Pattern Drafting - The Straight Sleeve

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Drafting a straight sleeve block that can be used with the basic bodice block.
This will give us many design opportunities.
We will be able to make jackets, coats as well as simple dresses and shirts with sleeves.

U
B
Bodice
Bo
T ice
ce Block B
T
F

Front
U
T
T

F FF B
F

U
B

UU

U
U

Bodice Block

Back

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Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2013 - All rights reserved. No part of this document may be published or distributed without permission of the copyright holder
These are the measurements needed to draft a Straight Sleeve Block. I will again work with a slightly
non-standard size as an example:

Top Arm 11½"

Length of Arm from Shoulder to Wrist 22"
Length from Shoulder to Elbow 12"
Elbow Width 11½”
Wrist 6"

Cut a rectangle, Length of Arm less ½" x Top Arm + 2" - This is the minimum sleeve width. For
blouses and jackets you would use Top Arm + 2½". For looser garments such as coats, you
would use Top Arm + 3” for your sleeve width.
Variables?
Depth of Crown - 5" for a 36" bust size. Add or subtract ⅛" for each size larger or smaller.

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Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2013 - All rights reserved. No part of this document may be published or distributed without permission of the copyright holder
Cut a rectangle Length of Arm less ½” x Top Arm +2”
Measure down for DC - depth of
crown. 5" for bust 36". In this case
4⅞" and fold
Fold in half lengthwise

Top arm + DC
4⅞"

Folded lengthwise Fold

Length of arm less

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Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2013 - All rights reserved. No part of this document may be published or distributed without permission of the copyright holder
 Folded lengthwise

Fold again lengthwise Unfold and rule in all

the crease lines

Crease at DC line

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Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2013 - All rights reserved. No part of this document may be published or distributed without permission of the copyright holder
Measure 2" down on the Measure 2¼" down on the Draw a line U to Draw a line U
back sleeve line for B front sleeve line for F B and B to T to F and F to T

back sleeve line T front sleeve line back sleeve line front sleeve line
T

2"
B F B F

U U U U

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Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2013 - All rights reserved. No part of this document may be published or distributed without permission of the copyright holder
 Bisect UB, BT, UF and FT with a
back sleeve line front sleeve line
perpendicular line and measure T
along as shown in the diagram
Draw a nice even
B F curve through all
back sleeve line T front sleeve line the points

U U

B F

U U

Take your curve

a little below B
and F for larger
sizes because of
the slightly higher
crown

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Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2013 - All rights reserved. No part of this document may be published or distributed without permission of the copyright holder
 Fold seam edges to
centre along back
Cut out the sleeve and front sleeve line

T T

back sleeve line front sleeve line back sleeve line front sleeve line
B F B F

U U
U U
fold

fold

fold

fold
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Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2013 - All rights reserved. No part of this document may be published or distributed without permission of the copyright holder
 Turn the folded
sleeve over

T Find the elbow line

by measuring from
T to the back line
F B using the Length to F

12"
Elbow measurement
fold

B
Measure up ¾-1" at
the elbow line on the
12"

w
forearm seam and fold

elbo
to mark the revised
back sleeve line
front sleeve line

th to
Fold along this line elbow line
and turn over again

leng
E E

Measure up ¾-1"
from lower edge
Mark seam balancing along forearm for
marks 3" above and the sleeve shape
2" below elbow line at the wrist and cut
away

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Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2013 - All rights reserved. No part of this document may be published or distributed without permission of the copyright holder
 T

B F

U U
depth of crown line

fold

fold
front sleeve line
back sleeve line

Finish by rounding off

the lower edge of the
sleeve

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Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2013 - All rights reserved. No part of this document may be published or distributed without permission of the copyright holder
 Matching the Sleeve with the Bodice Block
The points on the sleeve that we match to the bodice armhole are the F
and B positions. That is the Forearm Line and the Back Line. Rotate sleeve at various
points along the bodice
The underarm and sleeve seams are not used for matching as variations armhole until you find the
Match T at top of of the sleeve may well move the sleeve seam to a different position. placement for B
sleeve to the shoulder
point on the bodice

U
U

U
F F
F

TT
T

B
B

U
U
U

Bodice Block
Bodice Block
Back
Back
Add the balance mark
¼" higher on the Bodice
to allow for the ease
allowed for in the sleeve
crown

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Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2013 - All rights reserved. No part of this document may be published or distributed without permission of the copyright holder
 Continue to rotate the sleeve at
Turn the sleeve various points along the armhole
block over and align until you come to the underarm
again the B on the
sleeve with the B on
the bodice

T
T F T
F
U F T
U BB
F B
B
U

U
U U
U U

Bodice Block
Bodice Block
Back
Back

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Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2013 - All rights reserved. No part of this document may be published or distributed without permission of the copyright holder
 You will find that at this This is where the
stage the sleeve extends sleeve seam will
beyond the bodice. This come. Mark this on
will be added to the front the bodice.
bodice armhole

F B
T
B
Make a temporary Bodice Block
U Front
mark on the U
U F
sleeve to match
U on the Bodice
Bodice Block Block
Back U

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Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2013 - All rights reserved. No part of this document may be published or distributed without permission of the copyright holder
Move the sleeve
across, matching the
opposite sleeve U
point to the mark on
Rotate the sleeve as
the front bodice
before until you find the F
position and mark this on
the bodice

U
B
Bodice
Bo
T ice
ce Block B
T
Bodice Block Front
U
Front T
T
F FF B
B F
F
U
U
UU

U
U

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Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2013 - All rights reserved. No part of this document may be published or distributed without permission of the copyright holder
 Turn the sleeve over to
continue the rotation from F We now have the Sleeve Forearm
Line and the Sleeve Back Line
marked on the bodice to enable us
to accurately match the sleeve to
the bodice
When continuing this process of rotat-
ing the sleeve in the armhole you will
find that at T there will be an excess
of sleeve. This is correct as this is the
standard ease required at the crown.
T
B
U

F F
B

Front Back
Bodice Bodice

Your Sleeve Block

Draft is Finished
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Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2013 - All rights reserved. No part of this document may be published or distributed without permission of the copyright holder