International Journal of Textile Science 2016, 5(5): 110-118

DOI: 10.5923/j.textile.20160505.03

Finishing Effects on Coloured Knit Fabrics through

Implementation of Effective Parameters
Md. Mostafizur Rahman1,*, Muhammad Abu Taher1, Mst. Zakia Sultana1, Ashaduzzaman1,
Md. Shipan Mia1, Mohammad Sohel Rana2,*

1
School of Textile Chemistry & Chemical Engineering, Wuhan Textile University, Wuhan, China
2
School of Textile Science & Engineering, Southeast University, Dhaka, Bangladesh

Abstract Finishing is used to improve the appearance, imparting functionality and enhancing durability as well as
process ability of the textile products. Different processes are associated with the complete production of Coloured fabrics to
get the finished fabric. Finishing processes are carried out to improve the natural properties or attractiveness of the fabric and
to increase its serviceability. Every natural fiber is noted for some properties but it lacks some other properties which are
essential during its end-use. The term finishing, in a broad sense, covers all the processes which the fabric undergoes after
leaving the loom or the knitting machine to the stage at which it enters the market. Thus the term also includes bleaching,
dyeing, mercerizing etc. but normally the term is restricted to the final stage in the sequence of treatment of Knit fabrics after
bleaching and dyeing. Major processes control parameters in all machines are discussed briefly to optimizing the faults
through this machine control process and some visible hindrance. Based on the overall performance it can be said that this
paper gathers all the information’s related to knit-finishing factory and analyze the fault’s, causes and some ideas are
suggested which can meet modern textile trends and customer demand.
Keywords Finishing, Dyeing, Quality, Textile, Softener

finishing processes employed will depend on the properties

1. Introduction required in the fabric with respect to its use and its natural
properties [4, 5].
Textile finishing, in a restricted sense, is the term used for The term finishing, in a broad sense, covers all the
a series of processes to which all bleached, dyed, printed and processes which the fabric undergoes after leaving the loom
certain grey fabrics are subjected before they are put on the or the knitting machine to the stage at which it enters the
market. The aim of textile finishing is to render textile goods market [6, 7]. Thus the term also includes bleaching, dyeing,
fit for their purpose or end-use [1]. This is achieved by mercerizing etc.. But normally the term is restricted to the
subjecting them to various processes. Finishing can be final stage in the sequence of treatment of Knit fabrics after
classified according to the purposes of bleaching and dyeing [8, 9]. However, fabrics which are
enhancement-organdie, lusture, crease-resistance, filling, neither bleached nor dyed are also finished [10]. Some
softness, proofing (shower-proofing or water-repellency, finishing processes such as creping of silk and rayon,
mildew-proofing, moth-proofing, flame- proofing or flame mercerization of cotton or crabbing of wool are carried out as
retardancy. antistatic, soil-resistance etc.) and serviceability a part of the first phase of fabric treatment or even earlier, in
(dimensional stability, improved fastness to washing, l he form of yam [11, 12]. Hence finishing is the term usually
improved fastness to storage, resistance to fiber slippage, employed for processes other than scouring, bleaching,
improved wearing quality etc.) [2, 3]. dyeing or printing, to which the fabrics are subjected to
In another sense finishing processes are carried out to improve their appearance, properties and serviceability.
improve the natural properties or attractiveness of the fabric Finishing methods include chemical modifications of the
and to increase its serviceability (in that order). Every natural materials and imparting to it dimensional stability, crease
fiber is noted for some properties but it lacks some other resistance and anti-shrink properties [13, 14]. The techniques
properties which are essential during its end-use. Hence, the of finishing depend on: chemical composition, state, weave,
Nature of the fabric, physical properties of the fabric, The
* Corresponding author:
[email protected] (Md. Mostafizur Rahman) end-use of the material, Susceptibility to chemical
Published online at http://journal.sapub.org/textile modifications, Receptivity of the fabric to various finishing
Copyright © 2016 Scientific & Academic Publishing. All Rights Reserved operations [15, 16].
 International Journal of Textile Science 2016, 5(5): 110-118 111

2. Experimental Textiles are: Softener, Biopolishing, Enzyme, UV Protection,

Anticrease, Silicon Finish etc. Mechanical finish is
2.1. Materials Shrinkage, Raising and Shearing finish and others.
Finishing agents those are used for chemical finishing of

Figure 1. Fabric passage on Tube squeezer m/c

Table 1. Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Tube squeezer

Fabric path on m/c Function

Fabric trolley is placed on the turn table which can rotate in clockwise or anticlockwise direction. It is connected to the
Turn Table
de-twister sensor via inverter. It will rotate to remove twist from the fabric. Fabric is feed to the machine from this trolley.
Fabric is passed through J- box padder in which padder pressure can be maintained in the range of 1-5 bar. 20% water is
extracted here.
J-Box Fabric is then stored in flexible tray which can move up & down direction. When fabric load is high then the tray will
automatically lowered & s. When fabric load is reduced the tray tops the feeding of the fabric. When fabric load is reduced will
move upward & fabric feeding will be started again.
A sensor device is present here, which can detect twist in the fabric. If any twist goes through the de-twister, it will rotate in
De-Twister
clockwise or anticlockwise direction to remove twist and easy passage of fabric.
This is used to control the dia of tubular knit fabric. This devise holds the two sides of the fabric in tube form and two sensors are
Dia-extension r/r
present here, which detect hole in the fabric. If any hole is appeared then the sensor will off the m/c
Fabric is washed with water to remove unfixed dyes and impurities. Fabric is ringed continuously during the passage and
Water Tray
constant water level (80 Lt) is maintained here. Emersion r/r is used to immerse the fabric to the water tray.
Air-pressure r/r Air is applied to make the fabric in balloon form. This will help to prevent crease mark formation due to padder pressure.
Padder Fabric is squeeze here with the help of two large padderes to remove 60% water
After squeezing the fabric will be stored in pilling tray which relaxes the fabric. Sensor device is present which detect fabric
Pilling Tray
load. When fabric load is high then fabric feeding will be reduced automatically.
Fabric is passed through the chemical tray which is connected to the chemical tank. Chemicals can be applied to the fabric by
Chemical Tray
this tray. Immersion r/r is used to ensure maximum wet medium.
Air-pressure r/r Air is applied to make the fabric in balloon form. This will help to prevent crease mark formation due to padder pressure.
Fabric is squeeze here with the help of two large padderes to remove excess chemical. Padder pressure can be maintained as
Padder
required but will be less then back padder.
Fabric dia extension is done with the help of shaft. Sensor is present here to detect hole. Fabric dia will be kept more than the
Shaft
required dia because fabric remain 40% wet after squeezing.
Delivery zone Fabric is delivered via folder which moves like pendulum to fold the fabric.
112 Md. Mostafizur Rahman et al.: Finishing Effects on Coloured Knit
Fabrics through Implementation of Effective Parameters

2.2. Method After dyeing process from the dyeing machine then the
Normally finishing process is of two kinds 1. Chemical fabrics arc ready for dc-watering. This is the process to
finishing and 2. Mechanical finish. By obtaining those remove the water from the fabric partially by squeezing But
process we get these results: Easy – care, Crease recovery, here we have to control the some important factor. Like
Dimensional stability, Good abrasion resistance, Improved width of the fabric, spirality of the fabric, crease mark of the
tear strength, Good sew ability, Soft or stiff handle, Shine or fabric.
lusture .
Table 2. Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Relax Dryer

Fabric path in m/c Function

Fabric trolley is placed in front of the m/c & fabric is passed over guide r/r. Those rollers maintain uniform tension of fabric &
Fabric Trolley
ensure uniform passage of fabric.
Wheel Wheel is used to control tubular fabric dia. Fabric dia in this wheel will be more than the required finished dia.
Over Feed r/r Over feed the fabric in the dryer.
Fabric enters in the dryer in contact with net. There are 4 sets of net which extend throughout the dryer. Each net forms endless
Net
loop. Those nets provides 3 times more dwell time to the fabric. Net position is maintained with the help of sensor.
Heating is done with super heated steam. Steam is entered to the heat exchanger through steam pipe. There are 4 heat
Heating Chamber
exchangers through which heat is applied to the fabric.
Blowers are used to spread heat from heat exchanger through the whole dryer. There are 8 blowers which are run by individual
Blower
motor.
Out line Exhaust fan is used to remove exhausted air from the drying zone.
Folder Folder delivers the fabric to the trolley. Fabric feeding to the folder is controlled by delivery r/r.

Table 3. Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Tubular Compactor

Fabric path on m/c Function

Trolley Fabric trolley is placed in front of the machine. From this trolley fabric is feed to the machine.
Tube fabric is passed through the wheel to control fabric dia. Sensor is present here and if any hole is going to pass
Feeding zone
through this section, the m/c automatically stops.
Steam tray is present after feeding zone. Steam is applied to soften the fabric. On the top of this zone exhaustion unit is
Steam Tray
present to remove extra steam.
The spreader spread the fabric and set the required width of the fabric. Magnet is used to hold the wheel which control
Fabric Spreading Zone
fabric width. Sensor is also present here to ensure proper feeding and to detect hole.
Steam is applied to heat and wet the fabric for proper compacting action. Steam supporter is present here to support
Steam Supply Zone
steaming action. Extra steam will out through steam out line.
The fabric is passed through compacting zone. Compacting action is done by the action of heated cylinder in the lower
Compacting Zone side and blanket in the upper side. The blanket is wrapped over the cylinder and proper compaction is done by the help
of blanket. Sensor is present to fix the blanket.
Fabric folder delivers the fabric to the delivery tray. Here fabric supporter is present to press the fabric ply and when
Fabric Delivery Zone
required amount of fabric is stored in the delivery tray, it will automatically pass folded fabric to delivery zone

Figure 2. Fabric passage diagram in tube compactor machine

 International Journal of Textile Science 2016, 5(5): 110-118 113

Figure 3. Fabric passage in open squeezer m/c

Figure 4. Fabric passage on open compactor

After squeezer fabric comes to dryer machine. Dryer Stenter machine in very important for finishing knit fabric
machine is used to dry the fabric with the help of the steam. in open form. It can be used for those functions: Apply
Besides drying it controls the shrinkage and prepares the chemical and softener, To dart set the T/C fabric, Drying of
fabric for the next process. fabric, To control width, Curing of fabric, Apply pigment
Tube compactor is used to finish knit fabric in tube form. dyeing, control GSM, control shrinkage, decrease spirality,
The basic functions of the Tube compactor machine is To decrease bowing effect, Surface coating for teflon finish,
control the GSM. (Increase & decrease), control the dia, Apply soil release chemical finish, Heat set for cotton/lycra
control the shrinkage. (Increase & decrease). fabric.
For open width fabric, after dyeing fabric comes in this Ultra soft machine is used to increase softness of fabric.
machine for slitting and squeezing. Here fabric is cut through This is a mechanical process of finishing.
the dia mark and squeezing is also done. By the brushing machine back side of the fleece fabric is
Controlling parameters of open squeezer are Speed, brushed.
Padder pressure and Air Pressure. In case of light color There are several machines are used for knit fabric
padder pressure should be low. Otherwise shade will be finishing. Every machine is used for a particular effect.none
lighter. If the padder is not clean, then line mark can appear of them are less important then each other. According to the
in the fabric. If low gsm S/J fabric is processing, then padder requirement each machine has their pirticular use.
pressure and speed will be maximum. If high gsm fabric is Mainly finishing is necessary for all kind of fabrics both
processing, then padder pressure and speed will be knit and woven fabrics. Now a days finishing technology is
minimum. receiving a versitile improvement. One machine is not not
Open Compactor has the the basic functions of the Open providing only one kind of finishing like if we talk about
compactor machine is to compact the fabric in open form stenter then we can see that we normally use it to dry open
&he basic functions of the Open compactor machine is to weidth fabrics but it also used for heat setting of knit fabrics,
compact the fabric in open form & control the GSM. for application of differnt kind of chemicals for controlling
(Increase & decrease), control the dia, control the shrinkage. dia and shrinkage etc.
(Increase & decrease).
114 Md. Mostafizur Rahman et al.: Finishing Effects on Coloured Knit
Fabrics through Implementation of Effective Parameters

Table 4. Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of stenter machine

Fabric in different
Function
Parts of the m/c.

Feeding through The fabric is fee through tension r/r and passes in between two centering device to straight the fabric. Here expender 2
the tension r/r rollers are present to ensure uniform feeding of the fabric.

If the fabric is treated by using 2 padders then, at first the fabric is immersed to the water tray by immersion r/r then
Fabric in padding squeezed by padder. Then the fabric is passed through chemical tray where softener is used. If one padder is used then, only
zone chemical application is done by the padder. After chemical tray the fabric is squeezed to remove excess chemicals. Here
padder pressure is less than the front padder pressure & will be 0-10bar

Tension adjust r/r Here tension is adjusted by sensor. The tension r/r will move upward direction if fabric feeding is lowered due to any reson.

Fabric course line is continuously monitor and result is shown on the screen. Number of total sensors is 8 and placed side by
Sensors
side through the width wise direction off the machine. With this result bowing and slanting of fabric is controlled.

Here monitor is present which shows fabric position graph of the course line, speed, temperature in different zone, over feed
Control unit
for left & right feeding r/r. In this position bowing con be automatically controlled via control unit.

Mahalo rollers are used to control the bowing effect from fabric. This will maintain the fabric position and when sensor
Mahalo r/r sense that bowing or slanting is appeared then this r/r will fix that. Number of total bowing r/r 2 and other 2 supporters are
present.

Overfeed r/r Over feed is given via this r/r. 0-60 % over feed can be given depending on the fabric type.

Width adjusting There are two plates at the two ends of the machine which remove curling of the fabric and also dust. If any hole is obtain
device then, sensor stops the m/c

Wheel Attach the fabric to the pin of the chain.

Brush There are 2 brushes which ensure the fabric is attached to the pin.

Pin rail is used to covey the fabric to the heating chamber. There are two chain rails, one in each side and forms endless loop
Pin rail
throughout the machine from chain entry zone to heating chamber.

Steam tray There is steam tray on the underside of feeding zone for steam application.

Here heat is applied to the fabric in six heating chamber. Heating arrangement is done via thermo oil and there are 6 heating
chambers. Blower is used to spread heated air throughout the chamber, one from upper side another from lower side of the
Heating chamber fabric. There are 2 exhaust fans in each chamber to remove residual heated air. There is oil line inlet and outlet for
continuous passing through heat exchanger to the oil boiler. Exhaust air line is present on the upper side of the heating
chamber. Heat is increased after each chamber towards the end.

Delivery Zone Fabric is delivered through some tension r/r and then passed via folder to the fabric trolley.

Table 5. Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Ultra soft m/c

Fabric path on m/c Function

Trolley Fabric trolley is placed in front of the machine. From this trolley fabric is feed to the machine.

Feeding zone Tube fabric is passed through some tension r/r. those rollers ensures proper feeding of the fabric to the machine.

Here sensor is present to detect the sewing line in the fabric. When sewing line is appeared then the sensor will slower the
Auto controller drum speed of the machine. If this is not done there is possibility to open up the sewing. Because high tension is occurred
during the passing of the fabric to the carbon brush or drum r/r thus drum speed is lowered.

Expander r/r This is used to spread the fabric and to feed the fabric in the machine. Here 2 expender rollers are present.

Fabric is then passed over the carbon r/r where 6 carbon brushes are present. Those brushes along with the drum rotate in
the opposite direction of the fabric. Fabric face side will be in contact with the carbon brush. On the top of this zone, blower
Carbon Roller unit is present to blow dust produced due to brushing of the fabric. Number of blower is 8 and blowing will vary depending on
the fabric type. In the lower side, suction unit is present to suck the dust and conveyed to the outer duct. The whole unite is
covered with glass cover to ensure dust free environment

Fabric is then passed through the bitter and brush roller to remove dust residual to the fabric. Exhaust sensor is present here
Bitter and brush r/r
to exhaust dust from the fabric.

Delivery unit Fabric is delivered to the trolley in folded form to the trolley. folding device is used to fold the fabric.
 International Journal of Textile Science 2016, 5(5): 110-118 115

Table 6. Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Brushing m/c

Fabric path on m/c Function

Fabric trolley is placed in front of the machine. From this trolley fabric is feed to the machine. Fabric is feed to the machine
Trolley
so that the back side of the fleece fabric should be in contact with the brushing unit.
Tube fabric is passed through some tension r/r. those rollers ensures proper feeding of the fabric to the machine. There are
Feeding zone
some expender rollers in the machine which ensures proper feeding of the fabric to the m/c
Brushing action is done with the help of brushing roller which consists of 24 rollers with sharp pinned surface like carding
Fabric in brushing unit r/r in carding m/c. 12 rollers are move along with the fabric which have rpm more than the fabric. Other 12 rollers are move
in the opposite direction of the fabric. Combine action of all brushing r/r will brush the loops in fleece fabric.
Blower and suction Blowing arrangement is present on the machine to remove dust produced during brushing. There is exhaust unit on the
unit lower side of the brushing unit to exhaust dust.
Fabric is conveyed to the front side of the machine with the help of some guide rollers. The fabric is delivered to the front
Guide r/r
side of the m/c
Delivery unit Fabric is delivered to the trolley in folded form to the trolley. Folding device is used to fold the fabric.

Figure 5. Difference between fabrics before Stenter and after Stenter

3. Results and Discussion Table 7. Difference obtained before stenter and after stenter

Textile finishing is a term commonly applied to different Before stenter After Stenter

process that the textile material under go after pretreatment, Water is contained in fabric Water is removed
dyeing or printing for final embellishment to enhance their Spirality is appeared Spirality is not appeared
attractiveness and sale appeal as well as for comfort. Now we Shrink is appeared Shrink is controlled
will observe different sample through different finishing GSM is not adjusted GSM ist adjusted
Fabric dia is uncontrolled Fabric dia is controlled
machine and try to test and analysis the effect.
116 Md. Mostafizur Rahman et al.: Finishing Effects on Coloured Knit
Fabrics through Implementation of Effective Parameters

sensor is also necessary for ensuring the even pressure and

Table 8. Difference obtained before stenter and after stenter
temperature. The problem with compactor machine almost
Before Compactor After Compactor same as stenter machine. Sunforising device can solve this
Crease mark appeare. Crease mark is not appeared problem. This device can easily control of low gsm fabric.
Lusture medium Lusture is improved About 10 gsm can be controlled. Dimensional stability can
Hand feel medium Low GSM can be adjusted. be also controlled.
Crease mark is appeared Crease mark is minimised. In Dewatering & Squeezer Machine Softener is used.
Haireness is high Haireness is minimised. Softener is also used for shade match. Different softeners are
used for different shade. When softener is used, after
Table 9. Difference obtained before Tumble and after Tumble sometimes dust contaminated with it. Then it does not give
Before Tumble After Tumble required effect. In these case filter can be used. This is called
Small amount of water water is removed softener recycling device. This device recycles the softener
contained Crease mark is minimized from dust. The recycled softener can be used again. It save
Crease mark appear Lusture is improved cost and improve effects. Generally problems found in
Lusture medium Hand Feel medium Tumble dryer are Fabric dry unevenly, Presence of crease
Hand Feel medium Low GSm Can be controlled mark, luster improvement is less.
Recently a new machine is available. This is the Brio
It is seen that in case of each and every finishing machine machine. It can be used instead of Tumble dryer. This
that they can not perform with their full efficiency .Every machine improves the fabric quality. It also provide with
machine has some limitation for that finishing machine those advantages: Fabric dry evenly, No crease mark,
cannot fulfill their effect. Generally finishing machines Significant luster improve, Extra care of fabric, Finishing
require temperature, pressure, steam, speed, dust free effect creates by vibration, Ideal for decorative and sensitive
environment. We found some problem on different machine fabric.
which causes faulty finishing or less efficiency. Now a days For improving fabric attractiveness must have to do
some latest devices have been invented that, this can not only modification of fabric appearance by using calendaring
improve effects and but also increase the production and machine and optical brightening agent. For hand feel must
quality of fabric. alter fabric handle by using Softening or Stiffening agent.
Now we suggest using some device to improve effect, and for controlling fabric dimension we use Sanforising,
quality and production. Some faults normally found in Compacting machine. For improving serviceability
stenter machine are in GSM control, Skewing, Bowing, according to the demand of customer like as For Protection
Spirality, Dimensional stability. If mahalo/ plevia device is of fabric (Flame proofing, Water proofing), Improved
settled with stenter this problem can be minimized. This performance (Water repellency, Raising), Easy care
device improves quality, effect and production. And use of properties (Resin finish, Crease recovery).

Figure 6. Difference between fabrics before Compactor and after Compactor

 International Journal of Textile Science 2016, 5(5): 110-118 117

Figure 7. Difference between fabrics before Tumbel and after Tumbel

Figure 8. Difference between fabrics before Brio and after Brio

118 Md. Mostafizur Rahman et al.: Finishing Effects on Coloured Knit
Fabrics through Implementation of Effective Parameters

4. Conclusions Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 2006. 102(2): p.

1787-1793.
Finishing used to improve appearance, impart
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