CBLM Masonry
CBLM Masonry
PACKAGE
References/Further Reading
Self Check
Information Sheet
Learning Experiences
Module
Module Content
Content
Module
List of Competencies
Content
Module Content
Module Content
Front Page
In our efforts to standardize CBLM, the
above parts are recommended for use
in Competency Based Training (CBT) in
Technical Education and Skills
Development Authority (TESDA)
Technology Institutions. The next
sections will show you the components
and features of each part.
Sector : CONSTRUCTION
• Work through all the information and complete the activities in each section.
• Read information sheets and complete the self-check. Suggested references are
included to supplement the materials provided in this module.
• Most probably, your trainer will also be your supervisor or manager. He is there
to support you and show you the correct way to do things.
• You will be given plenty of opportunities to ask questions and practice on the
job. Make sure you practice your new skills during regular work shifts. This way,
you will improve your speed, memory and your confidence.
• Use the Self-Checks, Operation Sheets or Task or Job Sheets at the end of each
section to test your own progress. Use the Performance Criteria Checklist or
Procedural Checklist located after the sheet to check your own performance.
• When you feel confident that you have had sufficient practice, ask your Trainer
to evaluate you. The results of your assessment will be recorded in your
Progress Chart and Accomplishment Chart.
You need to complete this module before you can perform the next module,
LEARNING OUTCOMES:
At the end of this module you MUST be able to:
Prepare for laying brick/block for structure.
Lay-out/establish brick/block structure location
Perform laying brick/block for structure
Complete laying of brick/block for structure
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
1. Plans as per job requirement are read and interpreted.
2. Materials, tools and equipment are selected and prepared consistent with job
requirements.
3. Materials are properly stored/stockpiled and freed from foreign matters.
4. Reference building lines are correctly identified/ located as per job requirements.
5. Location of brick/block structure based on reference building lines is established using
batter board at ±3 mm tolerance for proper alignment, squareness and dimension.
6. Lay-out of brick/block structure is correctly marked as per job requirements.
7. Bricks and concrete block laid on the line at minimum allowance at 1/16 in (2 mm).
8. Appropriate PPE is selected and used in line with job requirements.
9. Horizontal/vertical guide for brick/block is installed according to job specification.
10. Reinforcing bar/dowel is installed according required to job specifications.
11. Mortars are spread on the base/edge of brick/block mortar according to job
specifications.
12. Bricks/blocks are positioned/laid according to design/specifications/locations.
13. Constant checking of plumbness is done during brick/block laying.
14. Formworks are installed in accordance with building plan.
15. Cast-in place concrete structures are constructed according to design and job
specifications.
16. Work site is cleaned and kept in safe state in line with OHS Regulations.
17. Unexpected situations are responded accordingly.
Contents:
Assessment Criteria
Conditions
Assessment Method:
1. Interview(oral questionnaire)
2. Written examination
3. Practical demonstration
4. Direct observation
Module 3.3-1 - Appropriate PPE is selected and used in line with job
requirements.
Learning outcomes:
Selection and use of appropriate Personal Protective Equipment.
Learning Activity:
Selecting and using of appropriate Personal Protective Equipment.
Introduction :
Hazards exist in every workplace in many different forms: sharp edges, falling
objects, flying sparks, chemicals, noise and a myriad of other potentially
dangerous situations. The Occupational Safety and Health Administration
(OSHA) requires that employers protect their employees from workplace hazards
that can cause injury.
Detailed Information:
Hearing protection
Head protection
Eye protection
Foot protection
Hand and arm protection
Body protection
Respiratory protection
PPE is defined in the Personal Protective Equipment at Work Regulations as: ‘All
equipment (including clothing affording protection against the weather) which is
intended to be worn or held by a person at work which protects them against one
or more risks to their health and safety’.
PPE includes equipment such as safety footwear, hard hats, high visibility
waistcoats, goggles, life jackets, respirators and safety harnesses.
If items of Personal Protective Equipment are required they must be provided free
of charge by the employer.
PPE must always be regarded as a ‘last resort’ to protect against risks to safety
and health. Engineering controls and safe systems of work must always be
considered first.
For example, it may be possible to do the job using methods that will not require
the use of PPE.
If this is not possible, more effective safeguards should be put in place. For
example, fixed screens could be provided rather than individual eye protection.
There are a number of reasons why PPE must be considered as a ‘last resort’:
PPE only protects the person wearing it, whereas measures controlling
the risk at source protect everyone in the workplace
Theoretical maximum levels of protection are difficult to achieve and the
actual level of protection is difficult to assess. Effective protection is
only achieved by selecting suitable PPE and if it is correctly fitted,
maintained and used
PPE may restrict the wearer to some extent by limiting mobility or
visibility, or by requiring additional weight to be carried. Thus creating
additional hazards.
In addition to identifying the need for PPE, it is essential that the right type and
grade of PPE is specified and provided.
The various standards for PPE (e.g. hard hats EN397) are too numerous to list
here on this website. Within the standards there may also be various
subdivisions to denote the standard of protection or type (e.g. ear
muffs/defenders EN352-1, ear plugs EN352-2, helmet mounted muffs/defender
EN352-3).
Since 1 July 1995, all new PPE must be ‘CE’ marked. The CE mark signifies that
the PPE satisfies certain basic/minimum safety requirements.
Suitability of PPE
To be able to choose the right type of PPE, the hazards involved in the task or
work environment must be considered carefully. PPE must also meet the needs
of the individual.
The following factors should be considered when assessing the suitability of PPE:
is the PPE appropriate for the risk involved and conditions at the place where
exposure may occur? e.g. goggles are not suitable when full-face protection is
required
does the PPE prevent or adequately control the risks involved without increasing
the overall risk? e.g. gloves should not be worn when using a pillar drill, due to
the increased risk of entanglement
can the PPE be adjusted to fit the wearer correctly? e.g. if a person wears
glasses, ear defenders may not provide a proper seal to protect against noise
hazards
has the state of health of those using it been taken into account?
what are the needs of the job and the demands it places on the wearer? How long
will the PPE need to be worn? What are the requirements for visibility and
communication?
if more than one item of PPE is being worn, are they compatible? For example,
does a particular type of respirator make it difficult for eye protection to fit
properly?
The extent of information, instruction and/or training will vary with the
complexity and performance of the kit. For example, a full Breathing Apparatus
kit will require more training to use properly than a disposable face mask.
Maintaining PPE
The self-employed also have a duty to obtain and use the appropriate PPE
wherever there is a risk to their health and safety that cannot be adequately
controlled by alternative measures.
The only exception to this is for those who are classified as self-employed for tax
reasons, but who otherwise work in an employee-employer relationship. In this
case it will be for the employer to provide suitable PPE.
Types of PPE
Date Developed: Document No.
February 11, 2013 Check by:
Date Revised:
MASONRY NCII Page 16
Developed by:
Juan R. Asuncion
Danilo M. Bersaba
Revision # 01
Hearing protection
Head protection
Turban-wearing Sikhs are exempt from the requirement to wear hard hats on
construction sites by virtue of The Employment Act 1989.
Eye protection
Foot protection
Tasks where hand and arm protection may be required include: the manual
handling of abrasive, sharp or pointed objects, work with vibrating equipment
such as pneumatic drills and chainsaws, construction and outdoor work, work
with chemicals and other hazardous substances (e.g. bodily fluids) and work
with hot or cold materials.
In order to eliminate the risk of ill health through exposure to latex, a number of
organizations have phased out the use of latex gloves replacing them with nitrile.
Body protection
Tasks where body protection may be required include: work with hazardous
substances, work next to the highway or other areas with moving transport or
vehicles (e.g. construction sites), outdoor work, forestry and grounds
maintenance work.
Respiratory protection
6.
a. Gloves
b. Hard hat
c. Safety shoes
d. Face shield
e. Safety goggles
1. Hard hat Class B is hard hats provide impact and penetration resistance
along with limited voltage protection (up to 2,200 volts).
2. Hard hat Class C hard hats provide lightweight comfort and impact protection
but offer no protection from electrical hazards.
3. Goggles. These are tight-fitting eye protection that completely cover the eyes,
eye sockets and the facial area immediately surrounding the eyes and provide
protection from impact, dust and splashes.
A. Matching Type
1. E
2. D
3. B
4. A
5. C
6.
B.
1. False
2. True
3. True
C. ENUMERATION
A. Personal Protective Equipment
1. Hard hat
2. Goggles
3. Safety shoes
4. Gloves
5. Harness
6. Cover-all
7. Face shield
8. Ear muff
9. Mask
Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Read and interpret plans as per job required.
2. Select and prepared materials, tools and equipment consistent with
job requirements .
3. Properly execute the project according to the plans as per job
required.
Learning outcomes:
Procedures in installing horizontal/vertical guide for brick/block
Learning Activity:
Procedures in installing horizontal/vertical guide for brick/block
Introduction :
It is very important that horizontal/vertical guide is install properly according to
the standard requirement and according to the plan.
A B
A total measurement of the house or a. Building Lines
the building.
Reinforcement for the concrete b. Stake
hallow blocks, to make it strong.
This is the tools we use to secure c. Dowell
reference line horizontaly.
A piece of wood, it hold the butter d. Plum bub
board and it always use for lay-out.
This tools are always use to keep our e. Level
work straight vertically.
3. To prevent forms from sticking to the concrete, they are treated with:
a. fat
b. paint
c. form oil
d. wax
A. Matching Type
1. A
2. C
3. E
4. B
5. D
1. D
2. D
3. C
4. B
5. D
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….
1. Secure isometric drawing for interpretation and
identification of materials
Block dowels.
When placing a concrete foundation which will have concrete masonry
units (block) erected on it, you will usually find the plans require installing block
dowels, or vertical rebar to reinforce cells at a required spacing to give the
subsequent block wall sufficient strength to withstand conditions to which it will
be exposed, or to help it support loads it will carry as an overall part of the
structure you are building. These bars are tied to the foundation rebar (footing
bars) in a location that will place them in the center of individual block cells. For
them to be placed correctly, you will need to establish the wall line, then
determine the spacing of these cells. If your layout begins at a corner, using
8X16 inch regular block, you can place the first dowel 4 inches inside the
outside wall line, 4 inches from the corner, then space additional bars at their
required distances in multiples of 8 inches. For example, at 16, 24, or 32 inch
centers. This is known as blockwork spacing.
Note that in structural concrete, other types of imbeds and inserts may be
required. Place rebar in such a manner as to allow installation of anchor bolts,
sleeves, embedded weld plates, inserts, or other items in their respective correct
locations without interference. In general terms, these items require more precise
positioning, so offsetting one or two rebars may be required.
Chair or support your rebar. Once the mat or cage is assembled, you must hold
it in position so the the concrete will cover it completely. Rebar chairs or concrete
brick are often used for this purpose. Place these positioners at a spacing that
will not allow the rebar to bend or deflect enough to reduce the coverage you
wish to obtain with the concrete you place in you forms. For a inch thick footing,
the rebar mat is usually placed about 4 inches from the bottom of the concrete,
and side clearances range from 2 to 4 inches.
Cap or otherwise protect any exposed bars while working near them. Rebar
that is sheared, or mechanically cut has very sharp surfaces at the location of
these cuts. Construction workers have suffered serious injuries and have also
been killed when they have fallen on projecting rebar dowels. Special rod caps
made of high impact plastic with a metal plate embedded in them are required by
the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA)
Before you place reinforcing steel in forms, all form oiling should be completed.
Oil on reinforcing bars should be avoided because it reduces the bond between
the bars and the concrete. Use a piece of burlap to remove rust, mill scale,
grease, mud, or other foreign matter from the bars. A light film of rust or mill
scale is not objectionable.
Bars are marked to show where they will fit. You may work according to either
one of the two most-used systems for marking bars; however, the system you use
1. All bars in one type of member are given the mark of that member. This
system is used for column bars, beam bars, footing bars, and so on.
2. The bars are marked in greater detail. These marks show exactly where the
bar is to be placed. In addition to the type member (that is, beam (B), wall (W),
column (C), and so on), the marks show the floor on which the bars are to be
placed and the size and individual number of each particular bar. Instead of
showing the bar size by its diameter measurement, the mark shows the bar size
in code by eighths. The examples shown below show the second type of marking
system.
Tie wire is used to hold rebar in place to ensure that when concrete is placed the
bars do not shift out of position. Sixteen gauge wire is used to tie
Table 7-6.-Multishearing
reinforcing bars. About 12 pounds (5.4 kg) of wire is required to tie an average
ton (0.9 tome) of bars. NOTE: Tie wire adds nothing to the strength of the steel.
A number of different types of ties can be used with reinforcing bars; some are
more effective than others. Figure 7-17 shows six types of ties that are identified
below according to the letters of the alphabet used to show individual ties.
A. SNAP TIE or SIMPLE TIE. The wire is simply wrapped once around the two
crossing bars in a diagonal manner with the two ends on top. These are twisted
B. WALL TIE. This tie is made by going about 1 1/2 times around the vertical
bar, then diagonally around the intersection, twisting the two ends together until
the connection is tight, but without breaking the tie wire, then cutting off the
excess. The wall tie is used on light vertical mats of steel.
D. SADDLE TIE. The wires pass halfway around one of the ban on either side of
the crossing bar and are brought squarely or diagonally around the crossing bar
with the ends twisted together and cut off. This tie is used on special locations,
such as on walls.
E. SADDLE TIE WITH TWIST. This tie is a variation of the saddle tie. The tie
wire is carried completely around one of the bars, then squarely across and
halfway around the other, either side of the crossing bars, and finally brought
together and twisted either squarely or diagonally across. The saddle tie with
twist is used for heavy mats that are to be lifted by a crane.
F. CROSS TIE or FIGURE-EIGHT TIE. This type of tie has the advantage of
causing little or no twist in the bars.
The proper location for the reinforcing bars is usually given on drawings (table 7-
7). In order for the structure to withstand the loads it must carry, place the steel
in the position shown. Secure the bars in position in such a way that concrete-
placing operations will not move them. This can be accomplished by the use of
the reinforcing bar supports shown in figures 7-18, 7-19, and 7-20.
The proper coverage of bars in the concrete is very important to protect the bars
from fire hazards, possibility of corrosion, and exposure to weather. When not
specified, minimum standards given below and in figure 7-21 should be
observed.
WALLS-2 inches for bars larger than No. 5, where concrete surfaces, after
removal of forms, would be exposed to the weather or be in contact with the
ground; 1 1/2 inches for No. 5 bars and smaller; 3/4 inch from the faces of all
walls not exposed directly to the ground or the weather.
BEAMS AND GIRDERS-1 1/2 inches to the nearest bars on the top, bottom, and
sides.
JOISTS AND SLABS-3/4 inch on the top, bottom, and sides of joists and on the
top and the bottom of slabs where concrete surfaces are not exposed directly to
the ground or the weather.
NOTE: All measurements are from the outside of the bar to the face of the
concrete, NOT from the main steel, unless otherwise specified.
Footings and other principal structural members that are against the ground
should have at least 3
inches (76.2 mm) of concrete between the steel and the ground. If the concrete
surface is to be in contact with the ground or exposed to the weather after
removal of the forms, the protective covering of concrete over the steel should be
2 inches (50.8 mm). It maybe reduced to 1 1/2inches (38.1 mm) for beams and
columns and 3/4 inch (19.5 mm) for slabs and interior wall surfaces, but it
should be 2 inches (50.8 mm) for all exterior wall surfaces. This measurement is
taken from the main rebar, not the stirrups or the ties.
NOTE: Where splices in reinforcing steel are not dimensioned on the drawings,
the bars should be lapped not less than 30 times the bar diameter nor less than
12 inches (table 7-7). The stress in a tension bar
To lap-weld wire fabric/wire mesh, you can use a number of methods, two of
which are the end lap and the side lap. In the end lap method, the wire mesh is
lapped by overlapping one full mesh, measured from the ends of the longitudinal
wires in one piece to the ends of the longitudinal wires in the adjacent piece, and
then tying the two pieces at 1-foot 6-inch (45.0 cm) centers with a snap tie. In
the side lap method, the two longitudinal side wires are placed one alongside and
overlapping the other and then are tied with a snap tie every 3 feet (.9 m).
Reinforcing bars are in tension and therefore should never be bent around an
inside corner beams. They can pull straight through the concrete cover. Instead,
they should overlap and extend to the far face for anchorage with 180-degree
hooks and proper concrete coverage (fig. 7-23).
The bars can also be spliced by metal are welding but only if called for in the
plans and specifications. For bars which are placed in a vertical position, a butt
weld is preferred. The end of the bottom bar is cut
square, and the end of the top bar resting on it is cut in a bevel fashion, thus
permitting a butt weld. For bars which will bear a load in a horizontal position, a
fillet weld is preferred. Usually, the two bars are placed end to end (rather than
overlapping), and pieces of flat bar (or angle iron) are placed on either side. Fillet
welds are then made where the metals join. The welds are made to a depth of one
half of the bar diameter and for a length eight times the bar diameter.
The minimum clear distance between parallel bars in beams, footings, walls, and
floor slabs should either be 1 inch (25.4 mm) or 1 1/3 times the largest size
aggregate particle in the concrete, whichever distance is greater. In columns, the
clear distance between parallel bars should be not less than 1 1/2 times the bar
diameter or 1 1/2 times the maximum size of the coarse aggregate. Always use
the larger of the two.
The support for reinforcing steel in floor slabs is shown in figure 7-24. The height
of the slab bolster is determined by the required concrete protective cover.
Concrete blocks made of sand-cement mortar can be used in place of the slab
bolster. Wood blocks should never be used for this purpose. Highchairs (fig. 7-
18) can be obtained in heights up to 6 inches (15 cm). When a height greater
than 6 inches is required, make the chair out of No. 0, soft, annealed iron wire.
To hold the bars firmly in position, you should tie the bars together at frequent
intervals where they cross with a snapat.
Steel for column ties may be assembled with the verticals into cages by laying
the vertical bars for one side of the column horizontally across a couple of
sawhorses. The proper number of ties are slipped over the bars, the remaining
Date Developed: Document No.
February 11, 2013 Check by:
Date Revised:
MASONRY NCII Page 55
Developed by:
Juan R. Asuncion
Danilo M. Bersaba
Revision # 01
vertical bars are added, and then the ties are spaced out as required by the
placing plans. All intersections are wired together to make the assembly rigid so
that it may be hoisted and set as a unit. Figure 7-25 shows atypical column tie
assembly.
After the column is raised, it is tied to the dowels or reinforcing steel carried up
from below. This holds it firmly in position at the base. The column form is
erected and the reinforcing steel is tied to the column form at 5-foot (4.5-m)
intervals, as shown in figure 7-26.
The use of metal supports to hold beam reinforcing steel in position is shown in
figure 7-8. Note the position of the beam bolster. The stirrups are tied to the
main reinforcing steel with a snap tie. Wherever possible you should assemble
the stirrups and main reinforcing steel outside the form and then place the
assembled unit in position. Precast concrete blocks, as shown in figure 7-27,
maybe substituted for metal supports.
The horizontal and vertical bars are wired securely to each other at sufficiently
frequent intervals to make a rigid mat. Tying is required at every second or third
intersection, depending upon the size and spacing of bars, but with not less than
three ties to any one bar, and, in any case, not more than 4 to 6 feet apart in
either direction.
Steel in place in a wall. The wood block is removed when the form has been filled
up to the level of the block For high walls, ties in between the top and bottom
should be used.
Steel is placed in footings very much as it is placed in floor slabs. Stones, rather
than steel supports, may be used to support the steel at the proper distance
above the subgrade. Steel mats in small footings are generally preassembled and
placed after the forms have been set. Steel mats in large footings are constructed
in place.
Tips
Keep rebar stored on dunnage to prevent rusting, and to keep bars from
becoming buried in soft soils. Any build up of iron oxide (rust) will exacerbate
spalling later on.
Buy quality tools if you plan to do a lot of rebar tying. Cheap wire reels and pliers
won't hold up to the wear and tear of daily use.
Double check the rebar placement drawings, especially for dowels, since
misplaced dowels must be cut off, and new ones epoxied in the correct location,
at considerable expense.
Warnings
Wear the correct safety equipment for this work. Gloves are especially important
to protect the rodbuster's hands.
Rebar ends and the ends of cut tie wire can be incredibly sharp.
Date Developed: Document No.
February 11, 2013 Check by:
Date Revised:
MASONRY NCII Page 58
Developed by:
Juan R. Asuncion
Danilo M. Bersaba
Revision # 01
Impalement protection caps are required by law.
Reinforcement Detailing
cavity wall
Reinforcement placed in Units with bed joint
the bed joints of grooved reinforcement
1. D
2. D
3. A
4. C
5. A
Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Read and interpret plans as per job required.
2. Select and prepared materials, tools and equipment consistent with
job requirements .
3. Properly execute the project according to the plans as per job
required.
4. Know the different type of concrete hallow blocks.
5. Know the proper procedure of block laying.
Concrete Blocks
When building walls, blocks and bricks are primary materials. Bricks are
smaller and made of clay, although concrete bricks are also available. Blocks are
bigger, made of concrete aggregates only and can be categorized as either
masonry or fair face.
There are two types of masonry concrete blocks. Solid masonry blocks
have rough, unfinished surfaces and require plaster and paint of proper finish.
These vary in strength from 600 to 800 pounds per square inch (psi) and 1,000
to 1,200 psi. The usual sizes include: 4"x 8"x 12", 5"x 8"x 12" and 8"x 8"x12".
Hollow blocks are used for exterior south walls (facing the sun) as the
cavity within. The block decreases heat gain. The hollowness of the block
decreases he weight bearing. Capacity of the wall and they should not be used
for load bearing purposes. Sizes include 4" x 8"x 12", 5"x 8"x12" and 8"x 8" x 12".
The two types of fair face blocks are solid and cellular. Solid blocks are
steam cured, have a finish and smooth surface that do not require plaster or
paint. Available in natural, grey finish and pigmented finish in terracotta, yellow
and mud colours, they come in two sizes: 4"x 8"x 16"and 6"x 8"x 16".
NOTE :
For 200 mm and 150 mm thick blocks cement sand ratio should be 1:6 &
for 100 mm thick blocks cement sand ratio should be 1: 4
280 cm
120
cm
Here are tips and instructions on how to lay concrete blocks. Take the time
to read this article thoroughly–it will save you time and effort. This article will
also help you end up with a neater, more satisfactory installation–with far less
waste. In this article you will find information about:
1. Select the Right Blocks for the Job
2. Pouring the Footing for a Block Wall
3. Estimating Blocks and Mortar Needed
4. Preparing to Lay the Concrete Blocks
5. Laying the Concrete Blocks
This table will help you estimate the number of blocks and the amount of
mortar you'll need for your job. Use this table to help you estimate the
number of blocks and mortar needed for your project.
Before starting to lay the blocks, drive stakes into the ground and build a
form at each corner. These stakes and forms can be made from scrap
pieces of wood used on the job.
Locate the exact corner by stretching lines from one corner form to the
other as illustrated. The exact corner will be the point at which the two
lines cross.
Drop a plumb bob down from each line, both at the corner point where the
lines cross and at positions about 2' out in each direction.
Determine the exact number of blocks required for the first course by
laying out a course of block on the dry concrete. Do not use mortar for this
test run–you are merely determining the number of blocks required for the
job.
Put a furrow in the center of the mortar with a trowel. This furrow will
force the mortar to the edge of the block when it is laid.
Tap the blocks into position to make any alignment corrections while the
mortar is still wet. Never attempt to move a block after the concrete begins
to set.
Build up the corners first. Always keep the corners about a block or two
higher than other runs until you finish the job.
Keep the guidelines between the corners at all times. They will help you
keep the blocks level at all points in each course. Be careful not to knock
the lines out of alignment.
Always keep the guidelines tight. If one side gets bumped out of position,
take a minute to level it.
Use a trowel to cut away any surplus mortar. Throw the surplus mortar
back onto the mortarboard. Keep turning the mortar with your trowel
throughout the project so small portions will not harden.
Use a piece of 3/4" ply-board or the bed of a wheelbarrow as a
mortarboard. Always wet the board or the wheelbarrow bed before placing
the mortar in it.
Never mix more mortar than you can use in about an hour and a half or
two hours. On a hot day, keep the mortar covered with a piece of plastic to
hold in moisture.
Use as much water as the mortar will take and still remain elastic.
Continue to stagger the blocks–working from the corners–and build the
wall to the desired height.
Take time to level each course. Use a level that is at least 3' long.
Lay all blocks with the thicker end of the face shell up.
Keep a leveling string at the top of each course on each run of block.
Date Developed: Document No.
February 11, 2013 Check by:
Date Revised:
MASONRY NCII Page 76
Developed by:
Juan R. Asuncion
Danilo M. Bersaba
Revision # 01
Measure both the length and the height of the wall after every two or three
runs. Also, hold your level diagonally along the block corners to check for
accuracy. If the blocks are being laid accurately, the corners will strike
evenly along a level held in this position.
After all the blocks are laid and while the mortar can still be pressed with
the fingers, take a jointer and finish the mortar joints to the appearance
desired. Keep the jointer wet during this part of the job.
You may need to add reinforcing rods to walls built extremely high or in
areas where ground pressures may vary.
Lay 1/4" reinforcing rods as illustrated, with the ends overlapped 2" to 3".
Mortar can be placed directly over the rods.
If wood framing will be attached to the top run, set an anchor bolt every 3'
to 4' in the last run.
3. Hollow blocks are used for exterior south walls (facing the sun) as the cavity
within. The block increases heat gain? _____________
4. Blocks are bigger, made of concrete aggregates only and can be categorized as
either masonry or fair face? _________
5. When building walls, blocks and bricks are primary materials. Bricks are
smaller and made of clay, although concrete bricks are also available? _____
Steps/Procedure:
1. Secure isometric drawing for interpretation and identification of
materials.
2. List down all the tools, material and equipment need to use
based on the given drawing and make a request to withdraw
from the store room.
3. Read and follow the operating procedure of the electrically
operated equipment as well as the manually operated
equipment.
4. Follow the entire safety requirement during the operation of the
equipment.
5. Check all the tools, materials and equipment if it is in good
condition before performing the job.
6. Wear an appropriate PPE for the particular job to do.
7. Make a lay-out for the project according to the plan
requirement.
8. Make stake and follow building lines.
9. Make a concrete foundation for the wall according to the plan
requirement.
10. Mixed a mortar according to the mix proportion needed of the
project.
11. Lay block/brick according to the plan specification.
12. Always aligned every layer based on the nylon string.
13. Stop laying of block/brick every five (5) layer and wait to make
it strong and dry.
Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Know the importance of safety in workplace.
2. Know the right and the privilege of the workers in safety .
3. Apply all the provision in the safety regulation in workplace.
Definition
Since 1950, the International Labour Organization (ILO) and the World Health
Organization (WHO) have shared a common definition of occupational health. It
was adopted by the Joint ILO/WHO Committee on Occupational Health at its
first session in 1950 and revised at its twelfth session in 1995. The definition
reads:
"Occupational health should aim at: the promotion and maintenance of the
highest degree of physical, mental and social well-being of workers in all
occupations; the prevention amongst workers of departures from health caused
by their working conditions; the protection of workers in their employment from
risks resulting from factors adverse to health; the placing and maintenance of
the worker in an occupational environment adapted to his physiological and
psychological capabilities; and, to summarize, the adaptation of work to man and
of each man to his job.
"The main focus in occupational health is on three different objectives: (i) the
maintenance and promotion of workers’ health and working capacity; (ii) the
improvement of working environment and work to become conducive to safety
and health and (iii) development of work organizations and working cultures in a
direction which supports health and safety at work and in doing so also
promotes a positive social climate and smooth operation and may enhance
Date Developed: Document No.
February 11, 2013 Check by:
Date Revised:
MASONRY NCII Page 86
Developed by:
Juan R. Asuncion
Danilo M. Bersaba
Revision # 01
productivity of the undertakings. The concept of working culture is intended in
this context to mean a reflection of the essential value systems adopted by the
undertaking concerned. Such a culture is reflected in practice in the managerial
systems, personnel policy, principles for participation, training policies and
quality management of the undertaking."
The Occupational Safety and Health Act states that every working Filipino has
the right to a safe and healthy work environment. The Occupational Safety and
Health Administration (OSHA) is the federal agency created to enforce the
Occupational Safety and Health Act.
Workplace Hazards
1. Physical and mechanical hazards
2. Biological hazards
3. Chemical hazards
4. Psychological and social issues
Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Read and interpret plans as per job required.
2. Select and prepared materials, tools and equipment consistent with
job requirements .
3. Properly execute the project according to the plans as per job
required.
Geography
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
"Geographical" redirects here. For the magazine of the Royal Geographical Society,
see Geographical (magazine). For other uses, see Geography (disambiguation).
The page "Kind of soil" does not exist. You can ask for it to be created, but
consider checking the search results below to see whether the topic is already
covered.
For search help, please visit Help:Searching.
Soil
Pedotope
Soil quality
Soil quality is the capacity of a specific kind of soil to function, within natural
or managed ecosystem boundaries, to sustain plant and ...
Tillage
Arikaree Breaks
This kind of soil is also found in northeast Kansas, southwest Nebraska, and
Iowa. The soil in that part of the state forms the Loess ...
Tiarella cordifolia
Pamid
It does not need any particular kind of soil, but the grapes with best quality are
cultivated in hilly areas with light drained soils. ...
The name Balagasan came from the word “Balagas”, which means a kind of soil
with plenty of bolders and easily eroded. When American’s ...
Brown podzolic
The history of soil science began from the contributions of chemist Justus
von ...most suitable for the particular kinds of soil on their farms. ...
His body was pure from any kind of soil and impurity. Then I heard also the
singing of the angels, which was of miraculous sweetness and ...
The US soil taxonomic hierarchy includes orders, suborders, great ... families
and series, with each series representing a unique kind of soil. ...
Soil biomantle
The soil biomantle can be described and defined in several ways. ... Biomixing
refers to the kind of soil bioturbations typically caused by ...
4. The __________ is not one particular kind of soil, nor even the
dominant kind of soil available in a location, but rather the total soil :
a. Pedotope
b. Serpentine soil
c. Tillage
d. Arikaree Breaks
5. The name ____________ came from the word “Balagas”, which means
a kind of soil with plenty of bolders and easily eroded
a. Pedotope
b. Serpentine soil
c. Balagasan
d. Arikaree Breaks
A. Matching Type
1. B
2. C
3. D
4. A
5. C
Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Read and interpret plans as per job required.
2. Learn how to read and interpreted measuring tools.
3. Properly execute the project according to the plans as per job
required.
4. Lear how to convert metric system.
In the metric system of measurement, designations of multiples and sub-divisions of any unit may
be arrived at by combining with the name of the unit the prefixes deka, hecto, and kilo meaning,
respectively, 10, 100, and 1000, and deci, centi, and milli, meaning, respectively, one-tenth, one-
hundredth, and one-thousandth. In some of the following metric tables, some such multiples and
sub-divisions have not been included for the reason that these have little, if any currency in actual
usage.
In certain cases, particularly in scientific usage, it becomes convenient to provide for multiples
larger than 1 000 and for subdivisions smaller than one-thousandth. Accordingly, the following
prefixes have been introduced and these are now generally recognized:
Units of Length
Units of Area
In these tables where foot or mile is underlined, it is survey foot or U.S. statute mile rather than
international foot or mile that is meant.
Units of Length
Units of Area3
40 cm
10 cm
20 cm
A B
15 feet b. 12 inches
1 foot c. 1000 mm
1 Meter d. 3000 mm
1 cm e. 180 inches
A. Matching Type
1. D
2. E
3. B
4. C
5. A
B. METRIC CONVERSION
1. 16.4 feet
2. 4.57 meters
3. 29.53 inches
4. 254 cm
5. 314.96 inches
6. 1.27 meter
7. 5,000 cm
8. 2.50 meters
9. 10,000 mm
10. 0.10 m
Module 3.3-8 - Basic operations for Perform laying brick/block for structure.
Learning Activities Special Instructions
1. Read Information Sheet 3.3-8
Basic operations for Perform laying
brick/block for structure.
2. Answer Self-check 3.3-8 Compare answers with the answer
Basic operations for Perform laying key. You are required to get all
brick/block for structure answers correct. If not, read the
information sheets again to answer all
questions correctly.
3. Follow Operation sheet 3.3-8 Operate Follow the operation sheet 3.3-8 if you
concrete mixer machine. are going to use the concrete mixer
machine.
4. Task sheet 3.3-8 Use the Performance Criteria
Basic operations for Perform laying Checklist 3.3-8 to evaluate your own
brick/block for structure work.
Present your work to your trainer for
evaluation
Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Read and interpret plans as per job required.
2. Select and prepared materials, tools and equipment consistent with
job requirements .
3. Familiar about Bricks and Blocks.
4. Procedure how to lay a Block/brick for structure.
5. Properly execute the project according to the plans as per job
required.
Need to consider:
Types of Blocks
1. Standard Dimensions:
2. Block Style
a. Hollow or Solid - Hollow spaces are called cores; a solid unit has a core
area of 25% or less of the total cross-sectional area.
b. Heavyweight or Lightweight - Heavyweight units weigh approximately 40-
50 lbs. while the lightweight units weigh approximately 25-35 lbs. The
difference in weight is due to the different types of aggregates used in
manufacture.
a. Stretcher - This is the most commonly used block for straight wall runs; it
has slight extensions called ears on each end which form a core when laid
end to end. (2 or 3 core)
b. Corner - same as a stretcher except that one end is smooth; it is used at
the end or corner of a wall.
c. Half Block - both ends are smooth; it is used for openings and ends of
walls.
d. Sash or Jamb - have special grooves for the installation of windows or
doors.
e. Miscellaneous - solid top, partition, bull nose, half-height, lintel; each has a
special application.
C. Job Estimation
a) One foot (12 inches) is 12/8 or 3/2 or 1 1/2 of the height of a block.
b) The height can then be multiplied by 1 1/2 to determine the number of
courses needed.
a. Purchase approximately 2 1/2 bags of masonry cement and 667 lbs. of mortar
sand for each 100 blocks.
Building a foundation may seem an impossible under taking, but when you
understand the steps involved & can break them into individual skills, the task
is much more manageable.
Laying the foundation for a simple addition is also easier because the project is
on a relatively small scale & you will be able to use the existing foundation to
guide layout, leveling, & finishing details. In fact, the most difficult part of many
addition foundations is getting materials & equipment into a tight backyard— &
getting excavated dirt out of it.
The first step in building a foundation is to set up string lines to establish the
outside edges of the foundation wall (not the foundation footing), the limits of
excavation, exact location of footing trenches, & accurate placement of concrete
blocks or form boards for foundation walls. String lines are usually stretched
between temporary batter boards & can be taken down & put back up as needed.
Because an addition abuts the house along at least one wall, you can use the
house instead of batter boards for that side.
If your addition will be close to the setback limits of your property, verify the
property lines. Your building inspection department may even re quire a certified
survey.
You will need one or two helpers to lay out string lines. The following procedure
is for a simple rectangular addition, but similar techniques can be used for more
complex additions.
1. Mark where outside edges of new foundation will intersect house foundation.
Using level to keep lines plumb, scribe vertical lines onto siding at these two
points. (No line is necessary if addition wall lines up with corner of house.) If
edge of addition lines up with one interior wall, take accurate measurements
from inside house & drill pilot holes from outside to make sure your line on
siding corresponds with outside edge of intersecting wall stud.
Scribe a cutting line farther out from foundation line to allow for thickness of
new siding on addition wall, depending on how new siding will be joined with old
later on.
Date Developed: Document No.
February 11, 2013 Check by:
Date Revised:
MASONRY NCII Page 115
Developed by:
Juan R. Asuncion
Danilo M. Bersaba
Revision # 01
2. Remove siding & sheathing covering top of house foundation between marks.
Remove enough to ex pose floor joists & subfloor to save doing it later. Use
circular saw to make cuts, setting blade deep enough to cut through siding &
sheathing but not into framing or foundation. Use carbide blade.
3. Study your plans & existing floor structure to establish where top of new
foundation will be in relation to existing foundation. Even if they appear level,
don’t assume that dimensions of new & old joists, mud sill, subflooring, & other
lumber are the same. Modern lumber is milled to smaller dimensions than old
lumber, & accumulated differences can make new floor lower than existing floor
if you line up the foundations at the same level.
4. Once you have established top level of new foundation, mark that point on
house framing or foundation by measuring from top of existing subfloor. Mark
each corner of new foundation. Attach string line to each point, driving a nail
into house framing or into cleat nailed into house framing. Tie nylon string, not
cotton, to nails driven firmly into wood at angle so string does not slide up or
down when pulled taut. To make sure strings are level with each other, use
transit, water level, or long carpenter’s level set on a straightedge. If they are not
level, lower string at higher corner to level with the one attached to lower corner.
Adjust difference later when you frame floor. Make sure both nails are aligned
vertically with marks indicating edge of new foundation wall.
5. Build batter boards for other ends of string lines by driving two sharpened 2
by 4s into ground about 3 feet apart & nailing level cross- pieces to back sides at
level where string lines are attached to house foundation. Set batter boards 6 to
10 feet beyond addition corners so they don't interfere with excavating & form
building.
6. Stretch the two string lines & tie to 6-penny (6d) nails driven into tops of
batter boards. To locate nails so lines are parallel to each other & perpendicular
to house wall, stretch one string line taut so it touches top of batter board. Slide
it right or left along top of crosspiece until it's perfectly square to house. Drive
nail into batter board at that point. Use “ 3-4-5 triangle” (a series of three
measurements that form right triangle) to determine when lines are square. The
two legs are 3 feet & 4 feet; the hypotenuse is 5 feet. For greater accuracy use
longer measurements that are multiples of 3, 4, & 5 feet (for example, 9-12-15 or
12-16-20).
7. Build batter boards for fourth side of addition perpendicular to first two batter
boards & set back 6 to 10 feet beyond corners. If cross-pieces are long enough,
attach one end to original batter board stake & other to new 2 by 4 stake,
forming L-shaped batter board at each corner. Both crosspieces must be level
with string lines.
8. Stretch string line between two batter boards parallel to house & intersecting
first two string lines at exact length of the two side walls of new foundation.
You can excavate foundation trenches by hand if your addition is small & has
shallow footings (12 to 15 inches deep). If it has deep footings, a basement, or a
sunken crawl space, you will need to hire a back- hoe service or rent a tractor
with a backhoe.
To excavate, lay out excavation lines on ground with chalk, flour, or spray paint.
They should be far enough outside string lines to allow for footing width plus
work space (1 to 2 feet beyond outside edge of footing & canted outward toward
the top).
If soil is unstable or the excavation is more than 5 feet deep, cant sides outward
at least 45 degrees or shore them up to prevent cave-ins.
Slab Foundation
1. Build forms around outside edge with 2-by lumber held by stakes every 1 1/2
to 3 feet. Use string lines to align forms & level top edge, which should be at least
8 inches above grade. Trench walls form footing.
2. Dig trenches for any pipes running under the slab, & then backfill over them.
In climates requiring deeper footings, slab & footings are usually poured
separately. If the slab is to rest on the footings, the trenches are adequate for
footing forms. Just place horizontal rebar in trenches, fill with concrete, & place
hooked lengths of rebar in fresh concrete to tie footing & slab together. Then
build a slab form as described above; place gravel or sand, a vapor barrier, &
another layer of sand within perimeter; tie reinforcing wire mesh to curved hooks
embedded in footing wall; & pour slab.
If footing walls extend above grade & slab is poured within them, you should
build footing walls the same as perimeter foundation. Prepare & pour slab as
described above, placing special filler material between foundation wall & slab to
form an isolation joint.
Perimeter Foundation
For shallow foundations the footing & wall are poured together. For deeper
foundations with higher walls the footing is poured first, & the wall is then
formed & poured separately, or it's constructed of concrete blocks.
To build a perimeter foundation of concrete blocks, follow the steps for a full
basement foundation. To build a concrete “inverted-T” foundation, follow these
steps.
5. Mark locations for anchor bolts on forms & have bolts handy for day of pour,
or build jigs in order to position bolts before the pour. Bolts are usually 1/2 by
10 inches for residential foundations.
6. A girder is usually required to support floor between foundation walls for joist
spans longer than 16 feet. Note location of posts & excavate for pier footings at
these points. Minimum footing dimensions are 18 by 18 inches & 12 inches
below grade. Build simple box form to straddle footing hole, at least 8 inches
square & 8 inches high. Pour pier & footing together & insert post- framing
anchor into wet concrete.
If the walls are concrete they will need tall forms, a job for which you should hire
professionals. If the walls are concrete block, you can build the basement
foundation using the following steps.
1. Excavate 8 inches below floor level, to allow for 4-inch slab & 4 inches of
gravel. Check plans for other thicknesses that must be accounted for, such as
insulation.
2. Dig footing trenches deep enough to pour slab over them after wall is finished.
(For example, footing 12 inches deep requires trench 8 inches deep if gravel bed
is 4 inches thick.)
Date Developed: Document No.
February 11, 2013 Check by:
Date Revised:
MASONRY NCII Page 122
Developed by:
Juan R. Asuncion
Danilo M. Bersaba
Revision # 01
3. Build forms along hp of trench with 2-by lumber. Set height by measuring
down from string lines a distance equally divisible by measurement of concrete
block & mortar so blocks will come out even at top of foundation wall. Make tops
of forms as level as possible, with no more than 1/2 inch variance along entire
form. Hold forms in place with 1 by 2 stakes every 2 feet & 1 by 2 ties across top.
4. Place horizontal rebar in forms, holding it off ground with the help of 3-inch
dobies.
5. Order pieces of vertical rebar (which usually has a hook at bottom) cut to
length & bent as specified in plans. Mark their locations on form boards so
blocks will slip over them, & have them available for pour. Do not drive them into
ground.
No matter what kind of foundation you’re constructing, you’ll need to work with
concrete. This section tells you how to order, pour, & finish it.
Tying new foundation to old: Wire support for rebar; Existing foundation; 30”
pieces of rebar cemented into holes in existing foundation & wired to rebar in the
new foundation
Working with rebar. Plans for most residential foundations specify #4 rebar,
which is 5/8-inch in diameter. This size can be cut & bent fairly easily. Larger
sizes are more difficult to handle.
Use special cutting & bending tool for rebar, or cut it with metal cutoff blade in a
circular saw or hacksaw blade in a reciprocating saw. The advantage of the
specialized tool is that it also bends rebar.
Splice rebar with tie wire. Codes specify that two pieces overlap by at least 40
diameters (equaling 20 inches for #4 bar) Codes also specify “concrete cover”
(minimum thickness of concrete surrounding rebar). Where concrete is below
grade, rebar must be placed at least 3 inches from ground on all sides. Where
concrete is above grade, cover must be at least 1½-inches.
Date Developed: Document No.
February 11, 2013 Check by:
Date Revised:
MASONRY NCII Page 125
Developed by:
Juan R. Asuncion
Danilo M. Bersaba
Revision # 01
Pouring concrete against wood. If new foundation wall will be higher than
existing wall, due to sloping site or other conditions, protect wood portions of
existing house against direct contact with new concrete. Tack aluminum sheet
metal or other approved flashing against ex posed wood framing or sheathing
before pouring concrete against it.
Amount (in cubic yards). Estimate cubic yards by calculating cubic feet &
dividing by 27. Once you have carefully figured the volume needed, add at least 5
percent for waste. It’s better to order too much than too little. Just decide before
delivery where to pour the excess.
Aggregate size. Use 3/4-inch aggregate for most jobs, although some codes
require a specific size. If you are having the concrete pumped, check with the
pumping company to see if their hoses will handle the size aggregate you are
using.
Cement content. This is specified as the number of sacks of cement per cubic
yard of concrete. A five-sack mix is normally specified when the aggregate is ¾-
inch. A six-sack mix is recommended for 3/8-inch aggregate or for jobs where a
higher strength of concrete is needed.
Other factors. You may also need to specify water to cement ratio (1 to 2 by
weight is recommended for most residential foundations); slump (4 inches for
most jobs; 6 inches for filling concrete block); & air entrainment (an additive for
cold climates, usually specified as 6 percent).
Concerning charges, you may have to pay other fees in addition to the per yard
for delivery. A pumping service is extra, usually an hourly fee & a charge for each
yard pumped. You may also have to pay a short-load charge for orders under a
certain minimum, such as 7 yards. A stand by charge is a fee for any time the
concrete truck must remain at your job site after an allotted time limit (usually
about 5 minutes per yard). This fee can skyrocket if you are unprepared when
the truck arrives.
To lay concrete block, start with the two outside corner blocks of the first lead, or
course. Set each block into a layer of mortar & press down to within 3/8-inch of
footing. Stretch a line between them to guide the rest of the first course.
Be sure to set blocks right side up. The edge of the block (the “web”) is wider on
the top of a block than on the bottom.
Lay mortar on footing & butter one end of each block as you set it in place. Keep
buttered end raised slightly & lower it to fit snugly against preceding block in one
smooth motion. Use trowel handle to tap block level & blade to scrape away
excess mortar. Butter both ends of last block for each course. Constantly check
your work with a level, both horizontally & vertically.
Fill wall with concrete after finished wall has dried overnight. Even if your plans
don't require concrete in every space, you will have to fill holes every 4 to 6 feet
for setting anchor bolts. If codes don't require concrete filling, pour insulating
material, such as vermiculite, into finished wall.
There is no set rule governing the thickness of a brick masonry mortar joint.
Irregularly shaped bricks may require mortar joints up to 1/2 inch thick to
compensate for the irregularities. However, mortar joints 1/4 inch thick are the
strongest. Use this thickness when the bricks are regular enough in shape to
permit it. A slushed joint is made simply by depositing the mortar on top of the
head joints and allowing it to run down between the bricks to form a joint. You
cannot make solid joints this way. Even if you fill the space between the bricks
completely, there is no way you can compact the mortar against the brick faces;
consequently a poor bond results. The only effective way to build a good joint is
to trowel it. The secret of mortar joint construction and pointing is in how you
hold the trowel for spreading mortar.
Figure 4 shows the correct way to hold a trowel. Hold it firmly in the grip shown,
with your thumb resting on top of the handle, not encircling it. If you are right-
handed, pick up mortar from the outside of the mortar board pile with the left
edge of your trowel. You can pick up enough to spread one to five bricks,
depending on the wall space and your skill. A pickup for one brick forms only a
small pile along the left edge of the trowel. A pickup for five bricks is a full load
for a large trowel.
If you are right-handed, work from left to right along the wall. Holding the left
edge of the trowel directly over the center line of the previous course, tilt the
trowel slightly and move it to the right (view 3), spreading an equal amount of
mortar on each brick until you either complete the course or the trowel is empty
(view 4). Return any mortar left over to the mortar board.
Date Developed: Document No.
February 11, 2013 Check by:
Date Revised:
MASONRY NCII Page 130
Developed by:
Juan R. Asuncion
Danilo M. Bersaba
Revision # 01
Figure 7 Making a bed joint in a stretcher course.
Do not spread the mortar for a bed joint too far ahead of laying - four or five
brick lengths is best. Mortar spread out too far ahead dries out before the bricks
become bedded and causes a poor bond. The mortar must be soft and plastic so
that the brick will bed in it easily. Spread the mortar about 1 inch thick and then
make a shallow furrow in it (Figure 7, view 1). A furrow that is too deep leaves a
gap between the mortar and the bedded brick. This reduces the resistance of the
wall to water penetration. Using a smooth, even stroke, cut off any mortar
projecting beyond the wall line with the edge of the trowel (view 2). Retain
enough mortar on the trowel to butter the left end of the first brick you will lay in
the fresh mortar. Throw the rest back on the mortar board. Pick up the first
brick to be laid with your thumb on one side of the brick and your fingers on the
Date Developed: Document No.
February 11, 2013 Check by:
Date Revised:
MASONRY NCII Page 132
Developed by:
Juan R. Asuncion
Danilo M. Bersaba
Revision # 01
other. Apply as much mortar as will stick to the end of the brick and then push
it into place (Figure 8). Squeeze out the excess mortar at the head joint and at
the sides. Make sure the mortar completely fills the head joint (Figure 9). After
bedding the brick, cut off the excess mortar and use it to start the next end joint.
Throw any surplus mortar back on the mortar board where it can be restored to
workability.
The first step in building a concrete masonry wall is to locate the corners of the
structure. In locating the corners, you should also make sure the footing or slab
formation is level so that each builder starts each section wall on a common
plane. This also helps ensure that the bed joints are straight when the sections
are connected. If the foundation is badly out of level, the entire first course
should be laid before builders begin working on other courses. If this is not
possible, a level plane should be established with a transit or engineer’s level.
The second step is to chase out bond, or lay out, by placing the first course of
blocks without mortar (Figure 13, view 1).
Vertical joints.
A story or course pole, which is a board with markings 8 inches apart (figure 17),
helps accurately place each masonry course. Also check the horizontal block
spacing by placing a level diagonally across the corners of the blocks (figure 18).
When filling in the wall between the corners, first stretch a mason’s line along
the extensor block edges from corner to corner for each course. Then lay the top
outside edge of each new block to this line (figure 19). How you grip a block
before laying is important. First, tip it slightly toward you so that you can see the
edge of the course below. Then place the lower edge of the new block directly on
Date Developed: Document No.
February 11, 2013 Check by:
Date Revised:
MASONRY NCII Page 140
Developed by:
Juan R. Asuncion
Danilo M. Bersaba
Revision # 01
the edges of the block below (figure 19). Make all position adjustments while the
mortar is soft and plastic. Any adjustments you make after the mortar stiffens
will break the mortar bond and allow water to penetrate. Level each block and
align it to the mason’s line by tapping it lightly with a trowel handle.
Fifth and last, before installing the closure block, butter both edges of the
opening and all four vertical edges of the closure block with mortar. Then, lower
the closure block carefully into place (figure 20). If any mortar falls out, leaving
an open joint, remove the block and repeat the procedure. To assure a good
bond, do not spread mortar too far ahead when actually laying blocks. If you do,
the mortar will stiffen and lose its plasticity. The recommended width of mortar
joints for concrete masonry units is 3/8 inch. When properly made, these joints
produce a weathertight, neat, and durable concrete masonry wall.
As you lay each block, cut off excess mortar from the joints using a trowel (figure
21) and throw it back on the mortar board to rework into the fresh mortar. Do
not, however, rework any mortar dropped on the scaffold or floor. Weathertight
joints and the neat appearance of concrete masonry walls depend on proper
striking (tooling). After laying a section of the wall, tool the mortar joint when the
mortar becomes “thumb print” hard. Tooling compacts the mortar and forces it
Date Developed: Document No.
February 11, 2013 Check by:
Date Revised:
MASONRY NCII Page 141
Developed by:
Juan R. Asuncion
Danilo M. Bersaba
Revision # 01
tightly against the masonry on each side of the joint. Use either concave or V-
shaped tooling on all joints (figure 22).
Tool horizontal joints (figure 23, view 1) with a long jointer first, followed by
tooling the vertical joints (view 2). Trim off mortar burrs from the tooling flush
with the wall face using a trowel, soft bristle brush, or by rubbing with a burlap
bag.
You must prepare in advance for installing wood plates with anchor bolts on top
of hollow concrete masonry walls. To do this, place pieces of metal lath in the
second horizontal mortar joint from the top of the wall under the cores that will
contain the bolts (figure 24, view 1). Use anchor bolts 1/2 inch in diameter and
18 inches long. Space them not more than 4 feet apart. Then, when you complete
the top course, insert the bolts into the cores of the top two courses and till the
cores with concrete or mortar. The metal lath underneath holds the concrete or
mortar filling in place. The threaded end of the bolt should extend above the top
of the wall (view 2).
Concrete is strong under compression, but relatively weak under tension. The
reverse is true for steel. Therefore, when the two are combined, one makes up for
the deficiency of the other. When steel is embedded in concrete in a manner that
assists it in carrying imposed loads, the combination is known as reinforced
concrete. The steel may consist of welded wire fabric or expanded metal mesh,
but, more often, it consists of reinforcing bars, or more commonly "rebar."
2. The first step in laying a block wall is to carefully plan the ________?.
a. Beam
b. Column
c. Project
d. House
3. To lay concrete block, start with the two outside corner __________ of the
first lead, or course.
a. Cement
b. Block
c. Rebar
d. Aggregates
Multiple choice
1. B
2. C
3. B
4. B
5. A
Steps/Procedure:
1. Secure isometric drawing for interpretation and identification of
materials.
2. List down all the tools, material and equipment need to use
based on the given drawing and make a request to withdraw
from the store room.
3. Read and follow the operating procedure of the electrically
operated equipment as well as the manually operated
equipment.
4. Follow the entire safety requirement during the operation of the
equipment.
5. Check all the tools, materials and equipment if it is in good
condition before performing the job.
6. Wear an appropriate PPE for the particular job to do.
7. Make a lay-out for the project according to the plan
requirement.
8. Make stake and follow building lines.
9. Make a concrete foundation for the wall according to the plan
requirement.
10. Mixed a mortar according to the mix proportion needed of the
project.
11. Lay block/brick according to the plan specification.
12. Always aligned every layer based on the nylon string.
13. Stop laying of block/brick every five (5) layer and wait to make it
strong and dry.
120
cm
Steps/Procedure:
a. Using Concrete Mixer Machine
1. Remove the drum from the mixer. This is usually done by turning
the drum in the opposite direction to that of its normal rotation.
2. Place the drum on its side and put some firewood and paper into the
drum and set alight. The drum needs to be on it’s side so it can
draw in air. If the drum is upright, it will not and the fire will go out.
3. Once lit, keep burning for approximately 1 hour. You can use a little
coal to increase the heat and keep the fire in. After approximately 1
hour the drum will be EXTREMELY HOT. (take care when handling!)
4. Cool the outside of the mixer drum with cold water. (Do not wet the
inside of the drum)
5. Empty the drum of burnt coal & or ash.
6. Replace cooled drum back on the mixer. (Remember to grease the
spigot)
7. Avoid banging the outside of the drum, as this could dent and
damage it.
8. When the worst of the cement has been loosened, tip it out into a
wheelbarrow.
9. Pour some water in the drum along with some old bricks or rubble
and leave turning for about 30 minutes. You can tilt the drum a
Date Developed: Document No.
February 11, 2013 Check by:
Date Revised:
MASONRY NCII Page 151
Developed by:
Juan R. Asuncion
Danilo M. Bersaba
Revision # 01
little so that the rubble scrapes the upper edges of the drum.
11. Empty the drum of rubble and water
12. You should now have a clean cement mixer ready for work again.
13. After cleaning your cement mixer. wipe the inside with red diesel
after every use. Before making a new mortar mix wipe the drum dry
of diesel fuel as any diesel liquid residue will impair the mortar mix
Assessment Method:
Actual evaluation with oral questioning.
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….
1. Secure isometric drawing for interpretation and
identification of materials
1 Graphs
Scope:
A graph shows the relationship between two quantities – for example, the temperature at
different times of day or the value of a second hand car at different ages. The line on the
graph is drawn through all of the points of known information. So, we can use the graph to
read off the information - for example, the temperature at a particular time or the value of
the car at a particular age. We can read in either direction. The important point is that the
lines we draw on the graph, from our known starting point to what we want to find out,
must be vertical or horizontal.
200
150
100
50
0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
Time (mins)
Solutions:
Distance-time graph for a snail's journey along a line
250
Distance (centimetres)
200
150
100
50
0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
Time (mins)
How long did it take before the snail had travelled 175 metres?
Draw a horizontal line up from 175cm (shown in green). Where this line reaches the
graph, draw a vertical line down to the axis. Read off the answer: 63minutes. That’s
1hr and 3mins.
Graphs tell stories! As something changes over time, the shape of the graph describes
the change. We can tell the story of the change by interpreting the graph.
200
150
100
50
0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
Time (mins)
Solution:
The graph only shows how far away from her starting point the snail has gone after so much
time.
After 10 minutes, the snail has travelled 50cm and after 20 minutes it has travelled 100cm. It
is travelling at a constant speed. At 30 minutes the snail isn’t getting any further away. It
must have stopped! It remains stopped until 50 minutes. Then it starts getting further away.
However, this time, it only travels about 20 cm for every 10 minutes. So, it is going slower.
A complete answer for a question like this would be: The snail went at a steady speed for 30
minutes, it stopped for 20 minutes, then went at a slower steady speed for a further 50
minutes.
Scope:
Putting information into a table is a useful way of neatly showing a lot of information in a
way that is easy to read. The important thing to recognize is that you are only going to
need to use a very small part of this information. So, remember to check carefully what it
is that you need to know. Then find the correct column and row containing the information
you need.
Example Question:
What is the total cost of a holiday for 1 adult and 2 children at the Tides End hotel departing
on the 5th of August?
Solution:
Reading from the table:
1 adult costs £230
1 child costs £170, so 2 children cost £340
Total £230 + £340 = £570
Scope:
Pie Charts
A pie chart is a graphic representation of data in different categories. The easiest way to
read a pie chart is to make an estimate of the percentage, or fraction, shown for each
category.
For example:
This table shows the results of a survey to determine the favourite colours of 300 people.
Favourite
Colour
Red 150
Blue 30
Green 75
Yellow 45
You can see that 150 people said red. 150 out of 300 is a half.
30 people said blue. 30 out of 300 is a tenth.
75 people said green. 75 out of 300 is a quarter.
There is only one segment left, so this is enough – you can complete the pie chart with
this information.
However, you may be able to see that 45 out of 300 is three twentieths!
So, this is the pie chart:
Blue
If you know the total of the data shown in a pie chart, you can use the percentage or
fraction for each slice to work out how many people the slice represents. If you had an
angle measurer, you could measure the angle and use the fraction of that angle out of
360. In tests, you will not need to measure.
Example Question:
The pie chart shows a survey of 120 people,
which asked them what their favorite soft drink
was. How many people said “Tingle”? Red
Blue
Solution:
4. The ___________ only shows how far away from her starting point the snail has gone
after so much time?
a. Level
b. layout
c. building lines
d. Graph
Communication is the exchange and flow of information and ideas from one person to
another; it involves a sender transmitting an idea, information, or feeling to a receiver
(U.S. Army, 1983). Effective communication occurs only if the receiver understands the
exact information or idea that the sender intended to transmit. Many of the problems that
occur in an organization are the either the direct result of people failing to communicate
and/or processes, which leads to confusion and can cause good plans to fail (Mistry,
Jaggers, Lodge, Alton, Mericle, Frush, Meliones, 2008).
During the transmitting of the message, two elements will be received: content and
context. Content is the actual words or symbols of the message that is known
as language — the spoken and written words combined into phrases that make
grammatical and semantic sense. We all use and interpret the meanings of words
Context is the way the message is delivered and is known as paralanguage — it is the
nonverbal elements in speech such as the tone of voice, the look in the sender's eyes,
body language, hand gestures, and state of emotions (anger, fear, uncertainty,
confidence, etc.) that can be detected. Although paralanguage or context often cause
messages to be misunderstood as we believe what we see more than what we hear; they
are powerful communicators that help us to understand each other. Indeed, we often trust
the accuracy of nonverbal behaviors more than verbal behaviors.
Some leaders think they have communicated once they told someone to do something, “I
don't know why it did not get done. I told Jim to do it.” More than likely, Jim misunderstood
the message. A message has NOT been communicated unless it is understood by the
receiver (decoded). How do you know it has been properly received? By two-way
communication or feedback. This feedback tells the sender that the receiver understood
the message, its level of importance, and what must be done with it. Communication is an
exchange, not just a give, as all parties must participate to complete the information
exchange.
Barriers to Communication
Nothing is so simple that it cannot be misunderstood. — Freeman Teague, Jr.
These barriers can be thought of as filters, that is, the message leaves the sender, goes
through the above filters, and is then heard by the receiver. These filters may muffle the
message. And the way to overcome filters is through active listening and feedback.
A c t i ve Li s t en i n g
Hearing and listening are not the same thing. Hearing is the act of perceiving sound. It is
involuntary and simply refers to the reception of aural stimuli. Listening is a selective
activity which involves the reception and the interpretation of aural stimuli. It involves
decoding the sound into meaning.
Listening is divided into two main categories: passive and active. Passive listening is little
more that hearing. It occurs when the receiver of the message has little motivation to
listen carefully, such as when listening to music, story telling, television, or when being
polite.
F e e d ba c k
When you know something, say what you know. When you don't know something, say
that you don't know. That is knowledge. — Kung Fu Tzu (Confucius)
Providing feedback is accomplished by paraphrasing the words of the sender. Restate the
sender's feelings or ideas in your own words, rather than repeating their words. Your
words should be saying, “This is what I understand your feelings to be, am I correct?” It
not only includes verbal responses, but also nonverbal ones. Nodding your head or
squeezing their hand to show agreement, dipping your eyebrows shows you don't quite
understand the meaning of their last phrase, or sucking air in deeply and blowing it hard
shows that you are also exasperated with the situation.
Carl Rogers listed five main categories of feedback. They are listed in the order in
which they occur most frequently in daily conversations. Notice that we make judgments
more often than we try to understand:
Date Developed: Document No.
February 11, 2013 Check by:
Date Revised:
MASONRY NCII Page 167
Developed by:
Juan R. Asuncion
Danilo M. Bersaba
Revision # 01
o Evaluative: Making a judgment about the worth, goodness, or
appropriateness of the other person's statement.
o Interpretive: Paraphrasing — attempting to explain what the other
person's statement means.
o Supportive: Attempting to assist or bolster the other communicator.
o Probing: Attempting to gain additional information, continue the
discussion, or clarify a point.
o Understanding: Attempting to discover completely what the other
communicator means by her statements.
Imagine how much better daily communications would be if listeners tried to understand
first, before they tried to evaluate what someone is saying.
No n ve r b a l
Behaviors of Communication
To deliver the full impact of a message, use nonverbal behaviors to raise the channel of
interpersonal communication:
Date Developed: Document No.
February 11, 2013 Check by:
Date Revised:
MASONRY NCII Page 168
Developed by:
Juan R. Asuncion
Danilo M. Bersaba
Revision # 01
o Eye contact: This helps to regulate the flow of communication. It
signals interest in others and increases the speaker's credibility. People
who make eye contact open the flow of communication and convey
interest, concern, warmth, and credibility.
o Facial Expressions: Smiling is a powerful cue that transmits
happiness, friendliness, warmth, and liking. So, if you smile frequently
you will be perceived as more likable, friendly, warm and approachable.
Smiling is often contagious and people will react favorably. They will be
more comfortable around you and will want to listen more.
o Gestures: If you fail to gesture while speaking you may be perceived as
boring and stiff. A lively speaking style captures the listener's attention,
makes the conversation more interesting, and facilitates understanding.
o Posture and body orientation: You communicate numerous messages
by the way you talk and move. Standing erect and leaning forward
communicates to listeners that you are approachable, receptive and
friendly. Interpersonal closeness results when you and the listener face
each other. Speaking with your back turned or looking at the floor or
ceiling should be avoided as it communicates disinterest.
o Proximity: Cultural norms dictate a comfortable distance for interaction
with others. You should look for signals of discomfort caused by invading
the other person's space. Some of these are: rocking, leg swinging,
tapping, and gaze aversion.
o Vocal: Speaking can signal nonverbal communication when you include
such vocal elements as: tone, pitch, rhythm, timbre, loudness, and
inflection. For maximum teaching effectiveness, learn to vary these six
elements of your voice. One of the major criticisms of many speakers is
that they speak in a monotone voice. Listeners perceive this type of
speaker as boring and dull.
1.______________________________________________
2.______________________________________________
3.______________________________________________
4.______________________________________________
5.______________________________________________
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
1. Evaluative
2. Interpretive
3. Supportive
4. Probing
5. Understanding
1. Culture
2. Noise
3. Ourselves
4. Perceptions
5. Message
6. Environmental
7. Smothering
8. Stress
o Thought: First, information exists in the mind of the sender. This can be a
concept, idea, information, or feelings.
o Encoding: Next, a message is sent to a receiver in words or other symbols.
o Decoding: Lastly, the receiver translates the words or symbols into a
concept or information that he or she can understand.
Demonstration &
[tick the column]
Observation &
Questioning
Questioning
Third party
Portfolio
Written
Report
The evidence must show that the trainee…
Plans as per job requirement are read and √
interpreted.
Materials, tools and equipment are selected
and prepared consistent with job √
requirements.
Materials are properly stored/stockpiled and √
freed from foreign matters.
Reference building lines are correctly √ √
identified/ located as per job requirements.
Location of brick/block structure based on
reference building lines is established using √
batter board at ±3 mm tolerance for proper
alignment, squareness and dimension.
Lay-out of brick/block structure is correctly √ √
marked as per job requirements.
Bricks and concrete block laid on the line at √
minimum allowance at 1/16 in (2 mm).
Use masonry tools correctly. √
Appropriate PPE is selected and used in line √
with job requirements.
Horizontal/vertical guide for brick/block is √
installed according to job specification.
Reinforcing bar/dowel is installed according √ √
required to job specifications.
Mortars are spread on the base/edge of
brick/block mortar according to job √
specifications.
Bricks/blocks are positioned/laid according to √
design/specifications/locations.
Interpretation of
5% 6% 7% 18%
drawing
Laying of Concrete
Block/Bricks 5% 8% 9% 22%
Proper PPE 5%
selection 3% 5% 13%
Safety awareness 7%
5% 6% 18%
Housekeeping 6%
3% 5% 14%
General Instruction:
Given the necessary tools, material and equipment, you are required to lay
brick/block for structure as per job specification in accordance accepted
institutional/ industry standard (Allotted time: 4hrs)
Specific Instruction:
the machine.
Instruction: Read the question carefully, and select the correct answer.
11. The first step in building a concrete masonry wall is to locate the
______________?
a. Corners of the structure
b. Block
c. Foundation
d. Wall
12. To lay concrete block, start with the two outside corner __________ of
the first lead, or course.
a. Cement
b. Block
c. Rebar
d. Aggregates
16. The ___________ only shows how far away from her starting point the snail
has gone after so much time?
a. Level
b. layout
c. building lines
d. Graph
18. The first step in laying a block wall is to carefully plan the ________?.
a. Beam
b. Column
c. Project
d. House
ANSWER KEY:
1. D 11. A
2. B 12. B
3. C 13. B
4. A 14. C
5. C 15. C
6. D 16. A
7. B 17. A
8. B 18. C
9. A 19. B
10. C 20. D
Extension/Reflection Questions
1. What are the tools and equipment needed for laying of block/brick?
Answer: Pointed trowel, measuring tape, plum bub, steel square,
pencil, nylon, claw hammer, Grinder, and concrete mixer.
2. What are the PPE needed to use when laying brick/block?
Answer: Harness, safety shoes, hard hat, cover-all suit.
3. Enumerate the procedure on laying of brick/block?
Answer: Prepare the plan, make a lay-out for the project, mixed a
mortar for the blocks, make a guide for the blocks, lay the blocks
accordingly to the plan, always clean the area.
Safety Questions
4. What are the 5 basic rules on safety handling tools booth hand tools
and power tools?
Answer:
1. Always follow the instruction on how to take care your tools and
equipment.
2. Always clean the tools and equipment after you used it.
3. Never repair equipment until you unplug it in the power.
4. Always follow manual instruction of the tools.
5. Wear PPE when using hand tools and equipment’s.
5. What are the safety requirements for handling mixer machine?(refer
from user manuals instruction)
Answer:
6. What is the feeling of using a right PPE when performing the job?
Answer: Confident and feel secured while working.
7. How do you feel when you are laying of brick/block by following safety
requirements?
Answer: Feel safe and not worried.
Note: In the remarks section, remarks may include for repair, for
replenishment, for reproduction, for maintenance etc.