610 CFR
+/- 2% UK = Conforming to Nightwear (Safety) 1985 Regulation
NIGHTWEAR
+/- 3%
AND UNDERWEAR 16 daN 8 daN 7N not applicable 4 4-5 not applicable All elastic fabrics:
after 3rd Stretch properties (ASTM D3107)
wash : Depending on desired properties of end product (from 12% TO 20%
+/- 3 12% to 20% extension). Maximum residual extension: 3%
Depending on desired properties of end product (from 21% to 40%
extension). Maximum residual extension: 5%

All filament yarns :

Snagging Test (Internal Method with ICI Pilling Box Apparatus): grade 4
 Apparel Materials
Test Procedures & Requirements Manual

Prepared By : Patrick Ong

Dated : 16 July2007
Test Procedures & Requirements
Apparel & Accessories

Quality Manual - Apparel

Chapter 1

1.01 Health and Environmental Tests / Requirements / Certificate

Chapter 2

2.05 Chart for mandatory tests for knits

2.06 Chart for mandatory tests for wovens

Chapter 3

3.01 Visual judgment of fabrics

3.03 Color shade approval by spectrophotometer (knits and wovens)
3.05 Visual viewing procedure

Chapter 4 (physical tests)

4.01 Flammability CFR part 1610 / class 1

4.02 Dimensional changes in home laundry DIN 53892
4.03 Dimensional changes in home laundry AATCC 135
4.04 Skewness in fabric and garment twist AATCC 179
4.05 Heat shrinkage
4.07 Pilling ASTM D 3512
4.08 Snagging (ICI pilling box)
4.09 Bursting strength DIN EN 13938-2
4.10 Tearing strength (stripe method for rugby only) DIN EN ISO 13934 -1
4.11 Tearing strength (Grab method) DIN EN ISO 13934 - 2
4.12 Elongation of fabrics
4.13 Seam slippage BS 3320
4.14 Tear growth resistance DIN EN 13937-2
4.15 Tearing strength for button holes (rugby only)
4.16 Abrasion resistance DIN 53863 / ISO R 36
4.17 Padding test methods
4.18 Padding requirements
4.19 Determination of fabric-weight g/m²
4.20 Elongation / Elastic Force
4.21 Cuttable Width
4.23 Thread count / density (ASTM D3775 / ASTM D 3887-12)
4.25 Approval procedure for transfer prints
4.27 Elongation of elastic fabrics c-clamp

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 1 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

Test Procedures & Requirements
Apparel & Accessories

Quality Manual - Apparel

Chapter 5 (color fastness)

5.01 Color fastness to washing (ISO 105-C06)

5.02 Colorfastness to perspiration ISO 105-E04
5.03 Colorfastness to water ISO 105 - E01
5.04 Colorfastness to crocking ISO 105 x 12
5.06 Colorfastness to chlorinated water ISO 105-E03
5.08 Colorfastness to sea-water
5.09 Colorfastness to dry heating ( migration) JIS L 0879
5.10 Phenolic yellowing test (Courtauld)
5.11 Colorfastness to light (ISO 105-B02 / 2)
5.12 Colorfastness to Drycleaning (ISO 105-D01 / AATCC 132)
5.13 Chlorine resistance

Chapter 6 (functional tests)

6.01 Water repellency - spray test AATCC 22

6.02 Water resistance DIN EN 20811 / AATCC 127
6.03 Rain test AATCC 35
6.04 Water absorbency of fabrics
6.06 Water vapour permeability JIS | 1099- A1 cup up
6.07 Determination of drying time
6.08 Air permeability of fabrics ISI EN 9237 (110Pa)

Chapter 7 (garment test)

7.01 Appearance and shrinkage after machine washing

7.02 Appearance and shrinkage after hand washing

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 2 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

Apparel & Accessories
Health & Environment Requirements

CERTIFICATE OF COMPLIANCE
with
Fila ‘Health & Environment Requirements’
for
Apparel & Accessories

We hereby acknowledge receipt of the Fila ‘Health & Environment Requirements’

– as far as out products are concerned – and certify that the products shipped to
Fila or Fila trading partners will be in compliance with the standards listed in the
respective ‘Fila Health & Environment Requirements’.
We agree to be held liable for all costs incurred should hazardous substances be
found in any of our materials, component or products supplied by

____________________________ __________________
(supplier name) (country)

for Fila with immediate effect. We confirm that we have been specifically
informed by Fila Sport Hong Kong Ltd.,about the content of the relevant
requirements and intend to comply with all of them.

Acknowledged and agreed:

Signature: ____________________________________________

Name: ____________________________________________
PLEASE PRINT
Title: ____________________________________________

Company: ____________________________________________

Address: ____________________________________________

Date: _____________________________________________

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 1 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

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Description of content of the individual columns of the tables

Substance: Defines the chemical compound, which is prohibited or to be limited.

Threshold Limit Value (TLV): Indicates the permitted limit value; a measured amount which is below this limit value means
that the tested material is to be accepted.
The requirement "not detectable" means, that no signal has been found during the analysis
based on the prescripted testing method.
Use for: The "X" defines the scope of validity of the requirements.

Test Method: The testing method strongly influences the testing result; test results which occur due to
deviated pre-treatment and/or testing methods can not be interpreted in accordance with the
Fila health & environment requirements for apparel & accessories.
Material groups: The "X" describes the group of materials for which the TLVs are mandatory and compliance
with the relevant requirements must be confirmed.
Pre-treatment/Test method: Describes the necessary pre-treatment of the material sample; as different pre-treatments
can cause different test results, the prescripted pre-treatment methods must be followed
strictly.

Prohibition of PVC (polyvinylchloride) – materials

Following the corporate direction and policy, PVC-containing materials must not be used for apparel products.
Any exceptions of this policy need to be approved first by FILA.

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Heavy Metals
Substance Threshold Limit Detection Limit Use For Material Group Test Method
Value (TLV) (DIN-method or oficially accepted ISO/ATM-
Method)
able Total extract- total Babies Adults Adults
able <24 with skin without
months contact skin 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
contact
arsenic 1 ppm 0,01 ppm X X X X X X Pre-Treatment: DIN EN ISO 105-e04 (DIN 54020)
1)
……………… in acid solution
Measurement: DIN EN ISO 11969 (DIN 38405 D 18)
0,2 ppm 0,01 ppm X X X X X Pre-Treatment: DIN EN ISO 105-e04 (DIN 54020)
1)
……………… in acid solution
Measurement: DIN EN ISO 11969 (DIN 38405 D 18)
antimony 5 ppm 0,01 ppm X X X X X Pre-Treatment: DIN EN ISO 105-e04 (DIN 54020)
……………… in acid solution 1)
Measurement: DIN EN ISO 11969 (DIN 38405 D 32)
10 ppm 0,01 ppm X X X X X X Pre-Treatment: DIN EN ISO 105-e04 (DIN 54020)
……………… in acid solution 1)
Measurement: DIN EN ISO 11969 (DIN 38405 D 32)
cadmium 0,1 ppm 0,02 ppm X X X X X X X X X X X X Pre-Treatment: DIN EN ISO 105-e04 (DIN 54020)
……………… in acid solution 1)
Measurement: DIN EN ISO 11969 (DIN 38406 D 19)
0,1 ppm 0,02 ppm X X X X X X X X X X Pre-Treatment: DIN EN ISO 105-e04 (DIN 54020)
……………… in acid solution 1)
Measurement: DIN EN ISO 11969 (DIN 38406 D 19)
50 ppm2) 5 ppm X X X X X X X X X X X X X Pre-Treatment: Total Extraction e.g. ENV 1122
Measurement: DIN EN ISO 11969 (DIN 38406 E 19)
chrome total 2 ppm 0,5 ppm X X X X X X X X X X Pre-Treatment: DIN EN ISO 105-e04 (DIN 54020)
……………… in acid solution 1)
Measurement: ISO 1233 (DIN 38406 D 10)
1 ppm 0,5 ppm X X X X X X X X X Pre-Treatment: DIN EN ISO 105-e04 (DIN 54020)
……………… in acid solution 1)
Measurement: ISO 1233 (DIN 38406 D 10)
chrome VI Non de- 3 ppm X X X X X X X X X X X X Pre-Treatment: Leather: as described in DIN 53314
tectable ……………… synthetics/nat. material: DIN 54020
Measurement: in alcaline solution
DIN 53314 or DIN 38405 D 24
1) extraction time: 1 hour / extraction temperature: 370 degree Celsius
2) not suitable for polyflourinated plastic material

* Key for Material Groups

1 Leather 6 Synthetic Fibers
2 Polymers 7 Polyester Fibers
3 Rubber 8 Polyamide
4 Natural Fibers 9 Blown Material
5 Mixed Fibers (natural and synthetic) 10 Metal Parts

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Heavy Metals
Substance Threshold Limit Detection Limit Use For Material Group Test Method
Value (TLV) (DIN-method or oficially accepted ISO/ATM-
Method)
extract-able total extract-able Total Babies Adults Adults
<24 with skin without
months contact skin 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
contact
lead 0,2 ppm Depends on X X X X X X X X X X X Pre-Treatment: DIN EN ISO 105-e04 (DIN 54020)
conditions ……………… in acid solution 1)
Measurement: (if needed increase of sample weight)
DIN 38406 E 6
1 ppm 0,5 ppm X X X X X X X X X X X Pre-Treatment: DIN EN ISO 105-e04 (DIN 54020)
……………… in acid solution 1)
Measurement: DIN 38406 E 6

1 ppm 0,5 ppm X X X X X X X X X X X Pre-Treatment: DIN EN ISO 105-e04 (DIN 54020)

……………… in acid solution 1)
Measurement: DIN 38406 E 6

mercury 0,02 ppm 0,02 ppm X X X X X X X X X X X X Pre-Treatment: DIN EN ISO 105-e04 (DIN 54020)
……………… in acid solution 1)
Measurement: DIN EN 1483 (DIN 38406 E 12)

copper 50 ppm 0,5 ppm X X X X X X X X X X X Pre-Treatment: DIN EN ISO 105-e04 (DIN 54020)
……………… in acid solution 1)
Measurement: DIN 38406 E 7

25 ppm 0,5 ppm X X X X X X X X X X Pre-Treatment: DIN EN ISO 105-e04 (DIN 54020)

……………… in acid solution 1)
Measurement: DIN 38406 E 7
nickel 4 ppm 0,5 ppm X X X X X X X X X X X Pre-Treatment: DIN EN ISO 105-e04 (DIN 54020)
Measurement: in acid solution 1)
DIN 38406 E 11

1 ppm 0,5 ppm X X X X X X X X X X Pre-Treatment: DIN EN ISO 105-e04 (DIN 54020)

……………… in acid solution 1)
Measurement: DIN 38406 E 11
0,5 µg/ 0,5 µg/ X X X DIN EN 12472 and DIN EN 1811
cm2/week cm2/week

Cobalt 4 ppm 0,5 ppm X X X X X X X X X X X Pre-Treatment: DIN EN ISO 105-e04 (DIN 54020)
……………… in acid solution 1)
Measurement: DIN 38406 E 24
1 ppm 0,5 ppm X X X X X X X X X X Pre-Treatment: DIN EN ISO 105-e04 (DIN 54020)
……………… in acid solution 1)
Measurement: DIN 38406 E 24
1) extraction time: 1 hour / extraction temperature: 370 degree Celsius

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Substance Threshold Limit Detection Limit Use For Material Group Test Method
Value (TLV) (DIN-method or oficially accepted ISO/ATM-Method)

extract- total extract- total Babies Adults Adults

able able <24 months with skin without
contact skin 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
contact

pentachloro- 0,5 ppm 0,1 ppm X X X X LGA –Method

phenole PCP

0,05 ppm Depends on X X X LGA -Method

conditions (if needed increase of sample weight)

0,5 ppm 0,1 ppm X X X X LGA-Method

o-phenyl- 1,0 ppm Depends on X X X X X Pre-Treatment: Extraction with KOH

phenole o-PP conditions Measurement: with GC\MS
0,5 ppm Depends on X X X X Pre-Treatment: Extraction with KOH
conditions Measurement: with GC\MS
Σ tri- and 1,0 ppm 0,2 (tri) X X X X X LGA-Method
tetrachloro- 0,1 (tetra)
phenoles
0,5 ppm 0,2 (tri) X X X X LGA-Method
0,1 (tetra)
pesticides 1,0 ppm 0,5 ppm X X X X X X textiles have to be checked for pesticides"annex 1
leather has to be checked for pesticides in annex 2
azo-dyestuffs 30 ppm 30 ppm X X X X X X X X X X X X for natural fibers, polyacetate, polyamide
polyacrylnitrile and pigment prints: 35 LMBG 82.02-2
for leather: 35 LMBG 82.02-3
for polyesters: 35 LMBG 82.02-4
for mixed fibers the concerning single methods have to be used
list of non-allowed amines see annex 3
white materials don't have to be checked

Ozone depleting Not X X X X GC-MS

substances detect-
able

formalde- hyde 13 ppm** X** X X X X X Japan Law 112

result to indicate as A-Ao < 0.05
** 20 ppm if > 24 months
75 ppm X X X** X X X X X Japan Law 112
** leather not more than 150 ppm

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Substance Threshold Limit Detection Limit Use For Material Group Test Method
Value (TLV) (DIN-method or oficially accepted ISO/ATM-
Method)

extract- total extract- total Babies Adults Adults

able able <24 with skin without
months contact skin 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
contact

polychlorina- ted Not 0,1 ppm X X X X X X X X DIN 38407 F2

biphe- nyls PCB detectable
GefStoffV
dispered dyes Not Depends on X X X X X X X X dyes of list annex 5 a
detectable dye HPLC \ DAD
Not Depends on X X X X X X X X dyes of list annex 5 b
detectable dye HPLC \ DAD
Cancerogenic Not Depends on X X X X X X X X X dyes of list annex 5 c
dyes detectable dye HPLC \ DAD
chloroorganic 1 ppm 0,1 ppm X X X X X X X X list see annex 6
carriers GS-MS )
Tributyltin TBT Not 0,05 ppm X X X X X X X X X X X X DIN 38407 -13
detectable pre-treatment Sodiumdiethyldithiocarbamat / Ethanol
Dibutyltin DBT 0,5 ppm 0,05 ppm X X X X X X X X X X X X DIN 38407 -13
pre-treatment Sodiumdiethyldithiocarbamat / Ethanol
Monobutyltin 0,5 ppm 0,05 ppm X X X X X X X X X X X X DIN 38407 -13
MBT pre-treatment Sodiumdiethyldithiocarbamat / Ethanol
Phtalates 500 ppm X X X X acc. To annex 7
Flame Retardents n.d. X X X X X X X X X X X X acc. To Annex 8

Annex 1 Pesticides (relevant for textiles)

DDT, DDD, DDE, HCH’s without Lindan; Lindan, Hexachlorobenzene, Carbaryl, Trifluralin, Methoxychlor, Aldrin, Dieldrin,
Endrin, Endosulfanes, Mirex, Toxaphene, Heptachloroepoxide, 2, 4-D, 2, 4, 5-T, PCP, TCP

Annex 2 Pesticides (relevant for leather)

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DDT, DDD, DDE, HCH’s without Lindan; Malathione, Methoxychlor, Aldrin, Dieldrin, Ethylparathione, Endosulfanes,
Mirex, Dichlofluanide, Heptachloroepoxide, Pentachloroanisole, Permethrine, Tolyfluanide, Chlorthalonil, PCP, TetraCP,
TriCP

Annex 3 List of non allowed aromatic amines developed by azo-dyestuffs

Compound CAS- number Compound CAS-number

4-aminobiphenyl 92-67-1 3,3'-dimethyl-4,4'-diaminodiphenylmethane 838-88-0
benzidine 92-87-5 p-cresidine 120-71-8
4-chlor-o-toluidine 95-69-2 4-4'-methylen-bis(2-chloraniline) 101-14-4
2-naphthylamine 91-59-8 4-4'-oxydianiline 101-80-4
o-aminoazotoluene 97-56-3 4.4'-thiodianiline 139-65-1
2-amino-4-nitrotoluene 99-55-8 o-toluidine 95-53-4
p-chloroaniline 106-47-8 2,4-toluylendiamine 95-80-7
2,4-diaminoanisole 615-05-4 2,4,5-trimethylaniline 137-17-7
4,4'-diaminodiphenylmethane 101-77-9 2,4-dimethylaniline 95-68-1
3,3'-dichlorbenzidine 91-94-1 2,6-dimethylaniline 87-62-7
3,3'-dimethoxybenzidine 119-90-4 2-methoxyaniline 90-04-0
3,3'-dimethylbenzidine 119-93-7

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Annex 4 List of ozone depleting substances class 1

Name of compound Formula CAS-number

Trichlorofluoromethane CFC-11 CFCl3 75-69-4
Dichlorodifluoromethane CFC-12 CF2Cl2 75-71-8
1,1,1-trichlorotrifluoroethane CFC-113 C2F3Cl3 354-58-5
1,1,2-trichlorotrifluoroethane CFC-113 C2F3Cl3 76-13-1
Dichlorotetrafluoroethane CFC-114 C2F4Cl2 76-14-2
Monochloropentafluoroethane CFC-115 C2F5Cl 76-15-3
Bromochlorodifluoromethane Halon-1211 CF2ClBr 353-59-3
Bromotrifluoromethane Halon-1301 CF3Br 75-63-8
Dibromotetrafluoroethane Halon-2402 C2F4Br 124-73-2
Chlorotrifluoromethane CFC-13 CF3Cl 75-72-9
Pentachlorofluoroethane CFC-111 C2FCl5 354-56-3
Tetrachlorodifluoroethane CFC-112 C2F2Cl4 76-12-0
Heptachlorofluoropropane CFC-211 C3FCl7 422-78-6
Hexachlorodifluoropropane CFC-212 C3F2Cl6 3182-26-1
Pentachlorodifluoropropane CFC-213 C3F3Cl5 2354-06-5
Tetrachlorotetrafluoropropane CFC-214 C3F4Cl4 29255-31-0
Trichloropentafluoropropane CFC-215 C3F5Cl3 1599-41-3
Dichlorohexafluoropropane CFC-216 C3F6Cl2 661-97-2
Monochloroheptafluoropropane CFC-217 C3F7Cl 422-86-6
Carbon tetrachloride CC14 CCl4 56-23-5
1,1,1 trichloroethane Methyl Chloroform C2H3Cl3 71-55-6
Methyl bromide CH3Br 74-83-9
Dibromofluoromethane CHFBr2
Bromodifluoromethane CHF2Br
Bromofluoromethane CH2FBr

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List of ozone depleting substances class 1

Name of compound Formula CAS-number

Tetrabromofluoroethane C2HFBr4
Tribromodifouoroethane C2HF2Br3
Dibromotrifluoroethane C2HF3Br2
Bromotetrafluoroethane C2HF4Br
Tribromofluoroethane C2H2FBr3
Dibromodifluoroethane C2H2F2Br2
Bromotrifluoroethane C2H2F3Br
Dibromofluoroethane C2H3FBr2
Bromodifluoroethane C2H3F2Br
Dibromoethane C2H4Br2
Hexabromofluoropropane C3HFBr6
Pentabromodifluoropropane C3HF2Br5
Tetrabromotrifluoropropane C3HF3Br4
Tribromotetrafluoropropane C3HF4Br3
Dibromopentafluoropropane C3HF5Br2
Bromohexafluoropropane C3HF6Br
Pentabromofluoropropane C3H2FBr5
Tetrabromotrifluoropropane C3H2F3Br4
Tribromotrifluoropropane C3H2F3Br3
Dibromotetrafluoropropane C3H2F4Br2
Bromopentafluoropropane C3H2F5Br
Tetrabromofluoropropane C3H3FBr4
Tribromodifluoropropane C3H3F2Br3
Dibromotrifluoropropane C3H3F3Br2
Bromotetrafluoropropane C3H3F4Br
Tribromofluoropropane C3H4FBr3

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List of ozone depleting substances class 1

Name of compound Formula CAS-number

Dibromodifluoropropane C3H4F2Br2
Bromotrifluoropropane C3H4F3Br
Dibromofluoropropane C3H5FBr2
Bromodifluoropropane C3H5F2Br
Bromofluoropropane C3H6FBr
Dichlorofluoromethane HCFC-21 CHFCl2
Monochlorodifluoromethane HCFC-22 CHF2Cl 75-45-6
Monochlorofluoromethane HCFC-31 CH2FCl
Tetrachlorofluoroethane HCFC-121 C2HFCl4
Trichlorofluoroethane HCFC-122 C2HF2Cl3
2,2dichloro-1,1,-trifluoroethane HCFC-123 C2HF3Cl2 306-83-2
2-chloro-1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane HCFC-124 C2HF4Cl 2837-89-0
Trichlorofluoroethane HCFC-131 C2H2FCl3
Dichlorodifluoroethane HCFC-132B C2H2F2Cl2
Monochlorotrifluoroethane HCFC-133A C2H2F3Cl
1,1-dichloro-1-fluoroethane HCFC-141B C2H3FCl2 1717-00-6
1-chloro-1,1-difluoroethane HCFC-142B C2H3F2Cl 75-68-3
Hexachlorofluoropropane HCFC-221 C3HFCl6
Pentachlorodifluoropropane HCFC-222 C3HF2Cl5
Tetrachlorotrifluoropropane HCFC-223 C3HF3Cl4
Trichlorotetrafluoropropane HCFC-224 C3HF4Cl3
Dichloropentafluoropropane HCFC-225CA C3HF5Cl2
Dichloropentafluoropropane HCFC-225CB C3H1F5Cl2
Monochlorohexafluoropropane HCFC-226 C3HF6Cl

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List of ozone depleting substances class 2

Name of compound Formula CAS-number

Dichlorofluoromethane HCFC-21 CHFCI2
Monochlorodifluoromethane HCFC-22 CHF2CI 75-45-6
Monochlorofluoromethane HCFC-31 CH2FCI
Tetrachlorofluoroethane HCFC-121 C2HFCI4
Trichlorodifluoroethane HCFC-122 C2HF2CI3
Dichlorotrifluoroethane HCFC-123 C2HF3CI2 306-83-2
Monochlorotetrafluoroethane HCFC-124 C2HF4CI 2837-89-0
Trichlorofluoroethane HCFC-131 C2H2F1CI3
Dichlorodifluoroethane HCFC-132B C2H2F2CI2
Monochlorotrifluoroethane HCFC-133A C2H2F3CI
Dichlorofluoroethane HCFC-141B C2H3FCI2 1717-00-6
Monochlorodifluoroethane HCFC-142B C2H3F2CI1 75-68-3
Hexachlorofluoropropane HCFC-221 C3H1F1CI6
Pentachlorodifluoropropane HCFC-222 C3H1F2CI5
Tetrachlorotrifluoropropane HCFC-223 C3H1F3CI4
Trichlorotetrafluoropropane HCFC-224 C3H1F4CI3
Dichloropentafluoropropane HCFC-225CA C3H1F5CI2
Dichloropentafluoropropane HCFC-225CB C3H1F5CI2
Monochlorohexfluoropropane HCFC-226 C3H1F6CI1

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List of ozone depleting substances class 2

Name of compound Formula CAS-number

Pentachlorofluoropropane HCFC-231 C3H2F1CI5
Tetrachlorodifluoropropane HCFC-232 C3H2F2CI4
Trichlorotrifluoropropane HCFC-233 C3H2F3CI3
Dichlorotetrafluoropropane HCFC-234 C3H2F4CI2
Monochloropentafluoropropane HCFC-235 C3H2F5CI
Dichlorotrifluoroethane HCFC-123 C2HF3CI2
Tetrachlorofluoropropane HCFC-241 C3H3F1CI4
Trichlorodifluoropropane HCFC-242 C3H3F2CI3
Dichlorotrifluoropropane HCFC-243 C3H3F3CI2
Monochlorotetrafluoropropane HCFC-244 C3H3F4CI
Trichlorofluoropropane HCFC-251 C3H4FCI3
Dichlorodifluoropropane HCFC-252 C3H4F2CI2
Monochlorodifluoropropane HCFC-253 C3H4F3CI
Dichlorofluoropropane HCFC-261 C3H5FCI2
Monochlorodifluoropropane HCFC-262 C3H5F2CI
Monochlorofluoropropane HCFC-271 C3H6FCI

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Annex 5a List of prohibited disperse dyes

Name of dye Abbreviation CAS- C.I. (color index)

number
disperse blue 1 DB 1 2475-45-8 64500
disperse blue 35 DB 35 12222-75-2
disperse blue 106 DB 106 12223-0-1-7
disperse blue 124 DB 124 61951-51-7
disperse yellow 3 DG 3 2832-40-8 11855
disperse orange 3 DO 3 730-40-5 11005
disperse orange 37/ 59 / 76 * DO 37 12223-33-5
disperse red 1 DR 1 2872-52-8 11110

Annex 5b List of prohibited disperse dyes

Name of dye Abbreviation CAS- C.I.(color index)
number
disperse blue 3 DB 3
disperse blue 7 DB 7
disperse blue 26 DB 26
disperse blue 102 DB 102
disperse yellow 1 DG 1
disperse yellow 9 DG 9
disperse yellow 39 DG 39
disperse yellow 49 DG 49
disperse orange 1 DO 1
disperse orange 30 DO 30
disperse red 11 DR 11
disperse red 17 DR 17
disperse red 82 DR 82

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Annex 5c: List of cancerogenic dyes

Generic name of dye CAS- Colour

number index
C.I. Acid Red 26 3761-53-3 C.I. 16150
C.I. Basic Red 9 25620-78-4 C.I. 42500

Annex 6: List of prohibited chloro-organic carriers

- Dichlorbenzenes
- Trichlorbenzenes
- Tetrachlorbenzenes
- Pentachlorbenzenes
- Hexachlorbenzenes
- Chlortoluenes
- Dichlortoluenes
- Trichlortoluenes
- Tetrachlortoluenes
- Pentachlortoluenes

Annex 7: List of prohibited phtalates

- Di-Iso-Nonylphtalate (DINP)
- Di-n-Octylphtalate (DNOP)
- Di(2-Ethylhexyl)-Phtalate (DEHP)
- Diisodecylphtalate (DIDP)
- Butylbenzyphtalate (BBP)
- Dibutylphtalate (DBP)

Annex 8: List of prohibited flame retardents

- Brominated or chlorinated flame retardents
- TEPA (Tris-(azirinidyl)-phosphinoxid)

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Chapter 2

2.05 chart for mandatory tests for knits

2.06 chart for mandatory tests for wovens

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3.01 Visual Inspection of Materials
Quality Manual - Apparel

The ready made garment must comply with Fila required and approved fabric quality
concerning:

♦ colourshade
♦ appearance
♦ fiber composition
♦ handfeel

Not acceptable:

♦ defects in evenness of fabric

♦ uneven dyeing
♦ color shading
♦ knitting or weaving faults
♦ holes
♦ undrafted parts
♦ soiling, oil spots
♦ dropped stitches
♦ distortion
♦ prints have to be durably fixed and soft in handfeel, the elasticity of prints
must match to the elasticity of the fabric

Not acceptable strong smells such as:

♦ silver petrol
♦ fish
♦ carrier
♦ and other undefined bad smells

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3.03 Color-Shade Approval by Spectrophotometer
for Knit and woven Fabric
Quality Manual - Apparel
Purpose: To produce a product within the limits of acceptable variations of a specified color
(specified color: Fila color standard)

Apparatus: Spectrophotometer compatible with the Spectraflash SF 600 plus CT, used by Fila as
standard

Instrument settings: UV included (100% UV)

specular included
%R LAV SCI
LAV- Large Area View only
Must be set with 35 points

Calibration: The apparatus must be calibrated before starting the measurement

Conditioning: Before measurement, all fabrics must be conditioned at least for 30 min in an
atmosphere of 65% +/- 2% humidity , 20°C +/-2°C and exposed to D 65 light.
Conditioning is mandatory for all natural fibers and their blends.
The measurements must be taken within 5 minutes after removal from the conditioning room.

Sampling. The sample must be folded in sufficient numbers of layers (minimum 4 layers) to
prevent light transmission.
Light transmissions can be checked by measuring the fabric with the black tile and than with the
white tile behind the sample. The readings should be the same. If not, the numbers of layers
must be increased and the measurements repeated.
The sample must be smooth, and without any creases or tension, and always placed in the same
direction.The measurements must be taken in length direction using the commercial face.

Expression of the calculated color difference with the values:

delta E : total color difference

delta L : lightness difference
delta C : saturation difference (brilliance)
delta H : hue angle difference

The Fila tolerances calculated by CMC 2:1

Tolerances for lab dip approval against the Fila color standard
delta E < 0,6 delta L < 0,6 delta C < 0,3 delta H < 0,3

Tolerances for bulk fabric and re-order approval against the fila color standard
delta E < 0,8 delta L < 0,8 delta C < 0,5 delta H < 0,5

Please note all approvals have to be done in the same direction. Example:
If the lab dip has been approved in e.g. delta a ‘ +’ area, than bulk must also be in delta a ‘ +’
area, or both in ‘ – ‘ area. Same on delta b, if the approval has been in ’+‘, than bulk also has to
be in ‘ + ‘ area or both in ‘–‘ area.

Final acceptance of the col. shade by visual review, using D 65, CWF and TL 84

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 16 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

3.05 Visual Viewing Procedure

Quality Manual - Apparel

All individuals who are responsible for reviewing and making color decisions must be
tested for color perception.
Note: Fila uses the Farnsworth-Munsel 100 Hue test to check for color perception

• A minimum lab dip swatch size of 3x3 inches is required.

• the light cabinet must be located in a room where no ambient light is visible; all lights must be
turned off and windows fitted with gray blinds for total darkness.

• The light cabinet should be:

- big enough to work comfortably,
- clean and empty of all items except lab dip and standard being evaluated.
- inside paint color must be neutral gray (Munsell N7)
- bulbs: TL 84, D 65, CWF and UV
note: it is essential to change the bulbs after 2000hrs in use

• Compare the sample under D 65 and use TL 84 / CWF for metamerism

• Final comments should be made under D 65

• The lab dip must be compared with the original Fila shade standard

• Color observation must be made flat, on the bottom surface of light cabinet, in the
lengthwise direction
- all samples should be compared in the same direction, this means each sample should
be compared lengthwise direction of standard to lengthwise direction of sample.
- turn the sample in different directions during viewing
- while viewing this in different directions, always keep both the dip and the standard in
the same direction (meaning wale to wale or warp to warp)
- if viewing a fabric with nap (such as velvet or corduroy) place with nap direction down.
• The lab dip should be compared in one layer as well as 4 layers folded

• For each sample, the spectrophotometer readings should be compared with the visual
conclusion

• All final decisions should be from visual conclusions

Note: When making a decision on the acceptability of a lab dip, the decision(s) from all other
lab dips for a specific color, e.g. new navy, as well as the specific style must be known and
taken into account.

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 17 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.01 Flammability CFR Part 1610 / Class 1
Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: to reduce danger of injury and to avoid the use of any dangerously
flammable clothing textiles
This test is valid for all fabrics of natural or regenerated cellulose or their blends with synthetics

Requirements: normal flammability class 1

This class shall include textiles, which meet the minimum requirements. The trade as having no
unusual burning characteristics generally accepts these requirements.

a) Textiles without nap, pile, tufting , flock or other type of raised- fiber surface.
Such textiles in their original state and after being dry-cleaned and washed as described in
§1610.4(d) and 4 (e), and tested as described in 1610.4 shall be classified as class 1, as normal
flammability, when the time of flame spread is 3½ seconds or more.

b) Napped, piled, tufted, flocked, or other textiles having a raised - fiber surface.
Such textiles in their original state and after being dry-cleaned and washed as described in §
1610.4 (d) and 1610.4 (e) and tested as described in 1610.4 shall be classified as class 1 normal
flammability, when the time of flame spread is more than 7 seconds or when they burn with a
rapid surface flash from 0 to 7 seconds, provided the intensity of the flame is so low as not to
ignite or fuse the base fabric.

To conduct the method, please follow the test description of § 1610.4 CFR
rd
All flammability testing should be conducted at a 3 party lab.
Flammability must be run on every 20,000 yards of bulk, with a favorable result.

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 18 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.02 Dimensional Changes in Home Laundry
DIN 53892 (line dry)
Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: Determination of dimensional changes in woven and knit fabrics after home laundering and line
drying

Test description:
a) Specimen preparation

• Condition the specimen for at least 4 hours ( 20°C± 2°C and 65% ± 2% RH) before marking and
again after the final tumble drying.
• Cut a piece (60cm x 60cm) out of the middle of the fabric.
• The specimen must be at least 10cm away from the selvage. Avoid creases and folds.
• Lay the fabric flat and remove wrinkles gently by hand without any tension or stretching the specimen.
• Mark three pairs of benchmarks, evenly spaced in the length and width direction, carefully follow grain
lines. See diagram below.
• Benchmarks can be made using either centimeters or inches. For centimeters make the marks 50cm
apart; for inches use an 18-inch benchmark
• There must be at least (minimum) 5cm or 2 inches from the benchmarks to the cut edge of the fabric.

b) Performing test
For International developed fabric orders, use the front loading machines.
For US developed fabric orders use top loading machines.
All line dry tests are preformed under wash/line dry 1 time

Diagram showing benchmarks

For Front Loading Machines

• Wash the specimen in a European washing machine or use a wascator being adjusted to a European
washing machine.
• Use the washing temperature and cycle as specified in the care label of the later garment or by the
fabric supplier.
• Add 50gm of standard domestic detergent (one which is most readily available within the region) for
pre-washing cycle and 50gm for main cycle .
• Add test specimens and enough ballast to make sure that at least 70% of the machine filling is
guaranteed.
• Remove the test wash load immediately after the final spin cycle and hang each specimen with the
fabric length in vertical direction.
• Allow the specimens to hang in still air at room temperature until dry.
• After conditioning the specimen, lay each of them without tension on a flat, horizontal surface.
Measure and record the distance between the benchmarks.
• Calculate dimensional change using formula below. Calculate the average warp and average weft
dimensional change.

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 20 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.02 Dimensional Changes in Home Laundry
DIN 53892 (line dry)
Quality Manual - Apparel
Top Loading Machines (USA) –

• Add sufficient detergent to wash

• Detergent - use a detergent most readily available within the region (example Tide, Cheer)
• Use specified water level (note: Wash Table), the selected water temperature for the washing cycle (
as specified in the care label or by the fabric supplier) and a rinse temperature of less than 29°C.
• Add 2gm of standard household detergent for every Liter of Water used in machine.
Example: If small load water level is 46 Liters then the amount of detergent used would be 92gms/per
load
• Add test specimens and enough ballast to make a 2.0kg ± 0,1kg load.
• Remove the test wash load immediately after the final spin cycle.
• Hang each specimen with the fabric length in vertical direction. Allow the specimens to hang in still air
at room temperature until dry.
• After conditioning the specimen lay each of them without tension on a flat, horizontal surface.
Measure and record the distance between the benchmarks.
• Calculate dimensional change using formula below. Calculate the average warp and average weft
dimensional change.

Wash table for top loading machines.

Wash
Method Agitation Setting Total Load Washing Rinsing Spin Cycle
Wash/Rinse Dry Load
Wash temp Liquor level Wash time Liquor level Spin Time

Wash Cold Normal cycle 2 kg 30 ± 3 °C 45 L 12 min. 45 L Normal cycle

Wash Warm Normal cycle 2kg 40 ± 3°C 45L 12 min. 45L Normal cycle

Evaluation:

Measurement before wash - Measurement after wash

---------------------------------------------------------------------------- X 100 = shrinkage (or growth) in %
Measurement before wash

If % is less than 100% = Shrinkage (note this with a “ - “ sign)

If % is more than 100% = Growth (note this with a “ + “ sign)

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 21 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.02 Dimensional Changes in Home Laundry
DIN 53892 (line dry)
Quality Manual - Apparel

Test Standards: Line Dry

Minimum requirements

KNITS WOVEN RIB RIB

All Knit Fabric All Woven Fabric (As Body Fabric) (As Body Fabric)
Construction Construction Without Elastane With Elastane

Fabric Properties Content Standard Standard Standard Standard

(Length & Width) (Length & Width) (Length & Width) (Length & Width)

100% Natural (+/- 5%) x (+/- 5%) (+/- 3%) x (+/- 3%) (+3/-5%) x (+0/-5%) (+0/-5%) x (+0/-5%)
100% Natural
Fibers max max max max

Blends
(Chief Value (+/- 5%) x (+/- 5%) (+/- 3%) x (+/- 3%) (+0/-5%) x (+0/-5%) (+0/-5%) x (+0/-5%)
> 50% Natural
Natural) max max max max

100% Synthetic
(+/- 3%) x (+/- 3%) (+/- 2%) x (+/- 2%) (+0%/-3%) x (+0/-3%) (+0/-3%) x (+0/-3%)
100% Synthetic
max max max max

Blends
(Chief Value (+/- 3%) x (+/- 3%) (+/- 2%) x (+/- 2%) (+0%/-3%) x (+0/-3%) (+0/-3%) x (+0/-3%)
> 50% Synthetic
Synthetic) max max max max

(+0/-8%) x (+0/-8%)
N/A
Ribs Used as Trim max N/A N/A

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 22 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.03 Dimensional Changes in Home Laundry
AATCC 135 -tumble dry
Quality Manual - Apparel
Purpose: Determination of dimensional changes in woven and knit fabrics after home laundering and
tumble drying (3 cycles). (USA orders)

Test description:

a) Specimen preparation

• Condition the specimen for at least 4 hours ( 20°C± 2°C and 65% ± 2% RH) before marking and
again after the final tumble drying.
• Cut a piece (60cm x 60cm) out of the middle of the fabric.
• The specimen must be at least 10cm away from the selvage. Avoid creases and folds.
• Lay the fabric flat and remove wrinkles gently by hand without any tension or stretching the specimen.
• Mark three pairs of benchmarks, evenly spaced in the length and width direction, carefully follow grain
lines. See diagram below.
• Benchmarks can be made using either centimeters or inches. For centimeters make the marks 50cm
apart; for inches use an 18-inch benchmark
• There must be at least (minimum) 5cm or 2 inches from the benchmarks to the cut edge of the fabric.

c) Performing test
For International developed fabric orders, use the front loading machines.
For US developed fabric orders use top loading machines.
All tumble dry tests are preformed under wash/tumble dry 3 times.

Diagram showing benchmarks

For Front Loading Machines

• Wash the specimen in a European washing machine or use a wascator being adjusted to a European
washing machine.
• Use the washing temperature and cycle as specified in the care label of the later garment or by the
fabric supplier. If that is not available, use a 40C and 70 minute cycle in a European domestic
washing machine. For the wascater, use a 5A program.
• Add 50g of standard domestic detergent (one which is most readily available within the region) for pre-
washing cycle (if prewash cycle is included in your machine/cycle choice) and 50g for main cycle
• Add test specimens and enough ballast to make sure that at least 70% of the machine filling is
guaranteed.
• Remove the test wash load immediately after the final spin cycle and place in tumble dryer.
Set the temperature as specified by fabric supplier.
If no dryer temperature is given, use low heat in dryer
Remove the specimen as soon as the machine stops.
• Repeat the washing & drying cycles an additional two times (total of 3 wash/dry cycles)
• Lay each specimen without tension on a flat, horizontal surface conditioning the sample for 4 hours.
Measure and record the distance between the benchmarks.
• Calculate dimensional change using formula below. Calculate the average warp and average weft
dimensional change.

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 23 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.03 Dimensional Changes in Home Laundry
AATCC 135 -tumble dry
Quality Manual - Apparel
Top Loading Machines (USA) –

• Use the wash temperature and cycle as specified by the fabric supplier. Look up wash temperature
on table below and use the specified machine settings and rinse temperature. If care instructions are
0
not available, use a 40 C instructions from the table below.
• Use a standard domestic detergent (one which is most readily available within the region such as
Tide or Cheer. Use 90gms detergent for each wash load (2grams per liter; 45 liter wash)
• Add test specimens and enough ballast to make a 2.0kg ± 0,1kg load.
• Remove the test wash load immediately after the final spin cycle and place in tumble dryer.
Set the temperature as specified by fabric supplier.
If no dryer temperature is given, use low heat in dryer.
Remove the specimen as soon as the machine stops.
• Repeat the washing & drying cycles an additional two times (total of 3 wash/dry cycles)
• Lay each specimen without tension on a flat, horizontal surface conditioning the sample for 4 hours.
Measure and record the distance between the benchmarks.
• Calculate dimensional change using formula below. Calculate the average warp and average weft
dimensional change.

Wash table for top loading machines.

Wash Agitation Total Load Washing Rinsing Spin Cycle

Method Setting Dry Load
Wash/Rinse
Wash temp Liquor level Wash time Liquor level Spin Time

Wash cold Normal cycle 2 kg 30 ± 3 °C 45 L 12 min. 45 L Normal

cycle

Wash warm Normal cycle 2kg 40 ± 3°C 45L 12 min. 45L Normal
cycle

Evaluation:

Measurement before wash - Measurement after wash

------------------------------------------------------------------------ X 100 = shrinkage in %
Measurement before wash

If % is less than 100% = Shrinkage (note this with a “ - “ sign)

If % is more than 100% = Growth (note this with a “+ “ sign)

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 24 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.03 Dimensional Changes in Home Laundry
AATCC 135 -tumble dry
Quality Manual - Apparel
Test Standards: Tumble Dry
Minimum requirements

KNITS WOVENS RIB RIB

All Knit Fabric All Woven Fabric (As Body Fabric) (As Body Fabric)
Construction Construction Without Elastane With Elastane

Standard Standard Standard Standard

Fabric Properties Content
(Length & Width) (Length & Width) (Length & Width) (Length & Width)

100% Natural
(+ 5/ - 8%) x (+ 5 / - 8%) (+/- 5%) x (+/- 5%) (+3/- 8%) x (+0/- 8%) (+0/-8%) x (+0/-8%)
Fibers 100% Natural
max max max max

Blends
(Chief Value (+ 5/ - 8%) x (+ 5 / - 8%) (+/- 5%) x (+/- 5%) (+3/- 8%) x (+0/- 8%) (+0/-8%) x (+0/-8%)
> 50% Natural
Natural) max max max max

100% Synthetic
100% (+/- 4%) x (+/- 4%) (+/- 3%) x (+/- 3%) (+3/- 4%) x (+0/- 4%) (+0/-4%) x (+0/-4%)
Synthetic max max max max

Blends
(Chief Value > 50% (+ 5 / - 7%) x (+ 5 / - 7%) (+/- 3%) x (+/- 3%) (+3/- 7%) x (+3/ -7%) (+0/-7%) x (+0/-7%)
Synthetic) Synthetic max max max max

Ribs USED AS (+3/- 12%) x (+0/- 8%) N/A N/A N/A

TRIM max

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 25 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.04 Skewness in Fabric and Garment Twist
AATCC 179

Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: To determine the change in skewness in woven and knitted fabrics or twist in garments when
subjected to repeated automatic laundering procedures. Washing and drying procedure and conditions as
used for dimensional stability test

Test description:

a) Fabrics
Prior to marking, condition the fabric for at least 4 hours in an atmosphere of 20°C ± 2°C, 65%± 2% RH.
Report if fabrics are distorted in its unlaundered state (grain slanting). The result after laundering should
be considered as indicative of these specimens only.

b) Procedure:
Cut a piece 60cm x 60cm out of the middle of the fabric.
Mark lengthwise grain on each sample.

Using the shrinkage template, mark (2) pairs of lines at the corners of the 3 pairs of bench marks (50cm X
50 cm) for shrinkage. – each pair of lines should intersect creating a corner, (the vertical lines should
follow the vertical grain line) (See Figure C below)

Label each intersection – A,B,C&D in clockwise direction starting at lower left corner
(See figure C below)

B
C
50cm (18“)

60cm 50cm (18“) LENGHWISE

(24“) GRAIN

bench marks for

dimensional
stability (4.02 &
4.03)

60cm (24“)

(Figure C)

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 26 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.04 Skewness in Fabric and Garment Twist
AATCC 179

Quality Manual - Apparel

Wash and dry the specimen according to the method of the dimensional changes in home laundering
(AATCC 135 (tumble dry) Fila 4.03). Condition the specimen after drying.
Measurement of square markings:

After the shrinkage has been recorded;

Measure in millimeters point A to C, and point B to D
(see figure below)

B C

Lengthwise
Grain

A D
(Figure E)

Calculate the % of Spirality by using the following calculation:

[2(AC –BD) / (AC + BD)] X 100 = % of change

Report the % of Spirality.

Minimum requirement: knits < 5% woven < 2

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 27 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.05 Heat Shrinkage of Fabrics

Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: Determination of dimensional change, and resistance to any form of color change, when
subjected to hot press or iron.

Test description:

a) Apparatus

Heating device, providing even heat transfer to the specimen from the top, by close contact, at a controlled
temperature, the size of the heating plate should be at least 40cm x 40 cm minimum and a given pressure
2
of 4 bar (or 58 lb/in )

b) Sample preparation

Cut 2 pieces 50cm x 50cm out of the test fabric.

Lay the fabric flat and mark with three 30cm pairs of benchmarks parallel to the length and width of the
fabric. See diagram below.
Cut two white cotton cloths 40cm x 40cm

30cm

30cm

Diagram showing
30 cm benchmarks
c) Test performing

Dry pressing:
• Lay the test specimen flat on the bottom plate of the press.
• Place one dry Cotton cloth on top of the specimen, lower the top plate of the heating device and leave
the specimen for 15 seconds at a temperature of 170°C.
• Before evaluation, remove the cotton cloth from specimens and let the sample fabric condition under
20°C ± 2°C and 65% ± 2% RH for 4 hours

Damp pressing:
• Soak the other Cotton cloth in distilled water, and squeeze so fabric contains its own weight of water.
• Lay the dry test specimen on top of the bottom plate of the press, place the wet CO cloth on top, lower
the top plate of the heating device and leave the specimen for 15 seconds at a temperature of 170°C.
• Before evaluation, remove the cotton cloth from specimens and let the sample fabric condition under
20°C ± 2°C and 65% ± 2% RH for 4 hours

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 28 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.05 Heat Shrinkage of Fabrics

Quality Manual - Apparel

Evaluation:
gray scale for color changing
DIN 54001
ISO 105-A02
SNV 195805
AATCC 1

Minimum requirement:
Dimensional change
< ± 2%

Color change:
grade > 4 - 5 for color change

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 29 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.07 Pilling
ASTM D 3512

Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: Determination of the resistance to the formation of pills and other related surface changes on
textile fabrics, using the Random Tumble Pilling Tester

Apparatus and materials:

- random tumble pilling tester

- cork cylinder liners
- air injection device (14kPa)
- cotton sliver, 5300 tex (75 grain)
- adhesive (Elmer’s Glue-All order no. E 372, ratio glue : water = 1:1) for sealing the
edges of the specimens
- rating standard for knits - Martindale standard photos art. 992 / K1,K2,K3
- rating standard for woven – ASTM standard photos

Test description:

a) Specimen preparation

Cut specimens in squares (105 mm) on the bias at an approximate 45° angle
to the warp (wale) and filling (course) directions. Take 3 specimens from
the fabric. Cut the specimens evenly across the width of the fabric sample. Avoid areas with crinkles and
other distortions. Do not cut specimens near the selvage
Seal the edges of all specimens to a width not exceeding 3 mm on the face of the fabric with adhesive.
Dry the specimens for at least 2 hours.

b) Preparation of apparatus
Fit a cork liner around the inside of a cleaned test chamber. Cork liners should be changed for each test.
Discard cork liners that have been used for 1 test on each side of the cork surface.

c) Conditioning
Condition the specimens and the cork liners in a standard atmosphere
(20°C ± 2°C, 65% ± 2°C RH) for at least 4 hours prior to testing.

d) Procedure
Place 3 specimen, all from the same sample and 25 mg of 5 mm gray coloured cotton fibre into the
chamber. Place the cover on the chamber and set the timer and run the machine for 30 min.

After each test is complete, remove the specimens and clean off the excess sliver. Each test chamber
should be cleaned of excess sliver after each test.

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 30 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.07 Pilling
ASTM D 3512

Quality Manual - Apparel

Evaluation:

- use the lightbox cabinet under light D 65

- look at specimen while rotating in different directions
- evaluate knitted specimen against the Martindale standard photos, art. 992 K1, K2, K3
the pilling will be rated on scale 5-1,

The Martindale rating is a ½ grade rating, therefore:

no pilling - grade 5
standard photo reads 4-5 - will be rated as 4
standard photo reads 3-4 - will be rated as 3
standard photo reads 2-3 - will be rated as 2
standard photo reads 1-2 - will be rated as 1

- evaluate the woven specimen against the ASTM D 3512 standard photos
- specimens of polar fleece; final decision should be made by FAD
- hairiness (fuzzing), comment on the report with ‘ slight, medium, serious’

Minimum requirement :

woven specimen - ASTM D3512 photo standards - grade > 4

knit specimen - K1 photo standards coarse piling – grade > 3

knit specimen - K2 photo standards regular pilling – grade > 3
knit specimen - K3 photo standards micro pilling – grade > 4

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 31 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.08 Snagging
ICI Pilling Box

Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: Determination of the resistance of fabrics against the formation of snags and other surface
changes

Apparatus:

ICI pilling tester, one box fitted with 6 standard spikes placed in the middle of each box side.
4 standard rubber tubes

Apparatus maintenance:
Spikes in apparatus must be checked every 3 months –
Cut samples from a fabric known and rated for snagging
If snagging has decreased by 1 point or more then the spikes are considered dull and must be replaced.

Test description:

• Snagging test should be performed on all fabrics using filament yarns.

• Samples should be prepared similar to the instructions of BS EN 12945-1 for pilling.
• Before cutting the test specimen, the fabric has to be washed 1 times (refer to description of “dimensional
changes in home laundering of fabrics”)
• Cut 4 pieces of 12 x 15 cm (2 in vertical and 2 in horizontal direction) fold and stitch the edges of
12cm together forming a tube 15cm in length (seam width 1 cm). Finished specimen (minus seam
allowance) will be 4cm X 15cm.
• Turn the tube inside out so that the face side is on the outside of the tube.
- Mount the specimen onto the rubber tube.
- Condition the specimen to 20°C ± 2°C and 65% ± 2% RH for 4 hours.
• Place the tubes into the snagging box and start the apparatus and stop after 3600 rotations.

Assessment:

The tested specimen will be assessed in a viewing lightbox cabinet (light source D 65)
The specimen will be compared visually with the photo standards for snagging supplied by ICI

Minimum requirement:

Knits: > 4

Woven: > 4

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 32 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.09 Bursting Strength
DIN EN ISO 13938-2; ASTM D3786
Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: To determine the force or pressure required to rupture a knitted or non-woven

fabric by use of Rubber Diaphragm Bursting Tester

Specimen preparation
Cut out of different fabric areas 5 pieces, at least 15 x 15 cm (6” X 6”). Condition these specimen in a
standard atmosphere of 20°C ± 2°C, 65% ± 2% RH for 4 hours

Apparatus
For the Air Diaphragm Bursting Tester.- Clamp firmly and uniformly securing test specimen between 2
annular, plane, parallel and preferably stainless steel surfaces, without slippage during the test. The upper
and lower clamping surface shall have a circular opening at 50 cm². The diaphragm should be replaced
after 300 inflations.

For the Mullens Burster - Place the specimen over diaphragm so that it lies flat and tensionless.
The diaphram opening is approx. 3cm in diameter. Clamp the sample down.
The diaphragm should be replaced after 300 inflations.

Test performing
For the Air Diaphragm Bursting Tester.-
The specimen is clamped over the expandable diaphragm. The Diaphragm is expanded by air to the point
of the specimen rupture. The difference between the total pressure, required to rupture the specimen and
the pressure required to inflate the diaphragm is reported as the bursting strength.

For the Mullens Burster –

Run the test keeping you hand on the forward/backward lever; as soon as the fabric ruptures, immediately
reverse the control handle allowing the pump to automatically return to the neutral position. Read the psi
level and record.

Requirements:

For the Air Diaphragm Bursting Tester.-

Knit Fabric Weight Minimum Bursting strength by fabrication
100% Natural & Fiber Blend 100% Synthethic
> 100 g/m2 N/A 160 kPa
140 g/m² - 220 g/m² > 170 kPa N/A
220 g/m² - 350 g/m² > 250 kPa N/A

For the Mullens Burster –

Knit Fabric Weight Minimum Bursting strength by fabrication
100% Natrual & Fiber Blend 100% Synthetic
< 119 g/m2 40 psi 60 psi
120 to 203 g/m2 50 psi 70-100 psi
>203 g/m2 60 psi >100 psi

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 33 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.10 Tearing / Tensile Strength
(Stripe Method for Rugby only)
DIN EN ISO 13934-1

Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: To determine the breaking strength of woven fabrics - for Rugby only

Test description:

Specimen preparation
• Cut a piece of representative fabric 500mm in length and full width, wash and dry three times.
• The fabric should be without any defects like damages or creases.
• Cut a total of 6 specimens - 3 in warp and 3 in the weft direction out of the fabric.
• The specimen have to be tested in a conditioned room (20°C ± 2°C, 65% ± 2%RH).
• Each specimen size is 300mm in length and 60mm in width.
• Fray out each side of specimen (right and left) for 5mm.

Test condition
• Before testing the specimens must be placed in the conditioned room for at least 4 hours.
• Place the specimen into the tester (grip distance is 200 mm)
• Fix the specimen in the upper and lower grip, so the specimen hangs perfectly vertical and horizontal
to the warp and weft yarns.
• Testing apparatus crosshead speed should be set at 100mm/minute.

Evaluation
The result shown on the display should be marked down.
The results are averaged and read separately by Warp and Weft groups.
Example:
Warp (average of 3 specimen)
Weft (average of 3 specimen)

Requirement
woven fabric used for rugby (all weights and types)

Warp: > 800N (180 lb.) Weft: > 600N (135 lb.)

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 34 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.11 Tearing / Tensile Strength (Grab Method)
DIN EN ISO 13934-2 / ASTM D2261
Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose To determine the breaking strength of woven fabrics

Specimen preparation

• Cut a piece of the representative fabric 500mm in length and one full width.
-The fabric should be without any defects like damages or creases.
• Cut a total of 6 specimens, 3 in the warp and 3 in the weft direction out of the fabric.
• Each specimen is 150mm in length and 100mm in width.
• A line should be marked exactly 38mm in length along the 150mm length.
-The line must precisely follow the warp / weft grain line
• The specimen must to be tested in a conditioned room (20°C ± 2°C, 65% ± 2% RH).

Test condition

• Before testing, the specimen must be placed in a conditioned room

20°C ± 2°C and 65% ± 2% RH for a minimum of 4 hours.
• Place the specimen into the tester (distance of the grips 75 mm apart)
• Fix the specimen in the upper grip and lower grip, so the marked line hangs perfectly vertical.
• Testing apparatus crosshead speed should be set at – 50mm/min
.

Evaluation

The result shown on the display should be marked down.

The results are averaged and read separately by Warp and Weft groups.
Example:
Warp (average of 3 specimens)
Weft (average of 3 specimens)

Requirement

For woven fabric not used for rugby (all weights and types)

Warp: > 250N (56 lbs.) Weft: > 250N (56 lbs.)

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 35 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.12 Elongation of Elastic Fabrics

Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: Determination on the elongation and resilience of elasticized fabrics

Test description:

Either method 4.12 or 4.27 is acceptable to use for elongation test

a) Apparatus:

Tensile testing machine, clamp width 10 cm, clamp distance 10 cm

b) Specimen preparation

• Cut a total of 6 specimens –

3 pieces (20 cm X 10 cm) in length direction following the grain line and
3 pieces (20 cm x 10 cm) in width direction.
• For Ribs – Cut 3 pieces in the width direction only.
Perform test on after wash samples.
Specimens should be 3 times wash and dry (according to the wash method of dimensional changes of
fabrics in home laundry)
• Condition the specimen in 20°C± 2°C, 65% ± 2% RH for 4 hours.
• Place the specimen, between the upper and lower clamp (distance 10 cm) mark the distance of the
clamps.
• Crosshead speed of testing apparatus should be set to 400mm/min

c) Test performing

• Start the machine and stretch the fabric

• The machine should cycle 2 times (exercising the fabric), follow table below for amount of pull
necessary.
rd
• Report percentage of extension on 3 cycle.
• Remove the fabric specimen out of the machine as soon as clamp returns to original position.
• Lay specimen flat on a table, measure between the 10cm clamp lines for recovery after 1 hour
relaxation.

Equation for Recovery:

Original measurement - Recovery measurement

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- X 100 + 100 = % of recovery
Original measurement

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 36 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.12 Elongation of Elastic Fabrics

Quality Manual - Apparel

Minimum requirement: The stretch elongation in length & width depends on the fabric development

Standards: Elongation minimums

Ribs (as trim) Ribs (as trim)

Fabrics Fabrics Rib (body fabric) Rib (body fabric)
without elastane with elastane
(Body fabrics) (Comfort knits) Without elastane With elastane
(After Wash) (After Wash)
(After Wash) (After Wash)
60N (13 lb) force 44N (10lb) force 13N (3 lb.) force 22N (5 lb.) force 13N (3 lb.) force 22N (5 lb.) force
Length X Width Length X Width Width Only Width Only Width Only Width Only

> 8% elastane > 140% x 90% N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A

< 8% elastane
N/A > 20% x 60% N/A N/A N/A N/A
(Comfort knits)
Rib
N/A N/A > 60% N/A > 100% N/A
Without elastane
Rib
N/A N/A N/A > 80% N/A > 130%
with elastane

Standards: Resilience (Recovery) minimums

After 1 hour

Ribs (as trim) Ribs (as trim) Rib (body fabric) Rib (body fabric)
Fabrics Fabrics
Fabric spec without elastane with elastane Without elastane With elastane
(body fabrics) (Comfort knits)
(After Wash) (After Wash) (After Wash) (After Wash)

60N (13 lb) force 44N (10lb) force 13N (3 lb.) force 22N (5 lb.) force 13N (3 lb.) force 22N (5 lb.) force
Length x Width Length x Width Width Only Width Only Width Only Width Only

> 8% elastane > 95% N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A

< 8% elastane
N/A > 90% N/A N/A N/A N/A
(Comfort knits)
Rib
N/A N/A > 85% N/A > 85% N/A
without elastane
Rib
N/A N/A N/A > 95% N/A > 95%
with elastane

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 37 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.13 Seam - Slippage
BS 3320 / ASTM D434
Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: The test method covers the determination of the resistance to slippage of Filling yarns over
warp yarns, or warp yarns over filling yarns using a standard seam.

Test description:

Apparatus
Single needle industrial lock stitch machine
Tensile strength tester, capable of giving a rate of jaw separation of 100 mm/min ± 10 mm
Sewing thread: 100% PES core spun yarn, having a continuous filament PES core-yarn and a
staple PES fiber sheath, thicket no. 80 ( 250 dtex x 2 )
Needle no. 90.

Specimen preparation
• Cut a piece of the representative fabric 600mm length and full width.
• The fabric should be without any defects like damages or creases.
• Wash and dry the specimen 3 times before conducting the test
(according to wash method of dimensional changes of fabrics in home laundry).
• The specimen should be tested in a conditioned room (20°C± 2°C, 65%± 2% RH).
• Cut a total of 6 specimens, 3 in warp and 3 in the weft direction out of the washed fabric.
• The specimen size is 100mm in length and 250mm in width.
• Fold the 100 mm length in half.
• Make a lock stitch seam with a seam allowance of 1cm from the fold-line.
Stitch density: 5 stitches/cm (13 stitches/inch), seam allowance 1cm (3/8 inch).
• Cut open the seamed specimen on the fold-line.

Test condition

• Before testing the specimens must be placed in a conditioned room for at least 4 hours.
• Place the specimen into the tester (distance of the grips 100 mm)

Evaluation

The test has to be stopped as soon as a seam opening of 5 mm is noticed

The result shown on the display should be marked down.
The results are averaged and read separately by warp and weft groups
Example:
Warp (average of 3 specimens)
Weft (average of 3 specimens)

Requirement
Woven fabrics (all weights and types)

Warp: > 200N (45 lbs.) Weft: > 200N (45 lbs.)

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 38 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.14 Tear Growth Resistance
DIN EN 13937-2

Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: To determine the tear growth resistance of fabrics

Test description:

a) Specimen preparation
• Cut a piece of the representative fabric 500mm in length and one full width.
The fabric should be without any defects like damages or creases
• Wash and dry specimen 3 times according to dimensional stability instruction.
• Cut 6 specimens, 3 in the warp and 3 in the weft direction out of the fabric.
• The specimen size is 200mm in length and 100mm in width.
• Starting at the edge and in the middle of the 100mm width, cut a line 10cm in length. The line
must precisely follow the warp / weft grain line
• A point should be marked in the middle of the opposite side; measured 25mm from the cut edge.

b) Test conditions
• Before testing, specimens must be in conditioned room (20°C ± 2°C, 65% ± 2% RH)
for a minimum of 4 hours.
• Cross-head speed should be set at 100mm/min
• Fix the specimen, one leg in the upper grip, the other leg in the lower grip.
• Tear the specimen – starting from the side with the cut line - up to the marked point.

c) Evaluation
The result shown on the display should be marked down.
The results are averaged and read separately by warp and weft groups
Example:
Warp (average of 3 specimens)
Weft (average of 3 specimens)

Requirement:

For woven fabric (all weights and types)

Warp: > 10N (or > 3 lb) Weft: > 10N (or > 3 lb)

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 39 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.15 Button Hole Tearing Strength
(For Rugby Only)
Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: To determine the force which is needed to break the button hole on rugby garments according
to the Grab Method ( DIN 53858 modified)

Test 1: Cut a length of tape 50 cm long, measure to 10 cm and sew a button hole crosswise (1cm
length), use the same yarn and stitch density as in the later garment. The buttonhole must be in the center
of the tape width. Cut the tape in pieces of 5 cm length.

The distance between the clamps should be 3 cm. Place the tape in lengthwise direction between the
clamps; the buttonhole must be in the center. Close the clamps and start testing.
Velocity is 100 mm/min

Calculation: average of 3 measurements

Minimum requirement > 600N (>135 lb.)

Test 2: Cut a length of tape 50 cm long, measure to 10 cm and sew a buttonhole lengthwise
(1 cm length), use the same yarn and stitch density as in the later garment. The buttonhole must be in the
center of the tape width. Cut the tape in pieces of 5 cm lengths.

The distance between the clamps should be 3 cm. Place the tape cross wise between the clamps. The
buttonhole must be in the center. Close the clamps and start testing.
Velocity is 100 mm/min

Calculation: Average of 3 measurements

Minimum requirement > 600N (>135 lb.)

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 40 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.16 Abrasion Resistance DIN 53863 / 2

Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose:The rotary abrasion test is used for even/smooth fabrics, which will be stressed by abrasion
during normal usage. It is not applicable for stretchable fabrics or fabric, which will be deformed easily.

Specimen preparation:

Cut across the entire width of the fabric 5 round pieces of 100 cm².
The samples have to be conditioned at 20°C ± 2°C and 65% ± 2% rel. humidity for at least 2 hours.

Apparatus (Schopper)

The specimen will be mounted in a circular clamp over an obtuse-angled metal cone, by means of a
clamping ring and a tightening collar. The vault height of the cone should be 5 mm. The test area of the
specimen is 50cm²
The driving mechanism is such that the circular clamp makes a reciprocal motion after 50 turns.
The balance head and the abradant plate should have a free movement in a direction perpendicular to the
plane of the reciprocating specimen clamp. The vertical pressure of the balance head (abradant plate)
depends on the m²-weight of the fabric.

m²-weight up to 100 vertical pressure 1 N

m²-weight > 100 - 150 vertical pressure 2 N
m²-weight > 150 - 300 vertical pressure 5 N
m²-weight > 300 vertical pressure 10 N

As abradant, emery paper is used , the grain depends on the fabric

up to 150 g/m² emery paper grain 400
> 150 g/m² emery paper grain 280

Test procedure

Place the samples into the test machine. If the vertical pressure of the balance head and the emery paper
has been adjusted according to fabric, the machine can be started.

Evaluation

Determine the end point by one of the following criteria as specified:

Visual rating - check the specimen after 50 cycles, evaluate visually for the effect of abrasion on luster,
color, fabric structure. If nothing has been changed continue for the next 50 cycles until a change is noted.
Report the number of cycles. The test should be continued until a hole in the fabric specimen is visible,
report the number of cycles.

The fabric fails if there is any change in structure, color or luster noted below 1000 cycles, and if a hole
appears below 1000 cycles.
Excluded from this test are pigment dyed fabrics and prints

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 41 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.17 Padding Test Method

Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: To determine the stability of padding (polyfill)

Test description:

m² - weight: scope to determine the weight of the padding

cut 4 samples out of different areas, across the width

remove the bonding if possible

use an electronic balance to determine the weight

calculate the result for unit g/m² or oz/yd²

report the average weight of the padding and if possible of the
bonding separately

tolerance for the padding ± 7,5%

tolerance for the bonding ± 5%

Thickness:

Scope: to determine the thickness of the padding. This is usually a pre-determined value in the sales
contract

cut 4 samples out of different areas at 20 x 20 cm

use a thickness tester to determine the thickness

measure the thickness after I minute of resilience in mm / inch

measure the thickness after first and third washing ( use the sample of the evaluation of batting)

Requirement:

Before washing the thickness must comply to the pre-determined value

rd
After 3 washing the thickness should have not less than 80% of the original thickness

Evaluation of batting (ASTM D 4470-88):

The batting shall be tested in a test panel assembly by laundering and dry-cleaning with gentle cycle

The batting shall be examined for integrity by comparing it to the Photographic Rating Standard

The rating will be taken after the first and the third wash

Grade 5 - no detectable change

4 - slight change
3 - moderate change
2 - significant change
1 - extreme change

Tolerance - not worse than grade 4

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 42 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.17 Padding Test Method

Quality Manual - Apparel

Compression and Resilience:

cut 5 specimens of 20 x 20 cm and pile them together

an initial pressure of 0,25g/m² is placed on top of the pile for 1 min.

the average height 'A' is measured

a pressure of 10g/m² is placed on top of the pile for 15 hours. Release the pressure , let the specimen
relax for 30 min and measure the average height 'B'

the average height 'A should be equal to the average height 'B'

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 43 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.18 Padding Requirements

Quality Manual - Apparel

weight g/m² thickness (cm) yarn / thickness

40/50/60 5 - 8 mm PES /1- 3µ

80 8 - 10 mm PES /1- 3µ
100 10 - 15 mm PES /1- 3µ
140 15 - 20 mm PES /1- 3µ
180 20 - 25 mm PES /1- 3µ
220 25 - 30 mm PES /1- 3µ
260 30 - 35 mm PES /1- 3µ
300 35 - 40 mm PES /1- 3µ
340 40 - 45 mm PES /1- 3µ
380 45 - 50 mm PES /1- 3µ

weight tolerance ± 7,5%

Bonded padding

spray bonding - one side / two sides

heat bonding / laser bonding - one side / two sides

fleece or tricot bonding, 100%PES - one side / two sides, weight not over 15-20g/m²

the mentioned thickness is including the bonding, if the bonding cannot be removed

in exceptional cases also taffeta bonding can be used

All padding must comply to the Fila environmental requirements

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 44 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.19 Determination of Fabric Weight g / m²
ISO 3801 / ASTM 3776
Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: To determine fabric weight

Apparatus:
2
Die, circular cutters of 100 cm surface area.

Balance, capable of determining the mass of pieces to an accuracy of 0.1% of

the determined mass

Procedure:
2
• Cut 8 random samples using a circular cutting die with an area of 100 cm .
• The samples must be at least 10 cm away from selvage and taken from different areas in the
fabric so as not to duplicate testing of the same warp or fill yarns.
• Avoid creases or folds.
• Place cut specimens in conditioned room (20°C ± 2°C, 65% ± 2% RH) for a minimum of 4 hours.
• Weigh the 8 samples together on a calibrated balance accurate to 0.001 gm.

Calculate the weight using the formula.

(wt. gm = total weight in grams of 8 samples)

2
wt. gm gm/m
2 2
X 100 = gm/m and = oz/yd
8 33.91

Report results in gm/m2 or oz/yd² rounding to the nearest gm (0.00) and to the
nearest tenth of an ounce (0.0)

Requirement:

All types of fabric (knit, woven and non woven)

± 5% from specification

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 45 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.20 Elongation / Elastic Force
Dupont Method (manual)
Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: Determination of the elongation and elastic force of elastic fabrics (manually operated)

Test description:

a) Specimen preparation

• Cut a total of 6 specimens – 3 pieces cut (20cm x 30cm) in lengthwise direction following the grain
line. Cut 3 pieces (20cm x 30cm) in width direction following the grain line.
• Cut the samples at least 10cm from the salvage.
• Condition the specimen for at least 4 hours ( 20°C± 2°C and 65% ± 2% RH)
• The specimens are folded in half to get a 10cm x 30cm sample.
.
-Mark the sample 10cm from both edges so that on the 30cm length there is a middle length of 10cm

d) Test performing

• Lay the ruler flat on the table; take the marked specimen with both hands so that each thumb is on the
marked lines.
• Press the left hand with the left mark on the zero point of the ruler and the right hand with the right
mark is at the 10cm point.
• Stretch the sample with the right hand as far as possible. Read from the ruler the maximum
extension.
• Stretch each specimen a total of 3 times; record each extension.
• Take the average of the 3 readings, and record the average.

• Leave the specimens laying flat; Measure the elastic resiliency (recovery) immediately after stretching
and again after 10 minutes of relaxation.

Evaluation: for Stretch

Extended length (in cm) - Initial length (in cm)

------------------------------------------------------------------ X 100 = % of stretch
Initial length (in cm)

Evaluation: for Recovery

Extended length (in cm) – recovery length (in cm)

------------------------------------------------------------------ X 100 = % of recovery
Extended length (in cm) - initial length (in cm)

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 46 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.20 Elongation / Elastic Force
Dupont Method (manual)
Quality Manual - Apparel

Minimum requirement: The stretch elongation in length & width depends on the fabric development

Standards: Elongation minimums

Ribs (as trim) Ribs (as trim)

Fabrics Fabrics Rib (body fabric) Rib (body fabric)
without elastane with elastane
(Body fabrics) (Comfort knits) Without elastane With elastane
(After Wash) (After Wash)
(after wash) (after wash)

> 8% elastane > 140% x 90% N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A

< 8% elastane
N/A > 20% x 60% N/A N/A N/A N/A
(Comfort knits)
Rib
N/A N/A > 60% N/A > 100% N/A
Without elastane
Rib
N/A N/A N/A > 80% N/A > 130%
with elastane

Standards: Resilience (Recovery) minimums

After 10 minutes

Ribs (as trim) Ribs (as trim) Rib (body fabric) Rib (body fabric)
Fabrics Fabrics
Fabric spec without elastane with elastane Without elastane With elastane
(body fabrics) (Comfort knits)
(after Wash) (after Wash) (after wash) (after wash)

> 8% elastane > 95% N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A

< 8% elastane
N/A > 90% N/A N/A N/A N/A
(Comfort knits)
Rib
N/A N/A > 85% N/A > 85% N/A
without elastane
Rib
N/A N/A N/A > 95% N/A > 95%
with elastane

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 47 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.21 Cuttable Width

Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose
To confirm the actual usable / cuttable width of a fabric.

Test description

a) Apparatus

Steel Ruler with measurements in centimeters and inches.

b) Sample preparation

Condition the fabric to relative humidity of 65% ± 2% and a temperature of 20°C ± 2°C. for 4 hours
Lay fabric flat and remove wrinkles gently by hand without stretching the specimen.

c) Preforming test

Using a steel ruler, take 1 measurement the width for the actual usable width of the fabric. Do not include
in the measurement the edges where the fabric was framed, glued or where a coating is inconsistent.

Report the actual cuttable width in centimeters and inches.

Requirements:

All fabrics (knit, woven and non woven) –

+/- 5% from specification

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 48 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.23 Thread Count / Density
ASTM D3775 / ASTM D 3887-#12

Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose:
To accurately determine the number of warp yarns and fill yarns per cm or inch in woven fabrics or to
determine the number of wales and courses per cm or inch on a knit fabric.

Apparatus
Traversing thread counter sufficient to measure a distance of 0 to 2.5 cm (or 0 to 2 inches or more).

Procedure:

Take 3 random counts using thread counter. Count the threads or stitches for 1 cm or 1-inch distance.
The samples must be at least 10 cm (4 inches) away from selvage and taken from different places in the
fabric so as not to duplicate testing of the same warp or filling yarns. Avoid creases or folds.

Count the number of warps and fillings or the number of wales and courses. Average the three samples.
Calculate and report the counts for one centimeter and also for one inch. State the warp or wale direction
first.

Requirement:
Fabric is approved if the count is not less or more than 5% of the supplier’s specified count. Be aware
that the supplier’s specified count may reflect the greige count or count before the goods were finished.

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 49 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.25 Approval Procedure for
Transfer Prints

Quality Manual - Apparel

To submit transfer prints for lab approval the completely mandatory together with a sufficient
number of prints, applied on the original fabric.

Quality tests conducted for new print developments:

1. Washing Test - wash the prints in a commercial household washing machine, filled up with the
specified loading, 5 times at 40°C and same sample 5 times at 60°C. The prints have to be tumble
dried on low after washing. Evaluate the prints after each wash / dry cycle to check for any
appearance deviation from the original. Stop washing if any deviation will be noticed

2. Iron Test - iron the print (inside out) for 3 seconds with a temperature of 150°C , evaluate the color
change , if a change is noticed proceed with the migration test on the fabric only

3. Migration Test - this test refers to the fabric only , a fabric cutting has to be covered with white PES
fabric and pressed with 4 bar, 150° C for 30 seconds,

4. Pheniloc Yellowing Test

5. Health & Environmental tests, relevant for the submitted print specification

6. Graphic Creative Layout will be approved by Development

Tests conducted on prints for bulk production

1. Washing Tests - wash the prints in a commercial household washing machine, filled up with the
specified loading, 5 times wash at 40°C and tumble dry. Evaluate the prints after each wash / dry
cycle to check for any appearance change from the original. Stop washing if any deviation will be
noticed

2. Tape test - conduct the tape test on 3 samples to verify that the print specifications have been set
properly A partly de-lamination of the print layers is to accept, the print is to reject, if the print - glue is
pulled off by the tape, even on a small edge.

3. Color will be approved by Colorist, and developer.

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 50 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.27 Elongation of Elastic Fabrics C-Clamp

Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: Determination on the elongation and resilience of elasticized fabrics

Test description:
For elongation and recovery either method 4.12 (grip method) or 4.27 (C-clamp method) is
acceptable.

a) Apparatus:
Tensile testing machine
C-clamp fixture

b) Specimen preparation
Cut a total of 6 specimens –
• 3 pieces (11 inch long x 3-7/8 inch wide) or (28cm x 10cm) in length direction following the
grain line and 3 pieces (11 inch long x 3-7/8 inch wide) or (28cm x 10cm) in width direction.
• For Ribs – Cut 3 pieces in the width direction only.
Perform test on after wash samples.
Wash and dry specimen 3 times (according to the wash method of dimensional changes of
fabrics in home laundry)
• Place 2 shorter ends together and stitch; ½ -inch or (1.3cm) seam allowance. Making a loop.
st
• In the middle of the specimen, make 2 marks 10cm apart; 1 mark is ½ -inch below stitch
line, and second mark is 10cm from the first mark. See diagram below.
• Condition the specimen in 20°C± 2°C, 65% ± 2% RH for 4 hours.
• Place the specimen, over the upper and lower C-clamps. (distance between clamps 5” or
12.6 cm)
• Crosshead speed of testing apparatus should be set to 400mm/min

½ inch seam
allowance

10cm

c) Test performing

• Start the machine and stretch the fabric

• The machine should cycle 2 times (exercising the fabric), follow table below for amount of pull
necessary.
For Rib – 100% cotton pull to 3 lb. (13 N); Blends and rib with elastane pull to 5 lb. (22 N)
rd
• Report percentage of extension on 3 cycle.
• Remove the fabric specimen out of the machine as soon as clamp returns to it’s original
position.
• Lay specimen flat, measure between the 10cm marks for recovery after 1 hour relaxation.

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 51 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

4.27 Elongation of Elastic Fabrics C-Clamp

Quality Manual - Apparel

Equation for Recovery:

Original measurement - Recovery measurement

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- X 100 + 100 = % of
recovery
Original measurement

Minimum requirement: The stretch elongation in length & width depends on the fabric
development

Standards: Elongation minimums

Ribs (as trim) Ribs (as trim)

Fabrics Fabrics Rib (body fabric) Rib (body fabric)
without elastane with elastane
(Body fabrics) (Comfort knits) Without elastane With elastane
(After Wash) (After Wash)
(after wash) (after wash)
60N (13 lb) force 44N (10lb) force 13N (3 lb.) force 22N (5 lb.) force 13N (3 lb.) force 22N (5 lb.) force
Length X Width Length X Width Width Only Width Only Width Only Width Only

> 8% elastane > 140% x 90% N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A

< 8% elastane
N/A > 20% x 60% N/A N/A N/A N/A
(Comfort knits)
Rib
N/A N/A > 60% N/A > 100% N/A
Without elastane
Rib
N/A N/A N/A > 80% N/A > 130%
with elastane

Standards: Resilience (Recovery) minimums

After 1 hour

Ribs (as trim) Ribs (as trim) Rib (body fabric) Rib (body fabric)
Fabrics Fabrics
Fabric spec without elastane with elastane Without elastane With elastane
(body fabrics) (Comfort knits)
(after Wash) (after Wash) (after wash) (after wash)

60N (13 lb) force 44N (10lb) force 13N (3 lb.) force 22N (5 lb.) force 13N (3 lb.) force 22N (5 lb.) force
Length x Width Length x Width Width Only Width Only Width Only Width Only

> 8% elastane > 95% N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A

< 8% elastane
N/A > 90% N/A N/A N/A N/A
(Comfort knits)
Rib
N/A N/A > 85% N/A > 85% N/A
without elastane
Rib
N/A N/A N/A > 95% N/A > 95%
with elastane

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 52 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

5.01 Colourfastness to Washing
(ISO 105-C06 / AATCC 61)
Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: Determination of the colorfastness of dyeing and prints to domestic laundering.

Apparatus Needed
• Apparatus for rotating closed containers in a thermostatically controlled water bath
• Stainless steel cylinders 500mL containers: (75 mm in diameter by 125 mm tall)
• Stainless steel balls with 0.6 cm in diameter.
• Multifiber: ISO Ref. Standard Multifiber Fabric DW
• Detergent- use either of following-
• ECE detergent (without fluorescent whitening agent
-OR-
• AATCC 1993 Standard Reference Detergent WOB (without fluorescent whitening agent).

Specimen preparation

Cut one piece of 10cm X 4cm from the test fabric and sew (or staple) together with a piece
10cm X 4cm of multifiber material SDC on one short side only (SDC=Society of Dyers and
Colorists).

Test solution

For washing temperature 30°C or 40°C, prepare a testing solution of 4g/l ECE or AATCC
detergent (without fluorescent whitening agent) and distilled water,
For washing temperature 60°C or 95°C prepare a testing solution of 4g/l ECE or AATCC
detergent (without fluorescent whitening agent) and distilled water, plus 1g/l Sodiumcarbonate
Na2Co3, pH 10.5

Test performing

The general test temperature is 40°C, unless 60°C or 95°C is required.

Only for these fabrics where the colorfastness does not achieve the requirements on 40°C, but at
a temperature of 30°C, the developer must be informed for adjustment of the care instruction.

Add detergent solution and steel ball to containers and load containers equally on all sides in
apparatus to insure balance in machine.

Load containers containing water, detergent and steel balls - Pre-heat the water bath for 10
minutes to the required temperature
Place the specimen into the test container, ratio of 9:1 ( 9 parts solution and 1 part fabric +
multifiber stripe, e.g. for a fabric of 2g you need 18g solution) and 25 steel balls. Put the container
into the tester (e.g. Linitest) and start testing, running time is 30 minutes at required temperature.

After the test, the fabric has to be rinsed 3 times: 2 times in cold distilled water
1 time in floating cold tap water for 10 min.
Squeeze the excess water from the specimen by hand.

Line-dry the specimen in warm air not exceeding 60°C

Be careful that multifiber and test-fabric do not touch each other.

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 53 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

5.01 Colourfastness to Washing
(ISO 105-C06 / AATCC 61)
Quality Manual - Apparel

Evaluation: grey scale for color staining

DIN 54002
ISO 105-A03
SNV 195806
AATCC 2

gray scale for color changing

DIN 54001
ISO 105-A02
SNV 195805
AATCC 1

Minimum requirement:
color staining grade 4*
color change grade 4 -5
*If white or light colored inserts are used together with dark colors in the
same garment, grade 4-5 is requested for color staining, and an
additional washtest between dark and light colored fabric is mandatory.

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 54 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

5.02 Colorfastness to Perspiration
ISO 105 - E04

Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: Determination of the color fastness of colored and printed textiles to human perspiration

Specimen preparation:
Cut two pieces of 10cm X 4cm (4” X 1½”) from the test fabric and sew each of them together with a piece
of multifibre material 10cm x 4cm (4” X 1½”)(SDC). Prepare two testing specimen per fabric, one for
alkaline and one for acid perspiration test.

Test solution

alkaline solution: 1l distilled water

0,5g L-Histidin-monohydrochlorid-1-hydrate
(C6H9O2N3 HCL H2O)
5g Sodiumchloride NaCl
5g Sodium hydrogen orthophosphate -12-hydrate
(Na2HPO4 12 H2O)

pH value 8,0

acid solution: 1l distilled water

0,5g L-Histidin-monohydrochlorid-1-hydrate
(C6H9O2N3 HCL H2O)
5g Sodiumchloride NaCl
2,2g Sodium di-hydogen orthophosphate 2-hydrate
(NaH2PO4 2H2O)

pH value 5,5

Test performing
• In individual beakers (one beaker for each specimen and multifiber being tested).
• Pour 100ml of test solution into each beaker.
• Soak each specimen in the test solution (the solution should well cover the specimen)
(one specimen in the alkaline solution and one in the acid solution)
• Soak specimens for 30 minutes (stirring and turning from time to time).
• After the specimen are completely wetted, remove specimen from solution, squeeze, and place the
specimen between two acrylic or glass plates (alkaline and acid separately).
• Place the specimen into either Perspiration tester or Perspirometer
*If using the Perspiration tester close the tester with an 8lb. weight
*If using the Perspirometer, close the tester with a 5Kg wt. pressure
(either tester is acceptable)
• Place the tester in a preconditioned oven at (37 +/- 2 °C) for 4 hours.
• Remove from oven after 4 hours
• Dry the specimen at a temperature not exceeding 60°C make sure the multifiber and test fabric do not
touch each other while drying.

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 55 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

5.02 Colorfastness to Perspiration
ISO 105 - E04

Quality Manual - Apparel

Evaluation: grey scale for assessing staining

ISO 105-A03
BS 1006-A03
AATCC 2

grey scale for assessing color change

ISO 105-A02
BS 1006-A02
AATCC 1

Minimum requirement:
Color staining grade > 4
Color change grade > 4 - 5

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 56 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

5.03 Colorfastness to Water
EN ISO - E01 / AATCC 107
Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: Determination of colorfastness to water on colored and printed textiles

Apparatus
Perspiration Tester or Persirometer
Pressure wt.
Distilled water
Conditioned oven,
Multifiber strips (ISO DW)

Specimen preparation

Cut one piece, 10cm X 4cm (4” X 1-½”) from the test fabric and sew each of them together with a piece of
multifiber material 10cm x 4cm (4” X 1-½”)(SDC).

Performing Test

• In individual beakers (one beaker for each specimen and multifiber being tested).
• Soak each specimen in distilled water (150ml) for 30 minutes, soak the specimen evenly and squeeze
out excess water.
• Place the specimen between two acrylic or glass plates
• Place the specimens into either Perspiration tester apparatus or Perspirometer apparatus
(either apparatus is acceptable)
*If using the Perspiration tester close the tester with an 8 lb. weight
*If using the Perspirometer, close the tester with a 5Kg wt. pressure
• Place the tester in a preconditioned oven at (37 +/- 2 °C) for 4 hours.
• Remove specimens from oven.
• Dry the specimen at a temperature not exceeding 60°C make sure the multifiber and test fabric do not
touch each other while drying.

Evaluation: Grey scale for color staining

DIN 54002
ISO 105-A03
SNV 195806
AATCC 2

Grey scale for color changing

DIN 54001
ISO 105-A02
SNV 195805
AATCC 1

Minimum requirement: color staining grade > 4

color change grade > 4-5

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 57 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

5.04 Colorfastness to Crocking
ISO 105x12 / AATCC 8

Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: To determine the amount of color transferred from the surface of dyed and printed
fabrics to other surfaces by rubbing.

Test description:

a) Apparatus: Crockmeter or equivalent

Crockmeter Test Cloth, combed cotton, desized, bleached (without optical brightener).
Graduated or Automatic Pipetter, or syringe tube
Calibrated balance

Sample preparation
Cut a piece of the test specimen fabric – of adequate size for the machine to achieve a good grip and
large test area.
Cut 2 pieces of 100% Cotton bleached standard woven fabric (5cm X 5cm)
-or- Use 2 pieces of
Crockmeter test cloth (precut 5cm X 5cm) 1 square is used
for each test (wet & dry).

Test performing

Condition the specimen and the crock-square for at least 4 hours in an atmosphere of 20°C ±
2°C and 65% RH ± 2% (relative humidity).
Place the fabric specimen (in warp direction) on the base of the Crockmeter resting flat on the abrasive
cloth (the longer dimension in the direction of rubbing). Mount the white test cotton cloth square over the
end of the finger of the Crockmeter and secure.

dry crocking:
-Turn crockmeter 10 complete turns, at a rate of one turn per second
2
- weight:400g/m (=9N)

wet crocking:
-Wet the test cloth square to achieve 100% wetting.
- Weigh 1 cotton test cloth square ( in grams)
- Using the pipetter place an amount of distilled water equal to the weight of the crocking square onto
the surface of the crocking square. This will result in 100% wet pick up for the wet crocking.
(Example: Place 1 cotton test cloth squares on the calibrated balance.
the cotton test cloth square weighs .26gm – with pipetter (or syringe) add enough
distilled water to cotton test cloth until the weight increases to .52 gm – if needed,
adjust the pipetter, and repeat)

-Turn crockmeter 10 complete turns, at a rate of one turn per second

2
- weight:400g/m (=9N)

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 58 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

5.04 Colorfastness to Crocking
ISO 105x12 / AATCC 8

Quality Manual - Apparel

Evaluation: AATCC Chromatic transference scale

-or-
grey scale for color staining
DIN 54002
ISO 105-A03
SNV 195806
AATCC 2

The color staining on the white testing square as well as the color changing of the tested specimen should
be evaluated

Minimum requirement: Dry: grade > 4 Wet: grade > 3

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 59 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

5.06 Colorfastness to Chlorinated Water
ISO 105 - E03
Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose Determination of the resistance of dyeing and prints to the action of active
Chlorine on concentration such is used to disinfect swimming-bath water.
The active Chlorine concentration of 50 mg/l is intended for swimwear. The
active Chlorine concentration of 20 mg/l is intended for accessories such as
beach robes and towels.

Apparatus
Apparatus for rotating closed containers in a thermostatically controlled water bath
(e.g. Launderometer)
Stainless steel cylinders 500ml containers: (75mm in diameter by 125mm tall)
Hypochlorite solution

Procedure

Each specimen shall be tested in a separate container.

All sodium hypochlorite solutions should be prepared just prior to use.
Cut a piece out of the test fabric (10cm x 4cm).
Place test fabric into stainless steel cylinder
Immerse the specimen in the freshly prepared sodium hypochlorite solution ( 50mg/l active chlorine or
20mg/l active chlorine depends on the fabric use) liquor ratio 100:1, ensuring that the specimen is
thoroughly wetted.
Close the stainless steel container and turn on rotating apparatus and agitate at 27°C ± 2°C for 1 hour.
Remove the specimen from the container, squeeze out excess moisture and dry it by hanging it in air at
room temperature in subdued light.

Evaluation:
Assess the change in colour with the grey scale

Grey scale for color changing

DIN 54001
ISO 105-A02
SNV 195805
AATCC 1

Minimum requirement

grade > 4

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 60 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

5.08 Colorfastness to Sea Water
DIN ISO 105 E02
Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: Determination of the colorfastness to sea water of colored and printed fabrics used for
swimwear

Test description:

Apparatus
Perspiration Tester or Perspirometer
Multifiber material (SDC) 10cm X 4cm (4” X 1½”)
NaCl
Conditioning Oven

Specimen preparation
Cut one piece,10cm X 4cm (4” X 1½”), from the test fabric and sew it together with a piece of
multifiber material (SDC) 10cm X 4cm (4” X 1½”)
Test solution: 30g/l NaCl in 1L distilled water

Test performing
• In individual beakers (one beaker for each specimen and multifiber being tested).
• Pour 100ml of test solution into each beaker.
• Soak specimen in the test solution for 30 minutes, the specimen must be well covered with solution.
• Soak the specimen evenly, after 30 minutes squeeze out excess moisture.
• Place the specimen between two acrylic or glass plates,
• Place the specimens into either Perspiration tester apparatus or Perspirometer apparatus
(either apparatus is acceptable)
*If using the Perspiration tester close the tester with an 8 lb. weight
*If using the Perspirometer, close the tester with a 5Kg wt. pressure
• Place the tester in conditioning oven (37+/- 2°C) for 4 hours.
• When finished remove tester from oven, and specimens from tester.
• Line dry specimens in warm air not exceeding 60°C and be careful that the multifiber does not touch
the test fabric.

Evaluation: Grey scale for color staining

DIN 54002
ISO 105-A03
SNV 195806
AATCC 2

Grey scale for color change

DIN 54001
ISO 105-A02
SNV 195805
AATCC 1

Minimum requirement: color-staining grade > 4

color-change grade > 4

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 61 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

5.09 Color Migration of Fabrics
JIS L 0879
Quality Manual - Apparel
Purpose: This test method is used to evaluate color change and color migration of dyed textiles, when
subjected to the action of dry heat

Apparatus
Dry heating device, consisting of a pair of hot-plates and capable of pressing a constant adequate
2
pressure 4 kPa ( .58 lb/in ) and a to keep accurately to a specified temperature ± 2°C providing
even heat transfer.

Test description:
A composite specimen is dry-heated by specified time and temperature. The color fastness of the
specimen to dry heat is assessed, by rating the change in color of the specimen and un-dyed cloth
with the gray-scale for assessing staining.

Specimen preparation
The size of the specimen shall be adequate to the size of the dry heating device, e.g. 10cm x 4cm.
The un-dyed fabric should be of same fiber composition as the dyed test sample.
Both samples should be sewn together at one short end with white cotton sewing thread.

Test performing
Condition the composite specimen in a standard atmosphere (21°C +/- 2° ; 65% rh +/-2%) for 4
hours . Rapidly place it between the hot-plates of dry heating device, which are kept at the
specified temperature, and continue to press it for the specified time. Remove it from the dry
heating device and leave it at room temperature in the standard atmosphere for about 4 hours.

Classification and condition of test

method temperature °C time (in seconds)

A 150 ± 2 30

Evaluation: gray scale for color staining

ISO 105-A03
SNV 195806
AATCC 2

gray scale for color changing

DIN 54001
ISO 105-A02
SNV 195805
AATCC 1

Requirements
staining grade > 4-5
color change grade > 4-5

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 62 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

5.10 Phenolic Yellowing Test
Courtauld

Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: Determination of discoloration of yarns, fabric or garments caused by the action of oxides or
nitrogen on yellowable phenols

Test description:

Apparatus
Test papers
Control Test Samples
Perspiration Tester and pressure weight
Polythene film (BHT = 2,6 Di- tert- butyl -4-nitrophenol)
Adhesive Tape
Conditioned Oven

Specimen preparation
Cut specimen (max. 5 cm x 7,5 cm) out of the middle of the test fabric
Only 1 specimen per fabric is necessary for testing.
Test to be performed on fabrics containing synthetic fibers.

Test performing
• The test paper is folded in half on the longer axis.
• Insert the fabric specimen between the folded paper to create a test sample, follow the same
procedure to create a control test sample.
• The test sample is placed between 2 glass plates.
• A standard test package should consist of a maximum of 5 test samples plus 1 control sample,
each test sample should be separated by a glass plate.
• If less than 5 test samples are being run, then 7 glass plates should be used in the test package.
• The test package is firmly wrapped in 3 layers of BHT free (BHT = 2,6 Di- tert- butyl -4-nitrophenol)
polythene film and sealed with adhesive tape.
• Place the specimen into either Perspiration tester apparatus or Perspirometer apparatus
(either apparatus is acceptable)
*If using the Perspiration tester close the tester with an 8lb. weight
*If using the Perspirometer, close the tester with a 5Kg wt. pressure
• The package is placed into a preconditioned oven at 50°C +/- 3°C for 16 hours.
• The test is valid if the control fabric is yellow.
• Since the color may fade on certain substrates, assessment should be completed soon after the
package is opened.

Evaluation: The intensity of the yellow color is assessed by comparison with.

Grey scale for color staining

(ISO 105-A03/ BS 1006-A03)
AATCC 2

Minimum requirement: grade > 4 - 5

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 63 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

5.11 Colorfastness to LIght
ISO 105-B02 / 2 AATCC 16

Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: Determination of color fastness to light for dyed and printed fabrics
(Xenon arc fading lamp test)

Specimen preparation:

Cut a piece of test fabric of at least 45mm X 10mm and place onto cardstock. Place a piece of blue wool
scale onto another cardstock to be used as standard in evaluation. Cover a part of the fabric with the
stencil plate (larger opening first) by pressing it carefully onto the specimen to achieve clear lines between
illuminated and not illuminated parts.

Test performing

Place into the tester, expose the fabric (specimen and blue wool scale) to the Xenon light until the contrast
between illuminated and not illuminated part of section 4 of Blue-Wool scale meets grade 4-5 of Grey
scale. Exchange the stencil plate to the one with the smaller opening, cover the specimen carefully, place
it into the tester and continue exposure to light. Stop the process when the Blue-Wool scale type 6 has
achieved a color change difference of grade 4-5 of the Grey scale.

Specimens should be at room temperature before evaluation

The light-fastness of the specimen to evaluate should be compared to the part of the Blue -Wool scale
which shows the contrast of grade 4 of the grey scale between exposed and un-exposed parts to light.

. Grey scale for color change

DIN EN 20105-A02:1994
AATCC 1
Blue- Wool standard (SDC) type 1-8

Minimum requirements: grade > 4

Please note: The color shade is only allowed to lighten up, but not to change the shade into an other
direction (e.g. col. black change to col. brown).

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 64 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

5.12 Colorfastness to Drycleaning
AATCC 132 / ISO 105-D01

Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: Determination of the colorfastness for dyes and prints to commercial dry cleaning
with perchloroethylene.

Apparatus and materials:

• Launder-Ometer
• stainless steel containers of approximately 500ml capacity, which can be closed using solvent
resistant gaskets.
• 25 non-corrodible steel balls (diameter 6mm) per container
• multifiber (SDC = Society of Dyers and Colorists)
• Grey Scale
• Perchloroethylene
• Fume Hood

Specimen preparation
Cut one piece of 10cm x 4cm from the test fabric and sew it together with a piece 10cm x 4cm of multifiber
material SDC on one short end only
All sample and container preparation must be conducted inside a fume hood cabinet.

Test procedure
• The test temperature is 30°C ± 2 °C.
• Place the specimen and 25 steelballs into the stainless steel test container and add 200ml of
perchloroethylene.
• Put the container into the tester (Launder-Ometer) and start apparatus. Running time is 30 minutes at
required test temperature.
• Remove the sample from the container; place the specimen between layers of white absorbent paper
or white cotton cloth to remove surplus solvent.
• Hang or lay flat to dry the specimen and multifiber at a temperature not exceeding 60°C, take care that
the multifiber and test-fabric do not touch each other.
.

Evaluation:
grey scale for color staining
DIN 54002
ISO 105-A03
SNV 195806
AATCC 2
grey scale for color change
DIN 54001
ISO 105-A02
SNV 195805
AATCC 1

Minimum requirement:
Type of evaluation Requirement
Tested specimen color change grade > 4-5
Multifiber color staining grade > 4-5
Solvent color staining grade > 4

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 65 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

5.13 Chlorine resistance

Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: To check and confirm the color resistance to chlorine.of a dyed fabric

Apparatus:
Chlorine bleach, 5.2% active Chlorine (Clorox Brand Recommended)
Distilled water, small bottle with dropper

Procedure:
Condition the fabric (ASTM D 1776 using Standard Temperature Atmosphere). This atmosphere has a
relative humidity of 65% ± 2% and a temperature of 20°C ± 2°C. Condition fabric for 24 hours until
samples are in equilibrium with the specified atmosphere.

Cut one (1) specimen 2.5 in x 2.5 in.

TEST SOLUTION

1 part chlorine bleach

4 parts distilled water

Place the test specimen face up on a clean surface. Place one drop of solution on the testing fabric.
Allow the solution to soak into the fabric and let it dry.

After the fabric is dry, visually evaluate the test specimen for loss or change of shade.

Report the result as “Safe” or “Unsafe”

Safe - Where there is no color loss or change of shade.

Unsafe - Where there is color loss or change of shade.

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 66 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

6.01 Water Repellency - Spray Test
AATCC 22

Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: To determine the water repellency of fabrics

Apparatus: AATCC spray tester,

Distilled water
AATCC standard spray test rating pictures
Spirit (bubble) level

Specimen preparation

Cut 3 test specimen 20cm x 20cm, from different areas of the test fabric.
Conduct the test before washing and after wash & tumble dry 3 times (according to the wash method of
dimensional changes of fabrics in home laundry).
Condition both specimens 20°C ± 1°C and 65% ± 2% RH.
Height of spray nozzle to fabric surface dimension should be 150mm ± 2mm
Using a spirit (bubble) level, make sure the spray nozzle is centered and hanging perfectly vertical. Check
spray nozzle will allow water to flow freely and 250 ml distilled water will flow through within 25 to 30
seconds.

Test procedure

• Fasten the specimen, face side up securely in the metal hoop so it has a wrinkle free surface.
• The hoop is placed on the stand of the tester so that the fabric center position spray pattern, coincides
with the center of the hoop.
• Most fabrics specimens should have hoop placed on the stand with the warp direction vertical to the
flow of the water. In the case of twills or fabric of ribbed construction, the hoop should be placed on
the stand with the ribs diagonal to flow of the water.
• Pour 250 ml of distilled water (25°C ± 1°C ) into the funnel of the tester and allow to spray onto the
test specimen.
• Upon completion, the hoop is taken by one edge and the opposite edge tapped swiftly once against a
solid object with the fabric front facing the object.

Evaluation:
After tapping, the wet or spotted pattern is compared with the spray test rating chart

Chart grading scale (based on ISO ratings):

Minimum requirements:
All fabric types with water repellency

Before wash: grade > 5

After 3 wash/dry: grade > 4

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 67 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

6.02 Water Resistance
AATCC 127

Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: To determine the water resistance of fabrics

Test description:

a) Apparatus:
Automatic electronically controlled water pressure machine or the Suter water column tester

b) Specimen preparation:

Cut 3 specimens of fabric out of separate areas of the test yardage for before wash testing – cut
each piece large enough to easily cover the open diameter of apparatus
- condition the specimen to 20°C ± 2° and 65% ± 2% relative humidity.
Cut another piece of fabric, large enough to easily get 3 specimen tests (each specimen will need
to cover the open diameter of apparatus) – this piece is for the after wash testing.
Conduct the test on the samples before wash and after 3 times washed and dried specimens,
according to the wash method of dimensional changes of fabrics in home laundry AATCC 135.

c) Test performing:

Automatic electronic water pressure machine-

Make sure that the pressure chamber is properly filled with water. Mount the specimen
onto the tester with the face touching the water. Close the clamps and start the machine
Suter water column tester
Lay the test specimen over the lower open plate with face of fabric facing upwards, clamp
the upper plate down holding the specimen. Turn switch to raise the hydrostatic head.
-Conduct the test on the unwashed specimen as well as, the 3 times washed and dried
specimens

d) Evaluation:
The test will be evaluated on the amount of water pressure necessary to push three drops of
water through the surface of the specimen.
Take the reading in mm, and report the number.

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 68 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

6.02 Water Resistance
AATCC 127

Quality Manual - Apparel

Minimum requirements:
If not mentioned differently in the tech pack fabric specification:

Automatic electronic water pressure machine-

After wash test

Before wash test
(3 times wash & Dry)
Auto electronic machine Auto electronic machine
windbreaker fabric > 450 mm - 600 mm > 300 mm

waterproof fabric > 1500 mm > 1200 mm

Suter water column tester –

After wash test

Before wash test
(3 times wash & Dry)
Water column (suter) Water column (suter)
windbreaker fabric > 450 mm - 600 mm > 300 mm
N/A N/A
waterproof fabric (use auto electronic (use auto electronic water
water pressure machine) pressure machine)

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 69 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

6.03 Rain Test
AATCC 35
Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: This method is applicable to any fabric, which may or may not have been given a
water - resistant or water-repellent finish. It measures the resistance of fabrics to the penetration
of water by impact to predict the probable rain penetration resistance of fabrics.

Test description:

b) Apparatus and materials

AATCC Rain Tester
white AATCC Textile Blotting Paper
water at 27±1° C
Laboratory balance accurate to ± 0,1g

c) Sample preparation
3 - 12” X 18” inch test specimens are cut from the fabric. The specimen should be
conditioned in an
atmosphere of 65% ± 2% rel. humidity and 21 ± 1 °C for at least 4 hours.

c) Procedure
• Measure the weight of textile blotting paper and record weight amount.
• Place the test specimen flat on a flat surface (face side down).
• Place the weighed 5” X 8” inch standard blotter in the center of the test specimen.
Wrap the edges and ends of fabric test specimen around the blotter paper being
careful that water cannot get through from any area around the edges.
• Lift the wrapped specimen carefully and place on the clamped specimen holder with the
folded edges
next to the holder and the smooth side to the outside.
• Turn the rain tester on with water level at 3 feet; this level must be maintained during the
entire test time.
• Mount the assembly in a vertical, rigid support frame positioned to bring the specimen into the
center
portion of the spray at a distance of 12 inch from the face of the spray nozzle.
• A horizontal water spray is directed against the specimen and is allowed to continue for a
period of 5 minutes.
• At the end of the 5 minute period the blotter is carefully removed and quickly re-weighed,
be careful to have dry hands and no water from the specimen can affect the weight of the
blotter.
• Take the difference of before test weight to after test weight as the amount of weight to record
• A minimum of 3 specimens from each fabric or treatment should be tested, the average of all
three is evaluated and recorded.
• Conduct the test before washing as well as after 3 times wash & dry,
according to the wash method of dimensional change of fabrics in home laundry

c) Evaluation
The water penetration is indicated by the increase in weight of the blotter during the 5 minutes
test period. The average of 3 test specimens is reported.

Minimum requirement:
The water penetration (weight of blotter paper) < 1 gm.

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 70 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

6.04 Water Absorbency of Fabrics

Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: To determine the fabric's ability to transport water from the inside to the outside of the
fabric

Limitation:
This test is not intended to give an absolute measurement of the fabric's
tendency to absorb water. Other factors such as construction, fiber type, dyes or finishing agents
also influence fabric absorbency. This test can provide a rough index of fabric absorbency.
Generally, the lower the rating, the better the absorbency properties of the fabric. This test is
particularly applicable when comparing various finishes on a given fabric.

Principle:
Drops of water are placed on the fabric inside (backside of fabric) and the time it takes for the
drops to be absorbed and spread to the fabric surface is measured. The absorbency rating is
calculated by obtaining 5 values, deleting the high and low values, and averaging the remaining 3
values.
Conduct the tests before wash, after 3,5 and 10 wash & dry cycles (according to the wash method
of dimensional changes of fabrics in home laundry).

Apparatus:
1. a 7,5 cm ( 3 inch) medicine dropper or dropper pipette
2. beaker of Distilled water at room temperature approximately 20°C
3. chronometer (or timer)

Test samples:
One test sample approximately 20 x 20 cm is needed

Test procedure:

1) Place the test sample flat on a smooth, horizontal surface

2) With the dropper held 1 cm above the sample, place one drop of water on the back side of
sample fabric and start timer
3) Observe the drop, and stop the timer when the drop is absorbed into the fabric. If the drop
has not been absorbed in 30 seconds, stop the timer and record -no absorbency - as the
value. Absorption has occurred when the drop has penetrated into the fabric.
4) Repeat the test in 4 additional locations an the test sample in order to achieve the 5 values

Note: When evaluating open weave or thin fabrics, conduct the test on at least two layers of the
fabric. Otherwise, the liquid may wet the underlying surface, not the actual test fabric and cause
confusion in the reading of the results.

Evaluation:

1) The testing has to be conducted on an original fabric sample

2) The durability samples are tested after the completion of 3, 5 and 10 continuous washes and
tumble-dry cycles.

Requirement for good water absorbency < 2 seconds

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 71 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

6.06 Water Vapor Permeability
JIS L 1099 A1
Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: To determine the water vapor permeability of coated materials through which the
passage of water vapor may be important. This method is used for hydrophobic coatings or high -
density woven fabrics

Apparatus and material

• Conditioning cabinet, capable of circulating the air, kept on the specific temperature 40°C ±
0,6°C and relative humidity 90% ± 2%, at wind speed of approximately 0,5 m/s².
• Moisture absorption chemical: Anhydrous calcium chloride in the form of small lumps that will
pass a no.8 sieve (2,36 mm), and free of fines that will pass a no. 30 sieve (600 µm). It shall
be dried (over night) at 200°C before use.
• Chemical balance: The chemical balance, capable of weighing the mass of test body to the
nearest of 1 mg.
• Water vapor permeability cup is non permeable for water vapor and free from corrosion, the
cup aperture should have a minimum of 7 cm diameter

Test procedure:

Cut out of the fabric from different areas 3 samples, 2 cm wider in diameter than the cup
opening. Put the moisture absorption agent into the cup, preliminarily warmed to appr. 40°C up
to the position of appr. 3 mm from the upper end of the cup. Direct the surface of the test piece
towards the moisture absorption agent side, place so as to be concentric circle to the water
vapor permeable cup. Fix the fabric sample by wing nut. Further seal the equipped face side
with vinyl adhesive tape and take it as the test body. Put this test body into the conditioning
cabinet in which the air at 40 ± 2°C, 90 ± 5% RH . After 1 hour take out the test body and
immediately measure the mass m1 (mg). Next again enter this test body into conditioning
cabinet, after 1 hour take it out and immediately measure the mass m2 (mg)

calculation:

Obtain the water vapor permeability according to the following formula, and express by average
value of three times (until integer place).

WVP = (m2-m1) / (A x t)

WVP : water vapor permeability (g / m² x h)

A: water vapor permeable area (m²)
t : time (h)

minimum requirement for breathable coating → 3000 g/m²/24h

minimum requirement for breathable membrane → 5000 g/m²/24h

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 72 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

6.07 Determination of Drying Time

Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: To determine how fast the fabric can transform water into vapor.

Test description:

Equipment:
- conditioned room 20°C ± 2°C / 65% ±2%
th
- digital scale with an accuracy of 1/100 gram
- 7,5 cm (3 inch) medicine dropper or dropper pipette
- distilled water drop should be a consistent weight over all samples within 2/100th of a gram
- chronometer (timer)

Test samples
The test sample should have a consistent weight for all test samples and sized 100 cm2 (use
sample cutter of m²-weight)
The test sample has to be dried and then conditioned (20°C ± 2°C / 65% RH ± 2%) for at least 2
hours.
The dry weight of the sample after conditioning must be recorded

Test procedure

- the test should be conducted in an conditioned room, 20°C, 65% RH

- place the sample on the scale, measure and record the weight
- remove the fabric sample from the scale
- place a drop of distilled water on the scale, remembering to keep drop weight consistent over
all tests
- measure and record the weight of the water drop
- immediately place the fabric (back side down next to water) sample gently on the drop. Be
sure to center the fabric on the drop
- start the chronometer (or timer)
- at 2 minutes intervals, record weight until the weight has returned to the original fabric sample
weight
- graph data with the weight on the y axis and the time on the x axis

The durability of the moisture transport mechanism

Wash and tumble-dry the test fabric 3, 5 and 10 times. Use the washing procedure as described
in Fila 4.02 and Fila 4.03.
Repeat the testing as described above.

Requirement:
Before and after 3, 5 & 10 times wash and dry

< 30 minutes reaching a wt. of 0.0gms.

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 73 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

6.08 Air Permeability of Fabrics
ISO EN 9237 (110 Pa)
Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: This method covers the measurement of the air permeability of textile fabrics

Apparatus and material

Air permeability tester ( Textest FX 3300) consisting of the following:

• Test Head that provides a circular test area of 38 cm²
• Clamping system to secure the test specimens of different thickness under a force of at least
50 ± 5 N to the test head ; without distortion and minimal edge leakage underneath the test
specimen
• A suitable means to minimize the edge leakage (note: air leakage influence the test result)
• Means for drawing a steady flow of air perpendicularly through the test area and for adjusting
the airflow rate.
• Pressure gage or manometer
• Flow-meter to measure the air velocity through the test area in mm/s
• Calibration plate with a known air permeability test pressure at the prescribed test pressure
differential to verify the apparatus

Test procedure:

The measurements can be taken directly on the fabric, 5 measurements across the fabric width
are required.
Ensure the specimens are free of folds, creases or wrinkles.
Pre-condition the fabric in the standard atmosphere in which the testing is to be performed.
Place the fabric onto the test head of the test instrument, and perform the test as specified in the
manufacturer's operating instruction.

Evaluation:

Report the average result (mm/s) of 5 measurements.

windproof. 0 - 10 mm / s

wind repellent: 10 - 50 mm / s

no wind protection: > 50 mm / s

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 74 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

7.01 Garment Wash

Quality Manual - Apparel

Purpose: Determination of dimensional changes and appearance of woven and knitted garments
after home laundering

Principle:
This test is intended to give an overall view of durability and stability of a garment under washing
conditions, as would be used and seen by the consumer.
Each garment test should be tested according to the (order region) or selling region.

Apparatus and Materials:

• automatic front loading washing machine, European style, water ratio : loading 5:1
• automatic top loading washing machine, USA (Kenmore) small load liqour ratio 48L
• automatic tumble dryer
• facilities for line drying
• ECE or AATCC Standard Reference Detergent or regular wash detergent (without Optical
Brightners)
• ballast of bleached CO sheeting or single jersey 180g/m² ( size 1 x 1y hemmed pieces) or
ballast of 100% Polyester Dummys -white (size each 14” X 14”) for dummy load to achieve
the described machine loading.
• indelible ink marking pen for use with suitable rule, tape, marking template or other marking
device
• measuring device
• tape or rule calibrated in millimeters
• scale with at least 5 kg

Test description

a) Sample preparation
Lay the garment flat, and without any tension on a table.
Mark the measurement points in length and width direction according to the article description.
Record the measurements between the benchmarks according to the article description before
washing.

b) Test performing
Wash the specimen in a European washing machine or Wascator being adjusted to an European
washing machine.
If the specimen is being sold in the US region wash the specimen in a top loading basic Kenmore
washing machine.
Use the washing temperature and cycle as specified in the care label of the garment.

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 75 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

7.01 Garment Wash

Quality Manual - Apparel

-For washing –

-Using Front loading machine-

Add 50g of standard ECE detergent or washing detergent for pre-washing cycle and 50g for main
-cycle. Add the garment and enough ballast to make sure that at least 70% of the machine filling
is guaranteed. Remove the test wash load immediately after the final spin cycle and hang each
garment on a hanger.

-Using Top loading machine-

Add sufficient standard household detergent (e.g. Tide, Cheer) measuring 2 gram for every liter of
water.
Example: for a wash with 48L of water add 96gm. detergent.
Add enough ballast to make a 2.0 kg ± .1kg load.

- For Drying -
For Europe orders, allow the garments to hang in still air at room temperature until dry.For USA
orders tumble dry the garments according to the care label.
After drying the garments, lay each of them without tension on a flat, horizontal table. Measure
and record the distance between the benchmarks.

Shrinkage Evaluation:

Measurement before wash - measurement after washing

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- X 100 = shrinkage in %
measurement before washing

less than 100% = shrinkage (note this with ‘ - ‘ sign )

more than 100% = extension (note this with ‘+’ sign )

Appearance
Check the garment carefully after washing / drying for:
• discoloration (color change)
• color staining
• pilling (fuzziness), outside as well as inside
• side seam twist
• seam crinkling
• embroidery / print

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 76 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

7.01 Garment Wash

Quality Manual - Apparel

Test Standards: Line Dry

Minimum requirements

KNITS WOVENS RIB RIB

All Knit Fabric All Woven Fabric (As Body Fabric) (As Body Fabric)
Construction Construction Without Elastane With
Elastane

Fabric Content Standard Standard Standard Standard

Properties (Length & Width) (Length & Width) (Length & Width (Length & Width

100% Natural (+/- 5%) x (+/- 5%) (+/- 3%) x (+/- 3%) (+3/-5%) x (+0/-5%) (+0/-5%) x (+0/-5%)
100% Natural
Fibers max max max max

Blends
(Chief Value (+/- 5%) x (+/- 5%) (+/- 3%) x (+/- 3%) (+0/-5%) x (+0/-5%) (+0/-5%) x (+0/-5%)
> 50% Natural
Natural) max max max max

100% Synthetic
(+/- 3%) x (+/- 3%) (+/- 2%) x (+/- 2%) (+0%/-3%) x (+0/-3%) (+0/-3%) x (+0/-3%)
100% Synthetic
max max max max

Blends
(Chief Value (+/- 3%) x (+/- 3%) (+/- 2%) x (+/- 2%) (+0%/-3%) x (+0/-3%) (+0/-3%) x (+0/-3%)
> 50% Synthetic
Synthetic) max max max max

(+0/-8%) x (+0/-8%)
Ribs Used as Trim N/A N/A N/A
max

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 77 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

7.01 Garment Wash

Quality Manual - Apparel

Test Standards: Tumble Dry
Minimum requirements

KNITS WOVENS RIB RIB

All Knit Fabric All Woven Fabric (As Body Fabric)
(AsBodyFabric)
Construction Construction WithoutElastane
WithElastane

Content Standard Standard Standard Standard

Fabric Properties
(Length & Width) (Length & Width) (Length & Width) (Length & Width)

100% Natural Fibers 100% Natural (+ 5/ - 8%) x (+ 5 / - 8%) (+/- 5%) x (+/- 5%) (+3/- 8%) x (+0/- 8%) (+0/-8%) x (+0/-8%)
max max max max

Blends
> 50% Natural (+ 5/ - 8%) x (+ 5 / - 8%) (+/- 5%) x (+/- 5%) (+3/- 8%) x (+0/- 8%) (+0/-8%) x (+0/-8%)
(Chief Value Natural)
max max max max

100% Synthetic
100% Synthetic (+/- 4%) x (+/- 4%) (+/- 3%) x (+/- 3%) (+3/- 4%) x (+0/- 4%) (+0/-4%) x (+0/-4%)
max max max max

Blends
> 50% Synthetic (+ 5 / - 7%) x (+ 5 / - 7%) (+/- 3%) x (+/- 3%) (+3/- 7%) x (+3/ -7%) (+0/-7%) x (+0/-7%)
(Chief Value Synthetic)
max max max max

Ribs USED AS TRIM (+3/- 12%) x (+0/- 8%) N/A N/A N/A
max

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 78 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

Purpose: Determination of dimensional changes and appearance of woven and knits

Apparatus and Materials:

• tub, big enough so that the garment can fit loose in (~ 30 L )

• the water level in the tube should be high enough so that the garment is well covered
• ECE or AATCC detergent
• detergent ratio 0,08%
• indelible ink marking pen for use with suitable rule, tape, marking template or other marking
device
• measuring device in millimeter or inches
• scale with at least 2000g

Test description

a) Sample preparation:

Lay the garment flat, and without any tension on a table.

Mark the measurement points in length and width direction according to the article description.
Record the measurements between the benchmarks according to the article description before
washing.

b) Test performing:

• prepare the washing solution, for smaller garments like T-shirts ~15L, for thicker sweaters
~ 20L
• soak the specimen into the washing liquid (hand warm to cold),
• leave it there for 10 min,
• press the specimen 10 times gently by hand
• leave the garment for another 5 min in the washing solution
• press the specimen again 5 times gently by hand
• remove the washing liquid from the tub
• refill the tub with clear water to rinse the garment
• place the garment in the water and press gently,
• repeat this procedure until the rinse-water in the tub is clear
• remove the water from the tub
• press the water out off the garment ( do not wring)
• either roll the garment in a towel to get the water out, or do a gentle spin -dry not more than
800 turns/min for 1 min.
• lay the garment flat on a table, gently adjust to form, let it dry
• after drying, measure and record the distance between the benchmarks.

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 79 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

Shrinkage Evaluation:

measurement before washing - measurement after washing

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- x 100 = shrinkage in %
measurement before washing

less than 100% = shrinkage (note this with ‘ - ‘ sign )

more than 100% = extension (note this with ‘+’ sign )

Appearance

Check the garment carefully after washing and drying for:

• discoloration (color change)

• color staining
• pilling (fuzziness), outside as well as inside
• side seam twist
• seam crinkling
• embroidery / print

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 80 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

Minimum requirements

Test Standards: Lay flat to Dry

Minimum requirements

KNITS WOVENS RIB RIB

All Knit Fabric All Woven Fabric (As Body Fabric) (As Body Fabric)
Construction Construction Without Elastane With
Elastane

Fabric Content Standard Standard Standard Standard

Properties (Length & Width) (Length & Width) (Length & Width (Length & Width

100% Natural (+/- 5%) x (+/- 5%) (+/- 2%) x (+/- 2%) (+3/-5%) x (+0/-5%) (+0/-5%) x (+0/-5%)
100% Natural
Fibers max max max max

Blends
(Chief Value (+/- 5%) x (+/- 5%) (+/- 2%) x (+/- 2%) (+0/-5%) x (+0/-5%) (+0/-5%) x (+0/-5%)
> 50% Natural
Natural) max max max max

100% Synthetic
(+/- 2%) x (+/- 2%) (+/- 2%) x (+/- 2%) (+0%/-3%) x (+0/-3%) (+0/-3%) x (+0/-3%)
100% Synthetic
max max max max

Blends
(Chief Value (+/- 2%) x (+/- 2%) (+/- 2%) x (+/- 2%) (+0%/-3%) x (+0/-3%) (+0/-3%) x (+0/-3%)
> 50% Synthetic
Synthetic) max max max max

(+0/-8%) x (+0/-8%)
max
N/A
Ribs Used as Trim N/A N/A

16.07.2007 Version 01 Page 81 Test Proc. Apparel / Accessories

 MANDATORY KNIT FABRIC TESTS - USA - INTL. - JAPAN

Knit Fabrics
Develop 1st Bulk Reorder
chapt. Tests Method based on: Requirements Remarks testing Testing Testing
REQUIRED PHYSICAL TESTS
4.01 Flammability CFR part 1610 / class 1 pass X X
4.02 Dimensional Changes in laundry (line dry) DIN 53892 line dry Please review shrinkage chart (see method) For INTL./ JAPAN orders X X X
4.03 Dimensional Changes in laundry (tumble dry) AATCC 135/95 tumbledry Please review shrinkage chart (see method) For USA orders X X X
4.04 Skewness (fabric twist)* AATCC 179/95 < 5% X X X
4.07 Pilling ASTM D 3512-96 (k1) course > 3; (k2) regular > 3; (k3) micro > 4- (see method) martindale rating scale X X
4.19 Fabric Weight g/m² ISO 3801 /ASTM D3776 +/-5% X X X
4.23 Thread count ASTM D3775 / ASTM D 3887 +/ -5% X X
4.21 Cuttable Width Fila method +/-5% X X
Test to be performed based on specific fabric requirements
4.05 Heat test for fabrics Fila method shrinkage / color change shrinkage < 2% / color Change > 4-5 test on synthetics / TTC X X
4.08 Snagging* ICI method 3600 turns >4 test synthetic out of fil.yarn X X
4.09 Bursting Strength DIN 53861 (50cm²) / ASTM D3786 depends on enduse of fabric (see method) X
4.10 Tearing/Tensile Strength Strip Meth. DIN EN ISO 13934-1 warp > 800N (180 lb.) weft > 600N (135 lb.) X
4.16 Abrasion Resistance DIN 53863 depends on fabric end use (see method) X
4.20 Elongation /elastic force* - elastane fabrics Dupont method depends on fabric end use (see method) manual measurement X X
4.12 Elongation / elastic Force Zwick depends on fabric end use (see method) either 4.12 or 4.27 are acceptable methods X X
4.27 Elongation /elastic force c-clamp Zwick depends on fabric end use (see method) either 4.12 or 4.27 are acceptable methods X X
6.06 Water Vapor Permeability JIS L1099 A1 / A2 depends on fabric spec. (see method) X
6.07 Determination of Drying Time Fila method < 30 minutes through 10x washes / Dry X
w -proof 0 - 10 mm/s, w.- repellent 10 - 50 mm/s,
6.08 Air Permeability ISO 9237 no protect. > 50mm/s X
6.04 Water Absorbency of Fabrics Fila method < 2 seconds X X
6.01 Water Repellency AATCC 22 before wash > 5 / after wash 3x > 4 X X
6.02 Water Resistance AATCC 127 depends on fabric (see method) X X
6.03 Rain Test AATCC 35 < 1 gram H20 gain X X
REQUIRED COLOR FASTNESS TESTS
5.01 Washing Fastness ISO 105 C06 / AATCC 61 staining > 4-0; color change > 4-5; cross stain > 4-5 *cross staining X X X
5.02 Perspiration ISO 105 -E04 staining > 4-0; color change > 4-5 X X
5.03 Water ISO 105- E01/ AATCC 107 staining > 4-0; color change > 4-5 X X
5.11 Colorfastness to Light (modified) ISO 105 B02 / AATCC 16 color change > 4-0 X X
5.04 Crocking ISO 105x12 / AATCC 8 dry: > 4-0 / wet: > 3-0 X X X
5.13 Chlorine test Fila method safe/unsafe for USA orders; for label reference X
5.07 Chlor. Water (light) JIS-L 0884 color change > 3-4 for Japan order X X
Test to be performed based on specific fabric requirements
5.09 Color migration of fabrics JIS-L 0879 / 75 staining > 4-5 / color change > 4-5 synthetics / TTC X X
5.10 Phenolic Yellowing Courtaulds test staining > 4-5 Only Synthetic & Blends (white and pastel) X X X
5.12 Dry Cleaning Fastness ISO 105-D01/ AATCC 132 Please review chart (see method) color stain./ color change X
5.06 Chlorinated Water (swimwear) ISO 105-E03 color change > 4-0 color change X X
5.08 Colorfastness to Sea Water DIN ISO 105 E02 Staining > 4-0 color change > 4-0 color stain / color change X X

all environmental and health related tests follow the Health & Environmental tests and Requirements
*for detailed explanation please refer to the Fila test procedures

For development fabric submission 3 yards are requested, together with the completely filled in ID specification
* for detailed explanation please refer to the test guidelines by Chapter number

Apparel Materials Quality Manual - May,2007

 MANDATORY WOVEN FABRIC TESTS - USA - INTL. - JAPAN

Woven Fabrics
Develop 1st Bulk Reorder
chapt. Tests Method based on: Requirements Remarks testing Testing Testing

REQUIRED PHYSICAL TESTS

4.01 Flammability CFR part 1610 / class 1 pass X X
4.02 Dimensional Changes in laundry (line dry) DIN 53892 line dry Please review shrinkage chart (see method) INTL./ JAPAN X X X
4.03 Dimensional Changes in laundry (tumble dry) AATCC 135/95 tumbledry Please review shrinkage chart (see method) USA X X X
4.04 Skewness (fabric twist)* AATCC 179/95 <2% X X X
4.07 Pilling ASTM D 3512-96 > 4 (see method) ASTM rating scale X X
4.19 Fabric Weight g/m² ISO 3801 /ASTM D3776 +/-5% X X X
4.23 Thread count ASTM D3775 / ASTM D 3887 +/- 5% X X
4.21 Cuttable Width Fila method +/-5% X X
4.13 Seam Slippage BS 3320/ASTM D434 warp > 200N (44lb) ; weft > 200N (44lb.) X
4.14 Tear Growth Resistance DIN EN ISO 13937-2 warp > 10N (3lb); weft > 10N (3lb.) X
4.11 Tearing/Tensile Strength (Grab) DIN EN ISO 13934-2/ ASTM D2261 warp > 250N (56 lb); weft > 250N (56 lb.) not for rugby X
4.16 Abrasion Resistance DIN 53863 depends on fabric end use (see method) X
Test to be performed based on specific fabric requirements
4.05 Heat test for fabrics Fila method shrinkage / color change shrinkage < 2% / color Change > 4-5 test on synthetics / TTC X X
4.08 Snagging* ICI method 3600 turns >4 test synthetic out of fil.yarn X X
4.10 Tearing/Tensile Strength Strip Meth. DIN EN ISO 13934-1 warp > 800N (180 lb.) weft > 600N (135 lb.) for rugby only X
4.12 Elongation / elastic Force Zwick depends on fabric end use (see method) either 4.12 or 4.27 are acceptable methods X X
4.20 Elongation /elastic force* - elastane fabrics Dupont method depends on fabric end use (see method) manual measurement X X
4.27 Elongation /elastic force c-clamp Zwick depends on fabric end use (see method) either 4.12 or 4.27 are acceptable methods X X
6.06 Water Vapor Permeability JIS L1099 A1 / A2 depends on fabric spec. (see method) X
6.07 Determination of Drying Time Fila method < 30 minutes through 10x wash / dry X
w -proof 0 - 10 mm/s, w.- repellent 10 - 50 mm/s,
6.08 Air Permeability ISO 9237 no protect. > 50mm/s X
6.04 Water Absorbency of Fabrics Fila method < 5 seconds X X
6.01 Water Repellency AATCC 22 before wash > 5 / after wash 3x > 4 windbreaker / rainwear X X
6.02 Water Resistance AATCC 127 depends on fabric (see method) windbreaker / rainwear X X
6.03 Rain Test AATCC 35 < 1 gram H20 gain for USA orders only X X X
REQUIRED COLOR FASTNESS TESTS
5.01 Washing Fastness ISO 105 C06 / AATCC 61 staining > 4-0; color change > 4-5; cross stain > 4-5 *cross staining X X X
5.02 Perspiration ISO 105 -E04 staining > 4-0; color change > 4-5 X X
5.03 Water ISO 105- E01/ AATCC 107 staining > 4-0; color change > 4-5 X X
5.11 Colorfastness to Light (modified) ISO 105 B02 / AATCC 16 color change > 4-0 X X
5.04 Crocking ISO 105x12 / AATCC 8 dry: > 4-0 / wet: > 3-0 X X X
5.13 Chlorine test Fila method safe/unsafe for USA orders; for label reference X
5.07 Chlor. Water (light) JIS-L 0884 color change > 3-4 for Japan orders X X
Tests to be performed based on specific fabric requirements
5.09 Color migration of fabrics JIS-L 0879 / 75 staining > 4-5 / color change > 4-5 synthetics / TTC X X
5.10 Phenolic Yellowing Courtauldstest staining > 4-5 Only Synthetic & Blends (white and pastel) X X X
5.12 Dry Cleaning Fastness ISO 105-D01/ AATCC 132 Please review chart (see method) color stain / color change X
5.06 Chlorinated Water (swimwear) ISO 105-E03 color change > 4-0 color change X X
5.08 Colorfastness to Sea Water DIN ISO 105 E02 Staining > 4-0 color change > 4-0 color stain / color change X X

all environmental and health related tests follow the Health & Environmental tests and Requirements
*for detailed explanation please refer to the Fila test procedures

For development fabric submissions 3 yards are requested; together with the completely filled in ID specification
* for detailed explanation please refer to the test guidelines by Chapter number Apparel Materials Quality Manual - May,2007