Quality floor construction includes good subgrade
compaction, even thickness slabs, low-slump concrete,
straight bulkhead lines, and control cuts spaced 24 to 30 times
the slab thickness.
Common mistakes in concrete floor slab construction can be avoided with proper
base preparation, mix design, placement, finishing, and curing. If these steps are performed
correctly, the owner can expect an attractive, durable product.
Standard concrete floor slab thickness in residential construction is 4 inches. Five to
six inches is recommended if the concrete will receive occasional heavy loads, such as motor
homes or garbage trucks.
To prepare the base, cut the ground level to the proper depth to allow for the slab
thickness. Remove all organic material and large hard objects such as stones and tree roots
to a depth of at least 4 inches. If building up the grade is necessary, use gravel or sandy soil,
and compact the final base with a vibratory plate or similar device. The edge forms may be
any straight material that can be secured into position. Consider plastic or metal forms if
consistently straight lumber is not available. Set a string line using grade stakes or batter
boards to establish a square, level reference before positioning the formwork.
As for the concrete mix, it must meet compressive strength requirements (usually
3000 pounds per square inch) without measures that cause excessive shrinkage. Because
water increases shrinkage and cracking, a plasticizer is preferable to achieve desired slump.
Also, consider including fibers to control plastic shrinkage cracking. Higher strength and
entrained air may be required for exterior slabs exposed to freezing weather or deicing
chemicals. When in doubt ask the concrete supplier for a recommended mix.
Always avoid adding water at the jobsite in excess of 1 to 2 gallons per cubic yard. If
additional slump is truly necessary, ask the mixer truck driver how much water can be
added without taking the concrete out of specification.
Distribute the concrete around the slab area as close to its final position as possible,
and then rake it into position. Consolidate low-slump mixes with a handheld vibrator or use
a vibratory screed. Finish with the minimum force and strokes of the float necessary to
achieve a smooth surface.
Create control joints no farther apart than 24 to 30 times the slab thickness and at no
time greater than 15 feet along both the width and length of the slab by pressing a 1-inch
deep grooving tool into the surface. Joint spacing greater than 15 feet requires the use of
load transfer devices such as dowels or dowel plates. For slabs that require long joint
spacing or no joints, steel reinforcement is recommended. It will increase the potential for
random cracking, but will hold cracks tightly to ensure good structural performance.
Proper curing conditions are critical, and the curing method must be put in place as
soon as the finished surface can resist damage. The concrete must not be allowed to freeze
or dry out. Place a curing compound over the surface, or provide appropriate moist curing.
If there is a risk of freezing, cover the slab with an insulator, such as insulating
blankets or a 4-inch-thick layer of straw that is weighted down to prevent it from blowing
away. Leave the insulator in place until the concrete achieves a strength of at least 500 psi.
This usually occurs within a few days.
