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UP TO
SCRATCH
MEGAS TSONOS concludes
his stunning scratchbuilt Noratlas
 CONTENTS
2 NORD 2501D Noratlas part 4
Master scratchbuilder Megas Tsonos concludes his stunning build.

10 F-14B Final Tomcat Cruise

Dali Xu reworks the 1:48 Hasegawa Tomcat complete with a full lighting set up

20 Boulton-Paul Defiant
The Airfix 1:48 kit polished up by Dimitris Siolos.

28 L 39ZA Albatros
Florin Claudiu Silaghi builds the HPH resin kit of the Romanian trainer in 1:32

36 Twin Tigers
Romain Flechon builds both versions of the Eurocopter using the 1:48 Italeri kit

48 Air Borne
New releases.

58 F4U-1A Corsair
George L Johnson tackles the big Tamiya kit in
Royal New Zealand Airforce markings.

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1
 NORD N2501D
NORATLAS
The production painting of the German Air Force Noratlases
consisted of three colours, within the RAL colour range. These
were RAL6014 Gelboliv and RAL7012 Basaltgrau for the
topsides and booms, and RAL7001 Silbergrau for the
undersides. Their already ageing paint when received by the
Hellenic Air Force notwithstanding, these planes were
subjected to severe fading due to sunlight and atmospheric
conditions of the Mediterranean environment. This is
clearly evident on the areas painted in the delicate Day-
Glo Red, which gradually turned to orange, eventually to
reach plain yellow, as the red colour and its
fluorescent factor gradually disappeared. Therefore I
used the three principal colours only as a guide. I
altered their shades so as to get the desired effect
without whatsoever getting outside the ‘envelope’
of the colours. I used the Xtracolor
X251/X254/X255 appropriately mixed with
lighter shades of greys and greens of the
same range of enamels.

2
1:48 Megas Tsonos
concludes his stunning scratchbuild
With a lot of work ahead of me I started by masking the transparencies and I airbrushed the model in the camouflage pattern of the
sealed off all openings. German Air Force which was retained on the Greek Noratlases
until their repainting in the TAC (Vietnam) scheme.

Following the basic painting, I masked and painted the yellow section of the wing Next I masked and painted the faded Day-Glo Red areas of the
and fuselage walkway area border lines. The red/orange stripes would later be rudders, wingtips and outer sections of the engine cowls. A little later,
applied in decal form (detail A). I used White Ensign Models’ WMCC/ACS15 the extreme nose section followed suit.
(Light) Brown as my ‘‘faded yellow’’.

Then I airbrushed a very light coat of Modelmasters’

Fluorescent Red-Orange over the yellow. As the paint was
It went as follows: I used (again) White Ensign Models’ still freshly applied and with a tissue moistened in alcohol both colours now merged into a
WMCC/ACS15 (Light) Brown as ‘‘faded yellow’’. I left the I wiped out some of the red-orange taking care not to single, faded-looking colour.
areas painted to dry overnight. remove the yellow underneath. In this way I avoided the
‘airbrush effect’ of the red-orange...

I masked and painted the National insignia; the

roundels were positioned over the German Air
Force crosses in eight places on the wings,
fuselage and tailbooms. I used two shades of
blues according to the roundels’ relevant
positions on the model, for I wanted the upper
ones to look more faded than their lower
counterparts. I killed the white of the roundels,
adding light grey FS36622 into it, to cater for
scale effect. The model was declared ready for
‘washing’ and weathering.

3
 I mixed together Raw Umber and Ivory I airbrushed the mixture starting from the
Black artists’ oil colours together with a wing undersides and working within a small
generous amount of Xtracolor thinners. area at a time.

By gently wiping out the freshly dried oils I left just as much as
needed to create the effects caused by oil stains and fuel leaks, as
well as to show the scribed details and riveting.

The decals were applied next. I designed and

printed the decals at my printer, on an A4 sheet of
Bare-Metal’s Clear Decal film for ink-jet printers.
One of the most tedious operations was the
application of the striped red section of the
walkways. No less than 180cm (!) of striped red
The washes finished and I proceeded with the lines were applied on the model, in itself a very
masking and painting of the de-icer boots. time-consuming operation.

All other decals such as aircraft servicing point

symbols and numerous stencils were finally applied
presenting no problems whatsoever. As I finished
with decal application, I gave the entire model a
light coating of Xtracolor XDFF flat varnish. This
sealed all decals and gave the model a uniform
appearance.

SOME LAST DETAILS

As the construction of the Noratlas model was
reaching completion, there were a lot of minor
details put into the build which, if described in
detail, would really need an article of their own.
Some of these details were built during the spare
time between the major assemblies; some were
modelled along the construction and not in a single
step, the transparencies described earlier being a
good example. I selected a few, described below,
which I considered to be important to a more
complete presentation of the build.
4
The paratroopers exit doors were modelled on a piece of thin styrene, cut to the shape of the fuselage
openings. Within the exit doors, the emergency exit hatches were situated along their latching locks and
sealing coaming. The emergency hatches also included the windows, their framing being the same as
the rest of the fuselage windows. The door interior detailing was added and the doors were painted in
Alclad ALC-117 Dull Aluminium. Then, using a small piece of paper as a mask, the outer sides were
painted in the camouflage colours,
…and the doors were finished with the addition of the Plexiglas windows.

The Noratlas was provided with two manually

retractable tail stands to prevent an unwanted tail-
sitting during the loading/unloading procedure. I
modelled these from lengths of brass tubes
soldered together. I avoided the - much easier to
As for the crew entrance door, this was modelled I glued the door to the fuselage along with its model - styrene rod idea; the fact that they might
almost exclusively of styrene. retracting rams (Albion Alloys metal tubes) and the be broken every single time I would like to move
up-pulling handle (painted white). The door steps the model down the years was an upsetting
stencils were printed on clear decal film, as it was thought. I modelled the relevant recesses on the
done with the rest of the stencilling. fuselage which are the shape of the pads; the
pads themselves fit flush into the recesses when
the rods are retracted.

Through the holes and under the floor

I initially glued a brass tube (detail ‘A’-
RED) which extended from side to
side in order to get everything
coaxially fitted. I cut in half the ‘Π’-
shape seen in the previous photo and
slid each side to the tube already in
place (detail ‘B’-BLUE). Finally I
inserted a small diameter tube (detail
‘C’- YELLOW). I cemented this
innermost tube (YELLOW) to the The last part of the procedure is seen here;
middle ones (the ‘BLUE’ halves – the innermost tube is inserted to the
detail ‘D’) and so I prevented them middle half-tubes. I sparingly applied CA
from sliding out of position. The glue, between the inner and middle tubes
procedure described also left the tail taking care not to touch the large tube.
stands dangling which is much safer
than cementing them.

5
 The Noratlas was a combination of two different worlds of aviation technology, aeroplane, it provided ample space for radio and electronics, and its fuselage
representing the old and the new in almost every respect from its structure is often seen bristling with antennae and aerials of every sort. I used ‘STRUTZ’
up to, and including, its powerplant and electronics. Being a substantial aerofoil-shaped brass rods to construct all antennae masts.

On the fuselage underside at the front starboard quarter, and stretched Some more equipment was also added, such as the three IFF lights and the
between two ‘inverted Y’ masts, are the marker beacon, the radio white TACAN antenna located nearby the rectangular radio altimeter antennae,
compass-I and radio compass-II aerials. These under-fuselage masts as well as the circular IFF antennae which are flush with the fuselage skin.
are seen in this picture while in the making. Note the holes drilled in
them, in preparation for the nylon threads to be later glued on (detail A).

The fuselage topsides are full of small details. The most prominent of these are
indicated by arrows. Also - front to rear - one may see the pitot tubes (Albion
Alloys) and between them the VOR/ILS antenna; the cabin heater air intake, two
The lower UHF antenna black-painted mast and the lower anti-collision black-painted ADF (AS313/ARN6) antennae housings, and the VHF antenna mast
light completed the fuselage underside details. Both upper and lower located behind the wing-to-fuselage fairing (rear) were among the many details to
anti-collision lights were shaped from ready made clear red styrene. be modelled.

TOP LEFT: The VOR/ILS antenna, a

delicate part indeed was made from
styrene and wire.
FAR LEFT: Special attention was given to
the mast for the HF radio equipment;
brass as usual, with a soldered brass top
and thin wire loops for the aerials to hook
on, it was made strong enough so as to
keep standing upright regardless of time.

I made the aerials of 0.2mm dia. Ni.silver

Albion Alloys rod (code NSR1 M); thus I
faithfully reproduced their identical
sagging as seen on the real planes. I
airbrushed the aerials in matt white,
observed in contemporary colour photos.
The aerials on the real planes seemed to
be suspended by a length of wire running
the 1/5th of their total length from the
vertical stabilizers forwards. I used thin
wire to replicate this, and I painted it in
gun metal.
6
As referred to earlier in this article, and in
order to show the models’ interior more
easily, some form of lighting had to be
incorporated in the construction. I used JS
Miniatures’ Small Scale Lights
(www.smallscalelights.co.uk) products,
namely the 3V Ultra Nano SMD Chip LEDs
with 16cm insulated wires. I opted for scale
lighting but as the light intensity emitted by
the LEDs precluded this, I blocked the
LEDs with a piece of thin white plasticard;
thus the light was reduced to acceptable
levels. As the firm offers a full range of
products, a set of Micro Plug Connectors,
a 3V battery holder and an on/off switch
were also purchased. The latter were
assembled as an external power source to
be plugged in, as and when needed.

As can be seen in the drawing, four lights were used for the cargo compartment, one for the
entrance/electronics compartment and one for the cockpit. All lights were installed in the same places
where some of the actual aircraft floodlights were located.

The female plug is seen in place just before I sealed it with Milliput White On the finished model, two small dots barely visible are the only exterior marks
epoxy putty. The holes were plugged with thin wire during the filling work. of the work done with the lighting.

NORD N2501D ‘UII’ D107 (52-189) allotted to 354 Tactical Transport Squadron, 112 Combat Wing,
A LITTLE HISTORY... HAF, and was permanently based in Eleusis Air Force Base. In
mid-1974 the tension existing between Greece and Turkey over
I chose to finish my model in the colours and markings of the Cyprus escalated to war, and the Turkish Army landings on the
aeroplanes in service with the Hellenic Air Force in the mid- island caused the immediate response of the Greek side. Thus 52-
seventies. As referred to earlier in this article, 57 Noratlases were 189 took part in operation ‘Niki’ (the Greek word for ‘Victory’)
supplied to the Hellenic Air Force as a part of a program to during the night of 20/21 July 1974, airlifting 30 rangers of the 1st
compensate for the damage inflicted to Greece during the Greek Rangers Squadron from Souda AFB, Crete, to Nicosia. She
German occupation of the country in WWII. One of these planes was captained by Squadron Leader George Mitsainas and crewed
was 52-189, which was acquired by the German Air Force on 21 by Squadron Leader Chris Kyriakopoulos (second pilot), Chief
June 1960. Its construction number was D107 and its delivery Master Sergeant Alexander Foutsis (navigator) and Warrant Officer
code was KA+118. The aeroplane was delivered to 1.LTG 61 and Constantinos Simos (flight mechanic) – officers’ ranks are at the
was coded as GA+105. She operated exclusively with 1.LTG 61 time of the operation. Almost a full year after the Cyprus war, in
and when the German Air Force aircraft coding system was May 1975, 52-189 is seen in her grey-green camouflage colouring,
revised in 1968, she was repainted as 52+89. On 11 November the Day-Glo areas have nevertheless, been repainted in dark grey.
1970 she was transferred to the Hellenic Air Force (repainted as She ended her days painted in the three-tone TAC (Vietnam)
52-189). The German insignia and the squadron emblem were scheme, and was struck off-charge in Eleusis, seen there as a
painted over, even though the spinner colours (white in the case of derelict airframe in 1992. She was eventually recorded as
1.LTG 61) and Day-Glo painted areas were retained. She was scrapped, in April 1996.

7
8
NORATLAS
CONCLUSION

A complicated modelling endeavour, the Noratlas took the best of

two years to complete. All the demands concerning its construction
were fully met. However it was the introduction of new materials and
techniques such as 3D-printing which led to a successful built.
Without these, the end result would probably be a much more
compromised construction. Being a follow-up to the scratchbuilt 1:48
Short Stirling (the construction of it has been described in detail
through these pages two years ago), the Noratlas presented more or
less the same degree of difficulty; however it was the twin-boom
layout of the subject which made things somewhat more complicated
as regards its overall symmetry, as well as its full interior detailing. In
this respect I must stress the fact that I feel the Noratlas was really
one step beyond.

I must sincerely thank the Hellenic Air Force Museum personnel, for
assisting into getting closer to the real thing; Mr. Michael Solanakis
who kindly provided the drawings he has made for the Noratlas,
thus giving me the head start, as well as Mr. Michael Skoularikos
([email protected]) for his invaluable help in designing and photo-
etching for the Noratlas. Last but not least, Mr. John Sagiadinos of
Y.S. Masterpieces ([email protected]) for his fine
reproducing in resin the propeller blades of the model, relieving me
of the trouble of doing each one by hand!

BIBLIOGRAPHY

N2501 Noratlas, Siegfried Wache, F40 ‘Flugzeuge der

Bundeswehr’, AGL, 11/1988.

Le Noratlas, Xavier Capy, Editions Escale, Alby, Juin 1997.

N2501D aircraft technical manuals.

9
10
As the U.S. Navy’s previous generation air superiority fighter, the F-14 is
still held in high regard. Her radar and long range surpassed all other
fighters of the period and her variable-sweep wing maintained her
advantage in a dog fight. During the Cold War, her mission was to
intercept enemy bombers and protect U.S. carriers. After 2000 with
shifting priorities, F-14s started to add ground attack missions to the
portfolio. ‘Tomcat’ not only displayed performance, but also displayed
some beautiful markings from different squadrons. It became a
wonderful ‘landscape’ image on the decks of carriers. F-14Bs in VF-103
squadron painted Jolly Roger on their vertical tails, which was inherited
from VF-17 in WWII, and became an almost spiritual symbol for the
crews. Desperate to build my own Tomcat, I used Hasegawa’s 1:48 F-
14B VF-103 Final Cruise kit released in 2005. This command aircraft
of VF 103 finished her final cruise and retired in 2005. I put my
heart and soul into this model to show my great respect to
this mighty warrior of aviation history.

11
 This ex-’Bombcat’ required some modification
to the rear instruments.

Aftermarket parts from Eduard, Aires

and Master amongst others.

Plenty of trial and error resulted in realistic

screen lighting.

Before starting the project, I did lots of homework to compare the

kit and upgrades, pictures revealed lots of kit details did not
match real F-14s. I had to do plenty of modifications to make the
model as accurate as possible. I made the cockpit as the first
step and used Aries highly detailed resin cockpit set. I would also
challenge myself in adding lights in cockpit, monitors and
instruments. The rear part of the cockpit was the key point of
modification because the actual aircraft was an updated
Bombcat. Some push buttons, control rods and monitor screens
were different from what’s provided by Aires. I sanded these The illuminated HUD
looks impressive!
details off and added correct ones with styrene stock. Where
illumination was needed, I drilled fine holes and added small
pieces of coloured film. I redesigned the front and rear instrument
panels with plastic card to make enough space for the LEDs. I had
to experiment with different materials as backgrounds to ‘cast’ the
light evenly (simply white plastic card) and very thin clear accetate
for the screens.
With the cockpit complete it was onto the airframe with more
modifications to incorporate lighting. I made navigation lights
around the body and the strip light on the front landing gear with
LED. Navigation lights on the tcs heads and on the tip of wings
were made by optical fibers. Inside of the vertical fins did not have
enough space to work with and the optical fibres bent too much
and failed to light up. I had to solder connective wires together
and divided all the lights into four groups with different voltage by
using different resisters and colours. I added an IC control for the
tcs lights to make them ‘glint’ like the real ones. I did not want any
visible power source or switches on any surface of the model so I
used button batteries and hid them under the missile suspending
points. If you took these parts off, you would see the battery cells
and switches underneath. Lighting is not something often seen on
scale models, and it does require a different set of skills b,ut the
results are certainly worth it.

The Aires cockpit adds superb

detail and was improved further
with a few tweaks.

12
 A suitably sized lens from an old mobile /
cell phone ads a touch of realism.

Aires provided superb

detail to the wheel wells.

After finishing the electric work, I focused on detail

enhancement and modifications. I used Aries resin
undercarriage bays and exhaust nozzels, Eduard and
Dreammodel PE sets plenty of home-made
modifications. Since the F-14 is a variable sweep-wing
aircraft, there were wing glove sealing plates for both
wings to improve the aerodynamic characteristics.
Since all kits here regular styrene-plastic material, either
wings unfolded leave big gaps or wings have to be
folded which does not represent the vairable angles of
wings nor the sealing plates. I thought long and hard
and finally decided to use a very thin guage of sponge
wraped carefully in twill fabric. When the wings were
folded and they compressed the sponge, when they
were expanded the sponge automatically extends and
‘fills-up’ the gap as the actual aircraft. The fabric could
not be painted by airbrush because it would lose
elasticity. I taped these area and brushed with thinned
oil paints remaining flexible.
Fine foam wrapped
I found a suitable sized cell-phone camera lens for the in fabric provides
nose TCS camera, and in different angles you could see functioning sealing
different coloured polarized lights, something almost panels without
unrealistic gaps.
impossible to achieve by other methods.

Lighting certainly adds another

dimension to the model.

13
 The confined space inside the
wings makes for some demanding
wiring and conections!

Many scratchbuilt
details to the
landing gear
matches the levels
of the wheel wells.

I used different kinds of materials to increase the details of as many parts as

possible according to real F-14 pictures and diagrams For example, the
landing gears, lots of wiring, tubes and connectors were added. I also drilled
through and added metal rods inside to ehance the strength of the legs and
replaced plastic hyraulic rod parts with polished metal ones. Once the
fuselage and wings were mated, I scribed all of the panel lines again, the
original ones were ok, but not perfect and I wanted perfect. I added rivets
with a 0.2 mm drill according to very detaled drawings and I can say the
number and locations were at least 90 percent accurate!

14
 The main
components
prepared and Scratch-built arrestor hook and Aires
ready for paint resin exhausts in place.

Weld seams are simply

added to the drop tanks.

Modified parts; key points:

• Canopy and windshield originally had incorrect raised
panel lines, I sanded these flush and scribed recessed
lines, added rivets and detailed by PE and plastic rod.

• The maintainence panels on both sides of the nose and

sides of the engines had hinge details so I scribed 0.4mm
grooves and added plastic which were then cut into small
sections to imitate the hinges.

• For the drop tanks (opposite procedure to the canopy) I

needed to change from cancave lines to raised lines
because they were wielded together. i just glued thin
plastic rod along panel lines and they look just fine.

After a final testing light functions and masking certain

areas, I started painting.

15
 I took my time to study other F-14 models and images of the were added together but are shown more significant in different
operational aircraft. I found that aircraft in service would show areas. I produced a detailed sketch before starting with the whole
many heavily weathered areas. Furthermore, the weathering did model separeted into visual centres with surrouding effects
not spread evenly or nor have the same features. On carrier- produced at different levels providing different focal points. Some
based aircraft, dirt or touched-up paint spots on their rear and areas like the cockpit and front air intake I only did light weathering
fluid leak marks around the engines were siginificantly different. Air but with much stronger tones around the rear engine areas with
flow marks, sea salt corossion marks and footprints of service heat discolouration and fluid leaks.
crew were mainly seen on the tops of the wings. These effects

Much of the surface weathering was gradually

airbrushed by adding differnt ratios of brown or white
to the base grey paint. I imitated dirt spots and
colour fading with very dilute colours and a gradual
process until I got the effect I wanted. After finishing
weathering I applied the decals and then a flat
clear coat. I used oil paints to add other effects
very patiently in gradual layers. The curved
scuffs on wing roots were created by a
brush attached to a drawing compass.
During the oil painting I frequently
referred to real images and also I
made sure the rear areas around
the engines remained a focus
with the strongest shifts of
colour and contrasts.

With the main airframe complete I concentrated on the details such

as the exhaust nozzles and landing gears. One of my final and most
favourite touches is the HUD support and screens, I applied
polarizing film on top of transparent accetate, with different lights the
HUD will show different colours like the actual unit.

It took me 18 months to complete this project. Honestly, the 20 year

old Hasegawa kit was behind times when I started but at that
moment, Tamiya’s 1:48 tomcat kits were not released and are a far
better starting point for a super-detailed project but I learned a lot
during the process which I can apply to future projects. It was a
great experience. I hope you agree the work involved with the
lighting was worth the effort and adds an interesting dimension to
16
my Tomcat.
17
18
19
 B O U L T O N - P A U L

M A R K O N E

Dimitris Siolos adds a few

20
personal touches to the Airfix kit.
Definitely one of the inconspicuous planes of the Battle of Britain and the RAF
in general, the Defiant was designed by Boulton & Paul in the late 1930’s as an
interceptor. Used mainly against unescorted Luftwaffe bombers, it proved to be
rather effective. It’s main disadvantage was that, being heavy due to its own gun
turret, it was vulnerable to the Messerschmitt Bf.109 escort fighters. Thus, the
Defiant was soon switched to the night fighter role, and later, when replaced by
the Bristol Beaufighter and the D.H. Mosquito, it was used mainly in target towing
and gunnery training.

Until recently, the Defiant was a rather neglected kit subject by the mainstream
companies, Classic Airframes being the only choice in 1:48. This changed in
2016, when Airfix and Trumpeter released their brand new kits. My build is based
on the Airfix kit, issued as the Defiant Mk.I . Airfix has done a very good job the
subject, offering a very good amount of detail within a well-shaped kit. The
exterior details are fine and crisp with recessed panel lines. However there are no
rivets, which were prominent almost all over the real aircraft. The build is pretty
straightforward, without any major fit problems. Some details could have been
done better, such as the tailwheel or the wheel well doors, but can be easily
corrected. The decal sheet is a high quality one, printed by Cartograf and a nice
colour instruction leaflet all added to the good impression made by this kit.

21
 1 2 3

4 5 6

7 8
Photos 1&2: I started the detailing with the Dzus were covered with maskol and the panel was coated
fasteners on the engine covers. These were in matt varnish. The resulting ‘step’ enhanced the
rescribed using a syringe needle ‘disc’ and a 0.4 mm appearance of the panel, following the removal of
drilled hole at the center. the maskol.

Photo 3: Various sinkmarks at the fuselage and Photo 9: Almost the whole landing gear bays were
wings surfaces were treated using Mr Surfacer 500. reconstructed. First, I removed the wheel well tops
in order to get a couple of millimetres in depth. This
Photos 4&5: The whole model was riveted as the part was replaced with thin styrene sheet and
rivets were very visible in reality, being almost various details were added using mainly copper wire
everywhere, with the exception of the engine covers and styrene.
and a couple of panels of the undersides. Careful
study of plans and photos was required, as well as Photos 10&11: The corrugated panels were
measuring in order for everything to be correct and replicated using thin aluminium foil which I pressed
symmetrical. The tool I used for riveting is against the cockpit’s corrugated sidewalls using a
Trumpeter’s riveter, and a thin styrene strip as a toothpick to emboss the appropriate shape.
guide.
Photo 12: The walls of the bays were also replaced
Photos 6&7: The lowered flaps are from a with aluminium foil to replicate the hollow details of
photoetched set by Eduard. They require careful the real aircraft and auxiliary equipment such as the
cutting, cleaning and thinning of the kit’s parts, and engine starting crank. Airfix provides the wheel well
also very careful gluing of the small fiddly PE parts. doors in two parts instead of the normal three, so
they were replaced by the resin set available from
Photo 8: I replaced the instrument panel with an Quickboost.
aftermarket part by Jahu. The individual instruments

9 10 11
22
 12

13 14
15

16 17 18
Photos 13&14: I detailed the cockpit using parts of Eduard’s set, Photo 17: The landing lights were completely reconstructed. First,
though not all of them, as in some cases the kit’s parts are more I used the same corrugated foil as in the wheel wells, painted in
realistic. I also added more detail according to photos of the real interior green and for the lights I used Brengun’s photoetched set.
thing, mainly cables and wiring, all done with copper wire. The I glued the kit’s parts, filled them with Milliput and sanded
whole area was painted in interior grey-green using Humbrol 78 everything smooth. Then I polished the clear parts with Micromesh
then weathered and given depth with a raw umber wash. and brushed on a thin coat of Future floor polish to restore the
Drybrushing and chipping was done with aluminium enamel. shine.

Photos 15&16: The trailing edges of the kit’s ailerons are too Photo 18: The navigation lights were treated in a similar manner
thick, so I had to thin them down, destroying all the detail of the to the landing lights as far as filling and polishing is concerned.
fabric in these areas. I replicated the ribs using Mr. Surfacer 500
sprayed over masking tape. The removal of the tapes revealed the
rib detail, which was then sanded gently so as to be
barely visible on the finished model.

19 20

Photos 19&20: In order to simulate the bulbs

housed into the transparencies I drilled a hole in
each clear part and added a drop of red and blue
colour for the port and starboard lights respectively.

23
 21 22 23

Photo 21: I applied the decals which, being Cartograf

conformed perfectly to the details.

Photo 22: I had to correct the red of the national insignia

as it is too bright, so I oversprayed it using Xtracolor’s
WWII roundel red.

Photo 23: The turret is built almost out of the box, with a
couple of photoetched parts from Eduard added, plus
some scratchbuilt details, like a booklet seen attached
above the control panel and some tubing here and there.
24 25
Photo 24: A major improvement is the replacement of the
0.303 Browning machine guns with brass ones from
Master’s set. These, as the interior and the inside of the
cupola, were painted black. When dry, I rubbed them with
an HB-hard pencil lead, to give them a more metallic
sheen.

Photo 25: After the decals and colours had dried, I

brushed a wash of Raw Umber and black artists’ oil paint
then wiped gently with a soft
napkin to enhance the engraved
details and the rivets of the
exterior surfaces.

I painted the model using Xtracolor

enamels; X1 Dark Green, X2 Dark Earth
and X7 Sky comprised the well- known
RAF scheme. I used a Badger Sotar
20/20 to airbrush the model, with the
upper surfaces being freehand-painted.
These colours dry in a very nice gloss
finish, so no varnish is needed.

24
 Engine oil stains were replicated mainly with black
oil colour, while the exhaust stains are done with
the airbrush and black, grey and brown colours
applied in layers.

I used the Tamiya Weathering Master pastel

shades (sets A,B and E), to simulate the colour
fading of the camouflage paint, and give the model
a more lively appearance. Oil staining was added
on the undersides as well, as is evident in this
photo.

The separate parts such as the

propeller, the exhausts (Eduard
Brassin), the antennae (thin lycra
thread), and the pitot tube
(syringe needle) were among the
last things to be done towards
the finishing of the build.

An overall enjoyable build, the historically obscure Defiant

added that little difference in a showcase normally filled
with ‘glamorous’ subjects, pointing out that Airfix has once
more gone effectively beyond the monotonous.

25
26
Bibliography:
Boulton Paul Defiant, Mushroom Yellow Series 6117.
Boulton Paul Defiant, Warpaint Series No.42.
Defiant, Blenheim and Havoc Aces, Osprey Aircraft of the Aces 105.

27
 Florin Claudiu Silaghi
builds the HPH resin kit

28
Romanian Military Aviation

29
 Designed to replace the subsonic From the total of 32 aircraft purchased by from Boboc. Just over a week after arrival
advanced reactive training ground and Romania, only one crashed (NR.118, SN on December 18, 1981, the first flight of
ground attack L-29 Delfin, the L 39 ZA 132018, on December 22nd 1981), 14 the new jet was seen and advanced
Albatros performed it’s first flight in 1968, units were sold in the USA, where they reactive training was undertaken.
being introduced into operative service in probably still fly, and now 3 pieces are A total of 32 Albatros of the ZA model were
Czechoslovakia in 1971. More than 2500 exhibited in Romania with the remaining 14 purchased, deliveries ending in March
aircraft were built, being exported to 35 sold in various countries (including Ukraine 1984. The Albatros L-39 ZA operated with
different countries. and Bulgaria). the Romanian Military Aviation between
Romania was the only country in the 1982 and 2007. Number 145 (SN 533218)
Warsaw Pact (with the exception of The first L-39 ZA Albatros aircraft arrived in entered service on April 6th 1985 and had
Czechoslovakia, as the producing country) Romania early December 1981, joining the its last flight in December 2007 before
that had the ZA model. newly established Group 20 Aviation being sold-off. Today it’s probably still flying
School of Fighter and Fighter-Bombers in the USA or Ukraine...

Resin kits are always a little more

demanding than the usual injection moulded
plastic. A little sanding and filling is to be
expected. HpH resin casting is excellent.

Plenty of nose weights are

always good insurance.

Canopy wiring was

created by ‘coiling’
fine copper wire
around a fine drill bit.

Like all other models from Czech

manufacturer HpH, this also is a very
complex kit that is not for a beginner to the
Is pre-printed photoetch
hobby. The resin parts look very nice, it has
‘cheating’? There’s no
denying it looks superb. great detail, and the photoetch, seat belts
and paint masks that come with the kit are
very high quality. These kits are appreciated
by experienced modellers who demand
detail and accuracy from the box.

After studying the parts it seemed to me

that the rivet detail was not well enough
defined to support a subsequent wash. I
enhanced the rivets throughout, time
consuming but not difficult.
Another amendment was to cut-out the
Seat detail is impressive
although some fine
openings for the boarding ladders and add
work is involved. the photoetch ladder bays into the left side
30 of the fuselage.
The seats and cloth seat belts that HpH I built the engine exhaust collar from had masks cut and decals printed.
includes look nice. I assembled the cockpit scratch as it’s not represented in the kit. To represent all the stencils I took advice
photoetch parts which are again really nice For painting the model, I opted for MRP from a friend who has worked on this type
looking. Before the final fit of the seats in laquer-based paints. of aircraft for a long time. All the work was
the cockpit, I realized the back seat was To get the correct shade I combined grey sealed with a glossy lacquer (MRP-048), I
too tall, so I had to cut about 3mm off its (MRP-039) with a drop of blue (MRP-238). made a small highlighting of the lines and
height. Best done before details and paint! For painting the airplane identification rivets with AK-2072 panel wash. I made
Instrument panels as well as control panels numbers and national insignia, I used some small traces of fluid leaks with AK-
on the side consoles are provided as pre- masks. To be able to represent the model 012. Finally, I covered everything with the
coloured photo-etched parts. as I wanted I needed a set of dedicated MRP-125 clear matt. As most of us do,
The biggest struggle, to me, were the air decals. I drew all the stencils and technical details such as landing gear, ordnance and
intakes, which needed special attention to marks on the computer along with the the canopy are detailed and painted
be aligned with the fuselage. After mascot and the emblem on the separately ready for a final fitting.
assembling the fuselage, it took a little airplane's nose.
putty here and there to fix some gaps. By the courtesy of some good friends, I

The red of the numerals was airbrushed through a self-

adhesive mask and outlined carefully with a fine brush.

and after; re-working the

rivet detail was worth the
effort, especially in 1:32.

Before removal of
the excess panel
line wash...

31
 After a long time (about 9 months) I am proud to
say that I finally finished working on this model. It
is one of my most impressive pieces of my entire
collection. It was a great pleasure working on it,
and I would do it all over again gladly.

32
33
36
I
n the 1980s Germany and France decided
to develop in cooperation a new battlefield
multirole helicopter. Germany wanted an
anti-tank platform later designed ‘UHT’, while
France needed an escort helicopter which
took the designation ‘HAP’.
Germany’s version features a recognizable
optronic mast on top of the rotor, while the
French version one carries a chin mounted
30mm gun. Five prototypes flew during the
1990s and production aircraft where
delivered to the armed forces in 2005.

This subject is not well covered in 1:48. The

only kits have been released by Italeri (ref
842 for HAP & 844 for UHT). The UHT variant
was reboxed by Revell and Heller.
The kits are quite simple, with basic details
but thankfully with engraved panel lines.
They depict the prototypes as seen in the
‘90s. I could see work would be needed to
achieve a good level of detail and bravely (or
foolishly!) I decided to build both versions.

37
 The kit cockpit is very basic some scratch-built detail
was added with plastic card and lead wire. Most of it
is fictional but the final view is limited and a ‘busy’
look is achieved.
The whole cockpit was primed with black.
Grey was sprayed from above with the airbrush in
order to highlight the upper surfaces. Then details are
painted using Vallejo acrylics which brush very well
with punchy colours that stand out against the black.

The canopy clear parts were

masked before assembly where possible.

The canopy does not fit well to the

The fuselage was closed around the cockpit tubs but the fit is poor fuselage. Some trimming and sanding is
with the resulting gaps requiring attention with some filler and needed. An ugly gap will remain here
subsequent careful sanding. Damaged surface detail needed without work. The gap was filled with
rescribing as usual. Deluxe Perfect Putty mixed with black
acrylic paint then smoothed with a wet
rubber sculpting tip. Sanding this area
would have been difficult and untidy.

38
I find a medical syringe is perfect for applying a A ‘V’ pointed blade and flexible plastic strip The kit filter housings are too long and need to be
precise bead of the filler and paint mix. were used to rectify any damaged panel lines. ‘cut and shut’.

On the French ‘HAP’, I decided to depict the version with the horizontal stabilizer positioned further forward
which required some surgery. First, the location was marked and drilled, then the holes were joined and
shaped to receive the stabilizer.
The stabilizer was cut in half and rods inserted with corresponding holes drilled. The two parts were inserted
from each side of the fuselage using the rods as a strong alignment. The gap at the root on each side required
a little filling and smoothing.

With some final fine

sanding and
preparation it was
time to prime the twin
Tigers using black Mr
Surfacer thinned with
Levelling thinner.

39
 To give the black surfaces some depth and highlights I airbrushed areas of white which were then
oversprayed with gradual thinned layers of Gunze Black. This is difficult to control and I found I lost the
tone-work in certain areas.

It was necessary to work the lighter tones back-in

with very diluted white applied very gradually.

The tones were now closer to what I had in mind Certain panels were masked and gradually airbrushed with Gunze H416, this is a
adding dimension to the models. slightly warmer tone which ads further interest and realism.

The initial airbrushed white

highlights on the black primer
look very stark and unrealistic.
Note the emphasis on panels
and edges.

40
 Weapons are painted in olive green. Orange
stripes as seen on the prototype aircraft are
made with orange masking tape found in a
craft shop.

Tail rotors are

detailed with
lead wire.

An overall coat of gloss clear gives a good surface The codes had to be illustrated on computer and
for weathering and decals. cut with a CAD plotter from masking film.

The kit decals are very nice. They are quite easy to
apply and conform very well using softer solution
from Mr Hobby.

All markings were sealed with another After the gloss clear areas are fully dried they were
coat of gloss. polished with wet Micromesh abrasive cloths.

A wash was applied to surface details with grey oil Excess wash is removed with a cotton pad. Reference images show a very matt black area
paint thinned with mineral spirit. on the tail section.
41
 On the HAP, the sensor lenses were After all the painting and weathering was done, all of the Some texture and further interest is added on
made with a punch and die tool in small antennas and details are set in place. selected surfaces using grey oil paint ‘dots’
an iridescent plastic sheet. A very thinned coat of flat varnish was airbrushed over all the blended with a flat brush or stippled using a piece
surfaces to harmonise the finish of foam.

With such a long drying time, oil paints are perfect for subtle The final, and surely the most satisfying part of a
effects and blending. project, removing of the glazing masks; with two
Tiny scratches and scuffs were suggested with a grey and helicopters it’s double the fun and my twin Tigers
white pencil, easier to control than even the finest brush. were complete. Although these kits aren’t up to the
standards we’d expect from new-tooled releases I
hope I’ve shown they can still produce a good
replica with some basic additions and considered
painting.

42
43
AIR 83 April May 19.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/03/2019 14:09 Page 45
 new releases

Tamiya 1:48 F-14D Tomcat

Its been a little while since Tamiya released their stunning F-14A carried over so no adjustable flight controls but to be honest they
Tomcat but now they have followed up with this release of the all fit so beautifully you wont care! New exhausts for the uprated
later D version most easily distinguished by under nose sensor F110 engine are provided with good internal and external details
pods. When I built the original release I was extremely impressed cancelling out the need for aftermarket replacements. The
by the kit and in re-examining the parts of this new version its refuelling probe can be modelled in the open position and there is
impossible to not feel the same way again. Obviously the kit also an option for the crew ladder to be deployed. Canopy
carries over many elements of the original A version but there are mouldings are just exceptional! The kit comes with a generous
new instrument panels for the updated digital displays in the assortment of weapons and here again the levels of detail are so
cockpit as well as new seats and updated pilots. The seats are good that there is no need to look further. The TARPS pod for
beautifully detailed, the only complaint being that the seat example comes with internal camera detail and clear moulded
harnesses are supplied as decals, but if you fit the pilots they are window sections. The kit comes with a choice of four different
not required. This is one of those kits where you can happily build schemes with a pleasing mix from the more colourful VF-213
the cockpit from the box with stunning results something which scheme seen on the boxart to the more muted VF-11 scheme.
always gets things off to a good start! I clearly recall the There is a separate decal sheet with the weapons stencils which
unbelievable engineering of the kit with nose section slide fitting also includes carbon fibre effects for the exhaust mounts and unit
into the main fuselage with a snug precision that I have yet to see markings for the crew helmets. There is also a set of paint
bettered. There are a few sprue runners to be removed from the masking stencils and self-adhesive stickers used to replicate
impressive lower fuselage moulding which just a fantastic reinforcement on the fuselage. Without doubt this is THE state of
48 example of Tamiya at the top of their game. The intakes will also the art Tomcat in this scale, a sheer delight to assemble and with
fit perfectly so no aggravation with filler and the wings which are just the right level of detail to be built from the box. Superb!
Real Colors of WWII Aircraft
This beautifuly presented limited edition hardback is a real visual treat for WWII
M.Goralczyk, G.T.Hogl, J.Kiroff, modellers drawing on the extensive research involved in AK’s new range of aircraft
N.Millman, M.V.Orlov ‘Real Colors’ (see below). Packed with colour profiles, period images (many in superb
original colour), factory paint plans and technical development information this book
Published by AK Interactive looks to dispell any myths and misinformation. Bringing together experts in their field,
Hardback format, 289 pages the largest WWII air-powers are covered; German, U.S., British and Soviet aircraft are
ISBN 8435568300385 extensively detailed with topics such as winter camouflage, interiors, evaluations and
non-standard finishes. The printing techniques use the very latest technology to
www.ak-interactive.com ensure the closest possible accuracy to colour swatches and profiles. Very detailed
research presented in an atractive and easily accessable way, highly recommended
to any modeller of WWII subjects.

AK Interactive Real Colors

You may have already seen vehicle and

armour modellers praising these acrylic
lacquers from AK, now the same extensive
research has been applied to produce a
range of no less than 133 aircraft colours
spanning WWII to modern subjects. As well
as specific RAL numbers etc there’s some
generic colours and metallics to compliment
and clear-coats to finish the job. If you’re a
fan of Tamiya and Gunze paints these are in
the same ball-park and in fact have been
developed to work in harmony with other
brands (thinning and mixing). The glass 10ml
(1.3fl.oz) jars follow the tried and tested
screw-cap presentation so are suitable for
brushing or airbrushing and can be thinned
with alcohol based liquid or just plain water.
We’ve found pleasing results airbrushing with
minimal ‘tip-drying’ resulting in a solid, quick
drying coat of colour which withstands
subsequent washes and weathering very
well. For the full story of this new impressive
range head over to www.ak-interactive.com
Our thanks to AK and UK supplier
www.ams-paints-and-accessories.com who
stock the individual jars and sets. 49
 Archer Fine Transfers
Long time saviours to the armour and railway modelling rivets are perfect for replicating raised rivet detail and are easily
communities, Archer are now offering a range of surface details to applied; if you can apply water-slide markings you can apply
aircraft modellers. Highly regarded for their massive range of dry- these. The circular / curved sets have a printed acetate overlay
rub transfers, Archer also have ranges of the more traditional guide to help you select the correct element from the sheet.
'water-slide' style decals as these new samples are. The Various spacings and scales are available and some excellent
difference with regular markings here is that the rivets are in fact pictorial instructions on application and various methods of
delicately moulded relief cast resin. Designed to be applied pre- preparing your kit's surface are available over at Archer's website
paint, the rows (single and double rows) and rings / curves of www.archertransfers.com

Messerschmitt Bf 109G Two new additions to the Top

Drawings series giving great
Maciej Noszczak modelling reference for the ever
Published by Kagero popular '109. Number 63
Softback format, 20 pages and provides highly detailed plans in
1:48 showing every fastener,
A3 pull-out plans/masks rivet and call-outs with diagrams
ISBN 9788366148086 of the development of G5,6,8,12
www.casematepublishers.co.uk and 14. Beautiful colour profiles
are also included with Swiss and
Romanian schemes offering a
Messerschmitt Bf 109G/K break from the norm. Canopy
Maciej Noszczak masks for the new Tamiya 1:48
kit are a bonus. Number 67
Published by Kagero
offers more of the same
Softback format, 24 pages and focussing on G1,2,3,4,10 and K4
A3 pull-out plans/masks with the inclusion of a large set
ISBN 9788366148086 of balkencruz vinyl masks in
various sizes.
www.casematepublishers.co.uk

More superb reference for Luftwaffe

Fw 190A modellers with two new releases of
Maciej Noszczak super-detailed plans and profiles in
Published by Kagero 1:48 and 1:72. Number 64
concentrates on the 190A with
Softback format, 20 pages and more superb profiles and some
A3 pull-out plans/masks close-up details of the engine bay
ISBN 9788366148093 and more close-ups of development
www.casematepublishers.co.uk details and variations. Number 66
focusses on the ground attack
versions of the Focke-Wulf, again
Fw 190S,F,G richly detailed drawings and colour
illustrations with the bonus of
Maciej Noszczak canopy masks in 1:72 and 1:48 and
Published by Kagero an A4 art print ready for framing. All
Softback format, 20 pages and of the Top Drawings releases are
A3 pull-out plans/masks English and Polish language and are
50 superb quality and value. Our
ISBN 9788366148161 thanks to Casemate UK for keeping
www.casematepublishers.co.uk us up to date with Kagero releases.
Eduard 1:72 Legie- SPAD XIII, Czech Pilots Limited Edition
And I thought the Dragon 1:48 SPAD looked like it would need elevates the finesse to the next level. A small pre-cut mask sheet
some delicate work; try this for size! This limited 'Legion' boxing of for the wheels / tyres and windshield is welcome and a handsome
Eduard's SPAD XIII shows a similar design as their larger 1:48 new decal sheet gives four options of Czech pilots aircraft (during
counterpart (namely the very welcome single piece upper section and post WWI). Decal quality is excellent, in particular the subtle
of the fuselage) and some very sound detail throughout for the blue tones of the French marking. If 1:48 is more your thing,
scale, the inclusion of Eduard's famed pre-coloured photoetch Eduard have released the exact package in quarter-scale also.

Dragon 1:48 SPAD 13

A blast from the past here with another release of DML's SPAD wing struts have always been a bugbear of this kit as aligning
XIII from the early 1990s. A pretty simple kit as we're reminded twelve individual points between the two could be rather
when popping the box lid, less than fifty parts are held on the frustrating. One outlandish colour scheme is offered as in the
sprues and around the same on the photoetched fret. Some fine previous release; the USAS 94th Aero Squadron, post WWI in
steel rod is also (ambitiously) included to provide rigging. Germany with the full-on 'Uncle Sam' look. The decals deal with
Moulding is good with some fine detail on show, maybe not to the some of the elements but much is left to masking and painting.
51
standard we expect from a brand new kit but the inclusion of the Still a good looking kit but these days the competition from
photoetch makes for a well detailed model from the box. The Eduard's version may be too strong?
 Italeri 1:32 TF-104G Starfighter
Can you believe it’s around five years since Italeri introduced the avionic bay doors. Ordnance is left over from the previous kit but
exciting large scale F-104 with a few options of single seater the wing-tip and under-wing fuel tanks can still be used. The
versions, we now are offered the natural follow-up with the two instructions are very well done and a separate colour booklet
seater / trainer TF-104G. We’re reminded instantly what a huge shows the superb marking options in full detail. The decal sheets
model this kit produces with some pleasing detail as you’d expect are poster sized! Printed by Cartograf we’re assured of quality
from an expensive kit in this scale. A small photoetch fret is as along with the quantity, no less than eight options cover two
‘fancy’ as Italeri usually get; this is included again along with the Italian, German, Spanish, Canadian, U.S., Belgian and Dutch air
option of displaying the tail removed and / or mounting the fully forces. No doubt these Italeri Starfighters are impressive display
rendered engine on a dolly / stand. More options include main pieces and a significant step-up from vintage kits of the subject
wheels, Lockheed or Martin Baker seats (with photoetched seat but at the price-point we’d expect a slightly sharper degree of
belts provided), posable canopies, posable control surfaces and moulding finesse to match the best in the business.

Italeri 1:72 Ju 86 E1 / E2
A real blast from the past here from Italeri with the lesser known raised panel lines and basic detail, not a bad kit but certainly
(well, lesser than the He111) Ju 86 bomber. The typical 1930s dated by modern standards. A big bonus with this release is the
design is distinctive and full of character, from memory this is still usual Italeri 'Super-decal' sheet which is well printed (if not a little
52 the only kit of the subject in 1:72 which has been released in many thick around the carrier film) offering six fetching schemes
guises since the mid '70s. So with no option you're stuck with including a Portuguese and South African version.
Bullseye Model Aviation Decals
If you're a builder of modern-era U.S. aircraft you must take a look with superb detail and register. The F-16 set contains fourteen
at what Bullseye are up to. The two latest additions to their range options and the F-15 a whopping twenty four markings to choose
are 48-007 designed for the Tamiya F-16CG/CM, 31st Fighter Wing from! Both contain comprehensive stencil markings with fully
'Return with Honor' and 48-008 designed to fit the Great Wall illustrated instructions. Superb packages which would keep even
Hobby F-15C 'Desert Storm Eagles'. Both sets are presented to a the most productive builders busy for quite some time! Available
very high standard with some obvious detailed and lengthy exclusively through on-line model store 'Sprue Brothers' at
research with every option illustrated in full colour on quality coated www.spruebrothers.com
paper. The large sheets are printed by the one and only Cartograf

Zvezda 1:72 MiG-15 'Fagot'

We were disappointed on lifting the lid on this new Zvezda release clumsy in 1:32! Even though the kit is well moulded with some
to find it's the old Dragon kit, Zvezda have been producing some good detail there's just no ignoring those rivets, especially when
excellent quality models of late but it's immediately apparent this there's already great MiG-15s on the market. Four Eastern Block 53
is vintage tooling; those recessed rivets would be considered marking options are included with nice stencilling.
 648420 648421

648418

634010 644006

648419

48977

48976
Eduard
If you’ve a fancy for Eduard’s new 1:48 Tempest there’s a whole load new Tempest 644006 and in 1:32 set 634010 for the Hasegawa /
of upgrades on offer if you’re looking to go the show-stopper route Eduard P-47D; both sets come complete with pre-coloured
to the ultimate replica, here’s some examples of what’s available. photoetch seatbelts. 48977 is a set of highly detailed photoetched
Two options of early and late wheel sets which are beautifully crisp Tempest landing flaps and to further enhance the kit there’s a set of
and detailed; 648420 is early aircraft and 648421 for later production external details in photoetch, set 48976. Finally in their ‘Brassin’
versions. The kit exhausts are nice but the limits of injection range is a set of beautifully done Tempest gun bays which include
moulding means they dont match the hollow openings and extra ammo boxes and gun breeches, removed panels which are detailed
finesse of these resin versions with set 648418. If you’ve not seen both sides and photoetched parts. This is just a sample of what
this new Eduard range you must take a ‘Löök’ as the name states, Eduard are adding to their huge catalogue, superb stuff.
the instument facias are quite something in 3D printed resin with www.eduard.cz
glazed faces on the guages. Two new additions are a set for the

Fury from the North

Douglas C. Dildy
Published by Helion and Co
Softback format, 80 pages
ISBN 9781912390335
www.casematepublishers.co.uk

With the exception of the 'Jet Age' skirmishes between U.S.

Sabres and MiG-15s little seems to be published about the
Korean Peoples Air Force (KPAF) in the conflict of the early
1950s. This new Asia at War' release from Helion replicates their
'Africa' series detailing lesser documented conflicts with plenty
of modelling reference and inspiration to perhaps motivate us to
build some more unusual colour schemes. Soviet early jets and
an interesting mix of piston-powered machines are displayed
with more than twenty top-quality colour profiles and some
images of preserved aircraft along with a good selection of
54
period black and white shots (including U.S. aircraft). A nicely
presented book on a little-known topic.
Eduard 1:48 Tempest Mk.V Series 1 ProfiPack Edition
We can't think of anyone doing more for aircraft modellers than need to be careful of how much paint you're applying! The airframe
Eduard. Not only content in bringing us some of the best photoetch also features posable control surfaces and detailed wheel wells…it
and resin upgrades on the market they've established themselves really leaves you wanting for nothing. The cockpit offers more depth
as producing some of the most mouthwatering kits available. The of detail only made better by the printed photoetch and the clear
recently released Tempest is a great example, available from the sprue offers an excellent canopy and lenses. Landing gear and
most basic approach (Eduards 'Overtrees' are sprues only in a plain wheels are also very nice with the smooth tyres not causing any
box) through to more deluxe offerings in their ProfiPack series which problems when hiding the joint, of course Eduard are offering a
include big decal choices, photoetched parts and pre-cut masks. multitude of detail upgrades, more of this later…Decals are by
Here we're presented exactly that, the beautiful Series One Cartograf and as always are crisp and in perfect register. Two
Tempest with a choice of six RAF markings and pre-coloured RNZAF markings and four RAF offer choices of with or without
photoetch. The level of surface detail Eduard achieve is quite invasion stripes, all UK based in 1944. Eduard set themselves a
staggering; not just a series of indents to suggest rivets but every high benchmark with their new generation Spitfires and Me 109s
fastener head, raised rivet, recessed rivet and various panel line but they continue to maintain the standard; superb.
gaps are represented faithfully with great finesse, so much so you
 Italeri 1:48 Tornado GR.1/IDS 'Gulf War'
Never noted as an easy build, the Italeri Tornado is back out with a technology so be prepared for a little filler work to get the best from
'Super-decal' makeover to offer six marking options including two this kit. As with many of these re-boxes by Italeri the decals are a
RAF and one Italian version from the 1991 Gulf War. As well as the highlight, this huge sheet is beautifully produced with great finesse
renowned fit issues the kit suffers some soft detail where the 90's including full markings for the big selection of ordnance. Probably
tooling shows it's age, because of this there's plenty of aftermarket not coincidence that this kit is re-released just at the Tornados
upgrades on offer. The design of the fuselage parts would be retirement from service.
ambitious for even the best manufacturers with modern tooling

72165 72166 48363

48362

48364

32140

32141

32139

Scale Aircraft Conversions

If your latest project is loaded with resin and photoetch you might want to think
about the extra support and strength SAC’s white metal landing gear offers as well
as some extra details. New additions to their huge catalogue are in 1:72 72165 for
Hasegawa Hornets F/A-18 A/B/C/D and 72166 for Airfix’s Wellington. In 1:48 we’ve
48362 for the Freedom Model’s IDF F-CK-1C/D, 48363 is for the brand new Tamiya
Spitfire featured in our previous issue and 48364 for Revell’s Beaufighter. In 1:32 for
the legendary Wingnut Wings kits is 32139 for the AMC DH.2 and 32141for the
56
FE.2B. Finally in 1:32 for the fresh Hobby Boss B-24J is set 32140. All the details
and full range are over at www.scaleaircraftconversions.com
 F4U-1A
CORSAIR

58
MODELLED BY GEORGE L. JOHNSON
Design of the Corsair began in 1938 at the request of the
US Navy who wanted a high-performance, carrier-based
replacement for the Brewster F-2A and the Grumman
F-4F. By 1940, the gull-winged F4U Corsair became a
formidable fighter that not only out-performed Japanese
aircraft, but most allied ones as well, and is considered
by many as the best piston engined fighter ever built.
The last Corsairs rolled off the assembly line in 1952.

Originally designed as a carrier-based aircraft, the

Corsair was re-assigned to land based operations while
the F-6F Hellcat remained at sea. This was primarily a
logistical decision as it was easier to supply ships with
parts for one type of aircraft. The Corsair was adopted by
the US Marine Corps and used extensively in campaigns
in the South Pacific. Other countries used the Corsair
including Britain, Australia, and New Zealand. My model
represents a plane used by the RNZAF. The planes and
their crews received a lot of abuse from the weather, the
mosquitoes, the coral dust, the enemy, and all the
components that contribute to the misery that plagued
the small, often remote islands in the South Pacific.

I decided to build the excellent Tamiya kit because of it’s

accuracy, beautiful detail and brilliant engineering. I’ve
built plenty of models where even the most minor sub-
assemblies are difficult, ill-fitting little nightmares that
require way too much time and effort to correct. I knew I
wouldn’t go wrong with this kit and I was proven correct.
I chose to build a Royal New Zealand Air Force version
because not enough credit has been given to other
countries whose men and women served in this
incredible conflict, and because I liked the Donald Duck
on the side of the fuselage. The beat up, faded, pitted,
worn paint also had a little to do with it

I decided I was going to keep it simple and build it as

much as I could out of the box. The only after market
products I used were a fantastic set of seatbelts from
HGW, Montex masks and decals, and a PE placard set
from Eduard.

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 The Cockpit

I painted the cockpit using AK Xtreme metals and Mr Paint

lacquers. These are really excellent paints that go on smoothly
and with excellent coverage. I used Tire Black as the main shade
for the instrument panel and side consoles and highlighted areas
with light and darker shades of the same colour. This breaks up
the surface reflectance and creates a much more realistic
appearance than a solid, flat-looking colour. The same technique
was used for the cockpit green. The top surfaces of components
were sprayed with a lighter colour and the lower surfaces with
darker tones. Before I did this, I prepared the parts for chipping
and wear. I primed the parts with Mr Paint Primer then painted the
areas I was going to chip with AK Interactive Dark Aluminium. I let
everything dry for a few hours. I then decanted some hairspray
from a can into a cup and let the foam settle out. This then went
into my airbrush cup, and I gave the parts a light coating of
hairspray followed by a slightly heavier coat after a few minutes.

The parts were then painted and set aside to dry for about 30
minutes. I then used an old stiff brush and a little water and
carefully coerced the paint off the parts being mindful careful not
to go too far. Once that was done to my satisfaction, I used pin
washed of dark brown and black here and there, and added the
placards and HGW seatbelts

As is usual for me, I forgot that I should probably have read the
instructions that came with the PE set before starting. So, after
assembling many of the tiny components, I saw that the placards
required removal of surface detail on the Tamiya parts. Anyway, I
scraped away as much as I could and as carefully as I could, but
ended up damaging some of the parts. I repaired the damage,
but that took a little extra time. Live and learn, and always read
the directions.

I was originally going to purchase a resin

engine, but when I saw how beautiful the
engine parts looked on the sprues, I
decided against it. The engine builds into a
miniature model all by itself. The detail
provided by Tamiya is simply outstanding
and without compare. I only had to add
spark plug cables made from .015”
(.0.3mm) diameter lead wire. I find that
lead wire is easier to bend than copper
wire especially in and around tight spots as
a radial engine.

I painted the cylinders with AK Interactive

Aluminium and Mr Paint for the crankcase
pumps. Once again, I added pin washes
using Ammo of Mig Blue Black Panel Line
Wash and Dark Brown. The oil stains at the
front was created using a mixture of Mig
Fresh Engine Oil, white spirits, black and
brown pastel chalks. I dabbed a drop on
the front of the engine and spread it out in
60 the same manner as the airflow would.
 Wings

Tamiya gives the modeller the choice of building the plane with the
wings up or down. I chose the former. There are quite a few parts that
are specific to each configuration. I didn’t pay attention and ended up
using the wrong parts that required replacing later in the build. I did that
quite a bit during this build! Wheel wells, oil coolers, and various rods
and levers get installed as well during this phase. Wheel wells were
painted with Mr Paint Insignia White and various washes were applied,
primarily Mig Dark Brown to accent the surface details.

Landing Gear

Assembly was straight forward and I painted these in the usual fashion
Using the highly durable Mission Models Insignia White paint. These
were weathered using several washes combined with Mig pigments. I
used photos of Pacific islands to see what coral dust looks like and
mimicked those as best I could. I also used the Tamiya vinyl wheels
provided in the kit and sanded them down with 100 and 180 grit
sanding sticks. The were also given a wash and a slurry of pigments to
given them that well worn look.

The F4U used a gigantic 13 foot (4 meter) diameter propellor which is why it required the
bent wing design. I wanted to treat this as an important part of the model because
modellers often ignore this important feature, and since this plane was going to be
heavily weathered, it had to match.

I began by scraping the minute seam lines from the edges of the 3 separate blades. This
had to be done with care because I didn’t want to accidentally run the knife tip across
any of the blade surfaces. I attached the blades to the hub, I then sanded each blade
with 300 grit through 1500 grit wet/dry sand paper to remove all glue seams, and wiped
everything down with Mr Color Paint Thinner 400. At this point in the build, I began using
Mission Models Paints. I had never used them before, but after a little experimentation
and practise, I got used to them and used them almost exclusively for the rest of the
build.

The prop was then sprayed with primer and allowed to dry overnight. The next day I
painted a base coat of AK Aluminium and let this thoroughly dry for about 2 hours. I
sprayed hairspray onto the leading edges and let that dry. I then used Mission Models
paint tire black, black, and dirty black to spray over that in a random pattern. Yellow was
used on the tips After that dried for a few minutes, I hit it with my trusty stiff brush and
water to chip the leading edges and other spots on the blades. I had to be really careful
here to make it look like air friction had caused the wear. He decals were applied and
everything got several washes of neutral gray and dark brown.
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 Painting

I wasn’t really sure how I was going to achieve the effects I finally were going to be sprayed. A very light run of 4000 grit cloth was
ended up with so I experimented with salt and hairspray. I actually given to all the surfaces to remove any rough spots and the model
decided on using only the salt technique which at first looks was then blown over with compressed air.
confusing, but is actually pretty easy to accomplish. It’s also easy The second step was to apply the metallic coat. I used AK Xtreme
to over-do as I found out! metal Dark Aluminium for this because I didn’t want the final bare
metal effects to look too obvious, and it is a very durable paint
The first step consisted of laying down a primer coat. In this case, that resists washes and abuses. The trick to all of this is to keep
I used Mission Models Grey Primer. I laid down very thin coats so all the effects as subtle as possible. I varied the tones a little by
as to not block up any details since five or six different colours spraying some are with AK steel and plain Aluminium.

I let this dry for a few minutes and sprayed a fine mist of water The third step involved spraying the model with yellow Chromate
onto the metallic areas. I found out that the water beaded up in paint. The salt masks out the yellow leaving the metallic paint
some areas only. I solved this by adding a drop or two of dish underneath untouched. It’s okay to overspray because those will
soap to the sprayer and repeated the process. This worked receive the salt treatment, too.
perfectly and I took some salt from a salt grinder and sprinkled it
over the moistened areas. I let this dry thoroughly before the next
paint step.

The paint was allowed to dry overnight and the salt was rubbed look beaten up and worn I used a mixture of Mission Models
and rinsed off. The coarseness of the salt actually scratches the Paints Intermediate Blue, Blue Grey, White and Sea Blue,
paint a little as it’s rubbed off and this is not a bad thing. The modulating the tones by adding white or Sea Blue. I also sprayed
fourth step is basically a repeat of the third. Salt was again spread Sea Blue patches along panel lines according to references I
onto the surfaces and this time, a little pre-shading was applied. found.
Next, the blues were sprayed on. Because I wanted the plane to
62
I removed the salt once again and was left with a clownish mess. probably attribute this to my lack of experience using them. They
The effect was way too exaggerated so I decided to use an seemed to work very well on flat surfaces like the wings, but the
additional technique. I gave the model a very light coat of my soft PVC distorted easily when applied to the compound curves of
custom bluish-grey mixture that was just thick enough to barely the fuselage. I couldn’t get all the pieces of the mask to register
cover the yellow/metal areas. This way I could see where exactly properly and ended up removing the half the paint on the model
those areas resided. The paint was allowed to dry for about an when I saw how bad it looked. Luckily, I didn’t panic and throw the
hour after which I took my trusty stiff brush and dipped it water model away. I made my own masks using the kit decals as a
and began scrubbing the areas where I wanted the wear to show. template and copied them onto sheets of tamiya masking film.
This hybrid technique ended up working perfectly. This took many tries to get right, but it all worked out pretty well in
the end.
I was originally going to use Montex masks for the National
insignias, and I did, but the results were disappointing and I

63
64
Weathering was pretty straightforward. I used various panel line varnish was used on this build. I was able to achieve a really
washes depending on the tones and the effect I wanted to beautiful, patina-like finish by buffing the model with a lint-free
accomplish. I also used a few filters using white, brown and blue paper towel that I purchased from a plastics supply store. Buffing
oils by placing tiny dots of paint on some of the surfaces and then had the advantage of actually wearing off paint from raised areas
brushing them lightly with a brush moistened in white spirit. such as screws and hinges giving them a subtle, but realistic
appearance.
Oil and gas stains were created by using a little Mig Fresh Engine
Oil effect, brown and black chalk pastels, and white spirit. Drops All in all, this was an enjoyable project that resulted in a beautiful
of this slurry were placed on the model and a clean, dry airbrush model without the use of a lot of after market items.
was used to blow if around just as the airstream would in flight.
One last point I want to mention is that not a single drop of

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