TABLE OF CONTENTS

S.NO PARTICULARS PAGE NO.

1 COLOUR FASTNESS TEST 2

o COLOUR FASTNESS TO CROCKING/ RUBBING 3

o COLOUR FASTNESS TO WASHING 8

o COLOUR FASTNESS TO LIGHT 10

2 ABRASION RESISTANCE TEST 12

3 PILLING RESISTANCE TEST 14

4 FLAMABILITY TEST 17

5 DRAPABILITY TEST 19

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 EXPERIMENT 1: COLOUR FASTNESS OF THE FABRIC

Colour fastness is one of the important factors in case of buyer’s demand. The outstandingly
important property of a dyed material is the fastness of the shade of colour. Colour fastness
refers to the resistance of colour to fade or bleed of a dyed or printed textile material to
various types of influences e.g. water, light, rubbing, washing, perspiration etc. to which they
are normally exposed in textile manufacturing and in daily use. We have written a lot of
articles on colour fastness.
Standards of Colour Fastness:
1. AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colourists) technical manual:
Describes 66 numbers of different colour fastness tests.

2. SDC (Society of Dyers and Colourists):

In 1927, SDC (Europe) made fastness test committee.

3. ISO (International Organization for Standardization):

In 1947, ISO made colour subcommittee. ISO also grades the fastness:
For light fastness: 1~8
For other fastness: 1~5

Factors Affecting the Colour Fastness Properties:

1. The chemical nature of the fibre. For example, cellulosic fibres dyed with reactive or vat
dyes will show good fastness properties. Protein fibres dyed with acid mordant and
reactive dyes will achieve good fastness properties and so on. That is to say compatibility
of dye with the fibre is very important.
2. The molecular structure (e.g.) of a dye molecule: If the dye molecule is larger in size, it
will be tightly entrapped inside the inter-polymer chain space of a fibre. Thus, the
fastness will be better.
3. The manner in which the dye is bonded to the fibre or the physical form present.
4. The amount of dye present in the fibre i.e. depth of shade. A deep shade will be less fat
than a pale or light shade.
5. The presence of other chemicals in the material.
6. The actual conditions prevailing during exposure.

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 1.1: COLOUR FASTNESS TO RUBBING TEST

THEORY
Rubbing colour fastness refers to the ability to sustain original colour of dyed fabrics when
rubbing.
There are two types of colour fastness to rubbing –
• Dry Colourfastness to rubbing
Dry rubbing colour fastness refers to the situation of fading and staining of dyed fabric when
rubbed with a standard white cloth.
• Wet Colourfastness to rubbing
Wet rubbing colour fastness refers to the situation of fading and staining of dyed fabric when
rubbed with a standard white cloth which water content is 95% to 105%.
The evaluation of Rubbing colour fastness depends on the degree of staining of white cloth.
After testing, the white cloth is compared to staining sample cards to measure staining
fastness. Rubbing colour fastness, same as washing colour fastness, divide into 5 grades and
9 files, among which grade 5 is the best and grade 1 is the worst. The friction fading of fabric
is to make dye fall off caused by friction. Wet rubbing is influenced by both external force and
water, so it is about one level lower than dry rubbing.
Rubbing Fastness depends on:
• Nature of the Colour
• Depth of the Shade
Construction of the Fabric Nature of the colour Each colour either it is pigment
,Reactive ,Disperse or direct has its own fastness properties to rubbing. There are some
colours like black, Red, Burgundy, Navy blue which have poor Colour fastness properties
because of their chemical structure.
Like Black colour is a carbon base colour and the particle size of carbon is large than the other
colours that's why its rubbing properties are poor. Similarly, red and blue are in the same
case. So, to improve the colour fastness we add more binder to improve the fastness
properties of these colours. It doesn't mean that we cannot achieve the best results with
these colours. The required results can achieve but production cost will be increase. On the
other hand, the construction of the fabric also effects the fastness properties.

Construction of the instrument – CROCKMETER

The construction of the tester is shown below:
1. Base of the instrument
2. Specimen fixed on the base
3. Clips to hold the specimen flat on the base
4. rubbing finger
5. rubbing cotton cloth at the lower end
6. distance showing the 10-cm track

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7. Weight on the rubber finger

Crockmeter and schematic diagram of crockmeter

Procedure
Sample preparation:
Fix the test specimen to the rubbing device by means of clamps such that the long direction
of the specimen follows the track of the device.

Procedure for dry method:

• Dry rubbing cloth is fixed flat in place of over the end of the finger of the device.
• Fix the test specimen to the rubbing device by means of clamps such that the long
direction of the specimen follows the track of the device.
• Operate the apparatus and rub the test specimen to and fro in a straight line along the
track to 10 times with the downward force of 9 Newton’s.
• Remove the test specimen out and compare it with the standard fabric for staining test.
Assign the rating by using the grey scale for staining.
• Each test is conducted for warp and weft way directions of the fabric.

Procedure for wet method:

• Fix the test specimen to the rubbing device by means of clamps such that the long
direction of the specimen follows the track of the device.
• A standard cloth is wetted for 10 min. in a disc containing distilled water to take-up about
100%.

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 • Then it is fixed flat over the end of the finger of the testing device.
• Operate the apparatus and rub the test specimen to and fro in a straight line along the
track to 10 times with the downward force of 9 Newton’s.
• Remove the test specimen out and compare it with the standard fabric for staining test.
Assign the rating by using the grey scale for staining.
• Each test is conducted for warp and weft way directions of the fabric.

Evaluation of Colour Fastness To Rubbing

The composite specimens containing the specimen is evaluated with the grey scale for.
• Change in colour
• Staining

Grey scale for change in colour

Grey scale for staining

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 EXPERIMENT

Aim- to determine a coloured material’s resistance to rubbing.

Material Required- template, fabric, scissors, grey scale for assessing staining, distilled
water
Apparatus Required- Crockmeter
It consists of the following features:
• A flat base to which the test specimen is fixed so as to be free from slack that may cause
folds and wrinkles during rubbing.
• A rubbing finger comprising a cylinder of 16mm diameter.

OBSERVATIONS AND RESULT

Particulars Dry rubbing Wet rubbing

Staining 5 4/5

Change in colour 5 5

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 1.2: COLOUR FASTNESS TO WASHING TEST

THEORY
Colour fatness to washing means, A specimen of the textile, in contact with one or two
specified adjacent fabrics, is mechanically agitated under described conditions of time and
temperature in a soap solution, then rinsed and dried. The change in colour of the specimen
and the staining of the adjacent fabric are assessed with the grey scales.

Instrument used - Launderometer

1. Standard picture of
Lauderometer
2. container and temperate
and other adjustments.
3. Inside of a launderometer

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Procedure
• As per the specifications, the test specimens of size 10 x 4 cm are taken. Then two pieces
of adjacent fabrics of 10 x 4 cm (as per the given specifications and fabrics type) are taken.
• Then a composite specimen is prepared by attaching the test specimen with an undyed
cloth and stitched around at the selvedge.
• Necessary soap soda solution is prepared as per the M: L ratio 1 :50. The specimen is kept
in the container of the washing machine with the soap or soap soda solution.
• The containers are closed and washing is carried for 30 minutes with 40 o C. Remove the
composite specimen, rinse it twice in cold water and cold running water for ten minutes.
• Evaluate the change in colour of the treated test specimen in comparison with an
untreated piece of the same sample using the Standard Grey Scale.

Evaluation of Colour Fastness To washing

The composite specimens containing the specimen is evaluated with the grey scale for.
• Change in colour
• Staining

Grey scale for change in colour

scale for staining

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Recipe:
Sodium Perborate - 1 gm/litre
ECE Phosphate - 4 gm/litre

EXPERIMENT
Aim- to determine a coloured material’s resistance to washing
Material Required- template, fabric, scissors, sewing thread and needle, grey scale for
assessing staining.
Apparatus Required- Launderometer, stainless steel container and balls.

Observations and result

Particulars Observation

Staining 5
Change in colour 4/5

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 1.3: COLOUR FASTNESS TO LIGHT TEST

THEORY
The purpose of Colour fastness to light test is to determine how much the colour will fade
when exposed to a known light source. It is an off line quality assurance system. Generally,
man wears the fabric and goes outside of the home for doing their job. In day; sun light falls
on the fabric surface. So, it needs to know how much protection ability have a fabric to sun
light. It is determined by an experiment called colour fastness to light.
This test measures the resistance to fading of dyed textile when exposed to day light. The test
sample is exposed to light for a certain time which is about 24 hours to 72 hours or by
customer/buyer demand and compare the change with original unexposed sample the
changes are assessed by Blue Scales.

Instrument used – MBTL Light Fastness tester

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Procedure

• Cut a swatch of fabric according to the length and width with the help of the template
and attach the specimen holder
• Then the holder is set into the Microsol light fastness tester.
• Continue the experiment for 72 hours.
• After 72 hours, take specimen out of the light fastness tester and compare and assess the
sample with the Blue Wool Scale.

Evaluation of Colour Fastness To Light

The sample is evaluated using the blue wool scale. On the Blue Wool Scale, the lightfastness is
rated between 1–8. 1 being very poor and 8 being excellent lightfastness. In grey scale the
lightfastness is rated between 1–5. 1 being very poor and 5 being excellent lightfastness.

EXPERIMENT

Aim- measures the resistance to fading of dyed textile when exposed to light.
Material Required- template, fabric, scissors, blue wool scale for assessing colour fading.
Apparatus Required- MBTL Light fastness tester

Observations and result

Particulars Observation

Change in colour 7

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 EXPERIMENT 2: ABRASION RESISTANCE TEST OF FABRIC SAMPLE

THEORY
Abrasion resistance is the ability of a fabric to resist surface wear caused by flat rubbing
contact with another material. There are two different test methods commonly used by the
textile industry to assess abrasion resistance: Wyzenbeek and Martindale. Because both of
these test methods are limited to measuring flat abrasion resistance of a textile, they do not
consider edge abrasion or other types of surface wear that may occur in actual upholstered
applications. We have used martindale abrasion tester for conducting our experiment.

Instrument used - Martindale abrasion tester

The description of the Martindale abrasion tester is explained below:

• This apparatus gives a controlled amount of abrasion between fabric surfaces.

• Abrasion is given at comparatively low pressures in continuously changing directions.
• In this test, circular specimens are abraded under known pressure.
• This abrasion is given by a motion that is the resultant of two simple harmonic motions at
right angles to one another.
• The fabric is abraded against a standard fabric called abradant.
• Abrasion resistance is estimated by visual appearance or by loss in mass of the specimen.

Procedure

1. A specimen of 38mm in diameter are cut by using the appropriate cutter and weighted.
2. Then they are mounted in the specimen holders with a circle of standard foam
backing behind the fabric. The specimens must be placed flat against the mounting block.
3. The test specimen holders with the specimens are placed on the abradant.

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4. A spindle is inserted through the top plate and the correct weight is placed on top of
this.
5. The standard abradant should be replaced at the start of each test and also replaced
after each 50,000 cycles if the test is continued beyond this number.
6. While the abradant is replaced it is held flat by a weight and the retaining ring is
tightened.
7. Behind the abradant, there is a standard backing felt which is replaced at longer
intervals.
8. After appropriate clamping of specimen on the holders, required numbers of cycles of
abrasion is applied.
9. Check the weight of the fabric after the test is complete.

Evaluation of the test

The samples are evaluated as a percentage of weight loss.

Initial weight - final weight /initial weight*100

EXPERIMENT

Aim- To test the abrasion resistance of the fabric

Material Required- Fabric sample, pen, scale, pair of scissors and template.

Apparatus- Martindale abrasion tester.

Observation and result-

Initial weight 0.09g

Final weight 0.07g

Percentage weight loss 22.23%

(0.09-0.07/0.09*100)

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 EXPERIMENT 3: PILLING TEST OF FABRIC SAMPLE

THEORY
Pilling is a fabric surface characterized by little pills of entangled fibre clinging to the cloth
surface and giving the garment unsightly appearance. The pills are formed during wear and
washing by the entanglement of loose fibres which protrude from the fabric surface.

Measurement of fabric pilling:

a) Objective method:
Counting the number of pills or by removing and weighting them.
Time consuming, also does not take into account the degree of colour contrast with the ground.
b) Subjective method:
By comparing it with either standard sample or with photograph or by the use of a written
scale of severity.

Instrument used – ICI Pilling box

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Procedure
1. A specimen (125mm x 125mm) is cut from fabric.
2. The specimens are then stitched face to face and then turned inside out.
3. The fabric tube is then mounted on the rubber tubes.
4. The loose ends are taped with PVC tape.
5. The samples are then tumbled together in a cork-lined box 9'' x 9'' x 9'' and allowed for
18000 revolution cycles.
6. The specimens are taken out of rubber tube and then the samples are evaluated in a
viewing apparatus against photographic standards

Evaluation of resistance to pilling

The tested sample is then evaluated using the grey scale matching.

Evaluation of the pilling test

• Grade 5 - No or very weak formation of pills.

• Grade 4 - Weak formations of pills.
• Grade 3 - Moderate formations of pills.
• Grade 2 - Obvious formations of pills.
• Grade 1 - Severe formation of pills.

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 EXPERIMENT

Aim- To test the pilling resistance of the fabric

Material Required- Fabric sample, pen, scale, pair of scissors, sewing thread, PVC tape
and template.

Apparatus- ICI pilling box tester

Observation and result-

PARTICULARS OBSERVATION

Grey scale matching Grade 5

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 EXPERIMENT 4: FLAMMABILITY TEST OF FABRIC SAMPLE

THEORY
The flammability test consists of a standard flame which is lowered onto the fabric sample
at a 45-degree angle for one second. The flammability of the sample is evaluated using the
time it takes the flame to travel along the test specimen and the characteristics of the burn.

Instrument used – 45-degree flammability testing

Procedure
• Secure samples into frame using two clips on each side
• Timer is set at zero.
• Turn ON main power switch.

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• Select time of Auto Impingement (1, 5, 10sec, or manual). For this purpose, we will use
the time of 5 sec.
• Press start button. Impingement is automatic and the flame is applied for a period of 5
sec.
• Timer will start automatically. Starting upon application of the flame and ending when
the weight is released by the burning of the stop cord.
• Record results.
• When testing is done, switch power OFF. Turn off gas supply.

Evaluation of the flammability test

The arithmetic mean is calculated for flame-spread time of the six (or twelve) specimens.
Add all the times together and then divide by six (or twelve).

Interpretation of Results The following three classes are used by the Consumer Product
Safety Commission to interpret results for a similar test:

Class I: These textiles are considered by the trade to be generally acceptable for apparel and
are limited to the following:
• Textiles that do not have a raised fibre surface but have an average time of flame spread
in the test of 3.5 seconds or more.
• Textiles having a raised fibre surface that have an average time of flame spread in the
test of more than 7 seconds or that burn with a surface flash (in less than 7 seconds) in
which the base fabric is not affected by the flame.
• Textiles for which no specimen ignites.

Class II: These textiles are considered by the trade to have flammability characteristics for
apparel intermediate between Class I and Class III fabrics are limited to the following:
• Textiles having a raised fibre surface that have an average time of flame spread in the
test of 4 to 7 seconds and in which the base fabric is ignited, charred, or melted.

Class III: These textiles are considered by the trade to be unsuitable for apparel and are
limited to the following:
• Textiles that do not have a raised fibre surface that have an average time of flame
spread in the test of less than 3.5 seconds.
• Textiles having a raised fibre surface that have an average time of flame spread in the
test of less than 4 seconds in which the base is ignited, charred, or melted.

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 EXPERIMENT 5: DRAPABILITY TEST OF FABRIC SAMPLE
THEORY
Drape is the term used to describe the way a fabric hangs under its own weight. It has an
important bearing on how good a garment looks in use. The draping qualities required from
a fabric will differ completely depending on its end use, therefore a given value for drape
cannot be classified as either good or bad. Knitted fabrics are relatively floppy and garments
made from them will tend to follow the body contours. Woven fabrics are relatively stiff when
compared with knitted fabrics so that they are used in tailored clothing where the fabric
hangs away from the body and disguises its contours. Measurement of a fabric s drape is
meant to assess its ability to do this and also its ability to hang in graceful curves.

Instrument used – Fabric Drape Tester (drape-o-meter) TF118

Procedure
• A fabric specimen is attached to the edge of a horizontal circular disc movable vertically, the
specimen width equals circumference of the disc.
• Two support discs of 15 cm in diameter are mounted on the top of vertical shaft and fabric sample
of 25 cm in diameter is placed between them provided that the centre of both discs and fabric
sample is the same.
• The movable graduated disc is fixed in the vertical shaft at a height of 1 cm from base. The
perimeter of graduated disc. The two support discs, vertical shaft, and graduated disc go around
together as one unit. The vertical shaft and its fixed group are mounted and allowed to rotate over
the base of the tester.
• The instrument setup consists of ammonium paper below the lower plate and image of the
mounted fabric sample (25 cm in diameter) placed on a rigid support disc (15 cm in diameter)
which is fixed over a vertical shaft with its pedestal (13 cm in height). The smaller rigid support
disc (15 cm in diameter).

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Evaluation of the drapability test
The stiffer a fabric is, the larger is the area of its shadow compared with the unsupported
area of the fabric.

DC = Area under the draped fabric – Area of support disc

Area of the specimen – Area of the support disc

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