Humic or Fulvic Acid: What Kind are Your Plants On?

Harley Smith | July 17, 2017

Source: Kateleigh / Dreamstime.com

Takeaway: Discover the differences between humic and fulvic acids, and the best ways
to apply them to your plants.

Do you know the difference between humic and fulvic acids? If you don’t, you’re not
alone. Even the regulators at the USDA haven’t been able to agree on a definition, and
it has been causing a lot of confusion in product labeling.
Nevertheless, humic and fulvic acids are some of the best biostimulant products in
nature, improving the uptake of nutrients in both soil and hydroponics, and once you
understand the difference between the two, you will soon discover many applications for
your garden.
Humic and fulvic acids are intermediate chelators. Chela means claw, so chelates are
organic molecules that attach to mineral ions like a claw, holding them tightly enough so
they don’t get locked up in the soil, but loosely enough so they are available to the plant
on demand.

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Humic acid molecules are larger than fulvic acid molecules and make great soil
conditioners. Fulvic acids are smaller, more biologically active molecules that are faster-
acting and make excellent foliar sprays. Both improve the uptake of minerals, stimulate
plant growth, and improve the plant’s natural resistance to environmental stresses.

Humic and Fulvic Acid Combinations

Most humic acid products on the market are actually a combination of humic and fulvic
acids. The humic acid fraction consists of larger molecules with lots of positive and
negative charges on the surface of the molecules. It isn’t actually taken up through the
roots, but it lightly holds onto minerals in the root zone, making them much more
available to plants. It is especially helpful in soils with high clay content.
Clay particles and organic matter have a strong negative charge, and they tend to hold
onto positively charged minerals too tightly for root hairs to easily take them up,
meaning important plant nutrients such as potassium, calcium, magnesium and
essential trace elements can be locked up by clay particles. Humic acid forms a bridge
between the clay particles and the mineral cations.
Fulvic acid has a much smaller molecular weight, and is more biologically active. Fulvic
acid not only surrounds mineral ions, it can also help transport them through the cell
membrane and release them inside the cell.
This means fulvic acid makes a great foliar spray, allowing trace elements such as
copper, iron, manganese and zinc to be better absorbed through the leaves. Fulvic acid
also stimulates the metabolisms of plants, which makes fulvic acid treatments a great
way to quickly correct trace metal deficiencies while stimulating plant growth.

Improving Iron Uptake

In soil, humic and fulvic acids help with the uptake of iron. Iron is one of the limiting
factors in soil since it is easily oxidized and turned into rust. Once oxidized, iron
becomes unavailable to plants, but humic and fulvic acids not only keep iron soluble,
they also stimulate cell membranes to take up iron more efficiently.
Iron is a catalyst for chlorophyll production, so as plants take up more iron, they make
more of the green pigment that harvests light energy to make sugars. Some of the
sugars are used for energy to grow and reproduce, some are stored in the flowers and
fruit, and some are leached from the roots to feed plant growth-promoting microbes in
the root zone. Humic acid in the root zone also stimulates the uptake of nitrates and
other essential elements.

Adding Seaweed Extracts

Humic and fulvic acids work even better when combined with seaweed extracts.
Seaweed extracts are loaded with natural plant-growth hormones such
as auxins and cytokinins. Humic and fulvic acids hold onto the auxins in an
exchangeable form to amplify their effects on plants.
In fact, Virginia Tech’s 10-year study on organic biostimulants found that five parts of
humic acid combined with two parts of seaweed extracts worked 50% better than either
product alone. If you want more lateral root growth and more root mass, you can easily
make your own humic acid and kelp root stimulant.

Fulvic Acid Foliar Sprays are Perfect for Clones

Fulvic acid foliar sprays make a great tonic for sick clones, especially when combined
with kelp. If your cuttings are slow to root, or if the leaves start to turn yellow and fall off,
try using a fine mist of fulvic acid and seaweed at the recommended 5:2 ratio.
Rooting hormones are actually made by plants in the leaves and transported to the
roots to initiate new growth, so a foliar spray with fulvic acid and kelp is fast-acting when
absorbed by the leaves.
Research shows that plants start to respond to fulvic acids in as little as four hours, and
vigorous root growth and stress recovery is often evident in as little as two days. Before
you give up on your precious seedlings or clones, try a little fulvic acid tonic first. (Also
see: The Benefits of Adding CO2 During the Cloning Stage)

Humic and Fulvic Acids Provide Stress Protection

Humic and fulvic acids also help protect your plants against stress. In the Virginia Tech
study, it was found that the 5:2 ratio of humic acid to kelp stimulated plants to make
50% more of a powerful plant protection agent called superoxide dismutase (SOD), an
enzyme that sponges free radicals and protects the chloroplasts and membranes of the
cell.
To be effective, SOD must be turned on by either an iron/manganese complex or a
copper/zinc complex. If the enzyme is activated, a single SOD molecule can perform
more than 1,000 chemical reactions per second in the cell, so if you condition your
plants against stress with humic acids and kelp, plants will stay green longer and
recover faster.
Improved levels of SOD can help protect plants against heat stress, drought stress, UV
stress and salt stress. Just remember to condition plants against stress before the
stress happens.

Humic and Fulvic Acids for Hydroponic Use

In hydroponics, both humic and fulvic acids work well, but there are minor differences. If
you use RO (reverse osmosis) water, humic acid may be a slightly better choice. Humic
acid contains both humic and fulvic acid fractions and it has a buffering effect on pH.
RO water alone has practically no buffer for pH. When using RO water, the pH can
spike upwards during rapid vegetative growth, or crash during heavy fruiting and
flowering—sometimes overnight. But humic and fulvic acids help buffer pH.
In nature, humic and fulvic acids raise the pH of acidic soils and lower the pH of alkaline
soils, neutralizing both conditions, while having a moderating effect on your plants.
Humic acid also adds more than 62 beneficial trace elements to the water. Since RO
water is stripped of nearly all of its minerals, humic and fulvic acids make a great water
treatment for hydroponics.
If you use hard water, shift the balance towards fulvic acid. Hard water is usually high in
calcium and magnesium ions. Since fulvic acid molecules are smaller than humic
fractions, they are better at surrounding the calcium ions to help keep them soluble and
available to plants.
Fulvic acid is also more acidic than most humic acid products. Since hard water is
generally higher in pH, fulvic acid may be a better choice when using well water in
hydroponics. (See: The Top 4 Reasons Your pH is Out of Whack)

What’s On the Shelf?

It’s not always easy to determine which products on the store shelf contain humic or
fulvic acid. That’s because humic and fulvic acids are complex molecules, and
regulators have a hard time defining exactly what they are.
In most states, manufacturers aren’t even allowed to put the words fulvic acid on the
labels. Ultimately, the Association of American Plant Food Control Officials (AAPFCO)is
the group that decides on formal definitions and testing procedures for humic and fulvic
acids.
Afterwards, the departments of agriculture in various states set labeling standards. In
the meantime, look for the words humic acid on the label and check out what color the
product is.
Products rich in humic acids are usually dark brown to black, and fulvic acids are
usually yellow, orange, or amber.
Experiment with humic or fulvic acids to make your own custom tonics and before long,
you will find the perfect recipes to grow healthier, faster-growing, more stress-resistant
plants.
Written by Harley Smith

Harley Smith is the director of research for NPK Industries. A veteran in the hydroponics
industry, Harley has more than 18 years of consulting and educating experience. He is
regarded as an expert on plant nutrition and organic bio-stimulants, performing research
and new product development in the US and Europe. Full Bio
 Why Your Plants Need More Silica
Helene Isbell | July 21, 2017

Source: Vinicius Bacarin / Dreamstime.com

Takeaway: Even though it isn’t classified as an essential plant nutrient, silica is an

important player in the growroom. In fact, you could say silica is the jack of all trades in
the plant kingdom.

Silica plays an important role in just about everything.

 It is one of the main components of the Earth’s crust

 It makes up the sandy beaches that border the oceans of the planet
 It lies in the veins of quartz crystal that course through granite boulders
 It is used to make the glass products that we use in our everyday lives on a regular
basis

Silica, often renowned for its rigid properties, is also an important component of the
plant kingdom, a jack of all trades in the horticulture hemisphere.

What is Silica?
Silica is the common term for the compound silicon dioxide. It is formed when silicon
comes into contact with oxygen.

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Silica is abundant in many soils and is a major component of plant tissue, sometimes in
even higher concentrations than nitrogen and potassium – two out of the three primary
macronutrients.
Although vital to plant health, silica is not classified as one of the essential nutrients for
plants in general, which can lead some growers to believe it is not necessary to add to a
normal feeding regimen.

What Benefits Does Silica Provide for Plants?

The list of benefits that silica provides to plant health is lengthy. Any grower who is
serious about growing strong beastly plants should consider adding silica to their normal
fertilization schedule. Some of the most important benefits are:
Stronger cell walls
Silica can be compared to the likes of a liquid bamboo, virtually fortifying cells from the
inside out. Cells are the building blocks of the plant's framework. Strengthening the cell
walls helps the plant build strong hearty branches and stems that are reinforced enough
to support the weight of the fruit that the plant will eventually produce.
Stronger cells mean bigger stems
Thicker cell walls resulting from silica use create bigger stalks and stems that can
uptake and transport more water, nutrients, and plant secretions throughout the plant
body, facilitating faster growth rates and bigger plants.
Increased resistance to environmental stress
Since plants lack the immune system that animals rely on to stay healthy, silica helps
perform many of the same functions and can be thought of as a super vitamin and an
immune support for plants. It contributes to areas such as:

 Climate: The addition of silica helps plants withstand extreme temperatures, whether
hot or cold. This is especially helpful for outdoor growers that experience hot midday
peaks or low temperatures at night.
 Drought: Silica forms a protective coating on an intracellular level that decreases the
amount of water loss through transpiration, making plants less likely to suffer as
dramatically during drought conditions. It also enables them to continue functioning
during high-temperature or low-moisture conditions and reduces the amount of shock
they experience in such extreme cases.

Increased resistance to pathogens

When a plant is fed a soluble form of silica, the plant accumulates the silica around the
infected site forming selectively fortified areas that can fend off fungal infections such as
rust, pythium and powdery mildew.
As a resistance measure, the plant uses the silica to build up an additional mineral
barrier, essentially lining the cells, making it more difficult for diseases and plant
pathogens to make their way inside the plant.
Increased resistance to pests
Silica accumulates in the epidermal cell walls of leaves, making it harder for biting and
sucking bugs to damage the plant. Deposits of silicic acid within the cells act as an
additional barrier to sap sucking insects. Foliar feeding is the best way to ensure the
silica gets directly absorbed into the leaves where it can be immediately used to combat
pests.
Enhanced metabolic functions
Plants grown with the use of soluble silica are shown to have higher concentrations of
chlorophyll in their leaf tissue compared to plants grown without it. It also enables them
to make more efficient use of carbon dioxide (CO2), resulting in lush healthy green
foliage with excellent leaf structure and reduced amount of leaf wilt.

When Should Silica be used in the Garden?

Studies show that silica should be used throughout the entire life cycle of the plant, from
the seedling or clone stage up until harvest. In order to produce optimal results, silica
needs to be continually made available to the plant via the nutrient solution.
Once a plant has absorbed the available silica into its cellular structure, it can no longer
be redistributed to other parts of the plant.
Plants grown in soil are more likely to uptake trace amounts of silica that may be
present in the soil, whereas plants grown hydroponically have no direct source of silica
unless it is added as a supplement to the nutrient regimen.
Plants grown hydroponically without silica will most likely be sub par compared to those
grown with it.
Cuttings and seedlings that have been fed silica tend to show less shock during root
formation and transplanting. Introducing silica early on in the plant’s life is also said to
reduce the chances of leaf curl.
Cut flowers also benefit from silica, as it has been known to extend flower shelf life.
Have you ever added a powder sachet into the vase of water when you buy a bouquet
of flowers? That is a nutrient mixture combined with silica!

How Should Silica be Applied to Plants?

It’s a good idea to follow the dosage rates of the particular product being used, but as a
good rule of thumb, when plants are very young, introduce silica at about 20 to 30% of
the general feeding rate and gradually increase the application as the plants grow in
size and enter the bloom phase.
Most silica products on the market can be applied as a root feed or as a foliar spray.
Plants can absorb much more through foliar feeding than just absorption through
the root zone.
Silica is also known to prevent powdery mildew when used as a foliar spray. If using
silica as both a foliar and a root feed, be careful not to overdose the plants. Follow the
feeding schedule according to the brand carefully before mixing the solution.
Silica is alkaline by nature and therefore will naturally raise the pH level of your nutrient
solution. It should be added after the other nutrients have been thoroughly mixed into
the water.
It is a good idea to dilute the silica in about one gallon of water before adding it to the
reservoir to avoid nutrient lockout that may occur when it comes into direct contact with
other elements in the solution.
In many cases, silica may raise the pH level of the solution enough that the additional
use of pH up products will not be necessary.

What Types of Silica are the Best for the Garden?

Since there are so many brands of silica in the horticulture industry, it may be tough to
decide which one to use. It is wise to choose one with a high concentration of silicon
dioxide so that a little bit goes a lot further.
There are brands that boast fancy labels and high-sticker prices but then only provide
products that contain 3% or less concentration of silica. Look for brands that have at
least 7 to 8% silicon dioxide.
Liquid silica that is clear will be more soluble in the reservoir than those types that have
a milky, chalky consistency. Remember to choose products that are free of dyes or
colorants.
In the world of hydroponics and gardening in general, the sheer amount of products on
the market can be daunting. There are many secret recipes, mysterious formulas,
cryptic ingredients, and vague labeling to contend with.
Once in a while it’s nice to fall back on a basic product that is easy to understand, is
even easier to use and produces great results.
When one product has a seemingly endless list of positive attributes, it’s a no-brainer
that it should be put to use by growers that are serious about producing results. For
robust crops and impressively healthy harvests, try silica as a super supplement in your
next grow!
Written by Helene Isbell

Helene Isbell has a passion for plants. She has also been a dynamic player in the
hydroponics industry for the past decade. She has incorporated her love of horticulture
with hands-on experience, arts and culture, integrated marketing and education. She is
the Southern California rep for High Caliper Growing/Smart Pots. Full Bio
 A Golden Opportunity: Fulvic Acid
Helene Isbell | September 1, 2012

Source: Tina Rencelj/Dreamstime.com

Takeaway: Fulvic acid is one of the most well-balanced and vital minerals on Earth.
Dubbed the miracle molecule due to the sheer number of functions it performs, fulvic
acid is a truly unparalleled compound. The plant and animal kingdoms rely on its
benefits to support all life on the planet.

Originating from the word fulvus (Latin for yellow), fulvic acid is named for its natural
golden honey color. Fulvic acid is a natural acidic organic polymer. This means that it is
not a single molecule, but rather a combination of many different molecules with similar
chemical properties.
Fulvic acids, along with humic acids, are compounds found in humus— organic material
that was metabolized by fungi and microorganisms over millions of years—and are
some of the most biologically rich substances available. Thanks to its molecular
structure, fulvic acid has specific advantages over other humic substances.
In order to isolate fulvic acid, it must undergo an additional extraction process using
either acid or cold purified water to separate it from humic acid. (For best results in the
garden, use only high-grade, non-chemical, cold-water extracted fulvic acid.)

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Humic substances, such as fulvic and humic acid, commonly used in hydroponic and
horticultural applications are sourced from areas rich with deposits known as humates.
These humates include materials like peat moss, lignite, Leonardite and humic shale,
and they are found in areas rich with mineraloid deposits, such as aquatic ecosystems,
bogs, marshes and dry lakebeds.
The quality of the products is directly related to the source of the humates from which
they were derived. Fulvic acids extracted from Leonardite prove to be the best quality
products on the market due to their high percentage of fulvic content.
While fulvic acid is often recognized as an ingredient in several horticultural products,
many people might not realize what specific features and benefits this powerful
supplement has to offer. The simple incorporation of fulvic acid into an existing nutrient
schedule promotes a noticeable difference in the health, vitality and overall productivity
of indoor and outdoor gardens.
One of the most important features that fulvic acid offers the horticulture industry is its
natural ability to chelate nutrients. The word chelate is derived from the Greek
word chele, which literally means claw. Fulvic acid acts like a claw to bond with macro-
and micronutrients that might otherwise be inaccessible to the plant.
Without the help of the fulvic acid, many of the larger molecules that are unable to
permeate cell walls would not make it into the plant and get washed away in runoff
water. However, once minerals fuse with the fulvic acid, they become bioactive and
chemically available to the plant where they are needed most.
This is because fulvic acid—due to its low molecular weight—can easily penetrate the
cell walls of plant tissue, allowing the larger nutrient molecules to piggyback their way
into the plant. Once the chelated minerals are inside the plant, the fulvic acid acts as a
delivery system to transport the nutrients to the parts of the plant where they will serve
the best functions.
The increased uptake of nutrients with the help of fulvic acid maximizes the efficiency of
the nutrients in any synthetic or organic fertilizer (amazingly, one fulvic acid molecule
has the capacity to transport dozens upon dozen of minerals into the cells of a plant).
It naturally increases the plant’s metabolism and increases enzymatic activity, making
food more available to satiate the plant’s growing appetite. Furthermore, it helps the
plant retain and fully utilize nutrients. This heightened efficiency results in fewer
nutrients needed over time, which saves money for gardeners!
Fulvic acid can be used indoor or outdoor in soil or hydroponic systems, and is
completely safe for organic gardeners. It can be added to a nutrient solution and
watered in as a root drench, or it can be applied as a foliar feed.
Fulvic acid also contains over 70 nourishing trace minerals and when mixed with water,
these vital trace elements and minerals become readily available to the plant. When
used as a root drench in soil gardens, fulvic acid helps improve soil structure by
delivering macro- and micronutrients directly to the root zone, encouraging healthy
growth.
If used as a foliar spray, fulvic acid will increase the amount of internodes or bud sites
on a flowering plant. It also promotes sturdy stalks and stems while correcting minor
deficiencies that might be present within the plant.
Another benefit of fulvic acid is that it increases drought tolerance in plants. By
increasing the permeability of the cell walls in plant matter, fulvic acid allows for plants
to intake more water. With the heightened capacity to retain water, plants stay
quenched for longer periods of time. This drought tolerance and water retention aid in
monetary, as well as resource, savings. Also, hydrated plants are happy plants.
As if that is not enough, the list of functions that fulvic acid performs goes on. It acts as
a highly effective natural immunity booster for plants. By infusing plants with an
abundance of minerals and trace elements, fulvic acid helps to boost their resistance to
a host of environmental problems, such as disease, mold, fungi and insect infestation.
Fulvic acid also works as a natural detoxifier and protective agent. It removes toxicity
from poisonous herbicides and pesticides from the plant’s system. It acts as a natural
antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals by scavenging for unpaired positive or negative
electrons and supplying them with an opposite charge.
Fulvic acid is also an excellent pH buffer that will slightly lower pH, help to stabilize
drastic fluctuations and retain a steady pH balance. This is important because plants
rely on a specific pH range to make use of vital nutrients.
If the pH solution of a nutrient mix is too low, or acidic, certain macro- and
micronutrients are rendered useless to a plant and it might become deficient in those
minerals. If the pH level of the feed solution is too high, or alkaline, the mixture could
potentially burn plants. An ideal pH range for most plants lies within the range of 5.5 to
6.5.
Simple, yet complex, the myriad functions of fulvic acid is astounding. In prehistoric
times on Earth, the planet was rich with humic substances and fulvic acid was abundant
in the natural environment.
Dinosaurs roamed the land and lush verdant plants grew to gargantuan sizes.
Environmental conditions were prime for oversized life forms. Through evolution, these
legendary giant species of plants and animals have gone extinct, but they left their
biologically rich remains locked within geological burial grounds.
Over the millennia, they have become the raw materials of the fulvic acid we rely on and
utilize in our modern gardens. Although plants no longer grow to the mammoth
proportions that they reached 65 million years ago, growers, gardeners and green
thumbs worldwide can mimic what Mother Nature perfected in ancient times.
By supplementing a normal nutrient regimen with fulvic acid, farmers can increase the
fertility of their crops and encourage bountiful harvests that yield fruits and veggies rich
with nutritional sustenance. For yields that are worth their weight in gold, try fulvic
acid—a golden opportunity for your garden.
Written by Helene Isbell
 Kelp: The Wonder Amendment
Chris Bond | December 1, 2014
Source: jeff waibel/Dreamstime.com

Takeaway: With a whole host of benefits, from improving seed germination and
increasing stem strength, to helping plants deal with drought, high temperatures and
frost, kelp is an amazing additive to include in your garden.

Kelp, a type of seaweed, contains dissolved ocean minerals and is available most
commonly in powder form, a granular form known as kelp meal, or in liquid form. Adding
kelp to your garden soil is a great way to boost micronutrient levels organically. Fish or
other marine extracts are often mixed with kelp to add macronutrients to the mixture.
Kelp is especially beneficial for seedlings and transplants.
Large-growing and usually brown, kelp has no roots. It anchors itself to the ocean floor
by a part known as a holdfast. Though it seems to act like a root system, a holdfast is
different than a root, as it does not absorb nutrients like roots do. The foliage of kelp are
called blades and the stems are known as stipes.
The stipe is a flaccid structure and cannot stand on its own. It does so with the help of
an organ unique to kelp—an air bladder. The air bladder helps keep the foliage and
stems afloat so the kelp can grow towards the sunlight. From there, the plant can
photosynthesize and make for itself all of the wonderful nutrients that will help keep your
plants healthy and productive. Some of the larger species of kelp, known not
surprisingly as giant kelp, can reach heights of up to 150 ft. and grow 1-2 ft. per day.

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The Wonder Amendment

Kelp contains more than 60 trace elements used by plants, including iron, copper, zinc,
molybdenum, boron, manganese, cobalt and alginic acid, to name a few. It aids in the
development of extensive root systems and offers natural resistance to harmful
nematodes, diseases and pests. It improves seed germination, increases stem strength
and helps plants deal with drought, high temperatures and frost. Kelp also increases the
nutritional value of fruits and vegetables, and helps soil by improving its structure,
aeration and moisture retention. It normalizes pH levels and stimulates soil bacteria.
Liquid Kelp
Liquid kelp is usually highest in nutrients and most available for immediate use by plants
compared with the powder or meal form. It can be cold-processed, or enzymatically
digested. The digested form is a higher-quality formulation, so expect to pay a bit more.
Its use might be best reserved for high-value crops. The digested form also contains
more natural growth hormones (more than 60) than either of the other two extracted
forms. The cold-pressed form will have less nutrients, but still offer more than powder or
meal. Some of the growth hormones in liquid kelp include cytokinins to aid in the
division of cells; auxins to promote root and cellular development; indoles to aid in root
and bud development; and gibberellins to promote stem and seed development. This
form needs to be reapplied more often, as the nutrients will be used within one month of
application. Mix liquid kelp at a rate of 1-2 tbsp. per gallon of water.
Kelp Meal
In meal form, kelp can be incorporated into garden soil at a rate of 1 lb. per 100 sq. ft.
Depending on weather and microbial activity in the soil, one application will begin to
release nutrients in about four months. Of all kelp products, meal usually contains the
least amount of kelp, as there may be other organic materials mixed in with it.
Kelp Powder
As a powder, kelp can be mixed with water and applied as a foliar feed, or put into a
fertilizer injector and delivered by irrigation water to plants at a rate of ¼-½ tsp. per
gallon. The benefit of powder applications is that nutrients are immediately available to
plants and remain available for several months afterwards.

Making Your Own Kelp Amendments

If you happen to live close to the ocean, you may be able to collect and process your
own kelp amendments, but before doing so, consult local laws around harvesting kelp
from public lands. Collect only fresh-looking kelp—after it washes ashore, it quickly
begins to decompose and the beneficial elements start to diminish. If it has been sitting
on the shore for a while, it may also have become home to all sorts of insects you don’t
want to bring into your car, home or garden.
After you have collected a sufficient amount, decide if you want to create a liquid or dry
amendment or if you want to add the kelp directly to your garden or compost pile. Either
way, rinse the kelp off first as it likely contains sand from the beach and possibly salt
from the ocean. The rinsed material can then be added to the compost pile.
To use the kelp while it’s fresh, incorporate it into either the compost pile or garden with
a spade or digging fork. Depending on your environment, you may wish to dry it first, as
freshly collected seaweed may attract animals to your garden. For a dry amendment,
hang the kelp somewhere it will receive the full benefits of the sun and breeze. Once it
has thoroughly dried, pulverize it into small flakes and spread it across the soil or
around the base of plants. The pulverized kelp can also be added to your compost pile if
you are not able to apply it directly to the soil.
For a liquid amendment, you can make a kelp tea by soaking the freshly collected
seaweed in a bucket of fresh water. Stir it up every few days. It can steep for several
weeks to several months depending on environmental factors. Make sure to do this in a
well-ventilated area, preferably outside—as the nitrogen breaks down, it will have a
pungent aroma. It is ready to be used when it no longer has an ammonia-like smell to it.
The tea will be concentrated and water should be added at a rate of three parts water to
one part kelp tea.
The solids that remain in your “teapot” can be reused. You can make a second batch of
tea with the remaining solids, or boost the nutrient level by adding some fresh kelp to it
as well. The second batch will not be as nutrient-dense as the first, but will still contain
appreciable amounts of micronutrients and growth hormones. A ration of one part tea to
one part water should suffice. After the second brew, the remaining solids can be
incorporated into your compost pile. Kelp tea can be used as a soil drench or a foliar
feed. To use it as a soil drench, aerate the soil you wish to amend with a digging fork
before applying the tea. This will add oxygen to the soil, adding to the aerobic
processes, and allow your tea to cover a greater surface area of soil.
When using kelp tea as a foliar feed, consider adding an organic surfactant to help it
stick to the foliage. You can use liquid molasses, dry molasses, liquid agave, fish oil or
yucca extract. When applying tea with a pump sprayer, clean the sprayer out
immediately after applying so any sugars or solids do not clog the hose or sprayer
attachment for future applications. Adding sugars to your teas while they are steeping
will add carbon to the mix and speed up the decomposition process as well as reduce
the strong aroma of the nitrogen.

Buying Kelp Amendments

For gardeners unable to make their own kelp amendments, fear not. Kelp is not a
difficult amendment to locate. There are currently more than 45 registered organic kelp
products on the market in the United States and an untold number of as-yet uncertified
sources. You can also make your own amendments by purchasing kelp in a grocery
store. Though it is not a common item in most grocery chains, you can find it in Asian
markets and specialty stores.
On a final note, as with any chemical, organic or not, make sure you wear the proper
personal protective equipment while applying any amendment, liquid or dry, and when
using a commercially prepared formulation, adhere strictly to the application instructions
on the label. When it comes to pesticides and fertilizers, organic or not, the label is the
law!
Written by Chris Bond

Chris Bond is the manager of the McKay Farm and Research Station at Unity College in
Maine. His research interests are with sustainable agriculture, biological pest control as
well as alternative growing methods. He is a certified permaculture designer and
certified nursery technician in Ohio and a certified nursery professional in New York,
where he got his start in growing.
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