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754 views54 pagesFineScale Modeler 1999-01 PDF
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© © All Rights Reserved
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/ 54
Pa ee ety
reece Bepyimees eon namo
an Trek’s ne ee
PR UULLRS SC co cg
How to build shadow-box dioramas
Building a better 1/28 scale Fokker D.VII WI 53187. Visit us on the World Wide Web at http:/Avww.finescale.com. For subscriptions, call 800-446-5489,
January 1999 Vol. 17, No. 1
Cover Story
52 “Star Trek” USS Defiant | IGHTINC
Bringing the “Deep Space Nine” defender to life. By Mare King
Cover photo by Jim Forbes
Features
28 Showcase PACIFIC-THEATER AMTANK
FSM looks at Frank Wood's Marine LVT(A)-1 landing-vehicle diorama
30 Fixing a Fokker WORLD WAR I AIRCRAFT
Fixing Revell-Monogram’s 1/28 scale D.VII. By Frank Mitchell
36 Shadow-box dioramas ADVANCED RESULTS
Construction techniques for first-class displays. By Craig Vaple
48 Modeling the original X-15 CONVERSION
Backdating Monogram’s 1/72 scale X-15A-2. By Christopher Crofeot
56 Vietnam A-1 Skyraider MiG killers RESEARCH DATA
The stories ~ and the colors ~ of three unlikely victors. By Wayne Mutza
Departments
6 Editor's Page
8 Scale Talk
10 New Products
16 Workbench Reviews
Academy F-86F Sabre
Minicraft Constellation
Lindberg Dodge Dakota
MPM Grumman
Tamiya FAU-1A/D Corsair
ICM Luck
Eduard Spitfire Mk. 21
42 Reader Gallery
60 Industry Update
64 Reader Tips
66 Coming Events
70 New Kit Report
72 Questions & Answers
75 Classified Marketplace
28 Hobby Shop Directory
81 Index of Advertisers
82 Next Issue January 1999 Vol. 17 No.1
tr BOM HAYDEN
MATTHEW W. USHER
An Distr LAWRENCE O, LUSER.
herr KELLIE JAEGER, ROBERT WEGNER
JIM FORBES, WILLIAM ZURACK
ADVERTISING SALES (888-558-1548)
Finescats
KE
MoRELER uss
published 10°
rade Creer FO. Box 1012
Fights ‘escrved. Tite fe registred as trad
Invpar or in whole without written pom
riage paid at Waukesha
changes to FINESCALE MODELER, Kali
1612, Wauikesha, WE 5187-1612.
SUBSCRIPTION RATES, US. 10, usu
Ba, 20 uae, $705, 20 inven, $1015
TUSGO1.00, 30 issues
oduct Agreement Na
USE ob
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"
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Firt Class, add. $205r; Canadian Alt add
LETTERS, NEWS RELEASES, AND_ NEW:
PRODUCT INFORMATION are aecpted. a0
fe contributions ta FINESCALE MODEL
tion rights unless otherwise agreed, Instruction
Forni features, ptegraphn and daw
Editor’sPage
Who appreciates fine modeling?
AVE YOU EVER BEEN DISAP-
POINTED that most of the people
you show your models to don't seem to
appreciate them? I sure have, dating back
more than 30 years to when family and
friends didn’t seem inspired in the least
when I showed them my latest creations.
‘Three decades is a long time to think
about something, and over those years I've
concluded that non-modelers aren't being
rade or insensitive when they fail to express their appreciation
for what we produce. Fact is, because they don't share our
enthusiasm for the hobby, it’s hard for them to understand how
our models differ from, say, a model they can buy, ready-made,
at a toy store.
And because modeling is an extremely personal hobby, even
fellow modelers can have trouble seeing just how special our lat-
st achievement is (this includes contest judges). After all, only
the builder — you~ knows what you were trying to achieve
when you started, so only you can judge how well it came out.
Along the same lines, only you know whether your latest model
is better than what you've built before
Perhaps the ultimate proof of my point is hidden detail.
‘Today's kits often include molded-in details that become diffi
cult or downright impossible to see when the model is assem-
bled, yet most of us install the parts, and even paint them. If our
only motivation in building were to impress others, we'd consid-
er hidden detail ridiculous, but I've talked to dozens of modelers
who have proudly told me “You can't see it now that the model
is finished, but there’s a completely detailed engine in there!”
Your fellow modelers ~ the people around the world who read
this magazine ~ are best equipped to appreciate your work, and
they do. But make sure, first and foremost, that you sit back and
enjoy your own results. Nice work!
i)
Editor COMBAT MODELS
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DEALER INQUIRIES INVITED.
8 FineScale Modeler Jssisry 19)
ScaleTalk
The readers’ page
High incidence of droop
Pos inset Seni mode
onstructed by H. Scott Edwards,
(November 1998 FSM), but there's a mis”
conception concerning apparent wing
anhedral, The B-52 wing was built fla; no
dihedral, no anhedral. It was set at an
angle of 7 degrees of incidence relative 9
the horizontal reference line of the fuse~
lage. This rotated the wing tip downward
so that it was closer to the ground than
the wing root, The thin, flexible wing
drooped from its own weight, which also
contributes tothe appearance of anhedrl,
So why vas so much incidence used in
the fist place? The aft landing gea isso
far back of the balance point that it’s
impossible to rotate the airplane on take-
off as with a tricycle-gear plane like a 707
The wing is set to produce liftoff withthe
fuselage in a level position, then a climb
angle is established with up elevator or
stabilizer tim, On takeoff, the outer por
tion of the wings lift and fly long before
the est of the plane. If my memory serves
ime, the wing tips can travel up as much as
27 and down 13°. Also, the outrigger gear
does not touch the ground when an
unloaded B-52 is on the ramp, so Mr.
Edwards would have been correct to let
them hang i he had wished to-do so.
T started with Boeing in 1950 and
worked on the XB-S2 in 1951 and ’52. 1
saw the first B-52 takeoff and ie was still
going strong when I retited in August.
~ Robert Parks, Everett, Wasbington
In the BUFF
compliments to H. Scott
IMB iietiaul v3
His scratchbuilding efforts are amazing
My years in the Strategic Air Command
force me to comm
ent on a few points
HOWTO REACH FSM
[Maik Kalmbach Publishing Co, 21027 Cross-
‘ads Circle PO. Bax 1613, Waukesha, WI
S3i87-1612
Customer service (consumes products sub-
scriptions ad renewals: 800-446-5489,
‘wedkdays 830 am. t0S pm. CT. Fax: 414-
‘}96-1615. E-mail: customnerserice@kal
bacheom
ising and dealer orders: $88-558-1544,
‘weekdays 30 a.m. t95 pam CT: outside the
US TATE 796-8776: Faw 414-796-0126
Advertsing e-mail
Dealer Sales e-mail
inesale-som
rvalesehkalmbach com
small thayden@tinewale-com
The launcher he used is actually
SRAM rotary launcher and not a CSRL,
which is a much lager launcher and takes
up the entire bomb bay. Ako, it did not
start coming into the fleet until the late
‘805, nd then only at B-S2H bases. His,
“elip-in” is a beautifl piece of work, but
the real thing didet have the large support
beams on its lower part. The lower
weapons were suspended by bomb racks
attached to the center of the clip and held
in place by an interesting arrangement of
svray braces. Because ofthis, a clip-in had
to have two weapons on the upper sta
tions to be able to carry two weapons on
the lower stations. The elip-in was almost
always loaded with four weapons. Please
excuse my nit-picking ~ it one of the
heritages of SAC
~ e-mail from Hank Drain
Save the Titanic
Three hank Sor Andi and al
the other model makers for their kind
comments about building the model for
the movie “Titanic!” (September 1998
FSM). I also wanted to let them know
that some of the mistakes they noted were
intentional. The third stack whistle was
‘one of them. Also, there ate nine types of
portholes on the real Titanic, we used only
1g. When we build for
the motion pictures, we build the models
five for cost savin
for the director and producer of the film,
The 7 American
tour of Paramount theme parks and will
fanic is on a North
be “prepped” for a world tour later this
year I hear that the permanent home will
be in Sydney, Austealia. If you want the
‘model in the Smithsonian, I urge you to
write Twentieth Century Fox and Para-
‘mount Pictures who own it
~ e-mail from Gene Rizzardi
Let ws kono what you tink! Comments,
suggestions, corrections, and additional
Letters for publication shouldbe leah
the letter, typed or bandeprinted, an
Sbould be no mere than 300 words lng. If
posible, pleae include an informal uapsbot
yourself. Write to FSM, P.O. Box 1612,
Wankesbo, WT S918. E-mail sould be
sent rheyden@finccaecm. Readers aio
fam call the FSM Comment Line: 414~
798-6548, anytime, Pease remember to tell
us your bometoron or location. SEs,
WAWANDSEoES NewProducts |
of agua Accessories to enhance your modeling projects
By Marcia Stern/FSM staff photos
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Product No. CVO016 (top) sells for £5.95
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Jancary 1999 FimeSeale Modeler 15 WorkbenchReviews
FineScale Modeler evaluations of new kits on the market
Detailed Korean War Sabre from Academy
F-86F-30 Sabre
Kit: No, 2162
Manufacturer: Acade
MRC, PO. Box 6312,
6312, 0732-225-2100
Price: $25
‘Comments: Injection molded, 121 parts,
decals
Seale: 1/48.
, distributed by
ison, NJ O8818-
Fh icy e188 gst spe
ents the ultimate Korean War-era
Sabre, the F-86-30. In an effort to improve
the plane's maneuverability, designers did
away with the air-loaded leading-edge
slats, increased the chord of the wing (6" at
the toot tapering to 3” at the tip),
installed small leading-edge fe
new design was known as th
“hard” wing
‘Among the features of this kit are 8v0
pilots (seated and standing with separate
‘oxygen masks), two pairs of external fuel
tanks, opened ‘left gun bay, a choice of
nosewheels, openable speed brakes and
ceanopy, and covers for the intake and
16 FinoScale Modeler Js) 1999
Also reviewed
‘Minicraft Super Constellation, p. 17
Lindberg Dodge Dakota, p. 18
MPM Grumman FF-1, p. 20
“Tamiya F4U-1A/D Corsair, p. 22
ICM Luchs, p. 23
Eduard Spitfire Mk.21, p. 24
exhaust. Two bombs and two Sidewinder
missiles are included, but niether weapon
‘would be carried by Korean War Sabres.
‘The highlight of the kit is the detailed
engine. To show it off, you have the option
of severing the fuselage at engraved lines
inside the halves. Bulkheads fore and aft
of the break and a dolly to hold the rear
fuselage complete the scene.
sternal detail consists of fine
recessed lines. Landing-gear struts,
wheels, and wells show excellent detail.
While the cockpit instrument panel, con-
soles, stick, and throttle are great, the
jection seat has four ejector-pin. marks
in the pan and poorly engraved seat belts
‘Academy's 15-step instructions include
4 history, parts map, and painting. and
decaling diagrams for the two USAF
Sabres on the sh
ars fit overall s excellent; no filler was
needed. Three panels that contain fuselage
vents are provided as separate pieces. They
lie on the main fuselage seam, so fitting
them in after the fuselage is closed can be
tricky
T painted my
Silver and Testor
tions would have you paint the cockpit
Sabre with Floquil Old
amels, The instruc-
interior medium gray, but Korean War
Sabres were black inside, The instructions
use numbered flags to point out colors, so
you have to keep referring to the color key
‘on page 7.
Vim grat
ul that the hard-to-paint
yellow ID stripes on the wings and fuse-
lage were provided as decals, but they
‘were translucent and difficult to position,
My sample's decals were printed slightly off register. This mainly affected the red
areas of the nose art and turbine warning
stripe, which are printed over white, The
white peeks out around one side of each
and had to be trimmed away. Since the
decals are printed on white
may not notice this problem until the
decal is removed from the paper. Also,
paper, you
Lockheed L-1049 Super
Constellation
Kit: No, 14443) Seale: 1/144
Manufacturer: Minicraft Models Inc
PO. Box 3577, Torrance, CA 90510,
310-325-8383
Price: $12
Comments: Injection molded, 64 parts
decals
ices ect, Consttaton
shows up on just about everyone's
favorite airplane list. With input’ from
TWAs Hughes, Lockheed
designed the Constellation ‘in the early
days of World War II. A handful were
placed in service as military transports, but
Howard
the Connie came into its own after the
war, quickly becoming the reigning queen
of international air routes. A longer fuse:
lage, radar, and tip tanks distinguished the
Model 1049G, or Super Constellation
ke all the large propliners, the Constel
lation eventually fell victim to the jet age
Minicraft has answered the pleas of
modelers everywhere: an injection-molded
Connie in “airliner” scale, 1/144, Once I
the blue of the insignias is too light.
I put in 25 hours on my Sabre. It mew
sures to scale with the dimensions in my
references, Squadron/Signal’s F-86 Sabre
in Action, and Fighting Colors, F-86 Sabre
Academy's Sabre is a fine-looking model
with enough detail to satisfy experienced
Randal Dieck
modelers
got past gazing at the graceful fuselage
shape, [ noticed the lack of surface deta
The only engraved lines were for control
surfaces and the doors, Small parts were
marred by flash, Tip tanks and a replace:
ment short nose are optional, but the
decals for TWA and Iberia are for long
nose, tip-tanked versions,
Minicraft’s eight-step instructions. are
clear and include a brief history, markings
diagrams, and parts map. The only clear
part is for the windscreen; cabin windows
are supplied as decals
The landing gear is nicely detailed.
The nose-gear strut should slant forward
slightly, while the pair of nosewheel
should toe in at the bottom. You should-
nit have any problems making the kit
parts achieve that stance. The cowls pro-
vide adequate engine detail forthe scale
but appear too curved.
The fit of the parts is averag
Fightangle joints have soft comers that
ned to be sharpened with a file for beter
fir. Removing locating pins helped the ft
ofall components. The windshicid i thin, |
Jear, and fits well. [immed fash from |
i UOC
A Bana.) oy
INTC ha seta
1 Chevy? Convertipi, 125
fare version. 209 cuin’ engine
Convertbte top-up and down
Versions. #05 2533
@o chevye Lowrider. 1.25
Opening trunk with pumps and batteries
Great graphics! #85°2557
[sages msoace Son,
dru nce
CaF GES comes to earth
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WorkbenchReviews
the rudders and fit them to the horizontal
stabilizers before gluing the stabilizers to
the fuselage. The fit here is poor, requiring
putty for a smooth joint.
Be patient with the tip tanks ~ you'll
reed to trim flash, and you'll have to
enlarge the openings for the wing tips. The
propellers have heavy flash at the mold:
parting lines and the blades are too thick
and wide for the scale, Don't force the
cowls onto the wings or they will split open
(a couple of mine di),
When it came to choosing the paint
scheme, there was no contest. The TWA
Super G was one of the cleanest paint
schemes ever. My sample’ decals were
slightly out of register, but they went on
well. Be sure to slide them off near where
Dodge Dakota Sport
Kit: No, 72714 Seale: 1/25
Manufacturer: Lindberg Models/Craft
N. Westwood Ave., Toledo,
43, (419-536-8351
House, 3:
OH 43607
Price: $14.40
Comments:
njection molded, 41 parts (2
metal, 5 vinyl), decals
BBB igs es een fr the
new Dodge Dakota pickup. After a
10-year stint as a typical boxy workhorse,
this truck was given a complete makeover
for 1997. Ie took on the slanted wind
shield, sloped front fenders, and nose of its
petes with the compact Ford Ranger and
Chevy $-10, the Dakora is slightly Tanger,
making it closer to an intermediate-size
pickup,
Lindberg’s Super Snap Ultra kit is a
welcome addition to the pickup truck and
bother, the Ram. Although it com-
tility vehicle model market. This
you want them as they don't move easily
The rear door of the fuselage decal didn't
line up with the door engraved in the kit.
The instructions swap the numbers for the
TWA tip-tank logos, although the dia-
sgram is right; No. S goes on the right tank,
6 goes on the left.
The finished model measures two scale
feet long in span but right on the money in
length. An excellent reference is the new
Airliner Tech Vol. 1, Super Constellation by
Scott E. Germain,
After about 15 hours, I had a beautiful
Connie to add to my growing aitliner col-
lection. (My wife says, “Who's this Connie
you keep mentioning?”) I recommend it t
experienced modelers who can deal with
the detail and fit problems. Chuck Davis
kit is basically an unassembled promo-
tional model (one given away at dealer:
ships). The molded red body was free of
scratches and mold lines and had a beau-
tifully smooth finish. It was so good that
I decided to paint only the trim for the
windows and bumpers, and just polish the
plastic body
The instructions are easy to follow for
assembly, but there are no. paint sugges-
tions, I painted the inside of the bed semi-
gloss black to represent a bed liner, then
“detailed” the interior with four shades of
flat gray
Dakota in my driveway made this easy. A
decal is provided for the instrument cluster.
A dealer brochure and a real
‘Some of the parts must be glued, but
he
and
the rearview mirrors have to be glued to
the instructions don’t mention that.
backs must be cemented to the sea
the mounts. Trim, including cowl and
wipers, is molded into the clear wind-
Shield, Te
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WorkbenchReviews
item. All the interior pieces snap easly
into place.
The plated wheels were too shiny, so T
removed the chrome (with a soak in chlo
fine bleach), painted them aluminum, and
detailed with fla black. I careflly paint
cd the outline of the raised white letters
fon the ties. The wheels required. some
trimming to accept the metal axles. A
spare tite ks into_place
hassis. The rest of the kit
and wheel
underneath the
was literally as
and the chassis is held
Grumman FF-1/G-23 Goblin
7 Seale: 1/72
: MPM, available from
Squadron Mail Order, 1115 Crowley Dr.
llton, TX 75011-5010, 972-242
Pries
Comments:
$1498
Injection molded, 83. parts
20 photoetched, 1 film instrument pan
), decals
xcept for the years between 1969 and
1973, Grumman fighters have served
with US, Navy units from 1933 to today
‘This incredible string started with the FF-
1, known as
plac
retractable landing gear, and performance
if” by its crews. The two
biplane offered an all-metal fuselage
that surpassed biplanes in service at the
MPM’ kit offers well-molded parts,
recessed panel lines, an injection-molded
to the body with two small screws
‘The result is an attractive “curbside” ~
a model with no underhood detail. It took
me less than 10 hours to finish, If I had
chosen another color, more time would
applying color cous
Lindberg Dakoes is ingle enough for
beginners and has the potential for experi
to praluce a filly detailed
teal replica of a popular pickup.
Mike Docad
enced model
‘canopy, photoetched-brass cockpit details,
and optional cowl and forward fuselage
deck for the export G-23 version, Decals
provide markings for one Navy Fifi of VE-
5B, a Canadian Goblin, and a G-23
‘Delfin’ from the Spanish Civil War,
1e-piece canopy limits the view
inside the cockpit, and unless you opt t0
cut it into segments and pose it open, you
‘may want to omit some of the tiny pho-
toetched cockpit details.
All the plastic parts required cleanup of
‘mold-separation lines and edges, typical of
low-pressure injection-molded kits. Most
‘The
cabane (central) struts are shown reversed
struts were too thick for the scale
in the instructions; the pair with the larger
top-wing fairings should go aft
Assembling biplanes is tricky, but this
fone even of the lack of
positive locking devices for struts on the
ore 80 becau
Wings and fuselage. I artempted to fit the struts to the lower wing and fuselage, then
dey-fit the top wing to check that all were
aligned. The cabane struts produced prop:
er clearance between the top_wing and
canopy, but the interplane “N” struts
woulda span the distance between wings
T ended up shortening the cabanes, then
inducing extra dihedral to. the bottom
wings to get all the struts to touch both
wings. I replaced the interplane aileron
actuator rods and horizontal tail supports
with the smallest Contrail strut stock. 1
pre-drilled holes in the wings and fuselage
for nylon monofilament rigging.
he paint scheme is complicated.
When the FF-1 was in service, the Navy
painted all metal surfaces light gray, while
Vought Frau-1D Corsair
No. 61061 ‘Seale: 1/48
Minafscurer Tamiya, deanbured by
‘Tamiya America, 2 Orion, Aliso Viejo, CA
-4200, 800-826-4922
Injection molded, 113 pats
Qvinyl). decals ®
22 FineSeale Modeler J201 19
WorkbenchReviews
fabric-covered surfaces and struts. were
coated with aluminum-impregnated dope.
The custom of the day was a glossy yellow
top wing, In the case of the airframe repre-
sented on the deca, the section-leader col-
ors of true blue were applied to the cov,
fuselage band, and wing chevron. The car-
rier-keyed tail-geoup color for USS
Lexingéon was also true blue
I sprayed all bur the cowl and top surface
ofthe top wing with Sa Spray Metal, then
masked and sprayed the fuselage light gray.
When that was dry, I masked and painted
the tal, cowl, and fuselage band blue. At
this stage, I added the top wing, threaded
and anchored the rigging, then masked
around and painted the yellow top surface
lollowing its birdcage Corsaie, Tamiya
has released the more familiar bub-
bletop F4U-1A/D. Fitted with two pylons
under the wing center section that could
carry bombs or fuel tanks, the fighter-
bomber D model was the first Corsair to
be deployed aboard carriers in squadron
strength,
The Propagteam decals were beautiful-
ly printed, but troublesome. Once down,
they wouldn't move, and I tangled one of
the little “U.S. Navy” legends under the
tail. MPM suggests cutting tiny sections of
1.2mm rod oF wire for exhaust stubs on the
engine. To get the curved shape, it might
be easier to use solder, but I haven't added
the stubs to my model
I spent 27 hours on the litle Fifi, much
of that fiddling with the struts, rigging,
and painting. It scales perfectly with the
dimensions in. Squadror/Signal’s. Grum-
‘man Biplane Fighters in Action
MPM FF-1 is not for beginners. Bone
up on your strut and rigging skills before
you attempt this one Paul Beyer
Tamiyals new kit features fine engraved
panel lines, a well-detailed cockpit (with
the proper “floorless” tub), a good twin-
row radial engine, a pilot figure posed
standing on the gull wing, choice of A and
D canopies, and the best parts ~ dropped
flaps and folded wings. You can build the
kit with the wings extended, but if you want to raise the flaps, you'll have to cut
the mounting tabs from them. Decals pro-
vide markings for three overall glossy sea
blue machines.
T appreciated the separate wheel fronts
(making painting easier), add-on rocket
stubs (making decaling easier), and the
poly-cap prop keeper. The sliding portion
of the two-piece canopy fits fine in the
‘open position over the turtle deck, You also
have a choice of opened or closed cowl
flaps and covers forthe wing pylons if no
ordnance is mounted,
Parts fit is perfect. There's no flash, and
rmold-separation lines disappear with a
swipe of a polishing stick. After sanding a
PzKpfw I Ausf L“Luch:
Kit: No. 35-121 Seale: 1
Manufacturer: ICM, available from
Squadron Mail Order, 1115 Crowley Dr,
Carrollton, TX 75011-5010, 972-242
8663
Price: $22.98
Comments: Injection molded, 343 parts,
decals
slight bevel on the end of the propeller
shaft, the shaft slides through the front of
the crankcase into the poly cap with a solid
thunk, Don't forget to punch through the
faired-over holes in the wings if you want
to mount the weapons pylon
‘The wing sections fit each other so
closely that I was able to dress the leading:
edge seams with a polishing stick ~ no
sanding necessary. The horizontal stabiliz
crs slide tightly into their slots and stay
there without glue. With the gunsight hole
in the instrument panel centered on the
fuselage seam, the interior will fit tightly
and wont inhibit the fit of the fuselage
halves,
Ithough it looked like a Mini Panther,
the Luchs (Lynx) light, reconnais:
sance tank was the developmental end of
the line of the Panzer I. Only 100 were
built,
sance units of just a few panzer divisions.
ICM dark-yellow plastic parts. have
sharp surfice detail and almost no flash.
nd they were used in the reconnais
Features include separate tack links and one
I painted my Corsair with AeroMaster
bird enamels. The instrument panel
ecal fits the raised detail so well that the
dials Tine up. The rest of the decals,
although thick, snuggled down with a litle
AeroMaster Acro Sol II setting solution,
Nearly anyone who has painted and
decaled a model can produce a great
Corsair from this kit, Still, detalers might
want to add a bafile between the rows of
the engi
do away with the vestigial
wing-tank filler caps (tanks removed «
FAU-1D models), add the leading-edge
wing-fold doors, and add interior rails for
the sliding canopy: Picky, picky.
Al Jones
figure. Several turret hatches can be posed
open, bur no interior detail is provide
The multi-piece
together well. The main fender piece
(A11) fits too tightly and doesnt allow the
Tower hull went
glacis plate to sit properly onto the lower
hull, so I filed and sanded it and the tow
points on the hull sides (A3 and Ad)
Dorit worry about the obvious seam
ce teat an
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Janwry 1999 FimeSeale Modeler 23 [rose
be.
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NEW 1962 1
24 FineScale Modeler
below the engine air intakes ~ stowage boxes
cover most of it. The armored visors for the
io operator can be posed open
fo closed. The spare track set is molded
together with support framework and the
inner surfaces of the drive bulges. [cut this
into components to simplify painting.
int the area under the engine intakes
as the yellow base color of the plastic
will be noticeable through the large open-
ings. These openings usually were covered
with screening, but none is provided in the
kit. I couldnt resist adding vinyl mesh
from my spares box.
Thad to fill and sand the noticeable
seam between the upper and lower parts of
the turret. Detail on the 20mm cannon
appears simplified,
deiver and f
| “When working on the suspension,
| check the fit of the wheels to the suspen=
| sion arms. Most of mine fit too tightly, but
alittle fling and sanding fixed them. The
Spitfire Mk.21
Kit: No. 7012 Scale: 1/72
Manufacturer: Eduard, distributed. by
Precision Parts Corp., 800 Proctor Ave
Ogdensburg, NY 13669, ©613-224-9071
Price: $24.99
Comments: Mixed media, 146 parts (69
injection-molded plastic, 14 resin, 62 pho-
toetched brass, 1 film instrument panel)
decals,
Bete touil be ea wo nx be
tracks have good detail and went together
fine, There are ejector-pin marks on the
inside surfaces, but in most cases they
won't be visible
T painted my model with Polly Scale’
panzer colors ~ dark yellow, olive green, red
brown, Decals for five vehicles are provid-
rimming
‘excess fil yields a better appearance
‘My main reference was Darlington
Productions’ Tech Ince Val. 2. It has an offi-
US. Army report with photos on the
Luchs. Panzerkampfiwagen Land Il German
Light Tanks 1935-45 by Eric Grove also
was useful. Compared to photos, the fin
ished model looks mostly right, but the
turret doesnt seem tall enough.
T enjoyed the 22 hours it took to com-
plete my Luchs. It not only fills a gap in
German armor collections, but also looks
good
Traleri,
ced, and they went on. fine
nong the big boys from Dragon,
ind Tamiya Jim Zeske
familiar with the Mk.21. It was the first
Spit with the revised wing that became
standard on the Mk.22 and 24. Mk 21s
carried either the Griffon 61 engine with
five-blade propeller or the Griffon 85
engine and six-blade counterrotating
prop. Only 120 Mk.21s were built, and
they were too late to see action in World
War IL
Eduard’s Profi-Pack kit contains typical
limited-run styrene parts that require
cleanup of mold-parting lines and block
sanding of mating surfaces. Also provided are excellent resin castings of the rudder,
elevators, wheels, seat, cockpit door, and
other details. They are well eas, but to use
their plastic counterparts
Most of the top-quality photoctched
parts go in the cockpit, and some of these
are tiny. Be careful when you cut them
from the frame; they can fly aw.
appear! If you use the photoetched cockpit
details, remove the basic detail molded
inside the fuselage halves, While you are at
it, thin down the walls to make the pho-
twetched interior fit better. In step 5, the
the control surface
and dis-
frame for the control column linkage is
narrower than the floor, so T added a cou
ple of styrene strips to close the gaps,
T followed the instructions on building
the cockpit most of the way, but left out
the forward and aft bulkheads, instrument
panel, cockpit floor, and seat
until after the fuselage halves were joined
‘These all fit through the open bottom
before the wing is added.
ies
My sample had a few sinkholes in the
upper cowl pieces,
resin elevators should have the prominent
and the replacement
ribbing sanded away; these were all-metal
and should be smooth,
“The wing/fusclage joints needed san!
ing dry-fitting, and eventually lite
Ifyou are a detail fanatic, you can add the
ity bitsy photoetched shutter actuators
inde the radiators, but they will be hard
to see. The ventral carburetor intake was
100 deep, so [reshaped it.
Choose a prop, assemble and clean up
the hub first, then file the comers off the
scare peg at the base ofeach blade so you
can adjust the pitch and fi
My sample’ three-piece open canopy
didnt fit well, so T chose the one-piece
closed canopy. Of course, with the canopy
closed, you can barely see all that wonder
ful cockpit detail!
Painting was simple; I used Model
Master Metalizer non-buffing aluminum
Scale clear gloss. The
Propagteam decals are thin and fragile. In
the scheme I modeled, the forward red
stripes are marked backwards: No. 61
should go on the right side with the
cethaust cutout facing up (62 goes on the
left). When viewed from the side, the
ntered on the center
sealed with Polly
stripes should be
Tine of the prop hub, not above it. Put the
forward fuselage stripes on first, then
place the fuselage roundels, then the re
stripes. I replaced the insignias because
the white portions were too wide for Type
C roundels.
‘The completed Mk.21 is an attractive
model, but the wings and fin appear too
thick. The overall dimensions are within a
few scale inches of the measurements in
my main reference, Alfred Price’ The
Spitfire Story. I spent about 20 hours build-
ing the kit and would recommend it to
experienced modelers because ofthe small
parts and extensive cleanup,
Ross Whitaker
FSM photos by William Zuback and Jim
rbes
Exery Workbench Review is a firsthand
report by a medeler sho has built the ke or
used the product. Evaluation is of secondary
importance; the reviewer's primary goal is io
provide a detailed description ofthe product so
FSM readers can evaluate it for themselves.
‘Models shown are built straight from the bos.
FSM readers should check their local bobby
shops for kts featured in tis colwmn before
cortting to manufacturers. Unsolicited reviews
are not accepted. For previous Workbench
Reviews, se PSM’ home page on the World
Wide Web:
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Janvary 1999 FimeSeale Modeler 25 Marines take a break while landing their LVT(A)-1 amphibious assault vehicle on
Roi Namur island in the Pacific Theater of Operations. The only LVT kit Frank could
find in 1/95 scale was made by Nitto. UPC made an LVT kit in the 1960s in 1/39 scale.
He combined these with a Tamiya MS. Plenty of sheet plastic also was needed; 70
percent of the model is scratchbuilt.
28 FineScale Modeler A Pacific-Theater
Amtank Diorama
A diorama captures
a moment in history
[ Jf World War IT whe amtank as it appeared in
a early 1944. It is the No. 8
vehicle from B company,
Ist Marine Amphibious
‘Tank Brigade.
their “amtank” versions were ar
ssential part of this categor
T narrowed my Nieto kits su
Meet Frank
Wood
Frank
and Woodland Seenic Admin
[selected branches fr mall formed
Douglas fir palm fleet of researc
trunks. Heavy rag paper and aircraft
excelsi rise the fronds year
raining Washington, with his wife
and two children
> the base with Using oll paints, Frank
sin, which for reanimated and detailed
the water. To finish, | the figures, a combina-
ated the water with clear tom of Veslinden, Airfix
epony FSM Multipose, and Testor
models.
FineScale Modeler 29 FOKKER
Correcting Revell-Monogram’s big D.VII
with a little plastic surgery
By Frank L. Mitchell
he Fokker D.VI was a late addition to Reve
classic tio of World War I fighters prod
the late 1950s
Fokker Del triplane. While welcon
in the D.VIT's shape dampened its reception Mo
The two main problems are a fuselage that is too deep and a kit
ngs to 1/28 scale. I used lan Stairs set in Windsock Data
9 published in 1993; Nicholas Karstens’ set from 1978 (pub-
zines); and Joseph Nieto’ published by
accuracies lished in several
ny years ago. It appears Revell based its
other two
i they match fairly closely
wing that has too much downwat ther, and to my eye, the Karstens
front. Ifyou have been puting ect
reconsider, the work isnt had p- The upper surface of the kit's top
30 FineScale Modeler Jsiiry 19 1/28 Scale
Droop taken out of top wing
January 199 FimeSeale Modeler 31 useage wort FUSELAGE HEIGHT CORRECTION.
‘CORRECTION 728 scale
Vas scale
‘win correcnons
1728 scale
Leading edge
Left fuselage halt
(Gepeaton ight hal)
aroped
(rept
=)
‘wing droops from center to tips, while the real wing had practi
cally no droop. To fix it, use a razor saw of repeated passes of a
hobby knife to make the four cuts shown in 4. These cuts allow
the wing to be bent easily. Place it with the upperside down on
a flat surface and gently force the wing tips down. Pour alittle wos,
gap-filling super glue into the cuts and set it with super-glue
accelerator. Reinforce the wing with a brass tube, but dont block
the holes for the wing struts
Ifyou want to position the ailerons, now is the time to cut
them from the wing halves. The bottom half of the top wing
will bend to fit the corrected top, but to make the fit stress-free,
make cuts in the leading edge only at the same locations as the
upper surface. Glue the halves together, fill gaps, sand them
smooth, and you're done with the wing,
Fuselage liposuction. The fiselage is 100 deep
from nose to tail and too wide from the cockpit aft. I corrected
the width before fixing the depth
The rear fuselage ean be narrowed by removing plastic from
each fuselage half at the mating surface. Cut away the indicated
area on both the top and bottom of each fuselage half, 2. Sav
cuts where indicated to allow the halves to be bent easily
32 FineScale Modeler J a "TAL CORRECTIONS
1728 scale
they are joined. Note that these lateral cuts do not quite reach
the sides of the fuselage
Lay each fuselage half on a flat surface, and gently push
down. The fuselage will bend to shape and can be secured with
small pieces of scrap plastic super glued inside each half. As you
proceed, check that everything is straight and the fuselage sides,
match, 3
Iilustration shows the area to be removed to reduce the
depth of each fuselage half I did this operation in two stages:
bbchind the wing frst, then in front of the wing. Once the plastic
is removed, the bottom can be pushed up and glued to the sides,
5. Preserve the flanges for the engine cowl side panels. The kit
panels can be sanded to fit the modified openings.
fier modification, the notch in the fuselage forthe bottom
wing is to0 shallow, so remove the “bridge” holding the upper
surfaces of the bottom wing. Glue the upper surfaces to the
lower and dry-fit the wing into the shallow notch. This places
the lower wing into the correct position on the fuselage.
All the cuts and seams were filled with Sig Balsa-Rite, avail
able in the flying-model section of hobby shops. It mixes and.
sands easily, and it doesn't shrink over time
Tail-end work. My dog ate the original rudder (celly})
so [replaced the vertical tail with one made of sheet styrene
The horizontal surfaces need to be reshaped, 6. I cut away the
control surfaces and reinstalled them on bits of brass wite so I
could offset them.
Inside story. Much of thin interior is scratchbuilt
Although I used the kit scat, I thinned the back considerably
and drilled lightening holes in the back. The machine guns were
‘made up of the kit receivers (with added detail), alursinum tub-
ing barrels, and slightly cut-down photoetched cooling jackets
from Marco's Miniatures’ 1/24 scale Spandau gun kts lined
the side walls and the curtain behind the seat with lozenge
decal, 2.
Assembly jig.
Ir seems involved, but it’s the only way I know to assure straight
and square alignment of the tail, wings, and fuselage It also
makes final assembly quick and neat
The base is a board slightly larger than the model in both
length and span. With a ruler draftmans and pencil,
draw a line to represent the center line of the fuselage and a per-
pendicular line for the leading edge of the bottom wing,
assemble biplanes in a homemade jig BD crernacnon
Notto scale
Inerplane "struts
‘mite for arty
Top wing
Sirus modied tft
Typical seut
Natt sale
we
With about? 7
Landing gear
‘ae foning,
Super glue small pieces of scrap wood along the Tine for the
wing leading edge. Place the fuselage and bottom wing on the
jig s0 they line up with the lines drawn on the board. Glue more
‘wood to the base along the trailing edge of the wing and at the
wing tips
Place scrap-wood blocks around the fuselage and shim up the
his traps the bottom wing.
forward or rear end until it is aligned properly with the bottom
wing,
Before gluing the bottom wing to the fuselage, determine the
distance between the top and bottom wings and make supports
for the top wing from balsa blocks, 8. My measurements were
based on the drawings.
New cabane struts. Compared to many aircraft of
the time, the D.VII had fine struts, and not many of them,
Despite its fragile appearance, the structure was so strong that
wire bracing was used only between the landing-gear struts
‘The kit struts have accurate widths and thicknesses, but they
are flimsy and their lengths had to be modified, As it worked
‘out, the correction to the wing (tips moved up) and the fuselage
(bottom brought up) meant the interplane "N” struts needed
only alittle reshaping on the ends to fit. I also had to reposition
the holes in the undersurface of the top wing; this becomes obvi-
‘ous when you set the model in the jig and position the struts,
“The central (cabane) struts, however, had to be made from
scratch. Prop up the front of the jig for easier access to the
model. With the fuselage and wings taped in the jig, measure
and fit new center struts. I used /s” piano wire super glued to
“square basswood strip and sanded to the shape of the kit
struts, Piano wire and basswood strips are available in the flying
‘model section of hobby shops.
The lengths shown in 9 do not include an additional
cach end that fits into holes in the wing and fuselage. Your
‘model may vary from mine, so these measurements should serve
as starting points. Label the struts and set them aside until all,
painting and finishing is complete.
T made new struts for the landing gear, oo, but I didn't make
jig this time,
Color schem:
smooth, apply the color scheme of your choice. I covered the
‘wings with lozenge decals from Bluprint Models. These were
made for its 1/24 scale kts, but close enough for this 1/28 scale
model. They were a bit thick, so I had to make cuts here and
there to allow them to fit, and I applied white glue to the tral
ing edges to hold the lozenge down, 10.
34 FineScale Modeler Junssry
After all seams are filled and sanded
‘The blue rib tapes were cut from Microscale’s Conrail blue
(TF-23) solid-color decal sheet. The crosses for the wings and.
taill were taken from the kt.
used Floquil Reefer White and Polly-Scale USAAC Blue
23 for the fuselage. The personal markings and fuselage crosses
‘were masked with fisket and sprayed black. The markings rep
resent a DVI flown by Leutnant Rudolph Stark of Jasta 35.
Toversprayed the model with a mixture of Testor Dulleote
and Glosscote, then applied Floquil flat finish over the “metal”
panels around the nose, All struts were painted semigloss black,
After reinstalling the model in the jig,
11. For finishing touches, I added stretched sprus
the struts,
‘wires and the braces between the landing-gear struts.
Now the Revell-Monogram Fokker D.VII looks like a
Fokker D.VIL. Correcting a kit such as this gave me
of accomplishment,
SOURCES
Balsa filler Sig Manufacturing Co., 401-7 S. Front St,
Box 520, Montezuma, IA 50171-0520, & 515-623-5154
Decals Bluprint Models, PO. Box 838, Pelham, NH
(03076-0838, and Microscale, 1570 Sunland Lane, Costa
Mesa, CA 92626
Photoetched details Marco's Miniatures, PO. Box
658, Dracut, MA 01826, & 603-635-7639 Building
Dioramas
36 FineScale Modeler Basic Techniques
ADVANCED RESULTS
Your works of art should be
displayed as artwork!
By Craig Yaple
Craig's “The Calm Before the
a 1195 scale diorama,
above right, fits in his home-
made shadow box, above.The
frame and box preserve the dio-
ama and create a formal pre-
sentation.
available in hy
sider enlistin aac cgiates FRAME CONSTRUCTION. — ‘powitps
‘back |{ setae =
side S80 1E7 oneview
etait eat
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MAGNETIC CATCH
‘SUPPORT DETAIL
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38 FineScale Modeler Jisissy 1999
Using a bookcase asa guide, I decided
that the exterior of the box should be 12"
high, 12" deep, and 20" wide.
Box construction. The inter-
include a wood top frame made
quare stock, a bottom frame of
11x 2s, and two catch Supports made of
1x3" lumber,
‘The external case includes the sides,
back, top, and the diorama base. I made
these out of ’” particle board because it’s
easy to work with and can be finished in
‘many ways. Cut the case parts at least
‘oversize so they can be planed and sanded
to precision.
“Assemble the frames frst using simple
bute joints. Fasten them with carpenters
glue and 1" No. 6 dry-wall screws. Pre~
rill holes and countersink them so the
screw heads don't protrude. Use corner
clamps to keep the frames square when
assembling then
Once the frames are completed, glue
the sides tothe frames on a tabletop or
workbench to help keep everything
square, 3. Hold the sides in place with
bar or pipe clamps and add a few "4" No.
6 dry-wall serews for safekeeping. Follow
with the back and the top.
Test fit the diorama
base extend past che frame. I usually cut it
back 'A" from the frame’ edge.
‘Two magnetic catch holders attached
to each side of the box will hold the front
frame and reveal (view port), @. Cut slots
for the catches into 87"-long pieces of
1" x3" lumber with a hand saw and wood
chisel, 8. Attach the holders to the box
interior so the diorama base can slide in
underneath them and stil leave room to
slide in the backdrop top from above.
Glue and clamp in place, then add a cou-
ple of screws, 6,
Finishing. Particle boant has a
coarse texture that needs to be painted or
covered, You can cover it with laminates
for wood veneers, but I paint mine.
Before applying a finish, patch all
nicks and serew holes. I use super-light
spackling paste. When the paste is dry,
lightly sand all surfaces, 2
ter cleaning away sanding dust, I
prime with flat biack paint. Next comes a
fine coat of Krylon Texture Stone paint
om all exterior surfaces, 8. This hides
‘most irregularities in the particle board.
When the Krylon is dry, I follow with
towo coats of semigloss black paint on all
surfaces
Lighting. | ge: American
Fluorescent Corporation's MS104 6" light
fixture at a hardware store for all of
boxes. The light comes ready to install,
but you can rewire it easly to fit your
needs, 9
Start by cutting a ‘" x 2" wood base
that is 514" long. This allows room for the
wires to fit under the ight sockets after
they are mounted. Center the wood sock-
et base inside the box behind the 1" x 1"
Upper frame and glue in place. I shape
aluminum flashing for a light deflector to
direct light and heat away from the wood
base, 10. Mount the light sockets to the
base with sheet-metal screws
Mount the starter and ballast to the
bottom frame inside the box. I use part of
the metal casing that comes with the light
Unitas a heat buffer between the ballast
and wood, Drill a" hole forthe electri
cal cord in the back of the box about 2"
above the bottom frame and 1” from the
box comer. You will need wire nuts, elec:
trical tape, and 16-gauge lamp cord to
base; don't let the [aioe
B
+) WIRING DIAGRAM
109) FimeSeale Modeler 39 ‘TWO-PIECE BACKDROP
Fourply acd tee mat board
Backdiop is pressed
to back of bow
rap i emer ole Notch
igh and 3 long sockets
saew| \ Lo gyn of 17
tz
-
Top of backdrop shy)
Frame. The picture frame creates to cover the hardware in the box. To fix locations for the magnetic-catch plates.
the formal look of the box and serve this problem, carpet-stop molding forms Attach the plates to the frame, then
the reveal If youre handy with a miter a."-wide fille that fits in the frame's determine the loc of the alignment
box, you can cut and build your own rabbet, 13, The fillet holds the glass with pin holes. The holes are bored with a
frame; otherwise, have a custom four smal retaining clips screwed into the drill bit," deep in the box sides, about
shop make it ack of the frame. You also could hold the" deep in the frame. Atach the pins
The frame should cover the glass with glaziers points or special glass and test fit the frame to the box, 14.
edge of the box by 4" on all sid retaining clips Backdrop. The bicksirop is an
needs to be wide enough to hide the Paint the back of the frame flat bl: area for creative expression. [ used four
unsightly functional parts inside, I used a adding hardware. Carefully align ply acid-free mat board primed white to
21/"-wide frame ~ not quite wide enough the frame over the opening and mark the take oil paint, Irs a two-piece backdrop: a
40 FineScale Modoler |. , REFERENCES
The Art of the Diorama
Ray Anderson, Kalmbach Books,
Waukesha, Wisconsin, 1988 |
How to Build Dioramas
Sheperd Paine, Kalmbach Books
Waukesha, Wisconsin, 1980
Scenery Tips and
Techniques (vxri0us authors
mn Model Railroader magazi
Kalmbach Books, Waukesha,
Wisconsin, 1989
de
Meet Craig Yaple
Craig started modeling when he was
a youngster. He credits his father, an
excellent modeler himself, as having
the most influence. After time away to
attend college, Craig retumed to the
hobby in 1998 with a bachelor of fine
arts in photography and an assoc
degree in graphic design. He says his
ceditcation helped him overcome mod
cling challenges that seem
ble in the past.
Craig, 33, works in the animation
art field in Seattle, Washington
sd impossi-
“sky” and a “wrap” that curves around the the backdrop components with “:" No. 6 use oils for painting the backdrop scenes,
back of the box. sheet-metal screws in concealable loca-__ ut you can
Make the sky the same size as the tions. Once the backdrop isin place, slide With the backdrop and diorama com
with a notch cut out of the corner to run in the base to make sure everything fits. plete, slip in ehe base, and place the frame
the wires. Cut out a section for the lam Now add groundwork, 11, Place the on the front of the box.
bracket, too, 15. clements of the diorama on the base and While this article shows how to mak
Cut the wra snug in the box ide it back into the box. Here's my dio- simple yet beautifll shadow-box cases,
and against the sky: Leave about ama out of the box, 18 and 19. 1 can modify this design, enlarge or
between the diorama base and the back Determine what parts of the backdrop reduce the size, and add the touches that
drop, 16 will be visible ~ no sense painting the best show off your models, FSM
Tur the box upside down to secur arts that will be hidden, 20 and 24.1
Januaey 1999 FimeScale Modeler 41 TESS ed
Caner eee
heen
et CrP DLA Pretend
Sale, Victoria, Australia
EVE Pe St el eed
‘wears the colors and markings of A8-148, No. 1
‘Squadron, RAAF Base Amberley, Queensland,
enna eters een eet
ees
6 Matthew Johnson
Pee eon
cn ey ene per tat
[Gemini Alpha Control Launch Site Matthew
Added a reinforced diorama background image,
Peet nets
Pree
ed
Se ruretboneaed
tee ono
ere ec ee ey
pred een ctet cet een
Pans
footed
Ceo
“The intricate detail on this conversion ofa 1/700
scale AC-130 ial the more amazing with the
the ert oe ae)
this Skywave model to compare tothe fll-size
EC-130E “Commando Sol.” eed
ee oy
Seen at ee cd
Tae eaten eaten
Sera ee
PO eet oeey
Bridgewater, New Jersey
ree een eer
Se ey
een nt eee as
‘camouflage and markings representative of
perenne
ead
ee ee eon
cite ea event ts
Se ees
roe ene
Pe eee
eed
Dee oe Cet
een ae ee eS
et ee ee ets
Cee ete ns
‘many component: injection-molded parts
from Heller's 707-320, Hasegawas B-47E,
sand Monogram’ B-S2D, and vacuuon-
formed parts from Novas C-141A, Rare-
planes! KC-97G/L and White Eagle
rN
California cruisin. Jonathan detailed Lind-
berg 1/24 scale Crown Victoria police ca to
Petree es eas
ch oe
eo
een Eee Se ty
20 deal changes to Tamiya 1/16 scale
Porsche-turret King Tiger to depict a tank of
Pee ame e)
Porn
Pee oe ee eT) ADVANCED RESULTS
Original X-15
Backdating Monogram’s X-15A-2 to the record-shatter-
ing research workhorse By Christopher Crofzot
ith the possible excep- Truly a milestone aix-
‘ion of the Wright Flyer, exaft, the 3-15 flew
North American X- faster and higher
" ost im than any other air-
8 rT
plane. Jim Forbes
photo.
T wanted to
ate the
model the
original, workhorse
X15
Fuselage modifica-
tons. To restore the A-? fuse
ection ar. Begin by removing
the wings from the upper half of the fuse
ite
aN
Boxed in i
brake opening lage. Cut through
the fuselage 1" for-
ward of the upper vertical
stabilize, then again at the
‘equivalent point on the lower
half. Measure
cut line and cut again on both the
" forward from the
upper and lower fuselage halves.
Use the adjacent pane! detail
as a guide to keep the cuts
perpendicular to the cen
ter line
After you've cleaned
up the cuts, glue the
upper and lower halves
together and clean up the
joints, 1
I decided to display my model on its
landing skids, so I plugged the holes for
the transport trolley and the A-2's drop
tanks,
The X-15A-2 had helium- and perox:
ide-tank ext of the
plane to drive the engine’ turbo pump for
longer periods. These need to be
ons at the rea
moved
to restore the craft to X-15 configuration
‘To backdate the fuselage
of the side extensions ~ everything aft
nel Line. While you
have the saw handy, remove the extension
move the last
of the last raised pa
from the vertical stabilizer
I wanted to pose the model with its air
brakes deployed, so I removed the appro-
priate sections from the dorsal and ventral
stabilizers, then boxed in the openings
with sheet styrene and gap-filling super
2.
After installing the cockpit and gluing
the upper and lower fuselage halves
together, reinstall the w
to the landing gear, 3.
Landing-gear modifica-
tion, The X-15A-2 was flown with a
scramjet mounted on its ventral fin, so the
gear was extended to provide
ground clearance
T
figuration, you'll need to remove a section
from the middle of the nose-gear strut
and modify the gear door. The kit’s nose
;eturn it to the X-158 original con-
gear strut and landing-gear door are
molded together ~ remove the gear door
To
shorten the strut, cut just above the com:
with a razor saw and set it asi
pressed oleo section and just below the
supports that run down both sides of the
strut, Discard the center section and glue
the halves togeth
Cura A"-deep rectangle out of the
lower half of the gear door, then bridge
the bottom edge of the gap with thin
strip styrene
ular door covered this
during flight.
Working as a small air brake, the door
dropped into the slipstrean
ing and pulled the nose gear down into its
locked position. I made the door from
A smaller rectar
section of the gear do
during land-
sheet styrene and attached it to the main
gear door at the proper angle
I trimmed the
gear door until it fit in the nose-ge:
then added it to the nose-gear strut,
1/72 Seale
The X-1
Faster and higher
North American’ rocket-powered
X-15 research aircraft not only shat-
tered speed and altitude records, but
also helped bridge the gap between
atmospheric and space flight.
Making its frst powered flights in
1959, the X-15 went on to fly higher
and faster than any other airplane. It
‘was the frst winged aircraft to fly fous,
five, and six times the speed of sound,
and several pilots, including Neil
‘Armstrong, who would become the
first man to walk on the moon, earned
astronaut wings by flying the X-15 to
altitudes above 50 miles. Eventually
the aircraft flew to a peak altitude of
354,200’, and the X-15A-2 flew at
Mach 6.72 (4,534 mph).
‘After an air launch from a modified
Bocing B-52 mothership at approxi-
‘mately 45,000’ and 500 mph, the rock~
cet engine operated for the first 80 to
100 seconds of flight. As much space-
‘raft as airplane, the X-15 used con-
ventional control surfaces during
atmospheric flight, and reaction-con-
trol rockets located in its nose and
‘wings while operating at the edge of
space. Constructed of high-strength
nickel alloy, the ship withstood aerody-
namie temperatures exceeding 1,000
degrees F.
“After engine shutdown, the aircraft
would glide for 10 to 11 minutes and
end with a 200 mph landing on a dry
lake bed. Before landing, the lower half
of the ventral fin would be jettisoned,
and the craft would touch down on its
two-wheel nose gear and two rear
landing skids
‘The three X-15s flew total of 199
flights beeween 1959 and 1968, The
first is on display at the National Air
and Space Museum in Washington,
D.C; the X-15A-2 ison display at the
Air Force Museum at Wright-
Patterson Air Force Base near Dayton,
Ohio. The third aireaft was destroyed
in a 1967 crash
~ Matthew Usher Sond i
C
50 FineScale Modeler Ja::ry 19%
syne
Not to scale
Decals
SuperScale International
P.O. Box 1017, Carson City, NV
89702
Paint
Testor 620 Buckbee St., Rockford,
IL 61104-4891, 815-962-6654
Styrene components
Evergreen Scale Models
12808 NE 125th Way, Kirkland, WA.
98034
At The Edge of Space: The
X-15 Flight Program Milton
©. Thompson, Smithsonian Press,
Washington, D.C., 1992
X-Planes at Edwards Steve
Pace, Motorbooks International,
Osceola, Wisconsin, 1995
2-15 Diary Richard Tregaskis,
E.P. Dutton & Co,, New York, New
York, 1961
Stretched sprue represents the extension
brace. After adding the wheels, I set the
assembly aside
Although the kt’ landing skids are
retracted, they're not difficult to modify t0
the down position. Cut the skids in half
at the molded parting line in the mide,
then cut off the joint on the fuselage end.
Sand the skids toa thinner, more scale
appearance, then reassemble them in the
folded landing position, 5.
Tadded skid braces made from
stretched sprue, then realized they weren't
Jong enough. The illustration shows the
correct length.
Canopy modification.
X-15A-2s canopy isthe same size and
shape as the X-158, but the windshields
are different shapes. While the A-2 had
an oval window on the pilot’ right and a
‘mechanical “eyelid” shutter on the
the original aircraft had more con
al openings
Topened both sides of the canopy
using a drill and small files. When T was
satisfied with the shape of both openings,
[installed clear styrene windows and
blended them into the surrounding
canopy with putty and progressively fin
grits of sandpaper. Finally, I used a eos
metic nal-buffing stick to polish the Modified landing —
scratches out of the clear sty
painted the inter
Master
Finish and markings. |
X-15 wore black paint similar to the SR.
71 Blackbird. The c
from photo to photo, ranging from flat
black to glossy blue. I painted my mod
with a mixture of 50 percent Mod
Master insignia blue (FS 35044), 35
‘cent Model Master gunmetal, and 15 per
‘cent Model Master flat black (FS 37038),
To keep the percentages accurate, 1
marked a glass bottle 1" up from its bot
tom and divided the inch into the appro-
priate percentages. I added each color
carefully using a pipette, thinned the mix
ture, and applied it to the model.
obliterated a lot of raised panel detai
when I spliced the fuselage, so I redrew
the panel lines using a black colored per
cil. The technique is outlined in detail
Rusty White in his “Drawing airerai
eS TST Tes
panel lines with pencil” article in the July
1990 FineScale Modeler.
Before applying
model several fight coats of Futur
polish Sone ofthe Monogram deal
om SuperScaet SR-71 sheet (No. 72
Wes
Dcang the X-15 is best done afte
: flight,
mission, Once the decals dried, {applied
ver ight coats of Testor Dot, 8
T'm glad to have an accurate eatly
nde] X-15 for my display case ~ an air
afe that helped unlock the secrets of
future flight. sm
The X-152-2 flow at an unoffi-
cial record speed of 4,534 mph -
more than six times the speed
of sound. Jim Forbes ph.
seh esS| |_ Lighting “Star Trek’s”
Defiant
Bringing AMT/Ertl’s
“Deep Space Nine” defender to life
By Mare King
WARP ENGINES
52 FineSeale Modeler | piece of lightly sanded, clear .010"
styrene behind the openings with 5-
minute epoxy, then applied Gunze
Sangyo ¢
«red acrylic paint to the clear
The main warp cowlings (parts No. 9
and No. 10) mount on either side of the
hull and fice the stern, I emoved th
grilles from both parts using a motor tool,
cleaned up the openings, and glued both
parts in place on the lower half of the
hull. Again, I installed lightly sanded clear
1010" styrene behind the openings, but
dl them with Gunze
Sangyo clear blue, To restore the grille
pattern to the openings, I backed them
with aluminum mesh. The mesh is used
for finger splint cut, and can
ind in most dru
Ther
ither side of the ship just att of the main
‘warp cowlings. I cut the depressions out
of the hull and installed short sections of
343"-diameter styrene tubing, which I
glued to the bottom half of the hull. I
capped the rear end of the tubes with
040" styrene discs, then drilled out the
centers until the discs formed bezel
around the edge bes. | glued
aluminum-mesh discs against the bezels
inside, then installed jumbo red
the LEDs
Bussard collectors. To
ght che warp engines forward bussard
and 8 and both pare
around it with a pencil. Using a motor
Tut out the outlined area, leaving a
arrow edge around the outside. When I
inished, I repeated the process for part
rast strip. Workin
rom the inside,
I ground away the inside of both par
until they were about ,010" th
rnough for the light inside the model to
ine through. I glued both parts 17 in
place on parts 7 and 8. As with
top of ship, I installed light
lar 010" styrene behind the op
ied Gunze Sangyo clear red from
vide
Phasers. There are two phascrs
on the front of parts 7 and 8, and two
ingle phasers (part 14) on either side of
54 FineScale Modeler x
Brass tubing
K&S Engineering 6917 W.
59th St, Chicago, IL 60638
Fiber optics
Plastruct 1020 S. Wallace Place,
City of Industry, CA 91748, ©818-
12-7016
Paint
Gunze Sangyo avilable from
Squadron Mail Order 1115
Crowiey Dr, Carrollton, TX 75011-
5010, 972-242-8663
Styrene components
Evergreen Scale Models
12808 NE 125th Way, Kirkland, WA
98034
AValiant-class starship, the
Defiant originally was designed
to fight the Borg. Jim Forbes
photo.
the bottom of the ship. I replaced the
cylindrical section of each with brass
tubing
Details.
the hull using Evergreen styrene V-groove
siding (No. 4060) its .040" thick, with
added surface detail to
cer drilling out the raised area at the
center of the circular main bridge (part
(6), 1 installed a ¥/" length of "7" styrene
tubing, which I capped with an ,060
styrene disc. I di hole in the
center of the disc and filled it with a bur
dle of fiber optics
The bottom half of the hull is line
with windows, I drilled them out
filled them with Micro Krist
painting the mo
Navigational deflector.
I opened up the forward navigational
lifed
s. 1 removed the
eer after
detlector (part 4) the same way Im
molded-in grilles, and installed blue-tint
ed .010" clear styrene behind the open
ings. Finally, [gh
the openings fro
the inside with super
elu
Formation lights. To ai
blinking formation lights, I drilled hole
bit, then inserted .03
All the
a small .040" styrene-sheet box inside the
ship. A blinking bulb inside the box keeps
ts flashi
tr trands were inserted into
he sides of the warp
the nonblinking formation
then installed small, round gl
tips from miniature Christmas-tree bull
in the holes. Clearred and clear-green
paint colored th
al assembly. Before cl
ing the hull halves, | added all the light
luminate the sh
the fi
mini bulbs and one
blinking bulb operat mation
‘ohm drop the
1 the jumbo LEDs in the
stern of the shig
A 12-volt AC
ship’ lights. The ad
jack in the base of the stand its wires are
super glued to both sides of the curved
stand
The finished Defian
ady for
sm ‘STYRENE
PLastic | |
SHAPES,
SHEET &
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60 FineScale Modeler Js: 1
IndustryUpdate
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1/24 Scale Accessories and
Diorama Materials
conversion, for Lindberg’ Crown
PS 1201; wo red blue, and
Light-
Victorias N (GS— Historic Wings
“1/72 kit of Bensen X-25A/B
£6275 Export
£7.93 imelVAT
Aircraft In Miniature Limited]
19 Watling iret, Nuneaton, Warwichabie,
Evian Enel
M&Models
‘Thousands Of Plastic Kits In Stock !
‘Cottage Industries Are Our Specialty
We Haven't Got It- We'll Get It
consodatd 208 Fletstr 172 Resin by DEKNO
P.O. BOX 370 + UTICA, NY 13503,
Phone Orders: 315-733-3741
28 Hour Fax Order Line: 315-733-1723
pig¢ount
HOBBY ren eee
CENTER ot se-29 932828"
ALL NEW 1998/99 CATALOG:
with lines such as: Hasegawa, Tamiya, RevellMonogram, Dragon,
Nichimo, taleri, Edward, Heller, KP, ICM, Kendall, Testors, Jaguar,
‘Skywaves, Fujimi, Airfix, Squadron, MPM, Hitech, Hi PM, Aztek,
Verlinden and many more ~ all at our low low discount prices. .
WHITE ENSIGN MODELS
Sean I Sanat O04
