ANALOG MULTITESTER

Analog multitesters are those that have a moving needle that stops on a number that is printed on the
background behind the moving needle. The number that the needle stops on indicates the volts, ohms or
amps the meter is measuring depending on how the control knob is set. Analog multimeters are cheaper
than digital multimeters but not as robust or simple to use. Analog multimeters are preferred by some
technicians because the movement of the needle can show you some things that are not so obvious with
digital multimeters.

Pointer or Needle – indicates the values read from the scale

Scale – shows the value of what is being measured

Dial/Infinity Knob – points the needle to the 0 at the left side of the scale

Zero Ohm Adjuster – adjusts the needle to the right side of the scale

Range Selector Knob – allows changing the function and scale

Range – allows more accurate measurement for small values

Test Probes – Positive probe (red) and Negative Probe (black) are used to connect to the circuit or device
under test.
How to Use a Multitester

 Getting Familiar with the device

1. Locate the dial of your multimeter. This has the arc-shaped scales visible through the window and a
pointer which will indicate the values read from the scale.
 The arc-shaped marks on the meter dial face may be different colors that indicate each scale, so
they will have different values. These determine the ranges of magnitude.
 A wider mirror-like surface shaped like the scales might also be present. The mirror is used to help
reduce what's called "parallax viewing error," by lining up the pointer with its reflection before
reading the value the pointer is indicating. In the image, it appears as a wide gray strip between
the red and black scales.
 Many newer multimeters have digital readouts, rather than the analog scale. The function is
basically the same, you'll just get a numerical readout

2. Find the selector switch, or knob. This allows you to change the function between volts, ohms, and
amps, and to change the scale (x1, x10, etc.) of the meter. Many functions have multiple ranges, so
it's important to have both set correctly, otherwise serious damage to the meter or harm to the
operator may result.

 Some meters have an "Off" position on this selector switch while others have a separate
switch to turn the meter off. The meter should be set to "Off" when stored and not in use.

3. Locate the openings in the case where you'll insert the test leads. Most multimeters have several
jacks used for this purpose.
 One is usually labeled "COM" or (-), which stands for common. This is where the black test
lead will be connected. It will be used for nearly every measurement taken.
 The other jack or jacks should be labeled "V" (+) and the Omega symbol (an upside-down
horseshoe) for Volts and Ohms, respectively.
 The + and - symbols represent the polarity of probes when set for and testing DC volts. If
the test leads were installed as suggested, the red lead would be positive as compared to
the black test lead. This is nice to know when the circuit under test isn't labeled + or -, as is
usually the case.
 Many meters have additional jacks that are required for current or high-voltage tests. It is
equally important to have the test leads connected to the proper jacks as it is to have the
selector switch range and test type (volts, amps, ohms) set. All must be correct. Consult the
meter manual if you're unsure which jacks should be used.
4. Locate the test leads. There should be two test leads or probes. Generally, one is black and the other
red. These are used to connect to whatever device you’re planning on testing and measuring.

5. Find the battery and fuse compartment. This is usually found on the back but is also
sometimes on the side of some models. This holds the fuse (and possibly a spare), and the
battery that supplies power to the meter for resistance tests.

 The meter may have more than one battery and they may be of different sizes. A fuse is
provided to help protect the meter movement. Likewise, there is often more than one fuse.
A good fuse is required for the meter to function, and fully charged batteries will be
required for resistance/continuity tests.

6. Find the Zero Adjustment knob. This is a small knob usually located near the dial that is
labeled "Ohms Adjust," "0 Adj," or something similar. This is used only in the ohms or
resistance range, while the probes are shorted together (touching each other).

 Rotate the knob slowly to move the needle as close to the 0 position on the Ohms scale as
possible. If new batteries are installed, this should be easy to do - a needle that will not go
to zero indicates weak batteries that should be replaced.

 Measuring Resistance

1. Set the multimeter to Ohms or Resistance. Turn the meter on if it has a separate power
switch. When multimeter measures resistance in ohms, it cannot measure continuity
because resistance and continuity are opposites. When there is little resistance, there will
be a great deal of continuity, and vice versa. With this in mind, you can make assumptions
about continuity based on the resistance values measured.

 Find the Ohm scale on the dial. It is usually the top-most scale and has values that are
highest on the left of the dial ("∞" or a sideways "8" for infinity), gradually reducing to 0
on the right. This is opposite of the other scales, which have the lowest values on the left
and increase going right.

2. Observe the meter indication. If the test leads are not in contact with anything, the needle or
pointer of an analog meter will rest at the left-most position. This represents an infinite amount
of resistance, or an "open circuit." It's safe to say there is the no continuity, or path between the
black and red probes.
3. Connect the test leads. Connect the black test lead to the jack marked "Common" or "-".
Then, connect the red test lead to the jack marked with the Omega (Ohm symbol) or letter "R"
near it.

 Set the range (if provided) to R x 100.

4. Hold the probes at the end of the test leads together. The meter pointer should move fully
to the right. Locate the "Zero Adjust" knob and rotate it so that the meter indicates "0" (or as
close to "0" as possible).

 Note that this position is the "short circuit" or "zero ohms" indication for this R x 1 range
of this meter.
 Always remember to "zero" the meter immediately after changing resistance ranges or
you'll get a faulty reading.
 If you're unable to obtain a zero ohm indication, this may mean the batteries are weak and
should be replaced. Retry the zeroing step above again with fresh batteries.

5. Measure the resistance of something like a light bulb that you know is good. Locate the
two electrical contact points of the bulb. They will be the threaded base and the center of the
bottom of the base.

 Have a helper hold the bulb by the glass only.

6. Try different ranges. Change the range of the meter to R x 1. Zero the meter again for this
range and repeat the step above. Observe how the meter did not go as far to the right as before.
The scale of resistance has been changed so that each number on the R scale can be read
directly.

 In the previous step, each number represented a value that was 100 times greater. Thus,
150 really was 15,000 before. Now, 150 is just 150. Had the R x 10 scale been selected,
150 would have been 1,500. The scale selected is very important for accurate
measurements.
 With this understanding, study the R scale. It is not linear like the other scales. Values at
the left side are harder to accurately read than those on the right. Trying to read 5 ohms on
the meter while in the R x 100 range would look like 0. It would be much easier at the R x
1 scale instead. This is why when testing resistance, adjust the range so that the readings
may be taken from the middle rather than the extreme left or right sides.
7. Test resistance between hands. Set the meter to the highest R x value possible and zero the
meter.

 Loosely hold a probe in each hand and read the meter. Squeeze both probes tightly. Notice
the resistance is reduced.
 Let go of the probes and wet your hands. Hold the probes again. Notice that the resistance
is lower still.

8. Make sure your reading is accurate. It's very important that the probes not touch anything
other than the device being tested. A device that has burned out will not show "open" on the
meter when testing if your fingers provide an alternate path around the device, like when they
are touching the probes.

 Testing round cartridge type and older style glass automotive fuses will indicate low values
of resistance if the fuse is lying on a metal surface when under test. The meter indicates the
resistance of the metal surface that the fuse is resting upon (providing an alternate path
between the red and black probe around the fuse) instead of trying to determine resistance
through the fuse. Every fuse in this case, good or bad, will indicate "good," giving you a
faulty analysis.

 Measuring Voltage

1. Set the meter for the highest range provided for AC Volts. Many times, the voltage to be
measured has a value that is unknown. For this reason, the highest range possible is selected
so that the meter circuitry and movement will not be damaged by voltage greater than expected.

 If the meter were set to the 50 volt range and a common U.S. electrical outlet were to be
tested, the 120 volts present could irreparably damage the meter. Start high and work
downward to the lowest range that can be safely displayed

2. Insert your test probes. Insert the black probe in the "COM" or "-" jack. Next, insert the red
probe in the "V" or "+" jack.

3. Locate the voltage scales. There may be several Volt scales with different maximum values.
The range chosen by the selector knob determines which voltage scale to read.
  The maximum value scale should coincide with selector knob ranges. The voltage scales,
unlike the Ohm scales, are linear. The scale is accurate anywhere along its length. It will
of course be much easier accurately reading 24 volts on a 50 volts scale than on a 250 volts
scale, where it might look like it is anywhere between 20 and 30 volts.

4. Test a common electrical outlet. In the US, you might expect 120 volts or even 240 volts. In
other places, 240 or 380 volts might be expected.

 Press the black probe into one of the straight slots. It should be possible to let go of the
black probe, as the contacts behind the face of the outlet should grip the probe, much like
it does when a plug is inserted.
 Insert the red probe into the other straight slot. The meter should indicate a voltage very
close to 120 or 240 volts (depending on type outlet tested).

5. Remove the probes. Rotate the selector knob to the lowest range offered that is greater than
the voltage indicated (120 or 240).

6. Reinsert the probes as previously. The meter may indicate between 110 and as much as 125
volts this time. The range of the meter is important to obtain accurate measurements.

 If the pointer did not move, it is likely that DC was chosen instead of AC. The AC and DC
modes are not compatible. The correct mode must be set. If not set correctly, the user would
mistakenly believe there was no voltage present, which could be a dangerous mistake.
 Be sure to try both modes if the pointer does not move. Set meter to AC volts mode, and
try again.

7. Try not to hold both. Whenever possible, try to connect at least one probe in such a way that
it will not be required to hold both while making tests. Some meters have accessories that include
alligator clips or other types of clamps that will assist doing this. Minimizing your contact with
electrical circuits drastically reduces that chances of sustaining burns or injury.

 Measuring Amperes

1. Make sure you've measured the voltage first. You need to determine whether or not the circuit is
AC or DC by measuring the voltage of the circuit as described in previous steps.

2. Set the meter to the highest AC or DC Amp range supported. If the circuit to be tested is
AC but the meter will only measure DC amps (or vice versa), stop. The meter must be able to
measure the same mode (AC or DC) amps as the voltage in the circuit, otherwise it will indicate
0.
  Be aware that most multimeters will only measure extremely small amounts of current, in
the uA and mA ranges. 1 uA is .000001 amp and 1 mA is .001 amp. These are values of
current that flow only in the most delicate electronic circuits and are literally thousands
(and even millions) of times smaller than values seen in the home and automotive circuits
that most homeowners would be interested testing.
 Just for reference, a typical 100W / 120V light bulb will draw .833 Amps. This amount of
current would likely damage the meter beyond repair.

3. Consider using a "clamp-on" ammeter. Ideal for the homeowner, this meter were to be
used to measure current through a 4700 ohms resistor across 9 Volts DC.

 To do this, insert the black probe into the "COM" or "-" jack and insert the red probe into
the "A" jack.
 Shut off power to the circuit.
 Open the portion of the circuit that is to be tested (one lead or the other of the resistor).
Insert the meter in series with the circuit such that it completes the circuit. An ammeter is
placed in series with the circuit to measure current. It cannot be placed "across" the circuit
the way a voltmeter is used (otherwise the meter will probably be damaged).
 Observe the polarity. Current flows from the positive side to the negative side. Set the range
of current to the highest value.
 Apply power and adjust range of meter downward to allow accurate reading of pointer on
the dial. Do not exceed the range of the meter, otherwise it may be damaged. A reading of
about 2 milliamps should be indicated since from Ohm's law I = V / R = (9 volts)/(4700 Ω)
= .00191 amps = 1.91 mA.

4. Be wary of any filter capacitors or other elements that require an inrush (surge) current
when switched on. Even if the operating current is low and within the range of the meter fuse, the
surge can be many times higher than the operating current, because the empty filter capacitors are
almost like a short circuit. Blowing the meter fuse is almost certain if the DUT's (device under
test) inrush current is many times higher than the fuses rating. In any case, always use the higher
range measurement protected by the higher fuse rating and be careful.