EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

CUBA

BEACHES ARCHITECTURE
CARNIVAL NIGHTLIFE
SCUBA DIVING MUSIC
NATURE RESERVES MUSEUMS pl YO
M
A
a
az R

RESTAURANTS HOTELS RUM

THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT
OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

CUBA
E YE WITNESS TRAVEL

CUBA
 CONTENTS
HOW TO USE THIS
GUIDE 6

PRODUCED BY Fabio Ratti Editoria Srl, Milan, Italy

PROJECT EDITOR Giorgia Conversi
ART EDITOR Paolo Gonzato
EDITORS Carla Beltrami, Barbara Cacciani,
Fernanda Incoronato, Alessandra Lombardi
MAIN CONTRIBUTOR
Irina Bajini
OTHER CONTRIBUTORS
Alejandro Alonso, Christopher Baker, Miguel A Castro Machado, Andrea G
Molinari, Matt Norman, Marco Oliva, Francesca Piana
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Heidi Grassley, Lucio Rossi
CARTOGRAPHERS
Laura Belletti, Oriana Bianchetti, Roberto Capra
ILLUSTRATORS
Marta Fincato, Modi Artistici
ENGLISH TRANSLATION
Richard Pierce
Dorling Kindersley Limited
EDITOR Fiona Wild
CONSULTANT Emily Hatchwell dolo de Tabaco, Museo
DTP DESIGNERS Jason Little, Conrad van Dyk
PRODUCTION Joanna Bull Montan, Havana (see p101)
Reproduced in Singapore by Colourscan
Printed and bound in South China
First American Edition 2002 INTRODUCING
09 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 CUBA
Published in the United States by DK Publishing,
375 Hudson Street, New York 10014
Reprinted with revisions 2004, 2007, 2009 DISCOVERING CUBA 10
Copyright 2002, 2009 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT
RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN PUTTING CUBA
OR INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED, IN ANY FORM, OR BY
ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR
ON THE MAP 12
OTHERWISE), WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT
OWNER AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK.
A CATALOG RECORD FOR THIS BOOK IS AVAILABLE
A PORTRAIT OF
FROM THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. CUBA 14
ISSN 1542-1554
ISBN 978 0 75666 154 0
Front cover main image: Classic American car driving CUBA THROUGH
along the Prado in Havana THE YEAR 34

 









 





 

THE HISTORY





 
 
OF CUBA 38



 






 




 







 









 


 










  


 

The information in every

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date
as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such
as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging
arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The
publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third
party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this
book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the
views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to:
The Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides,
Primary school children in
Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL.
Santiago de Cuba
A house in Trinidad with characteristic iron grilles; in the insert, the bust of Hatuey at Baracoa
 ENTERTAINMENT 288

SPORTS AND OUTDOOR

ACTIVITIES 292

Guava paste and cheese

The beach at Guardalavaca, one of the best-known resorts in Cuba

SURVIVAL GUIDE
HAVANA CUBA REGION PRACTICAL
BY REGION INFORMATION 298
HAVANA
AT A GLANCE 56 CUBA AT A GLANCE 130 TRAVEL
INFORMATION 308
WESTERN CUBA 132
GENERAL INDEX 316
CENTRAL CUBA PHRASE BOOK 335
WEST 154

CENTRAL CUBA
EAST 178

EASTERN CUBA 208

TRAVELLERS
NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY 248
Restored buildings around Plaza
Vieja, Havana Dancing at the Casa de la
WHERE TO EAT 270 Tradicin in Santiago de Cuba

HABANA
VIEJA 60 SHOPS AND MARKETS
284
CENTRO HABANA
AND PRADO 78

VEDADO AND
PLAZA 96

FURTHER AFIELD 106

HAVANA STREET
FINDER 118

ENTERTAINMENT IN
HAVANA 124 Museo de la
Revolucin (see pp889)
6 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

T his guide will help you to get the
most out of your visit to Cuba by
providing detailed information
and expert recommendations. Intro-
ducing Cuba maps the island and sets
most important sights, with maps,
floor plans, photographs and detailed
illustrations. Hotels and restaurants,
together with night spots and shops,
are described in Travellers Needs,
it in its historic, artistic, cultural and while the Survival Guide offers tips
geographical context. Havana and the on everything from transport to
four regional sections describe the phones and local currency.

HAVANA    
   
 
    

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photographs with captions.

INTRODUCING
CUBA

DISCOVERING CUBA 1011

PUTTING CUBA ON THE MAP 1213
A PORTRAIT OF CUBA 1433
CUBA THROUGH THE YEAR 3437
THE HISTORY OF CUBA 3853
10 I N T R O D U C I N G C U B A

DISCOVERING CUBA
C uba is a fascinating island
nation. Its lively capital
city, Havana, is rich
in attractions and steeped
in atmosphere. Western
on the Caribbean shores in the
West, and a string of beach-
rimmed isles along the
Atlantic seaboard in the
East. The rugged mountain
Cuba has a dramatic terrain of Eastern Cuba is
mountain chain, with lush combined with several
forests and fertile valleys planted Classic car in ancient cities endowed with a
Havana
with fields of tobacco. Charming strong African heritage. These
Colonial cities are plentiful in Central pages give a brief overiew of the
Cuba, with important wetland habitats distinctive highlights of each region.
intriguing Museo de la nostalgia for past times,
Revolucin (see pp889) and mountainous Western Cuba
the well-stocked Museo de invites leisurely exploration.
Bellas Artes (see pp925). A short distance west of
Taxis are useful for explor- Havana, the Sierra del
ing Vedado (see pp96105) Rosario (see p1367) forms a
and Miramar (see pp1089), magnificent setting for
sprawling regions full of Cubas prime ecotourism
Beaux Arts, Art Nouveau and resort Las Terrazas while
Modernist buildings. The westward the Sierra de
Hotel Nacional (see p98) is a rganos are studded with
must-see, as is the Plaza de mogotes fantastic limestone
la Revolucin (see p102). formations centered on the
On the outskirts of the city, Valle de Viales (see pp142
the beaches of Playas del 5). Also a centre of tobacco
Este (see p113) and the Finca production, this valley offers
La Viga (see p115) Ernest the most quintessential of
Hemingways Cuban home Cuban landscapes.
Exuberant carnival scene in the are well worth a visit, as is Mara la Gorda (see p146),
streets of Havana the Parque Histrico-Militar at the western tip of Cuba,
Morro Cabaa in the Castillo is a prime dive site. Off the
del Morro (see p110). coast are the isles of the
HAVANA Archipilago de los Canarreos,
shimmering with gorgeous
Fascinating museums WESTERN CUBA beaches. Here, the best
Habana Vieja diving in all Cuba awaits off
Captivating nightlife Superlative scenery the southwest tip of the Isla
Evocative fortress Valle de Viales de la Juventud (see
Lush tobacco fields pp14851), while Cayo
A vibrant, once cosmopolitan Islands and beaches Largo (see pp1523) draws
capital city teeming with his- visitors with its stunning
toric buildings and irresistible With spectacular landscapes, sands and turquoise waters
allure, Havana boasts dozens tobacco fields and charming the only place in Cuba to
of sights of interest, a vibrant towns that evoke a sense of allow nude sunbathing.
nightlife and carnivals. Many
sights are concentrated in
Habana Vieja (see pp6077),
the compact old city centred
around cobbled plazas and
characterized by Hispanic-
Andalusian architecture. The
Plaza de la Catedral is sur-
rounded by 18th-century
aristocratic buildings and the
elegant cathedral, while the
Plaza de Armas has a strong
Colonial feel.
Centro Habana (see pp78
95) includes the area around
the Parque Central with the The fertile Valle de Viales with limestone mogotes in the background

Mural on the corner of Calle Heredia and Calle Clarn, Santiago de Cuba
 D I S C O V E R I N G C U B A 11

(p196), and Las Tunas (p207)

and a fourth Camagey
(pp200203), with restored
colonial plazas that are
redolent of yesteryear.

EASTERN CUBA

Carnival in Santiago de Cuba

Baslica del Cobre
White sands of Guardalavaca
Pre-Columbian sites

Birthplace of both the inde-

pendence and revolutionary
The enchancting casco viejo (historic core) of Trinidad movements, Oriente (as this
region is known) abounds in
visitors but has an evocative monuments and museums.
CENTRAL CUBA WEST museum on the CIA-spon- Many are in Santiago de
sored invasion. Santa Clara Cuba (see pp22231), the
Parque Nacional Zapata (see pp1746) claims another most African of Cuban cities,
Revolutionary museums fascinating revolutionary with inspiring architecture
Famous resort of Varadero museum,while close by, the and a vivacious spirit, best
Fireworks battles in Remedios colonial town of Remedios experienced during Julys
(see p177) is best visited at exciting Carnival.
With the countrys top beach Christmas for its parranda Visitors are also drawn to
resort and largest national (fireworks battle). With a Cubas main pilgrimage site
park, plus important museums strong French heritage, Baslica del Cobre (see p221)
honoring revolutionary Cienfuegos (see pp16871) with its statue of the black
heroes, this region is Cuba features unique architecture. Madonna and to Parque
at its most varied. With a Baconao (see pp2347), a
glorious beach, Varadero (see UNESCO biosphere reserve
pp1623) makes a fine base CENTRAL CUBA EAST that also contains an unusual
range of attractions, from
Gorgeous beaches dolphin shows to an antique
Trinidads historic centre car museum. Cubas best
Flamingoes at Cayo Coco pre-Columbian sites are
Lush Sierra Escambray located here too, near the
resort of Guardalavaca (see
Fringed to the north and south p215) with its crescent-
by offshore isles, this region shaped beach and in Baracoa
claims the most attractive (see pp2423), the countrys
beaches in Cuba. Coral reefs oldest city which enjoys a
and walls edge the isles, pro- spectacularly lush setting.
viding tantalizing opportuni- The Sierra Maestra (see
ties for diving and top-notch p220), the setting for Castros
sportfishing. Cayo Coco (see guerrilla headquarters, is a
pp1989) is the most devel- beautiful national park.
Pink flamingos at the Parque oped isle, with a wide choice
Nacional Zapata of luxury all-inclusive hotels.
The beautifully preserved
for watersports enthusiasts town of Trinidad (see pp182
and for exploring the towns 90) is the loveliest of Cubas
of Matanzas (see pp1589) Colonial cities, its casco viejo
and Crdenas (see p161). (historic core) full of cobbled
Nature lovers are enticed streets. The immediate area is
to the Pennsula de Zapata replete with attractions, from
(see pp1647), part of which steam-train rides to hiking
has been designated a nation- and birding in the Sierra del
al park, good for spotting Escambray (see p173, 191).
crocodiles and colourful birds, The main highway, the
and for sportfishing for bone- Carretera Central, links three
fish in shallows. Playa Girn provincial capitals of modest
(setting for the 1961 Bay of appeal Sancti Spritus (see The glorious white sand beach of
Pigs battle) is off-limits to pp1945), Ciego de vila Guardalavaca a major resort
 12 I N T R O D U C I N G C U B A

Putting Cuba on the Map 5.)4%$

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3 4 !4%3/&
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Greater Antilles, situated just south of the Tropic of Cancer. It
lies only 180 km (112 miles) from Florida and 210 km (130
miles) from Mexico, while Haiti and Jamaica are slightly less
than 80 km (50 miles) and 140 km (87 miles) away,
respectively. Cuba is not a single island, but a varied
archipelago with a total surface area of 110,922 sq km
(42,815 sq miles). Lying on an east-west axis, the main island, the
elongated Isla Grande, is about 1,250 km (776 miles) long, and 100
km (62 miles) wide on average. Around it are five archipelagoes:
Colorados, Sabana, Camagey, Canarreos and Jardines de la Reina,
consisting of thousands of cayos (keys and small islands). The
largest minor island is Isla de la Juventud. Cuba has about 11
million inhabitants, 2,500,000 of whom live in Havana, the capital. + B S E
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 I N T R O D U C I N G C U B A 15

A PORTRAIT OF CUBA

I
mages of Cuba show hot sun and fields of sugar cane, tall palm
trees and deep, clear blue sea. Cuba is indeed all these things, but
it is also a country with a deep-rooted, complex culture in which
old traditions and new intellectual developments co-exist. It is a young
and vital island, a place of music and colour, which despite severe
economic difficulties in recent years has held on to its unique identity.
Cubas identity owes a great conquering Spanish, with some
deal to the fact that it is influence from the sailors
surrounded by sea as well and travellers who had
as to its geographical stopped in Cuba. However,
position. It is sometimes by surreptitious means, the
called the key to the gulf African slaves managed to
because of its strategic preserve their songs, musical
location between North and The crest of Cuba, instruments and dances,
key of the gulf
South America at the entrance introduced new spices and
to the Gulf of Mexico, and the island tastes to the local cuisine, and
has been a crossroads since the continued to worship their Yoruba
beginning of the Colonial period. As gods (see pp223).
a result, the islands early population The result of this cross-fertilization
consisted of European settlers, a few is a surprising ethnic mosaic of
native Indians who had survived whites, blacks, people of mixed race
struggles against the invaders, and Asians (a Chinese community
imported diseases and hard labour, grew in Havana in the 19th century).
and thousands of black slaves, The same mosaic characterizes
brought over from Africa. Up to the Cuban culture too: the bringing
abolition of slavery in 1886, the together of vastly different traditions
dominant culture was that of the has produced a unique blend.

Chatting outside the front door, a typically Cuban habit

Students outside their school, illustrating the diverse ethnic mix of the Cuban population
16 I N T R O D U C I N G C U B A

has a Casa de la Trova, now a Cuban

institution, where local bands play and
young and old alike go to dance.
Indeed, there is no single designated
venue for dancing in Cuba, and any
excuse is good enough to improvise a
party. One of the official celebrations
is the debut in society of 15-year-old
girls, who are dressed up like brides
for the occasion. Besides this lively,
fun-loving side, Cubans have an
equally strong domestic one, and love
Playing dominoes, a national past time to spend time at home with the family,
in front of the television or chatting
THE LIFESTYLE from the ever-present rocking chairs.
In general, Cubans are outgoing,
talkative and sociable. The doors of THE POLITICAL SYSTEM
their houses are always open, a glass The present Constitution of the
of rum or a cup of coffee is Republic of Cuba, approved by 97.7
there for anyone who per cent of voters (in Cuba people
passes by to say hello can vote at the age of 16),
and chat. There is no was promulgated in 1976.
clear-cut boundary In 1992 various amend-
between home and the ments were introduced,
street: people talk to including guarantees for
one another from their foreign investments, some
balconies, or from the flexibility in foreign trade,
steps or pavement in A trio of musicians playing more religious freedom,
front of their house. in the street and the introduction of
The whole day can be spent outside, direct election by universal suffrage of
thanks to the perennial tropical deputies to the National Assembly. The
summer. People spend a lot of time Constitution states that Cuba is a
outdoors, chatting, playing dominoes, socialist republic whose supreme
flirting, cycling around
the streets buzzing with
c o l o u r, v o i c e s a n d
sounds, or simply sitting.
Music is everywhere and
is the soul of the island.
Melodic thanks to the
Spanish heritage, and
dynamic due to the hyp-
notizing rhythm of Afro-
Cuban percussion,
religious and passionate
at the same time, music
is a vital part of daily
life, like dance. Even the
smallest Cuban town A 15-year-old girl preparing for her debut in society
 A P O R T R A I T O F C U B A 17

Fidel Castro, the Lder Mximo, during a rally in Plaza de la Revolucin

governmental body is the National which most of the citizens belong.

Assembly of Peoples Power (the These groups are for young people
equivalent of Parliament), elected by (UJC), children (UPCJM), women
universal suffrage every five years. The (FMC), students (FEEM and FEU),
Assembly in turn elects the State trade unions (CTC), and small private
Council, the Council of Ministers, and farmers (ANAP). The largest of these
the president of the State Council, who groups consists of the Committees for
is the head of state and of the govern- the Defence of the Revolution (CDR),
ment, as well as the founded in 1960 to
judges of the Supreme watch over the country
Court. There are also the and tackle social issues.
Provincial and Municipal In spite of the
Assemblies of the severity of the Castro
Peoples Power (Poder Billboard with political propaganda government, national
Popular), through which along the Carretera Central pride is quite strong,
the population expresses its wishes. partly thanks to the continued
Since the only political party is the embargo imposed by the US. Fidel
Cuban Communist Party, which by law Castro (although very ill at present) is
cannot propose candidates, the citizens still regarded as a charismatic figure by
directly elect their candidates. Lastly, many, and there is general awareness
there are many social organizations, to and appreciation of the social reforms
achieved since the revolution. It
remains to be seen how the intro-
duction of Western affluence will affect
the country in the long term.

THE ECONOMY
The most important factor in the
Cuban economy is tourism. Since 1980
the island has been open to foreign
tourists, which has meant that the
traditional flow of citizens from
Waving Cuban flags at a rally Eastern European countries has been
18 I N T R O D U C I N G C U B A

Varadero, one of the most popular resorts for international tourism

replaced by the arrival of tourists from Cuban peso and the convertible peso,
western capitalist countries the only the result of the boom in tourism, is
people who can bring strong still a problem to be resolved. Another
currencies into the country. The important item in the local economy
decision to make more of the nations is sugar cane: Cuba is still one of the
rich natural and architectural worlds leading exporters of sugar,
heritage to produce some degree with 156 extraction centres.
of wealth was crucial for the
economy. However, it has also EDUCATION AND CHILDREN
created major changes in the Jos Mart, who was a poet
social relationships, habits and and man of letters, and
customs of millions of became a hero of national
people, who after 30 years independence (see p45),
A popular toy made of stated that the only way to
o f s e m i - i s o l a t i o n h a v e wood and three wheels
begun to measure be free was to be educated.
themselves alongside Wester n The Cuban Revolution has not
Europeans, Canadians and even the forgotten this motto and has staked
occasional embargo-defying American. much on fostering free public
The uneasy dual economy of the education. Thanks to the massive
literacy campaign of 1961 (see p52),
illiteracy was almost completely
eradicated within a short time. Today
most of the islands people, half of
whom are under 30 that is, born
since the Revolution can read and
write the official language, Spanish,
and are also taught foreign languages.
Throughout the country Casas de la
Cultura, or cultural centres, act as
venues for exhibitions, performing arts
and even dance evenings. Child care is
Machines used to harvest sugar cane an important component of the
 A P O R T R A I T O F C U B A 19

nations educational policy: the restrictions imposed by the economic

government has invested a great deal crisis. The presence of highly trained
of effort and funds in the younger Cuban doctors and the reduced costs
generations and is particularly keen on of therapy and hospitalization have
protecting children, who are safe- made the island a centre for health
guarded from the exploitation and tourism; patients from many countries
sweatshop labour so common in many come here for specific treatments,
Latin American and Third World especially for skin and stress problems.
countries. Children are well looked
after in Cuba: they have the right to
attend nursery schools and day-care
centres and to education, physical
education and recreational activities.
All these services are free for everyone
and generally of good quality.

HEALTH
The achievements of the government
in the field of health have raised the
country to the level of the worlds
Javier Sotomayor, the gold medallist in the high jump
most industrialized nations. A great in the 1992 Olympics at Barcelona
deal has been invested in providing
hospitals and medical consultants SPORTS
throughout the island, in free Physical activity has always been
medicine, and in concentrating on encouraged by the government via a
prevention (the nationwide vaccination mass physical education programme
of infants and children has virtually and numerous specialist schools that
eliminated diseases common on the offer talented youngsters the chance to
American continent) and medical make a name for themselves. As a
research. Cuba has the lowest infant result, sports standards are high, and
mortality rate and the highest life Cuba has many Olympic champions.
expectancy rate in Latin America. The Baseball is the national sport (the
health service, which is free for Cuban team is one of the best in the
everyone, is excellent despite world), and athletics, volleyball,
basketball and boxing
are also popular. Leading
figures in sport include
boxer Kid Chocolate
(191088), successful in
the US before the
Revolution, high-jump
champion Javier Soto-
m a y o r, A n a F i d e l i a
Quirot, the 800m world
champion in 1995 and
1997, and Ivan Pedroso,
gold medallist in long-
jump in Sydney 2000 and
Boxing training in a Havana gym
Edmonton 2001.
20 I N T R O D U C I N G C U B A

Landscape, Flora and Fauna

The Cuban poet Nicols Guilln once
likened his native island to a green
crocodile with eyes of stone and
water. An aerial view would show
the island stretching out in the
A land crab, a
Caribbean Sea and indeed covered
marsh inhabitant with vegetation and patterned with
rivers. Small islands and coral reefs
lie just offshore in the sparkling blue sea. In the interior,
the landscape is very varied, from plains of red earth to
the mogotes outcrops of Viales, from desert cactus to
tropical forest. Protected reserves make up 22 per cent
Coral reefs, with their own distinct
of the national territory. There are numerous species ecosystem (see p147)
found only on Cuba, but no poisonous creatures.

MOUNTAINS PLAINS
The most important ranges are the Sierra de Areas of plain occur throughout the island,
los rganos to the West, the Sierra del Escam- but are particularly prevalent in the central
bray in the centre and the Sierra Maestra to regions the provinces of Matanzas, Sancti
the southeast. The latter is Cubas principal Spritus and Camagey and in the Pinar del
range and includes Pico Turquino (1,974 m/ Ro area. The land is fertile and planted with
6,475 ft), the highest peak in the country. The sugar cane, palm trees, mangoes and citrus
slopes are covered with forests of deciduous fruit, or left as grazing land for cattle.
trees, pines and tropical plants, and by coffee
and cocoa plantations.

The cattle egret

Carpintero The tiosa, or turkey follows grazing cows
(carpenter) is the The cartacuba (Todus vulture, with its and feeds on insects,
Cuban name for multicolor) is an endemic unmistakable red both those disturbed by
the woodpecker, species only a few head, flies the plains ploughing and others
which nests in centimetres long. It has in search of carrion. on the cows hides.
tree trunks. highly coloured plumage.
The so-called gulf fritillary
The tocororo (Cuban is one of 190 species of
trogon) is the national butterfly in Cuba,
bird. The colours of the about 30 of
flag of Cuba were which are endemic
inspired by its feathers. to the island.
 A P O R T R A I T O F C U B A 21

FLORA
The Cuban landscape is characterized by the many varieties of palm
tree (see p173), together with the pine in the mountainous areas,
and the ceibas in the plains. The yagruma, with large dark green
and silvery leaves, is also widespread. Three
important hardwoods are mahogany, cedar
A flamboyn (royal
and majagua. Splashes of colour are added
poinciana)
to the luxuriant green vegetation by
flowering hibiscus, bougainvillea and
flamboyn (royal poinciana).
Numerous species of orchid
grow here, as well as mariposa,
Cubas national flower.

The ceiba tree, sacred to The mariposa, the

Pre-Columbian peoples national flower

MARSHLANDS TROPICAL FOREST

The southern part of the island in particular The Saga-Baracoa mountain range in Eastern
has many lagoons and marshlands, often Cuba, under the influence of northeast trade
distinguished by mangrove swamps, and is winds, is one of the most biologically diverse
rich in birdlife. The most important area is areas in the Caribbean. Here, the heavy
the Cinaga (swamp) de Zapata, in the rainfall produces thick vegetation.
province of Matanzas (see p166).
The tiny zunzuncito, the
smallest hummingbird in
the world, lives in
protected or wooded
areas like the Pennsula
de Zapata.

Buteogallus
anthracinus gundlachi The black anolis
Pink flamingoes live
is an endemic hawk lizard, a forest reptile,
in areas of brackish reacts to disturbance
water from Cayo that feeds on crabs.
by inflating the white
Coco to Zapata. part under its throat.
Mangroves
develop an
intricate root The Polymita picta, an
system under endemic species of snail that
water. This habitat lives only in the Baracoa
suits a diverse area, has a brightly
range of birds coloured shell and feeds
and fish. on plant parasites.
22 I N T R O D U C I N G C U B A

Santera
Different religions co-exist in Cuba as the result of its
history. Both the Catholicism of the Spanish
conquerors and the cults imported by the African
slaves have survived. The most widespread of
the African faiths is santera, also called Regla de
Ocha. In order to be able to worship their gods The bat, three conical
despite the persecution of the Spaniards, Yoruba drums of different sizes
slaves, originally from Nigeria, merged their gods with two skins,
identities with certain Catholic saints. Over the years accompany the most
important santera
the two religions have almost become blended. ceremonies.
Pure Catholicism today is not a widespread religion
in Cuba, while santera is so strongly felt that it
is an important part of the national identity. The crown
of Chang, the
king of the
orishas
Rituals are almost
always performed in
a domestic context
(santera has no temples
as such). Rites are
inspired by animistic
spirituality, although
there are elements that
share similarities or even
merge with Catholicism.

Fresh fruit, including

bananas, Changs
favourite

Santeros and babalawos, the

santera priests, foretell the Agog (traditional
future,the former by means of rattles), maracas
seashells, the latter through and bells are played
a complex system of while greeting
divination that makes use the gods.
of stones, seashells, seeds
and coconut shells.

AN ALTAR FOR CHANG

Altars are set up by santera initiates on
feast days, such as their saints birthday
(the initiation anniversary), and decorated
with the attributes of the god to whom they
are dedicated. They also contain elements
belonging to other orishas, such as cloth,
devotional objects, flowers, fruit and
other special foods.

Obbatal, a hermaphrodite
THE ORISHAS god, is the protector of the
The main santera god is Olofi, the head as well as the chief
creator divinity, similar to the God of intermediary between Olofi
Christianity but without contact with and humankind.
Earth. The gods who mediate between
him and the faithful are the orishas, who
listen to the latters prayers. Each orisha
has his own colour and symbols, as well Ochn, the
as a ritual characterized by its type of goddess of love,
dance, music and costumes: Ochn, for lives in rivers, and
example, wears yellow clothes and loves corresponds to the Virgen del
honey, pale soft drinks and violins. Cobre (see p221).
 A P O R T R A I T O F C U B A 23

The aspiring priest (santero) has to undergo

a week of intense initiation ceremonies, and
for an entire year has to dress in white and
adhere to strict rules of behaviour.

The axe and sword are

Changs two warlike attributes.

The batea is a wooden receptacle Various objects Christian, secular

containing natural elements in or even personal items are set together
which the spirit of the god resides.
Only the santero may open it.
on santera altars. Here, three Madonnas
are placed alongside plastic horses.
The piln is the large
wooden mortar on
which the santero sits Eleggu is the first god to be
during the week of greeted during ceremonies. He
initiation, and it is is represented by a stone made
preserved as an object to look like a face, with two shells
of worship. as eyes, and is usually placed
behind a believers front door.

OTHER AFRO-CUBAN
RELIGIONS
Fresh flowers are
always placed on Among the African cults practised in
the altars of Cuba, two others are also significant:
the orishas: Palo Monte (or Regla Mayomb), in
red ones for which herbs and other natural
Chang,
yellow ones
elements are used for magical purposes,
for Ochn, and and Abaku, more of a mutual aid
white ones secret society, for men only. The
for Obbatal. former, introduced to Cuba by Bantu-
speaking African slaves from the
Candles Congo, Zaire and Angola, is based on
the cult of the dead. The faithful, called
paleros, perform rites that are
A basket of sometimes macabre and
offerings even verge on black
is on display magic. A region between
during Nigeria and Cameroon
ceremonies. The
money is used
was the birthplace
to buy objects of the Abaku cult.
of worship. In celebrations
the participants,
disguised as
Yemay, sea goddess and
little devils
mother of orishas, wears blue.
(diablitos),
Capable of great sweetness and
dance and play
great anger, she is linked with
music. The
the Virgen de Regla (see p112).
diablito has become
part of Cuban
folklore.
Chang is
the virile and An Abaku diablito
sensual god of fire and war with his typical
who adores dancing and headdress
corresponds to St Barbara.
24 I N T R O D U C I N G C U B A

Architecture in Cuba
Formal architecture in Cuba began in the Colonial
period. For the entire 16th century all efforts were
concentrated on building an impressive network of
fortresses; then came the first stone-built mudjar-style
houses, which replaced simple wooden dwellings with
tiled roofs. The 18th century was a golden age of civic
architecture, characterized by the Baroque style
imported at a late stage from Europe, which in turn
made way for Neo-Classical buildings in the 19th
The courtyard was a typical
century. The mixture of styles typical of the fin de feature of Colonial architecture
sicle was followed, in 190030, by Art Deco architec- and the centre of domestic life.
ture, a forerunner of the 1950s skyscrapers. Ugly pre- Above, the Conde de Jarucos
fabricated buildings characterize the post-1959 era. Havana residence (see p76).

THE 17TH CENTURY

The tropical climate, with high temperatures and heavy rain,
influenced the local architecture. Many private homes had thick
walls, tiled roofs and windows protected by shutters.

Balconies with slender Sloping roof of

wooden columns terracotta tiles

A typical wooden ceiling at

Calle Tacn 4, in Havana

The house at Calle Obispo

11719 (p72), with its characteristic
central courtyard and wooden
balconies, shows a clear Spanish
influence in the structure itself and
in the building techniques used.

THE 18TH CENTURY

More rooms were added to houses with a central
courtyard, more houses were built, and some wonderful
examples of civic architecture were created. Three
highlights of light Cuban Baroque in Havana are the
Palacio de los Capitanes Generales (pp7071), Palacio
del Segundo Cabo (p66) and Havana Cathedral (p64).
Trinidad also has many 18th-century Colonial buildings.

The arcade on the ground floor,

Stained-glass
which was the external equivalent of
windows
The mezzanine, a structural element the inner courtyard, was an 18th-
introduced in the 1700s century innovation. As trade increased,
mansions like this housed growing Arches supported by
numbers of servants, who lived in columns and pilasters
the lower part of the building. distinguish 18th-century
Limestone faade buildings.

Palacio de los
Capitanes Generales
is a typical Cuban
Baroque mansion, with
thick stone walls, an
abundance of arches,
columns, porticoes and
balconies, and a large
central courtyard with
dense vegetation.
 A P O R T R A I T O F C U B A 25

THE 19TH CENTURY

The widespread use of porticoes with
columns and lintels, wrought iron and
decoration inspired by Classical antiquity
An elegant arched mediopunto window or the Renaissance, is the distinguishing
feature of 19th-century Cuban Neo-Classical
MEDIOPUNTO architecture. Grilles across windows and
These stained-glass windows were created shutters helped air to circulate inside
in the mid-18th century to protect houses (previously the central courtyard performed
from the glare of the tropical sun. They this function). Buildings that best represent
became popular in the 1800s, when Cuban Neo-Classicism are the Palacio de
mansion windows were decorated with Aldama in Havana (p84) and the Teatro
glass set into a wooden frame. The Sauto in Matanzas (p158).
original geometric motifs were later
Wrought- or
replaced by others drawing inspiration Shutters and
cast-iron grilles
from tropical flora and fauna. mediopuntos protected
rooms from bright light.
Ionic pilasters

Palacio de Aldama, designed by Manuel Jos Carrera in 1840 for the

wealthy Don Domingo de Aldama, is the most important Neo-Classical Doric columns
building in Havana. Rejecting Baroque exuberance, it echoes the
the arch is
In the portico
austerity and purity of line of Classical architecture.
replaced by the lintel.

BRIDGING THE 19TH20TH CENTURIES

The architectural value of many Cuban cities derives from the mixture of
different styles.This is seen in buildings such as the Neo-Moorish Palacio
de Valle in Cienfuegos (p170), the Capitolio in Havana (pp823), and at
Paseo and Calle 17, Havanas so-called millionaires row, with splendid
mansions such as the Casa de la Amistad, built in 1926 (see p99).

Palacio de Valle in Cienfuegos,

designed by the Venetian architect
Alfredo Colli in 1912 for Acisclo
del Valle, combines Moorish and
Venetian Gothic elements with
references to Beaux Arts forms a
Detail of the faade typical example of the eclectic styles
of the Palacio Guasch, use of a range of prevailing
Pinar del Ro (p136) architectural motifs and elements.

THE 20TH CENTURY

The early 20th century saw the Edificio Bacard
construction of a few examples of (1930) in Havana,
Art Nouveau and Art Deco buildings, designed by E
paving the way for the major urban Rodrguez, R Fern-
development that took place in Havana ndez and J
in the 1950s. This period witnessed Menndez, is a
the building of some very tall, modern splendid example
skyscrapers and hotels such as the Riviera of Art Deco. It is
and the Habana Libre (then called the clad in granite and
Habana Hilton, p98). In parallel with limestone, with
this came the rise of a style that was motifs in
reminiscent of Rationalist architecture. terracotta.
26 I N T R O D U C I N G C U B A

Painting in Cuba
The history of Cuban painting can be divided into
three basic stages. The first began in 1818 with the
foundation of the San Alejandro Fine Arts Academy,
run by Jean-Baptiste Vermay, a French Neo-Classical
painter. The second began over a century later, in the
1930s, when, thanks to great artists such as Wifredo
Lam, Ren Portocarrero and Amelia Pelez, a movement
influenced by the European avant-garde created a
universally comprehensible idiom that expressed the
unique essence of Cuban identity. Thirdly, after 1959,
as part of a programme of art education that promoted
avant-garde artists, the National School of Art and the
Institute for Advanced Art Studies were founded. Cuban Vctor Manuel Garca, one
painting has always brimmed with vitality and painters of the fathers of modern Cuban
of recent generations have achieved international art, created the archetypal
recognition, helped by shows like the Havana Biennial. Gitana Tropical (1929).

Wifredo Lam (190282),

lived for a while in
Europe and worked with
Pablo Picasso in Paris.
He developed a new
pictorial language that
went beyond national
boundaries. He painted
extraordinary pictures
such as La Jungla
(The Jungle), now in the
Museum of Modern
Art, New York, La Silla
(see p93), and The Third
World (1966), seen
here, which cast a
dramatic light on
the elements in
Cuban religions.

Amelia Pelez (18971968) blended still life motifs

with the decorative elements in Cuban Colonial
architecture such as stained glass and columns,
as seen here in Interior with Columns (1951).

Ren Portocarrero
(191286) expressed the
essence of Cuba through
a Baroque-like vision of
the city, painting domes-
tic interiors and figures of
women, as in Interno del
Cerro (1943). He made
use of bold colour and
was influenced by
the European avant-
garde and Mexican
mural painting.
 A P O R T R A I T O F C U B A 27

Ral Martnez
and Guido Llins were
leading exponents of the
abstract art movement
that came to the fore
in the 1950s60s
and later adopted
the Pop Art style in
representions of
current-day heroes, as
exemplified by Island 70
(1970) by Ral
Martnez, seen here.

Alfredo Sosabravo (b. 1930) a painter, illustrator, engraver

and potter tackles the themes of nature, man and machines
with an ironic twist. A leading figure, he has been active since
the 1960s, together with Servando Cabrera Moreno, a Neo-
Expressionist, Antonia Eiriz, a figurative artist, and Manuel
Mendive, whose subject is Cubas African heritage.

Flora Fong along with

Ever Fonseca, Nelson
Domnguez, Pedro Pablo
Oliva, Toms Snche-
zand Roberto Fabelo
represents a strand of
1970s painting, which
tended towards
abstraction without quite
losing sight of objective
reality. Her Dimensiones
del Espejo is
seen here.

GRAPHIC ART CERAMICS

Graphic design, which first flourished during the In 1950, the physician Juan Miguel
Colonial period, when it was used in the sugar and Rodrguez de la Cruz brought
tobacco industries, with time became an independent together leading painters such as
art form, with the creation of prestigious periodicals Wifredo Lam, Ren
such as Social. During the 20th century the growing Portocarrero and
importance of marketing produced different types Amelia Pelez
of graphic art. In the 1960s, in the wake of the in Santiago de
enthusiasm for the las Vegas, near
victorious revolution, Havana, so
well-designed graphic that they could
posters became a all work on
natural part of the ceramic designs.
main political and It marked the
cultural campaigns, beginning of a
and designs Decorated plate, new artistic genre
became ever more Havana Ceramics in Cuba that today
sophisticated. Use Museum ranges from
of graphic art is still crockery to sculp-
very visible in Cubas ture, and also includes installations
towns and cities and and works for home interiors.
at the roadside all Wonderful examples of Cuban
over the island. ceramics can be found in the
Museo Nacional de la Cermica in
Poster by Alfonso Prieto the Castillo de la Real Fuerza (p68)
for July 26 celebrations and in the Hotel Habana Libre (p98).
28 I N T R O D U C I N G C U B A

Cuban Literature
A frequent theme in the literature of Cuba has always
been the question of national identity, and the genre
has evolved with a marked interest in social problems
and questions about reality. The works of the great
20th-century Cuban authors are regarded as classics,
and younger authors are beginning to attract attention
on the international scene. The Revolution was a
golden era for publishing, because production costs for
books were very low. However, the trade was plunged
into sudden crisis in the early 1990s and many
publishers are only now slowly regaining their former
status. Every year Havana plays host to an International
Book Fair, a major literary event involving authors and An expressive portrait of the great
publishers from all over the world. Cuban poet Nicols Guilln

slavery of the blacks on the

THE 19TH CENTURY island of Cuba, which would THE 20TH CENTURY
also be in the interests of
The birth of Cuban literature their owners. Jos Mara de The leading interpreters of
is usually dated from Espejo Heredia (180339) was a 20th-century Cuban literature
de Paciencia, an epic poem romantic poet who intro- were the poet Nicols
written in the early 1600s duced the American Guilln (190289) and the
by Silvestre de Bal- landscape into New novelist Alejo Carpentier
boa, originally from World literature and (190480), both of whom
the Canary was forced to live were sent into exile because
Islands. However, in the US and of their opposition to
truly national Mexico because Gerardo Machados regime
literature only of his nationalist and their fierce criticism of
began to emerge stance. Gertrudis Batistas dictatorship.
in the 19th Gmez de Avella- Guilln, who was of mixed
century, with the neda (181473), race, spoke for the black
call for an end another romantic, population, exposing among
to slavery and lived for a long other things the brutal
for Cuban Flix Varela, time in Spain and working conditions of the
independence writer-philosopher defended the black macheteros, the labourers
from Spain. population in her who cut sugar cane on the
Among the literary figures novel Sab. Cirilo Villaverde plantations. After Castros
of that time, various names (181294) was a patriot and victory, Guilln was pro-
stand out. Father Flix Varela author of Cecilia Valds, a claimed as national poet
(17871853) was an eclectic famous abolitionist work and asked to head UNEAC,
philosopher and patriot who which was made into a the Cuban writers and artists
wrote a pamphlet extolling zarzuela (operetta) in the union. Taking as his starting
the need to stamp out the 20th century by the Cuban point the rhythms of dance
composer Ernesto Lecuona. and traditional musical
However, the towering genres such as son
figure in the 19th century was (see p30), grafted
the great Jos Mart (185395), onto the classical
an intellectual, journalist and Spanish octo-
author who expressed his syllable,
nationalist ideas in elegant Guillns
literary form (Ismaelillo and stylistic studies
Versos Sencillos are his best- gave rise
known works), and became to bold
a leading exponent of Latin experiments as
American modernism. early as 1931
Another figure in this in works like
movement was Julin del Songoro Cosongo,
Casal, a decadent, symbolist poemas mulatos.
writer. The premature deaths Alejo Carpentier,
of these two brought the an architect,
La Edad de Oro, Jos Marts development of innovative musicologist and Jos Lezama
childrens periodical literature to a halt. writer acutely Lima
 A P O R T R A I T O F C U B A 29

aware of the realities of In general, the literary scene

Cubas situation, was one in revolutionary Cuba has
of the most original and been characterized by
innovative authors in 20th- creative fervour, in poetry
century world literature. and in novel-writing. Among
Using a blend of irony and the veterans, people who
respect, he gave voice to the lived through the experience
myths of his country, anti- from the outset, mention
cipating the destructuring should be made of the poets
of the post-modern novel. Eliseo Diego, Cintio Vitier,
Among his major works Pablo Armando Fernndez
are The Kingdom of This and Fina Garca Marruz; and
World, The Lost Steps, the novelists Flix Pita Author Dulce Mara Loynaz,
Concierto Barroco Rodrguez, Mirta pictured in her twenties
and The Age of Aguirre, and
Enlightenment. Dulce Mara
Two other Loynaz. The CONTEMPORARY
leading figures of works of Loynaz WRITERS
the same period were not
are the dramatist published in Present-day authors worthy
Virgilio Piera Cuba until the of mention include Abel
(191279), a late 20th century, Prieto, the Minister of Culture,
reformer, who had just before a brilliant and perceptive
a marked taste for her death. author of several novels,
experimental These authors including The Cats Flight.
theatre, and Jos A famous novel by Alejo were followed by Another name is Abilio
Lezama Lima Carpentier (1974) the younger Estvez, a dramatist and
(191076), a poet writers Miguel novelist of extraordinarily
of elegance, also a novelist Barnet, Antn Arrufat, Lpez expressive intensity, with a
and chief editor of the Sacha and Csar Lpez, lyrical and visionary tone.
magazine Orgenes. From committed writers in favour Marylin Bobes and Mirta
1944 to 1956 this leading of the revolution. Yez both write from the
periodical printed works by Among the anti-Castro feminist angle. Senel Paz
the best Cuban writers and authors writing in exile, the wrote the story that inspired
artists of the time. It became leading name was the late the film Strawberry and
one of the key publications Guillermo Cabrera Infante Chocolate; and detective-story
in Latin America. Lima is (1929-2005), whose works writer Leonardo Padura is
internationally known as the include Infantes Inferno and known abroad for a quartet of
author of Paradiso (1966). Three Trapped Tigers. mystery novels set in Havana.

CUBAN CINEMA
The founding of the Instituto Cubano del Arte y la Industria Cinemato-
grficos (ICAIC) in 1959 virtually marked the birth of cinema in Cuba.
The aim of this institution was to disseminate motion picture culture
throughout the country, and thus encourage the formation of Cuban
directors, to work on documentary films in particular. Fostered by the
revolutionary government, Cuban cinema
experienced a golden age in the 1960s and has
been evolving ever since. Today Havana is the capital
of new Latin American cinema thanks to the annual
film festival organized by ICAIC. Gabriel Garca
Mrquez, winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature,
Symbol of is president of the Fundacin del Nuevo Cine
the ICAIC Latinoamericano, which also runs the Escuela
Internacional de Cine film school, based in San
Antonio de los Baos. Among Cubas many directors, who
include Julio Garca Espinosa, Manuel Octavio Gmez and
Pastor Vega, there are three particularly outstanding names:
Santiago Alvarez, who has made fine documentaries;
Humberto Sols, director of the classic Luca and of Cecilia;
and the late Toms Gutirrez Alea, who found fame abroad in
1993 thanks to Fresa y Chocolate (Strawberry and Chocolate),
which he made with Juan Carlos Tabo, which courageously Poster for the film Strawberry
dealt with the themes of homosexuality and dissent. and Chocolate
30 I N T R O D U C I N G C U B A

Music and Dance

Anything can be used to make music in Cuba: two
pieces of wood, an empty box and a tyre rim are
enough to trigger an irresistible rhythm, anywhere and
at any time of day, on the bus, on the beach or in the
street. There are top classical music composers and
interpreters, but it is popular music, a fusion of
Spanish melodies and African rhythm, that is the
very essence of Cuba. The success enjoyed by mambo
and cha-cha-cha in the 1950s was followed by the
worldwide popularity of son, rumba and salsa. Dance,
too, is an essential part of life here. No-one stays
seated when the music starts: feet and hands start to
Compay Segundo, the famous son
move with the rhythm, and bodies sway and rock. singer and songwriter

Salsa is dance music which

maintains the rhythmic structure The guitarist is often also the
of son while adding new sounds accompanying voice, while the
borrowed from jazz and other solo singer plays a minor
Latin American genres. percussion instrument such as
the maracas or claves.

Traditional maracas Double bass

Bongo
are made from the fruit (gourd)
of the gira tropical tree.

Tres

SON
This genre is a type of
country music that originated
in Cuba in the 19th century, a
blend of African rhythm and
Spanish melody, which then
greatly influenced Latin
American music as a whole.
In around 1920 son began to
be played in towns in Eastern
Cuba, where, along with
other genres, it produced the
trova tradicional, a ballad-
style song with guitar.

THE MUSICIANS Bola de Nieve (191171),

Three great 20th-century or snowball, is the stage
composers and musicians name that Rita Montaner
are pianist Ernesto Lecuona gave to her pianist Ignacio
(18961963), Ignacio Villa Villa.This husky-voiced
(or Bola de Nieve), and musician also wrote and sang
Prez Prado, in whose very moving love songs.
orchestra Benny Mor sang
Ernesto (see p171). In the 1920s
Lecuona there was the star Rita
Montaner and the Tro Dmaso Prez
Matamoros, the top trova band in Santiago. Prado (b.1922),
Others are Sindo Garay, a bolero writer, the king of mambo,
and Csar Portillo de la Luz, a founder of became an
feeling music in the 1960s. Contemporaries international success
include the salsero Issac Delgado and with his orchestra
Afro-Cuban jazzman Chucho Valds. in the 1950s.
 A P O R T R A I T O F C U B A 31

CUBAN MUSICAL
Guaguanc, a fast variation of
INSTRUMENTS
rumba, enacts a breezy
battle between a man and
woman who tries to parry
his insistent advances. In
effect, this dance is a
thinly disguised Claves
simulation of the
sexual act. Tres
Giro

The voice was the

original element of the
rumba, which began as There are several
song. The percussion exclusively Cuban
A bat covered instruments, the basis of musical
with canvas and Tumbadora this musical genre, were instruments.
seashells or conga added at a later stage.
Among the
stringed instruments
are the tres, a small
guitar, always used in
son bands, with three
pairs of metal strings, and
the requinto, another
small, high-pitched guitar
that is used in trios to
play melodic variations.
Typical Cuban
percussion instruments
are the tumbadora, a tall
wooden and leather
drum played with the
hands, which is used in
all musical forms,
including jazz; the bong,
two small round drums;
the claves, two wooden
cylinders played by
striking them against one
RUMBA another; the giro, the
The African soul of Cuban music, the rumba originated in gourd of the gira fruit
poor neighbourhoods as a voice of rebellion against slavery which is stroked with
and segregation. It then became a form of political satire and a small stick; and the
social criticism, as well as the poignant expression of an marmbula, a rarely
unhappy love affair. Columbia is country-style rumba, while used small piano.
yamb and guaguanc are the urban varieties, with a dance
rhythm that can be sensual and dynamic, or sad and slow.

Los Van Van have

dominated the Cuban
musical scene for over 30
years and are world-famous
for their new rhythms and
sounds (they invented a
new genre, the songo).

Silvio Rodrguez, a singer and

songwriter who defends the ideals Buena Vista Social Club, Wim Wenders
of the Cuban revolution, founded film (1998), brought into the limelight
the Nueva Trova with Pablo traditional son interpreters over
Milans (right) in the late 80 years old, such as the late guitarist
1960s, revitalizing the style and singer Compay Segundo,
and repertory of the trova, the late pianist Rubn Gonzlez,
a rural musical genre. and the late singer Ibrahim Ferrer.
32 I N T R O D U C I N G C U B A

Cuban Cigars
The cigar is an inextricable part of Cubas culture,
history, and even, for some, its essence. It is
known that cigars were used by the native Indians.
After Columbuss voyage, tobacco, regarded in Europe
as having therapeutic qualities, was imported to Spain.
However the first smokers were imprisoned, because
people believed that cigar smoke produced diabolical
effects. Even so, tobacco grew in popularity and was
later exported to other European nations, where Tobacco (cohiba) was used
government agencies were set up to maintain a by Cuban Indians during
monopoly over the product. After the revolution, the religious rites to invoke the
US embargo had a serious effect on the international gods. They either inhaled
sale of cigars (puros), but since the 1990s the fashion the smoke through a tubed
instrument called a tabaco,
for cigar smoking has given a boost to sales. or smoked the rolled leaves.

The tripa is the inside, the core of the The capa is the wrapper leaf
cigar with the filler leaves. In hand-made on the outside of the cigar. It
cigars, the tripa consists of tobacco gives it its smooth, velvety look
leaves which have been selected in as well as its colour.
order to obtain a particular flavour.

The head (or top

part of the cigar) is
cut off before
smoking.

THE PARTS OF A CIGAR

Foot Cigars can be either hand-made or
machine-made. With hand-made cigars the
inside consists of whole tobacco leaves,
The capote is the binder leaf that while machine-made cigars are made up of
holds the inner part together and leaves that are blended and then shredded.
keeps it compact.

BRAND NAMES
There are 32 brands of Cuban cigar on the market today.
Below are four, each represented by a marquilla, or label,
which is placed on the cigar box to identify the brand.
Some designs have not changed since first marketed.

The anilla, the band that goes

around the central part of the
cigar and bears its brand
name, has a curious history.
It is said that in the 18th
century, Catherine the Great of
Russia, a heavy smoker, had
Montecristo (1935) Cohiba (1966) her cigars wrapped with small
bands of cloth so they would
not leave stains on her fingers.
Her eccentricity soon became
fashionable. The first
commercial cigar band was
produced in 1830 by the
manufacturers Aguila de Oro.
Above is a band produced by
Cuaba (1996) Vegas Robaina (1997) the Cuban cigar-maker Romeo
y Julieta in 1875.
 A P O R T R A I T O F C U B A 33

HOW CIGARS ARE MADE Chaveta (blade)

Cigar manufacturing is a real skill
that Cubans hand down from Cutter
generation to generation. This Capote
sequence of photographs shows (wrapper)
Vegetable
how Carlos Gassiot, a highly skilled glue
torcedor (cigar roller), makes a
cigar, from selecting the loose
tobacco leaves to the final touches.

1 Having placed the capote (wrapper leaf) on the

tablet, the torcedor chooses the filler leaves he
wants to use for the core of the cigar: three leaves
from different parts of the plant seco, volado
and ligero (see p139).

3 Once the wrapping is complete,

the final touches are added.

2 He begins to roll (torcer in

Spanish, hence the term
torcedor) the leaves. The capote
First the wrapper leaf is worked
until it is completely smooth.
Then comes the
Chaveta
is wrapped around the filler trimming. The
leaves selected for the tripa, cigar tip is finished
which in turn is covered by the off by wrapping the
capa, which is smooth and end with a last
regular. This determines the tobacco leaf.
appearance of the cigar.

Tableta (tablet)

4 Once the cigar is finished, the torcedor

checks its diameter with a special gauge
stamped with the various standard sizes established
for every kind of cigar. The same instrument is also
used to measure the pre-established length, after which
the cigar is cut to this size using the cutting machine.

THE SHAPE AND SIZE Cuaba Exclusivo,

Cigars are made in different sizes figurado cigar
(heavy, standard or slim ring gauge)
and shapes (they may be regular or
tapered, figurado). Fatter cigars
tend to have a fuller flavour, which
connoisseurs prefer. The best hand-
rolled Cuban cigars benefit from Trinidad Fundador,
ageing, like fine wine. regular-shaped cigar
34 I N T R O D U C I N G C U B A

CUBA THROUGH THE YEAR

B ecause of its tropical climate,
Cuba does not really have
a high or low season,
although officially, peak season
is from December to the end of
generally last only a couple of days
and even then the temperature hardly
ever drops below 10C (50F). The
cooler, drier months from November
to March are the best for sightseeing.
March and in July and August, Thanks to the climate, and the
when hotel rates are higher and Cubans love of music and cultural
flights are packed. Except for the events, there are open-air concerts,
peak of summer, when temper- festivals, and religious and folk
atures can be searingly hot, and festivities all year round. However,
September and October, when the most interesting and eventful
hurricanes are likeliest, any A Carnival months are July, during Carnival,
month is suitable for a visit. It is outfit
and December, when the festivities
warm at the beach even in winter, in Remedios and Havanas two famous
because the frentes fros (cold fronts) cinema and ballet festivals take place.

APRIL Festival de Arte Danzario,

SPRING Havana and Camagey (Apr
La Huella de Espaa, May). Festival featuring all
During this season there is Gran Teatro de la Habana types of dance, from
an escalation of dance and and Castillo de La Real traditional to contemporary
theatre performances. Fuerza, Havana (Apr). experimental. Also includes
The beaches are crowded, A festival of Cuban culture lectures, seminars, educa-
but mainly with visitors the of Spanish derivation: tional activities and work-
Cubans usually go to the concerts, classical dance, shops held by Cuban and
seaside only in summer. flamenco and theatre. visiting international dancers
Festival Internacional and scholars.
MARCH de Percusin, Havana Los Das de la Danza
(Apr). Concerts, (AprMay). Festival
Festival de Monlogos courses, conferences, featuring Cuban
y Unipersonales, Havana lectures and dance groups. On 29
(Mar). A competition for documentary film April, International
actors, authors, directors, screenings, all Dance Day, the Premio
dancers and choreographers revolving around Nacional de la Danza, a
from all over Cuba. It also Cuban percussion A bat player at national prize, is
features monologues by instruments. the Percussion awarded in Teatro
foreign performers. Bienal del Humor Festival Mella, Havana.
Taller Internacional de San Antonio
de Teatro de Tteres, de Los Baos, Museo MAY
Teatro Papalote, Matanzas, del Humor, San Antonio
(MarApr). Performances de los Baos (115 Apr). Primero de Mayo,
by leading puppet theatres, Festival of Humour, Havana (May 1). Rallies,
with seminars, conferences with exhibits, lectures marches and parades are held
and workshops. and performances. in every city in the country.
The most important one takes
place, of course, in Havana:
the citizens gather in Plaza de
la Revolucin for speeches
and patriotic songs.
Feria Internacional del Disco
Cubadisco (International
Record Fair), Pabelln Cuba,
Havana (mid-May). Records
on display and for sale; con-
ferences and concerts.
Fiesta Nacional de la Danza,
Santa Clara (AprMay). The
best local dancers perform in
the towns of this province.
The fiesta ends with a great
The First of May Parade in Plaza de la Revolucin, Havana celebration in Santa Clara.
 C U B A T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 35

AVERAGE DAILY HOURS OF SUNSHINE Sunshine

Hours This chart shows the
10 average daily hours
of sunshine in Cuba.
8 In the winter the days
6
are short: at 6pm the
sun has already set. In
4 the summer the sun is
strong and you should
2 protect your skin and
wear a hat and
0 sunglasses, even if
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
only taking a short
stroll in town.

Fiesta del Gallo, Morn (end

SUMMER of Jun). Parade through town
based on theme of the
There are various festivals cockerel, symbolic here.
and festivities during the Jornada Cucalambeana,
summer months, especially in Encuentro Festival
Havana and Santiago. Almost Iberoamericano de la
every evening there are Dcima, Las Tunas (end of
open-air concerts along Jun, biennial). The most
the Malecn in Havana, important festival of Cuban
particularly in the square rural culture. Concerts and A group of dancers from a
known as the Piragua, which performances by poets, Havana comparsa
is transformed into an open- musicians and repentistas
air dance floor (free of (improvisers). Lectures and seminars and round table
charge). If you plan to literary meetings, exhibits of discussions on Cuban and
include the Carnival in your local handicrafts, theatre. foreign composers.
visit, book accommodation Havana Carnival (JunJul). A Santiago Carnival,
well in advance in both cities. parade of floats in the Santiago de Cuba (second
city streets, going from the half of Jul). Parade of floats
JUNE Hotel Nacional to Calle along the city streets, live
Belascoan, and live music music performed by
Festival Boleros de Oro, performances by comparsas comparsas, and a show from
Santiago, Morn, Havana (processional groups who the Tropicana in Santiago (see
(mid-Jun). String of concerts prepare all year long) in p229). For the most
by the best Cuban and various parts of the city. important parades there is a
international performers At weekends, free concerts grandstand for spectators.
of bolero songs, lectures. are held at the Piragua. 26 de julio (held every year
Encuentro de Bandas de The parades can be viewed in a different city).
Concierto, Plaza de la from a grandstand. The official commemoration
Revolucin, Bayamo (Jun of the attack on the Moncada
115). Outdoor concerts by JULY barracks (see p230), with a
national and international speech by president Ral
bands. Lectures, workshops. Fiesta del Ttere, Havana Castro and other political
(first week of Jul). Puppet leaders in the main square of
shows in different parts of a Cuban city, accompanied
the old town. by children who recite poetry
Fiesta del Fuego, Santiago de and by concerts.
Cuba (first half of Jul). Annual
festival celebrating the music, AUGUST
poetry, figurative art, religions
and history of the Caribbean Festival Internacional
nations. Meetings, shows, de Msica Popular Benny
exhibits, round tables, Mor, Cienfuegos, Lajas and
concerts, poetry readings and Havana (end of Aug,
festivities throughout the city. biennial). Survey of Cuban
Festival Internacional de popular music and its most
Msica Contempornea important figures, with
de Camagey, Camagey lectures and meetings
Walking on stilts in Morn during (Jul). A major contemporary centred around the figure
the Fiesta del Gallo music festival with concerts, of Benny Mor (see p171).
36 I N T R O D U C I N G C U B A

AVERAGE MONTHLY RAINFALL

Rainfall
mm Inches In Cuba, the dry
300 12 season (from
240
November to April)
9 alternates with the
180 rainy season, when
6 brief but heavy
120 showers fall. In the
3
Baracoa and Moa
60 area at the eastern tip
of the island, rainfall
0 0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec is heavier because the
mountains block the
Atlantic winds.

Festival de Teatro Gertrudis Gmez de

AUTUMN de La Habana, Havana Avellaneda (see p28), with
(second half of Sep). This the added participation of
After the August heat, when biennial theatre festival various foreign companies.
everything to do with work features a wide range of As well as productions there
seems to slow down, life performances, including are seminars, discussions,
starts to pick up again. In opera, dance, puppet lectures and conferences.
autumn the schools reopen theatre, street
and work returns to a nor- shows and OCTOBER
mal rhythm. The number of pantomime.
tourists Europeans in The theoretical Festival de La Habana
particular decreases. aspects of theatre de Msica
are also discussed, Contempornea, Havana
SEPTEMBER and experts from all (first half of Oct). Concerts
over the world with top conductors and
Fiesta de la Virgen participate. soloists, world
del Cobre, El Cobre, Santiago Matamoros Son, premires, lectures
de Cuba (8 Sep). On the Santiago (Sep). A and meetings with
feast-day of the Virgin there biennial festival Alicia Alonso contemporary
is a surge in the regular given over to son performing at the Cuban and foreign
pilgrimage to this site from (see p30). Teatro Garca Lorca composers.
all parts of the island. Festival de Teatro Fiesta de la
The statue of the Virgin de Camagey, Camagey Cultura Iberoamericana,
is borne in procession (SepOct). A national theatre Holgun (second half of Oct).
through the streets. competition dedicated to A festival given over to
Spanish culture, with
concerts, exhibitions,
HURRICANES festivities and lectures.
Hurricanes form when masses of hot air with low central Festival Internacional
pressure move upwards in a spiral, pulling cold air in towards de Ballet de La Habana,
the centre from the surrounding atmosphere. They cause Teatro Garca Lorca, Havana
high tides, extremely strong winds, and very heavy and per- (second half of Oct). A
sistent rainfall resulting in floods. The areas most vulnerable wide-ranging survey of
to these storms are the coasts, areas with little surface classical ballet, organized by
drainage, the valleys, the mountain areas and the cities. the Ballet Nacional de Cuba
Most of the natural disasters in Cuba in the last 100 years headed by Alicia Alonso.
have been caused by these Famous international artists
storms. In 2008, Hurricanes take part as well.
Gustav and Ike hit the
island eight days apart. Over NOVEMBER
three million people were
evacuated and thousands of Saln de Arte Cubano
homes and crops were Contemporneo, Centro
destroyed, making them the Desarrollo de las Artes
costliest hurricanes to ever Visuales, Havana (biennial).
hit Cuba. September and An expo-competition of
October are the most likely contemporary art works, with
Satellite photograph of months for Caribbean prizes awarded at the end.
Hurricane Gustav over Cuba hurricanes to occur. Also conferences, lectures,
round table discussions.
 C U B A T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 37

Temperature
AVERAGE MONTHLY TEMPERATURE
The chart covers the
C F entire island. In
30 90 practice, Eastern
25 80
Cuba, especially the
Santiago area (except
20 70 for the mountainous
15 60 zones) is hotter. On
the cayos the annual
10 50
temperature range
5 40 varies little. The
30
humidity level goes
0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec from 81 per cent in
summer to 79 per
cent in winter.

it is in fact little celebrated. de Las Vegas, El Rincn

New Years Day is usually (17 Dec). The faithful and
celebrated at home with the the sick come on pilgrimage
family or with close friends, to the church of Rincn;
rather than being the focus many come from Havana
for public events. on foot. Parrandas de
Remedios, Remedios (824
DECEMBER Dec). Cubas most popular
folk festival begins with a
Festival Internacional del childrens parade and ends
Dancing at the Festival de Races Nuevo Cine Latinoamericano, with floats, fireworks and
Africanas, Guanabacoa ICAIC, Havana (first half of exuberance on Christmas Eve
Dec). This is the most (see p177).
Festejos de San Cristbal important cinema festival and
de La Habana (Nov). competition of the year, JANUARY
Festivities and concerts attracting famous
to commemorate the international guests. The Feria
foundation of Havana. main cinemas in the Internacional de
Festival Internacional capital present Artesanas,
de Coros, Sala Dolores, screenings of the Pabexpo, Havana
Teatro Heredia, Santiago Latin American (JanFeb). Handicrafts
de Cuba (biennial). Concerts films in the fair. Stands from
by choral groups from all competition, as well The Feria different countries;
over the world. as retrospectives of Internacional del meetings and lectures.
Libro logo
Festival de Races Cuban and
Africanas Wemilere, international filmmakers. FEBRUARY
Guanabacoa (second half Fiesta a la Guantanamera,
of Nov). A festival of folk Guantnamo (first half of Feria Internacional
events, with closing prize- Dec). Performances of, and del Libro, Fortaleza de San
awarding ceremony. lectures on, Afro-Cuban Carlos de La Cabaa (first
Festival Cubadanzn, religion. Visits to the French half of Feb). Book fair featur-
Teatro Sauto, Matanzas cafetales (old coffee planta- ing a different nation each
(second half of Nov). tions) and the stone zoo. year. New Cuban and foreign
Performances by danzn Da de San Lzaro, Santiago publishing initiatives present-
orchestras and dancers, ed and sold. Round tables,
courses and conferences. conferences, poetry readings,
events and concerts.

WINTER NATIONAL HOLIDAYS

The most active season of New Years Day/
the year from a cultural point Liberation Day (1 Jan)
of view, with many top Labour Day (1 May)
conferences and festivals, the
majority held in the capital. National Rebellion Day
The events calendar is not (26 July)
generally disrupted by the Start of First War of
holiday season, because Independence (10 Oct)
although Christmas has been Festival Internacional del Nuevo
Christmas Day (25 Dec)
an official holiday since 1997, Cine Latinoamericano poster
 I N T R O D U C I N G C U B A 39

THE HISTORY OF CUBA

F
irst inhabited in Pre-Columbian times, Cuba was later
conquered by the Spanish, who ruled here for four centuries.
The island gained independence in 1899, only to come under
the virtual control of the US, with the help of dictators Machado and
Batista. The revolution headed by Fidel Castro and Che Guevara,
who defeated Batista on 1 January 1959, was a turning point for
the country. The new political system achieved major social results
and Cuba is now finally emerging from decades of isolation.
Before the arrival of the resistance, with the exception
Spanish, Cuba was inhabited of a few episodes. The chief
by three Amerindian ethnic Hatuey led a rebellion in
groups: the Guanajatabey, 151112, but was taken prisoner
Siboney and Tano. The first and burnt at the stake (see p219).
were gatherers who lived in Diego Velzquez then
caves. The Siboney, hunters and turned to colonization. He
fishermen, left behind the most founded the city of Baracoa, the
interesting Pre-Columbian rock first capital of the island, in
paintings in the country, more 1512; San Salvador (present-day
than 200 pictures in the caves of Bayamo) in 1513; San Cristbal
Punta del Este on Isla de la (Havana), Santsima Trini-
Juventud (see p151). The Indo-Cuban find, Museo
Bani (see p215)
dad (Trinidad) and Sancti
Tano were farmers and Spritus in 1514; and
hunters thought to be from present- Santiago de Cuba and Santa Mara del
day Venezuela, and their culture, the Puerto del Prncipe (present-day
most advanced of the three, achieved Camagey) in 1515. The native
a primitive form of social organization. population was decimated despite
On 28 October 1492, Christopher vigorous defence by Friar Bartolom
Columbus landed in Cuba during his de las Casas, so-called Protector of
first voyage of discovery in the New the Indians, and the Spanish soon had
World (see p214). He named it Juana to import slaves from the western
in honour of the king of Spains son, coasts of Africa to fulfil the need for
but the natives continued to call it labourers. Later, dissatisfied with the
Cuba. From 1510 to 1514 Diego lack of gold in Cuba, the Spanish
Velzquez de Cuellar, upon commis- began to use the island both as a base
sion from Columbuss son, set about from which they set out to conquer
annexing the island to Spain. This other American territory, as well as a
proved to be a straightforward enter- port of call for ships taking the riches
prise, because the Indians put up little of the New World back to Spain.

TIMELINE
Diego Velzquez 1511 Indian 1514 San Cristbal
Before 1492 de Cuellar resistance led by (present-day Havana),
Cuba inhabited by Hatuey, who is Santsima Trinidad
Guanajatabey, Siboney killed by the (Trinidad) and Sancti
and Tano Indians Spanish Spritus founded
Pre-Columbian age 1490 1500 1510
1510 Diego Velzquez
28 October 1492 de Cuellar begins 1515 Foundation of
Bust of Christopher conquest of Cuba Santiago de Cuba
Columbus, Museo Columbus lands and Santa Mara del
de la Revolucin, on the island 1512 Foundation of Baracoa, Puerto del Prncipe
Havana first city in Cuba (Camagey)

Detail from the painting Siempre Che (Che Forever) by Ral Martnez
 40 I N T R O D U C I N G C U B A

PIRATES AND BUCCANEERS the Dutch, who attacked Spanish

By the mid-1500s the population of galleons loaded with treasure as well
Cuba had dwindled considerably as the Cuban ports.
because the native Indians had been In order to deprive Spain of her
virtually annihilated by forced labour colonies, France, Britain and the
and diseases, and the Spanish had left Netherlands joined in the corsair war
for other parts of the New World in essentially state-sanctioned piracy
search of gold. However, the island by financing attacks on Spanish
was still important strategically as merchant ships. The Spanish crown
one of the defensive bastions of took several measures to defend
the Spanish colonies in its possessions, but to no
America against the expan- avail. In 1697 the Ryswyk
sionist policies of France, Treaty signed by Spain,
Britain and the Netherlands. France and Britain finally
Havana, the chief dock for put an end to this unusual
vessels transporting treasure war in the West Indies.
from America to Spain, soon In the meantime Havana had
drew the attention of pirates, become the new capital of
who were plying the Cuba, thanks to its well-pro-
Caribbean Sea by the second Henry Morgan, the tected bay, and the constant
half of the 16th century. In British buccaneer ebb and flow of men and pre-
1555, the French buccaneer cious cargo imparted a vitality
Jacques de Sores sacked and burned unknown to most of the other cities in
Havana, triggering the construction of the New World. However, the rest of
an impressive fortification system. the island was isolated from this fer-
Pirate raids became more and more ment, even though agriculture was
frequent in the 17th century. The first developing rapidly as the Spanish
buccaneers were French, then came encouraged the large-scale cultivation
the turn of the British (including of sugar cane and tobacco, which soon
Francis Drake and Henry Morgan) and became desirable commodities in
Europe (see p32). Cuba, a major hub
of maritime traffic, was compelled to
trade only with the parent country,
Spain. Within a short time the island
became a haven for smuggling, which
was a boost for the islands economy,
stimulating the exchange of Cuban
sugar and tobacco for the products of
the Old World.

THE BRIEF BRITISH DOMINION

Although in the 17th century the Cuban
population, concentrated around
Havana, had increased with the arrival
The French buccaneers led by Jacques de Sores of Spanish settlers and African slaves,
sacking the city of Havana in the early 18th century the island was

TIMELINE
1586 Havana again The coat of arms of
risks being attacked by Havana: the key of the
Francis Drakes British Gulf, with its fortresses
buccaneers

1550 1600 1650

16th-century
Spanish galleon 1555
Havana sacked and burned 1607 Havana becomes
by French buccaneers under the islands capital
Jacques de Sores
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F C U B A 41

The British fleet attacking Havana in the summer of 1762

still a minor colony. In the summer of movement promoted by the intellec-

1762 Havana was conquered by the tuals De Heredia, Varela and Villaverde
British under the leadership of George (see p28) aimed at establishing a
Pocock and Lord Albemarle, who ruled Cuban national identity. In the early
for about a year. However, even in this 19th century, Spain, forced to recog-
short period the British occupation nize the independence of other
changed the economic and social American colonies, granted some free-
organization of the island. The trade dom to Cuba, but then gave the
restrictions imposed by Spain were islands governors dictatorial powers.
abolished, and Cuba began to trade Years of revolts, which the Spanish
openly with British colonies in North subdued mercilessly, then ensued.
America. The slave trade intensified However, the new Creole middle class
with Africans being used as labourers no longer had vested interests in the
on the sugar cane plantations. As a Spanish crown, and was determined
result of the Treaty of Paris, drawn up to gain independence for the island.
in 1763, Havana was returned to the
Spanish in exchange for Florida.

THE RISE OF NATIONAL IDENTITY

The 18th century marked the birth of
a Creole aristocracy. These people,
Cuban-born of Spanish descent, com-
missioned the fine buildings which can
still be seen today, and led a Colonial
lifestyle based on a combination of
local, Indian and African traditions. At
the end of the century, a cultural The new Havana middle class taking a carriage ride

1697 The Treaty 1762 The British 1830 Cuba replaces Haiti
of Ryswyk ends the attack and occupy as the worlds leading
corsair war in Havana producer of sugar
the West Indies

1700 1750 1800

Captain
1763 The Treaty of Paris marks the General Lus de 1837 First Cuban
end of British occupation and las Casas, railway line opens,
Havana is given back to the Spanish governor of beginning at the
Cuba 179096 port of Havana
42 I N T R O D U C I N G C U B A

Sugar, Slaves and Plantations

At the beginning of the 19th century the Cuban sugar Bells marked the daily routine
industry was booming, thanks to the growing demand of life in the ingenio: at 4:30am
the Ave Maria was played to
for sugar in Europe and America. The growth of the wake the workers; at 6am the
industry was made possible by the labour of slaves assembly marked
brought from Africa in their greatest numbers from the the beginning of
late 18th to the early 19th centuries. About one million work proper. At
men and women were brought to Cuba, and by 8:30pm the last
around 1830 black Africans, including slaves and bell sounded to
legally freed slaves, made up more than half the announce
population of Cuba. The island became the worlds bedtime.
leading sugar manufacturer, overtaking Haiti, and the
industry continued to thrive after the abolition of
slavery. Life on the sugar plantations therefore became
a key feature of the islands history and life.

Storehouses, stables The sugar refining area

and cattle sheds were built stood in the original core of the
around the ingenio area. sugar factory, the trapiche or mill.

Cimarrones were runaway

slaves who hid in the
mountains or forests to avoid
the rancheadores, whose job it
was to find and capture them,
dead or alive. These fugitives
organized frequent revolts,
which were almost inevitably
suppressed with bloodshed.

The first stret ch of

railway on the island,
which actually preceded
the introduction of trains in
Spain, was inaugurated in
1837 to transport sugar
cane to the port of Havana.

Slaves were used

in all phases of sugar
manufacture, and not
only as field labourers.
This old illustration
shows the sala de las
calderas, where the
cane juice was boiled
before being refined.
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F C U B A 43

Carlos Manuel de Cspedes,

the owner of an estate near
Manzanillo, freed his slaves on
10 October 1868, thus triggering
the Cuban wars of independence. The dances and music that are thought to have given
In his manifesto he asked for rise to the rumba (see p31) were performed in the
the abolition of slavery. ingenio, accompanied by the drumming of cajones,
wooden boxes used to transport goods. Every year
The barracones (the slaves on 6 February the plantation owners allowed
dormitories) were rectangular their slaves to celebrate their origins by
buildings divided into small dancing in the streets dressed in
rooms and with only one traditional costumes.
grilled door.

THE INGENIO
The sugar factory (ingenio) was
in reality an agro-industrial
complex, in the middle of which
stood the owners house. This
was usually an elegant building,
often embellished with arches
and wrought-iron grilles. The
sugar factory owner would stay
here during the long inspection
periods. The batey, an Amerindi-
an term used to describe
collectively all the buildings on
an ingenio, included a sugar cane
mill, refinery rooms, a distillery,
an infirmary, stables and cow
sheds, vegetable gardens,
storehouses, and the slaves
barracones, or sleeping quarters.

A CULTURAL MELTING POT

The ingenio was a place where landowners,
farmers and slaves, white and black, men
and women, had to live and work together.
The African slaves came from different
ethnic groups and spoke different
Symbol of the languages, but they managed to keep their
Abaku religious practices alive by meeting in the
religion
cabildos (mutual aid associations), where
they continued to pray to their gods,
concealing them in the guise of Catholic saints (see
pp223). The Spanish themselves ended up assimilating
The ethnologist Fernando elements of the very traditions they had been trying to
Ortiz (18811969) was the first suppress. Present-day Cuban music and dances were
person to seriously analyze the widespread in the batey, and the original songs and
social condition of the blacks in literature constantly refer to the ingenio, since it was
Cuba, emphasizing the cultural here that the cultural crossover typical of Cuba evolved.
bonds with African traditions.
44 I N T R O D U C I N G C U B A

THE TEN YEARS WAR RESUMPTION OF HOSTILITIES

AND THE ABOLITION OF SLAVERY AND THE END OF THE WAR
On 10 October 1868, at his La Dema- Towards the end of the 1800s, despite
jagua estate (see p219), the landowner the rebellions, living conditions on the
Carlos Manuel de Cspedes launched island had remained basically the same
the grito de Yara (war-cry from Yara), and none of the promised reforms
calling upon his fellow Cubans to rebel had been enacted. In 1892, the Cuban
against Spanish rule. After conquering intellectual Jos Mart (185395), in
Bayamo, the rebels set up a revolu- exile in the US, made a major contri-
tionary government and chose bution to the struggles that would
Cspedes as President of the Republic. follow: he founded the Partido
On that occasion, the Cuban Revolucionario Cubano, which
national anthem was sung for united the Cuban forces in
the first time. The new repub- favour of independence.
lic, however, was short-lived. The war against Spanish
The Spanish came back with repression resumed on 24
a vengeance and the rebels February 1895. The leading
known as mambises (vil- figures were Mart the real
lains) responded with the author and coordinator of
famous machete assaults. In Cubas struggle for independ-
the meantime, the struggle ence, who died in battle on
had spread to other provinces, Mximo Gmez 19 May, Mximo Gmez
but differences among the (recruited by Mart himself,
rebels certainly did not help the cause. who went to Santo Domingo to meet
The Ten Years War during which him) and Antonio Maceo. These last
the first Cuban constitution was writ- two had already distinguished them-
ten (1869) ended in 1878 with the selves in the Ten Years War. There was
Treaty of Zanjn, at which the rebels an escalation in the war and Spain sent
capitulated. Some revolutionaries reinforcements, but the situation was
rejected this agreement; already out of control. Gmez and
one was General Antonio Maceo extended the war from the east
Maceo, who was forced to the west, gradually liberating the
into exile. There fol- island. Not even the arrival of the
lowed the so-called Spanish general Valeriano Weyler, who
guerra chica, a was granted extraordinary powers, did
brief conflict that any good: the war had taken a decided
resulted in the official turn for the worse for the Spanish.
abolition of slavery in On 15 February 1898, when the
1886 (slave trade had in Cubans had practically won, the
practice been prohibited American cruiser Maine, officially sent
since 1880).Cuba was the to the bay of Havana to protect US cit-
last American colony to izens and property in Cuban territory,
abolish slavery. It was exploded mysteriously, causing the
in this period that death of about 250 marines. The US
General Maceo, who trade relations with accused Spain of being responsible for
was exiled in 1878 the US developed. the tragedy and, with public opinion

TIMELINE
10 February 1878
Road sign for The Treaty of Zanjn marks the
La Demajagua, capitulation of the rebels and the end of
Cspedes estate the Ten Years War (186878), the first
stage in the struggle for independence

1870 1875 1880 1885

10 October 1868 1886

From Yara, Carlos Manuel de Cspedes The machete, the symbolic Formal abolition
launches the cry that triggers the revolt weapon of the rebellion of slavery
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F C U B A 45

The US battlecruiser Maine in Havana Bay in 1898, with the Castillo del Morro on the right

on their side at home, intervened in the handed the keys of Havana to US

war. On 3 July the US Navy defeated general John Brooke. From this point
the Spanish fleet, with the obvious onwards, Cuba became inextricably
intent of taking part in the peace treaty. linked with the United States.
On 10 December the Treaty of Paris
which involved Spain and the US, but US SUPERVISION
not Cuba marked the end of Spanish In February 1901 the Constituent
Colonial dominion in America. On Assembly approved the first Cuban
1 January 1899 the last Spanish gover- constitution and Toms Estrada Palma
nor, Jimnez y Castellanos, officially was elected president. However, the
delegates were forced to accept the
Platt Amendment, formulated by US
JOSE MARTI senator Orville Platt and added to a bill
In 1895, when he died in battle at Boca de in Congress. Officially this provision
dos Ros, Jos Mart was only 42. Despite
this, he had had years of experience of aimed at safeguarding peace on the
living in exile and revolutionary struggle, island, but its underlying purpose was
besides writing a number of poems, to sanction the right of the US to inter-
articles and essays that would be the envy vene in Cuban affairs and to supervise
of a veteran author. Mart was born in trade relations between Cuba
Havana in 1853 to Spanish parents. By
the time he went to secondary school
and other nations. In addition, the US
he was already participating in anti- was granted the right to establish
Spanish conspiracies. This activity naval bases on the island, includ-
led to his being deported in 1868, ing the one at Guantnamo in
and exiled in 1878, after which he Eastern Cuba, which it still main-
lived in the US, Spain, Mexico, tains (see p239).
Guatemala and Venezuela. As an
essayist and journalist, Mart was Although formal independence
known for his vigorous style. He was granted to Cuba on 20 May
was also a modernist poet (see p28). 1902, in the years that followed
He was an activist, a great politician American involvement in the local
and a sensitive interpreter of the economy increased and, on the pre-
impulses of the human soul.
text of safeguarding their citizens and
Jos Mart, a national hero investments, the US sent marines to
the island on many occasions.

Toms Estrada
15 February 1898 Palma, first
18958 Explosion 25 February 1901 president
Jos Mart heads resumption of of the battlecruiser First constitution of Cuba
hostilities against the Spanish Maine

1890 1895 1900

1892 Jos Mart, in exile 19 May 1895 7 December 1896 10 December 1898
in the US, founds the Jos Mart dies in Antonio Maceo Paris Treaty marks end 20 May 1902
Partido Revolucionario combat dies in of Spanish dominion Cuba obtains
Cubano combat and beginning of formal
American control independence
46 I N T R O D U C I N G C U B A

THE EARLY PERIOD

OF THE REPUBLIC
In its first 25 years, the Cuban Repub-
lic was headed by various presidents
who did relatively little for the coun-
try. The second incumbent, Jos
Miguel Gmez, who was nicknamed
tiburn (shark), is at least to be cred-
ited for having introduced free public
education and freedom of association
and speech, as well as the separation
of Church and State, and laws regard-
ing divorce. In the early 1900s, sugar
cane production increased to the point
where sugar became virtually the
only crop grown, and several new
sugar factories were built. Havana,
especially in the 1920s, saw the A popular uprising against the corrupt, inefficient
development of entire urban areas. government of Gerardo Machado
However, in general, independence
had not really benefited the popula- GERARDO MACHADOS REGIME
tion at large, and protest demonstra- In 1925 Gerardo Machado became
tions, repressed with force, began to president of Cuba, later changing the
increase. The first trade and student Constitution so he could rule for a fur-
unions were set up, and in 1925 the ther term, which he did with iron force
Cuban Communist Party was founded. until 1933. This period was marked by
The leading figure in the party was the violence and tyranny; the people
Marxist intellectual Julio Antonio demonstrated their discontent by
Mella, leader of the Havana student means of continual strikes, and the
movement and key to Latin American situation worsened with the Great
left-wing politics. Mella was arrested Depression. A long general strike and
in Cuba but then freed because of the the loss of the support of the army
massive demonstrations forced Machado to flee to the Bahamas
that took place after he on 12 August 1933.
went on hunger After a brief period of progressive
strike; he was then government, from early 1934 onwards
sent into exile in Mexi- there were various presidents who
co. However, on 10 were little more than puppets, placed
January 1929, Mella there by Sergeant Fulgencio Batista
was assassinated in who himself became president from
Mexico City by 1940 to 1944. From 1934 to 1940 vari-
hired killers in the ous social reforms came into being:
pay of the dictator the Platt amendment was revoked,
Gerardo Mach- women were allowed to vote, an eight-
The Marxist intellectual ado. He became hour working day was instituted, and
Julio Antonio Mella a national hero. a new constitution was enacted.

1907 Birth of Independent Colour 191020 1925 1929

Party, which demands equality Architectural boom Gerardo Machado Economic
between whites and blacks in Havana becomes president crisis

1905 1910 1915 1920 1925 1930

29 September 1906
Intervention of US 1925 Founding of
Marines, who police Havana railway Cuban Communist
Cuba until 1909 station (1912) Party
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F C U B A 47

BATISTAS DICTATORSHIP
After World War II the Orthodox Party
led by Eduardo Chibs became popu-
lar, supported by the more progressive
members of the middle class. This party
might have won the election that was
to take place on 1 June 1952, but on 10
March Fulgencio Batista staged a coup.
Protest demonstrations followed, con-
sisting mostly of students, which were Fulgencio Batista (left) with American
ruthlessly repressed. The university was vice-president Richard Nixon
then closed. Batistas government, hav-
ing the official support of the US, aban- measure. However, there was a high
doned its initial populist stance and be- price to pay: Cuba had not only
came an out-and-out, violent dictator- become a land of casinos and drugs, it
ship indifferent to the needs of the had also fallen into the hands of the
Cuban people. In fact, vast areas of land American underworld, which ran the
were sold to American and British firms, local gambling houses and luxury ho-
and the money was pocketed. As the tels, used for money laundering.
dictators cronies became rich, the pop-
ulation became poorer, and the coun- THE CUBAN REVOLUTION
try more and more backward. After Batistas coup, a young lawyer,
Cuba was becoming a pleasure island Fidel Alejandro Castro Ruz, an active
which held an overpowering fascina- student leader who associated with
tion, especially for Americans. the Orthodox Party, denounced the
By the 1950s Cuba was famous for illegitimacy of the new government to
glamour its music and cocktails, its the magistracy, without effect. Since
splendid prostitutes, cigars, drinking peaceful means did not work, on 26
and gambling, and the sensual tropical July 1953 Castro made an unsuccessful
life attracted mafiosi and film stars, attempt to capture the Moncada army
tourists and businessmen, in equal barracks at Santiago (see p230). He
was one of the few fortunate surviving
rebels and was tried and sentenced to
imprisonment in the Presidio Modelo,
on Isla de Pinos (currently Isla de la
Juventud). Thanks to an amnesty, he
was freed two years later and went into
exile in Mexico, where he set about
organizing the revolutionary forces,
and was joined by a young Argentine
doctor, Ernesto Che Guevara. This
famous collaboration proved to be
decisive for the success of the
Revolution. In 1959, after years of
armed struggle, the island was freed
Dancers at the Tropicana in the 1940s from dictatorships (see pp4851).

12 August 1933 19404

At night, Machado Fulgencio Batista obtains 19539
flees with a load of presidential mandate thanks The Revolution
gold to the Bahamas to a coalition of forces liberates Cuba from
dictatorship
1935 1940 1945 1950 1955

January 1934 10 March 1952

Start of a period with a series Coup dtt by
of puppet presidents manoeu- Sergeant Fulgencio Batista
vred by the Cuban Army Fulgencio Batista
sergeant Fulgencio Batista
48 I N T R O D U C I N G C U B A

The Cuban Revolution

In exile in Mexico after the attack on the
Moncada army barracks, on 25 November
1956 Fidel Castro left for Cuba on the
yacht Granma with 81 other revolution-
aries, including Che Guevara. Three days
later they were attacked by Batistas
troops, and only a few managed to
escape to the Sierra Maestra, where
they began to organize their guerrilla
war. The miserable living conditions of
the people, and the ever increasing The attack against the Moncada barracks
corruption and repression, lent impetus took place on 26 July 1953 (the 100th anniver-
to their struggle. The rebel army, which sary of Jos Marts birth). The rebels took
included farmers, students, women and advantage of the Carnival festivities to move
regular army deserters, defeated Batistas unseen in the crowds, but the attack was a failure.
troops after two years of fighting. Santa Clara was the scene of the battle
Havana was occupied by Che that marked the triumph of the revolution.
KEY Guevaras guerrillas, while After the rebels victory, Batista fled to
Castro entered Santiago de Santo Domingo (31 December 1958).
Ral Castros march
Cuba (1 January 1959). Havana
Che Guevaras march Matanzas
Camilo Cienfuegos march

Pinar del Ro
Santa Clara

Cienfuegos

Isla de la
Juventud
Sierra del Escambray was reached by
Che Guevara after an exhausting
march; his men were without food or
shoes and extremely weary but they
were victorious (October 1958).
Radio Rebelde
was the guerrillas THE PHASES OF THE WAR
radio station, set up in The advance of two columns of guerrillas from
the Sierra Maestra by the Sierra Maestra one led by Che Guevara and
Che Guevara in Camilo Cienfuegos to the west (October 1958),
February 1958. Its the other by Ral Castro bound for Guantnamo
programmes were marked the climax of the revolutionaries struggle.
listened to avidly After the battle of Santa Clara, conquered by
all over the island. Guevaras troops at the end of December, Batista
escaped to Santo Domingo. On 1 January 1959
victory was declared by the revolution.

The Landing of the Granma

in Cuba took place on
2 December 1956. Due to
some problems at sea, the
yacht landed on 2 December
and not 30 November as
planned. Three days later
they were attacked by
Batistas troops. Those
captured were killed, while
the survivors (including
Castro) took refuge in the
Sierra Maestra.
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F C U B A 49

Castro entered Havana on 8 January 1959 and on

16 February was elected prime minister. At the time the
president was Manuel Urrutia, elected after Batistas
escape. The revolutionary government immediately
Young women, including Haide abolished racial discrimination and reduced rents
Santamara, Celia Snchez and and the cost of electricity.
Vilma Espn, participated actively
in the revolutionary war.
After Havana was captured,
they were entrusted with
guarding strategic points.

On the Sierra Maestra, Cubas largest mountain

range, the rebels organized guerrilla warfare,
Camagey recruiting soldiers from among the
population (above, Castro recruiting
farmers). The strategy was to ambush
Holgun Batistas troops and take
their supplies and
weapons.
Playa Las Coloradas
was where the Granma Bayamo Santiago
landed on
de Cuba
Guantnamo
2 December 1956.

At Santiago de Cuba the

The attack at La Plata, a In the Sierra MaestraFidel Castro, Che rebels won an important
military barracks, was the Guevara and the other survivors of the victory on 17 January
rebels first success Granma worked out a strategy of 1957.
(17 January 1957). guerrilla warfare with a growing number
of barbudos, students, army deserters
and reinforcements sent by the urban
branch of the Movimiento 26 de Julio.

TIMELINE

October 1953 Castro 30 November 31 August Che and 1 January Che

condemned to 15 1956 Bloody Che Cienfuegos leave and Cienfuegos
years imprisonment repression of Guevara east to conquer enter Havana;
in Presidio Modelo revolt at Santiago central regions Castro, Santiago
1953 1956 1958 1959

26 July 1953 15 May 1955 2 December 24 February Radio 8 January

Attack on Castro freed, 1956 Landing Rebelde set up Castro enters
Moncada goes to of Granma Havana in
barracks Mexico in 31 December triumph
exile 195658 Guerrilla Santa Clara falls,
war in Sierra Maestra Batista flees
Castro leaving prison
50 I N T R O D U C I N G C U B A

The Heroes of the Revolution

The success of the revolution can be partly explained
by the moral stature of the heroes who headed it, and
partly by the unity of the movement an entire
population was determined to obtain freedom. After
their triumphal entrance into Havana, the revolutionary
leaders were entrusted with the task of realizing their
objectives: the reorganization of the countrys
agriculture, afflicted with large landed estates and
monoculture; the battle against illiteracy and
unemployment; industrialization; the construction of
homes, schools and hospitals. Fidel Castro became
Prime Minister and Che Guevara was appointed
Minister of Industry and president of the National Bank.
The revolution continued, with its heroes and ideals. Ernesto Che Guevara was an
Argentinian who met Castro in
The straw hats
Mexico. Unpretentious,
worn by the barbudos straightforward and ascetic, and
were those commonly an uncompromising idealist, he
used by farmers. believed the Third World could be
freed only through armed
rebellion (see p176).

Camilo Cienfuegos, a com-

mander whose courage was
legendary, was a direct, spon-
taneous person with a great
sense of humour. He played a
crucial role in the armed
struggle, but took part in the
government only for a brief
period. He disappeared on 28
October 1959 while returning
in his small plane after arresting
guerilla commander Hubert
Matos, who had betrayed the
Revolution, in Camagey, and
was never seen again.

Horses were the most

common means of transport
used by the revolutionaries.

Frank Pas (seen here with his mother and

fiance), head of the Movimiento 26 de Julio,
was entrusted with organizing a revolt in
Santiago de Cuba that would coincide with
the landing of the Granma on 30 November
1956. But because of the delay in the
landing the revolt was repressed. Pas died
in Santiago during the armed revolt, in an
ambush set up by the chief of police.
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F C U B A 51

Ral Castro, Fidels brother, currently

President of Cuba, was one of the few
survivors of the landing of the Granma.
He took part in the guerrilla
war and became a
member of the govern-
ment, adopting a radical
stance. As Minister of
Defence he signed,
with Khrushchev,
the agreement for
the installation of
the nuclear
missiles in Cuba
that caused the
1962 crisis.

Fidel Castro with Juan Almeida (left),

The Cuban flag, used after the
wars of independence, has the one of the strategists of revolutionary guerrilla warfare.
colours of the French Revolution. Castro, a great orator and political strategist, the Lder
The three blue stripes represent Mximo and an uncompromising patriot, personified
the old provinces of the island. the Cuban state. As poet Nicols Guilln wrote, he
accomplished what Jos Mart had promised. Born on
13 August 1926 in Mayar in Eastern Cuba, the son of
Spanish immigrants, he studied with the Jesuits and
took a degree in law. He began to fight for the
cause while at university.

THE BARBUDOS
The rebels were referred to
as barbudos (bearded men)
because during their time in
the mountains, they all grew
long beards. A large number
of farmers joined their famous
marches. This photograph,
taken by the Cuban photog-
rapher Ral Corrales,
expresses the epic and team
spirit of the revolution.

Guillermo Garca Morales

was one of the first Cuban
farmers to join the
revolutionary war of the
Movimiento 26 de Julio. A Celia Snchez Manduley espoused the
guerrilla in the Sierra revolutionary cause at an early age and
Maestra together with fought in the Sierra Maestra. Considered
Castro, he was named Fidel Castros right-hand man and
Commander of the companion, after 1959 she filled important
Revolution for his political positions. Celia died of
distinguished service. cancer in 1980, while still young.
52 I N T R O D U C I N G C U B A

ERADICATING ILLITERACY,
AGRICULTURAL REFORM
One of the first acts of the revolution-
ary government was a campaign
against illiteracy, initiated in 1961:
thousands of students travelled through-
out the countryside, teaching the rural
population to read and write. Che
Guevara, who during the guerrilla war-
fare in the mountains had encouraged
his men to devote some time to study,
participated in the campaign. In a short Marines arriving at the US naval base of Guantnamo
during the missile crisis
time illiteracy was eradicated.
The next step was agrarian reform,
which began with the abolition of against Cuba, which heralded a boy-
ownership of large landed estates, cott by most other countries in the
especially those in foreign (in particu- Americas (except Mexico and Canada).
lar American) hands. US landholdings These countries also severed diplomatic
were drastically reduced. This marked relations with the island, as the US had
the beginning of hostilities between done. The result was the establishment
the two countries. In October 1960 the of even closer ties between Cuba and
US declared an economic boycott that the communist world. A year later, when
blocked the export of petroleum to the US discovered the presence of
Cuba and the import of Cuban sugar. nuclear missile sites in Cuba, President
After nearly two years of Kennedy ordered a naval
growing tension, Cuba blockade around the
secured closer economic island and demanded
and political ties with the that the missile installa-
Soviet Union, Eastern tions be dismantled
Europe and China. In immediately. At the
the meantime, the strug- height of the crisis, with
gle against counter-rev- the world poised on the
olutionary guerrillas in brink of nuclear war, the
the Sierra del Escambray Participants in the campaign Soviet president Nikita
against illiteracy in 1961
continued. Khrushchev ordered the
missiles to be taken
THE EMBARGO AND MISSILE CRISIS back to the Soviet Union.
On 17 April 1961 a group of Cuban
exiles and mercenaries trained by the FROM THE ZAFRA CAMPAIGN TO THE
CIA landed at Playa Girn, in the Bay EMIGRATION OF THE MARIELITOS
of Pigs, to invade the island. But the During the early stages, the govern-
attack failed because, contrary to the ment had aimed to create as much
expectations of the US, Cuban civilians diversity in the economy as possible.
did not rise up against Castro (see However, in 1970, in order to inject life
p167). Eight days later President into the flagging economy, all efforts
Kennedy declared a trade embargo were concentrated on promoting the
TIMELINE
1961 April 17: landing at Bay of Pigs;
US embargo begins on April 25 1975 First congress
of the Cuban
1962 Missile 1965 Only legal political party is Communist Party
crisis the Cuban Communist Party
1960 1970 1980
1961 January 3,
diplomatic 1967 Death 1980 125,000
relations with of Che Cubans emigrate
US are Guevara 1970 The zafra from the small
broken campaign harbour at Mariel
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F C U B A 53

zafra (sugar cane harvest) cam- Especial. Many sectors

paign. A target was set of ten of industry came to a
million tons, but in the standstill due to a lack
end only 8,500,000 were of fuel, imports were
harvested. In the same reduced, interrup-
period some Latin tions in the supply
American countries of electricity and
resumed diplomatic water became
relations with Cuba. part of everyday
While the revolution life, transport vir-
had achieved a great Pope John Paul II and Castro during his visit to Cuba tually came to a
deal in social terms, halt, food rations
the countrys economic problems had were reduced, and wages were low-
by no means been resolved. 1980 saw ered. In 1991 the Soviet Union also
the emigration of 125,000 Cubans, the withdrew its troops and technicians.
so-called marielitos named after the The economic crisis continued to
small harbour of Mariel, near Havana, worsen until 1994.
where they set off for Miami.
THE ECONOMIC RECOVERY
THE PERODO ESPECIAL At a time when more and more balse-
The dismantling of the Berlin Wall ros (refugees who travelled
in 1989 and the subsequent collapse on makeshift rafts, balsas) were flee-
of Communism in Eastern Europe ing to Miami, the first signs of change
deprived Cuba of economic partners; appeared. The government began
and Castro did not conceal his dislike to encourage foreign investment, pri-
of Gorbachevs perestroika policy. The vate enterprise was granted a certain
suspension of Soviet aid was a crip- degree of freedom, relations were
pling blow for the Cuban economy, resumed with Eastern European
and triggered a crisis that the govern- nations, and the use of the US dollar
ment faced by imposing a programme in transactions was legalized. In the
of austerity. In 1990 the island went meantime Castro emerged from isola-
through one of the most difficult tion and undertook official visits to a
phases in its history, the Perodo number of European countries. A sign
of the change was Castros visit to the
Vatican to meet Pope John Paul II in
1996, and the Popes visit to Cuba
two years later. By the late 1990s,
tourism had become the strongest sec-
tor of the economy. Today it is both
a resource, and a cause for concern,
in that the dual economy of the Cuban
peso and the convertible peso has cre-
ated its own particular social prob-
lems. Cuba today faces all kinds of
challenges, not least, how to change
Empty shelves in a shop during the crisis period without losing its identity.

2006 July: Castro is 2008 Hurricanes

1990 Beginning 1996 In November, taken seriously ill and Gustav and Ike hit
of the Perodo Castro visits Pope his brother, Ral, becomes Cuba and are the
Especial Rations coupon booklet John Paul II Acting President costliest storms in
in the Vatican recent history
1990 2000 2010
1991 The Soviet 1996 The Helms- 2000 1,774,000
Union withdraws Burton law tightens tourists visit 2008 Ral Castro
troops and technicians economic embargo Cuba in becomes President
one year of the Cuban
1998 Pope John Paul IIs visit to Cuba Council of State
(2125 January), a significant turning point Seaside tourism
 HAVANA
AREA BY AREA

HAVANA AT A GLANCE 5659

HABANA VIEJA 6077
CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO 7895
VEDADO AND PLAZA 96105
FURTHER AFIELD 106117
HAVANA STREET FINDER 118123
ENTERTAINMENT IN HAVANA 124127
56 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Havana at a Glance
Havana is a lively, colourful capital city, full
of bustle and entertainment, with some HAVANA
splendid architectural gems from the
Colonial period and beyond, and
numerous other sights. The city alone is
worth the trip to Cuba. Many attractions are
The crest of
concentrated in three quarters: Habana
Havana Vieja (Old Havana), Centro Habana and
Vedado. In the following pages Habana
Vieja, the Colonial centre within the old city walls, is
described rst, followed by Centro Habana and the
area known as Prado. The western part of the city is 0 kilometres 1

covered in the chapter called Vedado and Plaza. For 0 miles 1

map references for major sights in Havana, refer to the
Street Finder (see pp11823).

VEDADO AND PLAZA

(see pp96105)

Necrpolis de Coln (see pp1045)

is Havanas city cemetery as well
as a national monument. Many
famous people are buried here,
often in striking tombs, and the
site has become a place of
pilgrimage for many.

FURTHER AFIELD
(see pp10617)

Castillo del
Morro (see p110),
beyond the Mart Memorial (see p103) in
port canal, can Plaza de la Revolucin is one of
be seen from the symbols of Cuba. The white
0 kilometres 20 many parts of the marble statue of the great
old city. patriot forms a focal point for
0 miles 20
national celebrations.

Havana at sunset, with the dome of Capitolio rising up over the rooftops
 H AVA N A A T A G L A N C E 57

Catedral de San
Cristbal (see p64)
has a typically
Baroque faade, with
undulating lines,
convex surfaces and
columns which set off
the brightly coloured
rose window. The
church dominates
Plaza de la Catedral,
which is surrounded
by exquisite
17th18th-century
Colonial buildings.
Museo de la Revolucin (see
pp889) is housed in the former
presidential palace. In front stands
the tank used by Castro in the
1961 Battle of the Bay of Pigs.

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO

(see pp7895)

HABANA VIEJA
(see pp6077)

Palacio de los Capitanes

Generales (see pp7071) is
probably the best example
of 18th-century Baroque
architecture in Havana.
Its richly decorated marble
Capitolio (see pp823) is a entrance by the Italian
facsimile of Washington DCs sculptors Gaggini
own Capitol. The two bronzes and Tagliafichi was
that flank the entrance are the added in 1835.
work of the Italian sculptor
Angelo Zanelli.
58 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

The Malecn
No other place represents Havana better than the
Malecn, and no other place thrills tourists
and locals so much. This seafront promenade ."
- & $ /



/
winds for 7 km (4 miles) alongside the citys historic . "- & $

quarters, from the Colonial centre to the skyscrapers VEDADO AND PLAZA CENTRO
of Vedado, charting the history of Havana from past HABANA AND
PRADO
to present. The busy seafront boulevard is lined with
many attractive buildings, but it is the overall effect LOCATOR MAP
that is striking and the Bay of Havana looks truly See Street Finder pp12023.
spectacular at sunset. In addition, the Malecn
means tradition and religion to the people of the
city: offerings to the gods (see p23) are thrown
from the parapet into the sea.

1 The Caryatid Building

is one of the most important
structures in the first stretch
of the Malecn.Built in the
early 20th century and
recently restored, it was 2 The area between Prado
named after the Art Deco- and Calle Belascoan, which
style female figures that has been scrupulously restored, is
support the entablature known for its pastel buildings.
of the loggia. In the same part of the street,
at No 51, is the Ataud (the
Varied decoration coffin), a 1950s skyscraper
whose name derives from
the shape of its balconies.

Balconies with Neo-Moorish

decorative patterns

ARCHITECTURE
The Malecn is lined with
buildings whose pastel hues
have faded in the sun and
salty air, as well as early
20th-century structures,
often with two or three
storeys and a loggia on the
upper floor, in a mix of
different architectural styles.
Edificio Focsa

3 The Monument to the

Victims of the Maine Hotel
Nacional
was built in 1926 in
memory of the sailors who
died when the American
warship Maine exploded in
the Bay of Havana
in 1898 (see p45).
It stands in one of 4 Between Calle 23 and Calle G is the
the wide stretches stretch of the Malecn that borders the
of the avenue on Vedado quarter to the north.Dominated
the edge of by Havanas tallest buildings, this is the
Vedado. seafront of a modern metropolis.
 H AVA N A A T A G L A N C E 59

On stormy days the

waves break against
the rocks and crash
over the sea wall
onto the street.
Children love it when
this happens. Storms
are also a source of
inspiration for
followers of santera,
who view it as the
wrath of Yemay, the
sea goddess (see p23).

Fishing on the Malecn is a

popular pastime among the
locals. Others are playing
music, strolling, or simply
sitting on the low wall and
watching the horizon.

ATMOSPHERE
The Havana seafront is
especially magical at sunset,
when the colours of the
buildings are accentuated.
The Malecn is at its busiest
on Sundays, when the
Havanans who cannot
get to the Playas del
Este flock here.
Young people love to gather
along the Malecn, to meet
friends, socialize, swim,
sunbathe and drink rum.

The striking setting of the Malecn,

facing the sea and with the city behind
it, makes it a popular place for romantic
young couples. There is also the
occasional single person on the lookout
for female or male companionship.

A WALK BY THE OCEAN: THE HISTORY OF THE MALECN

On 4 November 1901, the US authorities with a municipal bandstand. Hotels and cafs
then occupying Cuba planned the Malecn were built near the old city, while bathing
as a tree-lined, pedestrian promenade to facilities were concentrated in Miramar. In
begin at the Castillo de la Punta. However 1919 the Malecn stretched as far as Calle
the strong wind and rough sea obliged the Belascoan, and in 1921 as far as Calle 23.
engineers to change It soon became a fast
their original project and link between the old
it was an American and modern cities
engineer named Mead, so much so that in the
and Frenchman Jean 1950s it was virtually
Forestier, who came up abandoned by
with a more practical pedestrians. Today,
plan. In 1902 the open despite the traffic, its
space in front of the original function has
Prado was completed The Malecn in the early 1900s been partly revived.
 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A 61

HABANA VIEJA
T he historic heart of Havana,
which was declared part of
the cultural heritage of
humanity by UNESCO in 1982,
is the largest Colonial centre in
Hispanic-Andalusian architecture,
vitalized by the tropical sun and lush
vegetation. Time seems to stand
still here but nonetheless the zone
does not give the impression of
Latin America. After two cen- being a museum. The restoration
turies of neglect, restoration programme is not limited to
work under the direction of monuments and major build-
Eusebio Leal Spengler, the histo- ings, but also includes old
riador de la ciudad (Superin- shops and ordinary houses. The
tendent of Cultural Heritage), aim is to ensure the revival of
is reviving the former splen- Statue of Columbus, both the beauty of Habana
dour of this district. Habana Palacio de los Vieja and its original vitality
Vi e j a i s c h a r a c t e r i z e d b y Capitanes Generales and everyday activities.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE KEY

Museums and Galleries Street-by-Street map pp623
Museo de Arte Colonial 2
Street-by-Street map pp667
Museo del Ron e
Museo Jos Mart i Tourist information

Ferry
Historic Buildings
Bodeguita del Medio 4
0 metres 300
Castillo de la Real Fuerza 5 "7
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Palacio de los Capitanes

"
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$
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5" 3-
Generales pp7071 8 $ / 0
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Seminario de San Carlos $6"
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El Templete 6
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GETTING THERE
$6#"

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The easiest way to reach this quarter is

0

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by taxi, or by cocotaxi (see p315), which

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and Calle Empedrado.

Colonial buildings in Plaza Vieja (see p76)

62 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Street-by-Street: Plaza de la Catedral

Dominated by the elegant profile of its church, Plaza de la
Catedral is one of the symbols of Habana Vieja. In 1592,
the Zanja Real, the citys first aqueduct (and the first
Spanish aqueduct in the New World), reached the square.
Water was channelled from the Almendares river, 11 km
(7 miles) away. The Zanja Real was built to provide water
to ships docking in the harbour, as well as to local
residents. A 16th-century plaque in the square marks the
spot where the Zanja Real was located. In the 18th century
the aristocratic buildings and present-day Cathedral were A woman in Colonial costume
built here.Plaza de la Catedral is an unmissable on the Cathedral steps
attraction for anyone visiting the historic
centre, with women in Colonial costume
who stroll under the arcades and read
fortunes, and a bar-restaurant where you
can relax in the shade and listen to music.

Former
entrance to
the seminary

Centro Wifredo Lam,

housed in an 18th-
century palazzo, CA
promotes contemporary LL
E
art with exhibitions SA
N
Seminario de San Carlos y San Ambrosio and lectures. IG
NA
The modern entrance of this 18th-century CI
O
building echoes the Baroque decorative
motifs of the Cathedral 3

Palacio de los Marqueses

de Aguas Claras was built in
the second half of the 18th
century. In the 1900s it housed
the Pars Restaurant and then
the offices of the Banco
Industrial. It is now a bar- DO
RA
restaurant, El Patio, PE
D
with tables in the inner EM
courtyard as well as in the L LE
CA
picturesque square.

KEY
Suggested route
Casa de la Condesa
de la Reunin, a
STAR SIGHTS 19th-century building
surrounding a splendid
. Catedral de San courtyard, is the head-
Cristbal quarters of the Alejo
Carpentier Foundation.
. Museo de Arte This well-known 20th- . Bodeguita del Medio
Colonial century Cuban writer This restaurant is legendary
(see p29) set his novel thanks to the writer Ernest
. Bodeguita del Medio Siglo de las Luces here. Hemingway, who came here
to drink mojitos 4
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2526 and pp2769
 H A B A N A V I E J A 63

HABANA
CENTRO HABANA VIEJA
AND PRADO

LOCATOR MAP
See Street Finder, pp12023,
map 4

. Catedral de San Cristbal

The Baroque faade of this church, declared Palacio del Conde Lombillo (1746)
a national monument, is considered one of is now home to the offices of the
the most beautiful in the Americas 1 Historiador De La Habana and hosts
temporary exhibitions of photographs
CALLE
TACN and lithographs.

O
AD
DR
PE
EM
LE
CA

L
CA
LL
E
M
ER
CA
DE
RE
S

Palacio de los Marqueses

de Arcos, built in the 1700s,
houses an art gallery where
LA
handicrafts and prints are
DE on sale. The building was
A R AL
AZ E D once the main post office
PL T Plaza
CA de Armas and the original letter box is still
(see visible on the outside wall.
pp667)

0 metres 40

0 yards 40

RO
OR
CA

CH
LL

L
DE
E
SA

N
J
N

E
LL
IG

CA
NA
CI
O

The Taller Experimental de

. Museo de Arte Colonial
Grfica (1962) holds theoretical Dating from 1720, this is one of the
and practical courses in graphic citys finest examples of early Colonial
art for Cubans and foreigners, and domestic architecture. It houses an exhi-
houses a Gallery of Engravings. bition of Colonial furniture and objects 2
64 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Catedral de
San Cristbal 1
Calle Empedrado 156. Map 4 E2.
Tel (7) 8617 771. # 10am4:30pm
MonFri, 10am2pm Sat, 911:30am
Sun. 5 6pm MonFri, 3pm Sat,
10:30am Sun. 6

Construction of the
Catedral de San Cristbal
(Cathedral of St Christopher)
began in 1748 under the
supervision of Jesuit priests,
but after they were expelled
from Cuba following conflict
with the Spanish crown, the The austere nave of Catedral de San Cristbal
church was finished by
Franciscans in 1777. It became Baroque faade is grandiose, Frenchman Jean Baptiste
a cathedral after the collapse with two large, asymmetrical Vermay, who founded the San
of the old Parroquial Mayor bell towers and an abundance Alejandro Fine Arts Academy
(see p70), which was caused of niches and columns, which (see p26). The high altar was
by the explosion of a ship in Cuban author created by Italian artist
the nearby port. Alejo Carpentier Giuseppe Bianchini
In 1789, present-day San described as in the 1800s. To the
Cristbal was consecrated as music turned right is a huge
Catedral de la Virgen Mara de into stone. wooden statue of
la Inmaculada Concepcin, In comparison, St Christopher,
and the small square where the Neo-Classical carved by the Seville
it stands gained its current interior is rather sculptor Martn de
status. In 1796 it was renamed disappointing. Large Andjar in 1636.
Catedral de San Cristbal de piers separate the nave The legs are out of
La Habana, because, from the aisles, which proportion with the
according to popular belief, have eight chapels. trunk, as they were cut
from that year until 1898 it The largest one is the in order to allow the
housed the relics of Chris- Sagrario chapel; the statue to pass through
topher Columbus himself. oldest (1755), designed the portal.
A plaque to the left of the by Lorenzo Camacho, On 16 November,
pulpit tells the same story, is dedicated to the Statue of the saints feast day, a
though there is no official Madonna of Loreto St Christopher solemn mass is held
historical record. and contains quaint, here, during which
The architecture is in tiny houses used as ex votos. the faithful, who have to stay
keeping with other Jesuit The three frescoes behind quiet during the service, file
churches throughout the the high altar are by Giuseppe past the statue to silently ask
world: a Latin cross layout, Perovani, while the original for his blessing. This blessing
chapels on the sides and to wooden and plaster ceiling, is given as long as worshippers
the rear, the nave higher than demolished and then rebuilt do not utter a word until they
the side aisles. The Cuban in 194652, was the work of have left the church.

POPE JOHN PAUL IIS VISIT

Pope John Paul II visited Cuba from 2125
January 1998 (see p53). This carefully planned
event was of great historical significance to Cuba
and was greeted with enthusiasm not only by
Catholics, but by virtually the entire population.
The Cuban government had shown signs of
favouring dialogue with the Church and greater
religious tolerance in the 1990s. The Popes visit
and the outdoor masses were broadcast on
television and the government also officially
recognized Christmas Day as a holiday. On 25
January the Celebration of the Word was held
in the Cathedral, during which the Pope met
Cuban priests. Journalists from all over the world
attended, and the Pope also held an audience
Pope John Paul II in front of the Cathedral with the faithful in Plaza de la Revolucin.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2526 and pp2769
 H A B A N A V I E J A 65

Museo de Arte lavishly decorated inner

stairway leading to the first
Colonial 2 floor has trapezoidal motifs
Calle San Ignacio 61. Map 4 E2. Tel
instead of the more common
(7) 8626 440. # 9am5:30pm Tue
arch, and fine black mahogany
Sat, 9amnoon Sun. 10 Oct. &
banisters. The seminary is still
8 6 (with charge).
functioning, but is open to
the public for visits.
This 18th-century mansion,
built by Don Luis Chacn, Bodeguita
governor of Cuba, has been
the home of a fascinating del Medio 4
museum dedicated to Colonial
Calle Empedrado 207. Map 4 E2.
art since 1969. The building is
Tel (7) 8671 374. # noon12:30am
a fine example of a Colonial
daily. 6
residence and is constructed
around an elegant courtyard.
The 12 rooms on the ground Standing exactly at the
floor and first floor contain Colonial furniture in the Museo de halfway point in a typical
furniture, chandeliers, Arte Colonial small street in old Havana,
porcelain and other decorative a few steps away from the
pieces from various 18th19th- and intellectuals studied here. Cathedral, the Bodeguita del
century middle-class and One of them was Padre Flix Medio (literally, little shop in
aristocratic houses in Havana, Varela (17881853), who laid the middle) has become a
in which European, Creole down the theoretical bases big attraction.
and Colonial traditions are for the Cuban war of indepen- The place was founded in
combined. Besides a remarka- dence (see p28). 1942 as a food shop. A bar
ble collection of furniture Besides the old portal on serving alcoholic drinks was
made of tropical wood, Calle San Ignacio, built in added, and the place became
the museum has an the Churrigueresque a haunt for intellectuals, artists
exceptional collec- style which was and politicians. Today it is
tion of stained common in Spain no longer a shop but a good
glass windows and her colo- restaurant offering typical
(mediopunto), nies in this Creole dishes, with a bustling
typical of period, there bar serving shots of rum and
Cubas Creole Museo de Arte Colonial: an arched is also anoth- Cuban cocktails. The walls are
craftsmen (see mediopunto window er entrance in plastered with photographs,
p25). 20th-century drawings, graffiti and visitors
There is also a 13th room Neo-Baroque style on the autographs, including those
where exhibitions of contem- Avenida del Puerto. of famous patrons such as the
porary artand crafts inspired The large central courtyard singer Nat King Cole, poets
by Colonial art are held. Dur- is the only one of its kind in Pablo Neruda and Nicols
ing the week the museum Cuba: it has galleries on three Guilln, and the writers
organizes tours for school- levels, the first with simple Gabriel Garca Marquez, Alejo
children and leisure activities columns, the second with Carpentier (see p29), and
for the elderly in the area. double columns, and the third Ernest Hemingway, who
A small adjacent theatre, with plain wooden piers. The was a regular here.
which has its own entrance on
Calle San Ignacio, puts on a
busy and wide-ranging
programme of concerts and
plays at weekends.

Seminario de
San Carlos y
San Ambrosio 3
Calle San Ignacio 5. Map 4 E2. Tel (7)
8626 989. # 8am5pm MonFri.
1 Jan, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec. 6

This building was erected

by the Jesuits in the mid-
18th century to house a
seminary first founded in
1689. Famous Cuban patriots The Bodeguita del Medio with its memento-covered walls
66 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Street-by-Street: Around Plaza de Armas

The elegant, spacious Plaza de Armas is lined with
Baroque buildings, giving it a delightful Colonial
atmosphere. The space overflows with tropical
vegetation and is enlivened by the stalls of the second-
hand book market (see p69). The plaza was built in the
1600s to replace the old Plaza Mayor, the core of
Havanas religious, administrative and military life, and
up to the mid-1700s it was used for military exercises.
After its transformation in 17711838, it became a
favourite with rich Havana citizens and popular as an
area for carriage rides. Careful restoration work has
been carried out over recent years, and the square Palacio del
now attracts throngs of visitors and locals, many of Segundo Cabo
whom simply gather here to sit and relax. (1776), the former
residence of the
Spanish lieutenant
governor, is now the
. Palacio de los home of the Cuban
Capitanes Generales Book Institute.

CAL
This fine Baroque

LE
palace, now the Museo

TAC
Plaza de la
de la Ciudad, was

N
Catedral
built for Cubas old (see
Colonial rulers. A pp623)
statue of Columbus
stands in the
courtyard, beneath
towering royal Y
R EILL
palms 8 LE O
CAL
CAL

STAR SIGHTS
LE

Hotel Ambos
ME

Mundos
. Castillo
RCA

de la Real Fuerza
DER

BIS PO
LE O
ES

. El Templete Former CAL

Ministerio
. Palacio de los de Educacin

Capitanes Generales
Farmacia
. Calle Obispo Taquechel

. Calle Obispo
Like an
open-air museum
of Colonial
architecture, this PA
RA
street is lined with E OB
CALL
buildings of interest
dating from the Casa de la Obra Pa
16th19th centuries, This large 17th-century mansion
including old is well-known for its elaborate
groceries and Baroque doorway, which was
historic shops 9 reputedly sculpted in Spain 0
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2526 and pp2769
 H A B A N A V I E J A 67

. Castillo de la
Real Fuerza
This 16th-century castle,
with its broad moat and
characteristic angular
HABANA
ramparts, is the oldest CENTRO HABANA VIEJA
military construction in AND PRADO

Havana. A copy of the

Giraldilla, the symbol
of the city, stands on LOCATOR MAP
one of its towers 5 See Street Finder, pp12023,
map 4
AV

Calle Enna is Havanas narrowest and

EN

shortest street. It was named after a

ID
A

general active in the Colonial period.

CA
RL
OS

M
.
DE
C
SP
ED
ES
(A
VE
NI
DA
DE
Y
ILL

L
PU
RE

ER
O

TO
E

)
LL
CA

. El Templete
PLA
ZA This Neo-Classical building,
S
RMA shaded by a majestic ceiba
DE A
tree, evokes memories of the
citys foundation 6
CA
LLE
BA
RA
TIL
LO
CAL

S TIZ
LE

LE J
CAL
OFI
CIO
S

Hotel Santa Isabel is in

the former home of the Conde
de Santovenia, built between
the 18th and 19th centuries
and recently opened after
Calle Oficios lengthy restoration (see p253).
La Casa de This perfectly restored
los Arabes Colonial street houses 0 metres 60
housed the a number of shops 0 yards 60
citys first
school in
and museums,
the 17th including a
vintage car KEY
century.
museum 7 Suggested route
68 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

LA GIRALDILLA
There are various theories as
to the meaning of the bronze
weathervane sculpted by
Gernimo Martn Pinzn in
163034 and modelled on the
one crowning La Giralda in
Seville. Some people say it is
the symbol of victory, others
think it is the personification
Stairway leading to the battle- of Seville, the final destination
ments, Castillo de la Real Fuerza of ships going to Europe.
But others say the statue The tower with its copy of the
represents Ins de Bobadilla, 17th-century weathervane
Castillo de la wife of the Spanish governor
Real Fuerza 5 Hernando de Soto. According to legend, she spent hours
gazing at the horizon, waiting for her husband to return
Calle Tacn e/ Calle Obispo y OReilly. from his exploration of Florida and other parts of the US (in
Map 4 F2. Tel (7) 8616 130. vain, since he died on the banks of the Mississippi). This is
Closed for restoration until late said to be the reason why the statue was placed on the
2008. & 8 6 (with charge). highest point of the fortress dominating the port entrance.

This fortress (castillo) was

built in 155877 to protect the treasures brought from El Templete 6
city from pirate attacks, America and en route to
following a raid by the French Spain. In 1634, a weathervane Plaza de Armas, Calle Baratillo y
buccaneer Jacques de Sores known as La Giraldilla was OReilly. Map 4 F2. # 9am7pm
in 1555, in which the original placed on the lookout tower, daily. 1 Jan, 1 May. & 8
fort was destroyed and which soon became the 6 (with charge).
Havana devastated symbol of Havana.
(see p40). But The original is now Small and austere, this
despite the moat on display in the Neo-Classical building,
surrounding it and its Museo de la Ciudad resembling a temple, stands
thick walls, the castle (see pp7071) and a on the spot where, according
soon proved to be copy has been to legend, the city of San
quite inadequate as Painted pottery, placed on the tower. Cristbal de La Habana was
a defensive bulwark Ceramics Museum Today, the founded in 1599. Here, under
because of its poor Castillo houses the a leafy ceiba a tropical tree
strategic position, too far Museo Nacional de la considered sacred by all the
inside the bay. The castle Cermica Cubana, which natives of Central America
then became the residence of houses a collection of the first meeting of the local
governors, military comman- ceramics, sculpture, mosaics government (the cabildo) and
ders and leading figures, as and painted panels by the first mass reputedly took
well as a safe place to store modern and contemporary place. A majestic ceiba tree
Cuban artists. still stands in front of El

View of the Castillo de la Real Fuerza: the drawbridge and entrance, the moat, and the Giraldilla tower (left)

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2526 and pp2769
 H A B A N A V I E J A 69

Templete, although it is not of coins, banknotes, old

the original. Next to it is lottery tickets, medals,
the Columna de Cacigal, a and Cuban and foreign
column named after the bank documents.
governor who ordered its At No. 16 is the 18th-
construction in 1754. century Casa de los
El Templete, completed in Arabes, with displays
1828, was modelled after a of 18th- and 19th-
monument in the Basque century Hispanic-Arab
town of Guernica in northern bronzes, fabrics, rugs
Spain. Inside are three and furniture: the
enormous canvases by Jean- largest ethnographic
Baptiste Vermay (see p26), display of Arab objects
depicting scenes from the in Cuba, evidence of
history of Havana: the local the presence of an old
authorities inaugurating the Lebanese, Syrian and
building, the first cabildo, and Palestinian colony on
the first mass, which was the island. The building
celebrated by Bishop Juan also houses the only
Jos Daz Espada y Land, mosque in Cuba and an
who blessed the city as Andalusian restaurant.
part of the ceremony. The third interesting The Casa de los Arabes patio, with narrow
and curious museum on balconies and a Moorish-style fountain
the street is the Museo
del Auto Antiguo, featuring
E Casa de los Arabes
vintage Cadillacs, Rolls-Royces, Tel (7) 8615 868.
Packards and Fords dating # 9am5pm MonSat, 9amnoon
from the 1930s, as well as the Sun. & 6
Bel-Air Chevrolet that once
E Museo del Auto
belonged to Che Guevara.
Antiguo
E Museo Numismtico Tel (7) 863 9942.
Tel (7) 8615 811. # 9:15am # 9am4:30pm TueSat,
5:15pm TueSat; 9am1pm Sun. 9am12:30pm Sun. Mon.
1 Jan, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec. & 8 & 8 6 (with charge).

THE MARKET IN PLAZA DE ARMAS

The First Mass, one of Vermays
paintings in the Templete Since the early 1990s, when small businesses were officially
authorized, this plaza (see p67) has been filled with
colourful stalls. In the streets that surround it is a market
Calle Oficios 7 with second-hand books and periodicals of every kind,
magazines published in the 1940s and 1950s, newspapers
Map 4 F2. from the time of the revolution and Cuban classics now out
of print. Next to the San Carlos y San Ambrosio Seminary
This street was originally a and behind the Castillo is the tourist handicrafts market,
link between the military where skilfully made objects created from papier mch
centre of Plaza de Armas and and glass take their place alongside the more traditional
the commercial and harbour and familiar ceramics and carved wood.
activities centred around Plaza
San Francisco. Together with
Calle Obispo, this is one of
the most atmospheric streets
in Old Havana and should be
toured slowly (dont miss the
many interesting faades).
Approaching from Plaza
de Armas, there are three
buildings well worth visiting.
The first, at No. 8, is the home
of the Museo Numismtico,
built in the late 1700s and for
a long time the premises of
the Monte de Piedad bank.
According to legend it was
inhabited by the ghost of a
Colonial lady dressed in Second-hand books at the daily market in the Plaza de Armas
white. It has a rich collection
70 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Palacio de los Capitanes Generales 8

Construction of this palace, a

splendid example of Cuban Baroque
(see p24), took from 1776 to 1791. It
was commissioned by the governor
Felipe Fondesviela and designed by
Early 19th-century
marble bathtub in
engineer Antonio Fernndez de Trebejos
the bathroom y Zaldvar. The Palacio originally housed
the Chapter House and the governors
residence as well as a house of detention, which until Hall of Heroic Cuba
1834 occupied the west wing. The seat of the Cuban This hall contains objects
Republic in 1902, the building became the Museo de from the independence
la Ciudad (City Museum) in 1967, but the original wars, including the
structure of the sumptuous residence and political centre flag of Cspedes
has not been altered. The complex as a whole offers an (see p42).
overview of the history of Havana, from the remains of
the old Espada cemetery and Parroquial Mayor church to
mementoes from the wars of independence.

The Cabildo Maces

Considered the first
major example of
Cuban goldsmithery,
these maces, by Juan
Daz (1631), are on
display in the Sala del
Cabildo, the room where
local town council
meetings were held in
the governors palace.

. Cenotaph from the

Parroquial Mayor Church
In 1557 the oldest Colonial
monument in Cuba was placed in
the old Parroquial Mayor (parish
church), which then stood on this
site. It commemorates the death of
a young woman who was killed by
accident while she was praying.

STAR SIGHTS
. La Giraldilla
. Cenotaph from the At the foot of the steps leading
Parroquial Mayor to the mezzanine is the oldest
Church bronze statue in Cuba. It was
commissioned by the governor,
. La Giraldilla
Juan Bitrin de Viamonte, for the
. Saln de los Espejos lookout tower of the Castillo de la
Real Fuerza (see p68).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2526 and pp2769
 H A B A N A V I E J A 71

Gallery VISITORS CHECKLIST

The monumental gallery,
which overlooks a large, Plaza de Armas, Calle Tacn
leafy courtyard, features e/ OReilly y Obispo.
a collection of busts of Map 4 E2. Tel (7) 8615 779,
8615 062. # 9am7pm daily.
illustrious figures, the
1 Jan, 1 May.
work of the Italian & 8 6 (with charge) =
sculptor Luigi Pietrasanta
in the early 1900s.

The White Room

has on display the
escutcheons of Bourbon
Spain and the city of
Havana, and is decorated
with 18th- and 19th-
century Meissen
porcelain.

Throne Room
Modelled on the large salon
in the Palacio de Oriente
in Madrid, this room
was originally built for
a Spanish monarch, but
never used. It was restored
in 1893 for the visit of
Princess Eulalia of
Bourbon.

The stained-glass
windows brighten the grey
of the piedra marina, a
limestone encrusted
with coral fossils.

The Espada Cemetery Room

has relics from the first city
cemetery, founded by Bishop
Juan Jos Daz de Espada in 1806.
They include the tomb of the
French artist Vermay (see p26).

. Saln de
los Espejos
The end of Spanish
rule was proclaimed
in 1899 in this light-
filled salon with its
19th-century Venetian
The portico
pavement, made of
mirrors, and in 1902
china pelona, a hard, the first president of
shiny stone, dates the Republic of Cuba
from the 18th century. took office here.
 72 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

shop window of the Casa del

Agua la Tinaja, which for
centuries has been selling well
water purified by very old but
still quite efficient ceramic
filters. Next door, La Mina
restaurant serves food and
cocktails outdoors and
brightens up the whole block
with live traditional music
(see p276).
Among the most fascinating Wooden azul avana blue doors of
shops in this part of the street the Colonial house at No. 117
is the old pharmacy called
Taquechel, which sells Bernaza square, there are
cosmetics and natural and more modern shops offering
homeopathic products, all everything from embroidered
Casa del Agua la Tinaja, vendor of created and produced in shirts to books.
purified well water Cuba. Quaint shelves boast a Next is El Floridita restau-
pretty collection of 17th- and rant (see p277), known as the
Calle Obispo 9 18th-century glass and Italian cradle of the daiquiri. It was
majolica jars, as well as here, in the 1930s, that bar-
Map 4 E2. alembics and antique man Constante (his
pharmaceutical and real name was Con-
The liveliest and most medical objects. stantino Ribalaigua)
characteristic street in Old No. 11719 is the perfected the original
Havana is like a long, narrow oldest house in cocktail mixed by
bridge linking the two Havana (see p24). Pagluchi (see p275).
architectural souls of the One of the major The new-style
historic centre, the sights in the street is daiquiri, a blend of
Colonial and the Art the restored Hotel An old letter box white rum, lemon,
Nouveau-eclectic. At Ambos Mundos at No.115 sugar and a few
one end is the Plaza (see p253). This drops of maraschino
de Armas, the Baroque charming, eclectically and ice, was devised with the
heart of the old city, decorated hotel is rich in help of Ernest Hemingway,
while at the other is literary memories. The writer who was a regular. Today, in
Avenida de Blgica and Ernest Hemingway stayed El Floriditas luxurious interior,
the famous El Floridita here for long periods from besides Constantes classic
restaurant, which mark 1932 to 1939 (see p114), and cocktails you can feast on
the start of the more began writing his famous lobster and shellfish in the
modern district. The novel For Whom the Bell Tolls company of a bust of the great
street is called Calle in room 511. novelist. It was sculpted by
Obispo because in the Towards the end of the Fernando Boada while
past the city bishop street, near the small Obispo y Hemingway was still alive.
Old filter, (obispo) resided in
Taquechel the building situated
pharmacy on the corner of
Calle Oficios.
Thanks to the recent
restoration work promoted
by the Oficina del Historiador
de la Ciudad, headed by the
charismatic Eusebio Leal
Spengler, aimed at salvaging
the best buildings in the old
area, Calle Obispo has
retained the elegance, vivacity
and colours of the Colonial
period. Newly installed street
lighting makes for enjoyable
evening strolling.
A plaque on the left-hand
side of the Palacio de los
Capitanes Generales bears
quotations made by the great
Cuban patriot Jos Mart
concerning Garibaldis stop at
Havana. Opposite is the small Typical majolica jars on the shelves of the former Sala Museo

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2526 and pp2769
 H A B A N A V I E J A 73

The upper gallery of the Casa de la Obra Pa, with its frescoed walls and polished wood balustrade

Casa de la Many colourful legends Casa de Africa q

survive concerning the
Obra Pa 0 buildings past. It was said Calle Obrapa 157 e/ San Ignacio y
Calle Obrapa 158 esq. Mercaderes.
that incredible treasures were Mercaderes. Map 4 E2. Tel (7) 8615
hidden in its walls and that 798. # 9am5pm TueSat, 9am
Map 4 E2. Tel (7) 8613 097.
wailing and weeping could be 1pm Sun. 1 Jan, 26 Jul, 10 Oct,
# 9am5pm TueSat, 9:30am
heard from one of the rooms 25 Dec. & 8 6 (with charge).
12:30pm Sun. 1 Jan,
1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct. 8 6
on the upper floor.
At the corner of Calle Opposite the Casa de la
Calle Obrapa (literally Charity Obrapa and Calle Mercaderes Obra Pa is a 17th-century
Street) was named after this is the Casa de Mxico, a building that was rebuilt in
mansion, whose own name cultural centre that shows the 1887 to accommodate a family
commemorates the pious close links between Mexico of plantation owners on the
actions of Martn and Cuba. It has a upper floor and a tobacco
Calvo de la Puerta y library with more factory, worked by slaves,
Arrieta, a wealthy than 5,000 books on the ground floor. It is
Spanish nobleman and a museum appropriate that the building is
who took up resi- displaying now a museum containing
dence here in the handmade glass, more than 2,000 objects linked
mid-17th century. Majolica tile street sign silver, fabric, to the history of sub-Saharan
Every year he gave for Calle de la Obrapa terracotta and Africa and the various ethnic
a generous dowry wooden objects. groups that were taken to
to five orphan girls for them to Lastly, on the other side of Cuba on slave ships. Many of
use to get married or enter a the street is the Casa de these items belonged to the
convent. A century later the Guayasamn, named after the ethnographer Fernando Ortz,
residence became the home of Ecuadorean painter whose a specialist in the African roots
Don Agustn de Crdenas, works are on display. of Cuban culture. Together
who was given the title of with the section
marquis for taking Spains side on religion, which
in 1762 during the British includes objects
occupation of Havana (see from the various
p40). In 1793 new decoration, Afro-Cuban cults
and the elaborate arch leading (see pp223),
to the loggia on the first floor, there are
were added to the building. instruments of
La Casa de la Obra Pa is torture used on the
regarded as one of the jewels slaves, bat drums,
of Cuban Baroque archi- and paintings of
tecture, and its luxurious plantation life.
salons were used for young The museum
noblewomen to make their also has a well-
debut in society. Palo Monte objects (see p23), Casa de Africa stocked library.
74 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Plaza de San tower that affords a lovely view

of the city. Originally a statue
Francisco w of St Francis of Assisi stood
Map 4 F2. Baslica Menor de San
on the top, but it was badly
Francisco de Ass Tel (7) 862 9683.
damaged by a cyclone in 1846.
# 9:30am5:30pm MonFri,
In the cloister and rooms
11:30am7pm Sat. 1 Jan, 1 May,
of the adjacent monastery,
26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec. & 8 6
which dates back to 1739, is
a museum of holy art with
Bordering the port, this 18th19th-century missals, a
picturesque square has an collection of votive objects
Andalusian character and made of precious metals, and
evokes images of a distant 16th18th-century majolica
age when galleons loaded and ceramics.
with gold and other cargo set
sail for Spain. In the middle
of the square is the Fuente Museo del Ron e
de los Leones, modelled on The Fuente de los Leones,
the famous fountain in the Plaza de San Francisco Calle San Pedro 262. Map 4 F3.
Alhambra in Granada. This Tel (7) 862 3832, 861 8051.
work by the Italian sculptor 158091 as the home of the # 9am5pm MonThu, 9am4pm
Giuseppe Gaggini was Franciscan community and FriSun. & 8 6 = -
donated in 1836 by the fiscal partly rebuilt in the 1700s. The www.havanaclubfoundation.com
superintendent, Don Claudio three-aisle interior has a Latin
Martnez de Pinillos, the cross layout and contains some The distilleries of Havana Club,
Count of Villanueva, and for paintings by unknown 18th- the most famous brand of
many years it supplied the century Cuban artists and a Cuban rum, are open to the
ships docked here with wooden statue of St Francis public, allowing visitors to
drinking water. dating from the same period, see the production process of
The original commercial again by an unknown artist. the spirit described as the
nature of the area can be The basilica also has the cheerful child of sugar
seen in two buildings: the remains of major cane by Cuban
Aduana General de la Repb- Havana citizens, writer and journalist
lica (the old customs house), from the Marquis Fernando Campo-
built in 1914, and the Lonja Gonzlez, who died amor, a friend of
del Comercio (the former during the British Ernest Hemingway.
stock exchange, 1908), with a siege of 1762, to Jos The organized tours
dome crowned by a statue of Martn Flix de Arrate, Logo of the begin in the Colonial
Mercury, god of commerce. an illustrious historian of Havana Club courtyard of the
Restored in 1995, this building the Colonial period. Foundation Havana Club
houses the offices of some of Because of its excep- Foundation. After
the top foreign firms now tional acoustics, this church watching a brief videotape on
operating in Cuba. was recently converted into a the history of sugar cane and
The most important building concert hall for choral and its cultivation, visitors are
in the square, however, is the chamber music (see p125). taken to see the fermentation,
Baslica Menor de San Attached to the church is a distillation (in a room with
Francisco de Ass, built in large, 42-m (138-ft) high bell old alembics), filtration, ageing,
blending and bottling
processes. In the
central hall, heavy
with the intense smell
of fermented molasses,
is a model of an
ingenio (see pp423),
or sugar plantation,
which also includes a
miniature steam train.
Tours end in a bar
where visitors can
relax and sample the
three year-old rum.
The bar, which also
serves excellent cock-
tails and often has live
music, is open from
9am to midnight. The
shop sells rum, glass-
Interior of the basilica of San Francisco, now used for chamber music concerts ware and souvenirs.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2526 and pp2769
 H A B A N A V I E J A 75

Cuban Rum
The history of rum dates back to the offering that is frequently given to the
e a r l y 1 5 0 0 s , w h e n a n i m p u r e gods of santera. Rum-making begins
distillate was first obtained from sugar with the main by-product of sugar,
cane. With the arrival of the sticky amber paste
Facundo Bacard (see called molasses, which
p228), a new technique is diluted with water
of distillation was Seal of guarantee of Cuban rum and fermented using
introduced, and Cuban special yeasts. The
rum (ron) went on to enjoy inter- must thus obtained is then distilled
national success. Rum is part of and filtered to produce an eau de vie.
everyday life in Cuba: a constant Purified water and pure alcohol are
companion at parties and festivities, the then added 18 months later to produce
main ingredient in cocktails, and an Silver Dry, a young, clear rum.

Distillation, which used to The mezcla process

be effected by means of is carried out under
alembics (left), is now the expert guidance
carried out by using a of a master taster
series of connected tubes and consists of
in which the molasses mixing the new rum
vapour is channelled with other rums.
until it condenses Once blended, the
and is transformed rum rests for a few
into a colourless weeks in special vats
liquid that is then until the right
aged in special balance of taste and
barrels. aroma is obtained.

Special oak barrels are used

for the ageing process which
takes at least three years. With
time the rum becomes richer
in colour and more full-bodied,
like the seven-year aejo. The
temperature, humidity level
and ventilation in the ageing
cellars are carefully regulated.

THE TYPES OF RUM

Besides Silver Dry, which is normally
used in cocktails, the market offers rum
aged for three years (carta blanca),
five years (carta oro), and seven years
(aejo), or even longer. Old rum, which
is the most highly prized, should be
drunk neat and at room temperature,
while carta blanca, which is the most
commonly seen, can be used in many
ways and is often drunk with ice.
There are assorted brands of Cuban
rum, not all of which are internationally
known like Havana Club. Silver Dry Carta Blanca Carta Oro Aejo
76 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Convento de
Santa Clara t
Calle Cuba 610 e/ Sol y Luz. Map
4 E3. Tel (7) 8613 335. # 8:30am
5pm MonFri. 1 Jan, 26 Jul, 10 Oct,
25 Dec. & 8 = 6 (with charge).
The Convent of Santa Clara
is one of the oldest and
most typical Colonial religious
buildings in the New World.
The convent occupies a
considerable area of Habana
Vieja and was founded in
1644 by Sister Catalina de
The cloister of the convent of Santa Clara, filled with tropical plants Mendoza from Cartagena de
Indias, to offer refuge for the
Plaza Vieja r became a French citizen and wealthy girls of the city.
also wrote a travel book about The plain exterior, with its
Map 4 E3. Cuba. The house is now simple windows, makes a
used for art exhibitions. The striking contrast to the
This square was laid out in spacious salon on the first interior, which has a
1559 and was originally floor, with its fine large stained- colonnaded courtyard with
called Plaza Nueva (New glass windows or mediopuntos elaborate inlaid wooden
Square). In the 19th century, (see p25), is well worth a visit. ceilings. Two of the three
after the widening of Plaza de Next door are two 17th- original cloisters have stood
Armas and the creation of century buildings, and at the the test of time. In one of
other urban areas, it lost its corner of Calle Muralla and them, overflowing with
role as the citys main public Calle Inquisidor is the eye- luxuriant tropical vegetation
square and was renamed catching Art Nouveau Hotel- and with an 18th-century
Plaza Vieja. From the 1950s to Palacio Cueto. It was first built fountain known as The
the 90s it was a car park, but it as a hotel in 1908, then later Samaritan, is the Centro
has now been restored to its turned into apartments and Nacional de Conservacin,
original appearance. is now being restored as a Restauracin y Museologa, a
The plaza is surrounded five-star hotel. body which coordinates the
by arcades and a number of A fountain designed in 1796 preservation and restoration
historic buildings from four stands in the middle of the of Cubas historic architecture.
different centuries. The most square. It bears the crest of the The second cloister is now
important of these is the Casa city and of the Count of Santa part of a charming hotel
del Conde Jaruco, built in Clara, then the citys governor. decorated in Colonial style.
173337. This was the home Nearby are two cultural Parts of the building are open
of the Countess de Merlin, a institutions: a centre for visual to the public but it cannot be
Cuban romantic novelist who arts and a photo gallery. seen in its entirety.

Faade of Casa del Conde Jaruco, with typical mediopunto stained-glass windows on the first floor
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2526 and pp2769
 H A B A N A V I E J A 77

protector of mankind, who

imparts wisdom and harmony.
On the Catholic saints feast
day, 24 September, santera
followers come dressed all in
white the colour associated
with Obbatal.

Museo Jos Mart i

Calle Leonor Perez 314, esq. Egido.
Map 4 E4. Tel (7) 8613 778,
8615 095. # 9:30am5pm TueSat,
9am1pm Sun. 1 Jan, 1 May, 26
Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec. & 8 6 (with
charge). www.cult.cu/patrim/cnpc/
museos/marti

This modest 19th-century

building in the Paula quarter
became a national monument
thanks to the special historic
importance attached to Jos
Mart (see p45), who is the
object of great patriotic vener-
ation. The author and national
hero, who died in combat on
19 May 1895 during the wars
The nave of the Iglesia de la Merced, illuminated by small light bulbs of independence against the
Spanish, was born here in
in the city, in which the 1853. After his death, his
Iglesia del Espritu yerberos, or herbalist-healers, mother Leonor Prez lived in
Santo y sell votive objects and various the building, and when she
herbs that are used mostly in died it was rented to raise
Calle Cuba esq. Acosta. Map 4 E3. the local Afro-Cuban religious money to bring up her grand-
Tel (7) 862 3410. # 36pm Mon rites (see pp223). children. In 1901 it was pur-
Sat, 9amnoon Sun. ^ 5 6pm chased by the municipality
Thu, 5pm Sat, 10:30am Sun. after city-wide fund raising, and
Iglesia de was turned into a museum in
The Church of the Holy Ghost 1925, but government funding
(Espritu Santo) is of historical Nuestra Seora only became sufficient with the
importance as one of the oldest de la Merced u advent of Castro.
Catholic churches in Havana. The house has been restored
It was built in 1637 by some Calle Cuba 806. Map 4 E3. beautifully, and visitors can
freed African slaves. Thanks to Tel (7) 8638 873. # 8amnoon, view furniture, paintings, and
a papal bull and a royal decree 35pm daily. 6 5 9am daily. first editions of the writers
from Carlos III, in 1772 it works. There are also objects
acquired the exclusive right Construction of this of great historic
to grant asylum to all those church began in value such as the
persecuted by the authorities. 1637 but ended only inkpot and ivory
From an architectural in the following pen used by
standpoint, the buildings century, while the Generalissimo
most striking feature is the lavish decoration in Mximo Gmez and
tower, which is almost as tall the interior dates Jos Mart to sign
as the one on the Basilica of from the 19th the Manifesto de
San Francisco (see p74). The century. The church Montecristi, which
church was radically rebuilt in is popular among officially marked the
the 19th century, retaining its those who follow beginning of the
Hispanic-Arab look only in santera, or local Portrait of Jos Mart war against Spain.
the characteristic double pitch Afro-Cuban religion by Herman Norman Everyday objects
roof. The main chapel, with (see pp223). in the museum are also on display,
its stone vaulting and a crypt, According to the such as the penknife
was built by Bishop Jernimo beliefs of this cult, Our Lady Mart had in his pocket when
Valds in 170629. of the Merced corresponds to he died, and the album with
The area around the church a Yoruba divinity known as dedications and signatures
plays host to one of the most Obbatal, principal figure from friends during his wed-
picturesque religious markets among the gods and the ding to Carmen Zayas-Bazn.
 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A 79

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO

C entro Habana has the air of

an impoverished aristocrat
a noble creature whose
threadbare clothes belie a splendid
past full of treasures. This varied
and greenery for the citizens. Most
construction took place after 1863,
when the walls began to be
demolished to make more land
available. The work was finally
quarter developed beyond the completed in the 1920s and 30s,
city walls (which ran parallel to when French architect Forestier
present-day Avenida Blgica landscaped the area of the
and Avenida de las Misiones) Paseo del Prado, the Parque
during the 1800s and was Remains of the Central, the Capitolio gardens
initially built to provide houses old walls and Parque de la Fraternidad.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Historic Buildings Quarters
Capitolio pp823 3 Barrio Chino e
Castillo de San Salvador
Theatres
de la Punta 8
Gran Teatro de La Habana 2
Hotel Inglaterra 1
Palacio de Aldama 6 Churches
Real Fbrica de Tabacos Iglesia del ngel Custodio 0
KEY
Partags 5 Iglesia del Sagrado
Street-by-Street map pp8081
Corazn r
Historic Streets and Plazas
Railway station
Avenida Carlos III t Museums
Callejn de Hammel y Museo Nacional de la Msica 9
Parque de la Fraternidad 4 Museo de la Revolucin
Paseo del Prado pp867 7 pp889 q
City Walls u Museo Nacional de Bellas
Artes pp925 w

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The bustling arcade alongside the Museo de la Msica (see p85)

80 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Street-by-Street: Around the Parque Central

Lying on the border of the old city and . Gran Teatro
Centro Habana, between the Capitolio de La Habana
and the Prado promenade, the Parque With one of its
Central was designed in 1877 after the old rooms named after
city walls were demolished. A statue of the great Spanish
Isabella II was put in the middle of the poet, Garca
square but was later replaced by one of Lorca, who stayed
Jos Mart. The park is surrounded by in Havana for a
19th- and 20th-century monumental few months in
buildings and adorned with palm trees, 1930, the theatre
and is the heart of the city centre, a is a mixture of
popular meeting place. Towards evening, influences with
when the air is cooler, people gather here slender, angular
to talk until the small hours of the night towers 2
about baseball, music and politics.

Real Fbrica de
Tabacos Partags
This elegant red and cream-
coloured building is home
to a prestigious cigar
factory 5 CA
LL
E
SA

Parque de la
N
MA

Fraternidad RIA
ST
RT

The park was DU

IN
N

L LE
laid out in 1892
(S

CA
AN

to celebrate
JO

the 400th
S
)

anniversary of
the discovery
of America 4
O)
AD
(PR
R T
MA
DE
O
SE
PA
CA
LLE
DR

CA
AG

LL
ON

E B
ES

R
AS
IL

The Cinema
Payret, Cubas first
motion picture theatre,
opened in 1897, a year after
STAR SIGHTS the Lumire brothers presented
their invention in Paris.
. Capitolio
. Gran Teatro . Capitolio
de La Habana The dome of one of the
most imposing buildings
. Hotel Inglaterra in Latin America towers
. Paseo del Prado over the urban landscape
of Havana 3
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2526 and pp2769
 C E N T R O H A B A N A A N D P R A D O 81

. Hotel Inglaterra
This historic hotel
has retained its
19th-century
atmosphere. Despite CENTRO HABANA
the British name, AND PRADO

the architectural
elements and
decoration are
clearly Spanish- LOCATOR MAP
inspired 1 See Street Finder, pp12023,
map 4

Calle San Rafael,

known as Boulevard, . Paseo del Prado
is a narrow street for This avenue, the locals favourite
pedestrians only. Up The Hotel Parque Central for strolling, is lined with
to the 1950s it was was built recently. Its style lovely buildings with recently
famous for its and decor blend in well
luxury shops restored arcades 7
with the surroundings
and boutiques. (see p254).

The statue
CA
LL

of Jos Mart, Cubas

E N

national hero, was

E

sculpted in Carrara
PT
UN

marble in Rome
O

by Jos Vilalta
y Saavedra and
inaugurated on
24 February 1905
L by Generalissimo
RA
NT Mximo Gmez.
E CE
R QU
PA

0 metres 100
CA

0 yards 100
LL
E
SA

KEY
N
RA

Suggested route
FA
EL

The Manzana de Gmez,

a 19th-century building,
was once a major
commercial centre, and
gradually shops are
returning here.

Palacio del Centro

Asturiano, with the
characteristic towers on its
corners, was designed by
Spanish architect Manuel
del Busto and opened in The Hotel Plaza, built in the 19th century
1928. It is home to the as a private residence, became a hotel
Museo de Bellas Artes in 1909. It was frequented by great artists
international art collection of the time, from Isadora Duncan to Enrico
(see pp925). Caruso and Anna Pavlova (see p254).
82 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Hotel Inglaterra 1 from 1875, when a small Gran Teatro

hotel merged with the lively
Paseo de Mart (Prado) 416, esq. a Le Louvre night spot and its
de La Habana 2
San Rafael. Map 4 D2. Tel (7) 860 adjacent ballroom. The pave- Paseo de Mart (Prado) y San Rafael,
8594. See p254. ment outside the hotel, known Central Havana. Map 4 D2.
as the Louvre sidewalk, was Tel (7) 8613 078. # 9am5pm
Although this hotel is built in an animated meeting point for daily. 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct,
the style of late 19th-century Havana liberals. It was here 25 Dec. & 8 6 (with charge).
Havana Neo-Classical archi- that the young Jos Mart (see
tecture, its soul is mudjar p45) advocated total separation One of the worlds largest
(Moorish): the fine ochre, from Spain, as opposed to opera houses is part of the
green and gold majolica tiles more moderate liberal monumental Palacio del
in the interior were imported demands for autonomy. Centro Gallego (1915),
from Seville, the foyer is General Antonio Maceo, a designed by Belgian architect
decorated with Andalusian hero of the wars of Cuban Paul Belau to host the social
mosaics, and the wooden independence, prepared plans activities of Havanas large
ceilings are reminiscent of for insurrection in this hotel. and affluent Spanish
Moorish inlay. Plus, one of Among many illustrious community.
the columns in the saln-caf guests were the great French The magnificent faade is
bears a classical Arabic inscrip- actress Sarah Bernhardt and decorated with four sculpture
tion: Only Allah is the victor. the Russian ballet dancer
The Hotel Inglaterra dates Anna Pavlova.

Capitolio 3

A symbol of the city, the Capitol (Capitolio) combines

the elegance of Neo-Classicism with Art Deco
elements. Inaugurated in 1929 by the dictator Gerardo
Machado, it is a loose imitation of the Washington DC
Capitol, but is even taller. It stands in an area once
occupied by a botanical garden and later by the capitals
first railway station. The home of government until 1959,
the Capitol has seen major historic events: in 1933 the
police fired on a crowd gathered here during an anti-
Machado demonstration. Today the building houses the The staircase of honour,
Ministry of Science, Technology and the Environment, originally reserved for MPs
but is open for tours, which include the former
government chambers and the magnificent library.

National Library of
Science and Technology

Chamber of Deputies
The Chamber still has its
original furnishings and
is decorated with bas-reliefs
by the Italian artist Gianni
Remuzzi.

STAR SIGHTS
. Saln de los
Pasos Perdidos

. Dome

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2526 and pp2769
 C E N T R O H A B A N A A N D P R A D O 83

this was the a performance of Verdis

venue for Aida, and became a stage for
performances by great dramatic occasions.
world-famous Sarah Bernhardt performed
artists, including here in 1918, and the pianist
the Austrian ballet Arthur Rubinstein the
dancer Fanny following year. Cuban
Essler, who made composer Ernesto Lecuona
her debut here on and the great Spanish
23 January 1841. guitarist Andrs Segovia have
In the mid-19th also appeared.
century Antonio In 1959 the Gran Teatro,
Faade of the former Centro Gallego building, Meucci, the though continuing in its role
now home to the Gran Teatro inventor of as a concert hall and theatre,
the talking became the home of Alicia
groups by the Italian sculptor telephone, worked here as a Alonso, the great Cuban
Giuseppe Moretti, depicting stagehand, and his invention ballet dancer. She founded
Charity, Education, Music and was patented in the US, the Ballet Nacional, which is
Theatre. The building lies thanks to the support of the the dance company and
over the foundations of the Gran Teatros impresario. school known for organizing
Teatro Nuevo or Tacn. From The theatre was inau- a famous annual ballet
1837 to the early 20th century gurated on 22 April 1915 with festival (see p125).

. Dome VISITORS CHECKLIST

Almost 92 m
(300 ft) high, Paseo de Mart (Prado) esq.
the dome was a San Jos. Map 4 D3.
Tel (7) 863 7861, 861 5519.
the highest point
# 9am6pm daily.
in the city until & 8 = 6 (with charge).
the 1950s.
Parliament

. Saln de los Pasos

Perdidos
This sumptuous hall, with fine
marble floors and gilded
lamps, takes its name (Hall
of Lost Steps) from its
unusual acoustics.
A copy of a 25-
carat diamond
Statue of the Republic
is embedded in the floor
This work, cast in Rome and
beneath the dome. The original
belonged to the last Tsar of Russia and covered with 22-carat gold leaf,
was sold to the Cuban state by a Turkish stands 17 m (56 ft) high and
jeweller. It was stolen and, mysteriously, weighs 49 tons. It is the third
later turned up on the Presidents desk. tallest statue in the world.
84 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Parque de la
Fraternidad 4
Map 4 D3.

The spacious area of greenery

behind the Capitol was
called Campo di Marte (Parade
Ground) in the 19th century,
because it was near the Paseo
Militar, used frequently for
army drill. As the Parque de la
Fraternidad (since 1928), it
commemorates Cubas
common roots with the other
people of the Americas, with
monuments to major figures
such as the Argentine Jos de
San Martn, the Venezuelan
Simn Bolvar, and US Faade of the Partags cigar factory with its prominent pediments
president Abraham Lincoln.
In the middle of the park is a Real Fbrica de and the project failed. His
gate with a plaque bearing an factory was then purchased by
exhortation by Jos Mart: It
Tabacos Partags 5 another shrewd businessman,
is time to gather and march Calle Industria 524. Map 4 D3.
Ramn Cifuentes Llano.
together united, we must go Tel (7) 863 5766. # 911am, 12 Dozens of people work
forward as compact as the 2pm MonFri. 1 Jan, 1 May, 26
in the aroma-filled interior.
silver in the depths of the Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec. 8 & = -
Nowadays, there is no longer
Andes. Peoples unite only someone reading aloud to
through bonds of friendship, Cubas largest cigar factory, alleviate the monotony of the
fraternity and love. Beyond with its Neo-Classical work by entertaining and
the gate is a monument to faade, is a good example educating the workers, as was
American friendship and of 19th-century industrial the case in the 19th century
solidarity: a large ceiba architecture. It was founded (Partags himself introduced
a tree sacred to both the in 1845 by the ambitious this custom to Cuba).
Amerindians and the African Catalan However there is
slaves taken to the New World businessman a loudspeaker
planted here around 1920. Jaime Partags that alternates
In front of the square is Ravelo. How- reading passages
a white marble fountain, ever, he never Neon sign at the with music and
sculpted in 1831 by Giuseppe revealed the Partags cigar factory news on the radio.
Gaggini. The fountain is sources of his Connected to the
known as the Fuente de la tobacco leaves or how they factory is La Casa del Habano,
India or La Noble Habana were processed. The only an excellent shop with a
an allegorical representation of information that survives is back room that is used for
the city. that he was the first person to sampling cigars.
Nowadays the use wooden barrels to
Parque de la ferment the leaves in order to
Fraternidad heighten the aroma.
Palacio
is usually With the profits made de Aldama 6
full of old from his high-quality cigars,
American Partags bought a plantation Avenda Simn Bolvar (Reina)
cars, most of in the province of Pinar del y Mximo Gmez (Monte).
which operate Ro. He wanted to oversee all Map 4 D3. to the public.
as private aspects of the cigar-making
taxis. process personally, from This mansion (see p25) was
growing the plants to the designed by Manuel Jos
placing of a Carrera and built in the
wrapper leaf middle of the 19th century,
around the filler having been commissioned by
and binder the rich Basque industrialist
leaves rolled by Domingo de Aldama y
the torcedor (see Arrechaga. He had to depend
p33). However, on his influential friends in
Partags was order to obtain permission to
assassinated in build his residence in front of
mysterious the Campo di Marte, or
The Fuente de la India symbolizing Havana circumstances Parade Ground, which was
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2526 and pp2769
 C E N T R O H A B A N A A N D P R A D O 85

reserved for military and Designed by Giovanni

administrative buildings. The Battista Antonelli, Juan de
monumental grandeur of this Tejeda and Cristbal de Roda
Neo-Classical building, and built in 15891610, it was
considered the finest example part of the citys first line of
of 19th-century architecture in defence together with the
Cuba, is still striking. The much larger Castillo de los
mansion is now the seat of Tres Reyes del Morro on the
the Instituto de Historia other side of the bay.
de Cuba. Sadly, it is A large floating chain The Museo de la Msica, an
not yet officially open of wooden and bronze example of eclectic architecture
to the public, but upon rings, an ingenious
request the porter device added by the
allows visitors to go into Italian engineer Antonelli Museo Nacional
the courtyard to admire in the late 16th century, de la Msica 9
the impressive marble connected the two
staircases, Baroque fortresses. It was Calle Capdevila 1, e/ Habana y
arches, splendid stretched tightly as soon Aguiar. Map 4 E1. Tel (7) 8619 846,
wrought iron with as an enemy ship was 8630 052. Closed for restoration
Imperial motifs sighted, to block until approximately late 2009. &
and the two inner access to the port. 86
gardens with In the open
fountains made The monument to General space in front of The building (1905) that
of Carrara marble. Mximo Gmez the Castillo are the houses the National Music
three cannons to Museum is a mixture of
which the chain was tied. different styles, a perfect
Paseo del Prado 7 The large forecourt has example of 20th-century
several monuments that are eclectic architecture. It was
See pp867. more important historically the residence of a family of
than artistically. In the middle opera lovers, whose guests
is the equestrian statue of included such illustrious
Castillo de Generalissimo Mximo Gmez, figures as the great Italian
the hero of the wars of tenor Enrico Caruso and
San Salvador independence, by Italian the Spanish poet Federico
de la Punta 8 sculptor Aldo Gamba (1935). Garca Lorca.
Behind this, a dilapidated The museum was founded
Malecn y Paseo de Mart (Prado). chapel is used daily for stamp in 1971, and contains the
Map 4 D1. Tel (7) 8603 196. exhibitions and history lectures. largest collection of traditional
# 10am4:30pm TueSat, 10am It originally belonged to the musical instruments in Cuba,
1:30pm Sun. & 6 Real Crcel prison, where Jos gathered by the ethnologist
Mart was kept for 16 years Fernando Ortiz, a pioneer in
A modest fortified block for subversive activities against the study of Cubas African
on the west bank of the the Spanish crown. Some cells roots. Besides the most
port entrance, this fortress still stand, as does a section complete collection of African
(castillo) makes an ideal of the wall against which some drums in the world, there
setting for political speeches medical students were is the piano of singer and
and concerts because of its executed on 27 November composer Bola de Nieve (see
elevated position near the 1871 as punishment for p30) and 40 guitars used by
road. In the past it played a rebelling against Spanish rule. legendary figures of 20th-
crucial role in the defence A cenotaph in their honour century Cuban music, such as
system of the capital but stands in the Columbus the Tro Matamoros and Sindo
today it is a naval museum. cemetery (see p104). Garay. Also on show are
gramophones and
phonographs,
photos and famous
composers original
manuscripts. In the
foyer is a music
stand with the score
of the Bayamo, the
Cuban national
anthem. Visitors can
consult specialist
Cuban and foreign
periodicals, as well
as the archive of
rare musical
The Castillo de la Punta ramparts and the Morro fortress behind documents.
86 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Paseo del Prado 7

The most picturesque boulevard in Havana is popular in

the daytime for a gentle stroll and gossip in the shade
of the trees, and at sunset is one of the locals main
haunts. The Marquis de la Torre had the Paseo laid out
in 1772 outside the city walls, and it rapidly became the
favourite spot for city aristocrats to take their carriage Lions
rides. Bands were positioned in five spots along the Eight lions, symbolizing
boulevard to play for their enjoyment. The Paseo was Havana, were added in
used for military and carnival parades in the 19th 1927, together with the
century, when the paving was redone. In 1927 the marble benches near the
French architect Forestier designed the Prado as Teatro Fausto.
we see it today: it was widened and lined with
bronze lions and marble benches.

Casa del Cientfico,

Neo-Moorish Building residence of JosMiguel
The building at the Gmez, second President
of the Republic of Cuba,
corner of Calle Virtudes,
is nowa small hotel.
richly decorated and with
mudjar arches, shows
many architectural
influences and is typical
of Havana.

Hotel Sevilla
This historic hotel opened in
1908 and a ten-storey tower was
Palacio de los Matrimonios added in 1918. It is a homage to
Named after the civil weddings celebrated on Moorish architecture: the faade
the first floor, this Neo-Baroque building was and hall decoration are mudjar
inaugurated in 1914 as the Casino Espaol. (see p24) in style.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2526 and pp2769
 C E N T R O H A B A N A A N D P R A D O 87

Iglesia del ngel

Custodio 0
Calle Compostela 2, esq. Cuarteles.
Map 4 D2. Tel (7) 8610 469.
# 9amnoon & 37pm TueFri,
47pm Sat, 910:30am Sun.
5 47pm Sat, 910am Sun.

Built in 1693 on the Pea

Pobre or Loma del ngel hill
Children playing in the shade during school break as a hermitage and then
transformed into a church in
Home of Dr Carlos 0 metres 60
1788, today the Neo-Gothic
Finlay, who 0 yards 60 ngel Custodio looks rather
discovered that too white and unreal as a
mosquitoes spread result of vigorous restoration.
yellow fever. Standing in a key position
between the former presiden-
tial palace (now the Museo de
la Revolucin) and the old
town, it exudes literary refer-
ences. The 19th-century Cuban
novelist Cirilo Villaverde (see
p28) used the Loma del ngel
hill as the setting for his story
Cecilia Valds about the tragic
love affair between a Creole
woman and a rich white man.
Flix Varela (see p28) and
Jos Mart (see p45) were
both baptised in this church.

The Teatro
Fausto was built
in 1938 over the
foundations of
an old theatre of
the same name. Restored Buildings
These porticoed buildings were built
along the avenue in the late 19th to
early 20th century as private homes.
They have been carefully restored,
and the original bright pastel colours The bell tower and spires of the
have been brought back to life. church of ngel Custodio

GRAHAM GREENE IN HAVANA

The classic espionage thriller Our Man in Havana (1958),
Street Lamps by the English author Graham Greene, is an excellent
Elegant wrought- description of Havana at the eve of the Revolution. In the
book Greene narrates the adventures of a
iron street lamps vacuum cleaner salesman who
were added in becomes a secret agent against his
1834, together will. The novel is imbued with a dry
with the multi- sense of humour, and is set against
coloured marble an intriguing environment filled with
pavement. casinos and roulette wheels, New
York skyscrapers and decadent Art
Nouveau villas, cabarets and
prostitution. The Hotel Sevilla
is a constant presence in the
background. Graham Greene (190491)
88 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Museo de la Revolucin q

The idea of putting the Museum of the Revolution in

the former presidential palace of the dictator Fulgencio
Batista was clearly symbolic. Designed by the Cuban
architect Rodolfo Maruri and the Belgian architect Paul
Belau, the building was inaugurated in 1920 by Mario
Garca Menocal, and it remained the residence for 25 Statues of Che Guevara
other presidents until 1965. The building has Neo-Classical and Camilo Cienfuegos
elements, and was decorated by Tiffany of New York. It These life-size wax statues
contains works by the leading Cuban decorators of the depict the two heroes
early 1900s and by sculptors such as Juan Jos Sicre, in combat.
Esteban Betancourt and Fernando Boada. The museum
features documents, photographs and memorabilia
presenting an overview of the Cubans struggle for
independence, from the Colonial period on, but
focusing in particular on the Revolution,
from the guerrilla war to the
Special Period in the 1990s.

The third
floor
contains
photos and
memorabilia
from colonial
times to 1959.

The side
wing of the
palace was
home to
Batistas office.

GRANMA MEMORIAL
The large glass and cement pavilion in the tree-lined plaza
behind the museum contains the yacht Granma (named
after its first owners grandmother). In 1956 this boat
brought Fidel Castro and some of his comrades from
Mexico to Cuba to begin the armed struggle against
Batista (see p48). There are also objects and vehicles
relating to the invasion of the
Bay of Pigs (1961), remains of
an American spy plane shot
down in 1962 during the missile STAR FEATURES
crisis, and the delivery truck that
was used by revolutionaries to . Saln
attack the palace in 1957. de los Espejos
The remains of a planes engine . Main Staircase

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2526 and pp2769
 C E N T R O H A B A N A A N D P R A D O 89

The Dome VISITORS CHECKLIST

The inside of the dome,
visible from the staircase, Calle Refugio 1, e/ Avenida
consists of multicoloured de las Misiones y Zulueta.
Map 4 D2. Tel (7) 862 4091.
ceramics. It includes four
# 10am5pm daily.
panels, decorated by &86-=
Esteban Valderrama
and Mariano Miguel
Gonzlez, against
a gold leaf
background.

The second floor displays

the Presidents desk, the
Council of Ministers and
memorabilia from 1959 to
the present day.

. Saln de los Espejos

Lined with vast mirrors
(espejos), the reception hall
of the former presidential
palace has ceiling frescoes
by Cuban painters
Armado Menocal and
Antonio Rodrguez Morey.

The tall windows are similar to

those in the Gran Teatro de La
Habana, and were designed by
the same architect, Paul Belau.

The terrace opposite the

Saln de los Espejos has a fine
view of the Bay of Havana.
Entrance

. Main Staircase
The monumental staircase, which
leads to the first floor, still
bears marks of the bullets shot here
on 13 March 1957, during an attack
by some revolutionary university
students on a mission to kill Batista.
The dictator managed to save
his life by escaping to the upper floors.
90 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Museo Nacional Iglesia del Sagrado

de Bellas Artes w Corazn r
See pp925. Avenida Simn Bolvar (Reina) 463.
Map 3 B3. Tel (7) 8624 979.
# 7:30amnoon, 36pm daily.
Barrio Chino e 5 8am, 4:30pm MonSat, 8am,
9:30am, 4:30pm Sun. & 8 6
Map 3 C3.
With its impressive bell
The Chinese quarter of tower, 77 m (253 ft) high, the
Havana, the Barrio Chino, Church of the Sacred Heart
which now occupies a small can be seen from various parts
area defined by San Nicols, of the city. It was designed in
Dragones, Zanja and Rayo The austere interior of Iglesia de la the early 1900s by the Jesuit
streets, developed in the 19th Caridad priest Luis Gorgoza and
century. In its heyday, in the consecrated in 1923, and is a
early 1900s, there was a cul- pagoda roof. Another, much rare example of the Neo-
tural association performing more impressive Ming and Gothic style in Cuba.
plays and operas, and a casino. Ching-style portico was erect- Dominating the faade is a
The colourful streets were full ed in 1998 at the corner of figure of Christ resting on three
of vendors of fritters and other Calle Dragones and Calle columns decorated with a
Asian specialities, and people Amistad. It is almost 19 m (62 capital depicting the parable of
came to buy the best fruit ft) wide and was donated to the prodigal son. The interior
and freshest fish in the city. Cuba by the Chinese has elaborate stained-glass
Today, all the Chinese shops government. windows narrating the life of
are concentrated in the so- The Barrio Chino is also Christ and a wealth of stucco-
called Cuchillo de Zanja area home to the Iglesia de la work and pointed arches. A
(the intersection of Zanja and Caridad, dedicated to Cubas Byzantine-style Sacred Heart
Rayo), a mixture of the oriental patron saint (see p221). The with sculptures of saints and
and the tropical; the architec- church also has a popular prophets is on the high altar.
ture, however, is not particu- statue, a Virgin with Asian
larly characteristic, except for features, brought here in the
the quarter gate, which has a mid-1950s.

THE CHINESE COMMUNITY IN HAVANA

The first Chinese arrived in Cuba in the mid-1800s to work
in the sugar industry, and they were treated like slaves. The
first to gain their freedom began to cultivate small plots of
land in Havana. In one of these, near the present-day Calle
Salud, they grew Cubas first mangoes, which were an
immediate, spectacular success. Chinese restaurants began to
appear in the area after the second wave of Chinese
immigrants arrived from California (186975), armed with
their American savings. Without losing any of their cultural
traditions, the Chinese community has become assimilated
into Cuban society, accepting and sharing the islands lot. A
black granite column at the corner of Calle Linea and Calle L Entrance to the Iglesia del Sagrado
remembers the Chinese who fought for Cuban independence. Corazn, with its statue of Christ

Avenida Carlos III t

(Avenida Salvador Allende) Map 3 B3.

Laid out in 1850 during

redevelopment under the
supervision of Captain Miguel
de Tacn, this boulevard
(official name Avenida Salva-
dor Allende) was designed to
allow troops and military
vehicles to go from the Castillo
del Prncipe built on the
Arstegui hill in the late 1700s
Entrance gate to Barrio Chino, the Chinese quarter in Havana to their parade ground in
the present-day Parque
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2526 and pp2769
 C E N T R O H A B A N A A N D P R A D O 91

Callejn de Hammel, famous for its exotic and colourful murals

de la Fraternidad. The middle pay homage to his varied

section of the boulevard was cultural roots by representing
City Walls u
reserved for carriages, while all the religious cults and Avenida del Puerto Map 4 D5.
the two side avenues with movements of African origin
their benches, trees and that are still active in Cuba, The old colonial city of San
fountains were for hence the many symbols, Cristbal de La Habana was
pedestrians. First writings, and images of encircled and fortified by a
named Alameda de African gods and 9-m (30-ft) high wall with
Tacn or Paseo Abaku devils (see nine bastions and a moat.
Militar, it was p23). He began this Construction began in 1671
renamed Avenida enormous project and took over a century to
Carlos III in honour in 1990. complete, finishing in 1797.
of the Spanish king This alley has Once finished, the gates
who encouraged everything: from small were closed every evening
Cuban commerce shops selling hand- and access to the bay was
and culture in the crafted religious blocked by a chain. Cannon
18th century. objects to a Nganga, shots were fired every night
One of the most the large cauldron-like from a ship anchored in the
curious buildings on pot which forms the bay, informing the inhabitants
the street is the Grand basis of Palo Monte, that the gates were closing
National Masonic Representation of the religion of (see p111). By the early 19th
Temple, with a world Ochn, the former Bantu slaves century, the city was expand-
map on the roof, built goddess of love from the African ing so fast that finally in 1863
in the mid-1900s. Congo. On Sundays the walls had to be torn down.
Callejn Hammel becomes Today, the best remaining sec-
the venue for rumba shows, tions are opposite the Museo
Callejn popular with the locals and de la Revolucin (see pp889)
de Hammel y tourists alike. and by the train station.

Map 3 A2.

This street in the working-

class Cayo Hueso quarter
is a curious open-air Afro-
Cuban sanctuary. Its name
derives from a legendary
French-German resident
called Fernando Hammel, a
wealthy arms dealer-turned-
merchant, who took the
entire quarter under his wing.
The colourful, 200-m (656-ft)
mural here, for which the
street is now famous, is the
work of naive painter Salva-
dor Gonzlez. He wanted to Remaining section of the old City Wall near Estracin Central
92 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes e

The National Fine Arts Museum was founded on 23

1 3" %0
February 1913 thanks to the efforts of the architect 0ALACIO

/&4
DE"ELLAS!RTES
Emilio Heredia, its first director. After frequent moves,

&
. "3 5

.* 4 *0
the collections eventually found a definitive home in 0
3"%

"
the block once occupied by the old Coln market. The 1&%

6&5

&.

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-"4
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original design was changed when the arcades of the

"5 &
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building were demolished and in 1954 the new Palacio
de Bellas Artes was inaugurated, a Rationalist building

7*--&
1"326&
with purely geometric lines designed by the architect

("4
$&/53"-
Rodrguez Pichardo. The museum is now divided

"(3"
between two buildings: the original palacio dedicated

.0/
0ALACIO
to Cuban art, and the Palacio del Centro Asturiano, by DEL#ENTRO
!STURIANO

5&
the Parque Central, dedicated to international art.
LOCATOR MAP
See Street Finder, map 4, p123

Sagrada Familia
The Holy Family by the
Spanish artist
Bartolom Esteban
Murillo (161882),
who enjoyed great
Virgin and Child fame during his
This triptych by Hans Memling lifetime, is a calm,
(143394) exemplifies the vivid meditative scene.
style and masterful spatial
construction that made this
artist one of the great
masters of Flemish
painting.

PALACIO
DEL CENTRO
ASTURIANO
European painting
and sculpture, together
with the collection of
ancient art, are on display
in the Centro Asturiano,
designed in 1927 by the
STAR SIGHTS architect Manuel Bustos.

. La Silla
by Wifredo Lam

. La Habana en Rojo by . Panathenaean Amphora

Ren Portocarrero
This terracotta amphora in the black
figure style is one of the most important
. Panathenaean pieces in the museums collection of
Amphora ancient Greek vases, which once
belonged to the Count de Lagunillas.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2526 and pp2769
 C E N T R O H A B A N A A N D P R A D O 93

VISITORS CHECKLIST
Palacio del Centro Asturiano,
San Rafael, e/ Zulueta y
Monserrate. Palacio de Bellas
Artes, Calle Trocadero, e/
Zulueta y Monserrate. Map 4 D2.
Tel (7) 861 3858, 863 9484. Fax
(7) 862 9626. # 10am6pm
TueSat, 10am2pm Sun.
1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct,
25 Dec. & 8 ^ - =

The permanent
. La Habana en Rojo (1962) collection is displayed
Havana in Red is part of a long series that Ren in chronological order
Portocarrero dedicated to the capital. This painting on the first and
in particular expresses the passionate Baroque second floors.
spirit that characterizes all of
Portocarreros work.

PALACIO
Entrance DE BELLAS ARTES
The Palace of Fine Arts is
entirely given over to Cuban art.
Sculptures line the perimeter of the
central courtyard, which houses service
rooms for cultural education, the auditori-
um and the library. The two upper floors
feature galleries divided into three
sections: Colonial, academic and
20th-century art (divided into
decades from the 1930s to the 1990s).

Form, Space and Light (1953)

This marble sculpture by Rita Longa, in the
museum entrance, is characterized by a fluid
concept of volume. Two male figures create a
harmonious counterpoint.

. La Silla (1943)
One of several fine works in which Wifredo Lam
combines Cubism and Surrealism and adds a
distinctively Cuban stamp: a Cubist
chair with a vase on it is set in
the magical context of the jungle.
94 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Exploring the Museo Nacional

de Bellas Artes
During the reassessment of many of Cubas cultural
institutions after 1959, a large number of works
were added to the original museum collection the
result of the confiscation of property that had been
misappropriated. The collection was divided into two
sections: Cuban and international art. The first consists
of paintings, prints, drawings, and sculptures; the second
has paintings, sculptures and drawings primarily from
Europe, the US and Latin America, with some works
dating from the Egyptian to the Roman age.
Among the finest works in
PALACIO DEL the collection are the Flemish
CENTRO ASTURIANO paintings and the 19th-
(INTERNATIONAL ART) century Spanish pictures,
including one by Joaqun
The building designed as Sorolla: Entre Naranjos Clotilde en los Jardines
the home of the collection (1903). In this the artist de la Granja by Joaqun Sorolla
of international art depicts a banquet in the
has maintained its countryside, using the and the Thames (1751), in
original architectural play of the figures, which the painter brilliantly
elements, with light and shadow renders the atmosphere of
furnishings, iron to create an London. There is also a
grilles, stained-glass Impressionist-like scene of Venice by Francesco
windows and atmosphere. The Guardi, The Lagoon in front
chandeliers. Besides same can be said of the Fondamenta Nuove,
the gallery, the place of the movement a youthful work with the
also has communal of the water and delicate rendering that
areas for the public, the garden in the characterized his later pro-
study rooms, a book background in Clotilde duction. Other Italian works
shop, caf, a video room en los Jardines de la are St Christopher by Jacopo
and an auditorium. Granja, which is a Bassano (ca. 151592),
The collection of Head of the god portrait of the artists Alpine Landscape with
international art Amon, ancient wife. Other Spanish Figures by Alessandro
comprises paintings Egyptian sculpture artists represented Magnasco (1667 1748), and
and sculptures are Murillo and The Spinstress by Giovanni
displayed in sections: the Zurbarn. Then there are Battista Piazzetta. The
Middle Ages, Italy, Germany, works by Constable, Reception of a Legation by
Flanders, the Netherlands, Bouguereau and Van Mieris. Vittore Carpaccio (1490) has
Great Britain, France and The Italian collection a rigorously symmetrical
Spain. There are also works includes a group of landscape composition.
from various European paintings, including one by The ancient art section is
schools, the United States and Canaletto: Chelsea College, also fascinating: Greek,
Latin America. Rotunda, Ranelagh House Roman and Egyptian works,
as well as Mesopotamian,
Phoenician and Etruscan
finds. The 5th-century BC
Greek amphora and the
Fayoum portraits are
especially interesting.

PALACIO DE BELLAS
ARTES (CUBAN ART)

The permanent exhibition of

18th21st-century Cuban
art offers a complete overview
of works by individuals and
schools, and highlights the
leading trends in each period.
The temporary exhibition of
prints and drawings, as well as
One of the many views that Canaletto painted of London of paintings, adds variety and
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2526 and pp2769
 C E N T R O H A B A N A A N D P R A D O 95

richness to the permanent

collection, which has works
by the great masters of
contemporary Cuban art.
Two of the major figures are
painter Wifredo Lam (La Silla,
1943) and sculptor Agustn
Crdenas, who were both
influenced by the European
avant-garde and African art.
The free play of volumes in
the wooden sculpture Figure,
less than 1 m (3 ft) high,
expresses to the full the
African-derived sensuality that
informs Crdenass style.
Cuban art in the 19th
century, characterized by its
technical skill, is represented El Malecn by Manuel Mendive, an extraordinary Naive painting
by the portraits of Guillermo
Collazo, an academic and against the background of a After the victory of the
painter, and landscapes by the barren landscape, which has revolution in 1959, Cuban art
Chartrand brothers. Other become a symbol of Cuban embraced extremely varied
artists with an academic painting (see p26). There are styles. Servando Cabrera first
background are Armando several works by Amelia took guerrillas as his subject
Garca Menocal and Pelez, who revived the and then made an erotic
Leopoldo Romaach, a still-life genre by merging series. Antonia Eiriz was a
painter and lecturer at Cubism and specifically particularly powerful Neo-
the Academy. Cuban motifs; among Expressionist, and Ral
The pioneers of these are Naturaleza Martnez began with abstract
modern Cuban art are Muerta sobre Ocre, art and then absorbed
particularly interesting. executed in 1930 in Paris, elements of Pop Art.
One of these is Vctor and Flores Amarillas, a Another renowned contem-
Manuel Garca, an mature work that marks porary artist is Manuel Mendive
exceptional landscape a return to more simple who, in embracing Cubas
painter who conveys compositions after a African heritage, searches for
peaceful atmospheres Baroque period. the hidden depths of exist-
with silently flowing El Rapto de las ence. El Malecn (1975), one
rivers and figureswith Figure (1953) Mulatas (1938), by of his most significant works,
sinuous movements. by Augustn Carlos Enrquez, is a depicts the citys famous
Garca is the creator Crdenas dream-like tangleof promenade as if it were an
of the mestizo human figures, horses almost sacred site where
archetype: Gitana Tropical and landscape that echoes people mingle with African
(Tropical Gypsy, 1929) the classical theme of the gods. The style here is at once
includes a figure of a woman rape of the Sabine women. naive and sophisticated.
It is considered Of the leading artists of the
emblematic of Cuban 1970s there are works by Ever
painting and of this Fonseca, Nelson Domnguez,
artists oeuvre. The and the unique illustrator
sensuality of the Roberto Fabelo. Among the
human bodies and younger artists (all graduates
the tropical atmos- of the historic San Alejandro
phere in this work Academy and Escuela
provide a key to Nacional de Arte), Toms
the interpretation Snchez, with his archetypal
of the motifs of landscapes, and Jos Bedia,
traditional art. with his bold installations,
The chronological stand out. The artists who
display of works continue to emerge on the
illustrates the Cuban art scene thanks to
development of the Biennial Show exhibit
Cuban art. In the their works in the many
1950s there was a temporary shows.
move away from Of the considerable number
figurative art, as of works in its possession,
seen in the work of the museum now exhibits
Flores Amarillas (1964), a still life dating Guido Llins and many paintings, drawings,
from Amelia Pelezs mature phase Hugo Consuegra. prints and sculptures.
 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A 97

VEDADO AND PLAZA

T he unusual grid plan

of Vedado was the
design of the
engineer Luis Ybolen
Bosque in 1859. It called
area for many of the citys lead-
ing families. Vedado has
two different roles. It is
Havanas modern political
and cultural centre, with
for pavements 2 m (6 ft) the citys main hotels,
wide, houses with a gar- restaurants, shops, theatres,
den, and broad straight Sculpture at the corner
cinemas, offices and min-
avenues. The name Vedado of 23 and 12 Street istries; and it is also a his-
(prohibited) arose because toric quarter with a wealth
in the 1500s, in order to have full view of gardens and old houses with grand
of any pirates approaching, it was for- Colonial entrances. Plaza de la
bidden to build houses and streets Revolucin, the venue for major cel-
here. In the late 19th and early 20th ebrations, is the political centre of
century the quarter was enlarged, Havana and the whole of Cuba, as
becoming a prestigious residential well as a highly symbolic place.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Museums and Galleries KEY
Museo de Artes Decorativas 3 Walk pp989
Museo Napolenico 5
Coach station
Historic Buildings
Casa de las Amricas 2
Quinta de los Molinos 6
Universidad de La Habana 4 ."-&$/

Monuments
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GETTING THERE
This area is huge, but getting around on foot
can be a rewarding experience if you have time.
Otherwise, the best alternative is to go by taxi. 0 metres 1000
In order to orientate yourself you will need to 0 yards 1000
know how the street names work (see p118).

The end of the Malecon in Vedado with the mouth of the Rio Almendares
98 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

A Walk through Vedado 1

This walk takes in the broad avenues which are typical

of Vedado, providing a taste of the districts odd
architectural mix of ugly 1950s high-rises and crumbling
Neo-Classical mansions. There is only one museum on
this route (Vedado has few conventional attractions),
leaving you free to simply stroll and look around. Calle
23, modern Havanas most well-known street, is the
main reference point for the walk. The most famous
section is the first few blocks, known as La Rampa. The Hotel Habana Libre, with the
mosaic La Fruta Cubana (1957)

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p29). Coppelia is the most

popular ice-cream parlour in
Malecn and the futuristic Pabelln the city (hence the queues).
The stretch of the Malecn Cuba, which hosts exhibitions. On the other side of Calle
where this walk begins is This part of the walk is accom- 23 is the impressive Hotel
dominated by the headland panied by the unmistakable Habana Libre (see p255), with
occupied by the Hotel profile of the Edificio Focsa 2, a tiled mural by renowned
Nacional 1. This gem of Art a skyscaper built in the 1950s. Cuban artist Amelia Pelez.
Deco architecture opened in This route also takes you by The hotel first opened in 1958,
1930 (see p255). Many famous a small open-air crafts market and a year later was requisi-
guests have stayed here includ- and the Centro de Prensa tioned from the Americans
ing Winston Churchill, Fred Internacional, which and became Fidel Castros
Astaire, Buster Keaton and Walt caters to foreign headquarters. Inside
Disney. The hotel park offers journalists. are two mosaics by
lovely views across the bay. Portocarrero and
Calle 23 Sosabravo (see pp267).
La Rampa In the At the intersection
Head briefly south to reach middle of with Calle J is the
La Rampa (the first rising the park at the corner Parque El Quijote
stretch of Calle 23 between of Calle 23 and L is the 4, a tree-filled
the seafront and Calle N). Coppelia ice-cream area with a modern
Modern and lively, lined with parlour 3, a large glass statue of a nude Don
offices, restaurants and bars and metal building Quixote on horseback
with old-fashioned neon (1966). This classic location in by Sergio Martnez.
signs, La Rampa would pass Havana was made famous Further along Calle
for a typical 1950s street were by Toms Gutirrez 23 the buildings
it not for the faade of the Aleas film lessen in height
Ministry of Sugar (or Minaz) Strawberry and The statue of Don Quixote and are more
with its revolutionary mural Chocolate (see by Sergio Martnez (1980) varied in style.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2526 and pp2769
 V E D A D O A N D P L A Z A 99

ITINERARY VISITORS CHECKLIST

Hotel Nacional 1
Departure: Hotel Nacional.
Edificio Focsa 2 Arrival: corner of 23 y 12.
Coppelia 3 Length: 3.5 km (2 miles).
Parque El Quijote 4 Where to eat: Coppelia ice-
Museo de la Danza 5 cream parlour, Casa de la
Casa de la Amistad 6 Amistad, one of the bars at the
ICAIC 7 The constant queue for the corner of 23 y 12. Plan stops
Coppelia ice-cream parlour and museum visits for the (hot)
middle of the day. Museo de la
Danza Tel (7) 8312 198. #
10:30am6pm TueSat,
10:30am1pm Sun. 1 Jan, 1
May, 26 Jul, 25 Dec. & 8 6

 

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famous dancers who have 23 y 12

visited Cuba, drawings of stage Continue on Calle Paseo back
Avenida de los Presidentes sets, historic photos, and to Calle 23, six blocks away
The tour continues by turning works by contemporary artists. from the busy central intersec-
right at Calle G (Avenida de los tion where this walk ends. A
Presidentes), a wide, tree-lined Paseo plaque declares that on 16
avenue with luxurious 19th- Continue along Calle Lnea to April 1961, on the eve of the
and 20th-century French-style the junction with one of the American invasion at the Bay
buildings. In the middle of loveliest streets in Havana: of Pigs (see p167), Fidel Castro
the street are benches and Calle Paseo, which is like a announced that the Cuban
flower beds. Behind the long, thin park running Revolution was Socialist.
statue of Simn Bolvar up to the Plaza de la At Calle 23 y 12 there are
is the junction with Revolucin (see restaurants and bars, shops,
Calle Lnea. p 102). It is lined and cinemas like the Chaplin
with elegant build- Cinematheque and the Cuban
Calle Lnea ings with splendid Institute of Cinematographic
The first street to gardens: mostly Arts and Industry (ICAIC) 7
be laid out in the Alicia Alonsos shoes, ministries and (see p29), with an art gallery
Vedado quarter Museo de la Danza public administra- featuring contemporary artists.
owes its name to tion offices. The
the tramline (lnea) that once Casa de la Amistad 6, at No.
ran from here to the historic 406 between Calle 17 and 19,
centre. Calle Lnea also has is a cultural centre with a bar
many French-style buildings and restaurant, and part of a
as well as Colonial houses lavish Art Deco building
with stained-glass windows. given by the wealthy Pedro
The recently restored build- Bar to his mistress Caterina
ing at the corner of Calle G Lasa, grande dame of Havana
is the Museo de la Danza 5, high society. They were
run by the legendary ballerina forced to flee to Europe by
Alicia Alonso, founder of the the scandal caused by their
Ballet Nacional (see p83). The affair, but returned in 1917,
only dance museum in Latin when Lasa managed to get a The permanent poster exhibition
America, it has mementoes of divorce from her first husband. in the ICAIC building
100 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

the Manzana de Gmez (see Universidad de

p81). The mansion was built
in 1927, and is well worth a
La Habana 4
visit for its French Rococo- Calle 27 de Noviembre (Jovellar) y
Louis XV furnishings, as well Ronda. Map 2F2. Museo
as for the inner gardens. Antropolgico Montan, Felipe
The collection reveals the Poey Bldg, Plaza Ignacio Agramonte.
sophisticated and exotic tastes Tel (7) 8793 488. # 9amnoon,
of the ruling classes and 14pm MonFri. 1 Jan, 1 May,
wealthy collectors of the 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec. & 8 6
Colonial period. Major works
of art here include two The University of Havana
paintings by Hubert Robert, was founded under the
The Swing and The Large auspices of a papal bull in
The Art Deco building that is the Waterfall at Tivoli, and 1728 and was initially
home of the Casa de las Amricas two 17th-century bronze housed in the Dominican
sculptures in the foyer. monastery of St John
The main hall on the Lateran, in the heart of
Casa de las Louis XV-style ground Habana Vieja. In 1902,
Amricas 2 floor has 18th-century a few days after the
Chinese vases, Meissen proclamation of the
Calle 3ra, esq. G. Map 1 C1. porcelain, a large Cuban Republic, it was
Tel (7) 838 2706, 838 2707. Aubusson carpet dating transferred to the Vedado
# 10am5pm MonFri. 1 Jan, from 1722 and paintings area to a site which had
1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec. ^ by French artists. been utilized as an
A bedroom on explosives store in the
On the Malecn, beyond the ground floor Colonial period.
the Monument to the holds a collection Chinese porcelain, The new univer-
Victims of the Maine (see p58), of Chinese screens, Museo de Artes sity, housed in
there is a kind of secular while the Countesss Decorativas various buildings,
temple, with a bell tower but room features a was built between
no cross. This is the Casa secretaire that once belonged 1906 and 1940. In front of the
de las Amricas, a cultural to Marie Antoinette. main entrance, now the venue
institution, which was built Last but not least is the pink for political demonstrations
in just four months after the marble Art Deco bathroom, and concerts, is the Alma
triumph of the Cuban which should not be missed. Mater, the symbol of Havana
Revolution. Hayde Santa-
mara, one of the heroines
of the stuggle, founded
the Casa with the aim of
promoting exchanges among
artists and writers on the
American continent.
The centre features Arte
Nuestra Amrica, the most
comprehensive collection
known of Latin American
painting and graphic art from
the 1960s to the present.

Museo de Artes
Decorativas 3
Calle 17, 502. Map 2 D2. Tel (7) 8309
848. # 10:30am4:30pm TueSat,
9am 1pm Sun. 1 Jan, 1 May, 25
Dec. & 8 6 (with charge) -
www.cult.cu/patrim/cnpc/museos

The wonderful Museum of

Decorative Arts is housed in
the former residence of
one of the wealthiest Cuban
women of the 20th century:
the Countess de Revilla de
Camargo, sister of Jos
Gmez Mena, the owner of The Neo-Classical foyer of the Museo de Artes Decorativas

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2526 and pp2769
 V E D A D O A N D P L A Z A 101

The austere faade of the University of Havana, with the statue of the Alma Mater at the top of the staircase

University. This statue, of Museo Quinta de

a woman with her arms
outstretched in a gesture of
Napolenico 5 los Molinos 6
welcome, was cast in 1919 Calle San Miguel 1159, esq. a Avenida Carlos III (Salvador Allende)
in New York by the Czech Ronda. Map 2 F3. Tel (7) 8791 412, y Luaces. Map 2 F3.
sculptor Mario Korbel. It was 8791 460. closed for restoration Tel (7) 8798 850.
installed at the top of the until approximately mid-2009. Closed for restoration until early
broad granite stairway that & 8 6 (with charge). = 2010.
forms the entrance to the www.cult.cu/patrim/cnpc/museos
complex in 1927. The student A typical 19th-century villa
entrance to the university is The surprising presence of a in the Vedado quarter,
in Calle San Lzaro, which Napoleonic museum in Cuba the Quinta de los Molinos
broadens out into an is due to the passion of a was built as the summer
open space where the sugar magnate, Julio Lobo. residence of the captains-
ashes of Julio Antonio For years he sent his general in 1837. The villa
Mella (see p46) are kept, agents all over the world stands in a leafy area with
before sloping upwards. in search of Napoleonic two tobacco mills (molinos).
In the Science Faculty, mementoes. In 1959, The rambling grounds
the Felipe Poey Museum when Lobo around the villa were filled
of Natural History is left Cuba, the Cuban with tropical vegetation from
open to visitors. Of government bought the Botanical Garden, which
much greater interest, his collection. was then in the Capitol area
however, is the Museo Every room in this but was dismantled after the
Antropolgico curious museum con- Parque Central was enlarged.
Montan, in the Mathe- tains fine examples of The park is popular among
matics Department. imperial-style furniture as local musicians, who come
Founded in 1903, this well as all sorts of here to practise.
museum has exceptional surprising Napoleonic In 1899, General Mximo
pre-Columbian archaeo- memorabilia, including Gmez, Commander in Chief
logical finds from Cuba, one of the emperors teeth of the liberation army, stayed
such as the Idolo del and a tuft of his here, which is why it is now
Tabaco found on the Idolo de Tabaco, hair. There are two a museum dedicated to
eastern tip of the Museo Montan portraits, one by this hero of the wars of
island, the Idolo de Andrea Appioni, independence (see p44).
Bayamo, one of the largest painted in Milan during
stone sculptures in the entire Napoleons second Italian
Caribbean area, and the Dujo campaign, and another by
de Santa Fe, a wooden Antoine Gros. There is also
ceremonial seat. his death mask, cast two days
The oldest building on the before Napoleons death by
hill is the Great Hall, with an Francesco Antommarchi, the
austere faade behind which Italian physician who had
are allegorical paintings by accompanied him to the
Armando Menocal. The hall island of St Helena and who
itself contains the old University later settled in Cuba.
of San Gernimo bell, used to The mansion itself was built
convene the professors, and in the 1920s by Oreste
the remains of Flix Varela Ferrara, counsellor to the
(see p28), brought to Cuba in dictator Gerardo Machado,
1911 from Florida, where the who furnished it in a Neo- A stained-glass window in the
Cuban intellectual had died. Florentine Gothic style. Quinta de los Molinos
102 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

P Ministerio del Interior P Palacio de la Revolucin

Calle Aranguren. Calle Mart.
The faade of the Ministry of The former Ministry of Justice
the Interior, which stands (1958) behind the Mart
directly opposite the statue of Memorial now houses the
Mart, is almost completely offices of the Council of
covered by a huge bronze State, the Council of Ministers
wire sculpture of Che Guevara, and the Central Committee of
which was completed in 1995. the Communist Party. It was
(The guerrilla fighter had his here that Fidel Castro
office in this building in the received Pope John Paul II on
early 1960s.) This striking and 22 January 1998.
symbolic image was inspired
by the world-famous photo-
graph taken by the press
photographer Alberto Korda
(see p176). Under the bust are
the words: Hasta la victoria
A parade in front of the Ministerio siempre (keep striving for
del Interior, Plaza de la Revolucin victory). The faade is
illuminated at night.
Plaza de la E Museo Postal Cubano The elegant wooden card-index
Revolucin 7 Ave Rancho Boyeros, 19 de Mayo y files in the Biblioteca Nacional
20 de Mayo. Tel (7) 882 8223. #
Map 2 E5. 8am5:30pm MonFri. 1 Jan, 1 P Biblioteca Nacional
May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec. & 8 Jos Mart
Plaza de la Revolucin has 6 (with charge). Plaza de la Revolucin.
been Cubas political, This fascinating postal Tel (7) 855 5442. # 8:15am6pm
administrative and cultural museum has occupied a small MonSat. -
centre since 1959. The square corner of the Ministry of The Jos Mart National
was designed in 1952 under Communications since 1965. Library has over two million
the Batista regime, and most Through the medium of books and is particularly
of the buildings visible today stamps, it illustrates the last strong in the humanities. The
also date from the 1950s. two centuries of Cuban United States embargo, plus
What had been known as history, from the end of the the Special Period crisis, have
the Plaza Cvica was renamed Colonial period to the years slowed the development of a
Plaza de la Revolucin following the fall of the Berlin library computerization
following Fidel Castros Wall, including the wars of programme, but all services
victory in 1959. independence, and figures are being modernized.
Though it does not like Machado, Batista and
distinguish itself by its Che Guevara. F Teatro Nacional
architecture or design, the The most curious item on Paseo y 39.
square is nonetheless an display is a fragment of a Tel (7) 8796 011, 8793 558.
important place to visit postal missile. In 1939, a Built with a striking convex
because of its historic and group of Cubans decided to faade, the National Theatre is
symbolic importance. It was use a missile for express Cubas most important cultural
the venue for the first mass airmail deliveries from complex. It was inaugurated
rallies following the triumph Havana to Matanzas, but the in June 1959. There are two
of the revolution and of the crude device exploded a few auditoriums: the Avellaneda,
festivities for the campaign minutes after take-off. with a seating capacity of
against illiteracy in 1961. 2,500, and the
Since 1959, military parades Covarrubia, which
and official celebrations have seats 800 and has
often attracted crowds of over a mural by Cuban
a million people. During artist Ren Porto-
these events the area fills with carrero (see p26).
people, and the speakers, Theatre pro-
including president Fidel grammes include
Castro, take their place on the lectures, courses,
podium next to the statue of theatre festivals,
Jos Mart, at the foot of guitar and jazz
the obelisk. concerts, and
On 25 January 1998 Pope ballet. There is
John Paul II celebrated mass also a caf chan-
from this podium together tant and a piano
with thousands of bar with live
worshippers (see p53). The Teatro Nacional seen from Marts memorial shows (see p124).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2526 and pp2769
 V E D A D O A N D P L A Z A 103

Memorial Jos Mart 8

Work on this monument in the middle

of the Plaza de la Revolucin began in
1953, on the 100th anniversary of
the birth of Cubas national hero. The
memorial was finished in 1958. It consists
of a 109-m (358-ft) tower representing a
five-pointed star and is built of grey
marble from the Isla de la Juventud. At
the foot stands a huge statue of Jos
Mart in a meditative pose. The actual
Mart Memorial is in the interior of the
base, which also houses the Sala de
Actos, an auditorium used for concerts,
lectures and poetry readings. . Panorama
On clear days, the mirador on top
A lift goes to the top of of the tower, the highest point in
the tower, which reaches Havana, affords a view of the
a height of 139 m (458 ft) entire city.The panorama shown
the monument stands here stretches from the Ministerio
on a hill 30 m (100 ft)
del Interior to the sea.
above sea level.

VISITORS CHECKLIST
Plaza de la Revolucin.
Map 2 E5.
Tel (7) 859 2347.
# 9am5pm MonSat.
&86=

. The Memorial
Two rooms contain manuscripts,
portraits and mementoes of
Mart; the third room describes
the history of the monument
and the square, while a fourth
puts on contemporary art exhibi-
tions. The mural in the lobby
features the patriots thoughts.

Statue of Jos Mart

STAR FEATURES The 18-m (59-ft) high,
. Panorama white marble statue, carved
on site by Juan Jos Sicre,
. The Memorial is surrounded by six
half columns.
 104 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Necrpolis de Coln 9 The Osario General,

the ossuary built in 1886,
Havanas monumental Columbus Cemetery is one is one of the cemeterys
of the largest in the world, occupying an area of oldest constructions.
56 ha (135 acres) with 53,360 plots, where some
two million people have been buried. It was
designed in the 1860s by the Spanish architect
Calixto de Loira, who based the layout on the rigor-
ously symmetrical plan of Roman military camps. It
was built between 1871 and 1886. Because of its
many sculptures and monuments in different styles
from eclectic to the boldest expressions of con-
temporary art the Necrpolis has been proclaimed
a national monument. However, although it is full of
fascinating funerary art, it is still the cemetery for
and of Havanas citizens. People come here to visit
their loved ones or simply to stroll around.

Martires del Asalto al Palacio Presidencial

This avant-garde memorial (1982) honours the
students killed during their attack on Batistas La Milagrosa

Presidential Palace in 1957.

The Pantheon of Catalina Lasa (see p99)

was commissioned by her second husband,
Juan Pedro Bar, who had her embalmed and
brought from Paris to Havana.

. La Piedad
de Rita Longa
This delicate marble
bas-relief piet Chapel of the
adorns the black Six Medical
Students
marble tomb of the
Aguilera family,
which was built
in the 1950s.

. Main Entrance
The statue in Carrara marble
of the three theological
virtues, Faith, Hope and
Charity, was
sculpted in 1904
by the Cuban
artist Jos Villalta de
Saavedra in Neo- Tomb of the author
Romantic style. Alejo Carpentier
(190480) Entrance
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2526 and pp2769
 V E D A D O A N D P L A Z A 105

Fuerzas Armadas VISITORS CHECKLIST

Revolucionarias
Monument (1955) Calle Zapata esq a Calle 12.
This pantheon Map 1 C5.
Tel (7) 830 4517.
houses the heroes of
# 8am5pm daily.
the Revolutionary &86
Armed Forces.

Panten de los Prelados

Capilla Central
Built in the late
1800s in the middle
of Avenida Coln,
the cemeterys main
avenue, this chapel
contains frescoes
by the Cuban artist
Miguel Melero.

The Falla Bonet Pantheon

is a truncated grey granite pyramid
with a statue of Christ by the
Spanish sculptor Mariano Benlliure.

. Las Vctimas de la Caridad

A monumental pantheon with
the tombs of the victims of an
accident that occurred in 1890
in the Isas hardware store.
The monument was
Tomb of
Generalissimo
designed by the Spanish
Mximo Gmez architects Agustn
(see p44) Querol and Julio Zapata.

LA MILAGROSA
The Miraculous One is the
tomb of Amelia Goyri de la
Hoz, who died in childbirth
in 1901, along with her baby.
She was only 24. In keeping
with the custom of the time,
she and the child were buried
together. According to popular
legend, a few years later the
tomb was opened and she was
found intact, holding her baby
in her arms. This miracle,
STAR SIGHTS and the fact that the bereaved
A mother placing flowers on husband went to her tomb
. Main Entrance the statue of La Milagrosa every day and never turned
his back to it, made Amelia
. La Piedad a symbol of motherly love. She became the protector of
de Rita Longa pregnant women and newborn children, and her tomb is a
pilgrimage site for future mothers, who ask for her blessing
. Las Vctimas and leave without turning their back to the tomb. The statue
de la Caridad placed at the tomb in 1909 is by Jos Villalta de Saavedra.
 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A 107

FUR THER AFIELD

B eyond the city of Havana, sights
of interest are rather more scat-
tered. The Miramar quarter lies
to the west of the city, and the Castillo
del Morro and Fortaleza de La Cabaa
enthusiastic beachgoers and the long
golden beaches at Playas del Este, east
of Havana, are especially popular des-
tinations at the weekend. Among the
sightseeing highlights are the favourite
defence fortresses, evidence of haunts of Ernest Hemingway, includ-
Havanas strategic importance, are ing Finca La Viga, the villa where he
physically separated from the city but wrote some of his best novels, and the
linked to it historically. Cubans are fishing village of Cojmar.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Museums Towns and Suburbs
Finca La Viga 0 Casablanca 5 KEY

Monuments and Churches Cojmar 8 Historic centre

Castillo del Morro 3 Guanabacoa 7
Built-up area
San Carlos de La Cabaa 4 Regla 6
Airport
Santuario de San Lzaro e Historic Places
Tropicana 2 Ferry
Parks and Gardens
Motorway
Jardn Botnico Nacional w Walks
Parque Lenin q A Walk through Miramar Major road

Beaches (pp1089) 1 Minor road

Playas del Este 9

GREATER HAVANA

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The lighthouse at Castillo del Morro, which can be seen from many parts of the old city
108 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

A Walk through Miramar 1

Miramar is the most elegant part of Havana as it

was before the Revolution, when the citys richest
inhabitants lived here. Life in this quarter revolves
around the busy Avenida 5, a broad, tree-lined avenue
flanked by splendid early 20th-century villas and now
boasting a number of luxury hotels. Administratively,
Miramar belongs to the municipality of Playa, as does
the adjacent Cubanacn quarter, where many foreign
embassies are located. Looking down Avenida 5, the main
avenue in Miramar

to the citys defence system imposing mansions built in

(see p110) for over two cen- the early decades of the 20th
turies. Opposite the fort is the century and many Art Deco
1830 2, a restaurant (see p278) and eclectic-style houses, most
in a house that once belonged of which were abandoned by
to Carlos Miguel de Cspedes, their owners after Fidel Castro
Minister of Public Works took power. The Cuban
under President Machado. government has turned many
of these buildings into
The compact Fuerte Along Avenida 5 ministries, embassies and
de la Chorrera (Quinta Avenida) even orphanages (an example
From here, follow the north- is the residence of the former
Arriving from Vedado ernmost tunnel under the President of the Republic
This walk begins at the Fuerte Almendares river to reach Grau San Martn at the corner
de Santa Dorotea de la Luna en Avenida 5, a broad, tranquil of Calle 14). Further down the
la Chorrera fort 1, a national avenue with shrubs and Avenida, at the corner of
monument. The fort, designed benches in the middle. On Calle 26, is the modern Iglesia
by Giovanni Battista Antonelli both sides of it are large, de Santa Rita 3, with three
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VISITORS CHECKLIST
0 metres 400

0 yards 400 Point of departure: Fuerte de la

Chorrera, Malecn.
ITINERARY Length: 5 km (3 miles).
Fuerte de Santa Dorotea de Stops: Mesn La Chorrera, Calle
Calzada 1252, before the tunnel;
la Luna en la Chorrera 1
Cafetera Rumbos, Playita 16;
Restaurante 1830 2
Bar Media Noche, Calle 4 e/ Ave
Iglesia de Santa Rita 3 3 y 5; Bar Dos Gardenias,
Maqueta de La Habana 4 Dolphins performing at the Ave 7 y Calle 28.
Acuario Nacional 5 Miramar aquarium

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2526 and pp2769
 F U R T H E R A F I E L D 109

distinctive tall arches on its The Seafront

faade. Pop in to see the Avenida 1 (primera)
statue of St Rita by lacks the liveliness and
Cuban sculptress Rita fascination of the
Longa, to the left of the Malecn, but the water is
entrance. Walk up Calle clear and there are peace-
28 to Avenida 3 ful spots for sunbathing,
(tercera). In the block such as Playita 16 (at the
above is the fascinating end of Calle 16). At the
Maqueta de La Habana corner of Calle 60 is the
museum 4, a detailed unmistakable pale blue
model of Havana building housing the
measuring about 10 sq m Acuario Nacional 5, the
(108 sq ft), with different city aquarium. Here,
areas colour-coded large saltwater tanks
according to construc- Statue by Rita reproduce an assort- The early 20th-century Fountain
tion date, showing Longa, Church ment of Caribbean of the Muses at the Tropicana
how the city devel- of Santa Rita and ocean habitats.
oped from Colonial About 3,500 speci- Tropicana 2
times onwards. Continue the mens represent 350 different
walk along Avenida 3, taking species of sea fauna. The Calle 72 e/ 41 y 45. Marianao.
in the stylish architecture, and most spectacular section is Tel (7) 2671 717, 2670 110.
then turn right to walk one the tank of Tursiops truncatus
block up to Avenida 1. dolphins, more commonly The most famous nightclub
known as bottle-nosed in Cuba, America and
dolphins. Dolphin perhaps the world is located
shows are also per- in the outskirts of Havana, in
formed here at regular the Marianao district. Many
intervals. The aquarium legendary figures of the 20th
complex is open from century have performed here,
10am to 6pm every including Josephine Baker,
day except Monday. Bola de Nieve, Rita Montaner
and Nat King Cole.
The Tropicana was
originally a farm estate
The model of Havana: in the foreground, belonging to Mina Prez
Castillo del Morro, behind, the Malecn Chaumont, the widow of a
wealthy man named Regino


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Perhaps surprisingly, given
the change of regime, the
Tropicana is still alive and
kicking. Fortunately, the trees
RO ALMENDARES in the original estate were
The Almendares river is left intact, so that today the
no longer crystal-clear, Tropicana stands in the
but it must have been middle of an extraordinary
cleaner in the past, tropical forest. At night,
because in the 17th floodlights illuminate the
century a Spanish bishop palm trees, partly hidden by
called Almendriz came clouds of artificial smoke. A
to Havana in bad health reminder of the Tropicanas
and fully recovered after golden age is the enormous
a stay along its banks. Bajo las Estrellas ballroom.
The rivers name was Thick vegetation in the Parque With its capacity of 1,000 it is
changed from Casigua- Almendares, Havanas forest one of the largest of its kind.
guas to Almendares At the main entrance is the
in the bishops honour. Along its west bank, by the Calle Fountain of the Muses (1952).
23 bridge from Vedado, is the Parque Almendares, an area The gardens statue of a ballet
filled with tropical plants and vegetation. dancer, by Rita Longa (1952),
is now the symbol of the club.
110 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Aerial view of the Castillo del Morro, situated on a rocky headland at the entrance to the bay of Havana

Castillo del in Cuba on their voyage to where plaques indicate the

Spain, and it was necessary to spot where the British opened
Morro 3 protect them. a breach in 1762, allowing
The original lighthouse on them to take the Morro and all
Carretera de la Cabaa, Habana
the Morrillo, the highest of Havana after a 40-day siege.
del Este. Parque Histrico Militar
point of the hill, was rebuilt On the northern side of the
Morro Cabaa Tel (7) 8620 617-
several times, until General complex is the Plataforma de
19, 8627 623. # 10am10pm daily.
Leopoldo ODonnel ordered la Reina, with defence walls
&860=(
a new one to be built in 1845. and a flight of steps leading to
Construction of this This still stands today. It the upper terrace. From here
fortress, which is made entirely of visitors can gain an overall
was designed by stone, and has its view of the fortress.
the Italian military original lamp, the
architect Giovanni rays of which shine
Battista Antonelli, for a radius of 30 San Carlos de
began in 1589 at km (20 miles). Today La Cabaa 4
the request of the the Castillo del Morro
governor, Juan de is open to visitors as Carretera de la Cabaa,
Texeda. The function the Parque Habana del Este.
of the Castillo de los Histrico-Militar. # See Castillo del Morro. - 0
Tres Reyes del Morro The old lamp in the Many tourists and
(its full title) was to Morro lighthouse locals come simply After the British conquest
detect the approach to admire the out- of Cuba in 1762, it was 11
of any enemy (pirates look, as the fortress affords a months before the Spaniards
especially). Various treasures magnificent view of the city regained Havana. The bitter
of the New World were and port of Havana. experience of foreign
periodically concentrated in Access to the castles is occupation convinced them
the port when ships docked through an impressive gallery, of the need to fortify the hill

HAVANAS DEFENCES Havana was the most important port in the

New World in the 1700s. It was a highly prized
target for enemies and pirates because of its
+ extremely favourable strategic position in the
Fuerte
de Cojmar
Caribbean, and it was also the most fortified
Castillo EASTERN city in any Spanish colony. Beyond the
del Morro HAVANA
+ maritime canal affording access to the Bay of
Castillo + San Carlos
Havana were the two large fortresses of Morro
de la Punta + de La Cabaa

+Castillo de
la Real Fuerza
and Cabaa. These two, together with the
+ castles of Real Fuerza, Punta, Atars and Prnc-
+ ipe and the city walls, constituted for centuries
Fuerte de BAY OF HAVANA
Santa Dorotea + the citys impressive defence and attack system.
de Luna Castillo
en La Chorrera de Atars From the outlying forts of Cojmar and La
Chorrera, to the east and west respectively,
any enemy approach could be sighted.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2526 and pp2769
 F U R T H E R A F I E L D 111

dominating the port in a more However, the one

effective manner, so, on 4 museum not to
November 1763, construction miss is the
work began on the new Comandancia
Cabaa fortress. No fewer del Che: on 3
than 4,000 men laboured on January 1959
the project, including Mexican the barbudos
and Indian prisoners (as Castro and
transported from the Yucatn his bearded
peninsula in conditions of revolutionaries
semi-slavery. were known)
The new fortification cost 14 occupied La
million pesos, a sum so large Cabaa and set
that, according to an old up their head-
legend, when King Carlos III quarters in the
of Spain was informed of the 19th-century
expense, he asked for a building that was
spyglass and reputedly once the residence
commented: Such an of the Spanish
expensive construction should military governor.
be visible from Madrid. Today it is a
La Cabaa, which extends museum
for more than 700 m (2,300 ft) Entrance to the de La Cabaa parish church, containing
along the entrance canal of which stands in the fortress parade ground various items that
the bay, is a huge 10-ha belonged to Che
(25-acre) polygon designed in Terraza de San Agustn, where Guevara, including his
keeping with the principles of the poet Juan Clemente Zenea weapons, glasses and camera.
French military schools, but was executed for his separatist The revolutionarys original
with detailing by the Spanish ideas in 1871. In the same area office, which has been left
engineer Silvestre Abarca. some Soviet nuclear missiles, intact, is also open to visitors.
With its crown-shaped plan, it left over from the 1962 Cuban
is considered a fine example Missile Crisis (see p52), are on
of a bastion-type defence display. Casablanca 5
fortification. The Museo Monogrfico
A visit to the fortress offers a illustrates the history of the Regla (Havana). 4 from Muelle de
variety of experiences. The for- fortress through documents Luz, La Habana Vieja, every 30 mins.
tresss central thoroughfare and photographs. The Museo Tel (7) 797 7473.
leads up to the Baluardo di San de Armas y Fortificaciones
Ambrosio bastion and the is a military museum. This fishing village was
built in the 1700s on the
other side of the Bay of
THE CAONAZO Havana from the city.
Every evening, at 9pm exactly, the picturesque Caonazo Casablanca is best
ceremony is held in the La Cabaa fortress. On the hour, a known for the huge
volley of cannon shots is fired by a group of young Cristo de la Habana,
soldiers of the Revolutionary Armed Forces, dressed in an 18-m (60-ft) tall
18th-century uniforms. This theatrical ceremony is white marble statue of
interesting from the historical point of view: in the Colonial Christ, which looms
period, a volley of cannon shots was fired at the end of over the village. The
each day to tell citizens that the city gates were closed and work of the Cuban
access to the bay had been blocked by a chain (see p85). sculptress Jilma
Madera (1958), it
was commis-
sioned by The colossal Cristo
President de La Habana
Batistas wife,
Marta. She had made a vow
that she would finance a
large statue of Christ if her
husband survived the attack
by students on the presiden-
tial palace in 1957, during
which he risked his life.
The statue was completed a
week prior to the Revolution.
It can be seen from many
The Caonazo ceremony, a commemoration in historic costume parts of the city and is
familiar to all Cubans.
112 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Regla 6 an ornate golden altar into Guanabacoa has several

which is incorporated the interesting churches. Of these,
Havana. * 47,000. 4 from figure of the dark-skinned the Ermita de Potos in
Muelle de la Luz, Habana Vieja, every Virgen. particular is well worth a visit.
30 mins; (7) 977 473. The Liceo Artstico y Built in 1644, it is one of the
Literario was opened by oldest and most original
Regla lies on the east coast of Jos Mart in 1879 with a Colonial period churches.
the Bay of Havana, a few famous speech on Cuban The interesting Museo
minutes by ferry from Muelle independence. Municipal de Guanabacoa,
de la Luz. The town was located in a well-restored
founded in 1687 and over the Colonial house, illustrates
years grew in economic Guanabacoa 7
the history of the town. The
importance as a fishing port dominant figure is that of
and centre for huge sugar Havana. * 100,000. @ Pepe Antonio, the local
warehouses. In the 19th hero in the struggle
century freed slaves settled in After its foundation in against the British in
Regla, and there is still a 1607, this town became the 18th century.
strong Afro-Cuban culture an obligatory port of call The museum places
here today. for the slave traffic, particular emphasis on
The church of Nuestra which explains its fame the santera and Palo
Seora de la Virgen de as a city associated with Monte religions and
Regla was built here in 1687. Afro-Cuban culture. on the rituals of
A modest structure, it stands Its name, of Indian the Abaku cult
on a small hill from which origin, means (see p23). An
there are views of the bay. land of many impressive piece
The humble interior includes waters: there in this section is
are several the Mano poderosa,
springs in this area The Mano Poderosa in a multicoloured
which at one time the Guanabacoa wooden sculpture
encouraged wealthy Municipal Museum that stands approxi-
Habaneros to build mately 1 m (3 ft)
homes here. Today, high. According to legend,
Guanabacoa is proud of its the sculpture belonged to
Colonial houses and of having a woman who was able to
been the birthplace of three make contact with the dead.
leading 20th-century Cuban Traditional Afro-Cuban
musicians: pianist and events are sometimes held
composer Ernesto Lecuona, in the courtyard.
singer Rita Montaner, and
Interior of the Regla church with its chansonnier Ignacio Villa,
ornate high altar better known as Bola de Nieve. E Museo Municipal
de Guanabacoa
Calle Mart 108, esq. Versalles.
LA VIRGEN DE REGLA Tel (7) 797 9117. # 10am6pm
TueSat, 9am1pm Sun. & 8 6
The Virgin of Regla has been the
patron saint of fishermen and
Havana since 1714. The Neo-
Classical sanctuary dedicated Cojmar 8
to her contains an icon of a
dark-skinned Virgin holding a Havana. * 20,100.
white child that the faithful n Hotel Panamericano Resort,
call La Negra. The icons (7) 766 1010.
origins are not known but one
legend suggests it acquired its A charming village with one-
colour while being taken storey wooden houses
across the Black Sea. The often with a garden, small
statue was brought from Spain porch and courtyard at the
by a hermit in 1696, and in the back Cojmar was once
1900s was watched over by a inhabited only by fishermen.
certain Panchita Crdenas, Now there are also many
whose modest home next to La Virgen de Regla, the elderly people, including
the church is now open to protector of fishermen writers and artists, who have
worshippers. For followers of chosen to leave the capital for
santera the Virgen de Regla is also Yemay, the patroness of a more peaceful life.
the sea and mother of all men, to whom food, flowers, In the 1950s however, there
candles and sweets are offered. On her feast day (Sep 8) the was only one author to be
icon is borne through the town. seen on the streets of Cojmar:
Ernest Hemingway. Many of
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2526 and pp2769
 F U R T H E R A F I E L D 113

their visit to Havana. Bear in

mind, however, that this area
is also a popular haunt of
jineteros (see p300), though in
places security guards have
been drafted in to deter them.
Arriving from central
Havana, the first beach is
Bacuranao, a peaceful spot
and a favourite with families.
However, the loveliest places
on the riviera are Santa Mara
del Mar and Guanabo. Santa
The 17th-century fort at Cojmar Mara del Mar is the most
popular with tourists. It has
the local fishermen were his Playas del Este 9 the best beach, lined with
friends and he liked to play pine and coconut trees, as
dominoes and drink rum Havana. well as a good choice of
while listening to their stories. hotels and sports. Guanabo is
He made this village the Havana is one of the few more traditional, with small
setting for his famous novel cities in the world to have houses, restaurants and
The Old Man and the Sea. sizeable beaches only a 20- shops; at weekends this is the
In the small square named minute drive from the city liveliest place along the coast
after Hemingway there is a centre. The Playas del Este when Habaneros arrive by the
monument featuring a bust consist of a stretch of about hundred. The Bajo de las
of the author a faithful 50 km (31 miles) of fine sand Lavanderas, close to the
copy of the one in El Floridita and crystal-clear water, easy shore, is a delight for scuba
(see p72). It is here thanks to reach via a good, fast road, and skin divers, and deep-sea
to the authors fishermen with hotels, villages and fishing trips can be arranged
friends, who donated tourist facilities of every kind. at the Marina Veneciana.
anchors, hooks and tools The beaches can offer a good A small island, Mi Cayito,
to pay for the casting. compromise for people who lies at the mouth of the Itabo
Nearby, on the seafront, is want to spend some of their river. There are fine views
a small fort, which was built holiday at the seaside during from Mirador Bellomonte.
as the easternmost defence
point of Havana in 1646. It
was designed by Giovanni
Battista Antonelli, architect
of the Castillo del Morro
(see p110).
Cojmar is also the home
of Hemingways favourite
restaurant, La Terraza
(see p278). It is still as elegant
and well-run as it was during
Hemingways time. The
cocktail lounge has a
splendid wooden bar and is
an ideal spot to enjoy a drink. One of the Playas del Este beaches popular with Havana residents

PLAYAS DEL ESTE 0 kilometres 1.5

KEY
Major road
0 miles 1.5
Playa El Mgano

Mirador
Playa Santa Mara del Mar Bellomonte Marina
Playa Boca Ciega
Mi Cayito Veneciana
Playa Guanabo

HAVANA
VIA BLANCA
462
Itabo

VIA BLANCA
BARRERAS

MINAS CAMPO FLORIDO

114 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Ernest Hemingway in Cuba

The great American author fell Gellhorn (whom he married in
in love with Cuba on his first 1940). His bond with Cuba lasted
visit in 1932, attracted initially 20 years, through the Batista
by the marlin fishing. It was not period and the beginning of the
until 1939, however, that Revolution, and longer, in fact,
Hemingway decided to move to than his relationship with Martha
the island, initially settling down Gellhorn. Hemingways last wife,
in the Ambos Mundos hotel in Period print of Mary Welsh (married in 1946),
Old Havana (see p253). Having the Ambos joined the writer in Cuba and
decided to stay on, he found a Mundos hotel lived with him at Finca La Viga.
quiet villa outside the town in The villa is now a museum
which to write, Finca La Viga, where (p115). He eventually returned to the
he lived at first with journalist Martha US in 1960, a year before his suicide.

Hemingway wrote his most famous novels in

Cuba. He was at Finca La Viga in 1954
when he found out that he had received the Nobel
A lover of cocktails, Hemingway Prize. This prize belongs to Cuba, since my works
was a regular at Bodeguita del were created and conceived in Cuba, with the
Medio (see p65) and El Floridita inhabitants of Cojmar, of which I am a citizen.
(see p72). Both bars were a stones With these words, Hemingway placed the prize at
throw from his room on the fifth the foot of the Madonna del Cobre (see p221).
floor of the Ambos Mundos Hotel.
The writer helped to invent
the daiquiri. Ernest
A marlin fishing
tournament Hemingway
is held every year at
the Hemingway Martha
Gregorio Fuentes Marina. Gellhorn

THE SEA AND FISHING

Hemingway loved the sea
and was passionate about
swordfish and marlin fishing.
He practised the sport with
great commitment and courage
not on a luxury yacht, but
on a small fishing boat, the
famous Pilar together with
a fisherman, Gregorio
Fuentes, who also
became a good
friend. The boat
was moored at
the picturesque
village of Cojmar.
 F U R T H E R A F I E L D 115

Finca La Viga 0
Calle Viga y Stheinhard, San Francisco
de Paula, Havana. San Francisco de
Paula. Tel (7) 691 0809. # 10am
5pm MonSat, 10am1pm Sun. &
8 6 (with charge). = -

At San Francisco de Paula,

on the outskirts of Havana, is
the only residence Ernest
Hemingway ever had outside
the US. He lived here, in the
periods between his various
foreign trips, for almost
20 years.
The villa, built in 1887 to a
design by Catalan architect
Miguel Pascual y Baguer, was
bought by Hemingway on 28
December 1940. It was made
a public museum in 1962, as
soon as news of the writers
suicide in the US reached Cuba.
Everything in the villa is in
the same meticulous order it
was in when Hemingway lived
here. There is his library with
its more than 9,000 books;
various hunting trophies from
African safaris hanging in the
living room; the authors
personal possessions, such as The faade of Finca La Viga, surrounded by tropical vegetation
his weapons and typewriter,
and valuable artworks, from Cojmar to the museum submarines that were in the
including a ceramic plate by and placed in a specially built area to sink ships laden
Picasso. The fact that all these pavilion in the former tennis with sugar intended for the
objects have been left just as court. The Pilar was a com- Allied troops.
they were creates the fortable and fast boat made of
atmosphere of a lived-in black American oak, and the Environs
house rather than a museum. author loved ploughing Near Hemingways villa is the
Two curious features in the through the waves on fishing village of Santa Mara del
garden are the pet cemetery expeditions with his friend Rosario, founded in 1732 by
(Hemingway had about 50 Gregorio Fuentes. During Count Don Jos Bayona y
cats during his lifetime), and World War II he used it to Chacn on the estate of his
the Pilar, the authors fishing patrol the sea north of Cuba, large sugar factory. A real gem
boat, which was transferred on the lookout for Nazi here is the church of the same
name (it is also known
as Catedral de los
Campos de Cuba),
notable for its splendid
mudjar ceilings.
The church was
designed in 176066
by architect Jos
Perera. The austere
faade is reminiscent of
the Spanish missions
in the western US,
while the interior con-
tains some unusually
lavish elements, such
as the extravagantly
gilded high altar, and
paintings attributed
to Nicols de la
Escalera, one of
The living room of Hemingways villa, with hunting trophies on the walls Cubas early artists.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2526 and pp2769
116 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

Parque Lenin q
Calle 100 y Cortina de la Presa,
Arroyo Naranjo, Havana. Tel (7) 644
8880, 643 1868. # 9am5pm Tue
Sun. 6 0 - S ExpoCuba
Tel (7) 697 9318. # WedSun. &
Parque Zoolgico Nacional
Tel (7) 664 7637, 644 7613. #
9am3pm WedSun. &

Lenin Park, 20 km (12 miles)

south of Central Havana,
occupies an area of 745 ha
(1,840 acres). It was created
in the 1970s as an amusement
park for children and an area The impressive monument to Lenin designed by Lev Korbel
of greenery for a city in
continuous expansion. admire the scenery. The park Parque Lenin it is also easy to
In the same period, thanks to is popular with Habaneros, reach the 340-ha (840-acre)
an initiative by Celia Snchez, who love to walk among the Parque Zoolgico Nacional,
Castros personal assistant dur- palm, cedar, pine and araucaria where animals live freely in
ing the Revolution, the Russian trees. There is also a freshwater various natural habitats, often
architect Lev Korbel designed aquarium, stables, outdoor without cages. The savannah
the vast monument honouring cinema, art gallery, swimming area is populated with zebras,
the Soviet leader. The statue of pools, caf and the Las Runas hippopotamuses, giraffes and
Lenin, which weighs 1,200 tons restaurant. The latter occupies antelope. Another area is the
and is 9 m (30 ft) high, was a 1960s building that incor- habitat of lions.
completed in 1982 under the porates the crumbling walls
supervision of Antonio Quin- of an old plantation house.
tana Simonetti, who also Jardn Botnico
designed the park. Environs Nacional w
The most enjoyable way of Near the park, among gardens
getting around Parque Lenin is and tree-lined paths, is the Carretera del Roco km 3, Calabazar,
to take the narrow-gauge train largest exhibition centre in Arroyo Naranjo (Havana). Tel (7) 643
which follows a route of 9.5 Cuba, ExpoCuba, which stages 7278, 697 9364. # 9am4:30pm
km (6 miles) in 45 minutes, various exhibitions and shows daily. 1 Jan, 26 Jul, 25 Dec. &
making several stops. The all year round. In autumn the 86
trains old steam engines were pavilions are occupied by the
used until a few years ago by famous Feria Internacional de This enormous 600-ha (1,500-
Cubas sugar factories to trans- La Habana, which offers an acre) botanical garden, set in
port sugar cane. New open overview of Cubas economic an area of woods and
carriages allow passengers to and socio-political life. From cultivated fields, contains

The tranquil Japanese Garden, part of the Jardn Botnico Nacional

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2526 and pp2769
 F U R T H E R A F I E L D 117

plants from all over the world.

These are on display to the
public and are also studied by
specialists. The huge gardens
are divided into geographical
zones Cuba, America, Africa,
Asia and Oceania. The Carib-
bean section, which takes up
one-fifth of the garden, has
7,000 flowering plants, half of
which are unique to Cuba.
There are also curiosities
such as the Archaic Woods
and the Palmetum. The former
has plants descended from
species that thrived in ancient
geological eras, such as the The Sanctuary of San Lzaro at El Rincn
Palma corcho, a fossil species
that can still be found in the In Afro-Cuban religions
Pinar del Ro region. The Santuario Lazarus corresponds to Babal
Palmetum has a large collec- de San Lzaro e Ay. Both saints are represen-
tion of palm trees from all ted in folk iconography as old
tropical latitudes. Calzada de San Antonio km. 23, men in tatters and covered
A must is the cactus area El Rincn, Santiago de las Vegas with sores. In the case of the
near the entrance. However, (Havana). Tel 683 2396. # African saint, the skin disease
the most interesting part of 7am6pm daily. 5 9am Wed, Fri & was supposedly punishment
this rather sparse park is the Sun. _ Feast Day of St Lazarus, Dec from Olofi, the father of all the
Jardn Japons, a Japanese 16 and 17. gods (see p22), for the saints
garden with artificial water- adulterous and libertine past.
falls and a pond with a This sanctuary, dedicated to On 17 December, the simple
gazebo. It was donated to St Lazarus, the patron saint of white sanctuary welcomes
Cuba by the local Asian the sick, lies in the small thousands of worshippers,
community in 1989. village of El Rincn, outside who flock here to make vows
Another fascinating sight Santiago de las Vegas, next to or ask the saint to intercede
here is the orchid garden, an old lepers hospital (now a for them. Before the high altar,
with numerous varieties. dermatological hospital). or in front of the image of St
Lazarus (who is called mila-
gro so, or the miraculous
ITALO CALVINO AND CUBA one), at a side altar, pilgrims
Santiago de las Vegas, most famous for its San Lzaro light candles, leave flowers
sanctuary, was also the birthplace of the great Italian and make offerings.
novelist Italo Calvino (19231985). His father Mario was an The water from the fountain
esteemed agronomist who went to Cuba in 1918, following to the right of the sanctuary,
his appointment as director of the Estacin Experimental considered miraculous by
de Santiago de las Vegas. This experimental field station believers, is used to cure
covered 50 ha (123 acres) of land and employed 100 diseases and ease pain.
university graduates and 63 office workers. While in Cuba,
Mario Calvino found ways of making genetic improvements
to sugar cane and introduced new plants, including
pumpkin and lettuce. He also worked on tobacco, corn and
sorghum, while his wife Eva wrote articles exhorting Cuban
women to emancipate themselves and acquire
new dignity through education and training.
When the Calvino family returned to
San Remo in Italy, they took not only a
son who would become a great writer,
but also mango, avocado, flam-
boyant, cherimoya and even sugar
cane seeds, which they cultivated
at the San Remo Experimental
Agriculture Station. In 1964
Italo Calvino was named a
member of the jury for the
Casa de las Amricas prize (see
p100) and visited Cuba, where
Author Italo Calvino, born at he returned to his birthplace
Santiago de las Vegas and also met Che Guevara. The altar of St Lazarus with flowers
left by worshippers
118 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

HAVANA STREET FINDER

T he page grid shown on
the Area by Area map
below shows the parts
of Havana covered by maps
in this section. All map
for information. The street
name (and sometimes
house number) is followed
by either e/ (entre, or
between) and the names
references in this guide of the two streets between
Street sign, corner of Calle 13
refer to the maps in the and Ave de los Presidentes which the address you
Str eet Finder section. want is located, or esq.
Addresses are indicated in keeping (esquina, or corner) followed by
with the system used in Cuba so that the name of the street on the cross-
people will understand your requests road where the address is located.

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0 metres 700

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SCALE OF MAPS
0 metres 300

0 yards 300

KEY
Major sight

Place of interest
CUBAN STREET NAMES
Since many streets changed name Other buildings
after the revolution, some have both Parking
an official name and an unofficial,
more commonly used one. Where Tourist information
this occurs in this guide, the latter is Hospital
Tile street sign in followed by the former in brackets.
Habana Vieja In Vedado the streets are divided Police station
into neat 100-m (109-yd) long blocks Church
or cuadras. The grid layout of the streets in this district
is easy to follow. The streets parallel to the seafront are Post office
named with odd numbers, while the cross streets are Coach station
indicated either with letters (from A to P) or even
numbers. Street signs in the form of small stone blocks Train station
(see above) give coordinates at every corner. Ferry
 H AVA N A S T R E E T F I N D E R 119

Street Finder Index

Calle 1 1 B2 Campanario 3 C2 Humboldt 2 F1 Perseverancia 3 C2
2 1 B2 Caongo 3 C2 & 3 A1 Picota 4 E3
3 1 B2 Capricho 4 D1 Plasencia 3 A4
4
5
1 B3
1 B3
Crcel
Crdenas
4 D1
4 D3
II Pocitos
Porvenir
3 A3
4 A3
2 D1
6 1 B3 Carlos M Cspedes, Ave Indio 3 C4 Pozos Dulces 2 F4
7 1 B3 (Puerto, Avenida del) 4 D1 Industria 4 D2 Presidentes, Ave de los 1 C1
8 1 B3 Carlos M de Cspedes, Infanta, Calzada de 2 F2 Prncipe 2 F2
9 2 D1 Avenida 2 D5 & 3 A4 & 3 A2
10 1 B3 Carmen 3 B4 Inquisidor 4 F3 Progreso 4 D2
11 1 A2 Carpinetti 4 F2 Italia (Galiano), Ave de 3 C2 Puerta Cerrada 3 C5
12 1 B3 Castillejo 3 A3 Puerto, Avenida del 4 D5
13
14
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16 1 A3 Chacn 4 E2 Avenida de 2 E5
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17 1 A4 Julia Borges 2 D5 Rastro 3 C4
18 1 A4 Churruca 4 F2 Rayo 3 C4
Cienfuegos 4 D4 Jstiz 4 F2
19 1 A5 K 2 D1 Refugio 4 D1
19 de Mayo 2 E4 Clavel 3 A5 Requena 2 F4
Collado 2 F4
20 de Mayo, Avenida 2 F5
21 1 A5 & 3 A4 LL Retiro
Reunin
3 A4
3 C4
22 1 A4 Coln 4 D2 2 E1
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24 1 A4 Compostela 4 E2 Lamparilla 4 E2
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24 de Febrero
25
2 F5
1 A5 & Concordia 2 F2 Leonor Prez (Paula)
Linas, Pasaje
4 E4
3 B4
S
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26 1 A5 Lnea 1 A3
27 1 C4 Condesa 3 B4 (Carlos III), Avenida 2 F4
Consulado 4 D1 Lpez 4 F2 & 3 A4
27 de Noviembre 2 E3 Luaces 2 F4
28 1 A5 Corrales 3 C4 San Antonio 2 D5
Crecherie 1 C4 Lucena 3 B2 San Antonio Chiquito 1 B5
29 2 D4 Lugareo 2 F4
30 1 A5 Crespo 3 C2 San Carlos 3 B4
Cristo 4 D3 Luz 4 E3 San Francisco 3 A3
31 2 D4
Cruz del Padre 3 A5 San Ignacio 4 E2
33
35
2 D4
2 D5 Cuarteles 4 E1 M San Isidro
San Joaqun
4 E4
3 A5
37 2 D5 Cuba 4 E2 M 2 E1
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39 2 D5 San Lazaro 2 F2
41 2 D5 Curazao 4 E3 & 3 A1
Maloja 3 A4 & 3 A2

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3 B5
3 C2
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Agramonte 4 D2 Desamparado 4 E4 Mas 2 F5 San Nicols 3 C2
Aguacate 4 E2 Diaria 3 C5 Matadero 3 B5 San Pedro 4 F3
Aguiar 4 E2 Divisin 3 B4 Mximo Gmez (Monte) 3 B3 San Rafael 2 F3
Aguila 3 C2 Dragones 3 C3 Mazn 2 F3 & 3 A3
Aguire 2 F3 Mercaderes 4 E2 Santa Clara 4 F3
Alambique 4 D4 E Mercado
Merced
3 B5
4 E3
Santa Marta 3 A5
Almendares 2 F4 E 1 C1 Santa Rosa 3 B5
Amargura 4 E2 Economia 4 D3 Misin 3 D4 Santiago 3 B3
Amenidad 3 A5 Egido 4 E4 Misiones, Ave de las Santo Toms 3 A4
Amezaga 2 F5 Empedrado 4 E2 (Monserrate) 4 D2 Santo Toms, Pasaje 3 B4
Amistad 3 C2 Enrique Barnet (Estrella)3 A4 Montero Snchez 1 D4 Sardinas 2 F5
Angeles 3 C4 Escobar 3 B2 Montoro 2 F4 Simn Bolivar (Reina),
Animas 3 A2 Espada 2 F2 Morales 3 A4 Avenida 3 C3
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Antn Recio 3 C4 Muralla 4 E3
Apodaca 4 D4 Espada (Vives), Sol 4 E3
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B Flores 3 B5 O Territorial 2 E5
B 1 C2 Florida 4 D4 O 2 F1 Tetun 3 B3
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124 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

ENTER TAINMENT IN HAVANA

T he lively, pleasure-loving
capital of Cuba of fers
entertainment to suit
visitors of all ages and tastes.
Theatres, cinemas and concert
is world-class. You can dance til dawn
in the discos, while those
who prefer more traditional
entertainment can inves-
tigate the neighbourhood
halls are active year-round, while Casa de la Trova or Casa de
the citys annual ballet, cinema and la Cultura. The bar scene is some-
jazz festivals draw admirers from what desultory, and many venues
afar. Havana has the biggest and best that pre-date the revolution are rough
nightclubs in the country, offering all around the edges, but this adds atmos-
kinds of music from salsa and jazz Ballet Nacional phere to Havanas sense of a
to bolero to rap. The cabaret scene de Cuba dancer temps perdu.

The Teatro Nacional de Cuba,

a complex with several audi-
toriums (see p102), often
hosts major international
companies. The Teatro
Hubert de Blanck specializes
in contemporary drama,
while the Teatro Mella has a
more varied programme. The
Teatro Triann and Teatro El
Stano are committed to
presenting experimental
theatre. The Caf Teatro Brecht
opens only at weekends to a
limited audience.
The National Symphony performing in Havana Cuban comedy tends
towards bawdy slapstick. The
INFORMATION in advance from the venues best venues are Casa de la
ticket office, from tourist Comedia, offering shows at
The airport, hotels and travel agencies in the hotels or weekends, Teatro Fausto and
agents all distribute information through Paradiso: Promotora Caf Teatro Brecht.
brochures. Bienvenidos a Cuba de Turismo Cultural.
is a small guide giving details Tickets for cabaret shows at CLASSICAL MUSIC
of the most important shows the world-famous Tropicana & OPERA
and events. Cartelera, a bi- nightclub and Cabaret
weekly newspaper and the Parisienne can be obtained at There are two main classical
monthly Guia Cultural de la the tour bureaus of any tourist music venues in Havana. The
Habana provide addresses of hotel. For smaller shows and recently restored Teatro
nightclubs and other venues, events, you will need to stand Amadeo Roldn is home to the
with details of shows. The in line on the day or night of National Symphony Orchestra.
Granma daily lists major the performance.
events, which are also broad-
cast on Cubavisin (channel THEATRE
6) Thursdays at 10:25pm.
Visitors can tune into Radio Theatre has a long and
Tano (93.3FM), which broad- illustrious tradition in Havana,
casts in Spanish and English. though the range of offerings
Havanas thriving under- has been severely curtailed
ground scene requires seeking for political reasons since the
out. The corner of Calles 23 Revolution. The Festival
and L (outside Cine Yara) is a Internacional del Teatro, held
good place to find out about every two years, offers both
impromptu parties and shows mainstream and experimental
especially for the gay scene. theatre, and some companies,
such as El Pblico, have their
BUYING TICKETS own venues. Havanas most
important and active theatres
To avoid long queues for fes- are located mostly in the
tivals and other major events, Vedado quarter and are pre- The impressive exterior of the Gran
visitors can purchase tickets sented exclusively in Spanish. Teatro de la Habana
 E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N H AVA N A 125

The Gran Teatro de la Habana

(see p82), which has excellent
acoustics, hosts opera and
other productions.
The lovely Basilica de San
Francisco de Ass (see p74) is
an atmospheric venue for
choral and chamber music
concerts. The Agrupacin
Anfitriona de Msica Antigua
Ave Longa puts on Renais-
sance and Baroque concerts in
the Iglesia de San Francisco de
Paula. The tiny Museo Nacional
de la Msica hosts classical
concerts at weekends. A traditional son band performing on the street

BALLET at the Asociacin Cultural Habana and Miramar, where

Yoruba de Cuba, and at Rumba nightly events dont warm up
Classical dance is popular in del Callejn de Hamel in Centro until after midnight. The Caf
Cuba thanks to the promotion Habana, one of the citys most Cantante, in the Teatro
of the Ballet Nacional de Cuba, popular weekend venues. Nacional, has inexpensive
founded by the international Visitors are also welcomed salsa sessions on Friday after-
ballet star Alicia Alonso. This at Saln de Ensayo Benny noons, as well as nightly live
institution organizes an annual Mor, where folkloric groups bands. The Saln Turquino,
international ballet festival and practise danzn, guanguanc on the top floor of the Tryp
promotes specialist courses for and other dances. Habana Libre hotel, is the
foreign dancers. Performances classiest salsa spot. Like many
take place in the Gran Teatro RAP, ROCK & JAZZ Cuban nightclubs, no singles
de la Habana (see p82). Visitors are allowed and foreigners
are often shocked to discover Rap is very popular in Cuba, are likely to be approached
that many performances feature and an international festival is by potential partners hoping
taped music. The Teatro Mella held every August in Alamar, to have their entrance paid.
hosts occasional ballet shows. where the Casa de la Cultura Caf Concierto Gato Tuerto is
Alamar hosts live perfor- famous as home of the blend
mances, as do the Teatro of Cuban and North American
Amrica in Centro Habana music called feeling. This small
and La Madriguera in the venue fills quickly, so arrive
once-lovely botanical gardens. early. Fans of the bolero
The Teatro Karl Marx is the should head to Dos Gardenias.
main venue for live shows by Among the best discos are
big-name rock and pop stars. the open-air Macumba, which
Rock music is also played and allows couples only and
danced to in the Playas Saln draws Havanas equivalent of
Rosado Benny Mor. the jet set; and Saln Rosado
Rio Club was the most Benny Mor, where live bands
famous rock venue in Havana stir up some of the most
in the 1970s, when it was sensuous dancing in town.
La Zorra y El Cuervo a popular and called Johnny Club. People
crowded jazz venue still refer to it by its old name.
Cubans love jazz, and Cubas
FOLK & leading jazz musicians are
TRADITIONAL MUSIC popular the world over. An
annual jazz festival is held in
Traditional Cuban music covers venues throughout Havana.
a broad range of styles includ- Among the best of these is La
ing rumba, guanguanc, son, Zorra y el Cuervo, a cramped
danzn, bolero and punto and smokey basement bar.
guajiro (see pp3031). Cubas top performers, such
Some of the best perfor- as Chucho Valds, play the
mances are based on Afro- spacious Jazz Caf.
Cuban forms, as perfected by
the Conjunto Folklrico NIGHTCLUBS & DISCOS
Nacional, which performs an
open-air rumba every Saturday Salsa is the staple of nightclubs
and hosts lessons for Cubans and discos. Havanas hottest
and foreigners. Similar perfor- salsa venues are the twin A live musical performance at one
mances are hosted on Sundays Casas de la Msica in Centro of Havanas many nightclubs
126 H AVA N A A R E A B Y A R E A

CABARET

The most exotic of venues, and

a long-time Cuban tradition,
cabarets espectculos are
famous for their extravagantly
and minimally dressed
female dancers in sequins and
feathers. The music is first-rate,
ranging from salsa to crooners
performing traditional boleros.
The most famous is the
Tropicana (see p109) featuring
more than 200 performers.
Though expensive, it offers a
true spectacular with grandiose Dancers at the Tropicana, Havanas most famous and colourful cabaret
choreography, lavish costumes
and legendary dancers. The CINEMA for Havanas bohemians. The
Cabaret Parisienne is the most nearby Casa de la Amistad is a
important of the hotel shows, Cuba has a thriving cinema lively venue for music and
while the Cabaret Saln Rojo industry. The annual December dance. UNEACs Casa de la
and Cabaret Copa Room are Festival Internacional del Cine Poesa has poetry readings.
among the better small shows. Latinoamericano, a major
international film festival, is CULTURAL TOURS
BARS organized by the Instituto
Cubano del Arte e Industria Week-long holiday packages
The colourful bar-life of pre- Cinematogrfica (ICAIC), are available from Paradiso:
revolutionary days is a mere which presides over the Promotora de Turismo Cultural
memory today. Nonetheless, activities of the seventh art (see Ticket Agencies). The cost
most upscale tourist hotels in Cuba (see p29) and also runs includes accommodation in a
have classy bars (albeit filled the Cine Charles Chaplin. 4-star hotel, lunch and dinner
with foreigners). Most of the major cinemas in typical Cuban restaurants,
Three bars associated with are in the Vedado district. The transport, guides, entrance to
Hemingway remain among main one is Cine Yara. Cine museums and theatres,
the citys most colourful. La Riviera screens mostly Holly- meetings with Cuban artists
Bodeguita del Medio (see wood action movies, while and visits to schools and
p65), a cramped bar where Cine La Rampa shows mainly specialist educational centres.
the author popularized mojitos, Cuban and Latin American The Cuba: Forma y Color
features troubadors. The Dos films. Havanas largest cinema programme focuses on art gal-
Hermanos serves better mojitos is the multi-screen Cine Payret, leries, serigraphy (silk screen)
and draws a local clientele. in Centro Habana; it has workshops and artists studios,
Famous for its daiquiris, El midnight shows at weekends. while Cuba Paraso de la
Floridita (see p72) exudes a Salsa features salsa classes,
fin-de-sicle ambience. CULTURAL CENTRES and Esta es mi Msica
In Vedado, the Hotel educates visitors about Cubas
Nacionals Bar Vista del Golfo For visitors interested in Cuban musical forms and traditions.
has served cocktails to the culture, the Casa de las
rich and famous for decades. Amricas (see p100) has a CHILDREN
good library, well-stocked
book shop and a fine art Cubans adore children and
gallery. It organizes literary the State takes good care of
and poetry festivals. High- its young. However, entertain-
level cultural events are also ment venues for children are
held at the Fundacin Alejo few. The Aqvarium displays
Carpentier, dedicated to the tropical fish, and the Acuario
work of the great Cuban Nacional (see p109) puts on
writer, and the Fundacin dolphin shows. Donkey rides
Fernando Ortz, specializing in are offered at Parque Luz
Afro-Cuban studies. The Caballero in Habana Vieja, and
Asociacin Cultural Yoruba, at Parque Lenin (see p116)
dedicated to African-derived and Parque Metropoliano de
religions, has a library, art La Habana. The Teatro Guiol
exhibits, and lectures. hosts puppet shows and
One of the most active cen- childrens theatre.
tres is UNEAC (Writers and A theme park with circus,
Artists Union), which hosts miniature train and skate ring
Bartender preparing one of the musical and literary events at is under construction along
famous daiquiris at El Floridita El Hurn Azul the main spot the shorefront in Flores.
 E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N H AVA N A 127

DIRECTORY
TICKET AGENCIES FOLK & TRADI- Caf Concierto Cine La Rampa
TIONAL MUSIC Gato Tuerto Calle 23 111, e/ O y P.
Paradiso: Promotora Calle O 14, e/ 17 y 19. Map 2 F2.
de Turismo Cultural Asociacin Cultural Map 2 F1. Tel (7) 838 Tel (7) 836 6146.
Calle 19 560 esq. C. Map Yoruba de Cuba 2696.
2 D3. Tel (7) 832 6928. Prado 615, e/ Dragones y Cine Payret
Monte. Map 4 D3.
Casa de la Msica Paseo de Mart 503, esq.
Galiano, e/ Concordia y
THEATRE Tel (7) 863 5953. San Jos. Map 4 D3.
Neptuno. Tel (7) 862-
Tel (7) 863 3163.
Caf Teatro Brecht Conjunto Folklrico 4165. Avenida 25 esq 20.
Nacional Map 3 C2. Tel (7) 204 Cine Riviera
Calle 13, esq. I. Map 2 D2.
Calle 4 103 e/ Calzada y 0447. Calles 23 e/ H y G. Map 2
Tel (7) 863 1173.
5ta. Map 1 B2. Dos Gardenias E3. Tel (7) 830 9564.
Casa de la Comedia Tel (7) 830 3060. Complejo Dos Gardenias,
Calle Jstiz 18, esq. Cine Yara
Calle 7 y 26, Playa.
Baratillo. Map 4 F2. Rumba del Callejn Calle 23 y Calle L. Map 2
Tel (7) 204 2353.
Tel (7) 863 9282. de Hamel E2. Tel (7) 832 9430.
Callejn de Hamel, e/ Macumba
Teatro El Stano Aramburo y Hospital. Map Complejo La Giraldilla, La CULTURAL CENTRES
Calle K, e/ 25 y 27. Map 2 Coronela. Tel (7) 204
3 A2. Tel (7) 878 1661.
E2. Tel (7) 832 0630. 4990. Asociacin
Saln de Ensayo Cultural Yoruba
Teatro Fausto Saln Rosado
Benny Mor Benny Mor
Paseo de Mart 615. Map
Paseo de Mart 201, esq. Neptuno 960, e/ Aguila y 4 D3. Tel (7) 863 5953.
Coln. Map 4 D2. Avenida 41, esq. 48.
Galiano. Map 3 C2. Tel (7) 206 4799.
Tel (7) 863 1173. Casa de la Amistad
Tel (7) 878 8827.
Saln Turquino Paseo 406, e/ 17 y 19.
Teatro Hubert Map 1 C3.
RAP, ROCK & JAZZ Calle L, e/ 23 y 25. Map 2
de Blanck F2. Tel (7) 838 4011. Tel (7) 830 3114.
Calzada 657, e/ Calles A
Casa de la Cultura Casa de la Poesa
y B. Map 1 C2. CABARET
Alamar Calle Muralla 63, e/
Tel (7) 830 1011.
Calle 164, esq. 5taB, Zona Cabaret Copa Room Oficios y Inquisidor. Map 4
Teatro Mella 7, Alamar. Tel (7) 65 0624. Paseo y Malecn. Map 1 F3. Tel (7) 862 1801.
Lnea 657, e/ A y B.Map 1 B2. Tel (7) 836 4051.
Jazz Caf Fundacin Alejo
C2. Tel (7) 833 5651.
Avenida 1ra esq. Paseo. Cabaret Parisienne Carpentier
Teatro Triann Map 1 B2. Calle O, esq. 21. Map 2 F1. Empedrado 215. Map 4
Lnea 706, e/ Paseo y A. Tel (7) 838 3556. Tel (7) 873 3564 ext 136.
E2. Tel (7) 862 1801.
Map 1 C2. Cabaret Saln Rojo
La Madriguera Fundacin
Tel (7) 832 9648. Calle 21, e/ N y O. Map 2
Avenida Salvador Allende, Fernando Ortz
e/ Infanta y Luaces. Map 2 B2. Tel (7) 833 3747.
CLASSICAL MUSIC Calle 27 160, esq. L. Map
F4. Tel (7) 879 8175. 2 F2. Tel (7) 832 6841.
& OPERA BARS
La Zorra y el Cuervo UNEAC
Iglesia de San Bar Vista del Golfo
Calle 23, e/ N y O. Map 2 Calle 17 351, esq. H. Map
Francisco de Paula Calle O, esq. 21. Map 2 F1.
F2. Tel (7) 833 2402. 2 D2. Tel (7) 832 4551.
Avenida del Puerto, esq. Tel (7) 836 3564.
Leonor Prez. Map 4 F4. Ro Club (Johnny) Dos Hermanos CHILDREN
Tel (7) 860 4210. Calle A, e/3ra y 5ta, Avenida San Pedro 304,
Miramar. Tel (7) 209 3389. esq. Sol. Map 2 F3. Aqvarium
Museo Nacional
Tel (7) 861 3514. Calle Brasil 9, e
de la Msica Teatro Amrica
Avenida de Italia 253, e/ El Floridita Mercaderes y Oficios. Map
Capdevilla 1. Map 4 E1.
Concordia y Neptuno. Obispo, esq. Monserrate. 4 F3. Tel (7) 863 9493.
Tel (7) 861 9846.
Map 3 C2. Tel (7) 862 Map 4 D2. Tel (7) 867 Parque Luz
Teatro Amadeo 1300.
5416. Caballero
Roldn
Calle Tacn, Habana Vieja.
Calzada y D. Map 1 C2. Teatro Karl Marx CINEMA
Avenida 47, Miramar.
Tel (7) 832 4521. Avenida 1ra e/ 8 y 10.
Tel (7) 209 1991.
ICAIC Map 4 E1.
BALLET Calle 23 1155, e/10 y 12.
Map 1 C4. Tel (7) 831
Parque Metropol-
NIGHTCLUBS & itano de La Habana
Ballet Nacional 3145.
DISCOS Avenida 47, Miramar.
de Cuba Cine Charles Chaplin
Calzada 510 e/ D y E. Caf Cantante Calle 23 1155, e/ 10 y 12. Teatro Guiol
Map 1 C2. Paseo, esq. 39. Map 2 E6. Map 1 C4. Tel (7) 831 Calle M, e/ 17 y 19. Map
Tel (7) 835 2948. Tel (7) 878 4275. 1101. 2 E1. Tel (7) 832 6262.
CUBA REGION
BY REGION

CUBA AT A GLANCE 130131

WESTERN CUBA 132153
CENTRAL CUBA WEST 154177
CENTRAL CUBA EAST 178207
EASTERN CUBA 208245
130 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Cuba at a Glance
The lovely palm-fringed beaches of Cuba, such as
those at Varadero and on Cayo Largo, are famous
throughout the world, and justly so. But the interior
of the island also offers a variety of unexpected
experiences, from mountainous scenery to marshland
and freshwater lagoons. The towns are full of interest,
often with well-preserved architecture. Cuba really
has two capitals. Havana is monumental and maritime,
modern and Colonial, and represents the most
European spirit of the country. The second, Santiago,
embodies the Caribbean soul of Cuba. For the Varadero (see pp1623),
purposes of this guide, the island is divided into five known for its clear sea, is a
regions Havana, Western Cuba, Central Cuba West, popular holiday resort with
sports centres and parks
Central Cuba East and Eastern Cuba. Each area
such as the Parque Josone.
is colour coded as shown here.

HAVANA

CENTRAL CUBA-WEST
(pp154177)

WESTERN CUBA
(pp132153)

Cayo Largo del Sur (see pp1523), a small

island with splendid beaches on the shores of
the Caribbean Sea, is a holiday paradise.

The Valle de Viales (see pp1423)

has spectacular natural scenery with
unique outcrops called mogotes and
many cave formations. The most
significant cave is the Cueva del Indio.

Trinidad (see pp18290) is

backed by the mountains of the
Sierra del Escambray, which can
be seen here beyond the Iglesia de
San Francisco bell tower.

The church and monastery of San Juan de Dios in Camagey

 C U B A A T A G L A N C E 131

Baracoa (see pp2423), the isolated, easternmost city

Cayo Coco is a natural reserve for in Cuba, is the only one with traces of the islands first
flamingos in the Jardines del Rey inhabitants.Near the town are remnants of the
archipelago (see pp1989). The tropical forest that covered the entire island when
coasts, mostly marshland, are Columbus first landed here.
dotted with mangrove swamps.

Camagey (see pp200203), in Central-Eastern

Cuba, is full of well-preserved Colonial buildings
CENTRAL CUBAEAST and courtyards, with fine streets and squares
(pp178207) such as Plaza San Juan de Dios, seen here.

0 km 90

0 miles 90
EASTERN CUBA
(pp208245)

Santiago de Cuba (see pp22231)

is a fascinating town built around a
bay, with its heart around the Catedral
de la Asuncin. Every summer
Santiago plays host to the liveliest
carnival in Cuba, in which the entire
local population takes part.
 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N 133

WESTERN CUBA
PINAR DEL RIO ISLA DE LA JUVENTUD CAYO LARGO DEL SUR

T
he western region of mainland Cuba is characterized by
swathes of cultivated fields and at times extraordinarily
beautiful scenery. The main attraction here is the Viales
valley, where unusual limestone outcrops (called mogotes) loom over
lush fields of tobacco. Off the coast, scattered islands with stunning
white beaches offer a peaceful refuge from the bustle of Havana.

According to the a breathtaking landscape. Palm

inhabitants of trees mingle with pine
Santiago, Pinar trees, and delicate
del Ro province is the least wild orchids thrive
revolutionary part of Cuba. This, the where the condi-
islands most rural region, is populated tions are right. These low mountains
by white farmers, who have never provide excellent walking territory.
been known for their warlike passion, The Sierra del Rosario is now a
although western Cuba was the scene UNESCO world biosphere reserve, as
of several battles against the Spanish is the Guanahacabibes peninsula in
in the late 1800s, and in 1958 there the far west. In both areas, the
was a revolutionary front here. emphasis is placed on conservation-
Pinar del Ro was colonized in the conscious ecotourism.
16th and 17th centuries by Europeans Ecotourism is less of a priority on
mainly from the Canary Islands. Cayo Largo, a long-established island
Historically Pinar has preferred to resort with lovely sea and sand, and
concentrate its efforts on producing numerous hotels. This island forms part
what they claim is the best tobacco in of the Archipilago de los Canarreos, in
the world. Tobacco fields are scattered the Caribbean Sea, which is made up
among the Sierra del Rosario and of 350 cayos or keys. All of these
Sierra de Organos ranges, which are are uninhabited apart from Cayo Largo
barely 600 m (1,970 ft) above sea level and Isla de la Juventud (Isle of Youth),
not high enough to be considered a large island with a rich history and
mountains yet high enough to create the best diving in Cuba.

Miles of white beaches and beautifully clear water at Playa Tortuga, Cayo Largo

Bike riding in the peaceful Viales valley; in the background is a typical mogote
 134 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Exploring Western Cuba

The extraordinary tranquillity and agreeable climate
of Western Cuba make it a lovely area for a relaxing
break. However, there is also plenty to do. Besides
walking and horse riding, there is the provincial
capital of Pinar del Ro to explore, while tempting
coral beaches are easily accessible off the north
coast. More effort is required to reach remote Mara
La Gorda, in the far west, but keen divers are
attracted to this up-and-coming diving centre. Isla de
la Juventud attracts divers and visitors interested in View of a street in Pinar del Ro,
curious attractions, from painted caves to the one- the city of capitals
time prison of Fidel Castro. The Valle de Viales S
hotels make the best base for a stay in Western Cuba. DO
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The motorway (autopista) connects Havana and
Pinar del Ro (about a two-hour drive), and
another slower, but more picturesque, road
follows the northern coastline. From Pinar a road
runs southwest to Guanahacabibes. There are
one-day tours that start off from Havana and
include Soroa, Pinar and Viales, but not the
beaches: information is available at tourist
offices. The best way to get to Isla de la Juventud
and Cayo Largo is by air from Havana (40 mins).
There is also a catamaran service to the former
from Bataban; the trip takes two hours. Excur-
Schools of tropical fish, easily spotted on the sea sions can also be booked to the two islands;
bed along the Los Canarreos archipelago departures are from Havana or larger towns.

For additional map symbols see back flap

 W E S T E R N C U B A 135

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE

Cayo Largo del Sur Parque La Gira 4 HAVANA

pp1523 e Pinar del Ro pp1401 7

Cayo Levisa 3 Sierra del Rosario 2
Guanahacabibes Reserve q Soroa 1
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136 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Soroa 1 on the Manantiales river, a ten-

minute walk from the Villa
Candelaria (Pinar del Ro). Road Map Soroa. But the major sight
A2. Candelaria. n Hotel Soroa, here is the Orquideario, an
(48) 523 512, 523 556. orchid garden which has been
declared a national monu-
The Valley Road from Havana ment. It has one of the largest
to Soroa crosses a peaceful orchid collections in the
area of cultivated fields and world, with more than 700
rural villages. Soroa itself lies species, 250 of which are
250 m (820 ft) above sea level endemic, in an area of 35,000
in the middle of tropical ha (86,500 acres). The park,
forest. It was named after two often visited by Hemingway,
Basque brothers, Lorenzo and was founded in 1943 by a
Antonio Soroa Muagorri, lawyer from the Canaries,
who, in around 1856, bought Toms Felipe Camacho. He
various coffee plantations in had orchids sent here from all
the area and soon became the over the world in memory of
proprietors of the entire his daughter, who had died at Bathing under the falls (saltn) of
territory. One of the estates the age of 20 in childbirth. the Manantiales river at Soroa
in the valley, Finca Outside the town is the
Angerona, was in the 19th Castillo de las Nubes, a
century the setting for a medieval-like Sierra del
legendary love construction built in Rosario 2
story involving the 1940 for Antonio
French-German Arturo Snchez Pinar del Ro. Road Map A2.
Cornelius Sausse, who Bustamante, the land- n Las Terrazas, (48) 578 700.
built the farm in 1813, owner of this area.
and a Haitian girl, The Castillo is This area of 25,000 ha
Ursule Lambert. A flower in the Soroa now a restaurant (61,750 acres) of unspoilt
Soroa, today, is a orchid garden with marvellous Cuba has been declared a
small town and a views over the biosphere reserve by
holiday village (Villa Soroa), Sierra del Rosario. UNESCO. Woods consisting
with a number of tourist of tropical and deciduous
Y Orquideario de Soroa
attractions. The most trees and plants cover the
Carretera de Soroa km 8. Tel (48)
photographed is the 522 558. # daily. & 6
Sierra del Rosario range,
Saltn, a spectacular waterfall which is crossed by the San

Beaches of the North Coast

An alternative route to the Pinar region from Havana
is the road that skirts the coastline at the foot of the
Guaniguanico mountain range. The drive from the
capital to Viales, with fine panoramic views and
scenery, takes about five hours. From the northern
coast there is access to the splendid beaches on some
of the small islands in the Los Colorados Archipelago. Cayo Jutas is still unspoilt and
For the most part, the locals make their living by frequented more by Cubans than
fishing, but the islands have already attracted some by tourists. The island is an oasis
tourism. The sea can be rough and a general lack of of peace and white sand,
facilities makes this area more suitable for visitors populated by many species of
who love water sports rather than a place local and migratory birds.
for a relaxing beach holiday.
Cayo Ins de Soto Cayo Levisa

Cayo Jutas
KEY Puerto
Esperanza

Motorway

Major road Santa Luca

Minor road Minas de

Matahambre
Around 3 km (2 miles) from Santa Luca, which
Ferry
has hotel facilities and connections, is a dam
connecting the mainland with Cayo Jutas.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2568 and pp27980
 W E S T E R N C U B A 137

Juan river with its small falls. maintaining the woods and
The area is home to from ecotourism, which has
abundant, varied fauna: 90 increased since the building
species of bird as well as of the environmentally
many different reptiles and friendly Hotel La Moka (see
amphibians. The walks here p257). The hotel makes a
are lovely (permission is good starting point for walks
needed from the Bureau of in the reserve, all of which
Ecological Research), on are fairly easy and take no
paths lined with flowers, more than two hours to
including wild orchids. cover. Also open is the old,
Most of the farmers in the recently restored Buena Vista
Sierra live in communities coffee plantation, which The well-managed pine forest at
founded by a government has a restaurant. Las Terrazas
programme in 1968. The For birdwatching, hike
best-known is Las Terrazas, along the San Juan river as
whose name derives from far as the Caada del Infierno, Cayo Levisa 3
the terraces laid out for the a shady pool frequented
pine trees that are now a by local birds such as the Pinar del Ro. Road Map A2.
characteristic feature of the zunzn hummingbird, the 4 from Palma Rubia (1 hr),
area. The 1000 inhabitants tocororo and the cartacuba departure 10am, return trip 5pm.
make a living by (see pp2021). Excursions from Pinar del Ro
n Cubanacn Viajes, Calle Mart
109, esq. Coln, (48) 750 178.

This small island, with its

white sand beaches, an
offshore coral reef and
mangroves, is the most geared
up for tourists in the Los Colo-
rados archipelago, and the
only one with diving facilities.
Despite this, it is still unspoilt
and is home to several species
of bird and the surrounding
waters have an abundance of
The artificial pool at the heart of the Las Terrazas rural community fish, especially marlin.

Cayo Levisa, the

best-known island in HAVANA
the archipelago, has a fairly

simple tourist village, 3 km Pinar del Ro

(2 miles) of lovely beach,

and a coral reef with

splendid scuba-diving sites.

0 kilometres 15
Cayo Paraso, whose name
0 miles 15 Marina Hemingway, 20 km
means paradise, was the (12 miles) from the heart of
setting for Hemingways Havana, is a famous tourist spot
stories Islands in the Stream. known for hosting the annual
marlin fishing tournament held in
honour of the American author.
Playa El Morrillo Competitors come from all over
Playa San Pedro the world to participate.
Palma Ruba

Mariel

Mariel was the point of departure for

the 1980 Marielitos boatlift (see p53).
138 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Parque La Gira 4
San Diego de Los Baos (Pinar del
Ro). Road Map A2. * 3,000.
n La Gira Restaurant, (48) 812
611. # daily. 6

The former estate of the

landowner Don Manuel
Cortina, who was forced to
leave Cuba in 1959, this was
one of the first properties to
be nationalized after Castros
revolution. The large park
includes the ruins of a
medieval-style residence
and an English garden with
a small Chinese temple and
statues of mythological
figures including sphinxes
and satyrs. The lovely gardens in Parque La Gira
About 5 km (3 miles) east
of the Gira park is San century. In more recent Palma, with better options
Diego de los Baos, a peace- history, during the missile for hunters. Only 9 km (5.5
ful village on the slopes of crisis, the cave became the miles) away from Pinar del
the Sierra de los Quemados, headquarters of Che Guevara, Ro, hunters can stay at the
which has retained its original some of whose personal recently renovated Rancho
Colonial atmosphere. The belongings and mementoes La Guabina.
village has always been a are on display.
major tourist and therapeutic
centre. The springs in the Vuelta Abajo 6
area produce sulphurous Maspotn 5
water that helps to cure Pinar del Ro. Road Map A3.
rheumatism and skin diseases; Los Palacios (Pinar del Ro).
it is available from the spa Road Map A3. n Ecotur, (48) The small area between
facility situated on a hill just 796 393. Pinar del Ro, San Juan
outside town. y Martnez and San Lus
Don Manuel Cortina also The best-known of the many produces very high quality
owned a nearby cave, the hunting reserves in Cuba, tobacco. Good growing
Cueva de los Portales, Maspotn includes three conditions are the result of a
discovered in the 19th lagoons and 61 covers. series of factors: for example,
century. This old hiding place Besides the endemic birds, the Sierra del Rosario protects
was used by the natives as migratory birds also the plants from heavy
a refuge from the massacres come here to rainfall, and the
that were waged by the escape the cold sandy red soil
Spanish in the early 16th in North America. in which the
Game includes tobacco plants
ducks, snipe, A Hoyo de Monterrey grow is well
pheasants and cigar band drained and rich in
wild guinea fowl. nitrogen. This is a
Hunting and fishing at unique environment; in fact,
Maspotn are regulated. the former landowners who
Open season is from October left Cuba in 1959 have tried in
to March, and hunters may vain to reproduce the miracle
not kill more than 40 birds in Nicaragua, Honduras,
per session. Each day Santo Domingo and the US.
includes two sessions. The On the road from the
hunting lodge hires out all provincial capital to San Juan
necessary equipment, y Martnez, the prestigious
including everything needed Hoyo de Monterrey planta-
for hunting on horseback, tions can be visited. Here
and will also provide hunters plants are protected from the
with expert guides. Maspotn sun by cotton cloth in order
is a 25-km (15-mile) drive to maintain the softness of the
from the Pinar del Ro tobacco leaves. There are also
highway by dirt road. the ranchos, windowless
The entrance to the Cueva Ecotur also offers another storehouses where the leaves
de los Portales hunting area in Punta de are left to dry on long poles.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2568 and pp27980
 W E S T E R N C U B A 139

Cuban Tobacco
T h e t o b a c c o p l a n t (Nicotiana is the result of age-old expertise handed
tabacum) grows from small, round, down from generation to generation.
golden seeds. Cuban tobacco seeds are Tobacco plants are quite delicate, and
in demand throughout the world, need skilful handling. There are two
because their quality is considered to types: Corojo, grown in greenhouses,
be so good. The plant reaches its full which has the prettiest leaves, selected
height in the three or four months for use as wrapper leaves for the cigars,
from November to February. Like cigar- and Criollo, which grows outdoors and
making (see pp323), tobacco growing provides the other leaves.

Criollo leaves
are separated into
three grades: ligero,
seco and volado.
The first, which is
the best, has the
most aromatic
leaves, which absorb
most sun and are
harvested only when Floating cultivation is a technique of
completely mature. experimental hydroculture in which the
seeds germinate ten days earlier than
those grown with traditional methods.
Poles for transport Traditional
and drying cultivation in rows

TOBACCO HARVEST
Harvesting tobacco
is a delicate and laborious
operation.The leaves are
tied in bunches, hung on
horizontal poles and then
transported to drying
rooms. In the case of the
Corojo plant, the harvest
is carried out in various
stages, at intervals of
several days.

Humidification
is a hydrating process
carried out after the
drying so that the
leaves do not dry out
and become brittle.
Once sprayed, the
bunches of leaves are
suspended in order to
Drying takes from 45 to 60 days. The eliminate excess water.
leaves, hung on small poles in storehouses
known as casas del tabaco, gradually turn
from bright green to brown.

By establishing a tobacco monopoly in 1717,

the Colonial authorities obliged farmers to sell
all their tobacco to Spain. Now, although the
Cuban government allows private tobacco
growers to have 7-ha (17-acre) plots, the
state is still the sole manufacturer
and distributor of cigars.
140 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Pinar del Ro 7 industrial processing of punto guajiro (from guajiro,

tobacco. The most striking the Cuban word for farmer),
Road Map A3. * 200,000. aspect about the historic which is of Spanish derivation,
n Cubanacn, Calle Mart 109, esq. centre of this small, orderly and is generally characterized
Coln, (48) 750 178. and peaceful town is the by improvisation.
@ from Havana. abundance of columns: At Nos. 172, 174 and 176 in
Corinthian or Ionic, simple or Calle Coln, there are three
In 1778, when the Cuban decorated. Not for unusual buildings
provinces were founded, the nothing is Pinar del designed by Rogelio
town of Nueva Filipina was Ro known as the Prez Cubillas,
renamed Pinar because city of capitals. the citys leading
of a pine grove in the vicinity, The most important architect in the
on the banks of the Guam buildings lie on the 1930s and 1940s.
river. Nearby, General Antonio arcaded main street,
Maceo fought a number of Calle Mart (or Real). P Palacio de Guasch
battles in 18967 that were In the Cultural Calle Mart, esq.
crucial to the Cubans victory Heritage Fund shop, A capital with bas- Comandante Pinares.
in the third war of Cuban at the corner of Calle relief decoration Museum Tel (48) 753
independence. Rosario, visitors can 087. # TueSat, Sun
Today, the pines no longer buy local crafts as well as art am. 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct,
grow here, but the clean air reproductions. In the evening, 25 Dec. 8 6
and Colonial atmosphere of the Casa de la Cultura (at No. This somewhat extravagant
Pinar del Ro are unchanged. 125) hosts shows and concerts building is a mixture of
The town has long been a of traditional music such as Moorish arches, Gothic spires
centre for the cultivation and and Baroque elements. It was
built in 1909 for a wealthy
physician who had travelled
widely and who wanted to
reproduce in his new
residence the architectural
styles that had impressed him
the most. In 1979 the mansion
was transformed into a Museo
de Ciencias Naturales (natural
history museum) named after
Tranquilino Sandalio de
Nodas, a well-known land
surveyor in this region. The
museum illustrates the natural
One of the three eclectic-style buildings on Calle Coln and geological history of Pinar

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2568 and pp27980
 W E S T E R N C U B A 141

Viales 8
Pinar del Ro. Road Map A3.
* 4,000. @

Viales, whose name

derives from a vineyard
planted here by a settler from
the Canary Islands, was
founded in 1607.
This small town, the
economy of which has always
The unusual faade of the Palacio de Guasch, Pinar del Ro been based on agriculture, is
now the subject of govern-
and has on display stuffed P Casa Garay ment protection as an example
birds and animals, including Calle Isabel Rubio 189 e/ Ceferino of a perfectly preserved
the tiny Cuban zunzn Fernndez y Frank Pas. Tel (48) 752 Colonial settlement. The main
hummingbird, and a crocodile 966. # 8am4:30pm MonFri; Sat street, named after a 19th-
more than 4 m (12 ft long), every other week. 1 Jan, 1 May, century nationalist, Salvador
as well as rare plants and 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec. 8 6 Cisneros Betancourt, is lined
butterflies. In the inner Since 1892 the Casa Garay has with many Colonial houses
courtyard are sculptures of produced Guayabita del Pinar, with characteristic arcades,
prehistoric animals. a famous liqueur based on an which make useful shelters
ancient recipe. It is made by from the hot sun and any sud-
E Museo Provincial distilling brandy from the den violent tropical rainstorms.
de Historia sugar of the guayaba (guava), The towns most important
Calle Mart 58 e/ Coln y Isabel which is grown in this area. architecture is in the main
Rubio. Tel (48) 754 300. # Guided tours of the small square, the Parque Mart,
noon4:30pm Mon, 8:30am10pm factory finish up at the tasting on which stand the Iglesia
TueSat, 9am1pm Sun. area, where visitors can try del Sagrado Corazn de
1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, the sweet and dry versions Jess (1888), and the former
25 Dec. & 8 6 of this popular drink. Colonia Espaola (diplomatic
This museum illustrates the headquarters of the Spanish
history of the province from P Fbrica de Tabacos gentry). This is now the
the Pre-Columbian period Francisco Donatin home of the Casa de la
to the present. On display is Calle Maceo 157 Oeste. Cultura, which offers an
a major collection of 19th- Tel (48) 773 069. # 9amnoon, interesting programme of
century arms, Colonial furni- 14pm MonFri, 9amnoon Sat. cultural activities.
ture, works by local painters, 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, Viales also boasts a minor
including a huge landscape 25 Dec. & 8 = architectural gem, the Casa
by Domingo Ramos (1955), This tiny cigar factory, housed de Don Toms, built in
and mementoes of the in a former 19th-century jail, 18878 for Gerardo Miel y
musician Enrique Jorrn, the is open to the public. Visitors Sainz, a rich merchant and
father of the cha-cha-cha. can watch the 70 or so agent for a shipping line.
workers making Trinidad The building, designed by
P Teatro Milans cigars. These and other cigars the Spanish architect Roger
Calle Mart y Coln. are sold in the small shop. The Reville, was restored in 1991
Tel (48) 753 871. factory is also a training school and turned into a good fish
A Neo-Classical gem and for torcedores (cigar rollers). restaurant (see p279).
the citys pride and joy, this
theatre is named after the
romantic poet Jos Jacinto
Milans. It started out as the
Lope de Vega theatre, which
first opened in 1845 and was
then bought in 1880 by one
Flix del Pino Daz. He totally
renovated it, modelling it on
the Teatro Sauto in Matanzas
(see p158). Its name was
changed in 1898.
This simple but functional
structure has a rectangular
plan, a linear faade and a
portico with tall columns. Its
opulent, three-level, U-shaped
wooden auditorium has a
seating capacity of about 500. The main street in Viales, with its one-storey porticoed houses
142 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Valle de Viales 9

A unique landscape awaits visitors to

the Viales Valley. The mogotes, the
characteristic, gigantic karst formations
that resemble sugar loaves, are like stone
sentinels keeping watch over the corn
and tobacco fields, the red earth with
majestic royal palm trees and the
farmhouses with roofs of palm leaves.
According to legend, centuries ago some
Spanish sailors who were approaching
the coast thought the profile of the
mogotes they glimpsed in the fog looked
like a church organ. Hence the name, A storehouse for drying tobacco near a mogote
Sierra de los Organos, given to the
network of hills in this area.

Sierrita de San Vicente

San Vicente

is famous for its

hot springs.

Cueva
del Ruiseor

SIERRA

DE VIALES

Mural de la Prehistoria
On the face of a mogote the Cuban painter
Leovigildo Gonzlez, a pupil of the famous
Mexican artist Diego Rivera, painted the history VALLE DE LA GUASASA
of evolution (195962), from ammonites to
Homo sapiens. The mural, restored in 1980,
makes use of the cracks in the rock to create
special effects of light and colour.
Mogote
Dos Hermanas Mogote
KEY Del Valle

Peak Minas de Matahambre

Paved road S
LE
Path A
Entrance to the I
Santo Toms Cavern V
River E
D
Underground river E
LL
A
V

Hotel Los Jazmines

Pinar del Rio

Gran Caverna de Santo Toms
This is the largest network of caves in Cuba
and the whole of Latin America. With its
18 km (11 miles) of galleries and up to five
levels of communicating grottoes, the Gran
Caverna is a speleologists paradise. In the
19th century, the Cueva del Saln was used
by local farmers for festivals.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2568 and pp27980
 W E S T E R N C U B A 143

Cueva del Indio VISITORS CHECKLIST

This cave, discovered
in 1920, lies in the Viales (Pinar del Ro). Road
San Vicente Valley. Map A3. * 30,000. n Cuba-
nacn Viajes, Salvador Cisneros
The first part of the
63c, Plaza Viales, (48) 796 393.
tour here is on foot @ Carretera Cementerio,
through tunnels with Viales, (48) 793 195; connec-
artificial lighting. tions with Havana, Pinar del Ro
Then a small and Varadero. Excursions &
motorboat takes tours of the caves n Hotel
visitors up the Rancho San Vicente, Carretera
underground San Puerto Esperanza, Km 33,
Viales, (48) 796 451.
Vicente river for about
a quarter of a mile.

Puerto Esperanza
E
T
N
E
IC
V
N
A
S
E
D
E
LL
A
V

La Palma

Palenque de los Cimarrones

Cueva De San In the depths of Cueva de San Miguel,

Mogote past the bar at its mouth, is a
Miguel La Esmeralda
Mogote spectacular cave that was once a
De Robustiano refuge for runaway African slaves
(cimarrones). It now houses a small
museum and a pleasant restaurant.
Rio Palmarito

THE STRUCTURE OF A MOGOTE

The mogotes are among the most ancient rocks in
Mogote Rustico Cuba, and all that remains of what was once a
limestone plateau. Over a period lasting millions of
years, underground aquifers eroded the softer
limestone, giving rise to large caverns whose
ceilings later collapsed. Only the hard limestone
Viales pillars, or present-day mogotes, were left standing.
Mogotes generally have only a thin covering of soil,
but those in the Sierra de los Organos are covered
Hotel La Ermita with thick vegetation. Some endemic plant species
have adapted to life on their craggy crevices; these
include the mountain palm tree (Bombacopsis
cubensis), and the
corch palm Limestone
(Microcycas wall of the
0 kilometres 1 calocoma). ancient cave

0 miles 1
Thick Friable
vegetation terrain
on the sides

Viales still has a Colonial

feel (see p141). It is a
tranquil, pleasant little
town, ideal for a short stay.
146 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

The jetty at Mara La Gorda, the departure point for boats taking people to dive sites

Mara La Gorda 0 white sand and a warm, Guanahacabibes

translucent sea a real tropical
Pinar del Ro. n Mara La Gorda aquarium. The reefs are also Reserve q
Diving Centre, La Bajada, easy to reach, lying just a short
Pinar del Ro. Excursions from
(48) 778 131, 778 077. distance from the shore (the
Pinar del Ro. n Cubanacn Viajes,
coral and fish can even be
Calle Mart 109, esq. Coln, Pinar del
The best-known bathing spot seen without swimming
Ro, (48) 750 178. 8
on the southwestern coast under water).
owes its name to a sad legend. From the jetty The peninsula of
A few centuries ago, a plump opposite the diving Guanahacabibes,
(gorda) girl named Mara was area, a boat with a named after a Pre-
abducted by pirates on the doctor on board takes Columbian ethnic
Venezuelan coast and then divers twice a day to group, is a strip of
abandoned here. In order to the various dive sites. land 100km (62 miles)
survive, she was forced to sell Areas of particular long and 634 km
herself to the buccaneers who interest include the (421 miles) wide.
passed by. The place still so-called Black Coral In 1985 it was
bears her name today. Valley, a wall of coral A cotorra, a declared a world
The extraordinary beauty over 100 m (328 ft) species of parrot biosphere reserve by
of the coral reefs populated long, and the Saln seen in the reserve UNESCO, to protect
by sea turtles, reef sharks and de Mara, a sea cave the flora and fauna.
other rare species of tropical at a depth of 18 m (60 ft), Access to the inner zone, in
fish makes these 8 km which is the habitat of rare the vicinity of La Bajada, is
(5 miles) of coastline with fine species of fish. therefore limited. Permission
to visit is granted by the Pinar
del Ro forest rangers at the
tourist offices in local hotels,
and visits to the park are made
in jeeps with a local guide.
The mixed forest of
deciduous and evergreen trees
contains about 600 species of
plants and many animals,
including deer, boar, reptiles
and jutas, rodents similar to
opossums that live in trees.
Among the bird species are
woodpeckers, parrots,
hummingbirds, cartacuba
and tocororo (see p18).
Cabo San Antonio, the
western tip of Cuba, is
identifiable by the Roncalli
lighthouse, built in 1849 by
the Spanish governor, after
Cabo Corrientes at the southern end of the Guanahacabibes reserve whom it was named.
The Valle de Viales with bohos, farmers houses characteristic of rural Cuba
 W E S T E R N C U B A 147

Diving in the Caribbean Sea

The Caribbean Sea beds divers are situated at
off the island of Cuba Mara la Gorda, the
offer some of the most Archipelago de los
exciting coral reef Canarreos, Playa Santa
scenery imaginable. The Luca and Jardines de la
coral formations lie at a Reina. Qualified scuba-
maximum depth of 150 m A scuba diver surrounded by diving centres (buceo)
(495 ft), at an average a school of grunts take visitors on trips out
t e m perature of about to the reefs. In some areas
23 C (73 F), and never less than 18 C it is possible to see tropical fish and
(64 F). The most fascinating areas for coral simply by snorkelling (see p293).
Soft coral results from an
Sea plume is a type of
evolutionary process during
gorgonia that looks
which the hard skeleton turns
much like a feather.
into a flexible structrure.

The grouper, with its

unmistakable colouring, is one
of the most common fish in the
Caribbean, together with the
queen triggerfish and the
Pomacanthus paru angelfish.
Other widespread species are
the tarpon, with its silvery
colouring, and the barracuda,
with its powerful teeth. Sharks
are less common.

Sponge

The blue surgeon fish is born

with bright yellow colouring that
later turns blue.

Coral

THE SEA FLOOR Brain coral is one of

The coral reef is a rich and complex ecosystem. many types of coral
The Caribbean sea beds are home to numerous common to the Cuban
varieties of coral and a great many sea sponges seas, along with black
and gorgonias, as well as tropical fish, sea coral, iron wire coral with
turtles and various crustaceans. its rod-like structure, and
elkhorn coral with its
flat branches.
Tubular sponges
vary in size, the
largest ones being 2 m Gorgonian sea
(6 ft) high. If they are fans (Gorgonia
squeezed or stepped on ventalina) are quite
they emit a purple dye widespread on
that will stain your Caribbean sea
skin for several days. beds. It is possible
There are also barrel- to see splendid
and vase-shaped examples of huge
sponges. proportions.
148 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Isla de la Juventud w Ensenada

de los barcos
The naturalist Alexander
von Humboldt (see p185)
described this island as an
abandoned place, Robert Louis
Billboard welcoming
visitors to Nueva Gerona
Stevenson called it Treasure
Island, the dictator Batista
wanted to turn it into a paradise for rich Americans, La Demajagua
and Fidel Castro repopulated it with young people,
and changed its name to the Isla de la Juventud Atanagildo Cajigal
(youth). With a surface area of 2,200 sq km (850 sq
miles) and 86,000 inhabitants, this is the largest island Mina de Oro
in the Archipilago de los Canarreos. Comparatively
few tourists venture to the island, but there are a few
interesting sights and the diving is excellent.
0 km 5
This street ends at the Parque
0 miles 5
Central, Nueva Geronas
main square, where the
Iglesia de Nuestra

Hotel Colony
Seora de los Dolores
stands. First built in Neo- Ensenada
Classical style in 1853, this de la Siguanea
church was totally destroyed
by a cyclone in 1926 and
rebuilt three years later in
Colonial style.
South of the Parque Central,
the former City Hall building
is now the home of the Cocodrilo
Museo Municipal, or town
museum. This has on display
many objects and documents
Nuestra Seora de los Dolores, concerning pirates and
in Nueva Gerona buccaneers the main Lastly, another must for
protagonists in the islands visitors is the Museo de
Nueva Gerona history as well as the Ciencias Naturales, the
The capital of the island is inevitable photographs and natural history museum. The
a small and peaceful town. mementoes of the revolution. geological and natural history
Surrounded by hills that yield There is another museum of the island is illustrated
multicoloured marble, Nueva in town that is dedicated and there is also a fine
Gerona was founded in 1828 solely to the struggle Planetarium, the only one in
on the banks of the Las Casas against Fulgencio Batistas the world in which the North
river by Spanish settlers who, dictatorship: the Casa Natal Star can be seen together
together with their slaves, had Jess Montan. with the Southern Cross.
left countries on the American
continent that had won their
independence.
The town is built on a
characteristic grid plan
(intersecting and parallel
streets, with a main avenue
and a central square) and
the modern outskirts are in
continuous expansion.
A good starting point for a
visit to Nueva Gerona is Calle
39, the graceful main street
flanked by coloured arcades.
Here can be found the local
cinema, theatre, pharmacy
(which is always open), post
office, hospital, bank, Casa
de la Cultura, tourist office
and bars and restaurants. The harbour at Nueva Gerona, where fishermen moor their boats

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2568 and pp 27980
 W E S T E R N C U B A 149

VISITORS CHECKLIST

Ciro Redondo NUEVA Municipality with a special

GERONA Playa Bibijagua statute. * 86,000.
Chacn ~ Rafael Cabrera Mustelier,
Carretera La F, km 5,
(46) 322 300.
g Daily catamaran ride from
Bataban, lasting 23 hours.
Jcaro For information call
(46) 324 415.
Nueva Gerona n Rhumbos
(46) 322 424.

La F
La Victoria
El Chalet KEY
La Reforma
Argelia Libre Motorway

Major road
Julio Antonio Mella
Minor road

Unpaved road

Domestic airport
Cayo Piedra
Ferry
Punta
ISLA DE LA JUVENTUD del Este
Recommended beach

Pre-Columbian site

Viewpoint

E Museo Municipal
de Nueva Gerona
Calle 30 e/ 37 y Mart. Tel (46) 323
791. # 9am6pm TueThu,
9am 10pm Fri & Sat, 9am1pm Sun.
& 8 6 (with charge).
E Museo de Ciencias The monumental faade of the Presidio Modelo prison
Naturales
Calle 41, esq.54. Tel (46) 323 143.
P Presidio Modelo the prisoners. Guards and
# 9am5pm TueSat, 9am1pm
Sun. 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10
4 km southeast of Nueva Gerona, prisoners never came into
Oct, 25 Dec. & 8 6 (with Reparto Delio Chacn. Tel (46) 325 contact with one another.
charge). 112. # 8am4pm TueSat, 8am Guards circulated in under-
noon Sun. & 8 6 (with charge). ground galleries, keeping
On the road that connects the constant watch over the
capital with Playa Bibijagua, a prisoners above.
popular beach of black sand It was in the Presidio that
frequented by the inhabitants the organizers of the attack on
of Nueva Gerona, is Cubas the Moncada army barracks in
most famous penitentiary. Santiago, led by Fidel Castro,
Originally built by Machado, it were imprisoned in October
was modelled on the famous 1953. They were liberated two
one in Joliet, Illinois (US) and years later, in May 1955.
converted into a museum in At the entrance to the first
1967. The prison consists of pavilion is cell 3859, where
tiny cells in the interior of four Castro, despite his isolation,
enormous multi-storeyed managed to reorganize the
round cement blocks. In the revolutionary movement,
middle of each stood a sentry- starting with the defence plea
Strolling along the arcades on box from which guards could he made in court, History Will
Nueva Geronas Calle 39 keep a close watch on all Absolve Me (see p47).
150 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Exploring Isla de la Juventud

Unlike other islands in the Archipelago de los
Canarreos, there are no grand luxury hotels on the Isla
de la Juventud. As a result it seems to have a more
genuine Cuban atmosphere, and the tourist industry
works alongside other island activities without pressure.
The island is not new to habitation, unlike other cayos
which have only recently seen housing development,
and retains vestiges of five centuries of Cuban history.
The town of Nueva Gerona and its surroundings make a
good starting point for a visit, followed by the southern
coast. The main hotels are in the southwestern part of
the island, while the eastern tip has some fascinating Coral formations on the islands
ancient cave paintings by Siboney Indians. sea floor

E Casa Museo Finca El Abra Hotel Colony provides boats to take visitors
Carretera Siguanea km 1.5 Tel (46) 398 181. c to the Centro to the dive sites. At noon,
(5 km southwest of Nueva Gerona). de Buceo, daily at 9am, return trip lunch is served at the Ranchn,
Tel (05) 219 3054. # 9am5pm at 4:305pm. a restaurant on a platform on
TueSat, 9am1pm Sun. Mon. This low-rise hotel (see p257) piles connected via a pontoon
& 8 6 (with charge). a landmark for all scuba to a beach at Cabo Francs.
On the edge of the Sierra de divers on the island blends The 56 dive sites, between
las Casas is an elegant villa in well with the natural envi- Cabo Francs and Punta
where, in 1870, the 17-year- ronment. The nearby sea is Pardenales, lie at the end of a
old Jos Mart was held for green and translucent, with a shelf which gently slopes
nine weeks before being sandy floor that is often down from the coast
deported to Spain for his covered with swathes of the to a depth of 2025 m
separatist views. Part of the submerged marine aquatic (6582 ft), and then
building is now a museum plant Thalassia abruptly drops for
with a display of photographs testudinum. hundreds of metres.
and documents relating to the The hotel overlooks This vertical wall is a
national heros presence on Playa Roja, the large, favourite with passing
the island. The rest of the palm-shaded beach fish, which literally rub
villa is occupied by the where an important shoulders with divers.
descendants of the original diving centre, the While dives on the
owner, a rich Catalan. Centro Inter- A hotel sign platform can be made
Nearby is the vast Parque nacional de Buceo, is by beginners, those
Natural Julio Antonio Mella, also located. along the shelf are more
which has a botanical garden, In the mornings a van takes difficult and suited to divers
a zoo, an amusement park, an guests from the Hotel Colony with more experience.
artificial lake, and a viewpoint to the diving centre, where all Among the most fascinating
overlooking the entire island. kinds of diving equipment can dives are: the one at La Pared
To the south the Cinaga de be rented (although it is de Coral Negro, which has an
Lanier is visible, a marshy advisable to take a 3 mm abundance of black coral as
area in the middle of which is wetsuit and an oxygen tank well as sponges as much as
the village of Cayo Piedra. or bottle with you), and which 35 m (115 ft) in diameter; El
Reino del Sahara, one of the
most beautiful shallow dives;
El Mirador, a wall dive among
sponges and large madre-
pores; and El Arco de los
Sbalos, which is the domain
of tarpons. At Cayo Los Indios
shipwrecks can be seen on
the sea bed at a depth of
1012 m (3340 ft).
There are also two
wonderful boat trips that
can be made from the Hotel
Colony. One goes to the
Pennsula Francs, which is
better known as Costa de
los Piratas. This is a paradise
for divers because of its
The Hotel Colony, surrounded by tropical vegetation wonderfully colourful and
 W E S T E R N C U B A 151

T Cuevas de Punta del Este

59 km (37 miles) southeast of Nueva
Gerona. n Punta del Este, (46) 322
082; Ecotur, (46) 327 101.
Punta del Este, on the south-
eastern tip of the island, has a
stunning white sand beach. It
is however, most famous for
its seven caves, which were
discovered in 1910 by a
French castaway who took
View of Punta del Este beach with its white sand and crystal-clear sea refuge here. On the walls of
the caves are 235 drawings
varied underwater flora and variation of traditional Cuban made by Siboney Indians in
fauna. A variety of other son music (the Son Montuno), an age long before the arrival
activities can also be enjoyed has resulted in the creation of Christopher Columbus.
here, including water skiing, of a new and interesting The drawings in the largest
surfing, sailing, deep sea dance which is highly popular cave a series of red and
fishing and even horse riding. among the locals, who call black concentric circles
The second excursion goes it the Sucu-Sucu. crossed by arrows pointing
to Cocodrilo, formerly called eastward probably
Jacksonville. This traditional represent a solar
fishing village was founded calendar. The com-
in the early 20th century by a plexity of these
small community of emigrants drawings led the
from the British colony of the Cuban ethnologist
Cayman Islands. In fact, there Fernando Ortz, who
are still a few inhabitants studied them in 1925,
who speak English as their to call them the
first language. Sistine Chapel of the
The settlers at Cocodrilo Caribbean. Protect
introduced a typical Jamaican yourself against
dance known as the Round Pre-Columbian drawings which may mosquitoes the
Dance, which, blended with a represent a calendar, in the Cuevas del Este caves are full of them.

HISTORY OF THE ISLAND holiday paradise for rich Americans, but

The Tano and Siboney his plans failed. On New Years night in
peoples knew of the Isla 1958, as Castros barbudos were entering
de la Juventud (see p38) Havana, a group of soldiers in the rebels
long before Columbus army took over the island during the
discovered it in 1494 opening ceremony of the Hotel Colony,
on his second journey. and arrested the mafiosi in the hotel.
The Spanish crown In 1966, after a devastating cyclone, the
licensed the island to Cuban government decided to plant new
cattle breeders, but in citrus groves on the island which would be
practice handed it over worked by students from Cuba and around
The corsair to pirates. Because of the world. The idea was such a success
Sir Francis Drake the shallow waters, that in ten years the islands population
heavy Spanish galleons grew from 10,000 to 80,000.
were unable to approach the island, while
the buccaneers light vessels could land
there. This meant that such mythical
figures as Francis Drake, Henry Morgan,
Oliver Esquemeling and Jacques de Sores
were able to exploit it as a hiding place for
booty captured from Spanish ships.
After Nueva Gerona was founded (1828),
the island was used as a place of detention for
Cuban nationalists, including Jos Mart. Its
use as a prison island continued for 50 years
in the 20th century; construction of
the Presidio Modelo began in 1926. In
1953 Batista turned the island into a free
zone where money could be laundered. An old map of Isla de la Juventud from the Museo
The dictator also wanted to turn it into a Municipal of Nueva Gerona
152 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Cayo Largo del Sur e

This island is a wonderful holiday

destination for those who love sun, sea and
sand. It is 25 km (15 miles) long and has a
surface area of 37.5 sq km (15 sq miles).
There are no extremes of climate here. It
The Cayo
Largo logo rains very little, the temperature is 24 C
(75 F) in winter and less than 30 C (86 F)
in summer, the coast is flat, the sand as white and fine
as talcum powder, and the sea is clear and calm. It is
safe for scuba diving, and the island offers other sporting
activities such as horse riding, sailing, tennis and surfing.
And if you prefer not to swim, you can walk for miles in
the shallow water. There are no villages except those
built for tourists, with recently built, comfortable hotels,
as well as restaurants, bars, discos and swimming pools. View of Playa Tortuga

Marina Cayo Largo

is the point of departure for
boat trips to several scuba diving
sites. In shallow water there are
coral gardens populated by
multicoloured fish, and a black
coral reef 30 km (19 miles) long.
Fishing equipment can be hired
in the water sports centre.

Combinado is a marine
. Playa Sirena biology centre which is
This 2.3-km (1.5-mile) open to the public.
beach is very tranquil:
sheltered from the wind,
the sea is calm all
year round.
Isla del Sol Las Piedras

Playa Paraso is very

secluded, making
nude sunbathing
possible.

Playa Lindamar is a shell-shaped

beach, 5 km (3 miles) long,
sheltered by white rocks, with
many hotels, holiday villages
and bathing facilities.

STAR SIGHTS Holiday Villages

Exclusive holiday
. Playa Sirena resorts, with family
bungalows and
. Playa Los Cocos cottages, are
. Playa Tortuga concentrated on the
southwestern coast.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2568 and pp27980
 W E S T E R N C U B A 153

VISITORS CHECKLIST
Archipilago de los Canarreos
(Isla de la Juventud).
Road Map B3. * 500.
k Vilo Acua, (45) 248 141.
n Cubatur, Hotel Isla del Sur
(45) 248 246 or (45) 248 258;
Havanatur (45) 248 215.
Excursions from Marina Cayo
Largo: departure in the morning,
return at sunset.

. Playa Tortuga
This beach in the eastern part of the island is popular with
nature lovers: it is a nesting area for marine turtles and
has become a natural reserve for Chaelonidae (species of
marine turtle), which are also raised at Combinado.

KEY
Playa
Major road Los Pinos

Minor road

Unpaved road

International airport

Beach

Ferry

0 km 1

0 miles 1

Playa Blanca, surrounded by white . Playa Los Cocos

rocks, is the longest beach on the The coconut palms along the shore
island (7.5 km/5 miles). It also offers provide some shade here and the shallow
some of the best tourist facilities. water makes it ideal for children. The
nearby coral reefs and shipwrecks
attract scuba divers.

VISITING THE NEARBY ISLANDS

The small cayos nearby offer many natural attractions. Cayo
Rico, an island surrounded by brilliant green water and
fringed with beaches of sand as fine as sugar, is only a few
minutes away by boat. The sea beds, which are especially
rich in lobsters and molluscs, are fascinating and can be
admired from glass-bottomed boats. While various species of
fish abound at Cayo Rosario, which is a scuba divers dream,
the only inhabitants of Cayo Iguana, just off the western tip
of Cayo Largo, are the harmless iguanas, which can be as
much as 1 m (3 ft) long. Cayo Pjaro is the craggy habitat of
ocean birds, while Cayo Cantiles, rich in flowers, birds and
An iguana in Cayo Iguana fish, is also home to several species of monkey.
 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N 155

CENTRAL CUBA WEST

MATANZAS CIENFUEGOS VILLA CLARA

T
he central-western provinces are the rural heart of Cuba, with
cultivated fields and a gentle landscape, even where the plain
gives way to the Sierra del Escambray. Apart from Varadero,
the famous holiday resort, the main attractions in this region are two
lively towns Santa Clara and Cienfuegos and the natural scenery
of the Zapata peninsula and the Escambray mountains.

In 1509, while circling of African slaves. From the

Cuba, the Spanish mid-1500s to the mid-
navigator Sebastin 1700s, both coasts
Ocampo caught sight of a bay on the in this region had
northern, Atlantic coast inhabited by to face the seri-
Siboney Indians. Their land was ous threat of pirate raids, against which
requisitioned almost immediately and the many redoubts, citadels and
assigned to settlers from the Canary castles that are still visible along the
Islands. The Indians opposed this coastline had very little effect. As a
injustice so fiercely that the city of result, in 1689, 20 families from the
Matanzas, which was built in that bay village of Remedios, not far from the
in the 1600s, probably owes its name sea, decided to move to the interior,
to the memory of a massacre to be at a safe distance from the bucca-
(matanza) of Spaniards by the natives. neers ships and cannons. In this way
Another bay, on the south coast, was the city of Santa Clara was founded.
sighted by Columbus in 1494. The Santa Clara, capital of Villa Clara
Jagua Indians living there were later province, holds a special place in
wiped out, but it wasnt until 1819 that Cuban hearts since it was the setting
Cienfuegos was founded by Catholic for heroic acts by Che Guevara and his
settlers from the former French barbudos. On 28 December 1958, they
colonies of Haiti and Louisiana, who captured the area after what was to be
were granted this territory to the last battle of the revolution (see
counterbalance the massive presence p48) before Batista fled.

A typical wooden house along the Punta Gorda peninsula, Cienfuegos

Varadero, extremely popular with international holidaymakers

156 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Exploring Central Cuba

West
This part of Cuba boasts some exceptional
attractions: the beaches of Varadero perhaps
the best and certainly the most well-equipped in
Cuba and the swamp (cinaga) of Zapata, a
nature reserve which is particularly good for
birdwatching. Cienfuegos, Matanzas and Santa Clara
are all appealing towns, this last a must for those
interested in Che Guevaras life. A good route for a
tour could begin with Matanzas and Varadero, Aerial view of Cayo Libertad,
before turning south to Cienfuegos, perhaps via off the coast of Varadero
the Pennsula de Zapata. From there
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GETTING AROUND
The provinces of Central Cuba West are traversed
by the Carretera Central; although the motorway
(Autopista Nacional) which links Havana and Santa
Clara is a much faster (though less scenic) road. The
railway line connecting Havana to Santiago passes
through Matanzas and Santa Clara, while another
links Havana and Trinidad via Cienfuegos. There are
also daily return flights from Havana to Cienfuegos,
Varadero and Santa Clara. For visitors with limited
time, it may be best to go on an organized tour.
One of the bronze statues by Rita Longa in the These typically cover a province or a few cities,
reconstruction of the Indian village at Guam and include visits to parks.

For additional map symbols see back flap

 C E N T R A L C U B A W E S T 157

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Crdenas 5
Cienfuegos pp16871 7
Cuevas de Bellamar 3
Jardn Botnico
Soledad pp1723 8
Matanzas pp1589 1
Pennsula de Zapata
pp1647 6
Remedios q
Santa Clara pp1746 9
Sierra del Escambray 0
Valle de Yumur 2 The arcades of the Prado with Corinthian columns in Cienfuegos

Varadero pp1623 4

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6ALLEDE
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5SJOJEBE KEY
Motorway

Major road

Minor road

Regional border

Main railway

Summit
Signpost at the entrance to the province of Villa Clara
158 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Matanzas 1 P Teatro Sauto

Calle Magdalena y Milans. Tel (45)
Situated on the shores of a large 242 721. # TueSun. 20 Dec
bay, Matanzas is the capital of the 5 Jan & 15 Aug1 Sep. & 8 6
province of the same name. It is a The pride and joy of the city,
major industrial town, with the this theatre was designed by
Stained-glass window, the Italian architect Daniele
Triolet pharmacy
fourth most important port in the DellAglio, who was also
world for sugar exports. Because of responsible for the church of
the many bridges over the Yumur and San Juan rivers, San Pedro in the Versalles
linking the historic centre to the various quarters of district. On 6 April 1863 the
Matanzas and its two suburban districts (Versalles and auditorium was opened to
Pueblo Nuevo), the city has been called the Creole the public as the Esteban
Venice, a match for the no less ambitious Athens of Theatre, in honour of the
Cuba. These two names date back to the 19th century, provincial governor who had
financed the construction. It
when the artistic and cultural life of the city, the hub of a was later renamed the Sauto
flourishing agricultural region, outshone that of Havana. Theatre because of the
Matanzeros affection for the
local pharmacist, Ambrosio
de la Concepcin Sauto, a
passionate theatre-goer. He
was famous for having cured
Queen Isabella II of Spain of
a skin disease, using a lotion
he had himself prepared.
A solidly built Neo-
Classical structure with
several Greek-inspired
statues made of Carrara
marble, the theatre has
various frescoes of Renais-
sance inspiration, executed
by the architect DellAglio
himself. The U-shaped
Teatro Sauto in Matanzas with its beautiful wood-panelling interior is almost entirely
covered with wood-panelling.
The Centre of Matanzas collection includes documents Because of its exceptional
The streets in Matanzas are and objects concerning the acoustics, the versatile theatre
officially indicated by a history of the province from has been the chosen venue
number, but in practice their the Pre-Columbian period to for all kinds of shows and
Colonial names are still 1959. The section devoted to great 19th- and 20th-century
commonly used. the Colonial period, with docu- Cuban artists have appeared
The historic centre can be ments on slavery and sugar here. World-famous perfor-
seen in a few hours. A good cane farm tools, is of particular mers have included actress
place to start is Plaza de la interest. Copies of Aurora, the Sarah Bernhardt (in Camille
Viga, connected to the out- most interesting Cuban in 1887), ballet dancer Anna
skirts by the Concordia and periodical of the 19th century, Pavlova and the guitarist
Calixto Garca bridges. In the are also on display. Andrs Segovia.
square is the statue of an
unknown soldier of the wars
of independence, and around THE DANZON
it stand several of the citys In the 19th century two
key sights: the Neo-Classical composers, Jos White and
fire station (1898), the Palace Miguel Failde, were born in
of Justice (1826), the Museo Matanzas, which was at that time
Provincial, the Sauto Theatre a major cultural centre. In 1879
and Ediciones Viga. the latter composed Las Alturas
de Simpson, which introduced a
E Museo Provincial new musical genre to Cuba, the
Calle Milans, e/ Magdalena y Ayllon. Danzn. This Caribbean and
Tel (45) 243 195. # 9:30am5pm Creole adaptation of European
TueSat, 8:30amnoon Sun. country dancing became the most Period print of people
Mon. & 8 6 popular dance on the island for dancing the Danzn
This museum occupies the about fifty years. It is still danced
Palacio del Junco, a bright in Matanzas, in the Casa del Danzn, the house where
blue porticoed building Failde was born, which is now a music museum.
constructed in 1838. The
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp25863 and pp28082
 C E N T R A L C U B A W E S T 159

village of Yacayo. In the mid- VISITORS CHECKLIST

dle of the plaza is an impres-
sive statue of Jos Mart, sur- Matanzas. Road Map B2.
rounded by some attractive * 150,000. k Carretera
buildings: the Liceo Artstico y Regalito, km 5.5, Varadero, (45)
Literario (1860); the Casino 247 015. Ave. 8 y 5, (45) 292
Espaol, built in the early 409. @ Calzada de Esteban,
1900s; the Palacio del (45) 291 473. n Havanatur,
Gobierno; the Catedral de Calle Jovellanos e/n Medio y Ro,
San Carlos, dating from the (45) 253 856.
Bookbinding at the Ediciones 17th century but mostly rebuilt
Viga publishing house in the 19th century; and, next
to Hotel El Louvre, the Museo advertising posters boasting
Ediciones Viga Farmacutico de Matanzas. about the miraculous curative
Calle Magdalena 1, Plaza de la Viga. powers of Dr Triolets
Tel (45) 244 845, (45) 260 917. # E Museo Farmacutico remedies. The faade of the
8:30am4pm MonFri. 1 Jan, 1 de Matanzas pharmacy faces the square.
May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec. = Calle Milans 4951, e/ Santa Teresa The shop also serves as a
This publishing houses y Ayuntamiento. Tel (45) 243 179. bureau of scientific informa-
products are entirely hand- # 10am5pm MonSat, 10am2pm tion, with more than a million
crafted duplicated, painted Sun. & 8 6 (with charge) original formulae and rare
and bound on special This fine example of a 19th- books on botany, medicine,
untreated or recycled paper. century pharmacy, overlooking chemistry and pharmaceuticals,
Visitors can watch the various Parque Libertad, was founded in several foreign languages.
stages of production and buy on 1 January 1882 by Ernesto
books (on poetry, theatre and Triolet and Juan Fermn de
history) by Cuban and foreign Figueroa and turned into a
authors, as well as periodicals. museum in 1964.
On the wooden shelves
Parque Libertad stand the original French
Calle Milans, an important porcelain vases decorated by
commercial street, leads to hand, others imported from
the citys other large square, the US, and an incredible
Parque Libertad (formerly quantity of small bottles with
the parade ground), where herbs, syrups and elixirs. The
military parades were held in museum also has a collection
the 1800s. The square was of three million old labels, The wooden shelves at the Museo
built on the site of the Indian mortars and stills, and Farmacutico de Matanzas

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160 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

The Bacunayagua bridge, 110 m (360 ft) high, spanning the Yumur river

Valle de Yumur 2 where the Nuestra Seora de Spanish. Another version

Monserrat Sanctuary is came in a letter written by
Matanzas. Road Map B2. located, there is a fabulous the Swedish writer Fredrika
view of the bay of Matanzas. Bremer, who visited Cuba in
The Bacunayagua bridge, Legends vary concerning the the late 19th century. Accord-
7 km (4 miles) west of origins of the word Yumur. ing to her, in order to escape
Matanzas, is a fine work of The most fantastic associates it from slavery, Siboney Indians
Cuban engineering. At 110 m with the lamentation of the used to commit suicide by
(360 ft), it is the highest Indians massacred by the throwing themselves into the
bridge in Cuba. Built over river while screaming Yo
the Yumur river in the early mor (I died).
1960s, it offers lovely views
of the peaceful, wooded
valley below, which can be Cuevas
reached via a road running de Bellamar 3
parallel to the river.
This attractive area of Carretera de las Cuevas de Bellamar,
undulating land dotted with Matanzas. Road Map B2.
royal palm trees is well # daily.
known for its many centres &86=-0
and clinics specializing in
treatments for stress, asthma Discovered by chance in
and high blood pressure. A huge limestone formation in 1861 by a slave who was
From the Monserrat hill, the Cuevas de Bellamar surveying the terrain in search
of water, the fascinating Bel-
lamar caves lie just 5 km (3
THE HERSHEY TRAIN miles) southeast of Matanzas.
The first stretch of the Hershey Only the first 3 km (2 miles)
rail line, inaugurated in 1916, of these extensive caves have
connected the Hershey sugar been explored to date, and
factory and the village of Canas, expert speleologists say there
both near the coast west of are still many surprises in
Matanzas. The electrical system store. Access to the public,
was one of the first in Cuba. with a specialist guide, is
In 1924 there were 38 pairs of limited to the first 1,500 m
trains, though only four covered (5,000 ft) of the caves. This
the full distance between Havana stretch includes caves and
and Matanzas. Today, the Hershey galleries covered with crystal
train links Casablanca (see p111) formations in intriguing
and Matanzas (pp1589) via shapes. The temperature is a
beautiful scenery, covering 89 constant 26 C (79 F), thanks
The small Hershey km (55 miles) in 3 hours 20 to the continuous seepage
electric train minutes, with frequent stops. of the cave walls. This
impressive tour (available
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp25863 and pp28082
 C E N T R A L C U B A W E S T 161

daily) goes 26 m (85 ft) below

sea level, and visitors can see
marine fossils dating from 26
million years ago. Trained
speleologists are allowed to
enter a cave that is 50 m
(164 ft) below sea level.
At Varadero guided tours
of the Bellamar caves can be
booked at the larger hotels.

Varadero 4
See pp1623.

Crdenas 5 The linear faade of the historic Dominica building at Crdenas

Matanzas. Road Map BC 2. possible areas of employment: led by Narciso Lpez hoisted
* 100,000. work on a farm or a job of the Cuban flag here for
some kind in Varaderos the first time.
On arriving in Crdenas, 50 km important tourist industry. In the second major square,
(31 miles) east of Matanzas A closer look at the Parque Echevarra, is a fine
and 18 km (11 miles) south squares and monuments Neo-Classical building, erected
of Varadero, visitors may feel allows visitors to appreciate in 1862, which was once the
they are entering another age. the little hidden gems in this citys district prison. It was
This is mostly due to the town. Parque Coln, one of turned into the Museo
presence of gigs and one- the two main squares in Municipal Oscar Mara de
horse carriages which, having Crdenas, is dominated by Rojas in 1900, making it the
regained popularity during the first statue of Christopher oldest town museum in Cuba.
the Periodo Especial (see Columbus erected in Cuba, It houses a collection of coins,
p53), circulate in their inaugurated in 1862 by Ger- arms, shells, minerals, butter-
dozens through the streets. trudis Gmez de Avellaneda, flies and stuffed animals.
The town, considered one the 19th-century Hispanic- Crdenas is also famous for
of the most symmetrical on Cuban author (see p28). being the birthplace of Jos
the island, was founded in Next to the Iglesia de la Antonio Echevarra (193257),
1828 as San Juan de Dios de Inmaculada Concepcin the revolutionary who was
Crdenas. In the 19th century (1846) is a very important president of the University
the town thrived thanks to the monument: the Dominica Students Federation in
flourishing sugar industry. building. In 1850, when it Havana. He waged an anti-
Today, however, except for was the headquarters of the Batista campaign and was
a rum factory near the port, Spanish government in Cuba, assassinated by the police.
Crdenas offers only two Cuban nationalist troops The house he was born in is
now a museum with an
interesting historical
survey of revolution-
ary Cuba; it also
has on display items
that once belonged
to Echevarra.

E Museo Municipal
Oscar Mara de Rojas
Calzada 4, e/ Jos Antonio
Echevarra y Jos Mart.
Tel (45) 522 417. # 9am
6pm TueSat, 9am1pm Sun.
& 8 6 (with charge).
E Museo Casa Natal
de Jos Antonio
Echevarra
Plaza Jos A Echevarra.
Tel (45) 524 145. # 9am
6pm TueSat, 9am1pm
Sun. 1 Jan, 1 May, 26
Jul, 25 Dec. & 8 ^
Crdenas, the city of horse-drawn carriages
162 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Varadero 4 Y Parque Retiro Josone

Avenida Primera y Calle 56.
Cubas top resort, which occupies the Tel (45) 667 228.
19-km (12-mile) long Pennsula de # daily.
Hicacos, is connected to the mainland This is a beautiful park, with
by a drawbridge, a sign of Varaderos elegant trees, tropical flowers
and plants, three restaurants
Monument to
exclusivity. When, in the late 19th century, and a small lake where birds
the Indians some families from Crdenas bought part gather and tourists row boats.
of the land on the peninsula and built It was established in 1942 by
themselves summer residences on the north coast, Jos Uturri, the owner of the
Varadero became a fashionable beach for the wealthy. Arrechabala ronera, the rum
After Castro took power in 1959, the area was opened factory just outside Crdenas.
up to all kinds of people, and is now especially popular He named it Josone, a combi-
with Canadians and Europeans, drawn to the white, nation of the first syllable
of his Christian name and
sandy beaches, clear blue water and good facilities. that of his wife, Onelia.
The park is a hit with
children, who can enjoy a
miniature train and camel
rides, among other attractions.

E Museo Municipal
Calle 57 y Playa. Tel (45) 613 189.
# 10am7pm TueSun. & 8
6 (with charge).
The Municipal Museum
recounts the history of
Varadero both as an urban
and tourist centre and also
The attractive home of Varaderos municipal museum has a collection of Indian
tools on display. It is interest-
Exploring Varadero hotels, the major yacht clubs ing primarily because of
The peninsula which can and a golf course are located. the building which it occupies.
be toured by hiring a bicycle, The Autopista Sur (motorway) The white and blue
scooter or one-horse carriage runs along the southern coast. wooden chalet with French
is a succession of hotels, roof tiles is characteristic of
restaurants, holiday villages, The Historic Centre the architectural style imported
bars, discos, shops, cinemas, The old centre of Varadero, from the US and in fashion in
camping sites and sports which has no significant his- Varadero and the Caribbean
centres, all set among lush torical monuments, lies area in the early 1900s.
greenery that includes around the Iglesia de Santa The architect Leopoldo
bougainvillea, royal Elvira and the Parque Abreu, the original owner of
poinciana, coconut palms Central, in Avenida 1ra this villa, landscaped splendid
and seagrapes. between Calle 44 and 46. The gardens which visitors to the
The main road along the oldest hotel of note is Hotel museum can still enjoy. One
northern side of the peninsula Internacional (at the western side of the museum faces the
is Avenida Primera (1ra), the end of Avenida Las Amricas), sea, and the balcony on the
eastern part of which is which was built in the 1950s, first floor offers a fine view
named Avenida Las Amricas. complete with a casino and over the splendid beach
It is here that the main luxury extravagant swimming pool. and the coastline.

VARADERO
Straits of Florida

Airport

PENINSULA DE Baha KEY

de Crdenas
HICACOS Autopista Sur motorway
Crdenas Major road

Minor road
0 km 1 Pre-Columbian site
0 miles 1 Tourist information

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp25863 and pp28082
 C E N T R A L C U B A W E S T 163

VISITORS CHECKLIST
Matanzas. Road Map B2.
* 10,000. k @ Autopista Sur
y 36, (45) 612 626. n Cubatur,
Ave 1ra y Calle 33, (45) 614 405;
Havanatur, Ave 2da y Calle 33,
(45) 667 027.

Upon request, golf players

can book accommodation
in the few luxury bedrooms
A stretch of the magnificent beach at Varadero in the villa.

P Restaurante Las dressed with Italian marble T Punta Hicacos

Amricas (Mansin Xanad) and precious wood. The roof For those interested in wild-
Avenida Las Amricas, was covered with green life, the most fascinating part
Reparto Las Torres. Tel (45) 667 750. ceramic tiles with thermal of Varadero is the area near
# lunch and dinner. insulation. The house was Punta Hicacos, which has
During the years from 1920 to surrounded by a huge garden become a nature reserve.
1950 an American millionaire, with rare plants and features Here you can visit several
chemical engineer Alfred which included an iguana caves, including the Cueva
Irne Dupont de Nemours, farm and a golf course. This de Ambrosio, with Pre-
gambled a great deal of extravagant construction cost Columbian rock paintings,
money by purchasing most of $338,000, an enormous sum a lagoon area (Laguna de
the beautiful Hicacos penin- at the time. Mangn), and some quiet,
sula from the heirs of the In 1959, after the secluded beaches.
Spanish landowners. At that Revolution, Dupont escaped The peninsula is also an
time there were only a few from Cuba, leaving the villa to attraction for scuba divers,
villas and one hotel here. the Cuban government, who have 23 dive sites to
Dupont then parcelled the which, in 1963, turned it into choose from.
land out to Cubans and Las Amricas, the
Americans who, within a few most elegant restau-
years, had transformed rant in Varadero. It
Varadero into a centre for specializes in French
gambling and prostitution. cuisine, but can be
At the height of his visited without any
property dealings, Dupont obligation to eat
asked the two Cuban there. The dining
architects Govantes and room still has its
Cabarrocas, who had original furniture,
designed the Capitolio in and in the library
Havana (see pp823), to there are books and
design a villa for the rocky photographs of the
promontory of San Dupont family on
Bernardino, the highest point display. The large
in Varadero. This sumptuous terrace overlooking
four-storey building, the Varadero Golf
completed in 1929 and Club course is part The former Mansin Xanad, now a bar-
named Mansin Xanad, was of the bar area. restaurant, with its distinctive green roof

Straits of Florida

Golf course

Baha
de Crdenas

VARADERO
Museo Municipal 3
Parque Central 1
Parque Retiro Josone 2
Punta Hicacos 5
Villa Xanad 4
164 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Pennsula de Zapata 6

This peninsula is named after the land-

owner who was granted the land by
the Spanish crown in 1636. It
is one of the least populated areas of
the island, and mostly consists of a
huge swamp, partly covered by forest.
Pineapple plants, In the past the inhabitants made their
common here living by extracting peat and making
charcoal. Zapata is one of the most
complete wildlife reserves in the Caribbean, rich in
birds and animals, and one part, the area around the
Laguna del Tesoro, has been designated a national park, A mangrove swamp, characteristic
the Gran Parque Natural de Montemar. The Caribbean of some tropical coastal areas
coast, with its sandy beaches, attracts scuba divers
and fans of other water sports.
Santo Toms
Corral de Santo Quemado Grande
STAR SIGHTS Toms is a refuge and Maneadero
. Guam observation point for
migratory birds. It can
. Playa Larga only be visited with an
official guide (ask at the
. Playa Girn reception desk of the
Villa Playa Larga Hotel).

Z A PATA
THE FAUNA OF THE ZAPATA SWAMP
This habitat supports about 150 species of bird, including The Laguna de
the zunzuncito (see p21), the Cuban Pygmy owl, the Zapata las Salinas is the
rail, a rare type of baldicoot, waterhen, various species of winter home of
parrot, and heron. Along the coast manatees can be seen many species of
(the Caribbean species is over 4 m/13 ft long and weighs migratory bird
about 600 kg/1,320 lbs). The beaches and roads are invaded from November
each spring by crabs leaving the water to mate. to May.

The local crocodile (Cocodrilo The Cuban Pygmy owl

rhombifer) has been protected (Glaucidium siju) is a small
since the 1960s. nocturnal raptor.

KEY
Major road

Minor road

Aerotaxi

Tourist information

The grey heron lives in the The zunzuncito (Mellisuga Recommended beach
mangrove swamps and feeds helenae) is multi-coloured Nature reserve
on small fish and amphibia. (male) or black-green (female).
Medical centre

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp25863 and pp28082
 C E N T R A L C U B A W E S T 165

Central Australia VISITORS CHECKLIST

The headquarters
of the Cuban Armed Matanzas. Road Map B2.
* 10,000. 4 from Boca
Forces in 1961, dur-
de Guam to Guam. n Villa
ing the Bay of Pigs Playa Larga, (45) 987 294, 987
conflict, this sugar 206; Guam, (45) 915 551; Villa
refinery now houses Playa Girn, (45) 984 148.
the Museo de la
Comandancia.

Central
Australia . Guam
Home to a holi-
Cienfuegos
Trinidad day resort, built
on ten islands
in the Laguna
del Tesoro,
Matanzas Guam also
Varadero
features the
Aldea Tana, a
Boca de
Guam reconstruction
of a typical
pre-Columbian
Laguna
del Tesoro
village.

Plpite

Caletn Soplillar
Molina
Playa
Buena Larga
Ventura La Majagua

Los Sbalos
Bah
ia d

Caleta
e

del
Coch

Rosario
El Jiqu
inos

Bay of
Pigs
(p163) . Playa Larga
With its decent beach and hotel,
Playa Larga is a good base for
Punta Perdiz Helechal
exploring the swamp.

Playa Caleta Buena, a splendid

Girn cove 8 km (5 miles) from
El Polvorn Playa Girn, is perfect for
scuba diving.
0 kilometres 6
Playa
0 miles 6
Maceo

. Playa Girn
This beach is best known
La Cueva de los Peces
as the site of the final
is a natural pool
(cenote), 70 m (230 ft) battle between Fidel
deep, lying along a Castros armed forces
fault line. It is an ideal and the counter-
spot for scuba diving revolutionary army,
and snorkelling. which took place on
1719 April 1961.
166 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Exploring the Pennsula de Zapata

The Pennsula de Zapata is
synonymous with unspoiled
nature and luxuriant tropical
vegetation. It is a place where
visitors can walk among lianas,
A welcome sign at the mangroves and swamp plants, lie
Pennsula de Zapata
in a hammock in the shade of Statue of Manguanay by the Cuban
palm trees, observe birds with multicoloured plumage, sculptress Rita Longa, Guam
go fishing, or row a boat on the Laguna del Tesoro.
The tranquil Gran Parque Natural de Montemar attracts Also of interest is the
lovers of wildlife and untouched habitats, rather than reconstructed Tano village of
adventure seekers. In any case, there is nothing to be Aldea Tana, which occupies
feared from the wildlife there are no ferocious beasts another of the islands in the
or poisonous snakes on the island. lagoon. It comprises four earth
bohos (typical Indian huts),
a caney (a larger round
Boca de Guam The huts are supported on building), and 25 life-size
Arriving from the north, after stilts and are connected to one statues of natives by the well-
passing through Jagey another by hanging bridges or known Cuban sculptress Rita
Grande, which has the largest by canoe. In fact, the only way Longa. The figures form the
citrus groves in Cuba, and to reach this tourist village is Batey Aborigen, or native
Central Australia (see p165), by boat, which takes about 20 Indian square, and represent
you reach Boca de Guam. minutes to travel along the the few people who lived in
Here a picturesque ranchn, a luxuriantly fringed canal to the the village: a young girl named
kind of rustic hut, converted lagoon from Boca de Guam. Dayam; a crocodile hunter,
into a restaurant, indicates that This unusual resort also Abey; Cajimo, hunter of jutas
you are near the Criadero de includes a restaurant, a bar, (a type of rodent, see p146);
Cocodrilos, or crocodile farm. and a small museum, Muestras Manguanay, the mother who
Visitors can watch and photo- Aborgenes, which has on is preparing casabe (cassava)
graph the crocodiles from an display some finds dating back for her family; Yaima, a little
observation point overlooking to the Tano civilization, girl who is playing; and the
the farm in the Zapata swamp. discovered in the Laguna key figure, Guam, the heroic
Founded in 1962 to safe- del Tesoro area. Tano warrior.
guard 16 endangered species
of reptile, this is the largest
crocodile farm in Cuba and
includes about 100,000 animals
kept in separate pools accord-
ing to size, age and species.
O Criadero de Cocodrilos
# daily. & 0 ) =

Guam
This unusual holiday village
(see p260) in the Laguna del
Tesoro (Treasure Lake),
measuring 16 sq km (6 sq
miles), is named after Guam,
a Tano warrior who resisted
the Spanish conquistadors
until he was killed in 1533.
The village consists of 18
huts standing on several
small islands in the lagoon.
Built of royal palm wood and
thatched with palm leaves,
the huts provide simple
accommodation. However,
they are equipped with
modern amenities, including
air-conditioning. Make sure
you take adequate supplies
of mosquito repellent if you
plan to stay here. One of the 18 thatched huts in the Laguna del Tesoro
 C E N T R A L C U B A W E S T 167

Playa Larga
At the end of the Bay of Pigs
is one of the better beaches
along this part of Caribbean
coastline, where thick
vegetation usually grows
down as far as the shore.
The coral reef offshore offers
magnificent dive sites. Playa
Largas resort area is a popular
destination with Cubans and
there are also enough facilities
to attract international tourists.
Near the car park, a
monument commemorates
the landing of the anti-Castro
troops in 1961, while along Cueva de los Peces (see p165), near Playa Larga, ideal for diving
the road to Playa Girn there
are numerous monuments Playa Girn at the entrance to the beach
honouring the Cuban defend- This beach was named in the reads: Here North American
ers who died in the famous 1600s after a French pirate, imperialism suffered its
three-day battle. Gilbert Giron, who found first major defeat.
Northeast of Playa Larga is refuge here. It became Situated on the eastern side
an ornithological reserve, and famous three centuries later, of the Bay of Pigs, this is the
the Centro Internacional de when it was the site of the ill- last sandy beach in the area,
Aves (International Bird fated, American-backed ideal for fishing and diving
Centre) of Cuba. landing in 1961. A large sign and also equipped with good
tourist facilities.
A must is a visit to the small
Museo Girn, which covers
the anti-Castro invasion using
photos, documents, weapons,
a tank and the wreckage of
aeroplanes that took part in
the last battle, as well as films
taken during the invasion.
E Museo Girn
Playa Girn, Pennsula de Zapata.
Tel (45) 984 122. # 8am5pm
daily. & 8 6 (with charge).
Playa Girn, the easternmost sandy beach in the Bay of Pigs

THE BAY OF PIGS INVASION

The long, narrow Bay of Pigs (Baha de himself, who were well prepared for the
Cochinos) became known throughout the battle and had the support of the local
world in 1961. On April 14 of that year, population. The fighting lasted just three
at the height of the Cold War, a group of days and ended in the rapid defeat of the
1,400 Cuban exiles, trained by the CIA with invaders. In order to avoid an international
the approval of the president of the United crisis, which could have escalated into an
States, John F Kennedy, left Nicaragua for extremely serious situation, given the Soviet
Cuba on six ships. The next day, six US Unions support of Cuba, the US suddenly
B-26 aeroplanes attacked withdrew its aerial
the islands three military support, leaving the
air bases, their bombs invading forces at the
killing 7 people and mercy of Cuban troops.
wounding 53. The abandoned
On April 16 the invaders, many of whom
group of counter- were mercenaries, were
revolutionaries landed taken prisoner and
on the main beaches immediately tried. After
along the bay, Playa 20 months in prison, they
Larga and Playa Girn. were allowed to return to
However, they were the US in exchange for
confronted by the supplies of medicine,
Cuban armed forces, The hostages released by Cuba on their foodstuffs and equipment
headed by Fidel Castro return to the US for Cuban hospitals.
168 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Cienfuegos 7 late 1800s. The austere, well-

proportioned faade on the
The capital of the province of the Parque Central has five arches
same name, Cienfuegos is a maritime corresponding to the number
town with a well-preserved historic of entrances. The ceramic
centre and one of the most captivating masks on the pediment, made
by the Salvatti workshops
bays in the Caribbean Sea, which in Venice, represent the
helped earn the city the name Pearl of Three Graces.
The triumphal the South in the Colonial era. When To the left of the theatre is
arch (1902) Columbus discovered the gulf in 1494, the Neo-Classical Colegio de
it was occupied by Jagua Indians. In San Lorenzo, built thanks to a
order to defend the bay from pirates, the Spanish built a generous donation by the aca-
fortress here in 1745. The first town was founded in demic Nicols Jacinto Acea to
1819, and was named after the Cuban Governor General ensure that needy children in
the town would be educated.
of the time, Jos Cienfuegos. The town was planned
according to a geometric layout typical of Neo-Classicism. R Catedral de la Pursima
Concepcin
occupied by the Antiguo Ave. 56 No. 2902 y Calle 29. Tel (43)
Ayuntamiento, now 525 297. # 7am2pm TueFri, 7am
the home of the provincial noon, 24pm Sat, 711:30am Sun. 5
government assembly, 7:15am MonSat, 7:30 & 10am Sun.
supposedly modelled on The cathedral of Cienfuegos,
the Capitolio in Havana which was constructed in
(see pp823). 183369, is one of the major
buildings on the central square.
P Teatro Toms Terry Its distinguishing features are
Ave. 56 No. 2703 y Calle 27. the Neo-Classical faade with
Tel (43) 513 361. # daily. two bell towers of different
&86 heights, and stained-glass win-
This theatre was built in dows made in France depicting
188689 to fulfil the last will the Twelve Apostles.
and testament of Toms Terry
Adams, an unscrupulous E Museo Provincial
sugar factory owner who had Ave 54 No. 2702 esq. Calle 27.
become wealthy through the Tel (43) 519 722. # 10am6pm
The zero kilometre in slave trade and then became TueSat, 9am1pm Sun.
the Parque Mart mayor. World-famous figures 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 25 Dec.
such as Enrico Caruso and & 8 6 (with charge).
Parque Mart Sarah Bernhardt performed The Provincial Museum is in
The zero kilometre, the here in the early 1900s. the former Casino Espaol,
central point of Cienfuegos, The theatre was designed an eclectic-style building first
is in the middle of Parque by Lino Snchez Mrmol as opened on 5 May 1896. The
Mart, the former Plaza de an Italian-style theatre, with furniture, bronze, marble and
Armas (parade ground). The a splendid U-shaped, two- alabaster objects, crystal and
vast square, a 200 x 100 m tiered auditorium and a huge porcelain collections, bear
(655 x 330 ft) rectangle, has fresco by Camilo Salaya, a witness to the refined taste
been declared a national Philippine-Spanish painter and wealth of 19th-century
monument because of the who moved to Cuba in the families in Cienfuegos.
surrounding buildings and its
historic importance. It was
here that the foundation of
Cienfuegos was celebrated
with a solemn ceremony in
the shade of a hibiscus tree,
chosen as a marker for laying
out the citys first 25 blocks.
Lions on a marble pedestal
flank a monument to Jos
Mart, erected in 1906. On
Calle Bouyn stands the only
triumphal arch in Cuba,
commissioned by the local
workers corporation in 1902
to celebrate the inauguration
of the Republic of Cuba. One
side of the square is entirely The austere faade of the Teatro Toms Terry

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp25863 and pp28082
 C E N T R A L C U B A W E S T 169

wrought-iron spiral staircase VISITORS CHECKLIST

to enjoy the fine views over
the city. Cienfuegos. Road Map C3.
* 150,000. k Carretera de
E Museo Histrico Naval Cajonao, km 3.5, (43) 551 328.
Nacional Ave. 58 y Calle 4, (43) 525
Ave. 60 y Calle 21, Cayo Loco. 495. @ Calle 49, e/ Ave. 56 y
Tel (43) 519 143. # 10am6pm 58, (43) 525 898. n Cubatur,
TueSat, 8am1pm Sun. 1 Jan, Calle 37 e/n 54 y 56, (43) 551 242.
1 May, 26 Jul, 25 Dec. & 6
A short walk northwest of
Parque Jos Mart, on the Cayo Paseo del Prado
Loco peninsula, is the most The liveliest street in town is
important naval museum in known for its elegant, well-
Palacio Ferrer, with its Cuba, featuring a series of preserved buildings and the
unmistakable blue cupola documents concerning the monuments honouring
anti-Batista insurrection of leading local figures. It crosses
P Palacio Ferrer 5 September 1957, and an the historic centre and goes
Ave. 54 esq. Calle 25. Tel (43) interesting display recording south as far as Punta Gorda.
516 584. # for cultural events. the history of the Cuban Navy. It was laid out in 1922.
The palacio that houses the
Casa Provincial de la Cultura
was built in the early 1900s
by the sugar magnate Jos
Ferrer Sirs. Enrico Caruso is
said to have stayed here
when he performed at the
Teatro Toms Terry.
This building stands on the
western end of the plaza and
is the most bizarre and
eclectic in the square. It is
distinguished by its cupola
with blue mosaic decoration.
It is worth climbing up the Paseo del Prado, the main street in the historic centre of Cienfuegos

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170 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Exploring Cienfuegos
The presence of the sea at Cienfuegos makes itself felt
more and more the further you go from the historic
centre towards the Reina and Punta Gorda districts, two
narrow strips of land almost entirely surrounded by
water. However, for a fuller taste of the sea, go to the
mouth of the bay, which is dominated by the Castillo
de Jagua fortress with the picturesque Perch fishing
harbour. Southeast of Cienfuegos is one of Latin
Americas most spectacular botanic gardens.
seafront takes you past many
Art Nouveau villas. Various
brightly coloured wooden
houses can be seen towards
the tip of the peninsula.
They were modelled on the The interior of Palacio de Valle,
American prefabricated with its Neo-Moorish decoration
balloon frame homes that
were so much in vogue in Spanish style of the Alczars
the early 20th century. in Granada and Seville.
The faade has three towers
P Palacio de Valle of different design symbol-
Calle 37 e/ Ave. 0 y 2, Punta Gorda. izing power, religion
Tel (43) 551 003 ext 830. # 10am and love. The terrace is
10pm daily. 0 ) 6 open to the public.
The most original building
in the area, Palacio de Valle P Cementerio Monumental
The characteristic wooden was designed by local and Toms de Acea
houses of Punta Gorda foreign architects engaged by Ave. 5 de Septiembre. Tel (43)
the sugar merchant Acisclo 525 257. # daily. & 6
Punta Gorda del Valle Blanco, one of the This impressive monumental
At the southern tip of the bay wealthiest men in Cuba. It cemetery lies in the eastern
of Cienfuegos lies Punta was built in 191317. This suburb of Cienfuegos. Varied
Gorda the aristocratic two-storey building, which is in stylistic influences, it was
quarter of the city in the early now a restaurant, is lavishly conceived as a large garden
1900s which affords a lovely decorated with Gothic, with paths and fruit trees.
panoramic view of the bay. Venetian and Neo-Moorish The entrance is a replica of
A short walk along the motifs, much in the Arab- the Parthenon in Athens.

Palacio de Valle, which Batista turned into a casino, now home to a restaurant
 C E N T R A L C U B A W E S T 171

P Cementerio
General La Reina
Ave. 50 y Calle 7,
Reina.
# daily. &
The municipal
cemetery of La
Reina is located
at the western end
of the city, and
has been declared
a national monu-
ment. Laid out in
the 1830s, this
Neo-Classical
cemetery includes a
famous funerary
statue of La Bella
Durmiente
(Sleeping Beauty). The statue of Sleeping Beauty in La Reina cemetery in Cienfuegos

+ Castillo de Jagua citadel was inhabited by a the majestic military structure

Poblado Castillo de Jagua. g mysterious lady dressed in above. Most visitors arrive by
Tel (43) 965 402. # 9am5pm Tue blue, who every night walked ferry from Pasacaballos hotel
Sat, 9am1pm Sun. & 8 6 (with through the rooms and corri- (29 km/18 miles south of
charge). dors, frightening the guards. It Cienfuegos), from the dock
Built by engineer Jos is said that one morning one in Cienfuegos, or on a boat
Tantete, following a design by of the guards was found in a from Punta Gorda.
Bruno Caballero, to protect state of shock while wringing
the bay and the region from a piece of blue cloth in Environs
Jamaican pirates, the Castillo anguish. The unfortunate Cienfuegos province is
was the third most important man never got over this interesting to eco-tourists.
fortress in Cuba in the 18th experience and ended up Besides the Ciego Montero
century and the only one in in an asylum. spa north of the capital, other
the central region of the At the foot of the Castillo is noteworthy sights are El
island. The original moat and the fishing village of Perch, Nicho, to the southeast, which
drawbridge are still intact. with picturesque wooden is famous for its waterfalls,
According to legend, the houses, in striking contrast to and the conservation area
of Aguacate.
However the main sight is
BENNY MORE the Valle de Yaguanabo, in
A great source of pride to Cienfuegos is the figure of Maxi- the southern region, which is
miliano Bartolom Mor, better known as Benny Mor, who traversed by the river of the
was born at nearby Santa Isabel de las Lajas on 24 August same name, which forms
1919. Mor inspired many generations of small waterfalls and clear
Cubans and foreigners with his supple, freshwater pools. On the
unique voice, which enabled him slopes of one of the moun-
to interpret a variety of musical tains in this valley, populated
genres. For this reason the artist by mammals such as boar,
was nicknamed el brbaro del deer and opossums, is the
ritmo (the barbarian of rhythm). He was entrance to the Cueva de
self-taught, and when still quite young Martn Infierno. This cave
performed with famous orchestras such has been a national
as those led by the Matamoros brothers monument since 1990,
and Prez Prado (see pp3031). He because it has one of the
died in the early 1960s. For some time largest stalagmites in the
Cienfuegos a city with a great world (67 m/220 ft high)
musical tradition and the birthplace and other rare minera-
of cha-cha-cha has paid tribute to logical sites such as
him with the Benny Mor Interna- Moonmilk and Flores
tional Festival. The Cabildo Congo de Yeso.
de Lajas in his home town puts on About 20 km (12 miles)
performances of Afro-Cuban south of Cienfuegos is
popular songs and dances. Playa Rancho Luna, with
golden sand and a hotel
(see p259). It is popular
The Cuban singer, Benny Mor with tourists and local
families alike.
172 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Jardn Botnico Soledad 8

In 1912 Edwin Atkins, owner of the Soledad sugar

works 15 km (9 miles) from Cienfuegos, transformed 4
ha (10 acres) of his estate into a sugar cane research
centre, and filled the garden with a great number of
tropical plants. In 1919 the University of Harvard bought
the property and founded a botanical institute for the
study of sugar cane and Caribbean flora. The botanical
garden has been run by the Cuban government since
1961, and is one of the largest in Latin America, with a
surface area of 90 ha (222 acres) and more than 1,500
different species of plant, including 210 palms. Besides
the endemic species there are also huge bamboo trees.
Guided tours, made partly on foot and partly by car,
reveal the exceptional diversification of the garden. . Garden Drive
Lined with royal palm trees,
Leguminous plants
the drive borders one entire
side from the entrance
to the glasshouse.

Laboratory

Ticket office,
library

Medicinal
plants, which
are grown
throughout the
country, can be
viewed in this
small plot.

Forest
plants

STAR SIGHTS
. Banyan Tree
. Garden Drive

Protected
woodland

. Banyan Tree
Among over 50 varieties of
fig in the botanical garden,
perhaps the most striking is
a huge Ficus benghalensis
or banyan tree, a species
with aerial roots (with
a circumference of over
20 m/65 ft). The roots,
trunks and branches form
an impenetrable barrier.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp25863 and pp28082
 C E N T R A L C U B A W E S T 173

VISITORS CHECKLIST Santa Clara 9

Calle Central 136, Pepito Tey, See pp1745.
Cienfuegos. Map C3. Tel (43)
545 115. # 8am4:30pm daily.
1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, Sierra del
25 Dec. & 8 = 6
Escambray 0
Villa Clara, Sancti Spritus,
Cienfuegos. Map C3. n Hotel los
Helechos, (42) 540 330.

The Sierra del Escambray

mountain range, with
an average height of 700 m
(2,300 ft) above sea level,
Cacti covers a large part of southern
Many species of cactus Central Cuba, across three
are housed in this provinces: Villa Clara, Cienfu-
glasshouse. They egos and Sancti Spritus (see
are young specimens, p191). In the heart of the
Water Lilies
grown after the serious range is the El Nicho nature
The pool near the glasshouse is reserve, which is of great
damage inflicted by entirely covered with water scientific and ecological value
hurricane Lilly (1996). lilies of different colours: bright with its abundant mountain
pink, white, dark purple, fauna and varied plantlife.
violet, blue and yellow. Pico San Juan (1,156 m/
3,790 ft), dotted with conifers
and lichens as well as coffee
plantations, is the highest
mountain in the Sierra.
A long steep road leads
from the northern side of the
mountains up to stunning
Embalse Hanabanilla, a large
artificial lake overlooked by a
hotel. The Ro Negro path,
which skirts the waterfall of the
same name, leads to a belve-
dere viewing point from which
one can see the entire lake.
In the village of Macagua
is the Comunidad Teatral
Mimosa del Escambray, an inter-
national theatre school.
With its deeply
The school was founded
divided leaves, the in 1968 by members of the
mimosa makes a Havana Theatre, who used
very attractive to rehearse here before
ornamental plant. touring rural communities.

PALM TREES
For many Cubans, palm trees
represent the power of the gods. A
great variety of species, many of them
native to Cuba, grow throughout the
island: the royal palm (Roystonea regia),
the national plant; the bottle palm
(Colpothrinax wrightii), called barrigona
(pregnant one), because the trunk swells
in the middle; the sabal, whose fan-like
leaves are used for roofing; the local
coccothrinax (C. crinita), with its
unmistakable foliage; and the corcho
(Microcycas calocoma, see p139).
Royal palm Bottle palm Coccothrinax palm
174 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Santa Clara 9

Founded on 15 July 1689 by a group of

inhabitants from Remedios (see p177),
who had moved away from the coast to
escape from pirate raids, Santa Clara was
for centuries the capital of the province of
Las Villas, which included the present-day
provinces of Cienfuegos, Sancti Spritus and
Bust of Villa Clara. One important historical event
Leoncio Vidal has made Santa Clara famous: in 1958 it
was here that the last battle of the guerrilla The Teatro de la Caridad, where
war led by Che Guevara took place, the battle which Enrico Caruso performed
marked the end of Batistas dictatorship. Santa Clara is
The theatre offered many
now known as the city of the heroic guerrilla. Today, additional services a barber
it is a lively city and has several interesting sights. shop, ballroom and gambling
room, caf and restaurant
with the aim of collecting
money to be given to the poor
in the city (hence its name,
Charity Theatre).
The building has a simple,
linear faade, in contrast to
the ornate interior, with its
profusion of chandeliers and
painted panels and a stage
with all kinds of mechanical
gadgets and draped curtains.
The auditorium itself, which
has three tiers of boxes with
wrought-iron balusters, had
folding seats in the stalls
right from the start some-
Santa Claras well-tended main square, Parque Leoncio Vidal thing completely new in
Cuba at the time.
Parque Leoncio Vidal Until 1894 the square was Perhaps the best feature
The heart of the city, this partly off limits to blacks, who of the theatre is the frescoed
charming square with its could only walk along certain ceiling, executed by the
pristine flower beds, wrought- areas of the pavement. Spanish-Philippine painter
iron benches and period Camilo Salaya, representing
street lamps has retained its P Teatro de la Caridad the allegorical figures of
original 1925 atmosphere. Parque Vidal 3. Tel (42) 205 548. Genius, History and Fame.
An obelisk stands here. It closed for restoration until late 2009.
was commissioned by the rich Built to a design by the E Museo de Artes
heiress Martha Abreu engineer Herminio Leiva y Decorativas
de Estvez in honour of two Aguilera for the heiress Martha Calle Martha Abreu esq. Luis Estvez
priests, Juan de Conyedo and Abreu de Estvez, this theatre Tel (42) 205 368. # 9am6pm
Hurtado de Mendoza. The was inaugurated in 1885. Mon, Wed & Thu, 110pm FriSat,
heiress also financed the con- 610pm Sun. & 8 6 (with
struction of the Teatro de la charge).
Caridad, the towns first four The excellent Decorative Arts
public bathhouses, the astro- Museum, housed in a
nomical observatory, the building dating from 1810,
electricity station, a hospital contains 17th-, 18th-, 19th-
and a fire station. and 20th-century furniture, as
There is also a bust of well as furnishings and
Leoncio Vidal, a colonel in paintings that belonged to
the national independence leading local families. Among
army who died in battle in the objects on display here,
1896, here in this square. those donated by the Cuban
There is also a fountain, and poetess Dulce Mara Loynaz
a sculpture entitled Nio de la (see p29) are particularly
Bota (child in boots), pur- elegant and delightful: five
chased by mail order from the fans, eleven sculptures and
J L Mott Company, an art An antique vase in a hall in the two Svres porcelain jars, the
dealer in New York. Museo de Artes Decorativas largest of their kind in Cuba.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp25863 and pp28082
 C E N T R A L C U B A W E S T 175

VISITORS CHECKLIST
Villa Clara. Road Map C3. *
250.000. Luis Estvez 323.
@ Carretera Central km 2.5.
n Havanatur, Calle Maximo
Gomez, (42) 204 002; Izla Azul,
Calle Lorda 6 (42) 217 338.

Also on show is the D-6

Caterpillar bulldozer that
was used by the guerrillas to
remove rails and cause the
derailment. The episode
ended with the surrender of
Batistas men.
The Tren Blindado Monument, a work by Jos Delarra
Parque Tudury
E Tren Blindado soldiers and weapons of all This square, in front of the
Monument kinds to the eastern region Neo-Classical Iglesia di Nuestra
Carretera Camajuan, junction with of Cuba in order to halt the Seora del Carmen (1756), is
railway line. Tel (42) 202 758. # advance of the rebels. also known as Parque El Car-
9am5:15pm MonSat. Cuban sculptor Jos Delarra men. Here stands a monument
On 28 December 1958, with commemorated this event by commemorating the founda-
the aid of only 300 men, creating a museummonument tion of the town of Santa Clara.
Che Guevara succeeded in on the spot where it took It was erected in 1951 around
conquering the city, which place, in the northeastern part a tamarind tree, on the spot
was fiercely defended by of Santa Clara, on the line to where, on 15 July 1689, the
3,000 of Batistas soldiers. Remedios. The sequence of first mass was celebrated in
The following day Guevara events is re-created using the new city. The monument
handed the dictator another original elements such as four consists of 18 columns on
severe setback by derailing wagons from the armoured which are carved the names
an armoured train that was train, military plans and maps, of the first families in Santa
supposed to transport 408 photographs and weapons. Clara, crowned by a cross.

0 metres 300 THE CENTRE OF

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 176 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

The group of sculptures in Santa Clara, dedicated to Che Guevara

P Conjunto Escultrico reveals the evolution of his containing the remains of

Comandante Ernesto revolutionary ideas. Ernesto Che Guevara and
Che Guevara Ches personal effects 38 other comrades, found
Avenida de los Desfiles, Santa Clara. include his pistol holster, his in Bolivia 30 years after their
Tel (42) 205 985. # 9am5pm uniform, watch, pipe, the death and transferred to
TueSat, 9am1pm Sun. container from which he used Cuba beginning of July 1997.
& 8 6 (outdoors only). to drink mate tea, his beret The tomb is in the shape of a
The monument in Plaza de and the telephone he used cave and consists of numbers
la Revolucin was built to during the campaign of Santa of niches with ossuaries as
commemorate the 30th Clara, along with his well as a central brazier
anniversary of the battle of binoculars, camera and radio. where an eternal flame burns.
Santa Clara. It was designed The newest construction in Cubans flock here daily in
by the architect Jorge Cao the square is the memorial order to pay their respects.
Campos and the sculptor Jos
Delarra, and was unveiled
on 28 December 1988. ERNESTO CHE GUEVARA
The complex comprises a When Ernesto Guevara
museum and memorial of Che de la Serna was killed
Guevara. Dominating the in Bolivia upon orders
monument is an impressive from the CIA, he was
bronze statue of Che, with his only 39 years old. In
arm in plaster (he had broken the summer of 1997
it in a previous battle). while Cuba was
Beneath, a bas-relief depicts celebrating the 30th
scenes from the battle, on anniversary of the
which are carved the historic death of the guerrillero
words that Che wrote in heroico the body of
his farewell letter before Che Guevara was
leaving for Bolivia. returned to the island.
Under the monument (the He was one of only
entrance is at the back) is two foreigners in the The photographer Korda with his
the museum, designed by the history of Cuba (the famous portrait of Che Guevara
architect Blanca Hernndez other is the Dominican
Guivernau, which has some general Mximo Gmez) to be proclaimed a Cuban citizen
of Ches personal belongings by birth. Watching his coffin being lowered from the
on display, together with a aeroplane to the sound of the Suite de las Amricas served to
chronological reconstruction remind everyone, especially young Cubans, that Che had died
of his life, which clearly and had therefore really existed; he was not merely a 20th-
century legend, but a reality for millions of people who had
shared his ideas. Further testimony is given by his children,
his widow Aleida March, many of those who fought with him
on the Sierra and in the Congo, and also Alberto Granado,
with whom Che made his first trips to Latin America and who,
after the Revolution, moved to Cuba on his friends invitation.
Though Che suffered from asthma, he had an iron will, loved
books as well as sports, and had a great spirit of sacrifice; he
could appreciate beauty and was a perfectionist but had a
sense of humour. He was a man of action who also found
Part of the bas-relief memorial time to meditate on reality and to write.
to Che Guevara

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp25863 and pp28082
 C E N T R A L C U B A W E S T 177

some personal belongings of

THE PARRANDAS
this talented 20th-century
personality are on display.
Garca Caturla was a
composer, pianist, saxophone
player, percussionist, violinist
and singer, as well as a fine
tennis player and rower,
journalist and art critic. He
caused a scandal by marrying
a black woman, by whom
he had 11 children. He A 19th-century print showing
defended the poor and was people gathering in the square
regarded as a fair and honest
Interior of the Iglesia de San Juan judge. His honesty was In 1829 the parish priest of
Bautista, Remedios cathedral ultimately the cause of his Remedios, Francisco Virgil
assassination on 12 November de Quiones, had the idea
Remedios q 1940, at the age of 34, by a of getting some boys to
defendant who had tried to bang on sheets of tin in
Villa Clara. Map C3. * 50,000. bribe him. order to get the lazier
@ n Hotel Mascotte, Calle Also in the square are three church members out of
Mximo Gmez 114, (42) 395 144. other noteworthy buildings. their homes to participate
_ Parrandas (24 Dec). The Mascotte hotel was the in the nighttime celebra-
site of an important meeting tions of the Advent
Founded around 1514 by between Generalissimo masses (Dec 1624).
Vasco Porcallo de Figueroa Mximo Gmez and a US In time this strange
and given the name of Santa delegation in 1899. The former concert developed into a
Cruz de la Sabana, this town Casino Espaol, now Casa de fully fledged festival, with
was renamed San Juan de la Cultura, and the El Louvre music, dances, parades
los Remedios del Cayo after caf, founded in 1866, also with floats and huge
a fire in 1578. stand here. wooden contraptions
This peaceful place has a However, Remedios is (trabajos de plaza). The
small, well-preserved Colonial probably most famous for the festivity is a sort of cross
historic centre in the area Parrandas, the local festival between Mardi Gras and
around Plaza Mart. Over- documented in the fascinating the Italian Palio horse race,
looking this square is the Museo de las Parrandas based on the competition
Iglesia de San Juan Bautista, Remedianas. Here, photo- between two quarters of
the city cathedral, which is graphs, musical instruments, Remedios, San Salvador
considered one of the most costumes, sketches, carriages and Carmen.
important churches in Cuba. and trabajos de plaza The Parrandas begin on
What we see today is the decorated wooden structures December 4 with concerts
result of restoration carried bring to life Parrandas performed with various
out in the 20th century thanks past and present. percussion instruments,
to the rich landowner Eutimio and end with a great
Falla Bonet, who revived its E House of Alejandro crescendo on Christmas
original Baroque splendour Garca Caturla Eve. The two trabajos de
without touching the Neo- Calle Camilo Cienfuegos 5. plaza, one per quarter,
# 8am5pm TueSat. Sun.
Classical bell tower. Most which are made during the
&86
striking are the lavish Baroque year, are left in Plaza Mart
altar and the magnificent E Museo de las Parrandas during the festivities. They
decorative ceiling. Remedianas are illuminated at nine in
Behind the cathedral is the Calle Mximo Gmez 71, esq. Andrs the evening and may have
del Ro. # TueSat, Sun am.
House of Alejandro Garca a historical, patriotic,
1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 25 Dec.
Caturla. Here, the musical political, scientific or archi-
&86
instruments, photographs and tectural theme. Later on
there are fireworks to wel-
come the entrance of the
floats (carrozas), which
never occurs before 3am.
These tableaux vivants
move among the crowd.
The most endearing
aspect of the Parrandas,
enlivened by songs, polkas
and rumbas, is that all the
inhabitants, of all ages,
take part.
Plaza Mart, the tranquil central square in Remedios
 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N 179

CENTRAL CUBA EAST

SANCTI SPIRITUS CIEGO DE VILA CAMAGEY LAS TUNAS

T
his area in the heart of the island presents two different facets.
One is Colonial, with Spanish traits which are visible in the
architecture and local customs and is best expressed in
beautiful Baroque Trinidad, and fascinating, labyrinthine Camagey.
The other aspect is unspoilt nature, the coastline dotted with cayos,
which has attracted visitors from abroad only in recent years.

Trinidad, Camagey and violent, while competi-

and Sancti Spritus, tion from Cienfuegos
the main cultural was becoming
centres in this region, were three of more intense. In
seven cities founded in the 16th the late 1800s the
century by a small group of Spaniards major landowners left the cities and as
led by Diego Velzquez. The 1600s and time went on they gradually ceded
1700s were marked by the threat posed their sugar factories to American
to Cuba by England and by pirate raids businessmen, who converted them into
such as that made by Henry Morgan at one large sugar-producing business.
Camagey (then Puerto Prncipe) in Camagey concentrated on livestock
1666. At that time Trinidad had political raising, still an important resource in
and military jurisdiction over the whole the province, while Trinidad had to
of central Cuba, where the economy engage in other activities such as
was based solely on sugar cane handicrafts and cigar-making. It
cultivation and the sale of sugar. The remained isolated from the rest of Cuba
great landowners resided in luxurious for a long time, since the railway was
mansions in these three cities. not extended to Trinidad until 1919
In the second half of the 19th century, and the road to Cienfuegos and Sancti
a period of crisis began with the advent Spritus was only laid out in the 1950s.
of new technology, for which there One result of this isolation, however,
was no skilled labour. Slave revolts, the is that the historic centres of Trinidad
first of which broke out in Camagey in and Sancti Spritus have preserved
1616, became increasingly frequent their Colonial atmosphere.

Aerial view of the causeway linking Cayo Coco to the mainland

Calle Simn Bolvar in Trinidad, sloping down towards the plain

 180 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Exploring Central Cuba East

From a cultural point of view, the most interesting
place in the area is the delightful town of Trinidad.
This small town also has a lovely beach nearby and
makes a good base for tours to the Sierra del
Escambray or for excursions to the Valle de los
Ingenios. A transit town, Sancti Spritus can seem
disappointing after Trinidad, while Camagey is
appealing both for its fascinating Colonial architecture
and as an authentic, vibrant Cuban city. The Atlantic
coast in the province of Ciego de vila is good for
swimming and diving, especially at Cayo Coco and Playa Prohibida at Cayo Coco,
Guillermo, where there are good tourist facilities. fringed by sand dunes

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 C E N T R A L C U B A E A S T 181

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Camagey pp200203 0
Cayo Coco pp1989 9
Cayo Sabinal e
Ciego de vila 6
Jardines de la Reina t
Jardines del Rey 8
Las Tunas r
Morn 7
Pennsula Ancn 3
Playa Santa Luca w
Sancti Spritus
pp1945 5
One of the Colonial houses around the peaceful pedestrian square Sierra de Cubitas q
of San Juan de Dios, in Camagey
Trinidad pp18290 1
Valle de los Ingenios 4

#AYO0AREDN Tours
'RANDE Topes de Collantes p191 2
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182 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Trinidad 1

This city was founded by Diego Velzquez in

1514, and was declared a World Heritage Site
by UNESCO in 1988. The original
cobblestone streets and pastel-coloured
houses give the impression that time has
scarcely moved on since Colonial times.
A cannon
used as a From the 1600s1800s, the city was a major
bollard centre for trade in sugar and slaves, and the
buildings around the Plaza Mayor, the heart . Palacio Brunet
of Trinidad, bear witness to the wealth of the landown- This mansion is now the
ers of the time. A long period of isolation from the Museo Romntico, with a
1850s to the 1950s protected the city from any radical collection of furniture and
new building and the original town layout has been left items that belonged
largely unchanged. The historic centre has recently been to the wealthiest
skilfully restored, down to details like the street lights. local families
(p185). Casa de
. Iglesia y Convento la Msica
de San Francisco Nuestra
The monastery is the home of Seora de
the Museo de la Lucha contra la Popa (see

SI
p190)
Bandidos, while the church

M
bell tower, the symbol of the city,

N
BO
offers fine views. The bell

L
dates from 1853 (p189).

VA
R

CALLE HERNNDEZ EC
HERRI
CALLE P
IRO GUI
T NAR

Canchnchara
This typical casa de infusiones, ENA
VILL
housed in an 18th-century T NEZ
E MAR
building, is known for its CALL
namesake cocktail canchnchara,
made from rum, lime, water and
honey. Live music is played here.
In Plazuela
del Jige,
where an acacia
STAR SIGHTS tree (jige)
stands, Father
. Palacio Brunet Bartolom de Las Casas The Museo de
celebrated the first mass Arqueologa
. Palacio Cantero in Trinidad in 1514 (p189). Guamuhaya
occupies an 18th-
. Iglesia y Convento de KEY century building where
San Francisco Suggested route
the naturalist Humboldt
once stayed (see p185).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2636 and p282
 T R I N I D A D 183

Iglesia Parroquial VISITORS CHECKLIST

de la Santsima Trinidad
The church of the Holy Sancti Spritus. Road Map C3.
* 50,000. @ Calle Piro
Trinity was built in the late
Guinart 224, e/ Maceo e
1800s on the site of a 17th- Izquierdo, (41) 992 404, 3737.
century church that had Ave. Simn Bolvar 422,
been destroyed by a cyclone. (41) 993 348. n Cubatur, Calle
It has an impressive carved Simn Bolvar 352, (41) 996 368.
wooden altar decorated with ( daily.
elaborate inlaid wood (p184).

La Casa de la Trova, a venue for listening

to live music (see p289), stands on the
The Casa de los Conspiradores, with Plazuela de Segarte, a small square
a wooden balcony on the corner, surrounded by 18th-century houses.
was the meeting place of the nationalist
secret society, La Rosa de Cuba.

PL
A
Z
U
SE D EL
GA E A
RT
E

Museo de Arquitectura Colonial

Housed in the beautifully restored
Casa de los Snchez Iznaga, this
museum illustrates the main features
of Trinidadian architecture (p184).
A
AZ
PL R
YO
MA

A
LEN
Z VIL
RT NE
MA
LLE
CA
CA
LL
E
JA

Casa de Casa de Aldemn Ortiz

VI
ER

la Cultura Besides being a fine example

(p189)
of 19th-century architecture,
this building has an interesting
art gallery with works by
CA

local artists, as well as

LL
E

handicrafts (p184).
SI
M
N

. Palacio Cantero
BO

This Neo-Classical gem was

L V

built in the early 19th century

AR

and is now the home of the

Museo Histrico Municipal,
which recounts the history of
0 metres 100
the region. The tower has a
commanding view of the
0 yards 100
historic centre (p189).
184 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Trinidad: Exploring Plaza Mayor

The museums and buildings facing the main
square in Trinidad lend historic weight and
depth to the suspended-in-time feel of this
city. It is worth stopping in the town centre for
at least half a day to see the museums, relax
on the benches in the shade of the palm
Decorative trees, enjoy a cocktail at the bar by the
element in cathedral steps, or stroll around the stalls
Plaza Mayor
in the crafts market.

R Iglesia Parroquial Casilda, 6 km (4 miles) from

de la Santsima Trinidad the city of Trinidad. While
Plaza Mayor. preparing to make a fourth
# variable. attempt to reach Mexico, the
Completed in 1892, this ships captain decided to leave A 19th-century shower in the
austere church with a Neo- behind part of the cargo, Museo de Arquitectura Colonial
Classical faade stands at which included the huge chest
the top of the sloping containing the statue of Christ. elements seen in Trinidad and
Plaza Mayor. The locals regarded the illustrates the building
The four-aisle interior arrival of the sacred techniques used during
has a fine Neo-Gothic altar image as a sign from the Colonial period.
dedicated to the Virgin of Heaven, and from that There is a collection of
Mercy, with a painting by the time on the Seor de la various locks, latches,
Cuban painter Antonio Herr Vera Cruz became an doors, hinges, windows
on the rear wall. But the real object of fervent worship. and grilles, as well as
attraction of this church is an The Maundy Thursday parts of walls and tiles.
18th-century wooden statue procession, which was In one of the bathrooms
made in Spain, the Seor de suspended in 1959 facing the inner
la Vera Cruz (Lord of the and revived again in Bronze knocker, courtyard is a fine
True Cross), which is 1997, is dedicated to Museo de example of a 19th-
associated with a curious this statue. Arquitectura Colonial century shower,
story. The sculpture, made for with a complicated
one of the churches in Vera E Museo de network of pipes supplying
Cruz, Mexico, left the port of Arquitectura Colonial hot and cold water.
Barcelona in 1731, but three Calle Ripalda 83, e/ Hernndez Echerri
times in succession the ship y Martnez Villena, Plaza Mayor. P Casa de Rafael Ortiz
was driven by strong winds Tel (41) 993 208. # 9am5pm (Galera de Arte)
to the port of SatThu. Fri. & 8 6 (with Calle Rubn Martnez Villena y
charge). Bolvar, Plaza Mayor. Tel (41) 994
The front of the 18th-century 432. # 8am5pm daily.
mansion of the Snchez This beautiful mansion with
Iznaga family, now the home a long wooden balcony,
of the Museum of Colonial reminiscent of the Colonial
Architecture, features buildings in Habana Vieja,
a lovely portico with is evocative of the citys
slim columns, a golden age. It was built in
wrought-iron 1808 for Ortiz de Ziga, a
balustrade and former slave trader who
wooden beams. later became the mayor of
Originally, the Trinidad. The house currently
building consisted of serves as an art gallery.
two separate houses, The first floor has paintings
both of which on display (and for sale) by
belonged to sugar contemporary Cuban artists,
magnate Saturnino including Antonio Herr,
Snchez Iznaga. Juan Oliva, Benito Ortiz,
The houses were Antonio Zerquera and David
joined during the Gutirrez. Of interest in the
19th century. gallery itself are frescoes,
The museum, the great staircase, and, in
the only one of the upper hall, a ceiling
its kind in Cuba, decorated with figures. From
The statue of Seor de la Vera Cruz (1731), in covers the the balcony there is a fine
one of the chapels inside Santsima Trinidad different architectural view of the entire square.
 T R I N I D A D 185

Museo de Arqueologa Guamuhaya, seen from the Casa Ortiz; behind is Palacio Brunet

E Museo de Arqueologa The building that is now the founder. They were inherited
Guamuhaya home of the Archaeological by Borrells daughter, the wife
Calle Simn Bolvar 457, e/ Fernando Museum was constructed in of Count Nicols de la Cruz
Hernndez Echerri y Rubn Martnez the 18th century and was y Brunet (hence the name
Villena, Plaza Mayor. Tel (41) 993 purchased in the 1800s by Palacio Brunet), in 1830.
420. # call ahead to check opening the wealthy Don Antonio The museums 14 rooms all
times. Padrn, who added a portico face the courtyard gallery
with brick columns and with its elegant balustrade.
Ionic capitals. The spacious living room has
The Guamuhaya (the native a Carrara marble floor, a
Indian name for the mountain- coffered ceiling, Neo-Classical
ous Escambray area) collection decoration, furniture made of
includes Pre-Columbian precious wood, Svres vases
archaeological finds as well as and Bohemian crystalware.
objects associated with the There are also English-made
Spanish conquest and slavery spittoons, which reveal that
in Cuba, and stuffed animals, the 19th-century aristocratic
including the manjuari, an landowners were partial to
ancient species of fish that still smoking cigars. In the dining
lives in the Zapata swamp. room the fan windows are a
Alexander von Humboldt
In the courtyard is a bronze particularly attractive feature.
bust commemorating the Other rooms of interest are
HUMBOLDT IN CUBA German geographer and the countesss bedroom, with
The German naturalist naturalist Alexander von a bronze baldachin over the
Alexander von Humboldt Humboldt, who stayed here as bed, and the kitchen, which is
(17691859), the father of Padrns guest in 1801, during still decorated with its original
modern geography, made his travels in the New World. painted earthenware tiles.
two trips to Cuba (18001,
1804), which are recorded E Palacio Brunet
in a museum at Calle (Museo Romntico)
Oficios 252 in Havana. Calle Hernndez Echerri 52,
The book that followed, esq. Simn Bolvar, Plaza Mayor.
Political Essay on the Tel (419) 4363. # 9am5pm
Island of Cuba, in which TueSun. & 8 6 (with charge).
he described Cuba as the Built in 1812 as the residence
land of sugar and slaves, of the wealthy Borrell family,
illustrated its geography, Palacio Brunet now contains
rivers, population, the Museo Romntico. The
economy, government decoration of the mansion
and slave system. Because blends in well with the
of its abolitionist ideas the objects on display, most of
book was soon banned. which once belonged to One of the elegant frescoes
Mariano Borrell, the family decorating Palacio Brunet
188 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

The Houses of Trinidad

The historic centre of Trinidad In the 19th century, the houses
has an extraordinarily dense formed a square around an open
concentration of old Colonial central courtyard. In general,
houses, many still inhabited by the houses of Trinidad, unlike
the descendants of old local those in Havana, have no
families. The oldest, single-storey vestibule or portico. The
buildings have two corridors and entrance consists of a large
a porch parallel to the street, living room that gives way to a
with a courtyard at the back. In A mampara, an dining room, either through an
the late 1700s another corridor interior door with archway or a mampara, an
was introduced to the layout. two leaves inner, double door.
Barrotes,small Red tile
turned wooden Wooden beams support the
roof
columns, characterize two- or four-pitch sloping roof,
the 18th-century which is covered with
windows. Wooden terracotta tiles. Inside, mudjar-
supports style coffered ceilings can
often be found.

TRINIDAD FAADES
The faade of the typical
Trinidad house has a large
central door, with a smaller
door (or doors) cut in it for
easy access. The windows,
set slightly above ground
level, are almost the height
of the door. They have
strong wooden shutters
instead of glass. This house
is in Plaza Mayor, next to
the Casa Ortiz.

The arched
Wrought-iron windows so
ornamental characteristic of
motifs Trinidad have
radiating wooden
slats instead of
mediopunto windows.
These allow the air to
Wooden enter but keep out
shutters the sunlight.

The wooden front door

is sometimes framed by
plaster motifs: flattened
pilasters, moulding, half-
The 19th-century iron columns either with
grilles replaced the simple Tuscan capitals
wooden barrotes or with upturned bowls
and typically have at the top.
simple decoration
at the top and bottom.

The view from the San Francisco bell tower: in the foreground, Plaza Mayor, beyond, the coast
 T R I N I D A D 189

Trinidad: Around Plaza Mayor

Walking along the streets leading from Plaza Mayor is a
fascinating experience even if you have no particular
destination. A slow stroll allows time to observe the detail
of a window, a small balcony, the irregular cobblestones,
or the cannons used as bollards. The historic centre is
more or less free of traffic. In the evening the houses
glow in the warm hues of sunset, and music fills the
streets: the Casa de la Trova (see p183) and Casa de la
Msica (p182) put on daily concerts by local bands.

Cantero, renaming
the mansion and The river cobblestones (chinas
transforming it into pelonas) used in Trinidads streets
a sumptuous Neo-
Classical residence. E Iglesia y Convento
The building is now de San Francisco
the Museo Histrico Calle Hernndez Echerri, esq. Guinart.
Municipal. Museo de la Lucha contra
From the grand Bandidos Tel (41) 994 121.
entrance hall, with # 9am5pm TueSun. & 8 6
frescoed arches, the This elegant church was built
route takes in the in 1730 by Franciscan monks,
dining room, the but it was taken from them in
kitchen, the court- 1848 in order for it to be used
yard and an area for as a parish church. In 1895
domestic servants. the authorities transformed
The history of the monastery into a garrison
Trinidad can be for the Spanish army. Then
traced through in 1930, because of the
exhibits, maps, and lamentable state of the place,
monuments related the monastery and part of the
to different themes: church were demolished.
The frescoed entrance hall in Palacio Cantero the Cantero family, Only the bell tower was sal-
and its Italian marble floor piracy, the planta- vaged, along with adjacent
tions in the Valle de buildings, which were used
E Casa de la Cultura los Ingenios, the slave trade as a school until 1984, when
Trinitaria and the wars of independ- the complex became the
Calle Zerquera 406. Tel (419) 4308. ence. There is a viewing home of the Museo de la
During the day, the spacious, platform atop the tower. Lucha contra Bandidos.
well-lit vestibule is used as The museum illustrates with
permanent exhibition space Plazuela del Jige documents, photographs and
by local artists (some of whom This peaceful little square, exhibits the struggle against the
also have their studios here), where a spreading acacia tree bandits, the counter-revolu-
who sell their paintings. In the offers shady respite from the tionaries who fled to the Sierra
evening, performances of var- sun, is rich in history (see del Escambray after 1959.
ious kinds of entertainment p182). El Jige restaurant is Fragments of a U2 plane, a
are held in the rear courtyard: housed in a lovely porticoed boat, a militia truck and
theatre, dance, concerts and building decorated with weapons are displayed in the
shows for children. panels of painted tiles. former monasterys cloister.

E Palacio Cantero
(Museo Histrico Municipal)
Calle Bolvar 423. Tel (41) 994 460.
# 9am5pm SatThu. Fri. &
6 (with charge).
This mansion, which belonged
originally to Don Borrell y
Padrn one of the major
figures in local sugar produc-
tion was purchased in 1841
by Mara de Monserrate
Fernndez, the widow of a
sugar magnate. A year later
she married the landowner The small Plazuela del Jige, with its handful of handicrafts stalls
190 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Beyond Trinidads Historic Centre

Away from the centre there are more interesting areas
to explore. One spot to head for is Parque Cspedes,
where locals, young and old, gather to listen and dance to
live music in the evenings. Or, walking eastwards, lively
Plaza Santa Ana draws people at all times of day. From
the hill north of Plaza Mayor there are marvellous views
over the valley, especially beautiful at sunset.
done by a violent
cyclone. Despite
deterioration, the The Cabildo de San Antonio, with
church is still intact. votive offerings and sacred drums
Even though it is
closed, it is worth a 1859 for the worship of Afro-
visit because the Cuban divinities. In the 1800s
location is so beautiful. Cuba witnessed the rise of
many cabildos, cultural
Plaza Santa Ana centres differentiated by
A short walk from Plaza ethnic group which aimed
Mayor, in the eastern to preserve the spiritual and
part of the city, this musical heritage of the slaves.
square is dominated by The Cabildo in Trinidad, dedi-
the 18th-century Iglesia cated to Oggn a warrior god
de Santa Ana. It was whose Catholic equivalent is
partly rebuilt in 1800, St Anthony of Padua is for
and the bell tower was the followers of the Palo
added 12 years later. Monte religion (see p23).
The now decaying
church is flanked by a Environs
royal poinciana tree. on a rise 1 km (half a mile)
The square is a northeast of the centre, near
popular place to gather, Hotel Las Cuevas ( see p266) is
thanks to the cultural the Museo Espeleolgico,
Faade of Nuestra Seora de la centre in the former opened on 20 May 1999.
Candelaria de la Popa hermitage prison. Set around a Located inside a cave of 3,700
lovely courtyard, the sq m (4,440 sq yds), it can be
R Ermita de Nuestra Seora centre includes a restaurant, visited with an expert guide as
de la Candelari caf and art gallery. far as the Saln de las Perlas, a
de la Popa smaller cave where water
This small 18th-century church E Cabildo de los Congos drops fall like pearls.
on a hill north of the centre is Reales de San Antonio According to legend, an Indian
connected to Plaza Mayor by Calle Isidro Armenteros 168. girl called Cacubu took refuge
a narrow, steep street. The In the picturesque working- (and died) here, escaping from
striking three-arch bell tower class quarter of El Calvario, in the lecherous Spanish conquis-
loggia was added in 1812, the northern part of Trinidad, tador Porcallo de Figueroa.
when work was done to the is the Cabildo de los Congos Karstic fossils from caves near
church to repair the damage Reales, a temple founded in Matanzas are also on show.

Iglesia de Santa Ana, on the square of the same name, in eastern Trinidad
 C E N T R A L C U B A E A S T 191

Topes de Collantes 2

The unspoilt landscape of the Sierra del TIPS FOR HIKERS

Escambray (see p173), where pine and eucalyptus
grow alongside exuberant trees, ferns and tropical Departure points: Topes
de Collantes. n Hotel Los
plants, offers extraordinarily beautiful scenery that
Helechos, (42) 540 330, 540 117.
can best be seen by hiking from Topes de Length: Itinerary A: 3.5 km (2
Collantes, a steep 30-minute drive north of miles); Itinerary B: 4.5 km
Trinidad. Here, two itineraries are suggested, (3 miles).
indicated by a letter and colour. Itinerary A Stopping-off point:
consists of a walk of average difficulty through the Hacienda Codina
tropical forest as far as the Caburn falls. Itinerary
B is longer but easier and less tiring, and includes
a detour to the Batata cave. KEY
Major road

La Batata 5 Path
This cave is traversed by Itinerary A
an underground river,
with natural pools at a Itinerary B
temperature which never Parking
rises above 20 C (68 F).
Hospital

0 kilometres 1
Santa Clara
Hacienda Codina 4 Manicaragua 0 miles 1
The Codina farm has
orchid and bamboo
gardens, a pool with
mud baths, and fine
views.The route
continuesfor 1 km
(half amile) among
medicinal plants.

Topes de Collantes 1
At 800 m (2,625 ft) above
sea level and with good clean air,
this spot was chosen as the location
for a sanitarium for lung diseases,
now used as an anti-stress centre.
Trinidad

Salto del
Caburn 3
After a two-hour
walk you will
come to a cliff
with a steep,
plunging water-
fall. Water gushes
over rocks and
collects further The Forest 2
down, forming a The path leading to Salto del Caburn
pool where it is crosses untouched tropical forest with
possible to bathe. curious rock formations.
192 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

As with Varadero (see

pp1623), bicycles can be
hired and make a pleasant
way of getting around the
Ancn peninsula.
Opposite the peninsula,
across the bay, is the old port
of Casilda, 6 km (4 miles)
from Trinidad, where in 1519
Hernn Corts recruited the
troops that went on to
conquer Mexico.
Once a prosperous port
thanks to the sugar trade,
Casilda has long since
declined, and is now above
Secluded La Boca beach, shaded by royal poinciana trees all a place that people pass
through on their way to the
Pennsula Ancn 3 southern part of the peninsula, local beaches.
there are comfortable hotels, a
Road Map C3. splendid beach and a diving
school. From the beach by Valle de los
About 10 km (6 miles) Hotel Ancn, assorted boat Ingenios 4
south of Trinidad is one excursions are available to
of the first coastal areas in take divers to snorkelling sites Road Map C3. c @
Cuba to be developed for out on the coral reef. Excursions from Trinidad n at
tourism, the peninsula of For some fascinating dive railway station, (41) 993 348;
Ancn, where foreign visitors sites, divers should take an Cubatur, Calle Simn Bolvar 352,
have been coming since 1980. excursion to Cayo Blanco, (41) 996 368.
The fine white sand and 8 km (5 miles) off the coast.
turquoise water (not as clear At the western tip of this Leaving Trinidad and
here as along the north coast, small coral island with heading northeast, along
though) make this promontory white sand beaches, is the road to Sancti Spritus,
a miniature Varadero, with the largest black coral one can appreciate the
hotels, bars, restaurants and reef in Cuba, where beauty of the fertile
water sports clubs. However, divers can choose plain, with the green
unlike Varadero, this area is from a number of hills of the Sierra del
visited by visitors and locals different dive sites. Escambray forming
alike. Cubans head mainly for On the rocky coasts The bell on the a backdrop. Only
La Boca, 6 km (4 miles) from near Mara Aguilar, Iznaga bell tower 12 km (7 miles)
Trinidad, near the neck of the on the other hand, separate Trinidad
peninsula, especially on warm there are pools where from the Valle de los Ingenios,
Sundays and in summer. swimmers only need a mask whose name derives from the
At Playa Ancn, 5 km to easily spot a great variety sugar mills (ingenios, see
(3 miles) of white sand in the of tropical fish. pp423) built here in the

Valle de los Ingenios, from the Mirador de la Loma: green swathes of sugar cane at the foot of the Sierra

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2636 and p282
 C E N T R A L C U B A E A S T 193

survives and has been con- The top of the tower, which is
verted into a bar and reached via a steep wooden
restaurant. Also still standing stairway, today offers lovely,
are the barracones (slaves wide-ranging views of the
huts), and a monumental surrounding countryside. At
seven-level tower 45 m (147 the foot of the tower is the
ft) high. Each level is different bell that once tolled the work
from the next in shape and hours on the plantation.
decoration: the first three are There are other estate
square, the top four are mansions to be seen in this
octagonal. The symbolic mean- area, including one at
ing of this tower is apparent. Guachinango, which was
It was built in 1830 as an built in the late 18th century
assertion of authority over the in a dominating position
valley by Alejo Iznaga, a rival over the Ro Ay.
to his brother Pedro, who was The village of San Pedro is
also a major landowner and an example of the urban
sugar producer. The tower settlements that developed in
also functioned as a lookout association with the sugar
for supervising the slaves. plantations and works.

SUGAR PRODUCTION IN CUBA

For centuries, sugar cane (Saccharum officinarum), which
The Iznaga estate tower, with a was introduced to the island in 1512 by Spanish settlers, has
commanding view of the valley been the mainstay of the Cuban economy. Sugar extraction
takes place in various phases: after being washed, the cane
early 19th century. Today, stalks are pressed by special mills and the juice (guarapo) is
fields of sugar cane form a extracted from the fibrous mass (bagassa), which is used as
blanket of green, interrupted fuel and as livestock fodder. The juice is treated chemically,
only by towering royal palms. filtered and then evaporated so as to obtain a concentration
The valley is rich in history of dark syrup that is then heated. This produces crystals of
with ruins providing evidence sucrose. The syrupy mass then goes into a centrifuge.
of the time when the sugar Other by-products are obtained from sugar cane, including
industry was at its peak. These molasses, a residue of the syrup, which still contains 50 per
buildings also help visitors cent sugar and is used as the basic ingredient in the
to understand the social production of rum (see p75).
structure that was the order of
the sugar plantations. The Ripe cane is from 25 m (616 ft)
whole zone, which has a tall with a diameter of 26 cm
surface area of 270 sq km (104 (13 in). Once cut, the plant
sq miles), includes more than shoots again and becomes ripe
70 old ingenios. UNESCO has again in a year. Newly planted
declared the valley a World cane, grown from cuttings
Heritage Site. 3040 cm (1216 in) long,
A good way to visit the area ripens in 1118 months.
is to take the steam train
which departs from Trinidad
and covers the entire valley.
The zafra (harvest) takes
One of the places accessible
only to those with a car is the place between December and
Mirador de La Loma del
June. Before harvest begins,
Puerto (6 km, 4 miles east of
the cane field is burned to
Trinidad, on the road to Sancti remove the outer leaves, which
Spritus). This observation obstruct harvesting. In the
point (mirador), 192 m (630 plains cutting is done with
ft) above sea level, offers a machines, while in the hills
magnificent view of the whole the machete is still used.
valley. There is also an
outdoor caf where you can Transport has to be rapid to
sample the drink guara- minimize the deterioration of
po, sugar cane juice. the sucrose in the heat. To this
However, the most end, in the late 1800s a special
impressive destination railway network was built and
is the Manaca Iznaga steam trains travelled between
Estate, where about 350 the cane fields and the sugar
slaves lived in the 1840s. works. Some are still running.
The landowners house
194 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Sancti Spritus 5 P Yayabo Bridge

Its medieval appearance and
The city of Sancti Spritus, deep in the heart of large terracotta arches make
fertile agricultural countryside, was founded this bridge, built in 1825,
by Diego Velzquez on the banks of the unique in Cuba, and for this
Tuinuc river in 1514. It was moved to its reason it has been declared
present site, near the Yayabo river, eight a national monument.
According to one bizarre leg-
years later. In 1586 British pirates set fire to the end, in order to make
town along with all the documents relating to the bridge more robust, the
its foundation. The political, economic and workmen mixed cement
Statue of Christ military centre of the area, Sancti Spritus with goats milk.
beside the was embellished with elegant mansions The Yayabo bridge is an
cathedral throughout the 17th and 18th centuries. important part of the citys
Today, its small, attractive Colonial centre receives few street network: it is the only
visitors, despite its national monument status. route into town for those
coming from Trinidad.

Exploring Sancti Spritus

The central part of the city can
be explored on foot in a few
hours. It is pleasant to simply
stroll along the recently
restored streets (many of
which are for pedestrians
only), where brightly coloured
Colonial houses with wrought-
iron balconies are
characteristic. The most
famous approach to the town
is the southern one, across
the lovely old bridge over the
Yayabo river. The narrow,
quiet streets leading up from
the bridge to the city centre The Yayabo Bridge, leading to the Colonial centre
are the oldest in Sancti
Spritus. They are paved with Principal, a bright blue E Museo de Arte Colonial
irregular cobblestones and porticoed construction built in Calle Plcido 74. Tel (41) 325 455. #
lined with one-storey houses 1876 and restored in 1980; a 9:30am5pm TueSat, 8amnoon Sun.
with shingle roofs. large 19th-century mansion Mon. & 8 6 (with charge).
Calle Mximo Gmez, that is now the Pensamiento This fine 18th-century
which leads to the main bar; the Casa de la Trova; a building once belonged to the
square, Parque Serafn typical bar-restaurant, Mesn Iznaga family (see p193). It is
Snchez, is lined with 18th- de la Plaza; and the Placita, a now a museum with crystal,
and 19th-century monuments, small square with a statue of porcelain, furniture, paintings
museums and mansions. Dr Rudesindo Antonio Garca (many of them Spanish), and
These include the Teatro Rijo, an illustrious citizen. a splendid courtyard.

Recently restored Colonial homes, with their original colours, in one of the streets near the river

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2636 and p282
 C E N T R A L C U B A E A S T 195

(100-ft) bell tower, with three VISITORS CHECKLIST

levels, was added in the 18th
century, and the octagon-al Sancti Spritus. Road Map C3.
Cristo de la Humildad y la * 100,000. @ Carretera
Paciencia chapel, built next to Central, km 2. Avenda
the church in the 19th century, Jess Menndez. n Cubatur,
has a remarkable half-dome. Calle Mximo Gmez 7,
(41) 328 518.
Parque Serafn Snchez
The heart of the city consists
of a tranquil square with trees Environs
and a charming glorieta Around 8 km (5 miles) east of
(gazebo), surrounded by Neo- Sancti Spritus, in the direction
Classical buildings. A national of Ciego de vila, nature lovers
monument, the Parque is and fans of fishing can enjoy
dedicated to Serafn Snchez, Presa Zaza, an artificial lake
a local hero in the wars of well stocked with trout and
independence, whose house black bass. Tours of the lake
The interior of the Parroquial is open to the public in the depart from the Zaza hotel,
Mayor during mass nearby Calle de Cspedes. In while the shores are ideal spots
the evenings, the plaza is a for birdwatching. Presa Zaza is
R Parroquial Mayor popular gathering place. Cubas largest man-made lake
del Espritu Santo The most notable buildings and is the venue for a major
Calle Agramonte Oeste 58. here are the Centro de international fishing com-
Tel (41) 324 855. # 911am Patrimonio, with broad petition every September.
TueSat, 811am Sun. 5 8pm Tue stained-glass win-
& Thu, 5pm Wed & Fri, 10am Sun. dows and Seville
Using money donated by Don mosaics, the large
Ignacio de Valdivia, the local Biblioteca (library),
mayor, the present church was and the Hotel Perla
built of stone in 1680, over the de Cuba, one of
original 16th-century wooden the most exclusive
church that had been destroyed hotels in Cuba in
by pirates. It is one of Cubas the early 1900s.
oldest churches. The simple The Hotel Plaza,
and solid building is reminis- whose bar is
cent of the parish churches of popular with the
Andalusia, and still has its locals, forms part
original, exquisitely worked of a Colonial Chatting in the Parque Serafn Snchez in the
wooden ceilings. The 30-m building. evening, a popular pastime

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196 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

THE COCKEREL OF MORON

Be careful not to end up like the cockerel of Morn, which
lost its feathers as well as its crest. This Spanish saying
dates back to the 1500s, when the governor of the
Andalusian village of Morn de la Frontera, who lorded it
over the local farmers and was known as cockerel (gallo)
for his arrogance and presumptuousness, was punished with
a good thrashing and thrown out of town by the angry
citizens. The event became well known and to
commemorate it, a statue of a plucked rooster was set up in
the main avenue. When a community of Andalusians
emigrated to Cuba in
the 18th century and
founded a city they
called Morn, to
maintain their traditions
Parque Mart in Ciego de vila, they put a statue of the
with a monument to Jos Mart rooster at the entrance
to the town. It was
Ciego de vila 6 taken down in 1959,
and replaced in 1981 by
Road Map D3. * 100,000. a new bronze sculpture
k @ n Hotel Ciego de vila, placed next to a tower.
Carretera a Ceballos, (33) 228 013. At 6am and 6pm daily,
a recording of a cock The bronze statue (1981) of the
When Ciego de Avila was crowing is played here. legendary cockerel of Morn
founded in 1538 by the
conquistador Jcome de vila,
it was just a large farm in the The multi-ethnic character of Morn 7
middle of a wood, a ciego. the city means that visitors
It only became a bona fide can enjoy both the rural Ciego de vila. Road Map D3.
city in 1840. Today, it is a festivals of Spanish origin * 45,000. c n Cubanacn,
rural town with two-storey (parrandas), similar to Calle Coln 49, (33) 502 262/ 3. _
houses fronted with Neo- those in Remedios (see Cockerel of Morn: end of June.
Classical columns, p177), and merengue
and streets filled with and congo dance Morn lies on the road that
one-horse carriages. shows, especially in runs north from Ciego de
The few visitors the quarter where vila (a town with a long-
who come here are Jamaican and Haitian standing rivalry with Morn).
mostly on their way immigrants live. The road is known for its
to the cayos in the Ciego de vila occupation in 1896 by
Jardines del Rey also has a cycling nationalist rebels (mambises)
archipelago. One of La school which is after they had managed to
Anyone who does Trochas redoubts attended by children breach the Spanish defence.
stop off should visit from all over the Morn was founded as a
the Teatro Principal (1927) island. At Epiphany the town villa in 1869 and retains a
and the Museo Histrico is the starting point for the small, well-preserved Colonial
Provincial. This last has four month-long Vuelta Internac- centre. The Museo Municipal
rooms of documents and ional por la Paz, a cycle race has more than 600 archaeo-
photographs concerning the much like the Tour de France. logical finds, brought to light
history of the province, in
particular the story of La
Trocha. This line of defence
was constructed in the 19th
century. It was devised by the
Spanish to block the advance
of the Cuban nationalists
(mambises) by cutting the
island in half, from Morn,
north of Ciego de vila, to
Jcaro, on the Caribbean
coast. Some surviving La
Trocha towers, built about
1 km (0.6 mile) from one
another, lie a short distance
outside town and are open
to the public. A street in Morn with pastel-coloured houses and arcades
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2636 and p282
 C E N T R A L C U B A E A S T 197

Isla Turiguan, the unusual Dutch village near Morn

in the 1940s a short distance for platform fishing for large A causeway 17 km (10 miles)
from town, including a famous tropical fish. There are also long, built in 1988 as a link
statuette, the Idolillo de Barro. hunting reserves: the Coto de between the archipelago and
Caza de Morn and Coto de mainland Cuba, makes it easy
E Museo Municipal Caza Aguachales de Fala. for visitors to get to the lovely
Calle Mart 374 e/ Antua y beaches, the coral reef, and
Cervantes. Tel (33) 504 501. the holiday villages which are
# 8am4pm SunTue, 8am9pm
WedSat. 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul,
Jardines del Rey 8 currently concentrated on
25 Dec. & 8 ^
Cayo Coco and Cayo
Ciego de vila, Camagey. Guillermo (see pp1989).
Road Map D3. However, Cuban nationals
Environs themselves have limited
North of Morn are two fresh- In the Atlantic Ocean, north access to the archipelago.
water lagoons: the Laguna of the province of Ciego de Cayo Paredn Grande,
Redonda, which owes it name vila, the Sabana and 6 km (4 miles) long, is
to its almost circular form and Camagey archi the third largest
is known for its great abun- pelagoes, known island in the
dance of trout, and the Laguna collectively as Jardines. Although
de Leche. This latter is called Jardines del Rey, there are no hotels,
the Lagoon of Milk because include about 400 it is worth visiting
of its colour, caused by the small islands, The lighthouse at for the lovely
limestone deposits in the water. almost all of which Cayo Paredn Grande beaches, and the
It is the largest stretch of are uninhabited. coral has some fine
brackish water in Cuba, with They were discovered in dive sites, too. There are good
a surface area of 67 sq km 1522 by the conquistador views of the distinctive black
(26 sq miles). It abounds in Diego Velzquez, who was so and yellow Diego Velzquez
carp and pike and is a refuge struck by them that he dedi- Lighthouse, built by Chinese
for herons and flamingos. cated them to the king (rey), immigrants in 1859.
Immediately north of the Carlos V. They later became a Although part of the province
Laguna de Leche is the Isla hiding place for pirates and, of Camagey, Cayo Romano
Turiguan, a peninsula with a after the official abolition of belongs naturally to this archi-
village of Dutch-style houses slavery, a clandestine landing pelago. Its marshy coastline is
surrounded by grazing land point for slaves. the habitat of manatees.
for cattle. The
animals are also
Dutch, having been
imported by Celia
Snchez (see p51).
Florencia, about
20 km (12 miles)
west of Morn, is
the starting point for
hikes in the small
Sierra de Jatibonico.
This range can be
explored on horse-
back, along the
route followed by
Camilo Cienfuegoss
column in 1958
(see p48).
The Canal Viejo
de Bahamas is used The pristine white sandy beach of Cayo Paredn Grande, Jardines del Rey
198 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Cayo Coco 9

With 22 km (14 miles) of white sandy

beaches and 370 sq km (143 sq miles) of
partly marshy land abounding in
mangroves and coconut palms, Cayo
Coco is an important natural reserve for
A boat heading marine birds. Flamingos can be spotted
out to a
coral reef
easily in the lagoon areas near the coast.
The name of the island derives from
another rare species of bird that lives here: the white
ibis, known to Cubans as the coco. The island is
peaceful, and tourist amenities have been built and
organized with environmental concerns in mind. The
beaches are lovely, with fine sand washed by clear The Coccothrinax litoralis palm
turquoise water. The warm, shallow water makes Cayo tree, common on Cayo Coco
Coco particularly suitable for families with children, but
the island is also popular among diving and water The Duna de la Loma del
sports enthusiasts, who can Puerto is a natural
take advantage of the modern viewing point which can
sports facilities here. CAYO be reached via a path
that goes through
GUILLERMO tropical vegetation.

Archipelago de Sabana

CAYO
Cayo Guillermo
Linked to Cayo Coco, this small island (13 sq
km, 5 sq miles) is covered with mangroves and
palms as well as mahogany, juniper and mastic
trees. At Playa Pilar beach the dunes rise as
high as 16 m (52 ft). Playa Prohibida, surrounded
by sand dunes reaching
heights of 14 m
KEY (46 ft), is a particularly
Major road peaceful, secluded beach.
Minor road

Recommended beach
Baha de Perros
Domestic airport

The Pedraplen
A major work of civil
engineering, this
causeway links the
La Loma
islands with the
mainland. It has caused
some concern San Rafael
to ecologists, since it
blocks the tide and
may disturb the
ecosystem of the bay.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2636 and p282
 C E N T R A L C U B A - E A S T 199

VISITORS CHECKLIST
Ciego de vila. Road Map D3.
~ Carretera Cayo Guillermo, (33)
309 165. n Cubanacn, Hotel
Tryp Club Cayo Coco, (33) 301 300;
Cubatur Cayo Coco, (33) 301 436;
Havanatur, Hotel Tryp Cayo Coco,
(33) 301 300. 4 Marina Marln,
Cayo Coco, (33) 301 323; Marina
Marlin, Cayo Guillermo (33) 301 737.

Centro de Investigaciones
de Ecosistemas Costeras
. Playa Flamencos This centre for the
This beach, almost 3 km (2 miles) long, is regarded as environment
one of the best on the island because of its lovely clear studies the
sea and fine sand. The shallow water is only knee-deep effects of
even 200 m (650 ft) from the shore. tourism
on local
Gira, a village founded in ecosystems.
the early 1900s, still has its It is open to
traditional houses. It is a the public, and
starting point for horse illustrates the bird
- Camagey riding excursions. species on the island,
including the roseate
spoonbill seen here.

0 km 5.5

0 miles 5.5

Villa de los Bautista
Trabajadores
COCO
Cayo Paredn
Grande (see p197)

CAYO
ROMANO

. Parador La Silla
This is an ideal spot for viewing
a spectacular array of pink STAR SIGHTS
flamingos, which flock here . Playa Flamencos
Manat in great numbers during the
wet season, from April to . Parador La Silla
November, to breed.
200 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Camagey 0

This city, declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2008,

lies in the middle of a vast area of pastureland. It is nick-
named the Legendary for its traditions of heroism and
patriotism as well as for its Neo-Classical architecture.
There is a large, rich Colonial-style historic centre and the
city has an active cultural life. Founded in the bay of
Nuevitas on the northern coast as Nuestra Seora de Santa
Mara del Puerto Prncipe, the city was moved to the
interior to escape from revolts by the Indians, who
staunchly resisted Spanish domination in the 1500s, and
from pirate attacks. The irregular, intricate street network
An example of 19th-century Neo-
that distinguishes Camagey from other Cuban cities
Classical architecture in Camagey
resulted from the need to protect itself from raids.

1777 a bell tower was added,

but it collapsed only a year
later. Since that time, the
church has been
through several phases
of reconstruction,
taking on its present
appearance in 1864.
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2636 and p282
 C E N T R A L C U B A - E A S T 201

THE CENTRE VISITORS CHECKLIST

OF CAMAGEY
Camagey. Road map D3.
Casa de la Trova q
* 300,000. k Ignacio
Casa Natal de Ignacio
Agramonte, (32) 261 010.
Agramonte 3
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744. @ Carretera Central km 3,
Catedral de Nuestra Seora (32) 270 394. n Islazul, Calle
de la Candelaria 2 Ignacio Agramonte 448, (32) 292
Cinco Esquinas 7 550. _ Jornadas de la Cultura
Iglesia de la Merced 4 Camageyana (first half of Feb);
Iglesia del Carmen 6 Carnival (26 Jul).
Iglesia de la Soledad e
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Parque Casino Campestre 0 where concerts are performed R Iglesia de la Merced
Parque Ignacio Agramonte 1 Plaza de los Trabajadores 4.
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the richest, loveliest, most First opened in 1850 and
virtuous women in the city. rebuilt in 1926 after a
A short walk away is another devastating fire, the local
famous home. The Casa Natal theatre is famous as the
de Nicols Guilln (see p28), home of the Camagey
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202 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Exploring Camagey
The vast historic centre of Camagey,
a complex 16th-century labyrinth of
winding alleyways, dead ends, forks and
squares, is not easy to navigate. The
centre consists mainly of two-storey
houses without arcades, pierced by large
windows protected by wooden grilles.
Each house has an inner courtyard.
There are numerous old churches, most
of them well attended, whose bell towers
jut above the red tile roofs of the Colonial
houses. As with Trinidad, the well-
preserved architecture is the result of
the towns geographic isolation: the
railway line only arrived in 1903, and The Cinco Esquinas (Five Corners), one of the towns
the Carretera Central road in 1931. more complicated junctions

Other City Centre Sights (1814), the oldest cemetery in Avellaneda. Here, at No. 22,
Many interesting sights are Cuba. Back near Parque is the birthplace of Gertrudis
just a short walk away from Agramonte, there is a complex Gmez de Avellaneda, the
Parque Ignacio Agramonte. interchange, the Cinco 19th-century author of anti-
Calle Mart runs west from Esquinas (five corners), near slavery novels.
the square up to Plazuela the top of Calle Ral Lamar, Further south stands the
de la Bedoya, a which is a good example Iglesia de Nuestra Seora
delightful Colonial of the intricate layout de la Soledad, built in 1776. It
square in need of of the city centre. was here that local patriot
restoration. An old Another route to Ignacio Agramonte was
Ursuline convent explore runs along baptized and also got married.
stands here, as well or near Calle The faade features pilasters
as a church, the Repblica, a narrow, and moulding typical of early
Iglesia del Carmen. straight street that Cuban Baroque architecture,
Although not crosses the entire but the real attractions here
completed until Author Gertrudis city from north to are the decoratively painted
1825, it has a Gmez de Avellaneda south. At the arches and pillars and the
distinctly Baroque northern end, wooden alfarje ceiling (see
character. beyond the railway line, is the p227) inside.
Calle Cristo leads to Museo Provincial Ignacio By going south to the far
Plazuela del Cristo, which is Agramonte (see p203). end of this street you will
dominated by the Iglesia del Further south, a right turn at reach Calle Mart, which will
Santo Cristo del Buen Viaje the Hotel Coln leads take you back to Parque
and the Cementerio General eastwards across to Calle Agramonte.

Plaza San Juan de Dios

This square is commonly
called Plaza del Padre Olallo,
in honour of a priest who is
soon to be canonized
because he dedicated his life
to caring for the sick in the
city hospital.
Today, the totally restored
Plaza San Juan de Dios is a
quiet, picturesque spot, but
also a gem of Colonial
architecture. Around it are
18th-century pastel buildings,
two of which have been
converted into restaurants.
One whole side of the plaza
is occupied by an important
group of buildings that
include a church and an old
hospital, which is now the
Plazuela de la Bedoya, dominated by the Iglesia del Carmen home of the Direccin
 C E N T R A L C U B A E A S T 203

Provincial de Patrimonio and

the Oficina del Historiador de
la Ciudad, a body that takes
care of the provinces cultural
heritage. Construction of the
building began in 1728.
Despite its small size, the
Iglesia de San Juan de Dios
is one of the most interesting
churches in Camagey. It still
has its original floors, ceiling
and wooden choir, and, most
importantly, the high altar
with the Holy Trinity and an
anthropomorphic representa-
tion of the Holy Ghost, the
only one in Cuba. The One of the cloisters in the old San Juan de Dios hospital
church faade is simple and
rigorously symmetrical. E Museo Provincial Espejo de Paciencia, a poem
The old Hospital was used Ignacio Agramonte (1608) regarded as the first
in the 20th century as a mili- Avenida de los Mrtires 2, esq. literary work in Cuba (see p28).
tary infirmary, then a teacher Ignacio Snchez. Tel (32) 282 425.
training school, a refuge for closed for restoration until late Y Parque Casino
flood victims, a centre for 2009. & 8 6 (with charge). Campestre
underprivileged children The only military building The largest natural park in
and, most recently, as the in town was the head- any Cuban city, the Casino
Instituto Tecnolgico de quarters of the Spanish was for a long time used for
la Salud (Technological army cavalry in the agricultural fairs, and became
Institute of Health). 19th century. In 1905 a public park in the 19th
The square plan it became a hotel, century. The Hatibonico river
with two inner and since 1948 it flows through it. Besides the
courtyards (clearly has housed a large many statues of patriots and
of mudjar museum of the illustrious figures from
influence) was history, natural Camagey and Cuba, it has
modelled on history and art of a monument to the Seville
Baroque the city and its pilots Barbern and Collar,
monasteries. The province. The who on 10 June 1933 made
enclosure walls prestigious art a historic transatlantic flight
are thick and collection is from Seville to Camagey in
plain; in contrast The Holy Trinity second only to that 19 hours 11 minutes.
the window grilles high altar in the Museo de
and wooden Bellas Artes in Environs
balustrades in the galleries are Havana, and has The plains north of Camagey
elegant and elaborate. three works by the famous are cattle country. King Rancho,
Cuban artist Fidelio Ponce. a former cattle ranch, has a
R Iglesia y Hospital The museum also has an restaurant and rooms and offers
de San Juan de Dios exceptional collection of horse-riding trips and rodeos.
Plaza San Juan de Dios. # daily.
books, including some manu- King Ranch is most easily
1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 25 Dec.
&86
scripts by the Canaries writer accessed from Santa Lucia,
Silvestre de Balboa, author of 26 miles (16 km) to the north.

Plaza San Juan de Dios, known for its well-preserved Colonial architecture
206 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

sports. There are more than

30 dive sites along the reef,
which can be reached with
the help of the international
diving centres, while Virgen
de Altagracia and Sharks
Point offer dives full of
romance, exploring the
wrecks of pirate and Spanish
vessels. For the brave there is
also the chance to observe a
special type of shark, the
Carcharinus leucas, which is
fed and trained and so can be
viewed at close range.
At the bay of Nuevitas, 6 km
A country road north of Camagey, leading to Sierra de Cubitas (4 miles) west of Santa Luca,
near the tiny seashore village
Sierra de Cubitas q to 1 km (0.6 mile) wide. The of La Boca, is Playa Los
thick vegetation, through Cocos. This lovely unspoilt
Camagey. Map D3. which sunlight penetrates for beach has fine white sand
only a few hours, is home to a and clear water, and is a must
The range of hills that lies variety of native birds for visitors to Santa Luca.
40 km (25 miles) north of (tocororo and cartacuba;
Camagey forms the largest see pp2021) and migratory
local reserve of flora and birds, as well as harmless
fauna, with over 300 plant reptiles and rodents.
species. To date, however,
this area has no tourist
facilities on any scale. Playa Santa Luca w
The main attractions are
caverns such as Hoyo de Camagey. Map D3. n Cubatur,
Bonet, the largest karst Ave. Turstica, Playa Santa Luca,
depression in Cuba, and the (32) 336 291 or (32) 365 303.
Pichardo and Mara Teresa
grottoes, where cave drawings The most famous beach
have been discovered. Expert resort in the province offers A beach at Cayo Sabinal,
speleologists, on the other 21 km (13 miles) of accessible by car or catamaran
hand, can visit the Cueva de fine white sand lapped by
Rolando, a cave 132 m (435 turquoise waves. The large Cayo Sabinal e
ft) long with a subterranean coral reef only 3 km (2 miles)
lake 50 m (165 ft) across, the from the shore is a scuba Camagey. Map D3. 4
bottom of which has not divers paradise (see p293). It
yet been explored. shelters the coast from the Together with Cayo Romano
In the neighbouring Valle del currents of the Canal Viejo de and Cayo Guajaba, this small
Ro Mximo is the Paso de los Bahamas, thus safeguarding island forms part of a
Paredones, a long, deep calm swimming conditions protected area. It is the home
ravine with holes caused by for adults and children alike, of deer and the largest colony
water erosion, some as much as well as creating a good of flamingos in Cuba, as well
as 100 m (328 ft) deep and up area for practising all water as a nesting area for four

The pier at Playa Santa Luca, departure point for boats going out to the coral reef
Playa Los Cocos, near Playa Santa Luca
 C E N T R A L C U B A E A S T 207

species of sea turtle. Cayo frontier town

Sabinal can be reached either between central
via a causeway or by catama- and eastern Cuba
ran from Playa Santa Luca. and an obligatory
In the past Cayo Sabinal transit point for
was home to permanent anyone going to
residents: first the natives, Santiago. The historic
then pirates and Spanish centre has some
coalmen. Today, the key is Colonial buildings
visited mostly for its three but no major
beautiful beaches, Playa monuments of note.
Bonita, Playa Los Pinos and However, the city
Playa Brava.The Coln Light- does have many
house dates from 1894. artists studios.
South of Cayo Sabinal is The Museo The town hall of Las Tunas
the Bay of Nuevitas, where Histrico Provincial,
the city of Camagey was in the town hall, has archaeo- the Spanish to halt the
first founded. The three small logical finds and documents advance of the Mamb, and
islands in the bay, known as relating to the history of the the city of Puerto Padre, the
Los Ballenatos, are popular province. The Memorial a los scene of major battles in the
destinations for boat trips. Mrtires de Barbados com- Ten Years War (186878).
memorates a terrorist act The best beach here is
against Cuba carried out in Playa Covarrubias, near Puerto
Las Tunas r 1976: a bomb exploded on a Padre, on the Atlantic coast.
Cubana aeroplane headed for
Las Tunas. Map E3. Havana, killing 73 passengers
* 100,000. ~ @ and the entire crew.
n Hotel Las Tunas, Ave. 2 de Every year Las Tunas
Jardines
diciembre, (31) 345 014. _ Jornada springs to life on the occasion de la Reina t
Nacional Cucalambeana (end of Jun). of the Jornada Nacional
Cucalambeana, dedicated to Ciego de vila, Camagey. Map D4.
Until 1975, Las Tunas was just Juan Cristbal Npoles 4 Jcaro, Embarcadero Avaln,
one of the cities in the old Fajardo, known as El (33) 398 104 (may be closed due to
Provincia de Oriente. Then Cucalamb, a farmer and hurricane damage, phone to check).
administrative reform made it poet born here in 1829. Local
the capital of an autonomous and other Cuban artists, as This archipelago in the
province. The town was well as foreign scholars, take Caribbean Sea was discovered
founded on the site of two part in this festival of music by Christopher Columbus and
native villages that were and folk traditions. called Jardines de la Reina in
razed to the ground by the honour of the queen (reina),
conquistador Alonso de Environs Isabel of Castile. Currently,
Ojeda in the early 1500s. Near Las Tunas are many sites these islands can be reached
However, the town only linked with the wars of by boat from the pleasant
really began to develop three independence.They include fishing village of Jcaro.
centuries later, progressively the Fuerte de la Loma, now a The great number of
taking on the character of a national monument, built by unspoilt cayos, the secluded
pristine beaches, mangroves
and palm groves with rich
fauna consisting of crocodiles,
iguanas, turtles and tropical
birds, and a 200-km (125-
mile) coral reef make this
archipelago a paradise for
nature lovers.
Near Cayo Anclita, only
about 100 m (328 ft) from
the coast, is a floating hotel
reserved for fishermen,
divers and photographers.
The waters abound with
groupers, snappers, barracudas
and sharks, among many other
fish. Traditional tours usually
take place in daytime, depart-
ing from Cayo Blanco, an hour
from the coast. Navigating the
entire archipelago takes
A scuba diver grasping a barracuda about 3 hours.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2636 and p282
 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N 209

EASTERN CUBA
GRANMA HOLGUIN SANTIAGO DE CUBA GUANTANAMO

C
ubans refer to the eastern part of Cuba as the Oriente, giving it
an exotic, magical appeal. The landscape, stretching out towards
Haiti and other Caribbean islands, is varied, with majestic
mountains, magnificent coastlines and an area of arid desert, unusual
in Cuba. The eastern cities, often rich in history, include Santiago de
Cuba, host to one of Latin Americas most famous carnivals.

From the 17th to the 16th century for organizing

19th centuries, resistance against the
thousands of black Spanish. Then, in
slaves were brought to Cuba from the 19th century,
Africa, men and women who became local nationalists
the ancestors of the multi-ethnic mix led the wars of inde-
visible in Eastern Cuba today, part pendence. The citizens of Bayamo
African, but also part Spanish, part even burned down their town rather
French and Chinese. In this cultural than hand it over to the enemy. In the
melting pot, African and European, 20th century, there were the rebeldes
Catholic and pagan traditions are (many of whom were from Eastern
blended, sometimes inextricably. Cuba, including Fidel Castro himself),
The area is full of apparent who launched the struggle against
contradictions: there is the combative Batistas dictatorship by attacking the
Oriente, rebellious and indomitable; Moncada barracks in Santiago.
and yet there is also the laid-back Yet the people of eastern Cuba
Oriente, an oasis of pleasure, and the also know how to have a good time,
sonorous Oriente, the cradle of great adore music, rhythm and dance of all
musicians. It is true that the people of kinds, and each year put on a
Eastern Cuba have always fought colourful Carnival at Santiago de
with great fervour. One eloquent Cuba which rivals that of Rio de
example is the Indian chief Hatuey, Janeiro, and is one of the most
who was burned at the stake in the celebrated in Latin America.

Cacti growing along the Costa Sur, the only arid zone on the island, east of Guantnamo

The steps on Calle Padre Pico, in the heart of Santiago de Cuba

 210 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Exploring Eastern Cuba

The classic starting point for touring the eastern
provinces is Santiago de Cuba, a city rich in history,
with lovely Colonial architecture and sites associated
with the revolution. To the west rises the majestic
Sierra Maestra, also with its own associations with the
guerrilla war of the 1950s. The Sierra is most easily
reached, in fact, from the north, near Bayamo. To the
east, the Parque Baconao has all kinds of attractions,
The small islands of Baha de
ideal for families with children, while more
Naranjo, now a holiday village
adventurous souls can head further east, to the
province of Guantnamo, famous for its US naval
base, and Baracoa, Cubas oldest city. The province
of Holgun, further north, has some fine beaches,
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Minor road
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International border

Regional border A group of musicians improvising a concert

Summit in Parque Cspedes, Santiago de Cuba

For additonal map symbols see back flap

 E A S T E R N C U B A 211

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Baha de Bariay 3 Costa Sur i Mayar 7
Banes 6 El Yunque a Parque Baconao
Baracoa pp2423 p Gibara 2 pp2347 y
Baslica del Cobre e Gran Parque Nacional Ro Toa s
Bayamo 9 Sierra Maestra w Santiago de Cuba
Boca de Yumur d Guantnamo u pp22231 r
Castillo del Morro Guardalavaca 4
pp2323 t Holgun pp21213 1 Tour
Cayo Saeta 8 La Farola o Towards Santiago via
Chorro de Maita 5 Manzanillo 0 Cabo Cruz pp21819 q

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GETTING AROUND
Although sights on the outskirts of Santiago
can be reached by bus or taxi, by far the
best way to get around Eastern Cuba is
to hire a car. Some journeys are among
the most picturesque in Cuba, especially the
drive to Baracoa via La Farola (see
p239). Another option would be to fly to
the main eastern towns. Various organized
tours are also available, starting off
from Santiago or from the beach
resorts of Holgun province, especially
A perfectly restored Neo-Classical building
Guardalavaca. These tours can be
in the centre of Baracoa
booked through travel agencies.
212 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Holgun 1

Called the city of parks because of its many

leafy squares, Holgun is a modern town
built on a grid layout and situated between
two hills, Cerro de Mayabe and Loma de la
Cruz. The people of Holgun took an active
part in the wars of independence under the
A peanut leadership of Calixto Garca, the famous
vendor in general who liberated the city from the San Isidoro Cathedral, in the
Parque Garca Spanish in 1872. The house he was born spacious Parque Peralta
in is now a museum; the square named
after him marks the centre of the city and is dominated R Catedral de San Isidoro
by a statue of the heroic general. Calle Manduley, e/ Luz Caballero y
Aricoches, Parque Peralta. Tel (24) 422
107 (may be closed due to hurricane
Exploring Holgun display are archaeological rel- damage, phone to check). # 2:30
Calle Maceo and Manduley ics of the Tano Indians, who 6:30pm Mon, 7am noon & 2:30
two parallel streets with lived here from the 8th to the 6pm TueSun. 5 daily.
shops, hotels, bars and clubs, 15th centuries. The most Consecrated as a cathedral in
including the Casa de la Trova famous item in the collection 1979, San Isidoro was built in
cross three squares: Parque is the Hacha de Holgun, a 1720 on the site of the first
San Jos, Parque Calixto stone axe head carved as a mass held to celebrate the
Garca and Parque Peralta. human figure. It was discov- citys founding: Parque Peral-
Parque Garca, always ered in the hills around ta. It is also known as Parque
buzzing with people, is the Holgun, and has become de Flores because a flower
site of the towns chief the symbol of the city. market used to be held here.
monuments and museums The church contains a copy
including Casa Natal de E Museo de Historia of the popular Madonna of
Calixto Garca. Natural Carlos Caridad, the original of which
de la Torre y Huerta is in the Basilica del Cobre
P La Periquera (Museo Calle Maceo 129, e/ Mart y Luz near Santiago de Cuba (see
Provincial de Historia) Caballero. Tel (24) 423 935. p221). On 4 April there is a
Calle Frexes 198, e/ Manduley y closed for restoration until celebration in honour of
Maceo. Tel (24) 463 395. # late 2009. & 8 6 the Virgin.
8am4:30pm TueSat, 9amnoon One of the most interesting
Sun. 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 natural history museums in Loma de la Cruz
Oct, 25 Dec. & 8 6 (with Cuba has 11 collections with There are marvellous, far-
charge). many specimens of Cuban reaching views from the top
This large Neo-Classical and Caribbean flora and of the Loma de la Cruz (Hill
building with a court- Hacha fauna. There is an out- of the Cross). The engineers
yard overlooks Parque de Holgun standing collection of who founded Holgun used
Calixto Garca. It was birds and shells, includ- this site to plan the layout of
built in 1860 as a ballroom ing Polymita snails from the the town, but it was only
and casino for the local upper beaches of Baracoa (see p245), much later (from 192750)
middle class. In 1868, at the and a 50 million year-old fossil that the 458-step stairway was
beginning of the Ten Years fish, found in a quarry in the built to the top. Every year on
War (see p44), the building Sierra Maestra. 3 May, the people of Holgun
was occupied by the
Spanish army and
converted into a
barracks. Hence the
buildings nickname,
La Periquera, which
translates as parrot
cage, a reference to
the brightly coloured
uniforms of the
Spanish army.
Today, the building
is the home of the
Museo Provincial de
Historia, where five
rooms illustrate the
main stages of the cul-
tural development of
Holgun. Also on Parque Calixto Garca, with La Periquera; behind, the Loma de la Cruz

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2669 and p283
 E A S T E R N C U B A 213

VISITORS CHECKLIST
Holgun. Road Map E4.
* 200,000. k 13 km (8 miles)
south. Calle V Pita, (24) 422
331. @ Carretera Central y
Independencia, (24) 422 111.
n Cubatur, Guardalavaca, (24)
430 170, 430 171. _ Romeras
de Mayo (3 May).

and earth floor, a hen-house

and a courtyard containing
A panoramic view of Holgun from the top of the Loma de la Cruz jars for transporting water.
At No. 301 on the road
climb up the hill for the Environs leading to Gibara, a mile or
Romeras de Mayo, a celebra- Another, more distant viewing so north of the centre, is the
tion of Spanish origin. The point over the city is the small Fbrica de rganos,
top of Loma, about 3 km (2 Mirador de Mayabe on the the only factory in Cuba that
miles) northwest of Parque Cerro de Mayabe, which is manufactures mechanical
Calixto Garca, is marked by a about 10 km (6 miles) organs. The factory is open
Spanish lookout tower and by southeast of the city centre. to the public.
a cross placed there on 3 May From the mirador there is a
1790 by friar Antonio Alegra. view of the valley with its
fruit orchards and of Holgun
Plaza de la Revolucin in the distance. This spot is
Situated east of the city centre, also home to an aldea
behind Hotel Pernik, this campesina (country village),
vast square contains a with simple lodgings and a
monument to the heroes of restaurant, as well as an
Cuban independence, the open-air museum. This
mausoleum of Calixto Garca illustrates the lives of Cuban
and a small monument to his farmers living in a small
mother. The square is the village, with various examples
main venue for political rallies of a boho real, a typical rural A mechanical organ made
and popular festivities. home with a palm-leaf roof in the Holgun factory

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214 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

View of Gibara, an appealing seaside town with a Colonial centre

Gibara 2 History Museum) has one of Baha de Bariay 3

the best butterfly collections
Holgun. Road Map E3. in Cuba, and the Museo de Holgun. Road Map E3.
* 100,000. @ from Holgun. Artes Decorativas (Decorative
Arts Museum) is housed in a East of Gibara is a bay with
South of the bay that Columbus magnificent 19th-century a spit of land in the middle
named Ro de Mares (the river mansion. This last contains called Cayo de Bariay. Most
of seas) is the picturesque fine examples of mediopuntos historians (but not Baracoans,
town of Gibara. In the 19th (see p25) and mamparas (see see p242) agree that Columbus
century this was the main port p188) as well as Cuban furni- first landed here in 1492. With
on the northern coast of the ture and Art Nouveau objects. its abundant flowers and trees
province of Oriente, and it has E Museo de Ciencias
laden with fruit, it looked like
the most important Colonial Naturales paradise to the explorer. In
architecture in the area. Gibara Calle Maceo 131, e/ Mart y Luz 1992, on the 500th anniversary
is sometimes known as Villa Caballero. Tel (24) 423 935. # of Columbus landing in Cuba,
Blanca (white town) because 8:30am5pm MonFri. 1 Jan, 1 a monument called Encuentro
of its white houses. May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec. & 8 (Encounter), dedicated to the
The shady Malecn (seafront) 6 (with charge). Tano Indians, was erected
has a statue of Columbus E Museo de Artes here. The site is relatively
shown gazing at the horizon, Decorativas remote if travelling by car,
a ruined garrison and views Calle Independencia 19. Tel (24) but boat trips can be arranged
of the small fishing harbour. 34407. # 9amnoon & 15pm from Guardalavaca (see p215).
From here, narrow streets MonSat, 8amnoon Sun. East of Cayo de Bariay is the
lead to the main square, & 8 6 (with charge). beautiful Playa Don Lino.
overlooked by the Iglesia de
San Fulgencio (1854), and an
old theatre. The Museo de COLUMBUS IN CUBA
Ciencias Naturales (Natural On 28 October 1492, when he first set
foot on Cuban land, Columbus wrote in
his travel journal: I have never seen a
more beautiful place. Along the banks of
the river were trees I have never seen at
home, with flowers and fruit of the
most diverse kinds, among the
branches of which one heard the
delightful chirping of birds. There
were a great number of palms. Christopher Columbus,
When I descended from the explorer of the New World
launch, I approached two
fishermens huts. Upon seeing me, the natives took fright
and fled. Back on the boat, I went up the river for a good
distance. I felt such joy upon seeing these flowery gardens
and green forests and hearing the birds sing that I could not
tear myself away, and thus continued my trip. This island is
Faade of the Iglesia de San truly the most beautiful land human eyes have ever beheld.
Fulgencio at Gibara

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp266-9 and p283
 E A S T E R N C U B A 215

Guardalavaca 4 village, built for entertain-

ment, but historically
Holgun. Road Map F3. accurate. Visitors can buy
souvenirs and sample the
Converted in the mid-1980s food that the Amer-indians
into a holiday resort, the themselves used to eat. In
beach of Guardalavaca is the front of the huts are some
most popular holiday destina- life-size statues of natives.
tion in Cuba after Varadero
(see pp1623). Although the
resort is within easy reach of Banes 6
Holgun, 58 km (35 miles) to
the southwest along a road Holgun. Road Map F4.
through curious conical hills,
the location still feels remote. This country town, 32 km
The 4-km (2-mile) crescent- Skeletons found in the necropolis (20 m) southwest of Holgun,
shaped beach, enclosed at of Chorro de Maita is located in the middle of a
either end by rocks, is backed vast and rich excavation zone
by abundant vegetation. The Chorro de Maita 5 (the province of Holgun has
sea is crystal-clear, the sand is yielded one-third of the
fine, and there is a coral reef Cerro de Yaguajay, Banes (Holgun). archaeological finds in Cuba).
quite close to the shore. Road Map F4. Banes is the home of the
Behind the beach is a modern # TueSat. 1 Jan, 1 May, Museo Indocubano Bani,
tourist resort with the usual 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec. & 8 6 Cubas most important
holiday facilities. archaeological museum
The name Guardalavaca Near the coast, just 5 outside Havana. The
(watch the cow) derives from km (3 miles) south museum has over a
the Spanish word for the cattle of Guardalavaca, is thousand objects on
egret (see p20), a bird which is Chorro de Maita, the display, including
common throughout Cuba, largest native Indian axes, terracotta vases,
and especially prevalent here. necropolis in Cuba and flint knives and, most
West of the beach is Baha the Antilles. At this notably, a 4-cm (2-in)
de Naranjo, a natural park unmissable site high figure of a woman in
that comprises 32 km (20 archaeologists gold, known as the dolo
miles) of coastline and 1,000 have found 56 de Oro. It was found
ha (2,470 acres) of woods, skeletons and dolo de Oro, Museo near Banes, and
with karst hills covered with a number of Indocubano Bani dates from the
thick vegetation. There are clay objects, bone 13th century.
three small islands in the bay; amulets, funerary offerings
on one, Cayo Naranjo, there is and decorated shells. E Museo Indocubano Bani
an aquarium featuring shows All this material can be seen Calle General Barrero 305, e/ Mart
y Cspedes. Tel (24) 802 487.
with sea lions and dolphins. from a boardwalk inside the
# 9am5pm TueSat, 8amnoon
Boat tours, diving and fishing aldea tana, a reconstruction Sun. & 8 6 (with charge).
trips are also organized here. of a pre-Columbian rural

The lovely clear turquoise sea at Guardalavaca, Eastern Cubas Varadero

216 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Cayo Saeta 8 1975 it was part of the large

Oriente province, but after
Holgun. Road Map F4. administrative reform it
became the capital of a new
Lying at the mouth of the province, Granma. It is a pas-
Bay of Nipe, this small island ture and livestock breeding
covering 42 sq km (16 sq area, but has also been the
miles), with wonderfully home of nationalists and
fascinating coves, is the cradle of political revolts
connected to the mainland and struggles.
by a drawbridge. It was In 1869, rather than
formerly a private hunting surrender their town to
reserve, and Spain, the citizens
in the woods and burned Bayamo down.
meadows, antelopes As a result, the centre is
The coves at Cayo Saeta, known and zebra still live side relatively modern. Daily
for their fine white sand by side with species life revolves around the
native to Cuba. On Plaza de la Revolucin
safaris, led by expert (Parque Cspedes),
Mayar 7 guides, visitors the main square,
travelling on dominated by a
Holgun. Road Map F4. horseback or in The statue of Carlos statue of local
* 30,000. jeeps can observe Manuel de Cspedes plantation owner
and photograph at Bayamo and war of indepen-
Mayar, 100 km (62 miles) the animals. The dence hero Carlos
southeast of Holgun, was few tourist facilities on this Manuel de Cspedes (1955).
founded in 1757 and, island are for residents only The square is home to almost
together with Gibara (see and were designed with every all the important buildings in
p214), is the oldest city in care for the environment. town: the Cultural Centre, the
the province. The small Royaltn Hotel, the offices of
Colonial centre can be the Poder Popular, and the
explored in a short time. Bayamo 9 historic Pedrito caf.
Nearby are the Farallones Adjacent to the main square
de Seboruco, caves where Granma. Road Map E4. * 130,000. is Plaza del Himno (Square of
objects left by the Tano peo- ~ Saco y Lnea, (23) 423 012. the Hymn). It gained its name
ple have been found. Nearby @ Carretera Central y Jess Rab (23) after La Bayamesa, the Cuban
is an important eco-tourist 424 036. n Islazul, Calle General national anthem, was first
site, the Meseta de Pinares de Garca e/ Lora y Mas, (23) 426 989 played in the church here on
Mayar, a large forest (may be closed due to hurricane 20 October 1868. Marking this
cloaking the hills up to an damage, phone to check). event is a sculpture that
altitude of 1,000 m (3,280 ft). includes a bronze plaque on
Southwest of Mayar is The second oldest town which are engraved the
Birn, where Fidel Castro was in Cuba after Baracoa, words and music by Perucho
born on 13 August 1926. His Bayamo was founded in 1513 Figueredo. His bust stands
parents house is still standing. by Diego Velzquez. Until next to the nationalists flag.

Plaza de la Revolucin, also known as Parque Cspedes, in Bayamo

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2669 and p283
 E A S T E R N C U B A 217

BAYAMO THE REBELLIOUS

Bayamo has a long tradition of rebellion. In the early 1500s,
the native Indians, led by their chief, Hatuey, fiercely
resisted the Spanish (see p219). A few years later an African
slave killed the pirate Gilberto Giron, displaying his head as
a trophy in the central plaza. This episode inspired the epic
poem Espejo de Paciencia by Silvestre de Balboa, the first
major work of Cuban literature (see p28). But the most
dramatic episode in the history of Bayamo concerns the
struggles for independence, during which, on 10 October
1868, a group of local nationalists and intellectuals Juan
Clemente Zenea, Carlos Manuel de Cspedes (see p43),
Pedro Figueredo, Jos Fornaris and Jos Joaqun Palma
organized an anti-Spanish revolt. They entered the town
on 20 October, and declared it the capital of the Republic Interior of the Parroquial Mayor de
in Arms. On 12 January, faced with the fact that Bayamo San Salvador
would be recaptured by Colonial troops, the citizens
decided to set fire to their own town, an act which later R Parroquial Mayor
led to the choice of La Bayamesa as the national anthem. de San Salvador
Plaza del Himno esq. Jos Joaqun
Palma. Tel (23) 422 514.
# 9amnoon & 35pm daily.
When the nationalists of
Bayamo chose to burn down
their own town rather than
leave anything for the Spanish,
they put the holy images kept
in the Parroquial Mayor (the
Cathedral) into safekeeping.
That was the plan, at all events.
Unfortunately, the only things
spared by the fire were the
font (which had been used for
the baptism of Carlos Manuel
de Cspedes) and the Capilla
The monument dedicated to the national anthem, La Bayamesa de los Dolores, a chapel built
in 1740, which contained an
image of the Virgin Mary and
In the smaller Parque Maceo collection, with Cspedes a Baroque altarpiece made of
Osorio, formerly Parque de documents and personal gilded wood. The altarpiece
San Francisco, north of Plaza items, including his steel has a particularly fine frame
de la Revolucin, is the Casa and bronze sword. decorated with tropical motifs
de la Trova Olimpio La O, Upstairs are several and representations of local
one of the towns few 18th- furnished rooms, one of fruit and animals, an unusual
century buildings. The court- which has a bronze bed and very Cuban element in
yard is used by local groups for with mother-of-pearl the art of the 18th century.
concerts. medallions, a fine example In 1916, Bishop Guerra
of Colonial furniture. A commissioned the re-
E Casa Natal de Carlos gallery leads to the old construction of the old
Manuel de Cspedes kitchen, which still has its Parroquial Mayor, dedicated to
Calle Maceo 57, e/ Marmol y Palma. original ceramic oven. Jesus the Saviour, the patron
Tel (23) 423 864. # 10am5:30pm saint of Bayamo. The original
TueFri, 10am2pm & 810pm Sat, building had been finished in
10am3pm Sun. & 8 6 1613 and in the course of time
The house where the leading had been transformed into a
figure in the first war against large three-aisle church with
Spain in the 19th century two choirs, nine altars and a
was born on 18 April 1819 finely wrought pulpit.
is a handsome, two-storey The new church was opened
Colonial building facing on 9 October 1919, with the
Plaza de la Revolucin. old image of Jesus the Saviour
Architecturally it is the most salvaged from the fire, a new
important building in the city. marble altar, a patriotic
The rooms on the ground painting by the Dominican
floor, which open onto a artist Luis Desangles, and
courtyard with a fountain, Faade of the birthplace of plastered brick walls frescoed
contain the heart of the Carlos Manuel de Cspedes by Esteban Ferrer.
218 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Manzanillo 0
Granma. Road map E4.
k Sierra Maestra, 8 km (5 miles)
south of town. @ Bayamo,
Camagey, Havana, Piln, Yara.

Built along the Caribbean Bay

of Guacanayabo, Manzanillo
is a charming seaside town. It
was founded as Puerto Real
in 1784, and reached its
apogee in the second half of
the 19th century, thanks to
sugar and the slave trade.
Memories are still strong The Glorieta Morisca de Manzanillo, where the municipal band plays
of the feats of Castros rebel
forces in the nearby Sierra bandstand for concerts by in town, all near the Parque
Maestra, especially those of local bands was opened on Cspedes, include the Neo-
Castros assistant Celia 25 June 1924. The so-called Classical Iglesia de la Pursima
Snchez, who organized a Glorieta Morisca gained its Concepcin, built in the
crucial rearguard here. She name because of its Arab- 1920s; the atmospheric Caf
is honoured by a striking influenced decoration, 1906, the 19th-century town
monument in the town. designed by Jos Martn del hall, now the Asamblea
In Parque Cspedes, the Castillo, an architect from Municipal del Poder Popular;
central square, a brickwork Granada. Other monuments and the Colonia Espaola, a

Towards Santiago via Cabo Cruz q

This fascinating route by road to Santiago skirts the

high slopes of the Sierra Maestra which, along the
south coast, almost force the road into the sea in
places. The surrounding scenery is unspoiled and at
times wild, and conceals several places of historical
significance. The route can be covered in a day, but
for a more relaxing drive visitors could consider
staying in Marea del Portillo.
La Demajagua 1
Cspedess estate still has
Playa Las Coloradas 3 sugar-making equipment,
It was here that 82 rebels Media Luna 2 such as these calderas used
landed aboard the Granma This is the birthplace of for making molasses.
in December 1956 (see p48). the revolutionary Celia
Snchez (see p51). The
house is now a museum.

El Guafe 4
This archaeological site has
pre-Columbian finds on Niquero
display in a small museum. Punto Nuevo

Parque Nacional Desembarco

del Granma 5
This park has few facilities but Blic
is rich in local flora, including
some extraordinary orchids.
Interesting natural sights
include caves. There are also
various sites commemorating
the journey of the
revolutionaries following Cabo Cruz
their arrival on the Granma.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2669 and p283
 E A S T E R N C U B A 219

social club for Spanish immi-

grants that was completed in HATUEYS SACRIFICE
1935. The club is located in a Over the centuries, the sacrifice of Hatuey acquired great
building with an Andalusian patriotic significance and gave rise to numerous legends,
courtyard and a panel of including La Luz de Yara (The Light of Yara), written by
painted tiles representing Luis Victoriano Betancourt in 1875. The author relates that
Columbuss landing in Cuba. from the stake on which the Indian hero was being
burned, there arose a mysterious light that wandered
Environs throughout the island, protecting the sleep of the slaves
10 km (6 miles) south of who were awaiting their freedom. This light was the soul of
Manzanillo are the remains of Hatuey. Three centuries later, the wandering light returned
La Demajagua, the estate to the site of the Indians
belonging to Carlos Manuel sacrifice, and in a flash all the
de Cspedes (see pp42 & palm trees in Cuba shook, the
217). On 10 October 1868, he sky was lit up, the earth
freed all of his slaves, urging trembled, and the light turned
them to join him in fighting into a fire that stirred Cubans
the Spanish. hearts: It was the Light of
Yara, 24 km (15 miles) Yara, which was about to take
east of Manzanillo, is where its revenge. It was the tomb of
Cspedes proclaimed Cuban Hatuey, which became the
independence, and where cradle of independence. It
the Indian hero Hatuey was was 10 October the
burned at the stake. There is beginning of the war of The Indian chief Hatuey being
a small museum in the central independence. burned at the stake
square, Plaza Grito de Yara.

VISITORS CHECKLIST
Departure point: Manzanillo.
Length: 350 km (220 miles).
Stop-off points: Campismo Las
Manzanillo
Coloradas (huts and restaurant),
Bayamo
4 km (2 miles) southwest of Blic.
Yara For lodging: Hotel Faralln del

Caribe and Club Amigo Marea
del Portillo, Piln (see p267).

Southern Coast 8
The southern coastline of
the province of Granma
is fascinating, with scenic
cliffs and bays. The
Piln 6 coastal road connecting
This sugar-producing Marea del Portillo and
town has a thriving Santiago de Cuba is
commercial port. It is flanked by mountains
also the home of the covered with vegetation
Museo Municipal Celia on one side and sparkling
Snchez Manduley. sea on the other.

0 km 15

0 miles 15

J Mota Uno KEY

Tour route
Piln
Santiago Other roads
Marea del Portillo 7
de Cuba
In an inlet surrounded by rocks, this beach of black Path
sand has a handful of hotels. It is a good starting point
Viewpoint
for hikes and horse rides, boat trips and diving excursions.
220 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Gran Parque
Nacional
Sierra Maestra w
Granma, Santiago de Cuba.
Road Map F4.
n Cubanacn, Santiago de Cuba,
(22) 642 202, 641 752, 641 891;
Cubanacn, Hotel Sierra Maestra,
km 1.5 Carretera Santiago de Cuba,
(23) 427 970.

This national park, which

covers an area of 38,000 ha
(95,000 acres), spans the
provinces of Granma and View from the Pico Turquino, the highest mountain in Cuba
Santiago de Cuba. This is
where the major peaks of the Domingo), you can go on to be organized in Villa Santo
island are found, including Comandancia de la Plata, Domingo, where guides
Pico Turquino (at 1,974 m/ Castros headquarters in the can be hired. Overnight
6,390 ft, the highest in Cuba), 1950s. Here there is a museum, accommodation in the
as well as sites made famous a small camp hospital and the mountains is available either
by the guerrilla war waged site from which Che Guevara at campsites or in simple
by Fidel Castro and made his radio broadcasts. refuges. Note however that
the barbudos. Comandancia de la Plata is since much of this area is a
The main starting accessible only on foot military zone, it is not always
point for exploring the an hours walk through open to the public.
Sierra Maestra is Villa lovely, though often At present, it is possible to
Santo Domingo, about foggy, forest. The do a three-day guided trek
35 km (22 miles) south area was made into across the park, beginning at
of the Bayamo a national park in Alto del Naranjo and ending
Manzanillo road 1980, and is not only at Las Cuevas, a small town
(there is simple important historically. The on the Caribbean Sea.
accommodation in dense, humid forest Hikers do not need to be
Santo Domingo). The gaviln del monte, conceals many expert mountaineers in order
From Santo common in the Sierra species of orchid to take part in this walking
Domingo, you can Maestra and various kinds of tour, because the path is
make the chal- local fauna. The equipped with ladders,
lenging 5-km (3-mile) journey mountains of the Sierra handrails and rock-cut steps.
on foot or in a good off- Maestra are excellent hiking However, it is still advisable
road vehicle to the Alto del territory, and also attract to do a certain amount of
Naranjo viewpoint (950 mountain climbers. The training beforehand. The
m/3,120 ft). With a permit scenery is spectacular but be final descent from Pico
(obtainable from the forest prepared for spartan facilities. Turquino onwards is fairly
rangers in Villa Santo A limited number of treks can strenuous and walkers need
to be reasonably fit.
It is important to take
proper mountain gear with
you: walking boots, thick
socks, a hat to protect you
from the sun, as well as a
sweater, a windproof jacket,
perhaps even a waterproof
groundsheet and a good tent.
The humidity in the Sierra,
which is often enveloped
in mist, is very high, and
showers are common.
The coast at the southern
edge of the Sierra Maestra,
known as the Riviera del
Caribe, is spectacular. The
coastal road runs close
above the waters of the
Caribbean Sea and offers
excellent views of coastal
View of the splendid coastline south of Sierra Maestra stacks and coves.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2669 and p283
 E A S T E R N C U B A 221

Baslica
del Cobre e
Santiago de Cuba.
Road Map F4. @ Carretera Central
21, (22) 346 118. # daily. 5 _
procession (8 Sep).

The village of El Cobre, about

20 km (12 miles) west of
Santiago de Cuba, was once
famous for its copper (cobre)
mines. A great number of
slaves worked here up until
1807. Nowadays the village is
best known for Cubas most
famous church, the Baslica de
Nuestra Seora de la Caridad
del Cobre. Here the main
attraction is a statue of the
Virgen del Cobre. This black The Basilica del Cobre, surrounded by tropical vegetation
Madonna is richly dressed in
yellow, and wears a crown This fine three-aisled church, and two side towers crowned
encrusted with diamonds, built in 1926, stands on a by brick-red domes are a
emeralds and rubies, with a hill, the Cerro de la Cantera, striking sight above the light-
golden halo above. She carries which is linked to the village painted faade.
a cross of diamonds and by a flight of 254 steps. The The basilica is the object of
amethysts. The statue is kept elegant central bell tower pilgrimages from all over the
in an air-conditioned glass island. In the Los Milagros
case behind the high altar. chapel, thousands of ex-votos
It is taken out every year left by pilgrims are on display.
on 8 September when a pro- Some are rather curious, such
cession takes place to com- as the Nobel Prize medal won
memorate the Virgins saints by Ernest Hemingway, beards
day. The Virgen del Cobre left by some of the rebels who
was proclaimed the protec- survived the guerrilla war in
tress of Cuba in 1916 and was the Sierra; an object belonging
blessed and crowned by Pope to Castros mother; and earth
John Paul II during his visit to The austere interior of the collected by Cuban soldiers
Cuba in 1998 (see p64). Sanctuary of the Virgen del Cobre who fought in Angola.

THE VIRGEN DEL COBRE

According to legend, in 1606 three figure is associated with the Afro-Cuban cult
slaves who worked in the copper of Ochn (see p22), the goddess of rivers,
mines of El Cobre were saved in gentleness, femininity and love, who is also
the Bay of Nipe, off the north always depicted as a beautiful black woman
coast of Cuba, by the statue of wearing yellow. Now that the santera
a black Virgin Mary holding religion is widespread in Cuba, the sacred
the Holy Child in her arms. image of the Virgin of El Cobre and the more
They had been caught in a profane, sensuous image of the beautiful
The statue of the storm while out in a boat African goddess are often combined in
Virgen del Cobre and would have drowned prayers and discussion, and set beside each
had not the Virgin, whose other on rustic home altars, often without any
image was floating among the waves, come to apparent awareness of contradiction.
their aid. In reality, it seems that the statue
arrived in Cuba by ship from Illescas, a town
in Castile, upon the request of the governor
Snchez de Moya, who wanted a Spanish
Madonna for the village of El Cobre.
Whatever the truth, in 1611 the Virgen de la
Caridad was given a small sanctuary and
immediately became an object of veneration
for the locals, who continued to attribute
miraculous powers to her. The devotion for
this Madonna has always been very strong,
even among non-practising Catholics. Her A group of ex-votos offered by the barbudos
222 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Santiago de Cuba r

This is perhaps the most African, the most

musical and the most passionate city in
Cuba. In 1930 the Spanish poet Federico
Garca Lorca likened it to a harp made
of living branches, a caiman, a tobacco
flower. Except for the cars and some
Sign for the modern buildings, Santiago has not
Rum Museum altered much since those days. This is
a city where the heat and the hills
mean that people move to a slow rhythm. It is a lively,
exciting place where festivities and dancing are
celebrated with fervour, never more so than during
A restored Neo-Classical
Carnival. Santiagos citizens also take pride in the building in the historic centre
fact that Santiago is called the Cradle of the
Revolution. Sandwiched between the
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1968, and local and be seen from the Balcn de
foreign bands can be Velzquez, a wonderful view-
heard playing here point situated at the corner of
day and night. Calle Mariano Corona and
Photographs of great Bartolom Mas. The view-
Cuban musicians past point was named after the
and present such as El Spanish conquistador Diego
Guayabero and Velzquez, who founded the
Calle Heredia, the liveliest street in Compay Segundo city in 1515. A small fort was
Santiago de Cuba cover the walls. built here in the 16th century
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2669 and p283
 S A N T I A G O D E C U B A 223

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE VISITORS CHECKLIST

Ayuntamiento 2 Hotel Casa Granda 3
Santiago de Cuba. Road Map F4.
Balcn de Velzquez q Museo de la Lucha * 400,000. k 7 km (4 miles)
Caf La Isabelica 9 Clandestina e south of town. Ave. Jess
Casa de Diego Velzquez 1 Museo del Carnaval 8 Menndez, esq. Hechevarra. @
Casa de la Trova 5 Museo del Ron 0 Ave. de los Libertadores, esq.
Casa Natal Museo Provincial Yaray, (22) 623 050. n Havana-
de Antonio Maceo r Bacard Moreau 7 tur, Hotel Santiago, Calle M y Ave
Casa Natal de Jos Mara Parque Histrico de las Amricas, (22) 644 402;
Heredia 6 Cubatur, Ave. Garzn e/ 3ra y 4ta,
Abel Santamara y
(22) 652 560. _ Festival del
Catedral de la Asuncin 4 Plaza de Marte u Caribe (early Jul), Carnival (late Jul).
Cuartel Moncada t Steps of Padre Pico w
0 metres 200

0 yards 200

Key to Symbols see back flap

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centuries, various peoples
have arrived and stayed,
including Puerto Ricans,
Jamaicans, Arabs, Dominicans
and Chinese. In the 1700s a
to house artillery to be used colony of French people from
in the event of an attack. Haiti also settled here, setting
Today, only fragments of the up shops, music schools,
original walls remain. Inside theatres and hotels.
the viewpoint area itself are
some attractive bronze tondos East of Parque Cspedes
(circular carvings in relief) To the east of the square, at
with portraits of Diego the corner of Calle Bartolom
Velzquez, Hernn Corts, Mas and Calle Hartmann (San
Bartolom de Las Casas and Flix), is the Museo del Ron
the Indian Guam. Cultural (Rum Museum), housed in a
events are sometimes held at late 19th-century building. Customers at La Isabelica, an
the Balcn de Velzquez. Displays illustrate how rum is atmospheric historic caf
224 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Street-by-Street: Parque Cspedes

The former Plaza de Armas in Santiago is the heart of
the city, both geographically and spiritually. Renamed
Parque Cspedes in honour of the nations founding
father (see p44), whose statue stands in the middle, this
square is a place for socializing, relaxing, chatting and
celebrating. At all hours of the day and night, the benches
are filled with people, young, old, women, children and
visitors. No one is alone here for long. Everyone sooner
or later gets involved in a conversation or entertainment Casa de la Trova
of some kind, because this squares other role is as an Live music is performed
open-air venue where music live, recorded, or here daily.
improvised takes the leading role. Restored in Neo-
Classical style in 1943, the square consists of four areas,
each with fountains and greenery, divided by lanes.

CA
The house where the poet Jos

LLE
Heredia was born is a fine 18th-
century building around

GEN
a leafy courtyard

ERA
(p227).

L L
AC
RET
CA
LLE
HA
RTM
AN
N

. Museo Provincial IA
RED
Bacard Moreau E H
E
LL
The oldest museum in Cuba, CA

housed in an elegant Neo-

Classical building, is also
the most eclectic. Items on
display range from an
Egyptian mummy to
mementoes of the wars of
independence and works
by living artists (p228).
ERA
UIL
AG
LLE
KEY CA

Suggested route

STAR SIGHTS
Seafront
. Casa de Diego
Hotel Casa Granda
Velzquez One of Cubas historic hotels
. Museo Provincial (see p269), the Casa Granda
Bacard Moreau
opened in 1920. Graham
Greene (see p87) described it in
. Catedral de la Our Man in Havana as a hotel
Asuncin frequented by spies. Its terrace
overlooks the square.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2669 and p283
 S A N T I A G O D E C U B A 225

. Catedral de la Asuncin
The Cathedral faade is Neo-Classical,
but the original church is four centuries
old. It is believed that Diego Velzquez is
buried somewhere beneath the building,
but there is no proof of this (p227).

Paseo
de Mart

S
MA
LO M Balcn de Velzquez
R TO
BA This spacious viewing terrace, built
LLE
CA over the site of a Spanish fortress,
offers a magnificent view of the
picturesque quarter of Tivol, as well
CA

as the port and the bay of Santiago.

LLE

There is an admission charge (p222).

F
LIX
PE

A
EDI
A

HER
LLE
CA

CA
LL
E M
AR
IAN
O
CO
RO
NA

. Casa de Diego
Velzquez
Built in 151630, the
residence of the Spanish
ES conquistador Diego
S PED
E C Velzquez is considered
PA RQU
by some to be the oldest
building in Cuba.
Restoration was carried
out in 1965, and it is now
the home of the Museo de
0 metres 50 Ambiente Histrico
0 yards 50 Cubano (p226).
The Casa de la Cultura Miguel
Matamoros, an eclectic building
(1919) housing the sumptuous
Saln de los Espejos, is a venue
for artistic and cultural events.

Ayuntamiento
The Ayuntamiento (town hall), a
symbol of the city, was built in
1950 according to 18th-century
designs found in the Indies Archive.
It was from this buildings central
balcony that Fidel Castro made
his first speech to the Cuban
people, on 1 January 1959.
226 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Exploring Parque Cspedes

One of the liveliest squares in Cuba,
Parque Cspedes is not only a place for
socializing, but also has sites of cultural
and architectural importance. Allow half
Ceramic plate, Casa
a day to visit three of the most
de Velzquez important monuments around the
Parque: the house of Diego Velzquez,
the impressive cathedral, and the residence of the great
19th-century poet Jos Mara Heredia. The courtyard in the 19th-century
wing of Diego Velzquezs house

The building now houses influences and French rococo

the Museo de Ambiente motifs. These pieces of
Histrico Cubano, covering furniture are massive, lavish
the history of furniture in and intricately worked, often
Cuba. It contains superb finished at the base with feet
examples from all Colonial shaped like claws. The 19th-
periods. Among the mostly century section includes a
austere Creole furniture, dining room with stained-
dating from the 16th and glass windows and French
17th centuries, are a splendid furniture, including rocking
priests high-backed chair chairs, a console table and
and a finely wrought coffer a Charles X mirror.
two excellent examples of Another important item is a
Moorish-style objects. tapestry with the coat-of-arms
The basement has 18th- of the Velzquez family, the
century Luis Las Casas only piece in the museum
A room with Colonial furniture furniture, a style peculiar to that is directly related to this
in Diego Velzquezs house Cuba which combines English Spanish conquistador.

P Casa de Diego Velzquez

(Museo de Ambiente THE 16TH-CENTURY MUDEJAR-STYLE HOUSE
Histrico Cubano) Considered the oldest private building in Cuba and declared
Calle Flix Pea 612, e/ Heredia y a national monument because of its historic value, the
Aguilera. Tel (22) 652 652. # 9am 16th-century section of Velzquezs house is a fine example
12:45pm, 25pm MonSat, 9am of the Cuban version of the mudjar (Moorish) style
12:45pm Sun. Fri am. & 8 6 although much of what is there is the result of restoration.
(with charge).
This building, constructed in
151630 as a residence for the
governor Diego Velzquez, is
the oldest home in Cuba,
according to architect
Francisco Prat Puig, who
restored the house in 1965.
(Other scholars dispute this
assertion, however, and not
everyone has praised the The courtyard, in mudjar Wooden screens protect the
restoration.) Whatever the style, is narrow and long and gallery and balconies from
truth, this splendid residence runs around a central well. the sun and public gaze.
is still fascinating.
In the 1600s it was the so-
called House of Transactions
(the ground floor still has an
old furnace in which gold
ingots were made). In the
19th century it was joined to
the building next door. The
upstairs gallery facing the
courtyard is closed off by a
Moorish wooden blind, to
screen residents from the eyes Frescoes, known as cenefas, Cedar ceilings with geometric
of strangers. Also upstairs, decorate the lower part of the patterns, called alfarjes, were
some of the original alfarje walls, but they are not original. common in the 16th century.
ceilings survive.
 S A N T I A G O D E C U B A 227

The lovely wooden inlaid choir in the Catedral de Nuestra Seora de la Asuncin

R Catedral de Nuestra E Casa Natal tiled floors, and is well worth

Seora de la Asuncin de Jos Mara Heredia a visit. From the large
Calle Heredia, e/ Lacret y Flix Pea. Calle Heredia 260, e/ Hartmann entrance hall, with a coffered
Tel (22) 628 502 (may be closed due (San Flix) y Po Rosado (Carniceria). ceiling and paintings of the
to hurricane damage, phone to check). # TueSat; Sun am. poets ancestors on the walls,
# 8:30am1pm & 57pm TueSat, 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, a large arch leads into the
810:30am & 57pm Sun. 5 6:30pm 25 Dec. & 8 6 central peristyled courtyard.
TueFri, 5pm Sat, 9am & 6:30pm Sun. This is the modest but elegant Here there are wooden
The cathedral of Santiago has 18th-century house where the columns, a stone well and
a basilica layout, nationalist poet Jos abundant vegetation.
with a central nave Mara Heredia Other rooms in the house
and four aisles, an (180339) was born. include Heredias bedroom,
apse and a narthex Heredia, highly which has an impressive
or vestibule at the regarded for his mahogany bed and elegant
back. The church odes to nature (see antique lamps.
has been rebuilt p28), should not be Cultural events and poetry
several times over confused with his readings are often held in the
the centuries. The Interior of the cousin, a French museums large porticoes. In
original was built in cathedrals dome Parnassian poet, addition, every year literary
1522, but in the who was also born seminars and workshops are
early 17th century a series of in Cuba but spent practically held here as part of the Festival
pirate raids caused so much all his life in Europe. del Caribe, or Fiesta del Fuego.
damage that the church was The well-preserved house This summer cultural event
rebuilt in 166670. In the 18th contains period furniture and takes over the entire city of
and 19th centuries it was fur- objects, wooden ceilings and Santiago (see p35).
ther damaged by earthquakes.
Today the cathedral, which
has been declared a national
monument, displays a mixture
of styles, the result of a series
of changes made in 1922 by
the architect Segrera, who
added the bell towers, had
the interior painted, and also re-
worked the faade. A marble
angel was set over the main
entrance and statues of
Christopher Columbus and
Bartolom de las Casas were
placed in side niches.
The cathedral also has a
museum, the Museo Eclesisti-
co, which displays frescoes by
the Dominican friar Luis Desan-
gles, liturgical objects, statues
and an important collection of
ecclesiastical music scores. Entrance hall of Heredias house, its arch leading to the courtyard
228 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Around Calle Heredia

This street is one of the liveliest in Cuba. It buzzes with
music and activity, and the sound of guitars, maracas,
percussion and voices can be heard at all hours of the
day, not just in the Casa de la Trova or the Casa de la
UNEAC, but also in the Museo del Carnaval, where
concerts are held in the courtyard. The nearby Museo
Bacard is devoted to Cuban history.

is a large collection of arms

used by nationalist generals
and heroes such as Antonio Decorated tumbadoras (see p31) in
Maceo, Mximo Gmez and the Museo del Carnaval
Jos Mart. There is also an
important collection of works Museo del Carnaval was
by 19th-century Cuban paint- opened here on 7 June 1983.
ers, including Felipe Lpez The six rooms contain photo-
Gonzlez, Juan Emilio Hernn- graphs with explanatory
dez Giro, Jos Joaqun Tejada captions, chronologies,
Revilla and Buenaventura Mar- banners, musical instruments,
tnez. Twentieth-century artists costumes and papier mch
Techos de Santiago de Cuba by represented here are Wifredo masks a well-documented
Felipe Gonzlez, Museo Bacard Lam and Ren Portocarrero (see survey of the Carnival
pp267). The archaeology festivities held in Santiago.
E Museo Provincial section is in the basement and Carnival here differs from the
Bacard Moreau includes the only Egyptian traditional Spanish model and
Calle Po Rosado (Carniceria), esq. mummy in Cuba. combines many African and
Aguilera. Tel (22) 628 402. # Franco-Haitian elements.
14:15pm Mon, 911:45am, E Museo del Carnaval The courtyard is used for
14:15pm TueSat, 9amnoon Sun. Calle Heredia 303, esq. Po Rosado folk events and concerts,
& 8 6 (with charge). (Carniceria). Tel (22) 626 955. # 2 as well as for rehearsals by
This is the oldest museum in 5pm Mon, 9am5pm TueSat, 9am bands preparing to perform
Cuba. It was founded in 1828 1pm Sun. & 8 6 (with charge). during Carnival.
and is a rich source of relics This lovely late 18th-century
dating from the Spanish building was converted into E Museo de la
conquest to the wars an elementary school in the Lucha Clandestina
of independence. The mid-1900s, then into an office Calle Rab 1, e/ San Carlo y
objects were building, and eventually Santa Rita. Tel (22) 624 689.
collected and became the offices of the # 9am5pm TueSun. & 8 ^
organized in the Carnival Commission. The The Museum of the
late 1800s and Clandestine Struggle
early 1900s by overlooks a pleasant
Emilio Bacard, square in the district
founder of the of Tivol, southwest
famous rum of Parque Cspedes.
distillery. Bacard The building was the
The statue was also a headquarters of
of Liberty famous patriot Batistas police from
in the foyer and the first 1951 to 1956. On 30
mayor of Santia- November 1956 it
go when Cuba became a was burnt down
republic. His aim was to dis- by revolutionaries,
play the origin and develop- led by Frank Pas
ment of the Cuban nationalist (see p50).
movement from a cultural The four rooms in
point of view, and he asked the restored building
the architect Segrera to design commemorate the
a building for the objects and activities of the Mov-
works of art he had collected. imiento 26 de Julio, the
The museum is housed in movement headed in
an eclectic building with a Santiago by Frank Pas
broad staircase and an atrium up to 30 July 1957,
dominated by two large when the young rebel
statues of Minerva and Part of an elaborate float in the leader was assassinated
Liberty. On the ground floor Museo del Carnaval by Batistas police.
 S A N T I A G O D E C U B A 229

Carnival in Santiago de Cuba

The roots of the Carnival in accompaniment of drums, rattles
Santiago are religious: since the and other instruments. These were
end of the 17th century there the forerunners of the comparsas,
have been processions and the soul of Carnival: groups of
festivities from 24 June to 26 July people wearing masks or costumes,
in honour of the citys patron dancing to the rhythm of the conga
saint, Santiago Apostolo. At the and carrying streamers, banners and
end of the parade, slaves who farolas (brightly coloured paper
were members of the cabildos street lamps). In the second
societies that kept alive Playing the half of July the whole town
African languages, traditions trompeta china celebrates, every district taking
and beliefs were allowed to go out part in the parades, each with at
into the streets, where they sang to the least one comparsa.

The young people in each

quarter meet every
evening except Monday
in the focos culturales,
places where they
prepare for Carnival
by rehearsing the
dances and music
they will perform
in July.
Parades go through the streets of
Santiago. Some of the comparsas,
The type of tumbadora such as the Carabal Izuama (see
used in the conga p289), date from the 19th century.
The musicians in each
group are dressed alike.
They are followed by a
crowd swaying to the
rhythm of the music.

THE CONGA
The chief dance for
Carnival is the conga
(also a genuine musical
genre). People form a
procession and dance
through the streets,
following a band
playing various
instruments, including
different kinds of drums
and the trompeta china,
introduced to Cuba in
the late 1800s.
The bombo, a drum
The Tropicana de Santiago joins with a deep sound
the procession with the other
comparsas, and also presents
open-air performances in
lavish costumes.

Papier mch masks

are an essential part
of a Carnival float.
Huge and brightly
coloured, they often
represent animals
or caricatures of
human faces.
230 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Beyond Santiagos Historic Centre The funerary monuments

themselves are fascinating.
Calle Saco (also known as Enramada), Santiagos The Neo-Classical tombs
main commercial street, links the heart of the old city nearest the entrance are
with the port. After passing through a working-class the oldest, followed by the
eclectic and then Modernist
quarter, with early 20th-century wooden houses, the tombs. The Rationalist tombs
street ends at Paseo Martimo. Laid out in the Colonial built from the mid-20th
era as a seafront promenade for the citys high society, century on include Marts
this broad street retains echoes of its former beauty and large octagonal mausoleum.
still has its original 1840 paving, stretching out along
the port, where cruisers and yachts are moored. An E Museo Histrico 26 de
alternative route to explore is to go in the opposite Julio Cuartel Moncada
Calle General Portuondo (Trinidad),
direction, east of the centre, where there are important
e/ Moncada y Ave de los Libertadores.
historic sites, including the Moncada barracks. Tel (22) 620 157. # 9:30am5:30pm
TueSat, 9:15am12:30pm Sun.
E Casa Natal & 8 6 (with charge).
de Antonio Maceo On 26 July 1953, at the height
Calle Los Maceos 207, e/ Corona of the Carnival festivities, Fidel
y Rastro. Tel (22) 623 750. Castro led about 100 rebels in
# 9am5pm MonSat. & 8 an attack on the Moncada
6 (with charge). barracks (see p48). Capturing
The house where this great Moncada, the second largest
general was born on 14 June garrison in Cuba, built in the
1845 (he died near Havana on 19th century, would have
7 December 1896; see p44) is a meant securing a large stock of
modest place. Visitors can see weapons and thus triggering a
some of the heros personal general revolt. Abel Santamara
belongings and family was to attack the Saturnino
photographs, including one Lora hospital, a strategic site
of his brother Jos, who was on a promontory overlooking
also a general, and one of The mausoleum of Mart in the the barracks, and Ral Castro
his mother, Mariana Grajales. Santa Ifigenia Cemetery was to capture the law courts
building. This bold attempt
P Cementerio reserved for those of higher failed, but it did succeed in
de Santa Ifigenia social status. A visit to the increasing public awareness
Avenida Crombet. Tel (22) 632 723. Santa Ifigenia cemetery of the activity of the young
# 7am5pm daily. & 8 evokes two centuries of revolutionaries. Eight of them
6 (with charge). Cuban history, past the tombs died during the attack, while
This monumental cemetery of such illustrious 19th-century 55 were taken prisoner,
(1868) is the second most figures as Jos Mart, Carlos tortured and executed.
important in Cuba after the Manuel de Cspedes, Emilio Since January 1959 the
Coln cemetery in Havana Bacard and the mother of barracks, which still bear
(see pp1045). It was Antonio Maceo, as well as the bullet holes, have housed the
originally laid out with a 20th-century revolutionaries of Ciudad Escolar 26 de Julio
Latin cross plan and divided the Movimiento 26 de Julio school. Part of the building
into courtyards, the most such as Frank Pas, who was houses the Museo Histrico
important of which were killed in 1957 (see p50). 26 de Julio, which in fact

The impressive faade of the former Moncada army barracks, now a school and museum
 S A N T I A G O D E C U B A 231

Plaza de la
Revolucin
In the northeastern
part of Santiago,
beyond the Moncada
barracks, is Plaza de
la Revolucin, a large,
rather soulless square
at a crossroads of
three major avenues.
The square is
dominated by a
vast monument
executed in the early
1990s by the Santiago
sculptor, Alberto
Lezcay, representing
General Maceo (see
p44) on horseback,
surrounded by 23
The monument to General Maceo in Plaza de la Revolucin stylized machetes.
Plaza de la Revolucin
illustrates the history of Cuba Plaza de Marte marks the start of the modern,
from the time of Columbus, East of Plaza Dolores is residential area of the city,
but devotes most space to the the third largest square in where the architecture shows
guerrilla war of the 1950s. Santiago, laid out in the 19th a marked Soviet influence.
There is a model reproducing century. It is of great historic
the attack on Moncada. There importance: for here capital Vista Alegre
are also possessions which punishment was meted out The Vista Alegre quarter
belonged to Fidel Castro, his both in the Colonial period has fine eclectic-style
brother Ral and Che Guevara and under General buildings constructed
when they were waging war Machado. At its centre is in the 1920s and 1930s.
in the Sierra Maestra. a 20-m (65-ft) column The quarter also has two
(1902) celebrating Cuban important institutions:
E Museo Abel Santamara independence. the Centro Africano
Cuadrado Parque Fernando Ortz, with
Histrico Abel Santamara P Bosque African masks, statues
Calle General Portuondo (Trinidad), de los Hroes The column in and musical instru-
esq. Ave de los Libertadores. East of the centre, Plaza de Marte ments on display, and
Tel (22) 624 119. # 9am5pm behind the un- the Casa del Caribe,
MonSat. & 8 ^ mistakable Hotel Santiago, which houses a historical
The Moncada barracks, lies a small, unobtrusive hill. archive, library, and centre
Saturnino Lora hospital and A white marble monument for conferences, workshops
law court buildings form was erected here in 1973 to and events (see p290). During
part of the Parque Histrico honour Che Guevara and the the Festival del Caribe, the
Abel Santamara. In the 1953 comrades-in-arms who died Casa del Caribe presents
raid, the former hospital was with him in Bolivia. Their examples of Yoruba, Congo
the target of a group of rebels names are engraved here. and voodoo rites.
led by Abel Santamara,
who was captured and
killed by the police after
the failed attempt.
The hospital now houses
a museum with documents
and photographs relating to
the trial of Fidel Castro and
the other rebels, which was
held a few days after the
attack on the barracks in
one of the rooms here.
Besides the photographs
illustrating the difficult social
and economic conditions in
Cuba during the 1950s, there
is the manuscript of Castros
landmark self-defence in
court, later entitled History
Will Absolve Me (see p149). Bosque de los Hroes, honouring Che Guevara and comrades
232 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Castillo del Morro t

At the entrance to the Bay of Santiago, 10 km

(6 miles) southwest of the city centre, stands an
imposing castle, declared a World Heritage site by
UNESCO in 1997. The Castillo del Morro combines
medieval elements with a modern sense of space,
adhering nonetheless to classical Renaissance principles
of geometric forms and symmetry. The fortress was A cannon, part of the old battery
designed in 1637 by engineer Giovan Battista Antonelli used to defend the bay
for the governor Pedro de la Roca, who wanted to
defend the city against pirate raids. Construction of
the citadel, large enough to house 400 soldiers, took
from 1638 to 1700. The Castillo was converted into In the casemates
a prison in 1775, becoming a fortress once again a display of prints
in 1898 during the wars of independence, when illustrates the
history of
the US fleet attacked the city. Santiagos forts.

Artillery
area

. View of the Bay

The parapets and lookouts on the
upper parts of the fortress were
used by the sentries to keep watch.
Visitors today can appreciate
the setting and enjoy a marvellous
view over the bay.

Underground passageways
link the various parts
of the castle. This one
leads to the artillery area.

The stone stairway

on the side of the castle facing
the sea is part of an open-air
network of steps leading
to the upper levels.

STAR SIGHTS
. View of the Bay
. Central Square Plataforma de la Punta
(morrillo, or bluff)

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2669 and p283
 E A S T E R N C U B A 233

Triangular Lunette VISITORS CHECKLIST

Built in 15901610 as the main
protection for the fortress Santiago de Cuba.
gate, this structure Carretera del Morro, km 7,5.
Road Map F4.
originally stood separately
Tel (22) 691 569.
from the castle. It was # 8am7pm daily.
later incorporated into &86
the main structure.

Drawbridge
This bridge passes over
a dry moat that runs
alongside the fortification
on the inland side. It is
well preserved, and still
has the original winch
which was used to raise
and lower the bridge.

Dry moat

. Central Square
This square, the nerve
centre of the castle, was
used as an area for
organizing daily activities.
The square provides access
to the chapel, barracks,
garrison and
underground rooms.

THE BAY OF SANTIAGO

About 8 km (5 miles) southwest of the centre of Santiago, at
the end of the Carretera Turstica (which, despite its name, is
a rather poorly maintained, traffic-filled road), is Marina Punta
Gorda. From here ferries cross
over to a small island in the
middle of the bay. This is Cayo
Granma, home to a picturesque
fishing village made up of
multicoloured huts and small
houses built on piles. This
Three separate main island is a peaceful place off
structures, built on five the beaten track, with only
different levels, form the one restaurant and abundant
skeleton of the castle. greenery a good place to
This unusual construction View of Cayo Granma from relax in and round off
is a result of the uneven the Carretera Turstica a visit to Santiago de Cuba.
terrain of the headland.
234 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Parque Baconao y

Lying between the Caribbean Sea and

the eastern fringes of the Sierra
Maestra, and straddling the provinces
of Santiago and Guantnamo, Parque
Baconao has been declared a biosphere
reserve by UNESCO. The largest and
most original amusement park in Cuba
(80,000 ha/197,600 acres) combines
mountains and beaches with old coffee
plantations and an unusual range of
attractions. The park was developed in
the 1980s thanks to the voluntary work
of students and labourers, and has been Gran Piedra
updated periodically. Today, visitors can This is an enormous monolith, from the
appreciate a wide range of cultural and top of which, at an altitude of 1,234m
outdoor activities and attractions, and (4,048 ft), you can even see Jamaica
there is plenty of hotel accommodation. and Haiti on clear days (see p236).

Jardn
The Cafetal La Botnico
Isabelica, the (Botanic
oldest coffee Garden)
plantation in the Siberia
province, has
La Isablica
been converted
into a museum
(see p236). Perseverancia

Tres Arroyos

Prado de las Esculturas

Abel Las Gusimas
This sculpture garden, Santamara
with 20 works by Cuban Damaiayabo
El Palenque
and foreign artists, was El Oasis
laid out in the late 1980s. Siboney Juragu

The display extends for
1 km (0.6 mile) and can
also be viewed by car. Museos y
Granjita Siboney
Exposiciones
(see p236) At the Oasis, a centre
de la Punta,
managed by artists, (see p237)
visitors can go horse
Playa Siboney is the favourite riding and watch
beach of the citizens of rodeo shows.
Santiago. Only 19 km (12 miles)
from town, it can be reached by
regular bus service.

KEY
Major road

Path

River

Recommended beach
Valle de la Prehistoria
Viewpoint
This childrens park features huge sculptures of
Ruins of old cafetales dinosaurs and there is also a Natural History Museum.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2669 and p283
 E A S T E R N C U B A 235

Laguna Baconao VISITORS CHECKLIST

At this lagoon boats
can be hired for trips Santiago de Cuba.
around the lagoon Road Map F4.
or up the Baconao Tours in the park
n Cubatur, Ave. Garzn e/ 3ra
river. There is a
y 4ta, Santiago de Cuba,
crocodile farm (22) 652 560 or (22) 687 010.
near the Casa de
Rolando restaurant
at the lakeside.

S I E R R A M A E S T R A
0 kilometres 3
S I
E R
Bac

Indio
R A 0 miles 3
ona

L A
R G
o

Kentucky A

San Jimy Mara del Pilar

Gran Sofa

S I E R R A D E L A G R A N P I E D R A

Exposicin
Sig Mesoamericana
ua Sigua (see p237)

BACONAO Jardn de Cactus
(Cactus Garden)

The sea bed in the area between

Playa del Indio and Playa Larga
is dotted with shipwrecks.
Acuario Baconao
This aquarium has a good
display of sharks, sea lions and
other fish. Above is the tunnel
from which the fish can be
seen at close range. There is a
pool where dolphins perform
a show three times a day.

Playa Daiquir
This small, quiet beach
behind the Daiquir Hotel
is where American troops
landed in 1898, during the
US occupation (see p44) .
236 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Exploring the Parque Baconao

It is possible to explore the park by
car or taxi in a day, although
accommodation is available. Heading east
from Santiago, along Avenida Ral Pujol,
you will pass the zoo (Parque Zoolgico),
The 1960 Maya
and, nearby, the Arbol de la Paz (Tree of
Cuba car, a
museum piece
Peace), a ceiba tree beneath which the
Spanish signed the surrender agreement
in 1898. The entrance to Parque Baconao is not far
beyond the confines of the city. Most of the attractions A strelitzia in flower at the Gran
are suitable for families and can be reached by car, but Piedra Jardn Botnico
the peak of the Gran Piedra and the easternmost
beaches are only accessible on foot. species of orchid and multi-
coloured strelitzias (flowers
more commonly known as
bird of paradise), a flight of
459 steps leads up to the top
of the Gran Piedra (1,234
m/4,048 ft asl). This gigantic,
25-m (82-ft) monolith rests on
the crater of an extinct volcano.
It is best to make the climb
in the morning, because the
afternoon can bring foggy
weather and you may not
see far into the distance.
However, on clear days the
view is simply superb: it
stretches from the mountains
to the coast, and even as
far as Haiti.
The spectacular view from the Gran Piedra
E Cafetal La Isabelica
P Granjita Siboney } Gran Piedra Carretera de la Gran Piedra km 14.
Carretera Siboney km 13,5. Jardn Botnico # daily. # daily. & 6 8
Tel (22) 399 168. &6 There are numerous old
# 9am1pm Mon, 9am4:45pm Heading west from Granjita coffee plantations around the
TueSun. & 8 6 (with charge). Siboney, you come to a turn- Gran Piedra, all of which
By the roadside 16 km (10 off to Gran Piedra: this 12-km were recently added to the
miles) east of Santiago, this (7-mile) road with hairpin World Heritage List by
is the farm rented by Abel bends provides one of the UNESCO. Almost all of the
Santamara in 1953 as a base best panoramas in Cuba and plantations are in ruins, but
of operations in the run-up to views of the intense green of one exception is the Cafetal
the assault on the Moncada the tropical and mountain La Isabelica, which can be
barracks. It was from here, on forests. Beyond the Jardn reached easily via a path from
26 July, that the young rebels Botnico, with its many the foot of the Gran Piedra.
drove into Santiago to launch
the attack. Their attempt
failed and Granjita Siboney
itself was later attacked by
Batistas men. The (recon-
structed) bullet holes can be
seen around the door.
Granjita Siboney is now a
museum with the uniforms
and some of the weapons that
the revolutionaries wore and
carried that day. Next door is
the Generacin del Centenario
gallery, with paintings
honouring the rebels who
died during the attack on the
barracks, as well as photo-
graphs, documents and the
car Castro used in the attack. Granjita Siboney farm, showing the signs of the July 1953 attack
 E A S T E R N C U B A 237

This plantation belonged to

Victor Constantin, a French
landowner who, together
with many others, fled from
Haiti in the late 1700s
following a slave uprising
there. He brought with him
numerous slaves and his
mistress, Isabel Mara,
after whom he named
his plantation.
The largest structure is the
manor house. The ground
floor was partly for the
labourers and partly used
to store tools and implements. Reproductions of pre-Columbian objects, Exposicin Mesoamericana
The first floor consists of a
bedroom, living room, Nearby are the kitchens, and archaeological finds. Of
dining room and studio, all behind which is the water particular interest is the Salon
with 18th-century furniture tank; the whole area is de Historia del Transporte
and furnishings. surrounded by coffee plants. Terrestre por Carretera, which
The house overlooks a Visitors to the cafetal houses a fascinating collection
terrace where coffee beans museum are offered a of 2,000-plus miniature cars
were left to dry actually the demonstration of how and an array of old vintage
roof of a large storehouse. coffee is grown and cars, including a local Maya
processed for consumption. Cuba a tiny, one-cylinder
The provincial authorities car. The oldest is a 1912
have approved a project to Model T Ford. There are
restore the Cafetal La also vehicles of historical
Isabelica, which will then significance, including cars
become the home of an that once belonged to Fidel
ethnographic museum. Castro and Benny Mor.

E Conjunto de Museos E Exposicin

y Exposiciones de la Punta Mesoamericana
Carretera de Baconao. Carretera de Baconao.
# daily. & 6 # daily. & 6
A cross between a museum This series of sea caves
and a trade fair, this collection along the road are showcases
of buildings contains displays for reproductions of Central
Interior of the Cafetal La Isabelica of all kinds of things from American pre-Columbian
owners manor house stamps and dolls to ceramics works of art.

THE ORIGINS OF COFFEE GROWING IN CUBA

Coffee was introduced to Cuba at the end of this figure had increased to four million,
the 18th century, by which time it had been a cultivated on 191 plantations. The French
fashionable drink among the European growers became very wealthy, building palatial
aristocracy and bourgeoisie for some time. The manor houses on their plantations. As the
French coffee growers who had fled to Eastern cultivation of coffee required plenty of manual
Cuba from Haiti in 1791 were well aware of labour, and there werent enough workers from
this: they were the ones who brought the new Haiti, there was a boom in the slave trade in
plant to the island. The hills around Santiago the early 19th century. Cuban archives mention
and the valleys 7,654 dead souls at the
between Baracoa and beginning of the centu-
Guantnamo were ry, and 42,000 in 1820.
ideal for coffee grow- While this immigration
ing, because they contributed to the eco-
offered both water nomic fortune of the
and shade. Coffee island, it proved to be
was an immediate the end of the land-
success, and demand owners. It was not long
increased so much that before the slaves,
it was planted along increasingly numerous
the coast too. In 1803 and organized, began to
there were 100,000 rebel against their
coffee trees; by 1807 Coffee growing beneath the trees in the mountains condition (see p42).
238 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Guantnamo u
Guantnamo. Road Map F4.
* 200,000. ~ @

If it were not for the US

naval base and the famous
song Guantanamera (girl
from Guantnamo), this town
would probably only be
known to Cubans and music
experts. Its name, in fact, is
linked with the changu, a
variation of son music that
developed in the coffee
plantations in the mountains,
music made famous by the
musician Helio Rev. The Parroquial de Santa Catalina de Riccis in the Parque Mart
Guantanamera was
composed by Joseto Provincial, which contains a except those who live there
Fernndez in the 1940s collection of documents, photo- and those with a special pass.
almost for fun, drawing graphs and objects related to There is a hotel in Caimanera
inspiration from a proud local the history of the province. (see p267) but you need a
girl who had not reacted to a permit to stay.
E Museo Provincial
compliment he paid her. de Guantnamo
The US naval base is not
Later, some literary verses Plaza Mart, esq. Prado. open to the public. However,
from the Versos Sencillos by Tel (21) 325 872. # 26pm Mon, it can be spied on from an
Jos Mart were adapted to 8amnoon & 26pm TueSat. unusual viewing point (mira-
the music. 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 dor), purpose built above an
The town of Guantnamo Dec. & 8 6 (with charge). existing military command post
was founded in 1796 to take by the Cuban authorities, who
in the French fleeing from now make the most of their
Haiti and developed during view over the base.
the 19th century. The capital To visit the Mirador Los
of a varied province where Malones, situated on a hill off
desert areas studded with the Baracoa road, about 15
cactus alternate with green miles (24 km) east of Guan-
mountains, Guantnamo has tnamo, make arrangements
few sights of note. A tour of either in Santiago, with the
the small historic centre is Gaviota tourist agency, or in
little more than a walk around Guantnamo, in the epony-
Parque Mart, dominated by mous hotel.
the Parroquial de Santa A stone gorilla in the Museo After passing the main gate
Catalina de Riccis (1868). Zoolgico de Piedra of the Cuban military zone,
Opposite the church is a visitors proceed for about 10
statue of General Pedro A Environs km (6 miles) through forests
Prez, sculpted in 1928. Around 20 km (12 miles) east of cacti before reaching the
An interesting Colonial build- of Guantnamo, on the road to mirador. Firstly, the tour goes
ing facing the square is the Lomas de Yateras, a coffee- into an underground museum,
old Spanish prison, now the growing area, is an unusual where a Cuban military attach
home of the modest Museo open-air museum, the Museo explains the reasons why Cuba
Zoolgico de Piedra. It was wants the US to give back this
founded by Angel Iigo, a territory. A detailed model of
farmer and self-taught sculptor. the base is also on view here.
Since 1978 he has produced Stairs or a lift then take visitors
sculptures of about 40 animals to the viewing point at the
in stone, including lions, boa top of the hill (where there is
constrictors, tapirs, buffaloes, also a small restaurant). A
rhinoceroses and gorillas. All telescope enables visitors to
are on display. have a good look at the base
At the mouth of Guan- and unusually within a
tnamo bay, some 20 km (12 military zone it is permitted
miles) south of the city are two to film and take photographs.
Cuban ports, Caimanera and
Boquern, both close to the E Museo Zoolgico de Piedra
US naval base. The former is Boquern de Yateras. # MonSat.
1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct,
Joseto Fernndez, composer of within a Cuban military zone 25 Dec. & 6
the song Guantanamera and is off-limits to everyone
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2669 and p283
 E A S T E R N C U B A 239

Costa Sur i THE AMERICAN NAVAL BASE

Guantnamo. Road Map F4. In 1903 the US the victors, together with the Cubans, in
the war against Spain obliged the Cuban Republic to
Travelling eastwards from accept the Platt Amendment (see p45), whereby the latter
Guantnamo, visitors will had to grant the US Navy the right to install a naval base in
pass through the most barren the bay of Guantnamo.The US was granted a lease of a
part of Cuba, where the minimum of 99 years in 1934. For this occupancy, the
climate is desert-like because American government pays $2,000 per year, though it is said
of the hot winds blowing that the Cuban government has regularly returned this sum
here. This is a unique area on to the US since 1959. In the past the situation has taken on
the island where cacti and the dramatic overtones of the Cold War and highlighted a
succulents are the main difficult state of co-existence. Inside the base, the menial
vegetation. The coast road, jobs are done by Puerto Ricans, the wives of the servicemen
tucked in between the do their shopping in supermarkets stocked with food flown
mountains and the blue sea, is in from the US, and there are two English-language radio
spectacular. The rocky coast stations and one TV station. The base, US territory in Cuba,
has tiny coves with pebble covers 110 sq km (43 sq miles), and has two runways for
beaches, home to an assort- military planes. The whole area is surrounded by 27 km
ment of seashells and Poly- (17 miles) of fence.
mita picta snails (see p245).

La Farola o
Guantnamo. Road Map F4.

Cajobabo a southern
coastal town where Jos
Mart and Mximo Gmez
landed to begin the 1895 war
against Spain marks the
beginning of La Farola, a Mirador Los Malones: a telescope looking over the American base
spectacular 49-km (30-mile)
road that wends its way
upwards over the mountains del Purial in order to create a incredible views of the peaks
to Baracoa, through vege- kind of flying highway. The of the Sierra Maestra, lush
tation that becomes more road acquired its name valleys, tropical forests, pine
and more luxuriant as the (farola means beacon) groves, banana plantations,
coast is left behind. because in some stretches it rivers, waterfalls and royal
Until 1959 Cajobabo could looks like a beam, suspended palm trees. The luxuriant
only be reached by ship. In in air. It is regarded as one of vegetation seems to swallow
order to connect it to the rest the great engineering feats of up the road in places. Along
of the island, in the 1960s recent Cuban history. the road, people sell local
engineers excavated sections This highway and the produce such as coffee, red
of mountainside in the Sierra periodic viewing points offer bananas and tangerines.

View from one of the observation points along La Farola road

242 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Baracoa p

The oldest city in Cuba lies at the far

eastern tip of the island. Its name in
the Arauaca language, spoken by the
former inhabitants of the area, means
the presence of the sea. Nuestra
Cocoa fruit, a
Seora de la Asuncin de Baracoa
local crop villa was founded on 15 August 1511,
on a curved bay that had been
discovered some 20 years earlier by Columbus, and
immediately became the political and ecclesiastical
capital of Cuba. However, this status was short-lived. In
The Cruz de la Parra, perhaps
1515, the city founder Diego Velzquez transferred his
brought to Cuba by Columbus
residence to Santiago, marking the beginning of a long
period of social and economic isolation for Baracoa. R Catedral de Nuestra
Seora de la Asuncin
Calle Maceo 152. Tel (21) 643 352.
# 9amnoon & 26pm Mon Sat,
9amnoon Sun. 5 7:30am TueWed,
5:30pm ThuFri, 8pm Sat, 10am Sun.
This modest church, built in
1512 and restored in 1833, is
most famous as the home of
the Cruz de la Parra, a
wooden cross that is said to
be the oldest symbol of
Christianity in the New World.
According to legend, the cross
was brought to Cuba by
Columbus on his first voyage
A street in Baracoa, dominated by lush vegetation to America, and on 1
December 1492 it was placed
Exploring Baracoa Parque Independencia on the spot where Baracoa
Baracoa means nature, the In the main square, over- was later founded. It is said
Cubans say, and it is certainly looked by the cathedral, is that the cross disappeared one
true: enclosed by tropical a famous bust of the Indian day and was then miraculously
forest and the sea, for four leader Hatuey (see p219). found under the climbing
centuries this town has Nearby are the Casa de la vine (parra) in a settlers
managed to live by fishing, Trova, the Fondo de Bienes garden, hence its name. The
cultivating cocoa, coconuts Culturales, which exhibits four tips of the cross are now
and bananas, and by gather- works by local painters, covered with metal sheets,
ing wood. While the isolation sculptors and craftsmen, and because in the past worship-
has created inconveniences, it the Casa de la Cultura, an pers used to pull off splinters
has also allowed the locals to eclectic building with Colonial and keep them as relics.
maintain their traditions and elements that hosts evening The cathedral is not always
preserve the ecosystem. performances and events. open, but if you want to see
The historic centre of At No. 123 Calle Maceo is the Cruz de la Parra and want
Baracoa is not Colonial, but a the Casa del Chocolate, information about it, or about
mixture of styles, with some which serves excellent hot the city in general, just ask
Neo-Classical and French chocolate. Baracoa cocoa is for the sacristan and he will
influences. Thick vegetation famous throughout Cuba. try to help you.
towers over the buildings
and has even invaded some
houses, many of which are
built of wood.
The best view of the town
is seen from the terrace of an
18th-century fortress on a hill
above the town: the Castillo
de Seboruco, now El Castillo
hotel (see p267). From here
you can see the roofs and the
bay of Baracoa, dominated to
the west by the rock of El
Yunque (see p244). A typical single-storey wooden house in Baracoa
The bay of Baracoa viewed from the Castillo de Seboruco
 E A S T E R N C U B A 243

E Fuerte Matachn VISITORS CHECKLIST El Malecn

(Museo Municipal) This is the seafront that
Calle Mart y Malecn. Tel (21) 642 connects the two 19th-century Guantnamo. Road Map F4.
122. # 8amnoon & 26pm daily. forts in Baracoa: Fuerte * 50,000. ~ 4 km (2 miles)
& 8 6 (with charge). Matachn, to the east, and west of town, (21) 645 376.
This small museum, which Fuerte de la Punta, to the @ Ave. Los Mrtires, esq. Mart,
provides an interesting west, now a restaurant. The (21) 643 880. n Cubatur, Calle
overview of local history, Malecn is ideal for a Maceo 149 esq. Pelayo Cuervo,
is housed in a military quiet stroll during the (21) 645 306. ( Sat.
fortress built during week. On Saturdays a
the Colonial period bustling food market
to defend the city is held here in the she became active in the 26
from pirates. (Piracy morning, and in the July Movement and
was particularly active evening the road is entertained Castro, Che and
in the 18th and prepared for the other revolutionaries.
19th centuries.) noche baracoesa, a The hotel foyer has photo-
The displays start Statue of lively folk festival graphs and relics belonging
with archaeological Columbus, Museo during which people to this eccentric figure, who
finds of the pre- Municipal garden eat, drink and dance was later immortalized by
Columbian era, and along the seafront. the novelist Alejo Carpentier
are followed by documents, (see p29) in his work The
maps, paintings and prints Hotel La Rusa Consecration of Spring.
related to Spanish domi- Halfway along the Malecn
nation, pirates, slaves and is Hotel La Rusa, a
the plantations. historic hotel that once
There is an interesting belonged to the Russian
natural history section with princess Magdalena
specimens on display, includ- Rowenskaya, who fled
ing the Polymita snails (see her country with her
p245). The museum is also a husband in 1917 after the
historical and geographical October Revolution.
research centre and fosters She eventually settled
initiatives to preserve and in Baracoa, where she
develop local culture. ended up opening a
Along the fort walls is a restaurant and
battery of cannons facing giving singing
seawards, and a small garden. lessons. Much later, The rundown exterior of the Hotel La Rusa

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2669 and p283
244 C U B A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

principalis) and the cagua-

rero hawk (Chondrohierax
wilsonii), as well as for the
smallest amphibian in the
world, the Sminthillus limba-
tus, less than 1 cm (0.4 inch)
long, and another very
ancient species, the almiqu
(Solenodon cubanus), a
mammal similar to a rat.

Ro Toa s
Road Map F4.

The valley fed by the Ro

Toa, Cubas biggest river, was
recently made a nature
reserve, the Parque Natural
Ro Toa. Still lacking in roads
The mountain of El Yunque, dominating the bay of Baracoa and facilities, this park is part
of a wide-ranging project to
El Yunque a square mountain that looks create refuges and camping
like an island in 1492. In fact, sites that will not interfere
Guantnamo. Road Map F4. he was referring to a similarly with the local ecosystems.
n Bur de Turismo, Hotel El Castillo, shaped rock at Bariay near Local farmers still use an
Baracoa, (21) 642 103. Gibara (see p214). old-fashioned craft to
The slopes of travel upstream
A limestone formation, 575 m the mountain, the cayuca, a flat
(1,885 ft) high, covered with which has been canoe of Indian
thick vegetation, El Yunque declared a bio- origin. From the
was a sacred site for the sphere reserve Going up the Ro Toa river, visitors
Tano Indians for many by UNESCO, are in a rowing boat can admire the
centuries. Later it became a home to botanical majestic Pico
natural landmark for naviga- rarities, including two Galn (974 m/3,200 ft) and
tors about to land at the port carnivorous plants and the great waterfalls that
of Baracoa. The Spanish Podocarpus, one of the oldest cascade into the river from
called it El Yunque (the plant species in the world, as steep cliffs. Enquire in
anvil) because of its well as an endemic palm tree, Baracoa if you are interested
unmistakable outline. The Coccothrinax yunquensis. in exploring the area.
outcrops shape has led to El Yunque is also the
local misapprehension that habitat for some endangered Environs
this was the rock that species of bird such as the Northwest of Baracoa, 21 km
Columbus described as a carpintero real (Campeophilus (12 miles) past the mouth of

Playa Maguan, one of the unspoilt beaches near Baracoa

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2669 and p283
 E A S T E R N C U B A 245

Ro Miel, flowing through virtually virgin tropical forest between Baracoa and Boca de Yumur

the Ro Toa, is Playa Maguan, Boca de Yumur d A short boat ride across the
the most beautiful beach in the Yumur river will take you
province, with dazzling white Road Map F4. to an enchanting beach.
sand. The beachs Indian name Another interesting trip is to
refers to the presence of a Around 30 km (18 miles) go upstream, where the river
nearby archaeological site. east of Baracoa, this course reaches an impressive
A 2-km (1-mile) coral reef lies village of bohos (traditional canyon with walls as much as
only 500 m (1,640 ft) from the dwellings with palm-leaf 180 m (590 ft) high.
shore. Be warned though that roofs) takes its name from the The Ro Yumur flows
the sea can often be rather Yumur river, which flows into through an area interesting
choppy in this area. the sea here. Its inhabitants for its ecology. Colourful
There is a modern holiday live by fishing, but earn a little tropical birdlife abounds,
village hidden among the extra by taking tourists on including the zunzn, the
coconut palms, where villas boat rides on the river (and tocororo and the cartacuba
can be rented, but this place by selling Polymita (see pp2021).
is still delightfully unspoilt. shells).
Environs
East of Boca de Yumur, also
POLYMITA SNAILS accessible from Cajobabo, is
A genus endemic to the tiny, isolated village of
the Baracoa area, the Mais and beyond is the
Polymita is a snail with a easternmost tip of Cuba,
brilliantly coloured shell. Patterned Punta Mais. On clear days
According to the colour, six Polymita shells it is possible to see as far as
species of Polymita can be Haiti from the headland. This
identified: P. picta, P. muscarum, P. sulphurosa, area has been turned into the
P. versicolor, P. venusta and P. brocheri. All these species Parque Natural Terrazas de
live on trees and plants, and feed on mushrooms and Mais and the building of further
lichens, contributing to the health of the plants, especially roads and facilities is planned.
coffee trees. Polymita snails can be easily recognized,
because the shell with coloured stripes looks as though it
has been painted, and stands out clearly against the bright
green vegetation. Legend has it that the snail acquired its
colours from a young Indian who had no pearls or jewels to
give to his beloved. He painted a snail shell with the yellow
of the sun, the green of the woods, the red of the flowers,
and the white from the foam of the waves. But when he
decided to take the blue from the sky, it was too late in the
day, and he had to be content with the black of night.
Today this snail, highly prized for its shell, is an endangered
species. Although selling or gathering Polymita is not illegal,
both locals and visitors are urged to leave them alone. Viewing Haiti from Punta Mais, at
the eastern-most tip of Cuba
TRAVELLERS
NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY 248269

WHERE TO EAT 270283
SHOPS AND MARKETS 284287
ENTERTAINMENT 288291
SPORTS AND OUTDOOR
ACTIVITIES 292295
248 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

WHERE TO STAY
ince 1980, when Cuba of accommodation, with

S decided to open its

frontiers to foreign
visitors, the growth in
choices ranging from
modern luxury hotels with
swimming pools and good
sports facilities to Colonial,
tourism has obliged the
government to invest city centre hotels and all-
heavily in the hotel indus- Carro de la Revolucin, inclusive holiday villages
try. Some of the old historic ceramic piece by Sosabravo (see o n s m a l l u n i n h a b i t e d
hotels have been restored p25) Habana Libre hotel, Havana islands. The cheapest hotels
and equipped with international stan- are still decidedly spartan and rarely
dards of comfort, and new infrastructure meet international standards. Since
has been created, often through joint 1996, Cubans have been allowed to let
ventures involving the Cuban Ministry out rooms in their own homes or even
of Tourism and foreign companies. entire apartments, an increasingly
Today, visitors can choose from a variety popular arrangement with tourists.

including several good-value

3-star hotels, such as the
Versalles in Santiago and the
Faro Luna in Cienfuegos.
The Sol Meli chain manages
the elegant Meli Cohiba in
Havana and the modern
Hotel Santiago in Santiago
de Cuba.
Gaviota, which specializes
in ecological tourism (see
p250), offers comfortable
accommodation in the main
coastal resorts, on the cayos
and in mountain areas.
Gaviota runs the only holiday
Airy hotel interior in Havana village at Cayo Saeta.
The hotels forming the
HOTEL CHAINS High standards are also Islazul chain are of a lower
guaranteed by the Cubanacn standard, but are still
Most visitors to Cuba come and Sol Meli chains, both of on an international level,
on package holidays and a which have built hotels offering basic levels of
number of hotel chains cater throughout Cuba. Cubanacn comfort at lower prices.
for this type of tourism. All manages good hotels of its Another quite different style
hotels are state-owned, own and others affiliated is offered by Habaguanex, a
although some are managed to international chains, Cuban company founded
by joint venture agencies. under the auspices of
One upmarket chain is the the Oficina del
Cuban Gran Caribe, whose Historiador de la Ciudad
hotels include the historic in Havana, which
Hotel Nacional in Havana (see restores old buildings in
p98), an architectural gem the Habana Vieja
built in 1930, the Hotel Plaza quarter, converting them
and the Hotel Inglaterra (see into shops, cafs and
pp812) in Havanas Parque hotels. Habaguanex
Central, and the elegant Casa hotels include historic
Granda in Santiago.Gran buildings such as the
Caribe also manages several Hostal Conde de
more modern hotels, such as Villanueva, a converted
the Habana Riviera in Havana 17th-century mansion;
and the Hotel Jagua in the new San Miguel; the
Cienfuegos, and well- Hotel Ambos Mundos, a
equipped residences in Hemingway favourite;
seaside resorts such as the and the Santa Isabel,
Hotel Internacional in in a splendid Colonial
Varadero and the Hotel The foyer in the Hotel Meli Cohiba, building facing the Plaza
Pelcano at Cayo Largo. Varadero, seen from the glass lift de Armas (see p67).
Interior of the historic Floridita bar-restaurant in Havana
 W H E R E T O S T AY 249

GRADING

Cuban hotels are classified

according to the international
star system, from one star
rising to five stars. However,
visitors are likely to find that
standards within a particular
star rating can vary
considerably. Some mid-range
hotels may have been good
quality in the 1950s, but have
since become rundown and
not brought into line with
modern needs. One-star The terrace at the Casa Granda hotel in the heart of Santiago de Cuba
hotels are generally to be
avoided; a better choice Whatever the star rating of a TIPPING
would be a private house. hotel, prices will be higher in
peak season, which runs from It is customary to leave a tip
Christmas to 1 April, and (propina) for the hotel staff at
from the beginning of July the end of your stay. The
to the end of August. amount of the propina is at
your discretion and will vary
BOOKING according to the type of hotel,
how long you stay and the type
It is best to book accom- and quality of service. It is,
modation well ahead of your however, useful to remember
visit through a travel agency that a tip in convertible pesos
in your home country to or euros may amount to the
ensure that you will get a equivalent of a months salary
room and date to your liking. in Cuban pesos (see p306).
Your tour operator may also A percentage of the tips is
be able to offer special often donated to charities.
package deals that are rarely The national fund for cancer
to be found in Cuba itself. research is one of the main
In high season, in particular causes to benefit in this way.
The Meli Cohiba in Havana, when there are special
a five-star luxury hotel events such as Carnival in HOLIDAY VILLAGES
Santiago, or one of the many
PRICES local and cultural festivals in These are ideal for people
Havana, it may be difficult to who want a relaxing, sunny
Hotel rates in the capital and find a room. holiday by the beach
in the more famous seaside Visitors taking part in trade or surrounded by unspoiled
resorts such as Cayo Largo, events such as the Convencin landscape, with comfortable
Varadero, Cayo Coco and del Turismo (Tourism Fair), rooms and all meals and
Playa Guardalavaca, are held in May, or the February facilities provided.
higher than in the rest of the Book Fair, will find there are All-inclusive packages offer
country and correspond more special pricing agreements a complete deal, with lodging
or less to international levels. with hotels in Havana. in bungalows or apartments
with bathroom, phone, air
conditioning and TV. The
price typically includes
breakfast, lunch and dinner
(usually buffet), and all drinks.
Plus, sports activities of all
kinds (sailing, snorkelling,
scuba diving, swimming,
surfing) are provided. Other
options include a snack bar
and pool bar; games rooms,
playgrounds and babysitting
services; freshwater pools for
children and adults; car rental
service; shops and beach
equipment. In some parts
of Cuba, these all-inclusive
holiday villages are the only
The pool and tennis courts at the Hotel Sol Palmeras in Varadero hotel option available.
250 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

SPECIALIST del Ro area and in the Sierra

HOLIDAYS del Rosario, near Marea del
Portillo (in the Sierra Maestra)
Many tour operators and Baracoa. Many centres
specializing in holi- also organize excursions,
days in Cuba also offer such as birdwatching trips.
specialist tours for There are also health farms,
those interested in a combining relaxation and
particular activity. medical or beauty treatments.
Many all-inclusive The modern, comfortable
resorts offer diving clinics and beauty centres
lessons for beginners, are run by well-trained staff.
but qualified divers Health provision for foreign
have a wider range of visitors is provided in
options. People plan- these centres by Servimed,
ning more advanced while accommodation is
diving need to provide organized by Cubanacn
proof of their qualifi- Turismo y Salud.
cations and must take The Gaviota and Islazul
out fully compre- chains also run a number of
hensive travel insur- spa hotels; two of these are
ance. Many operators the Kurhotel at Topes de
recommend that divers Collantes and the Hotel
The Hotel La Moka, in the Sierra del Rosario should be able to Elguea at Corralillo.
reserve, a favourite with eco-tourists demonstrate
a minimum of ten
CAMPING logged dives. Some dive
sites such as Mara La Gorda
Besides some very modest (see p146) and Isla de la
camping sites reserved for Juventud (see p150) require
Cubans, there are other sites skill and experience.
(campismos) run by Cubamar Keen divers can stay in
Viajes, located in or near hotels and tourist villages near
nature reserves and along dive sites or in some of the
the coast. Despite being marinas (particularly those
categorized as camping sites, belonging to the Marinas A cabin in pinewoods in
accommodation is in fact in Marlin chain). All-inclusive Las Terrazas village
bungalows (cabaas). The packages usually include the
sites also usually have a dives as well. DISABLED TRAVELLERS
restaurant and a pool. The best place to learn salsa
The quality of the cabaas is of course in Cuba, and Only the more recently built
varies, but they are usually UK-based Dance Holidays hotels have rooms purpose-
simple and clean. However, arranges all-inclusive holidays built for disabled people,
this type of accommodation with salsa tuition by expert including bathrooms with
does not suit everyone. These teachers and visits to the best wheelchair access.
camping sites often operate dance venues. Unfortunately, the majority
more like a holiday village, Conservation-conscious of Cuban hotels are not
with daytime and evening holidays in unspoiled land- equipped with such facilities.
recreational activities. scape are available from a Nonetheless, in general
Casual tent-pitching or few hotels that operate as hotel staff will do everything
sleeping out on beaches is ecological tourism centres. they can to be of help to
not permitted in Cuba. These are found in the Pinar disabled clients.

Accommodation in the Mara La Gorda holiday village, particularly popular with divers
 W H E R E T O S T AY 251

PRIVATE ROOMS

Renting rooms in private

homes (casas particulares) is
a good arrangement for
visitors who want to
experience everyday Cuban
life at first-hand and meet
local people. Hosts will
respect privacy, but you
should be prepared to become
involved in the familys
everyday life. It will help to
have a smattering of Spanish.
Besides single rooms, you
can also rent small apartments.
Sometimes you can even
find very comfortable living
quarters in historic buildings, Interior of a private home in Gibara, in Holgun province
particularly in old cities
like Trinidad. not allow someone you have When you take up your
The proverbial Cuban met casually on the street to room, the owners will
hospitality makes this type of take you to a private home, request a passport or some
accommodation particularly as he/she may simply be an identification, as they are
pleasant: after all, living in a unreliable hustler. These obliged by law to register
private home is the simplest people usually receive a your personal data with
and best way to feel part of commission of your room the Immigration Police.
the place. Another advantage rent from the owners, which The taxes paid for room
is that the home is added to the rental in the casas particu-
owners and their room price. lares are used by local
families can If you are authorities to build homes
provide ideas pleased with the for young couples.
about what to see, accommodation The amenities, cleanliness
where to eat and in a private home, and charm of these homes will
how to spend The sticker used for ask the owners of course vary and there are
the evening. casas particulares for recommended no cut-and-dried standards.
If you are licensed for rental addresses in other This type of accommodation
interested in this places that you is relatively new, and as yet
type of arrangement, it is intend to visit: this should there are no official lists
best to get addresses from provide some guarantee of of home owners offering
someone you know who has similar standards. Houses rooms. Some information
already done this. On the legally authorized to let out can be had by visiting:
whole, avoid taking advice rooms can be recognized by www.geocities.com/
from strangers above all, do the sticker on the door. Paris/Parc/6851/habana.htm.

DIRECTORY
HOTEL CHAINS Gran Caribe Sol Meli SPECIALIST
Calle 7 no. 4210, e/42 y Ave. 5 no. 2008, TOURISM
Cubanacn Miramar,
44, Miramar, Havana.
Hoteles Havana. Dance
Tel (7) 204 0575.
Calle 23 #156 e/n N y O, Tel (7) 204 0910. Holidays
Fax (7) 204 0238.
Vedado, Fax (7) 204 0912. Tel (01206) 577 000 (UK).
www.grancaribe.cu
Havana. www.solmeliacuba.com Fax (01206) 570 057 (UK).
Tel (7) 833 4090. Habaguanex
www.danceholidays.com
Fax (7) 834 4277. Calle Oficios 110, CAMPING
www.cubanacan.cu e/ Lamparilla y Servimed
Amargura, Havana. Cubamar Viajes Cubanacn
Gaviota Calle 3e/ 12y
Tel and Fax (7) 8609 761. Turismo
Edificio La Marina, Malcon,
www.habaguanex.com y Salud
Ave. del Puerto 102, Vedado,
Havana. Islazul Ave. 43 no. 1418,
Havana.
Tel (7) 866 6777. Tel (7) 8325 152 Tel (7) 833 2524 esq.18, Miramar,
Fax (7) 866 2780 or (7) 8320 571. or (7) 832 1116. Havana.
or (7) 866 1879. Fax (7) 833 3458 Fax (7) 831 2891. Tel (7) 204 4811.
www.gaviota-grupo.com www.islazul. cu www.cubamarviajes.cu Fax (7) 204 1630.
252 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

Choosing a Hotel PRICE CATEGORIES (IN CUBAN

CONVERTIBLE PESOS CUC$)

The hotels in this guide have been selected across a wide Standard double room per night, with
breakfast and all taxes included.
price range for their character, facilities and location. The \ Under 50 CUC$
prices at many establishments, particularly the national \\ 50100 CUC$
hotel chains and the big beach resort hotels, are subject \\\ 100150 CUC$
\\\\ 150200 CUC$
to frequent change. Entries are listed by region, beginning \\\\\ Over 200 CUC$
with Havana. For details of restaurants, see pages 27683.

HAVANA

HABANA VIEJA Casa de Amalia ez \

Prado 20, 7mo piso, e/ San Lzaro y Crcel Tel (7) 861 7824 Rooms 2 Map 4 D1
There are fantastic views out over the ocean and across to the lighthouse and fortress complex on the eastern side of
the bay from this seventh-floor flat. One of the guest rooms is very small, and the furnishings are quite basic, but the
hosts are attentive.

HABANA VIEJA Casa de Humberto Acosta z \

Compostela 611, 2do piso, e/ Sol y Luz Tel (7) 860 3264 Rooms 2 Map 4 E3
The Casa de Humberto Acostas large first-floor terrace is the highlight here, but the common rooms of the whole
house are a delight, with bags of colonial character. Conversely, the guest rooms are rather basic.
[email protected]

HABANA VIEJA Casa de Sergio y Miriam z \

Luz no.109, apto 5, e/ Inquisidor y San Ignacio Tel (7) 860 8192 Rooms 2 Map 4 F3
This is deep in southern Habana Vieja and provides an authentic taste of old town life away from the tour groups.
Both rooms here have two single beds (one with en suite bathroom), and both are a bit cramped but very clean.
Breakfast is charged at 4 CUC$ per person. [email protected]

HABANA VIEJA Chez Nous z \

Brasil (Teniente Rey) 115 esq. Cuba Tel (7) 862 6287 Rooms 2 Map 4 E3
An exceptional casa particular and one of the most distinctly furnished in the city. Theres genuine original colonial-
era furniture all over the high-ceilinged house and an extraordinary Romanesque bathroom. One of the rooms is on
the roof, accessed via a spiral staircase and, in contrast to the rest of the house, is very modern. Lots of comfort.

HABANA VIEJA Hostal Mesn de la Flota 0z \\

Mercaderes 257 e/ Amargura y Brasil (Teniente Rey) Tel (7) 863 3838 Fax (7) 862 9281 Rooms 5 Map 4 E2
The least expensive hotel in Habana Vieja and one of the most rustic with a distinct tavern character and a vague
Spanish theme. Dont expect any early nights here as the tapas restaurant has nightly flamenco performances with
amplified music. www.habaguanex.com

HABANA VIEJA Hostal Valencia 0z \\

Oficios 53 esq. Obrapa Tel (7) 867 1037 Fax (7) 860 5628 Rooms 14 Map 4 E2
Rural chic and rustic charm characterize this down-to-earth hostel. Theres an excellent paella restaurant whose
tables spill out from its intimate interior onto the central patio, rich in potted plants. All rooms are located up the
wide staircase on the first floor and are very comfortable. www.habaguanex.com

HABANA VIEJA Hotel Park View e0z \\

Coln 101 esq. Morro Tel (7) 861 3293 Fax (7) 863 6036 Rooms 55 Map 4 D2
The most modern of Habana Viejas recently renovated hotels, with a character distinct from all the others. The lobby
area with its small bar is smart and shiny but also down-to-earth with comfy cushioned armchairs. There are great
views from the seventh-floor restaurant and rooms are homely with curtains and small TVs. www.habaguanex.com

HABANA VIEJA Hostal del Tejadillo e0z \\\

Tejadillo 12 esq. San Ignacio Tel (7) 863 7283 Fax (7) 863 8830 Rooms 32 Map 4 E2
An intimate, refined hotel but the least distinct of the colonial conversions in Habana Vieja. The restaurant is very
small, though it spills onto a tiny, walled-in patio. Rooms are of the same high standard as all the hostels, and some
are gathered around a second patio brimming with potted plants. www.habaguanex.com

HABANA VIEJA Hostal Los Frailes e0z \\\

Brasil (Teniente Rey), e/ Oficios y Mercaderes Tel (7) 862 9383 Fax (7) 862 9718 Rooms 22 Map 4 F3
Something of a novelty hotel, the staff in this moody little place all dress as monks. This seems to have engendered
an appropriately subdued vibe. The communal areas, such as the lobby lounge with its low wood-raftered ceiling and
the intimate patio with a quietly flowing fountain, are deliberately dark and shady. www.habaguanex.com

Key to Symbols see back cover flap

 W H E R E T O S T AY 253

HABANA VIEJA Hotel Armadores de Santander e0z \\\

Luz esq. San Pedro Tel (7) 862 8000 Fax (7) 862 8080 Rooms 32 Map 4 F3
This is the only Habana Vieja hotel right on the harbour with views out across it from the first-floor restaurant. With
little else of note in the immediate vicinity it feels a touch isolated, but this is a good thing for those looking to avoid
the hustle and bustle surrounding most hotels in this neighbourhood. There is also a pool table. www.habaguanex.com

HABANA VIEJA Hotel Florida e0z \\\

Obispo esq. Cuba Tel (7) 862 4127 Fax (7) 862 4117 Rooms 25 Map 4 E2
A magnificent colonial conversion with an enchanting central patio surrounded by Neo-Classical stone arches and
pillars. The guest rooms are excellent very large and sumptuously furnished in a colonial style with wrought-iron beds.
The hotel is located on Habana Viejas busiest street, but once inside you barely feel it. www.habaguanex.com

HABANA VIEJA Hotel San Miguel e0z \\\

Cuba 52 esq. Pea Pobre Tel (7) 862 7656 Fax (7) 863 4088 Rooms 10 Map 4 E1
Set on a wide avenue with traffic passing by (as opposed to the narrow, historic streets characteristic of most of the
old towns hotels), there are great views from the rooftop bar of the fortifications across the bay. San Miguel is also
one of the few hotels in this area with a solarium. The guest rooms are large and comfy. www.habaguanex.com

HABANA VIEJA Hotel Ambos Mundos e0z \\\\

Obispo esq. Mercaderes Tel (7) 860 9530 Fax (7) 860 9532 Rooms 52 Map 4 E2
Hotel Ambos Mundos is famous for counting Ernest Hemingway among its guests. His room, still much as he left it,
is now a tourist attraction. The spacious lobby and its refined bar is a classic Habana Vieja hangout, as is the lovely
rooftop-garden restaurant and bar. The original cage-elevator is a great touch. www.habaguanex.com

HABANA VIEJA Hotel Palacio OFarrill e0z \\\\

Cuba 102-108 esq. Chacn Tel (7) 860 5080 Fax (7) 860 5083 Rooms 38 Map 4 E2
Another impressive colonial restoration, this stylish hotel is located on a street in a residential neighbourhood. Though
just a couple of blocks from the cathedral and close to the most touristy sections of the city, it feels strangely removed
from them. The highlight here is the jazz-club bar, where live music is performed at weekends. www.habaguanex.com

HABANA VIEJA Hotel Raquel e0 \\\\

Amargura esq. San Ignacio Tel (7) 860 8280 Fax (7) 860 8275 Rooms 25 Map 4 E2
The superbly stylish lobby with its ornate ceiling, marble pillars and stained-glass skylight roof, is a great place to sit
and read, drink and generally relax. Cordoned off in one corner is the citys only Jewish-themed restaurant. The
rooms upstairs, gathered around a set of interior balcony corridors, are really top-notch. www.habaguanex.com

HABANA VIEJA Hotel Santa Isabel e0z \\\\\

Baratillo 9 e/ Obispo y Narcisco Lpez Tel (7) 860 8201 Fax (7) 860 8391 Rooms 27 Map 4 F2
At the foot of the Plaza de Armas, this refined colonial building is larger than most hotels in Habana Vieja. It is a
shrine to high art, with Neo-Classical furniture and evocative paintings all around. The guest rooms really stand
out, their furnishings beautifully and authentically in keeping with this historic building. www.hotelsantaisabelcuba.com

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Casa de Miriam y Sina z \

Neptuno 521, e/ Campanario y Lealtad Tel (7) 878 4456 Rooms 2 Map 3 C2
A fabulous first-floor flat with a surprisingly large central patio full of rocking chairs. The two spacious rooms, one
with streetside balcony, are spotlessly clean and have top-drawer en suite bathrooms. The hosts are extremely
friendly and Sina speaks English, German and Italian. [email protected]

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Casa de Ricardo Morales z \

Campanario 363, apto 3, e/ San Miguel y San Rafael Tel (7) 866 8363 Rooms 1 Map 3 C3
A great option for those who want complete independence, since the owner is often out working and allows guests
the run of this entire first-floor flat. Tastefully furnished, neat and compact, the living room is particularly fetching, with
a little dining table, a large comfy sofa and artwork from Mexico. Theres also a balcony. [email protected]

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Hotel Lincoln e0z \

Virtudes 164 esq. Avenida de Italia (Galiano) Tel (7) 862 8061 Rooms 134 Map 3 C2
The cheapest hotel in Centro Habana, on the edge of one of the most residential and untouristy of the boroughs
neighbourhoods. The building itself dates from 1926 but the decor inside is pure 1970s kitsch, with flowered
curtains and garish three-piece suites in the lobby. Certainly not lacking in character. www.islazul.cu

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Hotel Caribbean e0z \\

Prado 164, e/ Coln y Refugio Tel (7) 860 8233, 860 8210 Fax (7) 860 9479 Rooms 35 Map 4 D2
A small hotel on the promenade section of the Prado, but with more of a backstreet flavour. Rooms are half the price
of what youd pay up the road on the Parque Central. Ask for a room facing the street as the others are quite dingy.
Internet access available. www.islazul.cu

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Hotetur Deauville e0Sz \\

Avenida de Italia (Galiano) esq. Malecn Tel (7) 866 8812 Fax (7) 866 8148 Rooms 144 Map 3 C2
A plain, unexceptional high-rise hotel but the only one in Centro Habana located on the Malecon, a fact which
enhances its appeal considerably, as does the small second-floor swimming pool. Theres a basement nightclub and a
standard issue restaurant. www.hotetur.com
254 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

VEDADO Hoteles C Presidente e0Sz \\\

Calzada 110 esq. Avenida de los Presidentes Tel (7) 838 1801 to 04 Fax (7) 833 3753 Rooms 158 Map 1 C1
Recently renovated, this classy hotel stands in its own secluded corner of residential Vedado, with a dashing,
gentlemanly look and feel. The marble-floored lobby is accented with elegant colonial furniture and antiques, and
the pool is flanked by balaustraded terraces. Comfortable rooms, many with ocean views. www.hotelesc.com

VEDADO Habana Libre Tryp e0Sz \\\\

Calle L e/ 23 y 25 Tel (7) 838 4011, 834 6100 Fax (7) 834 6365, 834 6177 Rooms 572 Map 2 F2
Life in this part of the city revolves around this swish hotel, a Havana landmark known as the Havana Hilton before the
Revolution. Its guest rooms are some of the largest in the city, many with unbeatable views. The small pool is on a first-floor
terrace, and there are several excellent restaurants, including the rooftop Sierra Maestra. www.hotelhabanalibre.com

VEDADO Hotel Nacional de Cuba e0Sz \\\\

Calle O esq. 21 Tel (7) 836 3564 Fax (7) 836 5054 Rooms 426 Map 2 F1
No other hotel presents regal elegance and grace on such a grand scale as the palatial Nacional, built in the 1930s. Among
the highlights are a swanky banquet-hall restaurant divided by arches, two more restaurants in the moody basement,
sweeping lawns on low cliffs above the Malecon and a nice garden-terrace bar. www.hotelnacionaldecuba.com

VEDADO Meli Cohiba e0Sz \\\\\

Avenida Paseo e/ 1ra y 3ra Tel (7) 833 3636 Fax (7) 834 4555 Rooms 462 Map 1 B2
Mela Cohiba is a sleek ultra-modern high-rise, a block from the seafront. One of the best equipped hotels in the city,
it has five restaurants, nine meeting rooms for business guests, squash courts, a jacuzzi and sauna and one of the
ritziest clubs in the city the Habana Caf. A large, two-part pool caps it all off. www.melia-cohiba.com

GREATER HAVANA (KOHLY PLAYA) Hotel Kohly e0Sz \\

Calle 49 esq. 36A Tel (7) 204 0240 to 42 Fax (7) 204 1733 Rooms 136
Less attractive but better equipped than its sister hotel, the Hotel El Bosque, this parkside building features a small
pool, a tennis court, a diminutive gym and a sauna. The enclosed, terraced pool has a relaxing aura of privacy and
you can wander directly into the wooded park from the hotel grounds. Bright rooms. www.gaviota-grupo.com

GREATER HAVANA (KOHLY-PLAYA) Hotel El Bosque e0z \\

Calle 28A e/ 49A y 49C Tel (7) 204 9232 to 35 Fax (7) 204 5637 Rooms 62
Perched just above the Parque Almendares, Havanas only archetypal big-city park, this location is pleasantly green and
suburban You dont get the kind of luxury found at many of Miramars hotels, but the more down-to-earth, intimate
vibe will better suit some tastes. Shares facilities with its neighbour, the Hotel Kohly. www.gaviota-grupo.com

GREATER HAVANA (MARINA HEMINGWAY) Hotel y Villas Marina Hemingway S z \\

Residencial Marina Hemingway, Calle 248 y 5ta Tel (7) 204 1150 to 55, 204 7628 Fax (7) 204 4379 Rooms 22
Few places in Cuba feel more like the opposite side of the Florida Straits than this international yachting community
and its small hotel district, made up of a variety of houses, villas and a three-storey main building with a huge pool.
The restaurant specializes in Italian food. [email protected]

GREATER HAVANA (MIRAMAR) Casa de Mauricio Alonso z \

Calle A no.312, apto 9, e/ Ave. 3ra y Ave. 5ta Tel (7) 203 7581 Rooms 1
Just over the river from Vedado, this casa particular is much closer to the livelier parts of the city than most
accommodations in Miramar. The spacious accommodation, in a penthouse apartment, is well equipped and there
are great views both of the city and of the ocean. [email protected]

GREATER HAVANA (MIRAMAR) Residencia Miramar z \

Avenida 7ma no.4403, e/ 44 y 46 Tel (7) 202 1075 Rooms 2

A delightful casa particular in a classic Miramar residence la 1950s suburban Miami. Room facilities include phone
and fridge, and the whole house is kept spotlessly clean. Theres a lovely patio garden and the hosts are very friendly,
with plenty of experience in the room-renting business. www.habanasol.com

GREATER HAVANA (MIRAMAR) Chateau Miramar e0Sz \\\

1ra y 62, Miramar Tel (7) 204 1951 to 57 Fax (7) 204 0224 Rooms 50
Right on the waterfront, this hotel looks like a cross between a castle and a multi-storey car park. Its aimed at the
business market and this shows in the shiny, well kept but essentially soulless environment here which pervades the
rooms as well as the restaurant and bars. www.hotelescubanacan.com

GREATER HAVANA (MIRAMAR) Occidental Miramar e0Sz \\\

5ta e/72 y 76 Tel (7) 204 3584 Fax (7) 204 8158 Rooms 427
This upmarket hotel looks a bit like a conference centre but has sports and activity facilities unrivalled in the city. Six
tennis courts, an indoor squash court, a fitness centre, sauna, jacuzzi and even tennis lessons on offer as well as
outdoor and indoor playgrounds for children. Generic but very comfortable rooms. www.occidental-hoteles.com

GREATER HAVANA (MIRAMAR) Meli Habana e0Sz \\\\\

3ra. e/ 76 y 80 Tel (7) 204 8500 Fax (7) 204 3902, 204 3905 Rooms 397
A swish, top-class business hotel in the heart of Miramars commercial district with a knockout lobby, a huge curving
corridor of polished floors, rising columns and an army of sofa suites. There are 12 meeting rooms and offices for
rent, plus 3 pools and 4 restaurants. www.solmeliacuba.com

Key to Price Guide see p252 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O S T AY 255

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Hotel Inglaterra e0z \\\

Prado 416 esq. San Rafael, Parque Central Tel (7) 860 8594 to 97 Fax (7) 860 8254 Rooms 83 Map 4 D2
A focal point for this part of Havana, the pavement-porch caf of this austere building, founded in 1875, is always
alive with chatter. The interior is a model of elegant austerity, particularly in the large restaurant with its columned
arches. Rooms vary in size but are all decorated with the restrained refinement. www.hotelinglaterracuba.com

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Hotel Plaza e0z \\\

Ignacio Agramonte 267 Tel (7) 860 8583 Fax (7) 860 8592 Rooms 188 Map 4 D2
This grand old hotel near the Parque Central has touches of grandeur, although the communal areas lack character.
The main restaurant is a kind of Neo-Classical cafeteria and the lobby is quite elegant but feels like a waiting room.
Theres a cheap pizza restaurant. www.gran-caribe.com

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Hotel Telgrafo e0z \\\

Prado 408 esq. Neptuno Tel (7) 861 1010 Fax (7) 861 4844 Rooms 63 Map 4 D2
Brought back from the dead at the start of the millenium, having originally opened in 1911, this newest of the
Parque Central hotels has combined modern and colonial-style architecture to great effect, particularly in the ground-
floor bar with its brick arches and in the top-floor glass ceiling. www.habaguanex.com

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Hotel Saratoga e0Sz \\\\

Prado 603 esq. Dragones Tel (7) 868 1000 Fax (7) 868 1002 Rooms 96 Map 4 D3
Outlandishly posh, with resplendently stylish interiors and jaw-dropping colonial details, this is the classiest hotel in this
part of the city. A rooftop pool, restaurant and bar, solarium and gym and rooms with DVD players, internet connection,
satellite tv and minibar reflect the levels of comfort all over this amazing hotel. www.hotel-saratoga.com

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Hotel Parque Central e0Sz \\\\\

Neptuno, e/ Prado y Zulueta, Parque Central Tel (7) 860 6627 Fax (7) 860 6630 Rooms 278 Map 4 D2
The least historically authentic of the old hotels on the Parque Central, but by far the best equipped and most
luxurious. Theres a swimming pool on the roof, a business centre and a gym, and the classy lobby bar is encircled by
a balaustraded interior balcony, all bathed in a warm glow from the skylight. www.nh-hotels.cu

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Hotel Sevilla e0Sz \\\\\

Trocadero 55, e/ Prado y Zulueta Tel (7) 860 8560 Fax (7) 860 8875 Rooms 178 Map 4 D2
Uniquely for this part of the city, Sevilla has a garden terrace outside the hotel itself, the site of its swimming pool. The
majestic building also possesses a spectacular top-floor restaurant serving up some of the fanciest cuisine in Havana.
Fitness centre, sauna and solarium. Very comfortable rooms, with mock colonial furniture. www.hotelsevillacuba.com

VEDADO Casa de Melida Jordn z \

Calle 25 no.1102, e/ 6 y 8 Tel (7) 8335219 Rooms 2 Map 1 C4

Surrounded by a wealth of plant life, this magnificent two-floor house has distinguished black railings on the exterior
and a gorgeous interior. Both guest rooms are very comfortable, with good beds. One even has its own separate
entrance for complete privacy.

VEDADO Casa de Mercedes Gonzlez ez \

Calle 21 no.360, apt. 2A, e/ G y H Tel (7) 8325846 Rooms 2 Map 2 E2

On the second floor of a 1950s building, this spacious apartment has two very well-equipped, large rooms with
fridge, tv and en suite bathrooms. The house has a library of books for guests to use, and a lovely terrace balcony
where you can sit and read. [email protected]

VEDADO Hotel Saint Johns e0Sz \\

Calle O e/ 23 y 25 Tel (7) 833 3740, 834 4187 Fax (7) 833 3561 Rooms 86 Map 2 F2
Theres always a buzz, day or night, outside Saint Johns, on one of the busiest corners in the city and sharing the
same space as a trendy jazz club. The restaurant has a slight canteen feel about it, though the food isnt bad. Theres
a simple cafeteria bar on the roof with great views along the seafront. www.gran-caribe.com

VEDADO Hotel Vedado e0Sz \\

Calle O 244 e/ 23 y 25 Tel (7) 836 4072 Rooms 203 Map 1 C1

Though a somewhat tired-looking tower block in the heart of Vedado, lacking in character, this is more affordable
than almost all the other hotels in the district, with a cosy, private pool area. A nice touch is the series of photos of
Havana landmarks and architecture spread around the hotel. Theres also a fitness centre. www.gran-caribe.com

VEDADO Hotel Victoria e0Sz \\

Calle 19 esq. M Tel (7) 8333510 Fax (7) 833 3109 Rooms 31 Map 1 C1
One of Vedados smallest hotels, the charming, unpretentious Hotel Victoria is the areas best lower-end option. The
communal areas are intimate and quite chic, with a handsome and cosy bar, wood-panelled restaurant room and a
miniature pool. Rooms are on the small side. Not far from restaurants and nightspots. www.hotelvictoriacuba.com

VEDADO Hotel Riviera e0Sz \\\

Avenida Paseo e/ Malecn y 1ra Tel (7) 836 4051 Fax (7) 833 3739, 834 4225 Rooms 352 Map 1 B2
A classic from the pre-Revolution years, this upmarket seafront high-rise hotel was once controlled by the US Mafia.
Theres a wealthy 1950s-chic look about the place, in the rooms and particularly in the Art Deco lobby. The pool is one of
the largest in urban Havana, and the Copa Room Cabaret is one of the citys most renowned. www.gran-caribe.com
256 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

GREATER HAVANA (PLAYAS DEL ESTE) Aparthotel Las Terrazas 0Sz \

Avenida de las Terrazas e/ 10 y Rotonda Tel (7) 797 1344 Fax (7) 797 1316 Rooms 247
Though there are three restaurants on site, the apartments are sufficiently equipped for self-caterers, with cookers
and fridges, and some with three bedrooms. Theres a grocery store but youll need to go further afield to buy
enough provisions for a proper meal. Large, split-level pool. www.islazul.cu

GREATER HAVANA (PLAYAS DEL ESTE) Mirador del Mar 0Sz \

Calle 11 e/ 1ra y 3ra Tel (7) 797 1354 to 55, 797 1284 Rooms 79
Spread around a hillside looking down onto the beach, this hotel neighbourhood is made up of houses of varying
sizes, some of them bungalows, some with first floor balcony terraces, some sleeping as many as five people. There
are two small pools, two restaurants, three bars and a modest nightclub. www.islazul.cu

GREATER HAVANA (PLAYAS DEL ESTE) Villa Mgano 0Sz \\

Km 22 1/2, Santa Mara del Mar, Habana del Este Tel (7) 797 1610 Fax (7) 797 1624 Rooms 103
Surrounded by a grassy field, this is a modest concrete-cabin complex with little that marks it out from the
competition. Theres a rectangular, medium-sized pool, a games room and a daily entertainment programme. Not all
the cabins have sea views. www.hotelescubanacan.com

GREATER HAVANA (PLAYAS DEL ESTE) Hotel Atlntico 0Sz \\\

Avenida de las Terrazas 21, Santa Mara del Mar Tel (7) 797 1085, 797 1532 Fax (7) 797 1263 Rooms 92
An old shell but a newer, renovated interior with upbeat colours make this one of the smarter hotels in the Playas del
Este, operating as an all-inclusive resort. There are two tennis courts, an entertainment programme which includes a
cabaret, a buffet restaurant and a pizza parlour. [email protected]

GREATER HAVANA (PLAYAS DEL ESTE) Villa Los Pinos 0Sz \\\\

Avenida de las Terrazas 21, Santa Maria del Mar Tel (7) 797 1361 Fax (7) 797 1263 Rooms 70
Here you will find roomy two- and three-bedroom houses, some with their own pool and all with their own kitchen
(including microwave ovens and all the usual mod cons) while one house even has its own squash court. This is the
most upmarket accommodation in this area, and is located on a good section of beach. www.villalospinos.com

GREATER HAVANA (SIBONEY, PLAYA) CIS La Pradera e0Sz \\\

230 e/ 15A y 17 Tel (7) 273 7467 to 84 Fax (7) 273 7202 Rooms 164
Set in the leafy outskirts of the city, the Centro Internacional de Salud de la Pradera is as much a health centre as a
hotel. From obesity and stress to MS, there is a huge variety of treatments on offer, with 17 rooms designed for
guests with disabilities. A games room, gym, sauna and beauty salon are among the facilities. www.cuba.cu/PRADERA

GREATER HAVANA (MIRAMAR) Comodoro e0Sz \\\

3ra y 84, Miramar Tel (7) 204 5551 Fax (7) 204 0319 Rooms 132 (plus 322 bungalows)
Featuring Havanas largest shopping mall and a series of pastel two-storey apartment buildings, this hotel has the feel
of a wealthy suburb. The grounds extend down to a tiny artificial beach on the otherwise rocky shoreline, with various
water sports facilities. The all-inclusive package includes daily bus service to the city centre. www.hotelescubanacan.com

WESTERN CUBA

CAYO LARGO DEL SUR Villa Marinera Cayo Largo del Sur 0Sz \\

Marina Cayo Largo del Sur, Isla de la Juventud Tel (45) 248 212 Fax (45) 248 213 Rooms 12
An attractive wood-cabin complex on a great patch of beach. The roomy cabins have porches and a natural feel
inside with wood-panelled walls and subtle furnishings. They all face the sea, just a few metres from the shore. The
small pool, simple restaurant and marina all enhance this lovely little complex, which is in tune with its surroundings.

CAYO LARGO DEL SUR Barcelo Cayo Largo 0Sz \\\

Cayo Largo del Sur, Archipilago de los Canarreos, Isla de la Juventud Tel (45) 248 080 Fax (45) 248 088 Rooms 306
The majestic lobby is vaguely reminiscent of Tony Montanas mansion lobby in the film Scarface, with staircases on
either side leading up to indoor balconies. From here a walkway lined with palms leads to one of the two pools.
Dotted around are paintings and sculptures by local artists. Rooms are gracefully decorated. www.barcelo.com

CAYO LARGO DEL SUR Hotel Isla del Sur 0Sz \\\\

Cayo Largo del Sur, Archipilago de los Canarreos, Isla de la Juventud Tel (45) 248 111 Fax (45) 248 160 Rooms 59
This is the reception building for four neighbouring complexes Isla del Sur, Villa Coral, Villa Soledad and Villa
Lindamar that share the same contact and booking details. Facilities at all hotels are open to guests, and include
tennis courts, swimming pools, and fitness facilities. www.cayolargodelsur.cu

CAYO LARGO DEL SUR Villa Coral 0Sz \\\\

Cayo Largo del Sur, Archipilago de los Canarreos, Isla de la Juventud Tel (45) 248 111 Fax (45) 248 160 Rooms 60
Part of the Isla del Sur complex (see above), this slightly rag-tag collection of garish pink blocks with minimal
landscaping doesnt really form a cohesive single complex, but the pool area provides a focus and is pleasantly
encircled by low trees. The round pool is small but has a swim-up bar. www.cayolargodelsur.cu

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 W H E R E T O S T AY 257

CAYO LARGO DEL SUR Villa Soledad z \\\\

Cayo Largo del Sur, Archipilago de los Canarreos, Isla de la Juventud Tel (45) 248 111 Fax (45) 248 160 Rooms 24
With no pool or restaurant its just as well that guests here have access to the facilities of all the other Isla del Sur
member hotels (see Hotel Isla del Sur) . The rooms, in brightly coloured bungalows and semi-detached houses, have tv
and mini-bar and each has its own porch or balcony. A good place for undisturbed tranquility. www.cayolargodelsur.cu

CAYO LARGO DEL SUR Hotel Sol Cayo Largo 0Sz \\\\\

Cayo Largo del Sur, Archipilago de los Canarreos, Isla de la Juventud Tel (45) 248 260 Fax (45) 248 265 Rooms 296
On a great stretch of beach and featuring a magnificent swimming pool, a well equipped fitness centre, a beach-
front restaurant and two other indoor restaurants. This hotel specializes in weddings and honeymoons, with lovely
romantic spaces like the gazebo overlooking the beach and the raised, poolside arbours. www.sol-cayolargo.com

CAYO LARGO DEL SUR Hotel Sol Pelcano 0Sz \\\\\

Cayo Largo del Sur, Archipilago de los Canarreos, Isla de la Juventud Tel (45) 248 333 Fax (45) 248 265 Rooms 304
Looking a bit like a Wild West village outpost (but painted pastel blue), this unusual luxury resort has slightly haggard,
sandy grounds and two- and three-storey concrete ranch-house buildings. Theres a ranchon beach eatery, an intimate
gourmet restaurant and a large buffet restaurant. The large pool has a fountain in the centre. www.sol-pelicano.com

CAYO LEVISA Hotel Cayo Levisa 0z \\

Carretera a Palma Rubia, La Palma, Pinar del Rio Tel (48) 756 501, (48) 756 505 Rooms 33
Hidden from the mainland behind the thick scrub that covers the low island (cay) on which it nestles, this offshore
cabin retreat cant be beaten for peace and tranquility. Watersports provide the only entertainment, with excursions
to more remote cays. Closed for rennovation due to 2008 hurricanes, phone to check. www.hotelcayolevisa-cuba.com

ISLA DE LA JUVENTUD Hotel Rancho del Tesoro 0z \

Carretera La Fe Km 2 1/2 Tel (46) 323 085, 323 035 Rooms 34

This is a very basic countryside hotel consisting of a box building with a three-storey turret tower and a simple
restaurant and bar. It is an unfussy, restful place to stay but dont expect to be pampered here. Guest rooms have
satellite tv and mini-bar.

ISLA DE LA JUVENTUD Villa Isla de la Juventud 0Sz \

Carretera La F Km 1 1/2 Tel (46) 321 739 Rooms 20

In a pleasant natural setting with a hilly backdrop, just outside Nueva Gerona, this place is popular with locals who
come from the town at weekends to use the medium-sized pool. Rooms, with tv, radio and mini-bar, have a 1970s
kitsch look about them and are all gathered around the pool. [email protected]

ISLA DE LA JUVENTUD Villa Marisol z \

Calle 24 no.5107, e/ 51 y 53, Nueva Gerona Tel (46) 322 502 Rooms 2
A few blocks from the centre of town on a leafy street with a hillside backdrop is this well-maintained casa particular.
Both rooms have small double beds and a simple, airy uncluttered feel. The shady terrace with its table and chairs is a
nice spot for relaxation, and the house as a whole has a laid-back, homely ambience.

ISLA DE LA JUVENTUD Villa Mas z \

Calle 41 no.4108, apto. 7, e/ 8 y 10, Nueva Gerona Tel (46) 323 544 Rooms 1
This casa particular in a dusty apartment complex away from the centre may not look like much from the outside but
the accommodation here is sprucely decorated and well equipped, featuring tv and fridge. Theres a homemade bar
on the inviting rooftop terrace.

ISLA DE LA JUVENTUD Hotel Colony 0Sz \\

Carretera Siganea Km 42 Tel (46) 398 282 Fax (46) 398 420 Rooms 24
The closest hotel to the beach on the Punta Francs peninsula, this modest coastal resort is aimed predominantly at scuba
divers (dive packages can be arranged from here). There are rooms in the original, rather plain 1950s building and slightly
better ones in the bungalows. The highlight is the bar and grill at the end of a long pier. [email protected]

LAS TERRAZAS Hotel La Moka 0Sz \\\

Las Terrazas, Autopista Nacional Habana-Pinar del Ro Km 51, Candelaria Tel (48) 578 600 Fax (48) 578 605 Rooms 31
Few hotels in Cuba are as harmonious with their environment as this superb hillside sanctum. Shrouded in woodland,
the graceful main building, with its outdoor corridors, has a lobby built around a large tree that rises through the roof.
Paths and staircases wind through the trees to the village below. Comfortable rooms. [email protected]

PENNSULA DE GUANAHACABIBES Hotel Mara La Gorda 0z \\

Mara La Gorda, Pennsula de Guanahacabibes, Pinar del Ro Tel (48) 778 131 Fax (48) 778 077 Rooms 55
A real end-of-the-line beach resort, this is Cubas most isolated mainland hotel. Rooms are in comfortable wood cabins
on the edge of a forest thicket or in concrete villas on the beach. Theres an excellent dive club for the world-class scuba
diving here. Buffet breakfast and dinner are included. The whole resort is cash only. www.gaviota-grupo.com

PINAR DEL RO CITY Casa de Maribel Prez Madera z \

Isabel Rubio 4 (bajos), e/ Mart y Adela Azcuy Tel (48) 753 217 Rooms 1
Located right in the heart of Pinar del Ro City is this freshly furnished, pocket-size ground-floor flat with one guest
room. It is clean, cosy and comfortable, with a homely atmosphere. Although basic and small, the flat has a snug
rather than cramped feel to it.
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PINAR DEL RO CITY Hotel Pinar del Ro e0Sz \

Mart y Final Tel (48) 755 070 to 74 Fax (48) 771 699 Rooms 149
Though much better equipped than the citys other hotel, this unattractive building is past its prime. Guest rooms are
small, and the furnishings are old-fashioned. It does, however, possess the only pool in Pinar del Ro and the best
nightclub in the city. www.islazul.cu

PINAR DEL RO CITY Hotel Vueltabajo 0z \\

Mart 103, esq. Rafael Morales Tel (48) 759 381 to 83 Rooms 39
Right in the centre of town, on the bustling main street, this recently renovated small-scale hotel is in a handsome
balconied two-storey building fronted by simple high arches. The lobby, bar and rooms are all smart, small and
refined but the restaurant lacks character and its food is unremarkable. www.islazul.cu

SAN DIEGO DE LOS BAOS Hotel Mirador 0Sz \

Calle 23 y Final, San Diego de los Baos, Los Palacios Tel/Fax (48) 778 338 Rooms 30
Tucked away in the corner of tiny San Diego de los Baos village, just over a river from dense woodlands, is this
picturesque two-storey hotel with canopied corridor balconies. It has well-tended terrace gardens with a pretty little
pool, complete with its own mini-bridge. The hotel offers health programmes at the spa across the road. www.islazul.cu

SOROA Villa Soroa 0Sz \\

Carretera de Soroa Km 8, San Cristbal Tel (48) 523 534, 523 556, 523 512 Rooms 49
Surrounded by looming hills in its own compact valley, this villa complex has a wonderful natural setting. With
modest facilities but a large pool, it is a real chillout spot and popular with package tourists. Theres a hilltop
restaurant nearby. The reasonably comfortable villas surround the pool. www.cubanacan.cu

VIALES Villa El Isleo z \

Carretera a Viales Km 26 Tel (48) 793 107 Rooms 2

The first house in the village on the road from Pinar del Ro, this very well-kept casa particular has a backyard with
great views of the Mogote hills. With tv and fridge and sparkling new bathrooms, these are among the most
comfortable guest rooms in Viales, especially the one in its own block out the back.

VIALES La Ermita 0Sz \\

Carretera La Ermita Km 1.5 Tel (48) 796 071, 796 100, 796 122 Fax (48) 796 069 Rooms 62
Up a small hill from the village, this neat and tidy cabin complex is the most relaxing place to stay in Viales. The
panoramic views of the valley can be enjoyed equally from the balcony restaurant, the pool, the well-trimmed lawns or
the rooms themselves in villas or in the graceful two-storey buildings with red-tile roofs. www.hotelescubanacan.com

VIALES Los Jazmines 0Sz \\

Carretera a Viales Km 23 Tel (48) 796 205, 796 123, 796 124 Fax (48) 796 215 Rooms 78
Most photos of Viales are taken from the lookout platform of this magnificently situated hotel. The main building is
a splendid 1950s pink neo-colonial provincial mansion, where the average-quality restaurant is housed, and there are
modern blocks housing the most comfortable rooms. www.hotelescubanacan.com

VIALES Rancho San Vicente 0Sz \\

Carretera Puerto Esperanza Km 33 Tel (48) 796 201, 796 221, 796 222, 796 111 Fax (48) 796 265 Rooms 54
Down in the valley, set on wooded, grassy slopes leading down to the quiet road, this wood-cabin refuge is a well-
priced option. The delightful cabins, in their natural setting, have porches and glass-panelled front walls. Theres also
a pretty pool and an arched restaurant building. www.hotelescubanacan.com

CENTRAL CUBA WEST

CAIBARIN Brisas del Mar 0Sz \

Carretera Playa final, Caibarin Tel (42) 351 699 Rooms 12

Brisas del Mar is a good budget alternative to the resorts on the nearby cays, and well placed for day trips. Right at
the end of town on a secluded little jut of land, this low-key hotel has rooms facing out to sea and its own small
patch of beach. Guest rooms are kept in good condition with the standard modern conveniences. www.islazul.cu

CAYO ENSENACHOS Royal Hideaway Ensenachos 0Sz \\\\\

Cayo Ensenachos, Villa Clara Tel (42) 350 300 Fax (42) 350 301 to 03 Rooms 506
This enormous resort is awesomely well equipped and its setting jaw-droppingly gorgeous. Split into three sections, the
Royal Suite area features garden villas on their own peninsula at the far end of the hotels two private beaches. State-of-
the-art spa, four restaurants, six bars and CD/DVD players in all rooms. www.royalhideawayensenachos.com

CAYO LAS BRUJAS Villa Las Brujas 0z \\

Cayo Las Brujas, Villa Clara Tel (42) 350 199 Rooms 24
The least expensive place to stay on Villa Claras north coast cays is hidden away at the end of a road cutting through
the island scrub. The comfortable cabin accommodation faces the sea, and theres a simple rustic restaurant next to
the beach in a circular wooden building where a spiral staircase leads to a viewing platform. www.gaviota-grupo.com

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 W H E R E T O S T AY 259

CAYO SANTA MARA Meli Cayo Santa Mara 0Sz \\\\\

Cayo Santa Mara, Villa Clara Tel (42) 350 500 Fax (42) 350 505 Rooms 358
Beautifully built into and around the cays dense vegetation, this high-class resort counts three swimming pools, an
amphitheatre, and Mediterranean, Italian and buffet restaurants among its extensive facilities. Guest rooms are
exquisitely furnished and quite homely, with balconies or terraces. www.solmeliacuba.com

CAYO SANTA MARA Sol Cayo Santa Mara 0Sz \\\\\

Cayo Santa Mara, Villa Clara Tel (42) 350 200 Fax (42) 350 205 Rooms 300
Of the three all-inclusive resorts on the cays, this is the smallest yet still boasts two tennis courts, a gym, three bars
and three restaurants. Standard double rooms in one- and two-storey villas are brightly furnished with ceiling fans,
satellite tv, mini-bar, hair dryer and breakfast table and chairs. www.solmeliacuba.com

CIENFUEGOS Casa de la Amistad \

Avenida 56 no.2927, e/ 29 y 31 Tel (43) 516 143 Rooms 2

Run by an old couple whose set of guestbooks attest to both their friendliness and the popularity of this eclectic old
house near the centre. A spiral staircase to the roof, a little bar installed in the entrance hall, stained-glass windows
and period furnishings makes this place a fascinating and enjoyable place to stay. [email protected]

CIENFUEGOS Casa de Luis y Odalys z \

Avenida 16 no.4702, e/ 47 y 49, Punta Gorde Tel (43) 515 864 Rooms 1
A couple of blocks from the baseball stadium in the laid-back, open-plan district of Punta Gorda, theres a shady
bijou backyard patio with tables and chairs just outside the dining room with its mounted deer head. The guest
rooms are large, with attractive built-in closets and en suite bathrooms.

CIENFUEGOS Casa Pieiro \

Calle 41 no.1402, e/ 14 y 16, Punta Gorda Tel (43) 513 808 Rooms 2
An enthusiastic cook and an astute host, Jorge Pieiro runs one of the best-known casas particulares in the city and
is a great source of information for visitors. The house has a spacious outside eating area with a banquet-length
picnic table and a built-in brick barbecue. Rooms are large and come equipped with tvs. www.casapineiro.com

CIENFUEGOS Palacio Azul 0z \

Calle 37 e/ 12 y 14, Punta Gorda Tel (43) 555 828 Rooms 7

Standing proudly on its own modest patch of bayside real estate, this pastel blue 1921 mansion has a down-to-earth
atmosphere and is a great place to stay if youre looking for character. The guest rooms are well equipped and very
spacious, some with bay views. The restaurant is only open for breakfast. www.hotelescubanacan.com

CIENFUEGOS Club Amigo Rancho Luna 0Sz \\

Carretera Rancho Luna Km 15 Tel (43) 548 012, 548 020, 548 026 Fax (43) 548131 Rooms 225
Hogging the only decent section of beach on this stretch of coastline, this patchy resort has a huge rectangular pool
and a family atmosphere. Scuba diving lessons are offered, as are various other watersports. The long buildings accom-
modating guest rooms have a weathered look; about half of them have sea views. www.hotelescubanacan.com

CIENFUEGOS Hotel Faro Luna 0Sz \\

Carretera de Pasacaballo Km 18 Tel (43) 548 030 Fax (43) 551 686 Rooms 46
A cosy little complex with a small main building and pool, and an attractive set of cabins lined up above and along
the rocky shore. This is a good place for divers, with an excellent dive-club on site as well as a dolphinarium, located
in a natural pool, a short walk away. Rooms are comfortable but nothing special. www.hotelescubanacan.com

CIENFUEGOS Hotel Unin e0Sz \\

Calle 31, esq. 54 Tel (43) 551 020 Fax (43) 551 685 Rooms 49
This 19th-century building has been wonderfully restored to its former Neo-Classical glory and is now the best hotel in
Cienfuegos. Luxury and style combine comfortably, so that the sleek glass elevator and the pool, which is intimately
enclosed within the hotel walls, blend in with the Old World decor and ambience. www.hotelescubanacan.com

CIENFUEGOS Hotel Jagua e0Sz \\\

Calle 37, e/ 0 y 2, Punta Gorda Tel (43) 551 003 Fax (43) 551 245 Rooms 149
With the most attractive setting in town, at the tip of the peninsula reaching out into the bay waters, is this
unremarkable block building containing a well-appointed four-star hotel. The interior is easier on the eye, with a light
and airy lobby, and a pool area looking out over the bay. www.gran-caribe.com

LAGO HANABANILLA Hotel Hanabanilla e0Sz \

Salto del Hanabanilla, Manicaragua, Villa Clara Tel (42) 208 550, 208 461 Fax (42) 203 506 Rooms 125
A hulk of a main building in a glorious natural setting in lush green hills and by the side of a large, twisting lake, this
hotel attracts a large number of fishing enthusiasts. It is well set up for making the most of what the lake has to offer,
with daily boat trips and water sports facilities. Rooms are basic and the rate does not include breakfast. www.islazul.cu

PENNSULA DE ZAPATA Hotel Playa Girn 0Sz \\

Playa Girn, Pennsula de Zapata, Matanzas Tel (45) 984 110 Rooms 123
The peninsulas largest resort is spread around a grassy patch of land. Guest rooms are housed in simple concrete
bungalows, some quite large, and are comfortable and reasonably well equipped. The beach here is somewhat
spoiled by a concrete wave-breaker, which obscures the view out to sea. www.hotelescubanacan.com
260 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

PENNSULA DE ZAPATA, MATANZAS Batey Don Pedro 0 \

Pennsula de Zapata, Matanzas Tel (45) 912 825, 913 224 Rooms 12
This rustic set of wooden lodges offers excellent value the most affordable on the peninsula, though the coast is a
20-minute drive away. The farmland setting is a bit rough and ready, but the lodges are spacious, comfortable and have
satellite tv, mini-bar, ceiling fans, porches and rocking chairs. Great place to relax. www.hotelescubanacan.com

PENNSULA DE ZAPATA. MATANZAS Guam 0Sz \

Laguna del Tesoro, Pennsula de Zapata, Matanzas Tel (45) 915 551 Rooms 44
Wonderfully isolated out on the huge Laguna del Tesoro lake on a series of interconnected little islands, this mini-
complex is modelled on a pre-Columbian Taino settlement. Guest rooms are housed in round, wooden lodges
hovering over the lake on stilts. www.hotelescubanacan.com

PENNSULA DE ZAPATA MATANZAS Hotel Playa Larga 0Sz \

Playa Larga, Pennsula de Zapata, Matanzas Tel (45) 987 294 Fax (45) 987 294 Rooms 60
At the foot of the bay and at the edge of the nature reserve, this is the best located hotel on the peninsula for those
wanting to combine scuba diving, bird watching and nature trailing. Accommodation is in bungalows facing the sea
on somewhat tired-looking landscaped grounds. www.hotelescubanacan.com

REMEDIOS Hotel Mascotte 0z \

Mximo Gmez 114, e/ P Margal y A del Rio, Plaza Mart Tel (42) 395 144 Fax (42) 395 327 Rooms 10
A plain yet refined and tastefully refurbished colonial period building, the towns only hotel is the focal point for most
visitors whether or not theyre staying here. Hotel Mascotte is a lovely, uncomplicated and comfortable place to stay
for a few days. Rooms have satellite tv and mini-bar. www.hotelescubanacan.com

SANTA CLARA Casa de Consuelo Ramos Rodrguez z \

Independencia 265, apto 1, e/ Pedro Estevez (Unin) y San Isidro Tel (42) 202 064 Rooms 2
This ground-floor flat looks small and ordinary from the outside, so the wide corridors and large double rooms come
as quite a surprise. The sizeable patio in the back garden is embellished with trees, shrubs and a green canopy shading
the benches. Theres a piano in the dining room, which is flanked by two more tiny patios. [email protected]

SANTA CLARA Casa de Martha Artiles Alemn z \

Martha Abreu 56 (altos), e/ Villuendas y Zayas Tel (42) 205 008 Rooms 4
A large first-floor flat with a half-colonial, half-modern look and feel. There are two three-piece suites in the cavernous,
pristinely furnished living room with its streetside balcony. A huge roof terrace with table and chairs provides
sweeping views of Santa Clara. Impressive rooms, one with leather couch, tv and video. [email protected]

SANTA CLARA Casa Mercy z \

Eduardo Machado (San Cristbal) 4, e/ Cuba y Coln Tel (42) 216 941 Rooms 2
Just one block from the central square, theres an unpretentious family vibe at this well-run house. Both rooms are
located upstairs, with their own terrace area overlooking the tiny central patio. Rooms have well-stocked mini-bars,
and one has a small balcony. Mercy is a fantastic cook and does everything with a smile. [email protected]

SANTA CLARA Florida Center z \

Maestra Nicolasa (Candelaria) 56, e/ Coln y Maceo Tel (42) 208 161 Rooms 2
This stunning house has an almost overwhelming number of notable features. The spellbinding central patio is a jungle
of potted plants, palms and bushes; the bedrooms are an original mix of Colonial-era and Art Deco furniture with
modern, spotless bathrooms; and the front room is crammed full of Colonial furniture and pictures. A unique option.

SANTA CLARA Santa Clara Libre e0z \

Parque Leoncio Vidal 6, e/ Trist y Padre Chao Tel (42) 207 548 Fax (42) 202 771 Rooms 143
An undistinguished high-rise hotel in a great location, right on the lively Parque Leoncio. Most rooms are small, but
many have fantastic panoramic views of the city. Theres a roof-top bar and nightclub, but the other communal areas
are unremarkable. This is the best budget option if you dont want to stay in a casa particular. www.islazul.cu

SANTA CLARA Hotel Los Caneyes 0Sz \\

Avenida los Eucaliptos y Circunvalacin Tel (42) 204 513, 218 140 Fax (42) 218 140 Rooms 96
Just beyond the southern outskirts of the city, a three-peso can ride from the centre, this hotel nestles in its own
woodlands and feels isolated and tranquil, though the peace is occasionally disturbed by the hotels entertainment
programme. Good buffet restaurant in a reconstructed traditional Taino circular lodge. www.hotelescubanacan.com

SANTA CLARA Villa La Granjita 0Sz \\

Carretera de Malezas Km 2.5 Tel (42) 218 190 Fax (42) 218 149 Rooms 71
A large ranch in the middle of farmland beyond the city limits, this wooden cabin complex has an organic feel, the
extensive grounds only partly landscaped, with a lot of it left in a natural state. The unusual accommodation units are
multi-sided, two-storey, matted-roof huts with satellite tv, minibar and balcony or terrace. www.hotelescubanacan.com

VARADERO Villa La Mar 0Sz \

Avenida 3ra, e/ 28 y 30 Tel (45) 614 515 Fax (45) 612 508 Rooms 264
This is the least expensive but certainly not the worst hotel in Varadero. Though its firmly rooted in the old school of
Cuban beach architecture, it has more soul than some of the alternatives elsewhere, thanks in part to its large
gardens. There is also a games room, two restaurants and a discoteque. www.islazul.cu

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 W H E R E T O S T AY 261

VARADERO Hotel Acuazul e0Sz \\

Avenida 1ra y 13 Tel (45) 667 132 Fax (45) 667 229 Rooms 78
Hotel Acuazul is an apartment block high-rise with little architectural merit, but lending great views to most rooms,
which are surprisingly spacious. Guest rooms come equipped with satellite tv, balcony and bath tub and have a
1970s look about them. The swimming pool is quite small. www.hotelacuazul.com

VARADERO Hotel Dos Mares 0z \\

Calle 53, esq. Avenida 1ra Tel (45) 612 702 Rooms 34
One of the most likeable budget options, this is not a classic beach-resort hotel at all. A pastel-yellow and white
building looking something like a large and expensive Meditteranean townhouse, the rooms here are on the small
side, but theres a cool and cosy sunken bar, just below street level. www.islazul.cu

VARADERO Hotel Herradura 0z \\

Avenida de Playa, e/ 35 y 36 Tel (45) 613 703 Fax (45) 667 496 Rooms 75
A semi-circular building that couldnt be any closer to the beach, with steps down from the terrace area leading
virtually into the ocean. Guest rooms come in twos, and each pair shares a communal living room and blacony, all of
which face the sea. The hotel restaurant is not recommended. www.islazul.cu

VARADERO Hotel Ledo 0z \\

Avenida de Playa y 43 Tel (45) 613 206 Rooms 19

Just across the road from the beach, this is a miniscule hotel by Varadero standards, but its small size lends it an
endearing cuteness. Hotel Ledo is a good option if you like peace and quiet at budget prices, but dont expect
anything more than the bare minimum of facilities.

VARADERO Hotel Mar Del Sur 0Sz \\

Avenida 3ra y 30 Tel (45) 612 246 Fax (45) 667 881 Rooms 366
Closer to the main road than to the beach, this dated-looking complex has a reasonable set of facilities for the price
and, unlike most hotels, receives as many Cuban visitors as foreign tourists. The gardens linking it all together help to
soften the look of the clumsily designed concrete blocks. www.islazul.cu

VARADERO Hotel Pullman 0z \\

Avenida 1ra, e/ 49 y 50 Tel (45) 612 702 Rooms 16

Sister hotel of the Hotel Dos Mares (see above) and of a similar down-to-earth character with more of a town than a
beach feel. A single castle-like turret gives it a toytown look, and theres a simple garden terrace around which the
rooms are located. Its worth paying the extra 10 CUC$ for one of the larger rooms with a balcony. www.islazul.cu

VARADERO Hotel Varazul e0Sz \\

Avenida 1ra y 13 Tel (45) 667 132 Fax (45) 667 229 Rooms 69
Guests here have access to all the facilities at the Acuazul next door, including the pool. Like its neighbour, this is a
high-rise hotel with little charm but its apartments have large guest rooms with balconies and are set up for self-
catering. Fourteen of the rooms are available for long stays. www.islazul.cu

VARADERO Villa Sotavento z \\

Avenida 1ra y 13 Tel (45) 667 132 Fax (45) 667 229 Rooms 36
Blending into the local neighbourhood, Villa Sotavento consists of a variety of different houses, no different in
outward appearance to local domestic residences, split into two or three units each and spread around a five- or six-
block area. Guests have access to the facilities at the Hotel Acuazul (see above). www.islazul.cu

VARADERO Club Amigo Tropical 0Sz \\\

Avenida 1ra, e/ 21 y 22 Tel (45) 613 915 Rooms 173

One of the better-looking and better-equipped town hotels, Club Amigo Tropical is arranged in a u-shaped four-
storey building on the beach side of the peninsula. This mid-range hotel offers two restaurants, a daily entertainment
programme, a bar and snack bar plus a medium-sized pool. www.hotelescubanacan.com

VARADERO Cuatro Palmas 0Sz \\\

Avenida 1ra, e/ 60 y 64 Tel (45) 667 040 Fax (45) 667 208 Rooms 312
A town hotel with optional all-inclusive plans, bridging the gap between the mega resorts up the road and the
budget hotels down the other way. Facilities are good, with a gym and sauna, a large buffet restaurant and a more
intimate Cuban cuisine restaurant. www.accorhotels.com

VARADERO Hotel Los Delfines 0Sz \\\

Avenida 1ra, e/ 38 y 39 Tel (45) 667 720 Fax (45) 667 727 Rooms 103
One of the only all-inclusives in the town section of Varadero, this is made up of a set of modern apartment blocks.
The compact landscaped grounds and small circular pool are modest by the standards of all-inclusives on the peninsula,
but this is one of the few places you can get the all-in treatment without being completely isolated. www.islazul.cu

VARADERO Hotetur Sun Beach e0Sz \\\

Calle 17, e/ Avenida 1ra y Avenida 3ra Tel (45) 667 490 Fax (45) 614 994 Rooms 272
Two towering blocks, dominating the immediate surroundings, make up this hotel. Among the several high-rise
hotels in this part of town, Hotetur Sun Beach has by far the best set of facilities and the largest communal areas,
though there are more attractive alternatives in the same price category. www.hotetur.com
262 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

VARADERO Club Kawama 0Sz \\\\

Avenida Kawama, e/ 0 y 1 Tel (45) 614 416 to 20 Fax (45) 667 334 Rooms 336
Hugging a long stretch of beach, this is one of the more interesting all-inclusives, thanks to the grey stone, fort-like
buildings which were the original resort buildings. Its in one of these that a marvellous basement restaurant-cabaret is
housed. In a separate section of the complex, along the beach, are newer holiday mansions. www.gran-caribe.com

VARADERO Hotel Barlovento 0Sz \\\\

Avenida 1ra, e/ 10 y 12 Tel (45) 667 140 Fax (45) 667 218 Rooms 296
This smart and stylish (though relatively small) all-inclusive is framed around pseudo-colonial architecture that under-
went refurbishment in late 2006. It lies within walking distance of the western end of the town and a number of
local restaurants. Rooms have a balcony or terrace, kitchenettes and all the usual gadgets. www.gran-caribe.com

VARADERO Palma Real e0Sz \\\\

Avenida 3rd y 64 Tel (45) 614 555 Fax (45) 614 550 Rooms 466
Only a couple of blocks from the beach but backing onto the main road of Varadero, the location of Palma Real is not
as good as that of the other upmarket area hotels. It has two large pools, and rooms are of a good standard, though
many are in an older but freshly painted building that predates the rest of the complex. www.hotetur.com

VARADERO Puntarena e0Sz \\\\

Avenida Kawama y Final Tel (45) 667 125, 667 667, 667 129 Fax (45) 667 074 Rooms 255
At the western extreme of the peninsula, lying between the ocean and the Laguna de Paso Malo, the two nine-storey
buildings that form the corner pieces of this compact resort offer views stretching up almost the entire length of the
peninsula. Basketball, minigolf and of course watersports are among the activities available. www.gran-caribe.com

VARADERO Villa Cuba e0Sz \\\\

Avenida Las Amricas Km 3 Tel (45) 668 280 Fax (45) 668 282 Rooms 365
The multi-level lobby area, a network of platforms and staircases with a bar at the halfway point, is one of the most
captivating hotel interiors in Varadero. From here the grounds stretch down to the beach and feature small groups of
villas, each with their own little pools. Two restaurants, a gym, sauna and jacuzzi. www.gran-caribe.com

VARADERO Arenas Blancas e0Sz \\\\\

Calle 64, e/ Avenida 1ra y Autopista del Sur Tel (45) 614 450 Fax (45) 614 490 Rooms 358
A family all-inclusive at the very top of the town, Arenas Blancas is the most luxurious hotel in town. The huge main
building is otherwise unremarkable but the pool is one of the largest in Varadero, snaking its way around a large part
of the landscaped gardens. The guest rooms are very large, with all modern conveniences. www.gran-caribe.com

VARADERO Barcelo Solymar Beach Resort e0Sz \\\\\

Avenida Las Amricas Km 3 Tel (45) 614 499 Fax (45) 668 791 Rooms 525
This bright and colourful all-inclusive is within walking distance of the eastern end of the town. It packs a whole host
of facilities into an area smaller than many of the mega resorts further along the peninsula. On-site are five
restaurants, six bars, two pools, two tennis courts, a gym and a childrens playground. www.barcelosolymar.com

VARADERO Mansin Xanad 0z \\\\\

Autopista del Sur Km 8.5 Tel (45) 667 388 Fax (45) 668 481 Rooms 6
This unique hotel is housed in the millionaire mansion that belonged to the Dupont Family before they abandoned it
with the Revolution (see p163). The guest rooms are huge, the restaurant is one of Varaderos finest and there are
special deals for guests using the golf course next door. [email protected]

VARADERO Meli Las Americas e0Sz \\\\\

Autopista del Sur Km 7 Tel (45) 667 600 Fax (45) 667 625 Rooms 336
Run in conjunction with the golf course that stretches out either side of this superb hotel, Meli Las Americas is one
of the few all-inclusives where most of the rooms are in the main building and the area occupied by the complex is
comparatively small. The gardens are fabulous, with undulating paths up to the split-level pool. www.solmeliacuba.com

VARADERO Meli Paradisus Varadero 0Sz \\\\\

Punta Francs Tel (45) 668 700 Fax (45) 668 705 Rooms 429
An ultra all-inclusive in the parlance of the Meli chain that run this staggeringly extensive and expensive complex, with
no less than eight restaurants as well as two pools, tennis courts, gym, sauna, and jacuzzi. f you want your own pool,
sauna and jacuzzi you can pay the extra for the Garden Villa, which also comes with a butler. www.solmeliacuba.com

VARADERO Meli Cohiba Varadero e0Sz \\\\\

Autopista del Sur Km 7 Tel (45) 667 013 Fax (45) 667 012 Rooms 490
This sumptuous shrine to holiday architecture has an unforgettable lobby patio, with hanging vines dropping down
six storeys of balconies to encircle a little maze of waterways and plantlife. One of its four restaurants is located on a
small clifftop with waves lapping down below. www.solmeliacuba.com

VARADERO Riu Las Morlas e0Sz \\\\\

Avenida Las Amricas y A, Reparto La Torre Tel (45) 667 230 Fax (45) 667 215 Rooms 148
One of the most intimate all-inclusives, here almost everything is on a smaller scale, lending Las Morlas an endearing
appeal. The pool (more of an artificial stream forming a figure of 8) is enclosed by the semi-circular main building,
making the main outdoor area feel something like a secret hideaway. Guest rooms are also small. www.riu.com

Key to Price Guide see p252 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O S T AY 263

VARADERO Sandals Royal Hicacos Resort and Spa 0Sz \\\\\

Carretera de las Morlas Km 15 Tel (45) 668 844 Fax (45) 668 851 Rooms 404
On one of the most secluded sections of the peninsula, this resplendent resort has some of the best rooms in Varadero,
each with a king-size bed, a living room and bacony or patio all decked out in gentle colours. The impressive facilities
include squash courts, a fitness centre, a mini basketball court and three tennis courts. www.sandalshicacos.com

VARADERO Sol Palmeras e0Sz \\\\\

Autopista del Sur Km 8 Tel (45) 667 009 Fax (45) 667 008 Rooms 407 (plus 200 bungalows)
Dense in plantlife and trees, the grounds around the pool and the various sports courts invite exploration, with paths
weaving around the vegetation from the main four-storey building. There are different types of rooms, with standard
doubles in the large main building, and over a hundred bungalows and four grades of suites. www.solmeliacuba.com

VARADERO Sol Sirenas Coral e0Sz \\\\\

Avenida Las Amricas y K, Reparto La Torre Tel (45) 668 070 Fax (45) 668 075 Rooms 660
Sol Sirenas Coral was once two separate resorts, and there are two distinctly different sections that feel quite remote
from one another (one in need of an injection of life and colour). It also means there are twice the number of
facilities as at most comparable hotels, including three swimming pools. www.solmeliacuba.com

VARADERO SuperClubs Breezes Varadero e0Sz \\\\\

Avenida Las Amricas Km 3 Tel (45) 667 030 Fax (45) 667 005 Rooms 265
At this over-18s only resort all rooms are suites, with a high level of comfort and lots of space. The usual amenities
(plus CD players, irons and ironing boards) come as standard in all suites, while those in the eleven two-storey
buildings have separate living rooms. Extensive grounds, fitness centre and three restaurants. www.superclubs.org

VARADERO Tryp Pennsula Varadero e0Sz \\\\\

Punta Hicacos Tel (45) 668 800 Fax (45) 668 805, 668 808 Rooms 591
The top choice for families, this massive resort has a fabulous kids zone with its own pool that features a little castle
on an island, and various other facilities for the under 12s. The standard double rooms would be considered suites in
most hotels, with walk-in closets, couch and coffee table, as well as Internet access. www.solmeliacuba.com

CENTRAL CUBA EAST

CAMAGEY Casa de Alfredo Castillo z \

Cisnero 124 esq. Ral Lamar Tel (32) 297 436 Rooms 2
A few blocks away from the centre, this is one of the citys more modern casa particulares with two spacious rooms
offering an above-average level of comfort within the private home market. Casa de Alfredo Castillo is astutely well
run, and the owners speak English and French. [email protected]

CAMAGEY Casa Lucy z \

Alegra 23, e/ Ignacio Agramonte y Montera Tel (32) 283 701 Rooms 2
This reassuringly clean house has a delightful patio garden with a fountain, seven bird cages and even a liitle bar
counter. The rooms are large, one of them actually more of a mini-apartment with a living room and cooking
facilities. Good food here, too.

CAMAGEY Hotel Coln 0z \

Repblica 472 e/ San Jos y San Martn Tel (32) 283 346, 251 520, 254 878 Fax (32) 254 878 Rooms 47
This medium-sized town hotel is in a beautifully restored 1920s gem of a building. The majestic lobby, with its shiny
dark wood, marble and tiled surfaces, is a highlight and sets the tone for the rest of the classy interior spaces, including
a lovely central patio and bedrooms which are a bit small ask for one of the matrimonial rooms. www.islazul.cu

CAMAGEY Hotel Plaza e0z \

Van Horne 1, Camagey Tel (32) 282 457, 282 413, 282 435 Rooms 67
The oldest and least refined of Camageys three neo-colonial hotels, this is still a smart-looking place and certainly
doesnt lack character. Guest rooms vary considerably in size and are located either around the central patio or
looking onto the street outside. There are two bars in the lobby and a stylish restaurant. www.islazul.cu

CAMAGEY Gran Hotel e0Sz \\

Maceo 67 e/ Ignacio Agramonte y General Gmez Tel (32) 292 093, 292 094 Fax (32) 293 933 Rooms 72
Built in 1939, this is a real classic and has maintained the look and feel of refined decadence that would have
characterized it prior to the Revolution. Theres a rooftop bar and top-floor restaurant, both with great views, and a
dimly atmospheric piano bar. Throughout the building are hallmarks of this marvellous hotels vintage. www.islazul.cu

CAYO COCO Villa Gaviota 0Sz \\\

Jardines del Rey, Cayo Coco, Ciego de vila Tel (33) 302 180 Fax (33) 302 192 Rooms 48
On a different scale to the majority of the hotels in the Jardines del Rey cays, this down-to-earth little resort provides a
pleasant, affordable alternative to the all-inclusives. Wooden communal buildings and one- and two-storey chalets sit
nicely with the informal atmosphere. Small pool, gym and beauty parlour. Good for couples. www.gaviota-grupo.com
264 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

CAYO COCO Hotel Blau Colonial 0Sz \\\\\

Jardines del Rey, Cayo Coco, Ciego de vila Tel (33) 301311 Fax (33) 301384 Rooms 286
Following a thorough renovation, this distinctive all-inclusive reopened in 2005. The arch-laden main building is
modelled on classic colonial Cuban architecture and centres around a beguiling garden patio. The elegant rooms
feature wrought-iron beds and refined wooden furniture in keeping with the colonial theme. www.blau-hotels.com

CAYO COCO Hotel Playa Coco e0Sz \\\\\

Jardines del Rey, Cayo Coco, Ciego de vila Tel (33) 302 250 Fax (33) 302 255 Rooms 307
Not as impressive as other resorts on Cayo Coco, the colonial theme here could have been taken much further.
Nevertheless there are three pools, two jacuzzis (one large enough for 20 people), numerous sporting facilities and
Japanese and Italian restaurants. www.gaviota-grupo.com

CAYO COCO Meli Cayo Coco 0Sz \\\\\

Jardines del Rey, Cayo Coco, Ciego de vila Tel (33) 301 180 Fax (33) 301 195 Rooms 250
This exceptional all-inclusive resort, aimed at couples (over 18s only), goes for quality over quantity with its facilities.
Most outstanding are the 62 rooms suspended over a saltwater lagoon on stilts. Three excellent restaurants include
the airy Arena Real, perched just over the waters edge with serene views. [email protected]

CAYO COCO NH Krystal Laguna Villas Resort 0Sz \\\\\

Jardines del Rey, Cayo Coco, Ciego de vila Tel (33) 301 470, 301 070 Fax (33) 301 498 Rooms 690
An imaginatively designed jumbo resort, the most remarkable feature of which is the set of cabins built on a natural
lagoon. Linked together by wooden gangways, these are top-notch accommodations with living rooms and balconies.
Seven restaurants, four pools and three tennis courts are among a huge number of other facilities. www.nh-hotels.com

CAYO COCO Sol Cayo Coco 0Sz \\\\\

Jardines del Rey, Cayo Coco, Ciego de vila Tel (33) 301 219, 301 036 Fax (33) 301285 Rooms 270
The most family-oriented resort on Coyo Coco has all sorts of facilities for kids, including a playgroup centre and a
kids pool area. Theres an impressive list of watersports, such as water basketball, canoeing and water polo while the
excellent nautical club has numerous catamarans, sailing boats and pedal boats. www.solmeliacuba.com

CAYO COCO Tryp Cayo Coco 0Sz \\\\\

Jardines del Rey, Cayo Coco, Ciego de vila Tel (33) 301 300 Fax (33) 301 386 Rooms 508
A family all-inclusive with an enormous sprawling pool and extensive ocean front grounds smothered in palm trees.
Theres a playground, babysitting services and a kids club for 5-13 year olds. Adults wanting to escape can enjoy the
smaller ecological pool with a jacuzzi . Four restaurants, gym and night-lit tennis courts. www.solmeliacuba.com

CAYO GUILLERMO Villa Cojimar 0Sz \\\

Jardines del Rey, Cayo Guillermo, Ciego de vila Tel (33) 301 712, 301 725 Fax (33) 301 727 Rooms 212
The oldest resort on Cayo Guillermo, Villa Cojimar is a little past its best given the more luxurious, modern neigh-
bouring hotels but its also one of the least expensive. The guest rooms, in concrete houses, are better looking on the
inside and are well equipped. Facilities include a gym, sauna, jacuzzi and games room. www.gran-caribe.com

CAYO GUILLERMO Iberostar Daiquiri 0Sz \\\\\

Jardines del Rey, Cayo Guillermo, Ciego de vila Tel (33) 301 650 Fax (33) 301 645 Rooms 312
Iberostar Daiquiri is not as widely spread out as some of the other all-inclusive on the cays, though it is still a large
resort. The rooms here are arranged in several long three-storey buildings enveloping the pool area. There are four
restaurants, a beach barbecue grill, gym, tennis courts and indoor soccer. www.iberostar.com

CAYO GUILLERMO Meli Cayo Guillermo 0Sz \\\\\

Jardines del Rey, Cayo Guillermo, Ciego de vila Tel (33) 301 680 Fax (33) 301 685, 301 684 Rooms 301
Though it isnt a couples-only resort, Meli Cayo Guillermo specializes in romance with a wedding gazebo, hammocks
in their own hut suspended over the water and a long wooden walkway extending into the sea where covered platforms
offer seclusion and tranquility. Four restaurants, fitness centre and two tennis courts. www.solmeliacuba.com

CAYO GUILLERMO Sol Cayo Guillermo 0Sz \\\\\

Jardines del Rey, Cayo Guillermo, Ciego de vila Tel (33) 301 760 Fax (33) 301 748 Rooms 268
Theres a relaxing, harmonious feel around this neatly designed hotel complex. The scattered bungalows and two-
storey villas blend in with the palm-shrouded gardens, all with traditional red brick-coloured roofs, polished tile floors
and pastel interiors. Theres an attractive pool and decent stretch of beach. www.solmeliacuba.com

MORN Casa de Juan Carlos Espinosa Sz \

Cristbal Coln 39, e/ Carretera de Patria y Linea de Ferrocarril Tel (33) 504 177 Rooms 2
A remarkable casa particular given that it has a swimming pool and a matted-roof bar in the back garden. Right next
to the train station, this elegant neo-colonial residence contains two simple but comfortable rooms and is run by the
biographer and friend of Buena Vista Social Clubs Pio Leiva, a musician who died in March 2006.

MORN Hotel Morn e0Sz \

Avenida Tarafa, Morn, Ciego de Avila Tel (33) 502 230 Fax (33) 502 133 Rooms 143
This is a conveniently located transit hotel and although the building isnt attractive it is one of the provinces largest
hotels outside of the cays, making it a reliable place to get a room if youre driving through Cuba or out to Cayo
Coco. There is a decent sized, clean swimming pool, too. www.islazul.cu

Key to Price Guide see p252 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O S T AY 265

PENNSULA ANCN Club Amigo Ancn 0Sz \\

Playa Ancn, Pennsula Ancn, Trinidad, Sancti Spritus Tel (41) 996 120, 6123 to 29 Fax (41) 996 121 Rooms 279
At the tip of the peninsula, on the best section of beach, recent renovations have brightened up this multi-storey
building. Theres plenty to do here, with a large swimming pool, hidden from the beach behind the hotel, two tennis
courts, pool tables and bicycles for rent. www.hotelescubanacan.com

PENNSULA ANCN Hotel Costasur 0Sz \\

Playa Mara Aguilar, Pennsula Ancn, Trinidad, Sancti Spritus Tel (41) 996 174 Fax (41) 996 173 Rooms 131
The beach here is inferior to those found nearer the other hotels on the peninsula, but the attractive bungalows
lining the seafront lawn are as appealing a place to stay as anywhere else on this stretch of coastline. Theres an airy
lobby bar, a tennis court and standard pool. www.hotelescubanacan.com

PENNSULA ANCN Brisas Trinidad del Mar 0Sz \\\\

Pennsula Ancn, Trinidad, Sancti Spritus Tel (41) 996 500 to 07 Fax (41) 996 565 Rooms 241
The newest and most upmarket resort on the peninsula is dotted with architectural touches meant to mimic the colonial
buildings up the road in Trinidad. These touches do add some character to what is otherwise a standard all-inclusive with
all the usual comfort and facilities, such as tennis courts and a gym as well as a kids club. www.hotelescubanacan.com

PLAYA SANTA LUCA Club Amigo Mayanabo 0Sz \\

Avenida Turstica de Tararaco, Playa Santa Luca, Camagey Tel (32) 336 184 Fax (32) 365 295 Rooms 225
This hotel is a mixed bag. The landscaped grounds are a tad patchy in places and the main buildings a little dated but
it does have the biggest pool in Santa Luca and theres a captivating water-bound beach bar at the end of a mini-
pier. Guest rooms are clean but would improve with refurbishment. www.hotelescubanacan.com

PLAYA SANTA LUCA Gran Club Santa Luca 0Sz \\\

Avenida Turstica de Tararaco, Playa Santa Luca, Nuevitas, Camagey Tel (32) 336 109 Fax (32) 365 147 Rooms 252
The rooms here and the resort in general are as well equipped as any hotel in the area. There are several restaurants,
tennis courts, a beauty parlour, a gym and a games room. Be sure to ask for a room away from the road (some
rooms are disappointingly close to the road) or pay extra for a suite. [email protected]

PLAYA SANTA LUCA Hotel Brisas Santa Luca 0Sz \\\

Avenida Turstica, Playa Santa Luca, Nuevitas, Camagey Tel (32) 336 317 Fax (32) 365 142 Rooms 400
Admittedly there is a long list of facilities here, among which are five bars, tennis courts, a gym and a host of water
sports apparatus, but the hotel really qualifies as a 3-star rather than a 4-star facility. Some of the rooms are in need
of refurbishment. www.hotelescubanacan.com

SANCTI SPRITUS Casa de Martha Rodrguez Martnez y Miguel z \

Plcido 69, e/ Caldern y Tirso Marn Tel (41) 323 556 Rooms 2
One of the most professionally run casas particulares in the city. Its guest rooms, which have ceiling fans as well as
a/c, tv and top-quailty en suite bathrooms, are cleaned daily and the owner produces a menu for meal times. Theres
an intimate terrace where food is served, and a roof terrace with modest views over the city.

SANCTI SPRITUS Hotel Zaza 0Sz \

Finca San Jos Km 5.5, Lago Zaza Tel (41) 237 035 Fax (41) 328 359, 325 490 Rooms 77
Another of Cubas shrines to concrete, this heavy-set four-storey hotel is completely out-of-sync with its natural sur-
roundings and the man-made reservoir (the largest of its kind in Cuba) stretching before it. Hunting and particularly
fishing are the focus here, and though theres a pool most visitors bring a rod rather than a swimsuit. www.islazul.cu

SANCTI SPRITUS Los Richards z \

Independencia 17 (altos), Plaza Serafn Sanchez Tel (41) 326 745 Rooms 2
Of all the houses renting rooms in the city, this is the most centrally located. Theres a huge space exclusively for the
use of guests with a living-room, bedroom and bathroom as well as a balcony looking out onto the plaza. Up on the
roof the owners have contructed their own bohio-roof open-air dining area.

SANCTI SPRITUS CITY Hostal del Rijo 0z \

Honorato del Castillo 12 Tel (41) 328 588 Fax (41) 328 577 Rooms 16
Considerably underpriced compared to numerous other town hotels in Cuba, this delectable little colonial conversion
on a tiny square in the heart of the city is a wonderful place to stay. Rooms are surprisingly spacious, well equipped, subtly
decorated with dark-wood furnishings and high-quality bathrooms with marble touches. www.hotelescubanacan.com

SANCTI SPRITUS CITY Hostal Plaza 0z \

Independencia 1, esq. Avenida de los Mrtires, Plaza Serafn Snchez Tel (41) 327 102 Fax (41) 326 940 Rooms 27
Right on the main square, this is the citys other excellent-value hotel. All the spaces are full of character, from the
graceful lobby with its wicker furnishings to the intimate restaurant and the attractive rooms with colonial-style
furnishings, many with balconies looking over the square. Recently refurbished. www.hotelescubanacan.com

SANCTI SPRITUS CITY Villa Los Laureles 0Sz \

Carretera Central Km 383 Tel (41) 327 016 Fax (41) 323 913 Rooms 76
This roadside villa complex on the outskirts of the city on the island-wide Carretera Central is used predominantly by
weary motorists. The basic layout, with inoffensive-looking bungalows gathered around a medium-sized, oblong
pool, adds to the straightforward appeal of the place. Rooms have satellite tv, radio and minibar. www.islazul.cu
266 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

SANCTI SPRITUS CITY Rancho Hatuey 0Sz \\

Carretera Central Km 383 Tel (41) 328 321 Fax (41) 328 830 Rooms 74
Spread thinly around its spacious, grassy, gently undulating grounds, this simple hotel complex melts into the
surrounding countryside to the extent that you cant really see the joint. Rooms are in boxy, two-storey concrete
cabins and theres a pool area in the centre. The best place in town for peace and relaxation. www.islazul.cu

TRINIDAD Casa de Azalea y Alfredo \

Frank Pas 504, e/ Piro Guinart y Fidel Claro Tel (41) 993 845 Rooms 2
Run by two middle-aged teachers (one of history, the other of maths), this simple house, built in 1840, has some nice
touches, like the colonial-era doorway shutters and the more modern crazy-paving on the walls in both bedrooms.
Theres a roof terrace and a diminutive patio. [email protected]

TRINIDAD Casa Margely z \

Piro Guinart 360, e/ Fernando Hernndez Echerri y Juan M Mrquez Tel (41) 996 525 Rooms 2
The rooms in this fairly opulent colonial residence are walled off at the back of the central patio in a private little
section of the house with its own garden gate and dining room. Both rooms have two double beds, but only one has
an en suite bathroom; the other bathroom is at the end of the leafy outdoor corridor linking it all up.

TRINIDAD Casa Santana \

Maceo 425, e/ Fco. J. Zerquera y Coln Tel (41) 994 372 Rooms 1
Casa Santana is run by an enthusiastic host who hands you a book on the history of Trinidad when you arrive. The whole
of the upstairs of the house, three rooms in all, is given over to guests. The backyard patio is spacious, and the well is
one of the many original colonial artifacts found all over the house. www.particuba.net/villes/trinidad/santana

TRINIDAD Hostal Las Mercedes z \

Camilo Cienfuegos 272, e/ Maceo y Francisco Cadaha Tel (41) 993 107 Rooms 1
On one of the busier streets just outside the historic centre of Trinidad, the room here looks onto the open backyard
patio full of plants and trees, including a huge cactus. The high-ceiling guest room has a huge colonial style bathroom,
a bronze bed and an imposing wardrobe. Run by an exuberant owner and her son. [email protected]

TRINIDAD Hotel Las Cuevas 0Sz \\

Finca Santa Ana Tel (41) 996 133, 6434 Fax (41) 996 161 Rooms 109
Laid out on a hillside just above the town, there are great views wherever you are in this very relaxing and secluded cabin
complex. The serenity is disturbed only by the nightly shows of traditional Cuban music and dance that take place on the
terrace outside the restaurant. The unique hotel disco is in a cave deep in the hillside. www.hotelescubanacan.com

TRINIDAD Iberostar Grand Hotel Trinidad e0z \\\\\

Jos Mart 262, e/ Lino Prez y Coln, Parque Cspedes Tel (41) 996 073, 6074, 6075 Fax (41) 996 077 Rooms 40
Opened in 2006 this sumptuous small-scale five-star hotel has an enchanting central patio and some great touches,
like the giant pineapple lampshade and the memorabilia encased in the glass-topped lobby coffee tables. The
restaurant is the best and most expensive in Trinidad. Rooms have either a balcony or terrace. www.iberostar.com

EASTERN CUBA

BARACOA Casa de Clara Carratal z \

Mariana Grajales 30 Tel (21) 643 361 Rooms 2

Run by a chatty former doctor, this laid-back spick-and-span house features rooms centred around a pleasant little
patio. The cooking here is of a high standard and the speciality of the house is fish cooked in coconut milk. Casa de
Clara Carratal is located five blocks from the seafront.

BARACOA Casa de Nancy Borges Gallego z \

Ciro Fras 3 esq. Flor Crombet Tel (21) 643 272 Rooms 3
An agreeable place run by friendly owners, one of whom Ren Frometa is the adopted son of local legend La
Rusa, an immigrant Russian who gave shelter to the rebel army during the Revolution. One of the rooms here is set
up as a kind of museum in homage to the lady. Rooms are clean and comfortable.

BARACOA Hostal La Habanera 0z \

Los Maceos 124 e/ Maravi y Frank Pais, Baracoa, Guantnamo Tel (21) 645 273 Rooms 10
Occupying a beautifully refurbished Colonial residence built in 1867, this charming hotel is right in the heart of
Baracoa. For the price, rooms are of an excellent standard: spacious with high ceilings and smart, tiled floors. The
hotel runs a programme of relaxation therapies, including a variety of massages. www.hostallahabanera.com

BARACOA Hotel la Rusa 0z \

Mximo Gmez no.161 e/ Pelayo Cuervo y Ciro Fras, Baracoa, Guantnamo Tel (21) 643 011 Rooms 12
On the seafront, this simple, three-storey building has small rooms, modestly furnished, with tiny bathrooms. Some
have pleasant sea views. The restaurant tables are lined up along a narrow terrace. The former owner was a Russian
immigrant (hence the name) who gave refuge to Fidel and his men during the Revolution. www.hotellarusa.com

Key to Price Guide see p252 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O S T AY 267

BARACOA El Castillo 0Sz \\

Loma de Paraso, Baracoa, Guantnamo Tel (21) 645 194, 645 165 Fax (21) 645 339 Rooms 34
The best place to stay for postcard views of Baracoa and the bay, this laid-back hotel is part-housed in a converted
18th-century fort. The historic theme extends to the rooms, which are furnished in a smart, refined colonial style. The
whole hotel is imbued with a soothing sense of calm. Great views from the small pool. www.gaviota-grupo.com

BARACOA Porto Santo 0Sz \\

Carretera del Aeropuerto, Baracoa, Guantnamo Tel (21) 645 106 Fax (21) 645 339 Rooms 60
Secluded and right on the edge of the bay, the location is where Columbus is said to have planted the Cruz de Parra,
a cross declaring the European arrival in the Americas. The hotel has its own private patch of beach and is gracefully
spread around neatly trimmed lawns. Guest rooms are average. www.gaviota-grupo.com

BAYAMO Hotel Escuela Telgrafo 0z \

Jos Antonio Saco no.108, e/ General Garca y Donato Mrmol, Bayamo Tel (23) 425 510 Fax (23) 427 389 Rooms 12
An excellent-value hotel, originally opened in 1925 but remodelled in recent years, is now a training school for the hotel
trade. Rooms are furnished with differing styles of beds and contrasting colour schemes, some of them a little garish,
but all have minibar and satellite tv. Theyre also managed to squeeze in two restaurants and two bars. www.ehtgr.co.cu

BAYAMO Hotel Royalton 0z \

Antonio Maceo no.53, e/ General Garca y Jos Palma, Bayamo Tel (23) 422 290 Fax (23) 424 792 Rooms 33
The smartest hotel in town, dating from the 1940s, is located on the main square. Its restaurant is one of the best in the
city, with a veranda overlooking the square. All rooms have been decorated and furnished with a well-ordered restraint,
featuring dark wood, tv and small but pristine bathrooms. Four of them have views of the square. www.islazul.cu

CAIMANERA Hotel Caimanera 0Sz \

Loma Norte, Caimanera, Guantnamo Tel (21) 499 414 to 16 Fax (21) 499 649 Rooms 19
This small, simple hotel has a unique claim to fame: its as near as most people are allowed to get to the controversial
US naval base at Guantnamo Bay and even has a designated lookout from where guests view the base through
binoculars. Rooms are slightly cramped. Booking in advance is obligatory. [email protected]

CAYO SAETA Villa Cayo Saeta 0z \\

Cayo Saetia, Mayari, Holgun Tel (24) 516 900, 516 901 Rooms 12
A chilled-out, unpretentious little cabin complex on the coast, perfect for relaxation. The well-equipped wooden
cabins are thoughtfully and harmoniously furnished, combining perfectly a good level of comfort with a rustic decor
neatly in tune with the natural surroundings. Breakfast is not included in the rate. www.gaviota-grupo.cu

GRANMA PROVINCE Club Amigo Marea del Portillo 0Sz \

Marea del Portillo Km 12 1/2, Piln, Granma Tel (23) 597 008, 597 102 Fax (23) 597 080 Rooms 140
A serene natural setting between the mountains and the sea make this three-star all-inclusive a perfect place to escape.
From the pool area, with its mountain views, sloping lawns lead down to lovely, shrub-lined beach. There are
programmes of entertainment, including showcases of traditional Cuban culture. www.hotelescubanacan.com

HOLGUN CITY Villa Formell z \

Morales Lemus 189, e/ Frexes y Mart Tel (24) 422 547 Rooms 1
Just a couple of blocks from central Parque Calixto Garca, this large house is run by Deisy Formell, cousin to Juan
Formell founder of the world-famous Cuban salsa group, Los Van Van. The comfortable guest room has its own
bathroom, and communal areas include a pleasant little leafy patio.

HOLGUN CITY Hotel Pernik e0Sz \\

Avenida Jorge Dimitrov y Plaza de la Revolucin, Nuevo Holgun, Holgun Tel (24) 481 011 Fax (24) 481 158 Rooms 200
From the 1970s school of Russian-influenced hotel architecture, this relatively well equipped but unspectacular town
hotel has a large oblong pool, three restaurants and several bars. More uniquely, there are eight gallery rooms
dedicated to personalities from the world of Cuban culture. www.hotelpernik.cu

HOLGUN PROVINCE Villa Mirador de Mayabe e0Sz \\

Altura de Mayabe Km 8.5, Holgun Tel (24) 422 160, 423 485 Fax (24) 425 498 Rooms 24
Perched on a hillside covered in flourishing dense woodlands and overlooking a valley surrounding the city of
Holguin, the view from this hotel is a large part of the attraction of staying here. A smaller part is witnessing the
resident beer-drinking donkey! www.islazul.cu

PARQUE BACONAO Villa Gran Piedra 0z \

Carretera Gran Piedra Km 14, Santiago de Cuba Tel (22) 686 393, 686 147, 686 395 Rooms 22
At over 1,200 m (3,940 ft) above sea level, this is Cubas highest hotel. The breathtaking views from this mountain-
side resort, woven into the ruins of a colonial coffee plantation, make it a very special place to stay, even though the
amenities and facilities here are only average. Rooms are in stone and brick cabins. www.islazul.cu

PARQUE BACONAO Club Amigo Carisol Los Corales 0Sz \\

Carretera de Baconao Km 31, Santiago de Cuba Tel (22) 356 122 Fax (22) 356 177 Rooms 310
The Club Amigo Carisol Los Corales has its own section of beach and accommodation is spread out around attractive
tree-studded grounds. Decent pool and a lively entertainment schedule, but the standard of food is average. Theres
a kids club, and water sports facilities include catamarans, kayaks and aqua bikes. www.hotelescubanacan.com
268 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

PARQUE BACONAO Hotel Costa Morena 0Sz \\

Carretera de Baconao Km 24 1/2, Siga, Santiago de Cuba Tel (22) 356 135 Fax (22) 356 160 Rooms 115
Overlooking the Caribbean and surrounded by the hills of the Parque Baconao, this is a great place to stay if you like
the outdoors. Theres a natural swimming pool as well as a standard man-made one, and all rooms have sea views.
Hiking and trekking around the park can be arranged from here. www.islazul.cu

PLAYA COVARRUBIAS Villa Covarrubias 0Sz \\\

Playa Covarrubias, Puerto Padre, Las Tunas Tel (31) 515 530 Fax (31) 515 352 Rooms 180
This waterfront all-inclusive with landscaped grounds leading down to the beach is located close to a fantastic coral
reef. There are facilities for snorkelling and diving, while other available activities range from billiards, table tennis
and bingo to basketball, archery and exercises in the aqua gym. www.hotelescubanacan.com

PLAYA ESMERALDA Paradisus Ro de Oro 0Sz \\\\\

Carretera Guardalavaca, Playa Esmeralda, Rafael Freyre, Holgun Tel (24) 430 090 Fax (24) 430 095 Rooms 300
This ultra all-inclusive set on a bayfront nature reserve has an exclusive feel and is aimed predominantly at the couples
market, with facilities for weddings and honeymoons. All rooms are luxurious and tasteful and the two Garden Villas have
300 sq m (3,230 sq ft) of private grounds and their own pools and gardens. www.solmeliacuba.com

PLAYA ESMERALDA Sol Ro de Luna y Mares e0Sz \\\\\

Playa Esmeralda, Rafael Freyre, Holgun Tel (24) 430 030 Fax (24) 430 065 Rooms 465
On a fantastic, broad stretch of beach backing onto wooded, palm-dotted grounds, this family resort has a lively,
upbeat feel. Rooms are colourful and all feature either a terrace or a balcony. Six restaurants, two pools and two
tennis courts, plus a beach disco. It is also the site of the only certified dive centre in the area. www.solmeliacuba.com

PLAYA GUARDALAVACA Club Amigo Atlntico-Guardalavaca e0Sz \\\

Playa Guardalavaca, Banes, Holgun Tel (24) 430 180 to 82, 430 121 Fax (24) 430 200 Rooms 747
A vast all-inclusive complex with a variety of different accommodation choices, some in the large main building,
others in villas of varying shapes and sizes. Dance and Spanish classes are offered alongside all sorts of sporting
facilities with football, basketball, tennis, volleyball and archery all catered for. www.cubanacan.cu

PLAYA GUARDALAVACA Hotel Brisas Guardalavaca e0Sz \\\\

Calle 2 no.1, Playa Guardalavaca, Banes, Holgun Tel (24) 430 218, 430 162 Fax (24) 430 418 Rooms 437
A hotel village made up of attractive tiled-roof apartment blocks. The under-12s are well-catered for here with a kids
club, games area and a full programme of entertainment. Adults dont do badly either, and all doubles come with
king-sized beds. The all-inclusive package includes tours of a historic Amerindian village. www.brisasguardalavaca.com

PLAYA PESQUERO Blau Costa Verde Beach Resort e0Sz \\\\

Playa Pesquero, Rafael Freyre, Holgun Tel (24) 433 510 Fax (24) 433 515 Rooms 309
At the heart of this luxury resort is the impressive and alluring pool, snaking around trees and buildings and featuring
a poolside bar and restaurant. Other facilities include a beauty parlour, jacuzzi, gymnasium, a diving centre, a disco
and a cigar shop. Theres also a baby-sitting service. www.blau-hotel.com

PLAYA PESQUERO Hotel Playa Pesquero 0Sz \\\\\

Playa Pesquero, Rafael Freyre, Holgun Tel (24) 433 530 Fax (24) 433 535 Rooms 944
A staggeringly large all-inclusive hotel complex on the beach. The endless list of facilities includes three swimming
pools, three jacuzzis, seven restaurants, six bars and three tennis courts with spotlights for night-time games. Rooms
are luxurious and feature Internet access as well as all the mod cons you would expect. www.gaviota-grupo.com

PLAYA PESQUERO Playa Costa Verde 0Sz \\\\\

Playa Pesquero, Rafael Freyre, Holgun Tel (24) 433 520 Fax (24) 433 525 Rooms 480
A beachfront mega-resort featuring a great selection of outdoor areas including a huge pool, a set of four tennis
courts and a multi-purpose sports pitch all linked together by immaculately landscaped gardens. Indoors theres an
extremely well-equipped gym as well as Japanese, Italian and Cuban restaurants . www.gaviota-grupo.com

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Casa Colonial Maruchi z \

Hartmann (San Flix) 357, e/ Trinidad y San Germn Tel (22) 620 767 Rooms 2
One of the most professionally run and characterful casas particulares in the city. The front rooms are furnished with
Colonial period furniture, and the delightful central patio has plants everywhere and a peacock roaming around.
Gregarious Maruchi runs the place. [email protected]

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Casa de Leonardo y Rosa z \

Clarn (Padre Quiroga) 9, e/ Aguilera y Heredia Tel (22) 623 574 Rooms 2
This early 20th-century residence offers two guest accommodations a small double room with a large bathroom, and
located at the back of the house beyond the patio with its attractive water feature is a separate little apartment with its
own garden gate, kitchenette with classic 1950s fridge and stone steps leading up to the airy bedroom.

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Casa de Sra Vilma Herrero z \

Avenida Garzn 332, e/ 2da y 3ra, Reparto Santa Brbara Tel (22) 656 981 Rooms 2
One of the few casas particulares in this part of town, halfway between the historic centre and the outer suburban
neighbourhoods. It is an eclectically furnished and decorated 1920s bungalow with a roof terrace and a higgedly-
piggedly back yard. The elderly owners have a Chevrolet 53 parked in the tiny driveway. [email protected]

Key to Price Guide see p252 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O S T AY 269

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Casa Mundo \

Heredia 308, e/ Po Rosado (Carnicera) y Porfirio Valiente (Calvario) Tel (22) 624 097 Rooms 2
A colonial house right in the historic centre of the city. Though there is no single definable style, inside there is a
genuine sense of the past and some great pieces of furniture, like the ornate early 20th-century dresser in one of the
bedrooms. Both rooms have their own bathroom, but only one is en suite. [email protected]

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Gran Hotel 0z \

Jos Antonio Saco (Enramada) 312, esq. Hartmann (San Flix) Tel (22) 653020 Rooms 15
An everyday town hotel and the least touristy in Santiago de Cuba. Located on one of the main shopping streets, a
couple of blocks from Parque Cspedes, this budget option is surrounded by hustle and bustle. Rooms are basic but
clean and comfortable, and some have small balconies. www.granhotelstgo.cu

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Hostal San Basilio 0z \

Bartolom Mas 403 e/ Carnicera y Porfirio Valiente (Calvario) Tel (22) 651702 Fax (22) 687069 Rooms 8
Tucked away on an old, narrow street a few blocks from the main square, this a pleasant, tiny hotel is housed in a graceful
colonial residence. Its the kind of place where you cant help getting to know the staff, with the receptionist doubling
up as the waiter and the dinky kitchen and dining area occupying the same room. www.hotelescubanacan.com

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Hotel Libertad 0z \

Aguilera 652, Plaza de Marte Tel (22) 627710 Rooms 17

On the least touristy of the three central squares, this neo-colonial conversion has bags of character and is more
stylish and refined than its price band might suggest. A dignified, columned, arched lobby leads onto wide corridors
and a broad staircase ascending to the roof-terrace bar and sweeping vistas of the east of the city. www.islazul.cu

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Versalles 0Sz \

Carretera al Morro Km 1, Altura de Versalles Tel (22) 691016 Fax (22) 686039 Rooms 72
From this good-value cabin complex near the historic El Morro castle, beyond the southern edge of Santiago, there
are fabulous views back over the city and out to the Sierra Maestra mountains. Facilities include tennis, basketball
and volleyball courts. There is also easy access to the airport. www.cubanacan.cu

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Hotel Las Amricas e0Sz \\

General Cebreco y Avenida de las Amricas Tel (22) 642011 Fax (22) 687075 Rooms 70
The location on the aristocratic side of the city, with its broad, tree-lined avenues, provides what was formerly one of
Santiagos most prestigious hotels with attractive enough surroundings to take the less attractive edge off this now
dated-looking apartment hotel. As well as two restaurants and two bars, the hotel has its own cabaret. www.islazul.cu

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Hotel San Juan 0Sz \\

Carretera de Siboney Km 1 1/2 Tel (22) 687200 Fax (22) 687237 Rooms 110
Right at the city limits, this is a laid-back place to stay set in attractive, verdant grounds with a large swimming pool
around which many of the cabins housing the rooms are centred. The rooms themselves are nothing special but well
equipped with satellite tv, radio, safety deposit box and en suite bathrooms. www.sanjuan.co.cu

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Villa Gaviota Santiago de Cuba 0Sz \\

Avenida Manduley 502, e/ 19 y 21, Reparto Vista Alegre Tel (22) 641368 Fax (22) 687166 Rooms 54
Dotted around this enchanting neighbourhood that was home to the citys wealthy before the Revolution, the guest
rooms here are in converted mansions, which have been divided into two or three apartments each. Some rooms
share bathrooms. A purpose-built central building houses the pool and restaurant. www.gaviota-grupo.com

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Hotel Casa Granda e0z \\\

Heredia 201 esq. San Pedro Tel (22) 686600 Fax (22) 686035 Rooms 58
A magnificent colonial building on the main square in the heart of the city, this is ideal for anyone wanting to stay in
the thick of the action without sacrificing comfort. Rooms are of a high standard and there is a roof terrace where
you can eat and drink with sweeping views down to the bay. www.gran-caribe.com

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Meli Santiago de Cuba e0Sz \\\

Calle M e/ 4ta y Avenida Las Amricas Tel (22) 687070 Fax (22) 687170 Rooms 302
On a pleasant, leafy avenue away from the centre, this is the flashiest, most upmarket hotel in Santiago. The main building
is a quirky, colourful high-rise block from which most rooms with stunning views. There are three good restaurants, and
the impressive grounds feature a fantastic split-level pool, a basketball court and football pitch. www.solmeliacuba.com

SIERRA MAESTRA Brisas Los Galeones 0Sz \\\

Carretera Chivirico Km 72 Tel (22) 326160 Rooms 34

The sister hotel of the Brisas Sierra Mar (below), this is the more intimate version of the impressive all-inclusive. All rooms
have mountain and sea views. A minibus links the two hotels, 12 km (7.5 miles) apart, and guests can use the facilities at
either, which include massage, jacuzzi, sauna, gym and tennis courts. Over 16s only. www.hotelescubanacan.com

SIERRA MAESTRA Brisas Sierra Mar e0Sz \\\

Carretera Chivirico Km 60 Tel (22) 329110 Fax (22) 329116 Rooms 200
A beach-front hotel in its own beautiful little woody enclave with the Sierra Maestra mountains as a backdrop. A great
option for families with young children, as this all-inclusive has a play area and a series of entertainment programmes
designed for 4- to 12-year olds. Many rooms have balconies with uninterrupted sea views. www.hotelescubanacan.com
270 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

WHERE TO EAT

I n traditional Cuban cooking,

rice and beans are the
staples rather than bread,
and the most common
dishes are meat-based.
dishes, local menus generally
feature some specialities of
comida criolla (Creole
cuisine; see p272). Places
offering food range from
Seafood also features heavily state-run restaurants and
with shrimp, lobster and fish The neon sign at the historic hotel restaurants, which are
La Zaragozana restaurant
dishes found on a large usually comfortable and
proportion of restaurant menus. Different elegant, to informal paladares serving
influences can be seen in Cuban cooking inexpensive home cooking. In Havana
and there are local variations, especially there are also Chinese and Arab restau-
on the eastern side of Cuba. Food is rarely rants, and pizzerias are everywhere.
hot and spicy. Besides international Vegetarian restaurants are a rarity.

RESTAURANTS AND CAFES PALADARES

State-run restaurants have for The cheapest

years had a bad reputation. places offering
However, in recent years a Cuban cooking are
great effort has been made to called paladares.
improve them (partly due to These are small
competition from private private restaurants
paladares). Now, standards in with a handful of
some cases, for example in tables, offering a
branches of the Palmares fixed price or la
chain run by Cubanacn, are carte menu. Dishes
very good. are often simple
Some of Havanas most but can be
delightful restaurants are surprisingly good
housed in well-restored The inviting dining room of the Tocororo and often better
Colonial buildings with period restaurant in Havana quality than
furnishings. Many have a view their state-run
or a garden of some kind. Live anything from pasta to roast equivalents. Paladares are
music is often performed and suckling pig with rice and subject to all kinds of
makes for a lively atmosphere. black beans. government restrictions that
The restaurants in luxury Some of Havanas most dont affect state restaurants
hotels are usually high-quality famous bars have a separately in some areas they are
and feature international managed restaurant. Examples forbidden from providing
dishes along with a good are the Bodeguita del Medio chairs for customers
wine list. As an alternative to and El Floridita in Havana, (effectively making them
formal, la carte dining, many and the Terraza de Cojmar. takeaways), and they are
hotels offer buffets, which in These are open all day serving banned altogether from major
Cuba are called mesa sueca snacks and cocktails, and beach resorts.
(smorgasbord), where, for offer a full menu for lunch However, be wary of people
a fixed price, you can eat and dinner. who accost you in the street
and offer to show you a
paladar: once there, your
helpful guide will receive
a commission from the
proprietor and your bill
will cost a few dollars more.
Furthermore, your new friend
will probably also ask you to
treat him to dinner!
In the paladares people
usually drink cold beer with
their food, but mineral water
and soft drinks are also
normally available. The price
shown for a dish includes
service and side dishes such
as beans, salad and fried
Dining out at La Campaa de Toledo restaurant in Camagey plantains or yucca.
 W H E R E T O E A T 271

malanga (a local root

vegetable), coconut sweets
and peanut nougat. Around
noon cajitas, cardboard boxes
containing rice, beans, salad,
pork or chicken, are served.
The same foods can be
found on sale in the fruit
and vegetable markets
(agros) throughout the
island. However, standards
of hygiene may vary
considerably (see p302).

PAYING
Inside a typical paladar, which has traditional cuisine and live music
In many restaurants and
PRIVATE HOMES People eat either at tables or paladares, expect to pay in
at the counter. This chain is cash with convertible pesos.
It often happens that private comparatively new and Only the better restaurants and
homes offering rooms to let standards of hygiene are hotels accept credit cards. At
(see p251) also provide main usually high. markets or on the road you can
meals as well as breakfast. Along the major roads and pay in Cuban pesos, although
Since the food normally eaten on the motorways you will convertible pesos would also
by the home owners is find the equivalent of be accepted (change will be
plainer than the food offered motorway cafs selling soft given in pesos). Restaurant
to guests, you drinks, beer, bills should include a tip; add
will be asked to fruit juice, pizza, more to show appreciation.
let them know ice cream and,
in advance sometimes, WHEN TO EAT
whether you Sign of the Coppelia sandwiches.
intend to eat ice cream chain Some kiosks Breakfast (desayuno) is
in or out. In are set among served from 6 or 7am and
general, the standards of trees, perfect for a relaxing usually consists of a buffet
cleanliness in authorized stop in the shade. offering fresh fruit, bread,
private homes are good. The The best ice cream is sold at butter, ham, cheese and eggs,
quality of the food varies the Coppelia parlours, which yoghurt, milk, coffee and at
quite a lot: you may be lucky are found in many Cuban times jam. Lunch is served
and eat extremely well, cities (the one in Havana is an from noon to 1:30pm, but
feasting perhaps on fresh institution, see p98). They are many restaurants and
lobster or prawns. highly popular so be prepared paladares have adapted to
to wait in a queue. tourists needs and serve food
SNACKS AND FAST FOOD Lastly, you can buy food well into the afternoon.
along the road from people Dinner is eaten from 7 to
All kinds of snacks are widely who run small stalls in front 9pm. Dont expect to find a
available in Cuba. Virtually all of their homes. Food on offer restaurant willing to serve
cafeteras, inside and outside may include pizza, sand- you a meal after 10pm,
hotels, sell the classic Cuban wiches, fritters of corn or except perhaps in Havana.
sandwich, with cheese
and ham, or hot dogs
with mustard, ketchup
and chips, to eat in or
take away.
There is also an
American-style fast
food chain, El Rpido,
where for a few
convertible pesos you
can get fried chicken
with a side dish of
papitas fritas (chips),
beer or refresco (soft
drink). These places
also offer perritos
calientes (hot dogs),
hamburguesas
(hamburgers), pizza
and ice cream. A branch of the fast-food chain, El Rpido, at Sancti Spritus
272 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

The Flavours of Cuba

Cubas mercados agropecuarios (farmers markets) are a
cornucopia of fruits and vegetables fresh from the fields.
Tomatoes, cucumbers and squash are staples, along
with ripe pltanos, the humble yet ubiquitous
plantain (a relative of the banana). Exotic fruits
enliven stalls with their distinctive bouquets and
hues. Poultry run around freely until ready for the
pot, while home-fed pigs provide pork the main
meat. The government maintains a monopoly on the
sale of beef, prawns and lobster, making them hard
to find outside the state-run restaurants. Guava paste and white cheese

produce such as calabaza (a Typically flavoured with

squash), yucca (cassava) and peppers, onion, oregano and
maize (sweetcorn), tomatoes, cumin, criolla dishes are
potatoes and bell peppers usually served with boiled
are combined with pumpkin potatoes or other root
and cabbage introduced by vegetables (viandas). Simple
the Spanish. African vege- salads vary according to the
tables include malanga time of year: in winter they
(a root vegetable with a might well feature lettuce,
delicate flavour), platano tomatoes, white cabbage
vianda (a variety of plantain and, at times, beets; in the
that is eaten cooked) and summer they may include
quimbomb okra, often green beans, carrots,
called ladies fingers. cucumber and avocado.
Plantains Limes Watermelon Pineapple
A young Cuban farmer displays his Custard apple
harvest of plantains
Mango

COMIDA CRIOLLA

Traditional Cuban comida

criolla (creole cuisine) is the
main cuisine, based mainly
on the frying pan and using
simple ingredients, with little
regional variation not least
due to national shortages of
everything. It is a melding Papaya
of Spanish, African and
indigenous, pre-Columbian
Indian influences. Local Some of the tropical fruits that add flavour and colour to Cuban cuisine

CUBAN DISHES AND SPECIALITIES

Cubas zesty cultural mix has produced some superb
national dishes, although visitors are often hard-
pressed to find dishes such as aromatic ropa vieja.
Pork (cerdo) is a Cuban favourite, especially
smoked loin (loma ahumado) roasted on a
spit. The main accompaniment is white rice
with black beans, often cooked together to
form moros y cristianos, known as congr or
congr oriental when the beans are red.
Another common accompaniment is fried
plantains, which are sometimes mashed
Black beans and re-fried in patties (tostones). Rice dishes,
and even succulent roast chicken cooked in
orange sauce, are often enlivened with mojo, a zesty sauce Filete de pescado grill may
of garlic, oil and bitter orange. Main meals are usually be any grilled fillet of white
followed by a fruit plate, or a relatively simple dessert fish, here served with tostones
such as flan or a fruit preserve served with cheese. and white cabbage salad.
 W H E R E T O E A T 273

by the indigenous peoples.

Coconut milk flavours
bacn, a tortilla of baked
plantain filled with spiced
pork and cooked wrapped in
a banana leaf. It is also used
as a base in which to simmer
spinach-like calal. Red
plantains, known as pltanos
manzanos, are mashed with
coconut milk to make
rangollo. Cocoa forms the
base of Baracoas delicious
chocolate and is the key
ingredient of chorote, an
ambrosial drink thickened
with cornflour. Mixed with
Fruit and vegetable stall at a Havana farmers market copious amounts of sugar
(sometimes with the addition
The most ubiquitous meat BARACOAN of grated orange peel and
on the island is ham; pork is SPECIALITIES nuts), shredded coconut
also served roasted (cerdo makes a delicious sweet.
asado) or as thin fillets Baracoan fare, from the far
(chuletas). Chicken is usually eastern side of the island,
ON THE MENU
coated with flour and fried in revolves around the use of
oil (pollo frito), although it is coconut and cocoa, cultivated Coco rallado Grated coconut
also occasionally served since pre-Columbian times in syrup, served with cheese.
fricassed, accompanied by
Cucurucho Shredded coconut
French fries. Fish and sea-
with orange, fruits, nuts and
food, notably lobster and syrup, pressed in a palm leaf.
shrimp, is typically served in
a tomato sauce (enchilada) Empanada Turnover pastries
or fried, grilled or baked with filled with minced meat,
butter and garlic, as with sea potatoes and other vegetables.
bass and mahi mahi, which Filete uruguayano Pork or fish
is almost always grilled. cutlet stuffed with ham and
Camarones (meaty prawns) cheese, then baked.
are served in many different
ways stewed, grilled, baked Potaje Thick soup made from
or boiled and garnished with black or red beans with garlic,
onions and herbs and spices.
mayonnaise. Breakfasts are
usually limited to simple Ropa vieja Shredded beef
omelettes and a fruit plate, marinated and cooked with
perhaps with bread and local spices and onion, served with
white cheese (similar to Cubans fishing in the evening on white rice.
Greek fta) plus yoghurt. the Malecon in Havana

Ajiaco consists of vegetables, Cerdo asado is roast pork, Flan de huevos appears on
including plantains, which usually served quite simply most menus. It is a typically
are simmered with meat with rice and beans and Spanish dessert, similar to
and herbs to form a rich stew. often an orange sauce. crme caramel but sweeter.
274 T R A V E L L E R S N E E D S

What to Drink in Cuba

A wide range of drinks, both alcoholic and non-
alcoholic, is available in Cuba, although wine
tends to be available only in restaurants and is almost
always imported. Tap water is drinkable in many places
but to avoid any health problems it is better to keep
to bottled water. Visitors should be careful, too, about
buying drinks such as fruit juice or fruit shakes from
street or market stalls. In bars and cafs not up to
international standards especially in Eastern Cuba
avoid ice in drinks like cocktails. In such places stick
to pre-packaged drinks, draught beer or rum. Preparing refreshing guarapo,
or sugar cane juice

BEER SPIRITS

Beer (cerveza) is the most widely seen and The most widespread and popular spirit in
popular drink in Cuba. It is drunk very cold Cuba is, of course, rum. There are several
and at all hours of the day, as well as during different types (see p75): the youngest silver
meals. There are excellent bottled and canned dry and carta blanca are used in cocktails,
Cuban lager beers, such as Cristal, Lagarto, while the aged rums (carta oro, five years old,
Mayabe and Bucanero (the latter is also sold and aejos, at least seven years old)
in a fuerte version, which is stronger and are drunk neat. Besides Havana
drier). A drink Club and Varadero, which are
similar to beer is known worldwide, there are many
malta, a very other different brands of rum in
sweet, fizzy malt- Cuba. Among the best are
based drink that Matusalm, an upmarket, aged
is popular with rum from Santiago with a smooth
Cuban children. flavour; and Mulata, which
Malta is some- is very popular.
times mixed with A poor relation of rum is
condensed milk aguardiente, which is stronger
to be used as and quite sour, and drunk
Beer: Bucanero (strong) an energizer mainly by locals. Guayabita is a
and Cristal (light) and tonic. speciality of Pinar del Ro, made
from rum and guava fruit (see
PACKAGED SOFT DRINKS p141). In addition, a range of
very sweet flavoured liqueurs
Soft drinks lemon, orange and cola called (such as coconut, mint, banana
refrescos, either Cuban or imported, are sold and pineapple) is available,
canned, bottled or in cartons. The Tropical A bottle of usually served with ice or
Island range of fruit juices is excellent. All kinds aged rum in cocktails.
of fruits are used: mango, guayaba (guava),
pineapple, apple, pear, orange, grapefruit, FRUIT SHAKES AND SQUASHES
banana with orange, tropical
cocktail, tamarind, peach and The most common fruit squash is lemonade,
tomato. The most common made with lime, sugar, water and ice. More
brand of water sold, still (sin nutritious drinks are the batidos, which are
gas) or sparkling (con gas), is shakes made from fresh fruit, often mango
Ciego Montero. and papaya. Milk, sugar and guanbana, not
an easy fruit to find, make a drink called
Tropical Island champola. Coconut juice with ice is a
guayaba juice delicious, refreshing drink. Another
typical Cuban drink is guarapo, which
HOT DRINKS is made by squeezing fresh sugar cane
stalks with a special crusher. It
Hotel bars serve Italian espresso coffee or makes for a refreshing and
American coffee. The coffee served in private energizing drink, and is
homes or sold on the streets is usually strong not as sweet as you might
and has sugar already added. It is expect. Even so, to tone
served in a tiny coffee cup. For a dash of down the sweetness,
milk, ask for a cortado; order a caf con Cubans add a few drops
leche for a more milky coffee. Sin azcar of lime or a dash of rum.
means without sugar. Camomile tea
(manzanilla) is also easy to find. Coconut juice served in the shell
 W H E R E T O E A T 275

Cuban Cocktails
Cuba has been famous for its engineer named Pagluchi and
rum since the 1500s, although his American colleague Cox,
the rum the pirates loved so while making an inspection
much was not the same as near Santiago, mixed rum with
todays, but a bitter and highly Lime, used
sugar and lemon, and named the
alcoholic drink, at times in all kinds
drink after the place they were
sweetened with sugar and of cocktails in, Daiquir. In the 1920s, during
hierba buena, a variety of American Prohibition, Cuba,
mint common in Latin America. This which had become an off limits
explosive mixture, jokingly called paradise for drinkers, developed and
draguecito or little dragon, is refined these early cocktails and went
probably the ancestor of the mojito, on to create others. In parallel, the role
one of the most famous Cuban of the professional barman (cantinero)
cocktails. In the early 1900s a Cuban acquired increasing importance.

Daiquir frapp is Mojito comes in a highball glass.

served in a chilled White cane sugar is mixed with
cocktail glass. White lime juice and a crushed stem of
rum is placed in an mint. To this is added white
electric blender and mixed rum, and the glass is
with one teaspoon of sugar, then filled with
five drops of maraschino, sparkling mineral
lime juice and crushed ice. water and chopped
Hemingway liked to drink this ice and the drink is
cocktail at El Floridita stirred. The temple
(see p277). of mojito is the
Bodeguita
del Medio
(see p276).
Cuba Libre is
made from rum
and Coca-Cola
mixed with ice Havana Especial is
and lime juice. The made with pineapple
drink was supposedly juice, silver dry rum, a
invented by US soldiers dash of maraschino and
who took part in the crushed ice, mixed and
Cuban wars of served in a tall, slim glass.
independence (1898). This cocktail has a very
The name, Free Cuba, delicate flavour.
comes from the
nationalists motto.

THE CANTINEROS CLUB

This club for professional barmen
(cantineros) was founded in Havana
in 1924 and sponsored by
a group of Cuban distilleries and
breweries. By the early 1930s the
club had a central office on the
Prado. The clubs aims remain
unchanged today: defence of
the interests of its members,
professional training for young Canchnchara is made
people (who are required to learn by the bar of the same
the recipes for at least 100 cocktails), name in Trinidad (see
and English lessons. The club also p182) with rum, lime,
currently promotes the Havana Club The Bodeguita del Medio honey and water. It is
International Grand Prix. barman with a mojito served in an
earthenware cup.
276 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

Choosing a Restaurant PRICE CATEGORIES (IN CUBAN

CONVERTIBLE PESOS CUC$)

These restaurants have been selected across a wide range For a three-course meal for one
including a cocktail, tax and service:
of price categories for their good value, quality of food and \ Under 10 CUC$
good atmosphere. In parts of Cuba, where there are no \\ 1015 CUC$
particularly recommendable restaurants, places that offer \\\ 1520 CUC$
\\\\ 2025 CUC$
at least good value have been included. Alternatives are \\\\\ Over 25 CUC$
hotel restaurants (see pp24869) and paladares (see p270).

HAVANA

HABANA VIEJA Gentiluomo z7 \

Obispo esq. Bernaza Tel (7) 867 1300 ext.134 Map 4 D2

This is the most conveniently located Italian restaurant in this part of town you will almost certainly pass this place
at some point, at the top of Habana Viejas busiest street. It serves average-quality pasta but generously topped
pizzas, and at as little as 3 CUC$, this is an inexpensive if somewhat soulless place to re-fuel.

HABANA VIEJA Hanoi 7f, \

Brasil (Teniente Rey) esq. Bernaza Tel (7) 867 1029 Map 4 D3
Without doubt the least expensive restaurant in Habana Vieja, this seemingly Cuban-Vietnamese place serves
standard-fare meat and seafood dishes, all cooked in the usual Cuban way. Paella and lobster, both at half the price
youd pay elsewhere, also feature on the menu. A series of plain but intimate rooms make up the dining area.

HABANA VIEJA Al Medina 7f, \\

Oficios no.12, e/ Obispo y Obrapa Tel (7) 867 1041 Map 4 F2

The key to making the most of this Lebanese restaurant, whether in the lovely canopied courtyard or under the brick
arches inside, is to not expect authentic Arabic food. Pollo Musukan or Samac Libanes might sound like exotic dishes but
are actually simply prepared meat and fish, grilled or fried without spices or sauces but with perfectly fresh ingredients.

HABANA VIEJA La Bodeguita del Medio zf, \\

Empedrado no. 207, e/ San Ignacio y Cuba Tel (7) 866 8857 Map 4 E2
The most famous restaurant in the city, this is definitely a tourist trap but at the same time has retained much of the alluring
character that made it so popular in the first place. Always packed, this grotto of narrow corridors and intimate corners is
never short on sociable atmosphere. The Cuban meat and seafood dishes are good but dont quite match the ambience.

HABANA VIEJA La Dominica z7f, \\

OReilly 108 esq. Mercaderes Tel (7) 860 2918 Map 4 E2

Theres a seafood slant at this decent Italian restaurant with smoked salmon on the starters menu, shrimp and lobster
pasta among the specials and a number of shrimp and squid dishes. The laid-back pavement caf is in contrast to the
chandeliers and polished floors of the refined, rather formal interior. Theres a good wine list here.

HABANA VIEJA La Julia 7 \\

OReilly no.506a, e/ Bernaza y Villegas Tel (7) 862 7438 Map 4 D2

This stalwart Habana Vieja paladar has been dishing out specialist pork dishes for years. Not much variety, but satisfying
portions and good-quality cooking. You step off the street directly into the dining room, so the less-than-private eating
experience, with people constantly poking their head around the door, wont suit everyone, but is idiosyncratically Cuban.

HABANA VIEJA La Mina 7f, \\

Oficios esq. Obispo, Plaza de Armas Tel (7) 862 0216 Map 4 E2
At the heart of the tourist circuit, this place is always buzzing with foreign clientele and is a lively place to experience
Cuban creole cooking. The fish, pork and chicken meals are surprisingly well priced given the touristy location and
there are seven dining areas to choose from, including the terrace on the square and a superior central courtyard.

HABANA VIEJA La Torre de Marfil 7, \\

Mercaderes, e/ Obispo y Obrapa Tel (7) 867 1038 Map 4 E2

This Chinese restaurant in the most spruced-up section of the old city has a red and black colour scheme and some
hearty, good-value chop sueys, including a vegetarian option. Soups are one of the specialities here, and all dishes
are served up on fine Oriental china. Theres an indoor pagoda and a simple central patio.

HABANA VIEJA El Baturro z7, \\\

Egido no.661, e/ Merced y Jess Mara Tel (7) 860 9078 Map 4 E4
The waiters at this rustic restaurant usually offer a set-meal menu featuring a cocktail, blackbean or chickpea soup, a
main dish of lobster, shrimp, beef or chicken with viandas, rice and salad, dessert and coffee. Though not overpriced,
you will be obliged to spend more than you would otherwise pay if you coax the la carte menu out of them.

Key to Symbols see back cover flap

 W H E R E T O E A T 277

HABANA VIEJA El Jardn del Edn , \\\

Hotel Raquel, Amargura esq. San Ignacio Tel (7) 860 8280 Map 4 E2
The only Jewish restaurant in the city. In the captivatingly elegant lobby of this fantastic hotel, this semi-formal place offers
a distinctive eating experience. Beetroot soup and Milanese eggplant stand out among the starters, with shashliks (kebabs)
featuring heavily in the main dishes. Unusual accompaniments like sweet and sour cabbage complete the picture.

HABANA VIEJA El Santo ngel 7f, \\\

Brasil (Teniente Rey) esq. San Ignacio, Plaza Vieja Tel (7) 861 1626 Map 4 E3
There are original uses of standard Cuban ingredients at this highly respectable restaurant, producing dishes like spiced
grilled chicken in peppermint and lemon sauce, or fish with toasted almonds. Choose from a table on the plaza, the
pleasant central patio or the graceful dining rooms in this historic building. The 20 CUC$ set meal is good value.

HABANA VIEJA El Patio z7f, \\\\

San Ignacio no.54, Plaza de la Catedral Tel (7) 867 1035 Map 4 E2
A seemingly endless succession of bands keep the only restaurant on the Plaza de la Catedral lively day and night. This is a
good place to try top-quality Cuban classics. The grilled lobster is expensive but very good, and the Ropa Vieja (shredded
beef) and Lonjas de pierna (slices of pork) are faithfully prepared. A choice of 11 rooms and a wonderful leafy patio.

HABANA VIEJA El Templete z7, \\\\

Avenida del Puerto no.12-14 esq. Narcisco Lpez Tel (7) 866 8807 Map 4 F2
This seafood specialist facing the harbour offers the best cuisine in Habana Vieja. Significantly, the head chef is Basque
and breaks all the Cuban norms with plenty of flavours and variety. From an impressive set of starters, like octopus a
la gallega, to simple mains like grilled sardines or fancier dishes like eel a la vasca, its all top quality.

HABANA VIEJA El Floridita z7f, \\\\\

Avenida de Blgica (Monserrate) esq. Obispo Tel (7) 867 1299 Map 4 D2
One of the plushest restaurants in this part of the city, beyond the classic bar where Hemingway famously used to
drink, has soft furnishings and soft lighting but hard prices. Fancy dishes like shrimp in orange cream sauce or
thermidor lobster characterize the menu, while the cocktail list is perhaps the most comprehensive in the city.

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Casa de Castilla z7 \

Neptuno no.519, e/ Campanario y Lealtad Tel (7) 862 5482 Map 3 C2

The simple creole cuisine on offer at this restaurant in the heart of Centro Habana is fresh, well prepared and tasty,
offering outstanding value for money. A sliding door at the back of a large entrance hall seals the dining room off
from the noise and heat of the busy street.

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Chan Li Po z, \

Campanario no.453, e/ Zanja y San Jos Map 3 C3

The hybrid menu at this characterful place, popular among the locals and off the beaten track near Chinatown,
includes pizzas, chop suey dishes and traditional Cuban cuisine. The staircase up from the street takes you into the
comfortable dining rooms, usually humming with chatter. The pizzas are huge.

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO A Prado y Neptuno z7f, \\

Paseo del Prado esq. Neptuno Tel (7) 860 9636 Map 4 D2
Some of the best, most authentic pizzas in the city are served up here on large wooden plates at this popular, down-
to-earth Italian eatery. There are some seafood main dishes and 14 pastas, but the real focus is on the 19 different pizzas.
Dimly lit, with a clubby vibe, this place is almost always bustling, even when neighbouring restaurants are dead.

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO El Fnix z \\\\

Animas no.273, e/ Aguila y Amistad Tel (7) 863 6334 Map 3 C2

Tucked away on the first floor of a typical neo-colonial Centro Habana building, this simple restaurant has a private,
almost exclusive feel. The food is above average for a paladar in both quality and price. Pork, fish, chicken and
lobster are all on the menu and come with well-prepared classic side dishes like congri and tostones.

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO La Guarida z, \\\\

Concordia no.418, e/ Gervasio y Escobar Tel (7) 863 7351, 866 9047 Map 3 B2
This paladar is special. Its original claim to fame as the top-floor apartment where the film Fresa y Chocolate was shot
has now been superceded by the reputation of its food and ambience. Whether the succulent mutton marinated in
papaya juice or the tuna la sugar cane, every dish is imaginative and flavourful. Three cosy, eclectically decorated rooms.

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Roof Garden f, \\\\\

Hotel Sevilla, Trocadero no.55, e/ Paseo del Prado y Agramonte Tel (7) 860 8560 ext.164 Map 4 D2
This ritzy gourmet restaurant on the ninth floor of the Hotel Sevilla owes its sense of occasion to the regal decor and
furnishings, featuring an ornately crafted high ceiling and panoramic views through its huge windows. The offerings
are vaguely French but definitely out-of-the-ordinary by Cuban standards, like rum lobster. Open from 7pm.

VEDADO El Conejito z7f, \

Calle M esq. 17 Tel (7) 832 4671 Map 2 E1

A red-brick lodge with a chimney stack and a mock-Tudor interior is not the usual Vedado edifice, and this isnt the usual
Cuban restaurant, with a menu dominated by rabbit dishes. They have found a surprising variety of ways to cook the little
critter, from roasting or grilling to serving it in garlic or mushroom sauce. Other meats and seafood are also available.
278 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

VEDADO La Casona de 17 z7f, \\

17 no.60, e/ M y N Tel (7) 838 3136 Map 2 E1

Located in a freshly painted neo-colonial building with a grand, columned terrace and first-floor balcony, the food
here is mostly Cuban, though there is a house paella made with shrimp, pork, chicken and fish. The Arroz con Pollo
(rice with chicken topped with peas) starter, another house speciality, is recommended.

VEDADO El Hurn Azul z7, \\\

Humboldt 153, e/ O y P Map 2 F2

Rated highly by locals, the setting of this paladar a ground-floor flat on a block of uninspiring apartment buildings is
fairly ordinary, but the menu is very impressive. A fantastic array of fish, chicken, rabbit, pork, lamb and rice options, many
in rich sauces, and a small selection of Italian-style dishes are followed by one of the best dessert selections in Havana.

VEDADO La Roca z \\\

21 esq. M Tel (7) 834 4501 Map 2 E2

The food here is good the grilled fillet of fish is a good choice, as is the better-than-average-value lobster, and beef
is prominent on the international and Cuban menu but more of a draw is the distinctive environment. Formal
black-tie service in an Art Deco dining space with coloured-glass panels that give off a soothing light.

VEDADO El Polinesio z, \\\\

Calle 23, e/ L y M Tel (7) 834 6131 Map 2 F2

Below the lobby of the Habana Libre hotel, but accessed from the street outside, there is a distinct basement flavour
to this moody, low-ceiling, bamboo-bedecked establishment that supposedly specializes in Polynesian food (Cuban-
Asian would be more accurate). Barbecued chicken is the house speciality.

VEDADO La Torre z, \\\\

Edificio Focsa, 17 e/ M y N Tel (7) 832 7306, 838 3089 Map 2 E1

There are spectacular views from this restaurant at the top of this vast apartment block. On offer is a broad selection of
good-quality Cuban and international fare, including seafood dishes like flame-grilled shrimp and various roasted or grilled
meats. The chocolate profiteroles are delicious. You can also just have a drink at the bar the bar food isnt bad, either.

VEDADO 1830 z7f, \\\\\

Malecn no.1252 esq. 20 Tel (7) 838 3090 to 92 Map 1 A3

At this magnificent mansion in its own private corner of Vedado on the waterfront near Miramar, a delectable selection
of cosmopolitan dishes is served, including duck in orange sauce and beef in blue cheese. The formal, attentive staff
match the sumptuous dining rooms, but the mood lightens on the terrace during the nightly music and dance shows.

GREATER HAVANA (COJMAR) La Terraza de Cojmar 7, \\\

Real no.61, Cojmar Tel (7) 766 5151

This restaurant is renowned for its Ernest Hemingway associations, and held more allure when it was frequented by
the late Gregorio Fuentes on whom the author based the protagonist in The Old Man and the Sea. You can still
enjoy seafood soup, shrimp and various fish dishes surrounded by photos of both men and some big local catches.

GREATER HAVANA (HABANA DEL ESTE) Los XII Apstoles z7f, \\\\

Castillo del Morro, Parque Morro Cabaa Tel (7) 863 8295
From the terrace of this restaurant at the foot of the El Morro fortress, there are pleasant views of Habana Vieja on the
other side of the bay. Traditional Cuban food is served behind a battery of 12 cannons (the 12 apostles in the restaurants
name). Somewhat at odds with the relaxing atmosphere, a karaoke bar-cum-nightclub operates nightly til 3am.

GREATER HAVANA (HABANA DEL ESTE) La Divina Pastora 7f \\\\\

Avenida Monumental, Parque Morro Cabaa Tel (7) 860 8341

Get a table out on the terrace from where you can enjoy the fantastic views of the city and bay the main reason
for making the trip here. The Cuban cuisine is reasonable but pricey. Theres a lobster tank here, so if you like your
shellfish fresh, this is a good option. The excellent live traditional music also makes a visit worthwhile.

GREATER HAVANA (JARDN BOTNICO NACIONAL) El Bamb 7, \\

Jardn Botnico Nacional, Carretera Roco Km 3.5, Calabazar Tel (7) 643 7278
Looking down onto the beautifully landscaped Japanese section of the Botanical Gardens, outside the city proper, this
excellent organic, vegetarian outdoor restaurant has one of the most serene settings in the whole of Havana. They operate
a buffet service, with herbs from the gardens flavouring the salads, rices and soups. Open lunchtime only, WedSun.

GREATER HAVANA (LA LISA) La Giraldilla zf, \\\

Calle 222 esq. Avenida 37, Reparto La Coronela Tel (7) 273 0568
On the western outskirts of the city, on a magnificent country estate, are the delightful dining areas of swanky La Giraldilla.
You can enjoy top-quality Cuban delicacies in the splendid dining hall where arched floor-to-ceiling windows create a
lovely light, on the fantastic leafy patio, or in the candle-lit wine cellar. Theres a cigar shop and nightclub here, too.

GREATER HAVANA (MIRAMAR) Don Cangrejo z7f, \\\

Avenida 1ra, e/ 16 y 18 Tel (7) 204 3837

This waterfront restaurant with outdoor tables right by the ocean is one of Havanas finest seafood specialists. The
large variety of dishes includes crab cooked in several styles, shrimp, lobster and its Gran Mariscada house special a
huge mixed seafood platter. It is run by the Ministry of Fisheries, guaranteeing that the fish here is as fresh as possible.

Key to Price Guide see p276 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O E A T 279

GREATER HAVANA (MIRAMAR) El Aljibe 7 \\\

Avenida 7ma, e/ 24 y 26 Tel (7) 204 1583

With a reputation for up-to-the-mark creole cooking going back many years, this top-class ranch-style restaurant is a
great place to sample some classic national dishes like Picadillo de Res (minced beef), Masas de Cerdo (hunks of pork)
and the house special, Pollo Asado El Aljibe (roast chicken in citrus juices). Plenty of rustic charm.

GREATER HAVANA (MIRAMAR) La Cecilia z7f, \\\

Avenida 5ta, e/ 110 y 112 Tel (7) 204 1562

Surrounded by and entwined with tropical plants, this is a subdued place to enjoy the mostly Cuban menu, except
when theres a tour group visiting. As well as a fine selection of typical pork, beef, chicken and fish dishes, the rarely
seen house special, Tamal en Cazuela, is a simple but delicious creamy maize soup. Theres a good wine list, too.

GREATER HAVANA (MIRAMAR) Tocororo z7f, \\\\\

Avenida 3ra y 18 Tel (7) 204 2209

This smart but laid-back eatery in a fabulously decorated Miramar mansion is a good place for foodies as theres no
fixed menu and the chefs will do their best to accommodate all requests. Effectively two restaurants in one, the emphasis
is mainly on creole ingredients, including live lobster, with a smaller Japanese section serving sushi and tempura.

GREATER HAVANA (PLAYA) La Ferminia z7f, \\\\\

Avenida 5ta no.18207 esq. 184, Reparto Flores Tel (7) 273 6786, 273 6555
In the decadent surroundings of what was once a residential mansion, there are four elegant private dining rooms
with windows onto the beautiful garden patio, which holds more tables. Topping the list of exquisitely prepared
international and Cuban food is La Espada Corrida, a full-on mix of six different tasty meats.

WESTERN CUBA

ISLA DE LA JUVENTUD El Cochinito 7f, \

Jos Mart esq. 24, Nueva Gerona Tel (46) 322 809
Cubans and foreigners alike are charged in normal pesos here, so the creole cuisine works out extremely cheap.
Right in the centre of Nueva Gerona, this is one of the best-known restaurants round these parts but dont assume
this translates to top-end cookery. Like at most peso restaurants the food is basic, but good value.

ISLA DE LA JUVENTUD La Insula z7, \

Jos Mart esq. 22, Nueva Gerona Tel (46) 321 825
The only place in Nueva Gerona that can justifiably claim to have a bit of class, this is the most popular restaurant
with tourists and has the most reliable meals in town. Their take on traditional Cuban dishes includes Pollo Insula, a
chicken dish in a sweet and sour sauce with butter, and Lomo Ahumado smoked loin of pork.

PINAR DEL RO Nuestra Casa \

Coln no.161, e/ Ceferino Fernndez

A meal here in one of the citys only two paladares feels like eating in a giant tree house, with several tables set out
on a roof terrace in the shadow of overhanging trees. Set meals of simply prepared chicken, fish or pork make up the
limited selection here. This is a basic operation but it still offers better food than in all the state restaurants in town.

PINAR DEL RO Rumayor 7f, \\

Carretera a Viales Km 1, Pinar del Ro city Tel (48) 763 007, 763 051
The best state restaurant in the provincial capital of Pinar del Ro is out of the way, on a woody patch of land on the
northern outskirts of the city. The smoked chicken is the best dish on a short menu, but the rustic surroundings of
this wooden lodge and its tribal imagery give it character. Ring ahead, as opening hours are sporadic.

SIERRA DEL ROSARIO Casa del Campesino 7 \\

Comunidad de Las Terrazas, Las Terrazas Tel (48) 578 555, 578 700
For a traditional farm meal, surrounded by animals, fruit trees and beehives, visit this farmers countryside house
where guests can help with the cooking, share with the family, walk around the house, or even ride on horseback
while waiting for the roast pork or chicken to be served. A nice experience.

SIERRA DEL ROSARIO El Romero z, \\

Comunidad de Las Terrazas, Las Terrazas Tel (48) 578 555 ext.129
This organic, predominantly vegetarian restaurant perched over the back of the village in an apartment block is a
rarity in Cuba, offering a comprehensive menu of genuinely tasty, imaginatively prepared and presented non-meat
dishes. Pures, soups, salads, pastas, ptes, egg dishes and more. Each dish comes in large, medium or small portions.

VIALES El Palenque de los Cimarrones 7f, \

Cueva de San Miguel, Carretera a Puerto Esperanza Km 36 Tel (48) 796 290
You can drive or walk around the outside of the mogote hill, behind which are the bohio roofs of this tour-group lunch-
only stop, but its more fun to go through the rock itself to the hideout location on the other side. Juicy chicken dishes and
other creole food make up the menu. Coincide with a tour group and youll get an Afro-Cuban show of music and dance.
280 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

VIALES Casa de Don Toms zf, \\

Salvador Cisnero, e/ Adela Azcuy y Carretera a Pinar del Ro Tel (48) 796 300
The only proper restaurant in the village at Viales, and one of few places open after dark, this ranch building surrounded
by attractive gardens is always full of guests. The house special, the Delicias de Don Toms a weighty combination of
meats and rice is not for the faint-hearted. For more delicate palates theres good-value lobster, fish, pork and chicken.

VIALES Las Terrazas z7f, \\

Hotel La Ermita Tel (48) 796 071 ext.216

The best-located restaurant in Viales is on a hillside balcony terrace at the back of this hotel complex, with stunning
views of the valley. There are a number of pricey but worthwhile lobster options on the Cuban menu and plenty of
cheaper dishes, most of them following the same grilled-meat formula so prevalent across the country.

CENTRAL CUBA WEST

CIENFUEGOS Dinos Pizza z7 \

Calle 31, e/ 54 y 56 Tel (43) 552 020

This plain, straighforward pizzeria right in the heart of the historic town centre offers great value medium-crust
pizzas and a few Cuban staples like chicken, pork and shrimp. Choose between a small and family-sized base and
add your own toppings for between 50 c and 4 CUC$ a pop. The small size is easily enough for one person.

CIENFUEGOS Caf Cienfuegos z, \\

Club Cienfuegos, Paseo del Prado, e/ Ave. 8 y Ave.12 Tel (43) 512 891 ext.112
In the palatial Club Cienfuegos building is this refined seafood restaurant with a classic saloon bar and high ceilings. Its
one of the best restaurants in Cienfuegos, if you want a sense of occasion. Fish, shrimp and lobster dominates the
menu but theres also vegetarian paella and several meat dishes. The 3 CUC$ entrance fee will be taken off your bill.

CIENFUEGOS El Criollito z7 \\

Calle 33 no. 5603, e/ 56 y 58 Tel (43) 525 540

Another menu-less paladar, the waiter will offer you chicken, pork or fish cooked to your requirements, each
accompanied by copious amounts of fried plantain chips, rice and salad. One of only two legal paladares in the
whole of Cienfuegos, and the more reliably open of the two thanks to the central location of this colonial house.

CIENFUEGOS Palacio del Valle zf, \\

Paseo del Prado esq. Ave. 0 Tel (43) 551 003

The ornate dining room in the magnificent Palacio del Valle is in keeping with the intricate Moorish architecture that
characterizes the whole building. The food isnt quite magnificent, but the seafood platter or the lobster are good
bets. Climb the spiral staircase to the delightful rooftop bar for views of the bay and city.

CIENFUEGOS 1869 z7, \\\

Hotel Unin, Calle 31 esq. 54 Tel (43) 551 020 ext.318

There are touches of refinement in this hotel restaurant, but it stops short of real elegance. Four central arches divide
the room in two, and there are examples of colonial-era furnishings. Theres a wide choice of traditional Cuban
dishes from picadillo and grilled meats to the La Unin Seafood Special of fish, shrimp, lobster and squid.

PENNSULA DE ZAPATA Punta Perdz , \\

Carretera de Playa Larga a Playa Girn Km 24

On a patchy section of secluded coastline, this boat-themed restaurant stands out like a sore thumb but serves up
some reasonable (if slightly overpriced) seafood dishes and, more notably, crocodile meat. One of the peninsulas
many tour-group stop-offs, the quality of food here is at least as good as that of the local hotel restaurants.

PENNSULA DE ZAPATA Rancho Benito , \\\

Caleta Buena, Playa Girn Tel (45) 915 589

Some 8 km (5 miles) down a bumpy track beyond the Playa Girn hotel resort is this seafront ranch-style restaurant on
a plot of land known as Caleta Buena. Its a wonderfully secluded and tranquil place for a seafood lunch. The open-
air grill sits just above a lovely, clear natural pool. The entrance fee to Caleta Buena will be deducted from your bill.

SANTA CLARA El Marino z, \

Carretera Central esq. Ave. Ramn Gonzlez Tel (42) 205 594
This canteen-like restaurant on a main road is known as a seafood specialist, but in reality there are just as many
meat dishes on the limited menu here. The real draw here is the low prices. Though the menu is priced in Cuban
pesos, you can pay the equivalent cost in convertibles.

SANTA CLARA La Concha z7, \

Carretera Central esq. Danielito Tel (42) 218 124

Consistently recommended by locals as the best state restaurant in the city, this billing is accurate but very much relative
to the low standards set by the competition. Here you will find basic pastas, pizzas and reasonable comida criolla
(creole food). A large school-style dining room with a tiled mural provides the basic setting.

Key to Price Guide see p276 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O E A T 281

SANTA CLARA Los Tanos z7f, \\

Hotel Los Caneyes, Avenida los Eucaliptos y Circunvalacin Tel (42) 218 140
The 8 CUC$ buffet in a reconstructed Tano lodge setting at this hotel is worth the trip to the low hills beyond the
southern outskirts of the city. With dishes based around pasta, traditionally prepared meat or plates for vegetarians
from the modest salad counter, it offers a selection of food way beyond anything on offer in the city centre.

SANTA CLARA Sabor Latino z7f \\\

Esquerra no.157, e/ Julio Jover y Berenguer Tel (42) 224 279

As the only official sit-down paladar in the city, they can afford to charge a little above the market rate here but its
worth the extra cost for the finest cooking in the city centre. Thoughtful presentation and extra touches mark out
the creole dishes here, for example by adding shrimp and cheese to their lobster dish and pineapple to the chicken.

VARADERO Albacora 7f, \\

Calle 59 y Playa Tel (45) 613 650

One of the better beachfront eateries in the centre of Varadero. This basic outdoor patio with plastic chairs and tables
and steps leading onto the sand offers simple, fresh Cuban food under the shade of a couple of trees. The pricier dishes
are lobster and a mixed seafood grill, while you can enjoy pork, beef and chicken selections at a quarter of the cost.

VARADERO Chong Kwok z7 \\

Avenida 1ra esq. 55 Tel (45) 612 460, 613 525

The floor-cushion seating and low tables at this Chinese restaurant are more authentic than the food, but there are
at least some chop suey dishes and a choice of stir-fried rice, all of it very reasonably priced. On the menu alongside
these are some remarkably Cuban-looking dishes, including grilled lobster at just under 20 CUC$.

VARADERO Dante z7, \\

Parque Josone, Ave. 1ra, e/ 56 y 58 Tel (45) 667 738

Unusually for an Italian restaurant in Cuba, the pasta dishes here are superior to the pizzas. That said, there are some
sauces to be avoided, like the carbonara which has a very odd kick to it, and others which are much more
dependable, like the bolognese. Ask for a table on the balcony over the lake for a wonderfully relaxing meal.

VARADERO El Bodegn Criollo z7f, \\

Avenida de Playa esq. 40 Tel (45) 667 784

With more character than most other restaurants in the town, this grey and red fairytale-style cottage with a small
collection of intimate spaces has more than a passing resemblance to the famous Bodeguita del Medio in Havana,
with walls full of scribbled signatures. Good-quality classic Cuban dishes.

VARADERO Esquina Cuba 7f, \\

Avenida 1ra esq. 36 Tel (45) 614 019

An open-air venue by the side of the road serving standard tasty comida criolla, this place suffers slightly from its unexotic
location but regains a little lost ground with the 1950s memorabilia scattered around, including a genuine white and
pink Oldsmobile and an old jukebox. Dine la carte or go for the excellent value all-you-can-eat buffet at 12 CUC$.

VARADERO Guamair z7 \\

Avenida 1ra, e/ 26 y 27 Tel (45) 611 893

A humble little wooden bungalow with a veranda facing the road and a set of very reasonably priced comida criolla
dishes. Along with lobster, chicken and pork dishes, you can order crocodile steak, a rare dish anywhere in Cuba
Guamair this is the only place in the town where you can find it.

VARADERO La Fondue (Casa del Queso Cubano) z7, \\

Avenida 1ra, e/ 62 y 63 Tel (45) 667 747

La Fondue offers a unique menu by Cuban standards, based loosely on French-Swiss cuisine. The simple formula here
is to cook everything with cheese. There are also less experimental dishes based on more familiar Cuban recipes. The
restaurant itself is in a pleasant roadside building with a Mediterranean villa interior.

VARADERO Mallorca z7, \\

Avenida 1ra, e/ 61 y 62 Tel (45) 667 746

The reputation of Mallorca as a Spanish restaurant is owed almost exclusively to the fact that its trademark dish is
paella, but the rest of the menu is Cuban. The excellent-value paellas come with either vegetables, shrimp, squid,
chicken or, for the house special, a mixture of all four. A smart but homely interior in a handsome villa.

VARADERO Pizza Nova z, \\

Plaza Amrica, Autopista del Sur Km 7 Tel (45) 668 585

A pizza chain restaurant in a shopping mall might not sound like a great place to eat, but with a lovely view of the
sea over tree tops from the balcony, and a good selection of appetizing thin-crust pizzas, this is actually a great
option. Theres a decent range of pastas, too, including the experimental Rigatoni la Vodka.

VARADERO Antigedades z7, \\\

Avenida 1ra esq. 59 Tel (45) 667 329

The marvellous interior decoration of this seafood specialist is an Aladdins Cave of antiques, furniture, pictures and
all sorts of curiosities hanging from the walls and ceiling. The cheapest dish at this eye-catching place to eat is
10 CUC$, making it relatively expensive but the quality of food is good.
282 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

VARADERO El Retiro z, \\\

Parque Josone, Ave. 1ra, e/ 56 y 58 Tel (45) 667 316

Housed in what was once the residence of wealthy financiers, theres still a slight air of class about this place, though
the staff are approachable and friendly. The speciality here is lobster, served whole or on skewers, garnished with
garlic or lemon or, in the case of the Gran Grillada, cooked and served with shrimp, beef and pork.

VARADERO La Campana zf, \\\

Parque Josone, Ave. 1ra, e/ 56 y 58 Tel (45) 667 224

Inside this restaurant with its rustic interior and large fireplace, theres a sense of being in an alpine lodge rather than in
the middle of Parque Josone, with the sweeping, wooded grounds laid out before it. Its also one of the better purveyors
of authentic creole cooking in Varadero. The house speciality is the Cuban classic, Ropa Vieja (shredded stewed beef).

VARADERO Steak House Toro zf, \\\

Avenida 1ra esq. 25 Tel (45) 667 145

Meat lovers will not be disappointed at this Canadian-Cuban joint venture offering North American-sized steaks. Lying
cellar-like, a few feet below street level, this is a stereotypical steak house with a wagon wheel and beer barrel central to
the decor. From six-ounce filets to 24-ounce chateaubriand at 38 CUC$, all appetites and wallets are catered for.

VARADERO Las Amricas z, \\\\\

Mansin Xanad, Autopista del Sur Km 7 Tel (45) 667 750, 667 877
A high-class establishment in the refined antique-furniture dining rooms of what was once a millionaires mansion,
the Mansin Xanad (see p262). Nowadays its an exclusive hotel and one of the best restaurants on the whole
peninsula, serving Cuban and international haute cuisine and with a fantastic wine list.

CENTRAL CUBA EAST

CAMAGEY Don Ronquillo f, \

Ignacio Agramonte no. 406 esq. Repblica Tel (32) 285 239
In the touristy Galera Colonial complex, a bar, shops and cabaret share an immaculately restored colonial residence with
this attractive restaurant where you can sample a number of traditional Camagueyan recipes. The local Bistec Mayoral
stands out sauted kidney served on toast in an onion and red wine sauce, a welcome break from the Cuban norm.

CAMAGEY La Campaa de Toledo 7f, \

Plaza San Juan de Dios Tel (32) 286 812

An 18th-century townhouse typical of the plaza where its found, with a large and leafy courtyard out back where
there are several tables. Chicken, pork and fish feature on one of the better menus in the city but for something a bit
different theres Boliche Mechado beef garnished with bacon served with fries and congr.

SANCTI SPRITUS Mesn de la Plaza 7 \\

Mximo Gmez no.34 y Honorato Tel (41) 285 46

This rustic restaurant reminiscent of a Spanish taberna has long wooden tables with benches, a wooden raftered ceiling
with wrought-iron hanging lamps and earthenware bowls at each table. The food is Cuban with a Spanish twist; the
house tipple is sangra and theres a delicious chickpea soup. The selection of main dishes features beef stewed with corn.

TRINIDAD Va Reale 7 \

Rubn Martnez Villena, e/ Piro Guinart y Ciro Redondo Tel (41) 996 476
It would be wrong to label Va Reale an Italian restaurant, but it is the only pizza specialist in Trinidad. A diminutive,
canopy-covered patio provides an alternative to the street-side main dining room in what is, by local standards, a
run-of-the-mill though well-restored colonial building. Grilled shrimp, lobster and steak dominate the menu.

TRINIDAD Estela \\

Simn Bolvar no.557, e/ Juan Manuel Mrquez y Jos Mendoza Tel (41) 994 329
Though this pleasant backyard paladar may not be the most sophisticated home-run restaurant in the city, many locals
regard it as serving the best Cuban food. In the cobbled historic centre with a split-level patio, the ambience is delightfully
tranquil. Accompanying the pork, chicken or fish mains are mountainous side orders of viandas, congr and salad.

TRINIDAD Trinidad Colonial z7f, \\

Maceo esq. Coln Tel (41) 996 473

Located in the most aristocratic colonial building in the city to have been converted into a restaurant, here you will
find one of Trinidads most extensive selections of creole cuisine. Shrimp in hot sauce stands out from the other
classic Cuban and creole dishes. Antique dressers and cabinets are dotted about the several grand dining rooms.

TRINIDAD Restaurante de Iberostar z7f, \\\\\

Iberostar Grand Hotel Trinidad, Jos Mart 262, e/ Lino Prez y Coln Tel (41) 996 073
The finest and most expensive food in the town by a country mile is found in the fantastically plush restaurant at the
Grand Hotel Trinidad. The buffet dinner is the biggest treat an opportunity to feast on international food simply
unheard of elsewhere such as beef carpaccio, salade nioise, serrano ham, smoked salmon and tiramis.

Key to Price Guide see p276 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O E A T 283

EASTERN CUBA

BARACOA Duaba z7f, \\

Hotel El Castillo, Loma de Paraso Tel (21) 645 165

Not to be confused with Finca Duaba in the nearby countryside, this restaurant in the wonderfully located Hotel El Castillo,
gazing over the town, is arguably the finest in Baracoa and one of the best places for local variations on traditional Cuban
cooking. Among these are chicken with maize and bacon or the fish and coconut speciality, Pescado a la Santa Brbara.

GUARDALAVACA Pizza Nova zf, \\

Near Club Amigo Atlntico Guardalavaca hotel, Playa Guardalavaca, Banes Tel (24) 430 137
This pizza chain does a decent job of giving each of its restaurants a look and feel of its own, in this case a smart
interior and a broad half-covered outdoor terrace backing onto sweeping, lawns with trees. The usual selection of
good-quality, thin-crust pizzas is available as well as numerous pastas and a few Cuban dishes, too.

HOLGUN Saln 1720 z7f, \\

Frexes esq. Mir Tel (24) 468 150

This standout restaurant in a magnificently refined colonial building offers the tastiest food in Holgun, a mixture of
international and Cuban delicacies. The plush surroundings enhance the experience, as do the names of the dishes, such as
Tesoros del Mar (Sea Treasures), a lobster, shrimp and fish combination, or Tres Reyes (Three Kings) a mixed meat grill.

SANTIAGO DE CUBA La Taberna de Dolores \

Aguilera esq. Maya Rodrguez, Plaza Dolores Tel (22) 623 913
The sombre, shadowy interior lends this place a distinct character. Downstairs is a bar and caf from where a hidden
staircase leads up to the restaurant on the first floor. The balcony seats, looking down on the Plaza Dolores, are the
nicest place to sit and order from the limited pork and chicken menu. Prices are officially in pesos, but check to be sure.

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Don Antonio z7f, \\

Jos Antonio Saco, e/ Porfirio Valiente y Maya Rodrguez, Plaza Dolores Tel (22) 652 307
Classic comida criolla in the smartest restaurant on Plaza Dolores, with wide-open shutters providing views across the
square from this single-floor colonial building. Compared to its neighbours, this joint also has the best selection of
dishes. As an alternative to the usual lobster, pork and chicken offerings, there is a tasty beef casserole.

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Las Gallegas \\

San Basilio no. 305 altos, e/ General Lacret y Hartmann Tel (22) 624 700
Just round the corner from Parque Cspedes is this first-floor paladar in a colonial house, now divided into
apartments. The house special is lamb in a subtle tomato sauce flavoured with spices and beer, and fried chicken and
a couple of pork variations can also be found on the menu. The best tables are squeezed onto the narrow balcony.

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Saln Tropical z, \\

Fernndez Marcan no. 310 (altos), e/ 9 y 10 Tel (22) 641 161

The tables at this impressive, professionally run paladar in suburban Santiago occupy a plant-filled rooftop patio from
where there are splendid views of the city; theres also a cosy indoor dining room. The unusually long menu includes
seven different pork variations, a couple of liver dishes, fish and chicken, all cooked with care and subtly garnished.

SANTIAGO DE CUBA El Morro 7f \\\

Carretera al Morro Km 7.5 Tel (22) 691 576

This outdoor restaurant, nesting on the edge of green cliffs by the fortress of the same name, has a truly spectacular
setting outside Santiago at the mouth of the bay. Its worth eating here for the superb mountain and sea views
alone. Theres a wide choice of seafood, chicken and pork and there are 10 CUC$ three-course set meals.

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Zunzn zf, \\\

Avenida Manduley no.159 esq. 7, Reparto Vista Alegre Viejo Tel (22) 641 528
On a broad, tree-lined avenue, in what used to be a very rich neighbourhood before the Revolution, is the 1940s mansion
housing this classy restaurant. Divided into five compact and well appointed dining rooms, the same restraint shown
in the decor characterizes the menu which has just six main courses, all original takes on traditional creole cooking.

SANTIAGO DE CUBA La Casona z7f, \\\\

Meli Santiago de Cuba, Calle M e/ 4ta y Avenida Las Amricas Tel (22) 687 070
If youre looking for good-quality international food, head for La Casona, the buffet restaurant in the citys most luxurious
hotel. In a huge dining hall, the choice is outstanding, with everything from raw meats ready to be cooked to your taste
to a well-stocked salad bar. The buffet costs 20 CUC$, excluding drinks. You pay in advance at the hotel reception.

SANTIAGO DE CUBA La Isabelica z7, \\\\

Meli Santiago de Cuba, Calle M e/ 4ta y Avenida Las Amricas Tel (22) 687 070
An intimate and formal little comida criolla restaurant on the edge of the central garden court in the Meli Santiago
de Cuba. Despite the high prices at the top end of the menu, you dont actually have to break the bank to eat here.
The curried chicken breast with plum and pineapple, for example, is only just over the 10 CUC$ mark.
284 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

SHOPS AND MARKETS

T ourists do most of their shop-

ping in state-run shops, often
in the hotels. However, the
legalization of limited private
enterprise has given a boost
not the place to look for designer
outlets. State-run shops offer
goods at fixed prices, which tend
to be on the high side, whereas
market prices are lower and
to the handicrafts and food may be negotiable. Cigars of
markets (mer cados agr o- guaranteed quality are sold
pecuarios). Until a few years Hand-made cigars on only in specialist shops and in
display for customers
ago there wasnt much to buy, hard currency shops. Be very
but now an improving range of sou- wary of buying cigars or anything else
venirs is available. All the same, Cuba is for that matter on the black market.
specializing in clothes
(though not designer ranges).
Tourist tiendas, especially in
hotels, sell T-shirts printed
with Cuban images including
the inevitable portraits of Che,
as well as guayaberas, typical
Caribbean cotton shirts.
In the El Rpido and
Rumbos (see p271) chains,
and in the Fotoservice shops
where film is sold and
processed, visitors can buy
soft drinks, rum, biscuits,
sweets, butter and milk, as
well as small household
utensils and articles normally
Handicrafts for sale at La Rampa market in Havana (see p98) found in perfume shops.
Fresh fruit, vegetables and
OPENING HOURS pesos). To buy pesos, go to one fresh meat are to be found
of the bureaux de change, only in the food markets.
Opening hours in Cuba are called CADECA, found in most
erratic but as a guideline city centres and often near the SPECIALIST SHOPS
tiendas (convertible pesos entrance to major food markets.
shops) are open 10am7pm in Cigars should be purchased
the summer and 9am6pm in WHERE TO GO either in the tiendas in
the winter, while small shops hotels or at the airport, or
open 9am6pm all year round. In the cities and tourist in the specialist shops, often
On Sundays, shops close at resorts, tiendas and known as La Casa
1pm. The fruit and vegetable supermarkets sell del Habano, which
markets are open on Sunday everything from sell cigars direct
mornings, closed on Mondays, cosmetics and from the cigar
then open Tuesday to Friday clothes to tinned factories (and
from 8am to around 6pm. Fast food, but do not The logo of a popular which may, in fact,
food chains El Rpido, Di T, carry the range of tiendas chain be attached to a
Burgui, and Rumbos (see p271) items seen in factory), and keep
are open 24 hours a day. European supermarkets. them at the right temperature
Tourist resorts and larger and humidity level. It is best
HOW TO PAY towns often have shops not to buy cigars from people

Most tourists will not use

the local currency, the peso
(see p307), at all during their
stay. Most goods that tourists
want to buy, from rum to CDs,
are only available in hard
currency shops (most of which
accept credit cards). In the
food markets, the locals use
mainly pesos but stall holders
will happily accept convertible
pesos (change may be in An outlet of the hard-currency Tiendas Panamericanas chain
 S H O P S A N D M A R K E T S 285

on the street, as they are

almost inevitably fakes made
by machine, rather than hand-
made, or are badly preserved
or bear signs of faulty work-
manship. In addition, street
vendors will not be able to
provide you with an official
purchase receipt, needed to
take goods out of the country.
Branches of the ARTex
chain stock a good selection
of CDs, records and cassettes.
Another well-stocked music
store is Longina, in Calle
Obispo, Habana Vieja. Note A squash stand in the Mercado de Cuatro Caminos, Havana
that recordings of local
music may not be available things from wood carvings In Havana, the most central
outside Cuba. and ceramics to embroidery, food market is in the Barrio
Paintings, papier mch Chino (see p90), but the
sculpture and prints objects and musical largest and most famous is
in the art galleries instruments. In the Mercado de Cuatro
and in the tiendas Havana there is a Caminos, south of the centre
of the Fondo de daily handicrafts at Mximo Gmez (Monte)
Bienes Culturales market behind the 256. The market is housed in
are sold with official Castillo de la Real a building constructed in
authenticity Fuerza and a 1922 and originally occupied
certificates, which second-hand book by stalls selling Chinese food.
will be needed Shelves with cigars market in Plaza de It takes up a whole block.
for export. in a Casa del Habano Armas (see p69). Today the market extends
There is also a out into nearby streets and
La Casa del Habano market on La Rampa in Vedado. includes stalls selling every-
Real Fbrica de Tabacos Partags, The market in Trinidad, thing from meat to dried
Havana. Tel (7) 862 3772. Ave 1, near the central square, is a fruit. There are also cheap
esq. 64, Varadero. Tel (45) 667 843. good place to look for restaurants and stalls selling
Shopping Center Marina Hemingway,
embroidered linen and cotton. fritters, fruit shakes and juice.
Havana. Tel (7) 204 6772. Crafts are also sold in state-
run shops, in the Ferias de Mercado de Cuatro
Tienda ARTex Artesana and in the Galeras Caminos
Ave. L esq. 23, Havana. Tel (7) 838
3162. Calle San Rafael 110 esq.
de Arte throughout the island. Mximo Gmez (Monte) 256, e/
Arroyo (Manglar and Matadero),
Industria, Havana. Tel (7) 860 8414. Havana. # TueSat, Sun am.
www.soycubano.com MARKETS

The fruit and vegetable A SOUVENIR IN

HANDICRAFTS markets (mercados FRONT OF THE
agropecuarios) in Cuba are
Cuba does not have a long lively and entertaining places CAPITOLIO
tradition of producing to stroll around. Stalls sell
handicrafts. Today, however, fresh fruit and vegetables,
market stalls are found every- pork and sausages, sweets, Photographer
where, selling all sorts of traditional food and flowers. with his old
Polaroid
camera

In front of the Capitolio

(see pp823) in Havana,
visitors can have their
picture taken with an
original 1930s Polaroid
camera, for one convertible
peso. The photos develop
immediately and the
resulting picture, in
black and white, looks
just like a convincingly
old photograph.
Embroidered table linen at the Trinidad market
286 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

What to Buy in Cuba

Apart from the famous Cuban cigars
and excellent rum, there are many
other good things to buy in Cuba: gold
and silver jewellery, and hand-crafted
Dancing
objects made from local materials: wood,
rag dolls
straw, papier mch, shells, seeds, terra-
cotta and glass. Cuban musical instruments
are also popular choices. There are also toiletries and
pharmaceutical products that are to be found nowhere
else in the world, on sale in the international pharmacies
and duty-free shops in the airport, where you can also
buy books, video cassettes and CDs.

Rum
This classic brand of
rum can be bought
all over Cuba. Bottles
are also sold in boxes
(especially at the
airport) to make them
easier to transport.

Bauza CIGARS
Cigars that Packaged in elegant cedar
do not meet the boxes, Cuban cigars make
rigorous standards a luxury gift (see pp323).
of the cigar-makers Make sure that the box has
are labelled Bauza. the branded label hecho in
However, they are still Cuba totalmente a mano (totally
of very good quality. hand-made in Cuba), the official
They are sold at A box of government seal, and the Habanos
authorized outlets at Vegas Robaina cigars band. If they do not, they are not genuine.
very reasonable prices.

Local Handicrafts
Raw material from the Caribbean (bamboo,
shells and seeds) is used to make rustic
household objects such as sonajeros,
decorative wall hangings, and
pretty, colourful necklaces.

A seed necklace
A seed and shell
necklace

Musical Instruments
Many traditional Cuban musical
instruments (see p31) such
as claves, bongos,
maracas, giro,
and tumbadora
drums are made by Hats and Baskets
craftsmen. They are Banana leaves and other plant
sold in music stores fibres are used to weave typical
and markets. Some, hats and baskets of various
such as guitars, can shapes and sizes: an affordable,
be made to order. Bongos classic souvenir.
 S H O P S A N D M A R K E T S 287

BLACK CORAL
Although the famous black coral from
Cuban reefs makes delightful jewellery
(earrings, rings, necklaces and pen-
dants), bear in mind that conservation
groups are anxious to discourage
the plundering of fragile reefs.
Authentic black coral commands
high prices. Cheaper black A cedar-wood cigar box
coral pendants sold in
handicrafts markets are
unlikely to be genuine.
A black coral
necklace

Silver and coral

earrings and pendants

PAPIER MACHE
The papier mch technique
is a recent introduction
to Cuba. It is used to
produce masks, models,
knick-knacks and toys.
These articles are always
African-style
painted in bright,
figures
decorative colours.
WOOD
A mask representing Cedar and rosewood
the sun are used to make small
wooden figures that
often draw inspiration from
African tradition. Carved
cedarwood cigar boxes
always display elegant
craftsmanship. Wooden
objects can also
be found on sale in
the Galeras de Arte.
Doll Model vintage cars

PERFUMES AND MEDICINES

The Suchel Camacho company produces very good
perfumes, including spicy Coral Negro, flower-scented
Mariposa and elegant Alicia Alonso, as well as quality
face and body creams, at reasonable prices. The
pharmaceutical sector is also in the avant-garde: PPG,
an anti-cholesterol drug obtained from sugar cane, is
also good for arteriosclerosis; shark
cartilage strengthens bones in children
and older people; and spirulina is a
food supplement derived from algae.
Excellent honey, with royal
jelly and propolis (bee-
glue), is also available.

Naf Paintings
The Galeras de Arte sell naf
paintings of Afro-Caribbean
inspiration depicting landscapes
and views of Colonial towns, Moisturizing
or Afro-Cuban divinities. Eau de toilette cream
288 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

ENTER TAINMENT IN CUBA

he possibilities for lively enter- or Casa de la Trova, hosting perfor-

T tainment are diverse in a

country where there is
tremendous love of music, dance
mances of traditional music. Visitors
opting for a vacation at Cubas many
all-inclusive beach resorts will find
and theatrical display. Ballet, canned entertainment mostly per-
theatre, concerts, festivals and formed by hotel staff. Beyond the
sporting activities are in full swing resorts, any street corner may
year round. In most major cities, easily be turned into an impro-
there are theatres and concert spaces, vised dance floor with just the help
and even in the smallest towns An Afro-Cuban of a cassette recorder, and
you will find a Casa de la Cultura dancer in Santiago discos abound everywhere.

be heard at Santiagos Teatro

Heredia; the more intimate
Sala de Conciertos Dolores is a
venue for smaller ensembles.

FOLK AND TRADITIONAL

MUSIC

Traditional Afro-based music

and dance thrives in the
provinces and is particularly
strong in Oriente and Trinidad,
where visitors should look for
splendid African-derived per-
formances by the Conjunto
Attractive faade of the Teatro Toms Terry in Santiago Folklrico de Trinidad, which
also performs Bantu and
INFORMATION & TICKETS during the Fiesta del Fuego in Yoruba dances outside Cuba,
July (see p35). The Teatro as does Trinidads Cocor y
Major tourist hotels distribute Papalote company, in su Ach, which performs at
brochures free of charge, but Matanzas, performs in its own the Palenque de los Congos
usually these refer only to the theatre and is acclaimed nation- Reales. Trinidad holds a
costliest tourist venues, and wide. The world-famous Grupo Semana de la Cultura (Culture
general information on cultural Teatro Escambray travels Week) each January, when
happenings and locales is throughout the island, perform- madrugadas, songs sung in
scant. A good online resource ing to rural communities. the streets, are performed.
is Cubarte: The Portal of Cuban Other major venues include Holguns Semana de la Cultura
Culture at www.cult.cu There the Teatro Toms Terry, in is perhaps Cubas most vibrant.
are no regional ticket offices, Cienfuegos; the Teatro la Santiago is the home of the
although tickets for major Caridad, in Santa Clara; and Conjunto Folklrico de Oriente
cabarets and international the recently restored Teatro and the Ballet Folklrico
events can usually be bought Principal, in Camagey. Cotumba, whose rehearsals,
at hotel tour desks. held from Tuesday to Sunday,
BALLET AND are open to the public. In the
THEATRE CLASSICAL MUSIC

Regional theatre is more Founded in 1967, the

restrained than in Havana. An acclaimed Ballet de Camagey
exception is Santiago its presents world-class classical
more than a dozen theatre dance productions in the
companies include several Teatro Principal (see Theatre).
experimental ones that, for Camagey is also home to the
years, have boldly sought new Ballet Folkrico de Camagey,
forms of expression. These one of Cubas foremost
can be seen at the El Mamb troupes. In the Oriente, Ballet
theatre or the Van Troi/Cabildo Folkrico Babul is based at the
Teatral Santiago hall. The Teatro Guaso in Guantnamo.
Jos Mart theatre is more Most provincial capitals have
traditional. The modern and theatres where classical music
prestigious Jos Mara Heredia performances are hosted. Performance by the acclaimed
theatre is particularly active Travelling symphonies can Ballet Folklrico de Camagey
 E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N C U B A 289

Most discos are based in the

tourist resorts, concentrated in
Varadero. These are large,
modern discos featuring loud
music (usually a mix of salsa
and other Latin sounds with
world-beat), neon lighting,
and simple decor. The entry
fee is in convertible pesos and
is usually quite expensive.
Several such discos are for
hotel patrons only. For these
reasons, the majority of the
customers are foreigners.
However, there is usually a
sprinkling of young Cuban
couples, as well as wayward
A traditional son band performing in a Trinidad street singles waiting outside in the
hope of partnering with a
courtyard of the Museo del Folkloric Festival where local foreigner for entry (occasional
Carnaval, rehearsals of groups songsters perform dcimas, police sweeps occur, when
preparing for Carnival (see ten-syllable rhyming songs. Cubans being too friendly
p229) are open to the public. with foreigners are arrested).
Dont miss the evening train- NIGHTCLUBS, CABARETS The best such clubs in
ing sessions in the various & DISCOTHEQUES Varadero are Mambo Club, the
focos culturales from Tuesday Club Nocturno Havana Club,
to Friday. The Cabildo Most tourist villages and large- and Palacio de la Rumba. All
Carabal Izuama rehearses scale hotels in Cuba have clubs three are popular with
Carnival songs derived from that open until late. Customers Cubans, who often travel
African musical traditions, pay in convertible pesos; many miles to party until
while in the foco cultural, depending on location, Cubans dawn. The most unusual
founded by Haitian slaves in may be barred, so dont expect venue is Trinidads Disco
the late 1700s, 18th-century to find a broad cross-section Ayala, deep inside a cave.
dances are accompanied by of Cuban society. You can also listen to
Bantu musical instruments. Outside tourist resorts, most modern msica popular in
Here, too, both the Casa del nightclubs are associated with Casas de la Msica in a few
Caribe and Centro Cultural cabarets. The most important major cities. The principal
Africano Fernando Ortz hold are the Tropicana, in both venue, the Casa de la Msica
rumbas on weekends (see Matanzas and Santiago. Show- de Trinidad, hosts concerts by
p290: Cultural Centres). girls also kick up their heels local groups. Several open-air
Guantnamo is the birthplace at Santiagos touristy Cabaret ruins in Trinidad are also used
of many traditional dance San Pedro del Mar. Varadero as nightclubs. The Casa de la
forms, including changu, and also offers two excellent Msica de Cienfuegos is also
is home to the annual cabarets espctaculos: the bursting with energy on
December Festival Nacional large-scale Cabaret Continental, weekends; and the Club
de Changu. At other times, and the Cueva del Pirata, Benny Mor is a 1950s-style
changu and its derivative, where shows are held in an nightclub with disco following
son, are performed by the atmospheric natural cave. comedy and cabaret.
world-famous Orquestra Rev Every other major town has at Santiagos venues come and
and other leading local least one cabaret, which turn go, but two venerable hot-spots
proponents at the Casa de la into nightclubs with dancing are the Patio de Artex, and
Msica, the Casa de la Trova once the show ends. Sala de Fiestas La Iris.
(see p290: Casas de la Trova)
and the British West Indian
Welfare Center.
The Casa de la Cultura in
Pinar del Ro is known for its
controversias, a form of song
in which two singers pit them-
selves against each another in
creative impromptu verse.
The Casa de la Cultura in
Nueva Gerona is a centre for
the local music and dance
form known as sucusuco,
unique to the Isla de la
Juventud. And Las Tunas has
an annual Jornada Cucalamb One of the Tropicana dancers in a typically exotic costume
290 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

host cultural debates, art

shows and music shows, as
well as poetry readings.

CHILDREN

Cuba has plenty of childrens

playgrounds, including rather
basic fairgrounds in Santiago
and other major cities. The
most complete fairground is
Varaderos Todo En Uno, which
has a tiny roller-coaster,
carros locos (bumper cars)
and other attractions. Nearby,
Live music and dancing at an intimate Casa de la Trova Parque Retiro Josone (see
p162) has a miniature train,
CASAS DE LA TROVA Oramas El Guayabero plus camel rides among its
Osorio still performs. attractions for children. At the
The traditional and intimate In some towns, traditional Delfinario de Varadero, daily
Casas de la Trova are clubs trova activities are held in the dolphin shows delight
where people can listen to Casas de la Cultura, charged children; swimming with these
live music, dance or just relax with a more broadly based creatures is also permitted.
over a cocktail. First opened mandate to preserve traditional Cuba has three other
in 1959 in almost all Cuban culture. In Baracoa and Sancti provincial dolphin shows:
provincial capitals, these were Spritus, for example, they put at Delfinario de Rancho
originally places where older on performances by Luna, near Cienfuegos;
musicians, interpreters of repentistas (improvisers). The Acuario Cayo Naranjo, at
traditional trova, could Casa de la Cultura in Pinar del Guardalavaca; and Acuario
perform and educate younger Ro hosts performances of Baconao (see p235).
people in their musical skills. punto guajiro, country-style Children will also enjoy the
Today, Casas de la Trova are music centred around small zoos in Ciego de vila,
found in virtually every town improvisation. Sancti Spritus, and Santiago.
and even in rural villages and A less touristy alternative to And several cities notably
are usually the most the Casa de la Trova is the Santa Clara and Bayamo
important musical venues. Casa de las Tradiciones in have goat-drawn cart rides for
Many also organize lectures, Santiago, a good place to see children in the main squares.
conferences, poetry readings up-and-coming local groups. The Teatro Guiol de
and art exhibitions, thus Holgun is a puppet theatre
maintaining their original CULTURAL CENTRES founded in 1959. All year
spirit as keepers of tradition. round, plays and puppet
In some places, such as in The Casa de la Cultura is an shows are performed, as they
Santiago and Trinidad, Casas institution in every Cuban are in many other cities.
de la Trova have geared city. These cultural centres Holiday villages provide safe
themselves to tourists, with a foster various forms of artistic play areas for small children,
bar offering different Cuban expression: the figurative arts, as well as shallow swimming
cocktails, and a shop selling poetry and music. Trinidad pools; Cuban families are not
CDs, DVDs, books and and Santiago are the most allowed, so dont expect your
souvenirs. Whatever the style, active cities culturally. child to be able to mix if you
Casas de la Trova continue to In Santiago, those interested opt for a beach resort holiday.
be popular with Cubans of all in anthropology and religion
ages and offer plenty of can visit the Centro Cultural
atmosphere. Africano Fernando Ortz,
The most important Casas dedicated to the African
de la Trova are in Santiago, influences in Cuba, and the
home of son, and Trinidad, Casa del Caribe, which org-
where the classical tradition anizes an annual Caribbean
of the trova prevails. The Cultural Festival. The eclectic
trova at Bayamo has a faster fare at the Ateneo Cultural
rhythm and stronger Afro- ranges from poetry readings
Caribbean overtones, while to rap performances.
Camagey focuses more on UNEAC (National Writers
melodic tunes. Some Casas de and Artists Union), with
la Trova are associated with branches in a number of cities,
venerated musicians, such as puts on exhibitions, confer-
Casa de la Trova El ences and concerts. The
Guayabero in Holgun, Holgun and Santiago branches Swimming with a dolphin at the
where the esteemed Faustino are particularly active and Acuario Cayo Naranjo
 E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N C U B A 291

DIRECTORY
THEATRE FOLK & TRADI- Casa de la Msica Casa de las
TIONAL MUSIC de Cienfuegos Tradicines
El Mamb Calle 37 e/ Av. 4 y 6. Calle Rab 154, Santiago
Calle Bartolom Mas Ballet Folklrico Tel (43) 552 320. Tel (22) 653 892.
303, Santiago de Cuba. Cutumba
Calle Saco 170, Santiago Casa de la Msica Holgun
Grupo Teatro de Trinidad
de Cuba. Tel (22) 620 922. Calle Maceo 174.
Escambray Calle Rosario 3, Casco
La Macagua, Manicaragua. British West Indian Histrico. Pinar del Ro
Tel (42) 491 494. Welfare Center Tel (41) 996 622. Gerardo Medina 108.
Serafn Snchez 663, Tel (48) 754 794.
Jos Mara Heredia Club Benny Mor
Ave. las Amricas, Santiago e/ Paseo y Narciso Lpez, Sancti Spritus
Avenida 54 2907, e/ 29 y
de Cuba. Tel (22) 641 124. Guantnamo. Casa de la Cultural,
31, Cienfuegos.
Tel (21) 325 297. Zerquera esq. Ernest
Jos Mart Tel (43) 551 105.
Cabildo Carabal Valdes.
Calle Flix Pea 313, Club Nocturno
Santiago de Cuba. Izuama Santiago
Havana Club
Tel (22) 620 507. Calle Po Rosado, e/ San Heredia 208.
Centro Comercial Copey,
Mateo y San Antonio, Tel (22) 623 943.
Teatro la Caridad Calle 62 final, Varadero.
Santiago de Cuba.
Calle Marta Abreu, e/ Mx- Tel (45) 611 807. Trinidad
imo Gmez y Lorda, Santa Casa de la Cultura Calle Echerr 29.
Cueva del Pirata
Clara. Tel (422) 205 548. Calle 24 esq. 37, Tel (41) 996 445.
Autopista Sur, Km 11,
Nueva Gerona.
Teatro Papalote Varadero.
Tel (46) 323 591. CULTURAL CENTRES
Calle Daoz y Tel (45) 667 751.
Ayuntamiento, Matanzas. Casa de la Cultura Mambo Club Ateneo Cultural
Tel (45) 244 672. Marti 65, Pinar del Ro. Flix Pea e/ Castillo
Club Amigo Varadero,
Tel (82) 752 324. Duany y Diego Palacios.
Teatro Principal Carretera Las Morlas.
Padre Valencia 64, Casa de la Msica Tel (45) 668 565. Tel (22) 651 969.
Camagey. Calixto Garca e/ Crombet Centro Africano
Palacio de la Rumba
Tel (32) 293 048. y Gulo, Guantnamo. Hotel Bella Costa, Ave. las Fernando Ortz
Teatro Toms Terry Tel (21) 327 266. Amricas, Varadero. Manduley esq. Calle 5,
Plaza Mart, Cienfuegos. Conjunto Folklrico Tel (45) 668 210. Santiago de Cuba.
Tel (43) 513 361. de Oriente Tel (22) 642 487.
Patio de Artex
Van Troi/Cabildo Calle Hartmann 407, Heredia 304, Santiago de Casa del Caribe
Teatral Santiago Santiago de Cuba. Cuba. Tel (22) 654 814. Calle 13 154, Santiago de
Calle Saco 415, Santiago Cuba. Tel (22) 642 285.
Jornada Cucalamb Sala de Fiestas La Iris
de Cuba. Tel (22) 626 888. Ciego de vila. UNEAC de Holgun
Aguilera 617, e/ Plcido y
Tel (31) 47 770. Monseor Bernada, Libertad 148.
BALLET & Tel (24) 474 066.
Santiago de Cuba.
CLASSICAL MUSIC Museo del Carnaval
Tel (22) 654 910.
Heredia 304, Santiago de
Ballet Folkrico CHILDREN
Cuba. Tel (22) 626 955. Tropicana de
Babul Matanzas Acuario Baha
Paseo 855 e/ Cuartel y Palenque de los Autopista Varadero Km Naranjo
Ahogados, Guantnamo. Congos Reales 4.5. Tel (45) 265 555. Carretera a Guardalavaca.
Tel (21) 327 940. Echerri 146, esq. Jess
Tropicana de Tel (24) 430 439.
Menndez, Trinidad.
Ballet Folkrico Santiago
de Camagey Tel (41) 994 512. Delfinario de
Autopista Nacional Km Rancho Luna
Calle Pobre, esq. Triana,
NIGHTCLUBS, 1.5. Tel (22) 686 034. Carretera a Pasacaballo.
Camagey.
CABARETS & Tel (43) 548 120.
Tel (32) 293 048. CASAS DE LA
DISCOTHEQUES
TROVA Delfinario de
Sala de Conciertos
Dolores Cabaret Continental Varadero
Hotel Varadero
Baracoa Autopista Km 11. Vara-
Aguilera, esq. Maya Rod-
Calle Maceo 149. dero. Tel (45) 66 8031.
rguez, Santiago de Cuba. Internacional, Varadero.
Tel (22) 653 857. Tel (45) 667 038. Bayamo Teatro Guiol
Calle Mart esq. Maceo. Mart 119, e/ Libertad y
Teatro Heredia Cabaret San Pedro
Tel (23) 425 673. Maceo. Tel (22) 628 713.
Ave. las Amricas, esq. del Mar
Ave. de los Desfiles, Carretera del Morro Km Camagey Todo En Uno
Santiago de Cuba. 7.5, Santiago de Cuba. Calle Cisneros y Mart. Autopista Sur y Calle 54.
Tel (22) 643 834. Tel (22) 69 1287. Tel (32) 291 357. Varadero.
292 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

Spectator Sports
After the revolution, the government abolished
professional sports and invested large amounts of
money in physical education and amateur sports, and
as a result some outstandingly successful sportsmen and
women have emerged. Baseball and boxing are by far
the most popular sports (baseball is virtually a national
obsession), but volleyball, basketball, football and
athletics are also widely practised. Major sporting events The Cuban national womens
are held in Havana and televised throughout the island. volleyball team in action

INFORMATION Deportiva in the Boyeros been active in the profession

AND TICKETS district hosts national and inter- since 1960, producing such
national volleyball, basketball, greats as Tefilo Stevenson,
It is both easy and cheap to boxing and fencing matches. the Olympic heavyweight
go to a baseball game; champion, who has since
in fact, tickets cost only a few BASEBALL set up his own school.
Cuban pesos, which is less At the annual Girardo
than a dollar. Tickets can This is the national sport. Crdova Cardn tournament,
be purchased directly at It has been a passion expert boxers fight against
the stadium box office just here for over a century, emerging ones; this is part of
before the game. and todays teams are world- the selection procedure for the
The major stadiums have class. The first baseball Equipo Cuba, one of the best
specially reserved seating stadium in Havana was boxing teams in the world.
areas for foreign spectators. built in 1881 and the first Fights can be seen at the
amateur championship was Sala Kid Chocolate, located
MULTI-PURPOSE held in 1905. The official opposite the Capitolio in
SPORTS ARENAS baseball season is from Centro Habana.
November to March, and
A new stadium, the Estadio games are played on DIRECTORY
Panamericano sports Tuesday, Wednesday and
complex, was built in the Thursday at 8pm, on MULTI-PURPOSE
Habana del Este quarter of Saturdays at 1:30 and 8pm SPORTS ARENAS
the capital for the 1991 Pan- and on Sundays at 1:30pm.
American Games. It is now a Watching a game is fun; Coliseo de la Ciudad
major venue for athletics. many families attend and Deportiva
Cuba has produced some there is always a good Ave. de Rancho Boyeros
great athletes, including Javier atmosphere. Games are
y Va Blanca, Havana
Sotomayor, Ana Fidelia Quirot played in the Estadio Latino-
and Ivan Pedroso (see p19). americano, inaugurated in Tel (7) 648 7047.
The centre also has pools 1946, which has a seating
Estadio Panamericano
for swimming competitions, capacity of 55,000.
water polo and synchronized Carretera de Cojmar, km 1.5.
swimming, tennis courts BOXING Tel (7) 766 4140.
and a velodrome.
Sala Polivalente
The Sala Polivalente Cuba has won several
Ramn Fonst in Centro Olympic boxing titles. Ramn Fonst
Habana specializes in volley- The founder of the modern Ave. Rancho Boyeros
ball and basketball, while the school of boxing is Alcides y Bruzn, Havana. Map 2 E4.
Coliseo de la Ciudad Sagarra, a trainer who has Tel (7) 8820 000.

BASEBALL

Estadio Latinoamericano
Pedro Prez 302, El Cerro,
Havana.
Tel (7) 8706 526, (7) 870 6576.

BOXING

Sala Kid Chocolate

Paseo de Mart (Prado) y Brasil,
Havana. Map 4 D3.
Tel (7) 8628 634.
Cubas national baseball team during a game
 S P O R T S A N D O U T D O O R A C T I V I T I E S 293

Outdoor Activities they need on site; however, it

is advisable to bring along
The varied Cuban landscape allows for indispensable items such as a
a wide range of outdoor activities. depth gauge and a knife.
Facilities for a variety of water sports Underwater photographers
along the coast are increasingly good, are advised to bring spare film
and batteries, as these items
particularly in the north, and mountain may be in scarce supply.
The logo of
ranges and nature parks have just as The most important diving
Cubadeportes much to offer. Tourist centres are centres (centros de buceo)
equipped with exercise gyms, swimming are El Colony on Isla de
pools and tennis courts, and also organize trekking and la Juventud (best suited to
horse riding excursions. For athletes and fitness fanatics experienced divers), the
who want to stay in good shape, the state-run Cuba- Centro de Buceo Mara
La Gorda, Acua at Varadero,
deportes organization makes it possible to experience
and the Centro de Buceo
Cuban sports at first-hand by arranging meetings with Meli at Cayo Guillermo. It is
local athletes and the provision of special courses. possible to dive from the
shore at Playa Santa Luca and
Playa Girn, two other prime
dive sites.
The Jardines de la Reina
islands are also wonderful
places to dive, although they
can only be reached by sea,
and still have no tourist
facilities to speak of: only a
rather plain floating hotel.
Cruise yachts take scuba
divers to sites with unspoiled
Beach volleyball at a tourist village on Cayo Largo sea floors, where sea turtles
can be seen.
DIVING with the guides and instruc- For information concerning
tors from the Sharks Friends diving in general, contact
With 5,746 km (3,570 diving centre. Cubanacn Nautica.
miles) of coastline and over There are also fascinating
4,000 small islands, Cuba is shipwrecks to explore. In the SURFING AND
one of the supreme places in past the islands bays were WINDSURFING
the Caribbean for diving used as refuges for pirate gal-
enthusiasts. The crystal-clear leons, and in some areas, At the main seaside resorts
water (with a temperature such as Playa Santa Luca, (Varadero, Guardalavaca,
ranging from 2330 C, divers can still see anchors Cayo Largo, Cayo Coco and
7085 F) and variety of sea and cannons relics of 19th- Marea del Portillo) conditions
beds in particular make the century and even more recent are ideal for surfing and
Cuban sea a paradise for ships lying on the sea floor. windsurfing, and at the
scuba divers at any time of Underwater tunnels and larger holiday villages
year. Thanks to the coral grottoes add to the attractions. all the necessary equipment
reef and numerous offshore The development in tourism can be hired.
islands (cayos), there are no has triggered the
strong currents along the coast opening of new diving
and the horizontal visibility centres and the
under water is hardly ever updating of existing
less than 40 m (130 ft). ones. As a result,
There is an abundance of virtually every resort
sites along the coral reef has at least one centre.
for both wall and platform Scuba centres have all
dives. Besides all kinds of the latest facilities as
coral, on the sea bed divers well as trained
can see gorgonian fans and international-level
sponges, multicoloured instructors, and offer
fish (see p147), tarpons, courses for all levels of
barracuda, sea turtles, large ability. Some, such as
lobsters, beautiful anemones, the Hotel Colony on
and perhaps even sharks. Isla de la Juventud
A family of pelagic sharks (see p150), also have
lives in the Boca de Nuevitas decompression
(near Playa Santa Luca), chambers. Divers can A scuba diver exploring a shipwreck off
and the area can be visited hire all the equipment the Playa Santa Luca (see p206)
294 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

FISHING CYCLING

Fishing enthusiasts will be Touring the island by

in their element in Cuba. bicycle is an excellent way
The northwestern coast is to enjoy the landscape and
marvellous for deep-sea meet local people. The
fishing, where the catch might bicycles offered for rent to
include swordfish, tuna or tourists (by larger hotels and
mackerel, while fish such as most holiday villages) are of
tarpon can be caught off the better quality than those the
southern coast. locals have to use. Cycling
Fishing is often one of the is not usually dangerous,
many activities provided by particularly outside the towns
marinas and holiday villages. where traffic is light. Beware,
Holidays tailor-made for however, of potholes in the
fishermen are organized road. Fortunately, there are
by the Havanatur Pesca plenty of roadside workshops
y Caza company. (talleres), where repairs can
In May, the Marina be carried out.
Enjoying the sea on a catamaran Hemingway (see p137) is the Bikes should always be
hired from a tourist marina venue for the Ernest Heming- locked or left in supervised
way International Marlin places (thefts are common),
SAILING AND Fishing Tournament, a compe- and remember to wear a
MOTORBOATS tition reserved for expert marlin helmet. Mountain bikes are
fishermen. The original rules best for rough terrain.
Thanks to its position at the were established by the
entrance to the Gulf of American author, who had a
Mexico, Cuba makes an ideal passion for deep-sea fishing.
stopping-off point for yachts The freshwater lakes and
and sailing boats. The tourist rivers around the island are
marinas, many of which very good for trout fishing.
belong to the Marinas
Marlin chain (see p250), TENNIS AND GOLF
provide a series of facilities
and services, including motor- Almost all the holiday
boats and catamarans for hire villages and large hotel
and yacht excursions. complexes have tennis courts.
Most sailing is done around Non-residents usually make
the Archipilago de los use of them by paying a fee.
Canarreos, south of the main- The island also has two
land. The best season for good golf courses: the nine-
sailing is from December to hole Club de Golf Habana Hikers on a path near Topes de
April, because the climate is and the 18-hole Club de Golf Collantes (see p187)
mild, the winds are not too Las Amricas at Varadero.
strong, and storms infrequent. The sport is increasingly HIKING, EXCURSIONS
However, Cuba is surrounded popular and there are plans AND BIRDWATCHING
by generally tranquil waters, to lay out even more golf
and there are plenty of bays courses in the main tourist Trekking on horseback is
if shelter is needed. resorts in the near future. another very enjoyable
way to see the Cuban
landscape. In Havana the
only horse riding centre is in
Parque Lenin (see p116), but
hotels in the main resorts,
eco-tourist centres and
camping sites can provide
horses as well as organized
excursions. Both experienced
and inexperienced riders are
catered for.
Until recently, the only
opportunities for hiking
either with official guides or
on well-marked trails were
in the areas of Viales, Topes
de Collantes and Sierra
Maestra (from Alto de Naranjo
Varaderos golf course, close to the sea to Las Cuevas). However, in
 S P O R T S A N D O U T D O O R A C T I V I T I E S 295

recent years eco-tourist ecosystem is a haven for HUNTING

principles have been hundreds of different bird
spreading to all parts of Cuba species. Migratory birds may Cubans enjoy the thrill of
and programmes have been also be seen in season. hunting and the island has a
devised to cater for a wider For information, contact number of hunting reserves
range of interests, such as Gaviota Tours and Ecotur; (cotos de caza), where people
speleology, botany and bird- the latter organization are allowed to hunt birds and
watching. The Pennsula de oversees the upkeep and small animals within
Zapata (see pp1647) is a improvement of the trails, rigorously defined limits and
particularly good area for and also arranges nature under the supervision of the
birders, since the marshland tours and programmes. forest rangers. The reserves
are usually sited near lagoons,
lakes or cays, and hunting is
for wild duck, snipe, guinea
fowl and pigeons, among
other birds. In general, it
is possible to hire all the
equipment needed for
hunting at these reserves,
although prices can be high.
The hunting season is from
the end of October until the
middle of March.
Cuba has no specialist
hunting trip agencies, but
Havanatur Pesca y Caza
offers some organized
holidays that include an
Horse riding among the mogotes in the Valle de Viales element of hunting.

DIRECTORY
DIVING SAILING AND Marina Santa Luca GOLF
MOTORBOATS Playa Santa Luca, Cama-
Acua Club de Golf
Marea del Portillo gey. Tel (32) 336 317.
Ave Kawama 201,
Marea del Portillo, Piln. Habana
e/ 2 y 3, Varadero. Marina Santiago
Tel (23) 597 008. Carretera de Vento km 8,
Tel (45) 668 063. Ave 1, Punta Gorda,
Capdevila.
Centro de Buceo Marina Cayo Coco- Santiago de Cuba. Tel (7) 338 919.
Meli Guillermo Tel (22) 691 446. Fax (7) 338 820.
Cayo Guillermo. Cayo Coco, Archipilago
Jardines del Rey. Marina Tarar
Tel (33) 301 627.
Tel/ Fax (33) 301 737. Via Blanca km. 18, Playa Club de Golf
Centro de Buceo Tarar, Havana. Las Amricas
Mara La Gorda Marina Cayo Largo
Tel (7) 796 0242. Ave. Las Amricas,
Cayo Largo.
La Bajada, Varadero.
Pinar del Ro. Tel (45) 248 384 (may be Marina Trinidad Tel (45) 667 788.
Tel (48) 778 131. closed due to hurricane
Carretera Mara Aguilar, Fax (45) 668 180.
damage, phone ahead).
Playa Ancn.
Cubanacn Marina Chapelin Tel (41) 996 205. TREKKING AND
Nautica Carretera de las Morlas, BIRDWATCHING
Calle 184 n. 123, km 21, Varadero. Marina Drsena
Reparto Flores, Tel (45) 667 550. Varadero
Havana. Ecotur
Carretera de las Morlas km
Tel (7) 273 6675. Marina Ave Boyeros 116 esq.
Guardalavaca 21, Varadero.
Fax (7) 273 7520. Santa Catalina, Havana.
Playa Guardalavaca, Tel (45) 667 755. Tel (7) 641 0306.
El Colony Holgun.
Carretera de Siguanea, Fax (7) 648 7649.
Tel (24) 430 185. FISHING
km 41, Isla de la Juventud.
Tel (46) 398 181. Marina Hemingway AND HUNTING Gaviota
Fax (46) 398 420. Ave. 5 y 248, Santa Fe, Tours
Playa, Havana. Havanatur
Edificio La Marina, level 3,
Sharks Friends Tel (7) 2041 150. Pesca y Caza Ave del Puerto 102 e/
Hotel Brisa Santa Luca, Edificio Sierra Maestra,
Playa Santa Luca, Marina Jstiz y Obrapa,
Internacional Vita Calle 1, e/ 0 y 2, Playa, Havana. Map 4 F2.
Camagey.
Tel (32) 336 317. Baha de Vita, Holgun. Havana. Tel (7) 869 5773.
Fax (32) 336 255. Tel (24) 430 445. Tel (7) 203 9783. Fax (7) 869 5774.
 SURVIVAL
GUIDE

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 298307

TRAVEL INFORMATION 308315
298 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

PRACTICAL INFORMATION
n the last 20 years Cuba has made tion as tourist offices, providing prac-

I great strides in the field of tourism tical information and often a booking
and can now provide visitors with service. However, although Cuban
modern, international-level facilities. It tourist operators are very good, visitors
is now possible for tourists to still need to be adaptable and
move about much more eas- flexible. The pace of life here
ily on the island, although is slow, as is the bureau-
advance planning is still cracy, so be prepared to
essential, especially as waste a certain amount of
regards transport around the Logo of the Cuban time when trying to get things
island. An effective approach Tourist Board done. Whatever happens, try
is to contact one of the many and remain optimistic. With
travel agencies in Cuba, which may a bit of patience and a lot of persever-
have their own offices or be based in ance todo se resuelve, as they say in
the major hotels. The latter also func- Cuba: a solution can always be found.

Main Immigration Office

Calle 20 e/ Ave 3 y 5,
Miramar, Havana.

CUSTOMS INFORMATION

Besides their personal

belongings, tourists are
allowed to take into Cuba
new or used objects whose
overall value is no more than
$250, plus 10 kg (22 lb) of
medicines in their original
packaging. Small appliances
such as electric razors are
allowed, but not objects such
as telephone apparatus or fax
One of the Playas del Este at Havana, crowded with tourists and locals machines. It is forbidden to
import fresh food such as
WHEN TO GO visa is a yellow piece of paper fruit and plants of any kind,
which you have to fill in with as well as explosives, drugs,
Apart from September to your personal data and the and pornographic material.
November, prime hurricane name of the place where you Hunters with firearms must
months, and July and August, are planning to stay. present their permits
when the torrid heat can Visas are valid for at customs.
make touring quite tiring one month and can If you intend to
(unless you spend your entire be extended for take more than 50
holiday at the seaside), any another 30 days: in cigars out of the
time of year is good for a visit Havana, go to the country you must
to Cuba. It is possible to relax Main Immigration be able to produce
on the beach all year round, Office. In other a receipt declaring
thanks to the mild climate. cities, you must their purchase at a
The best period for visits go to the local state-run shop; their
is December to March, when Direccin Provincial value must not
there are more cultural events de Inmigracin. If, exceed 2,000
and the climate is warm however, you are convertible pesos.If
without being unbearable. going to Cuba on you take out more
business or to work than 50 you may
VISAS AND PASSPORTS as a journalist, you well need to pay
should apply to the Brochure duty when you get
To enter Cuba, European Cuban embassy or illustrating customs home. Visitors can
travellers must have a valid consulate in your regulations take no more than
passport, a return ticket and a home country well in four bottles of rum
visa (tarjeta de turista) issued advance for a special visa. or liqueur out of the country.
by a Cuban consulate, or the For US-passport holders, In order to export works of
travel agency or the airline you special regulations apply art that are part of the national
bought your ticket from. This (see p308). heritage, you must have
View of Calle Enramada in Santiago de Cuba
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 299

official authorization from the WHAT TO WEAR chivalry, a ritual, even if it is

Registro Nacional de Bienes not always expressed with
Culturales del Ministerio The most suitable clothing good taste. In any case, these
de Cultura. for tourists is light and kinds of comments should
Avoid purchasing items generally casual attire. In the not be misinterpreted; no
made from endangered species winter a cotton or woollen reaction is seriously
such as tortoiseshell, or bags or sweater is useful in the expected, or at the
belts made from non-farmed evening, and may be very most a smile.
reptile skins. These are covered useful at other times Women travelling
under the Convention on of year in places with alone should not
International Trade in air conditioning. A experience
Endangered Species (CITES). waterproof may come problems, although
The import and export of in handy all year they may be obliged to
vaccinated domestic animals round because deal with frequent offers
is allowed. of the tropical of assistance from men.
showers. Sunhats The best way to put an
are recommended end to undesired
to protect the skin Two tourists in flirtation without
from the burning sun. casual summer offending is simply to
Except for evenings clothes say that you are
out at cabarets and married; this should
nightclubs, there is usually be enough for most men
no need for evening dress. to take the hint and leave
However, Cubans do you alone.
appreciate elegance and
cleanliness. For a formal HITCH-HIKING
meeting or interview, men
should not wear shorts The lack of fuel and
or T-shirts, but trousers and consequent scarcity of
a light shirt instead; and public transport in recent
women should wear a dress years has forced Cubans to
or a skirt and blouse, but resort to hitch-hiking (pedir
nothing too revealing. botella) both in town and in
the country. Everyone hitch-
LOCAL CUSTOMS hikes, young and old, but it
Rum for sale in a tienda, four per is never completely reliable.
person for export Cuba is a tolerant country Students sometimes have to
but attitudes are still rather walk for miles and miles to
LANGUAGES conservative. Nudism and get to their schools.
topless sunbathing are not If you are driving a car,
The official language in allowed on most beaches. remember that picking up
Cuba is Castilian Spanish, Despite the macho hitch-hikers is very much
which is spoken with a traditions in Cuba, the taboo appreciated by Cubans, is
distinctive local inflection concerning homosexuality generally not dangerous,
and vocabulary (see p335). has virtually disappeared, and can provide an excellent
English is spoken fairly provided that common sense opportunity to make friends.
widely in Havana and in and modesty are respected. Cubans always pick up their
the main hotels and resorts. Cuban men feel virtually fellow countrymen, but if
obliged to pay compliments they offer a foreigner a ride
FORMS OF GREETING to women passing by on the they may be fined by police
street: it is almost a form of unless they have a permit.
The most common greeting
in Cuba is a kiss on the
cheek, while shaking hands
is common among men only
in formal circumstances.
It is polite to use proper titles
when speaking to Cubans
seor, seora, seorita,
doctor, ingeniero (engineer)
and profesor. The word
compaero (comrade)
is not used as much as it once
was and in any case is used
only among Cubans, or at the
very most with foreigners
who are part of volunteer
organizations on the island. Hitch-hiking, often the only alternative to walking on a country road
300 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

JINETERISMO ELECTRICAL ADAPTORS

The tourist boom and the Electric current in Cubais

economic crisis have given 110 volts AC (same as in
rise to a particular form of US), so for European-type
prostitution known appliances and plugs you will
as jineterismo, need a voltage converter and
which consists of an electric adaptor plug.
living off foreign Many recently built hotels
tourists, not only also have 220-volt AC current.
through prostitution
proper, but also by CUBAN TIME
selling counterfeit goods
(especially cigars), finding Cuba is five hours behind
rooms for rent or paladares Greenwich Mean Time
and receiving a commission (GMT), like the US east coast,
from the owners. The jine- Tourist brochures and maps and in the summer there is
tera (jinetero if male) accosts published by Ediciones GEO daylight saving time, exactly
the tourist, and initiates a as in Europe.
relationship that may last a TOURIST INFORMATION
night or several days. Some- DIRECTORY
times the aim is not just to In all the hotels there are
make money, but also to get state-run tourist bureaux, such EMBASSIES
an invitation to go abroad. as Cubatur, Havanatur or
At first this social phenome- Cubanacn, offering basic United Kingdom
non was underestimated, but information, ticket booking Calle 34 No. 7024, esq. Ave. 7,
now the Cuban authorities are and trips. Maps, guides and Miramar, Playa, Havana.
trying to limit its spread with brochures are also available Tel (7) 2041 771, 2041 049.
severe measures, not against at these desks in airports and Fax (7) 2048 104.
tourists but against Cubans major cities. The Cuban www.britishembassy.gov.uk/cuba
acting in this way. To avoid publisher Ediciones GEO pro- Canada
difficult situations, be wary of duces particularly good maps. Calle 30 No. 518, esq. Ave. 7,
chance meetings, above all Miramar, Playa, Havana.
outside hotels or in discos. DISABLED TRAVELLERS Tel (7) 2042 516.
This mainly affects Havana Fax (7) 2042 044.
and cities and resorts popular Only major airports, hotels www.havana.gc.ca
with tourists. Cubans are very and restaurants have
friendly people so dont dis- wheelchair access for the USA
miss everyone as a jinetero. disabled. However, a Special Interest Section, Calle
programme is under way to Calzada, esq. L, Vedado, Havana.
CUBAN LAW gradually add such facilities Map 2 E1. Tel (7) 833 3551-59.
in airports and stations, public Fax (7) 833 1084.
Foreign visitors may find it buildings, museums, offices http://havana.usinterests
useful to know that in and streets. section.gov
Cuba camping and sleeping
in sleeping bags on the beach, OPENING HOURS TOURIST BUREAU
or in areas not specifically Ministry of Tourism
used as a camping site, is Normal working hours on Calle 3rd y F, Vedado, Havana.
strictly forbidden. weekdays are from 8am to Map 1 C3. www.cubatravel.cu
Cannabis may be offered 5:30pm, while banks open at Tel (7) 832 7535.
on the street or outside a 8am and close at 3pm.
disco, but purchasing even Museum opening hours
a tiny amount of marijuana vary, but in general they are WEBSITES
is illegal and could lead to from around 9am to 5pm,
immediate expulsion from while on Sunday museums are General
the country. open only half a day. Museum www.cuba.com
hours can be unpredictable, so www.dtcuba.com
if a visit is important to you, it www.cubaupdate.org
is best to telephone ahead. www.cubanow.net
An entry fee is always
Cuban Culture
charged at museums. Children
www.cubanculture.com
pay half-price, Cubans pay in
www.afrocubaweb.com
national pesos and tourists in
www.orishanet.com
convertible pesos. On average,
the entrance fee is 13 conver- In Spanish
tible pesos. The same amount www.cubasi.cu
Plaque at entrance to the Colonial may be charged for permission www.cubahora.co.cu
Art Museum, Sancti Spritus to take photos in museums.
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 301

Personal Security
Compared with any other part of North, Central or
South America, Cuba is a peaceful and safe place to
travel in. However, in recent years, the great develop-
ment of tourism, combined with the economic crisis, has
triggered an increase in petty crime, especially in Havana
and Santiago. Although the situation is under control, it is
wise to take a few precautions: leave your valuables,
documents and money in the hotel safe; never carry a
large amount of money with you; do not wear showy
jewellery; and keep an eye on your camera. If you
have a hired car, it is always advisable to park near
hotels or in pay car parks if possible, and do not leave
any belongings open to view in the car. A traffic policeman

CUBAN POLICE AND tourists from pickpockets and THEFT AND LOST
THE FIRE BRIGADE to check the documents of PROPERTY
suspicious individuals. They
Policemen in Cuba are speak some English and can To report the loss or theft
usually polite and willing to also provide information. of personal documents
help tourists. The officials Different uniforms are worn and belongings, either find a
who check passports in the by the traffic policemen policeman, who should take
airports, who belong to the (polica de trnsito) and you to the nearest police
Inmigracin y Extranjera and firemen (bomberos). station, or ask for directions.
wear green military uniforms, Guards from the relatively Once there, be prepared for a
do their job slowly and with new SEPSA organization long wait to make your report.
what might be considered provide security for banks
excessive meticulousness, but and tiendas and also see to NATURAL DISASTERS
problems are not common. transporting valuables.
Expect problems if you have The telephone number for The greatest natural danger in
not organized a place to stay, emergencies varies from Cuba is the possibility of being
if only for the first few days. province to province. caught in a hurricane. Hurricane
Tourists luggage is often not season runs from June through
checked, but it is best to November. The autumn
adhere to the customs regula- months are when hurricanes
tions to be on the safe side. are most likely, with most
The policemen of the occuring in October. Nowadays
PNR (Polica Nacional hurricanes are forecast well in
Revolucionaria) wear blue advance, leaving plenty of
trousers and a light grey shirt. time for adequate security
Their role is to maintain Road sign indicating a measures, so the risk involved
public order, and they seldom dangerous stretch of road should not be that great.
stop foreigners. In some Should a hurricane occur, fol-
tourist areas such as Varadero ROAD SAFETY low the instructions given by
and La Habana Vieja, you hotel staff. You will probably
may see policemen in dark There are not that many be told to wait in the hotel
blue uniforms; they belong to cars in Cuba, even though until it passes, and asked to
a special corps that was traffic is increasing. While keep away from windows.
created expressly to protect driving in the cities, watch out
for cyclists, who do not always DIRECTORY
observe traffic regulations. The
greatest potential dangers EMERGENCY NUMBERS
while travelling on roads and
motorways through the Ambulance
countryside (see p313) are Havana Tel (7) 838 1185, 838
the animals grazing on the 2185. Santiago Tel (22) 623 300.
side of the road and the
railway crossings without Police
gates. The road surface is Havana Tel 106.
often bumpy, with sometimes Santiago Tel 106.
deep potholes, so speeds
should be kept down. Fire Brigade
When it rains for several Havana Tel 105.
days in a row, the roads may Santiago Tel 105.
A fire engine at Matanzas easily become flooded.
302 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Health and Medical Matters be paid for in pesos). On the

other hand, the international
Thanks to the good health services, and the pharmacies, which are located
absence of most tropical diseases, a trip to in Havana and a few tourist
Cuba should pose no unusual health risks. resorts, stock various
All the international hotels have a doctor on medicines that can be bought
24-hour call, and the first visit, as well as with or without a prescription,
as well as over-the-counter
first-aid service, is free of charge. However, products (sanitary pads, ear
A pharmacy owing to the present economic difficulties plugs, ointments for fungal
sign in the country and the embargo, everyday infections and sunburn and so
pharmaceutical items are in very short on) that cannot be found in
supply. Normal pharmacies are rarely well stocked with the common tiendas.
medicines, and the well-supplied farmacias internacio-
nales international pharmacies which charge in conver- PUBLIC WCS (RESTROOMS)
tible pesos are not found in every town. It is best to
In Cuba public toilets are
bring your own supply of usual medicine pain relievers, hard to find, and they are
fever reducers, antibiotics and stomach treatments as often dirty and without water.
well as strong sunscreens and insect repellents. There is no such thing as
toilet paper, except in the
bathrooms in restaurants,
hotels, luxury nightclubs and
airports, so it is wise to carry
a good supply with you.

ILLNESSES

Summer colds are quite

common in Cuba, often
caused by the contrast
A Cuban ambulance between the heat of outside
and the chilly air in hotels and
VACCINATIONS PHARMACIES so on, where air conditioning
is on maximum. It is a good
No vaccinations or inocu- The national pharmacies idea to carry a light sweater or
lations are required for visits are not well stocked and jacket for these occasions.
to Cuba. Remarkably, almost generally reserved for Cubans. Asthma sufferers may find
all tropical diseases have Medicines are sold only upon that the humid climate could
been eliminated, and it is presentation of a prescription. trigger an attack; visitors to
quite safe to travel around the In these pharmacies foreigners Cuba with respiratory
entire island. can only purchase medicines problems should always carry
Malaria has also gone, thanks made from natural ingredients, their usual medicine and an
to a successful eradication including syrups, tinctures and inhaler with them. All the
campaign. There are restrictive vegetable essences, which are hospitals and policlnicos (the
sanitary regulations only for made on the premises. They neighbourhood outpatient
those arriving from countries are excellent, effective and clinics) are well-equipped
in which yellow fever and cost virtually nothing (they can for these problems.
cholera are endemic diseases.

MEDICAL TREATMENT

Cuban public health care is

excellent, free of charge,
and superior to that offered
in any other Latin American
country, though it has been
put under severe pressure by
the US embargo.
The national service is
reserved for Cuban citizens.
Foreign visitors are treated
in international clinics or in
public hospitals, where they
will have to pay for treatment
in convertible pesos. On the
plus side, they are given more
comfortable rooms. Entrance to the historic Taquechel pharmacy in Havana (see p72)
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 303

DIRECTORY
EMERGENCY NUMBERS
Ambulance
and First Aid
Havana Tel (7) 838 1185, 838
2185. Santiago Tel (22) 626 485,
623 300.

INTERNATIONAL
HOSPITALS AND CLINICS
Havana
Clnica Cira Garca,
Calle 20 n. 4101,
esq. 43, Miramar, Havana.
Wearing a hat and using sunscreen to avoid burns and heatstroke Tel (7) 2042 811.

Another fairly common PROTECTION FROM

nuisance in Cuba is diarrhoea, THE SUN Santiago de Cuba
or worse, dysentery. This can Ave Ral Pujol y Calle 10.
generally be prevented by The sun in Cuba is very Tel (22) 642 589.
always drinking bottled strong and protection is
water, or water that has necessary, especially in July Varadero
been purified with tablets; and August. Wear a hat, Calle 60 y 1.
another useful precaution whether in town or in the Tel (45) 667 711.
is to avoid food and drinks countryside, and use a
sold on the street. It may strong sun lotion with a
be best to avoid ice in high screen factor. It is INTERNATIONAL
cocktails as well. also advisable to drink PHARMACIES
All these measures a lot of water to prevent
should also be enough dehydration. High Farmacia Internacional
to ward off giardiasis, humidity and heat may Miramar
a disease caused by cause heatstroke, with Ave. 41 esq. 20, Miramar, Havana.
a parasite that attacks symptoms of thirst, Tel (7) 204 4350.
the intestine and nausea, fever, and
causes dysentery, A bottle of dizziness. If this occurs, Farmacia Internacional
nausea, fatigue and Ciego Montero keep up fluid intake
Habana Libre
weight loss. mineral water and take cold baths. Hotel Habana Libre, Ave. L,
Rare cases of yellow e/ 23 y 25, Vedado, Havana.
fever and dengue fever may INSECTS Map 2 E2. Tel (7) 838 4593.
occur in the summer in the
marshy zones of Eastern Cuba Mosquitoes are the main
(although in practice few irritant in Cuba (and can HEALTH TOURISM
tourists visit these areas). cause disease). In swampy
However, since these two or lagoon areas, such as the Servimed Cubanacn
diseases are spread by Zapata swamp, pay particular Turismo y Salud
mosquitoes, it is advisable to attention to applying insect Ave 43 n. 1418, esq. 18,
use plenty of insect repellent repellent, cover up in the Miramar, Havana.
when planning to tour evening and sleep with the Tel (7) 204 1630.
marshy areas. fan or air conditioning on.

HEALTH TOURISM
Thanks to its favourable climate, Cuba has long been
regarded as an effective sanatorium, popular with an
international clientele. By the 19th century, the first
hotels had been built near springs of therapeutic
mineral water. Beside the spas, there are now
international clinics which provide general medical
care and also specialize in anti-stress and skin
treatments, as well as hospitals for the rehabilitation of
alcoholics and drug addicts. These centres are located
throughout the country and are in great demand: the
waiting lists are not long, the prices are competitive,
and the results are good. They are run by the state-run Dermatological treatment in one
Servimed organization, part of the Cubanacn group. of the specialist clinics
304 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Communications TELEPHONE NUMBERS

The telephone is by far the most If you are calling from

widespread system of communication abroad, dial the international
in Cuba. Unlike the postal service, which access code of your country
is not all that efficient, the telephone (eg 00 in the UK), followed
by the Cuba country code
network run by ETECSA has improved (53), the local area code, and
considerably. Today there are new public lastly the local phone number
telephones that work with pre-paid phone you want to reach. The local
An unusual cards. The use of e-mail is spreading, if area codes, which may have
letter box mainly in business. Cuba also has two one or two digits, are given in
national television channels and several brackets in front of all phone
national, regional and municipal radio stations. Many numbers listed in this guide.
hotels have a satellite dish and broadcast a TV channel For local calls, there is no
need to dial the area code.
especially for tourists. The leading daily newspaper is The number of digits of local
Granma, while the weekly Granma Internacional is numbers varies, since the
printed in various languages. Business Tips on Cuba is phone network system is in
a business monthly on investments in Cuba. the process of being updated.
5 centavos
HOW TO USE A PUBLIC TELEPHONE
Lift the receiver and wait for the
1 dialling tone. The display will ask
the user to insert a telephone card 2 Once you have
inserted the telephone 20 centavos
(inserte su tarjeta) in the slot above card, the display will
the receiver. show how much credit Coins used for phoning
remains on the card.
PUBLIC TELEPHONES
Dial the number you
3 want to call. While you
are dialling, the number you
Throughout the country
there has been an increase
are calling will appear on the in the number of new public
display. The readout will telephones, which can be
also say how much credit used to make direct-dial
remains on the phone card.
international calls without the
help of the operator. Magnetic
telephone cards (tarjetas
telefnicas) can be purchased
at hotels, post offices, tiendas
and ETECSA telephone centres
for $10, $20 and $50.
There are also coin-operated
telephones which take pesos.
For a local call you must insert
Telephone cards at least a five centavos coin
(also known as medio), or
After the call is finished, place the receiver back
4 on the hook. The phone card will be returned
from the slot automatically. If the card expires
one for 20 centavos (peseta)
to talk for a few minutes.
while you are phoning, the connection will be Local, long-distance and
interrupted and you will have to phone again. international calls can also
be made from hotels. This
is certainly the easiest way,
DIALLING CODES since the operator does
Directory inquiries 113 everything for you, but it is
If you want to make a long-distance telephone call via also the most expensive.
the operator, dial 00.
To make a reverse charge (collect) international PRIVATE TELEPHONES
telephone call via the operator, dial 09.
To dial long-distance within Cuba from a phone card The only direct-dial calls
public telephone, add 0 in front of the area code. that can be made from
To make a direct-dial international telephone call from a private telephones are local
public telephone with a phone card, dial 119, and from a ones, while long-distance and
hotel 88, followed by the country code (Australia 61; international calls must be
Ireland 353; New Zealand 64; UK 44; USA and Canada 1), made through an operator.
the area code and then the local telephone number. Calls to foreign countries are
always reverse charge, unless
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 305

you use an ETECSA telephone There are also

with a contract specifying several provincial
payment in dollars. This type dailies: Trabajadores
of telephone can be found in (Monday to Saturday
hotels, in travel agencies, in only) and Tribuna
some public offices, and in de La Habana in
the homes of foreigners who Havana; Guerrillero
work in Cuba, rarely in in Pinar del Ro;
Cubans private homes. Girn in Matanzas;
5 de Septiembre
POSTAL SERVICE in Cienfuegos;
A crowded news-stand in Pinar del Ro Adelante in
The Cuban postal service is Camagey;
slow, but is generally no RADIO AND TELEVISION Ahora in Holgun; Sierra
worse than in any other Latin Maestra in Santiago
American country. For letters There are four main Cuban de Cuba; and Victoria
and postcards, use the stamps television channels. Cubavisin in Isla de la Juventud.
(sellos) that can be purchased broadcasts soap operas, films, Among Cubas magazines
in dollars in the hotels or in news, music and US drama are Bohemia, a cultural
pesos in the post offices series around the clock. Tele weekly, and a periodical
(oficinas de correo). Whatever Rebelde specializes in news for investors and foreign
the postage, letters take a long and sports programmes and tourists, Business Tips on
time to arrive, although it may airs school lessons during the Cuba, which is printed in
help a little to post mail in the day and documentaries in the several languages.
oficinas de correo postboxes. evening, as do Canal Educativo
The safest, and com- and Canal Educativo 2. Each INTERNET AND FAX
paratively the fastest, way to province has its own local
post documents, letters or channel. Canal Habana and E-mail is used increasingly
parcels that are important or Multivisin, for example, in Cuba, mainly in offices,
urgent, is via international broadcast from Havana. while surfing the Internet is
courier services: DHL, Hotels have a selection of still limited to the privileged
Cubapost, or Cubapack channels such as CNN, few. You can log onto the
Internacional SA. Discovery ESPN, Cinemax, Web in many hotels, and a
HBO and The Cartoon few cyber cafs.
Network, all of which are not Fax services are available
allowed in family homes. in all the international
There is also a tourist chan- post offices in the large
nel which can be viewed in cities as well as in all the
hotels. Canal del Sol features major hotels.
mainly films and sports.
A good radio station is Radio DIRECTORY
Tano, with music and informa-
tion in English and Spanish COURIER SERVICE
(1180 AM in Havana and 1100
AM in Varadero). Radio Rebelde Cubapack
has news, music and sports; Internacional SA
Radio Habana Cuba broad- Calle 22 n. 4115, e/ 41 y 47,
Entrance to a post office (oficina casts for an overseas audience; Playa, Havana.
de correo) in Havana and Radio Reloj broadcasts Tel (7) 2042 817,
news 24 hours a day. (7) 204 2134,
ADDRESSES (7) 204 2817.
NEWSPAPERS
In Cuba the street number, AND PERIODICALS Cubapost
preceded by N. or #, Calle 21 n. 1009, e/ 10 y 12,
comes after the name of the The daily newspaper Vedado, Havana.
street or square, followed by with the widest circulation Map 1 B4.
esq. (esquina = corner) and in the country is Granma, Tel (7) 836 9790,
the name of the cross street, the official organ of the (7) 836 9791.
or by e/ (entre = between) Cuban Communist Party,
and the name of two streets which also publishes a
(see p118). This is followed by weekly version for foreigners, DHL
the number of the apartment, Granma Internacional. Calle 26, esq. 1, Playa, Havana.
if it has one, or by altos (first Tel (7) 204 0998,
floor) or bajos (ground (7) 204 1578,
floor) if it is a private house, (7) 204 1876.
followed by the name of the
reparto (quarter) or district,
and then by the locality. Masthead of the daily Granma
306 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Banking and Local Currency DIRECTORY

Cubas currency is the peso cubano (CUP), but most BANKS
visitors primarily use the peso convertible (CUC), or Banco Financiero
convertible peso. You can buy and pay for everything Internacional
in convertible pesos. The US dollar was valid in Cuba 5ta Ave. no.9009 esq. 92,
until 2005 when the law changed, and it is now the Miramar, Playa,
least desirable major currency to bring to the country Havana.
as, although exchangeable in banks, it is subject to a Tel (7) 267 5000.
10% surcharge. Credit cards and travellers cheques Fax (7) 267 5001.
issued by banks in the US are not accepted anywhere Banco de Crdito
in Cuba. American Express cards, regardless of where y Comercio
they were issued, are not accepted either. Euros are Amargura no.158 esq. Cuba,
now widely accepted in hotels in Varadero, Jardines del Habana Vieja,
Rey, Holgun, Santa Luca and Cayo Largo del Sur. Havana.
Tel (7) 861 4533.
Fax (7) 866 8968.
BANKS AND card (VISA or Mastercard).
BUREAUX DE CHANGE An increasing number of BUREAUX DE CHANGE
Automated Teller Machines
Banks are usually open from (ATMs) accept foreign cards, CADECA Casa de Cambio
8am to 3pm from Monday to though ATMs are still non- Aeropuerto Jos Mart, Terminal
Friday. Among those that carry existent in many towns. 3, Havana. # 24 hours daily.
out foreign currency transac- Remember that cards issued by CADECA Casa de Cambio
tions the best prepared are the US banks are not accepted. Obispo no.257, e/ Aguiar y Cuba,
Banco de Crdito y Comercio
Habana Vieja, Havana.
(BANDEC) and the Banco CREDIT CARDS # 8am10pm daily.
Financiero Internacional
(BFI), branches of The vast majority of CADECA Casa de Cambio
which exist in the hotels, some Hotel Nacional, Calle 0 esq. 21,
major tourist resorts restaurants and Vedado, Havana.
and provincial many convertible # 8am-noon & 111pm
capitals. Bank peso-charging shops MonSun.
commissions on accept credit cards,
CADECA Casa de Cambio
travellers cheques though only those
Aeropuerto de Varadero.
is 2 or 3 per cent. The logo of the Banco issued by non-US
Bureaux de Financiero Internacional banks and never
CREDIT CARD
change, especially American Express. ASSISTANCE
those located in hotels, have If you encounter a problem
longer opening hours than using a credit card, contact Centro de Tarjetas
banks. The commission for the Centro de Tarjetas de de Crdito
cashing travellers cheques is Crdito in Havana. Calle 23 (La Rampa), e/ L y M,
around 4 per cent. The In many small towns, and Vedado, Havana.
CADECA Casas de Cambio, even in some remote tourist Tel (7) 835 6400, 838 4407.
often located near shops or resorts, credit cards will be
markets, are the best places useless, so it is wise to carry a
to buy pesos cubanos. certain amount of cash with common terms to differentiate
Money can also be with- you (this is essential outside them are moneda nacional
drawn using a credit or debit of the major cities and tourist or CUP for the peso cubano,
resorts). Wherever and divisa or CUC for the
you are cash will be convertible peso.
needed for tips and There are currently 24 pesos
small purchases. cubanos to the convertible
peso. Visitors will use the
CURRENCY convertible peso almost
exclusively, while the peso
The dual economy of cubano is used mostly just by
the peso cubano and Cubans. However, it is the
the peso convertible only valid currency on local
(convertible peso) buses, at most cinemas and
can be confusing, sports stadiums, so it may be
especially as both a good idea to carry a small
currencies are often amount with you. Some
referred to as pesos. services, such as museum
Even the symbol ($) fees, are charged to Cubans in
The handsome Neo-Classical faade used to denote them pesos and to foreigners in
of a bank in Santa Clara is the same. The most convertible pesos.
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 307

Coins
There are 100 centavos (cents) to a national
peso. Cuban coins come in 1 centavo (kilo),
2 centavos, 5 centavos (medio used for calls),
20 centavos (peseta, also used for phone calls);
and 1 and 3 pesos (the latter bearing Che
Guevaras portrait).

3 pesos

1 peso 20 centavos 5 centavos

Pesos Cubanos
Cuban bank notes come in units of
1, 3, 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 pesos.
Each note has a different colour.
Twenty-four pesos correspond to one
peso convertible: be careful not to
confuse the bank notes.

5 pesos

10 pesos

20 pesos

Pesos Convertibles
(Convertible Pesos)
Bank notes of the peso convertible
circulate in units of 1, 3, 5, 10, 20, 50
and 100 pesos. The coins come in units
of 5, 10, 25, 50 cents and 1 peso. These
pesos convertibles are not valid
anywhere outside Cuba.

1 peso convertible

25 centavos 10 centavos

5 centavos 1 centavo 10 pesos convertibles

308 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

TRAVEL INFORMATION
he majority of foreign tourists have not been previously arranged, or

T arrive in Cuba by aeroplane. cars may be hired (driving is the most effi-
Charter and regular scheduled cient way of getting around Cuba). From
flights arrive from Europe, Canada, Jos Mart airport in Havana, a modern
Central and South coach service, part of the Vaivn com-
America, and there are pany line, provides a link with the city
even some special flights centre. On Cayo Largo,
from the US. The internal one of Cubas most well-
connections within Cuba Logo of Cubas national airline known island resorts, there
are good, and there is at least one airport i s a n a i r p o r t w i t h i n t e r n a t i o n a l
in every province; 9 are international links, and Isla de la Juventud is linked to
and 21 domestic. Taxis are available at the rest of Cuba by a domestic airport as
the airport for hotel transfers, if these well as by ferries and catamarans.

ARRIVING BY AIR

Cuba is connected to Europe

and the rest of the world by
flights operated by several
major airlines, with scheduled
and charter flights.
Most arrivals from Britain
are charter flights; scheduled
direct flights from London to
Havana are rare. Monarch
Airlines offers flight-only
deals from Gatwick to
Holgun and Varadero, as
well as a range of package
holidays. The Cuban national Entrance to the Jos Mart airport in Havana
airline is Cubana de Aviacin,
and has regular flights via Paris. Iberia flights (from US TRAVELLERS
between the United London and Manchester) go
Kingdom and Havana. via Madrid in Spain. American law means that it
Most scheduled routes In Canada, regular Cubana is illegal for US-passport
from Britain involve a de Aviacin flights go from holders to travel to Cuba as
stopover in a third country, Toronto and Montreal. tourists or on business, but it is
though Virgin Atlantic flies Cubana de Aviacin also possible to apply for a licence
direct from Gatwick to operates flights from Mexico from the US Treasury Depart-
Havana. Air France flights with services departing ment. These can be given for
depart from Heathrow and from Cancn and Mexico religious or humanitarian
other UK airports to Havana City airports. interest trips, to freelance

DISTANCE FROM CITY OR

CITY AIRPORT INFORMATION
TOURIST CENTRE

Havana Jos Mart (7) 266 4133 Town centre: 25 km (15 miles)

Varadero Juan Gualberto Gmez (45) 247 015 Town centre: 6 km (4 miles)

Cayo Largo del Sur Vilo Acua (45) 248 146 (in the middle of the cay)

Camagey Ignacio Agramonte (32) 261 010 Town centre: 9 km (5.5 miles)

Holgun Frank Pas (24) 462 512 Town centre: 13 km (8 miles)

Santiago de Cuba Antonio Maceo (22) 698 614 Town centre: 5 km (3 miles)

Manzanillo Sierra Maestra (23) 577 401 Town centre: 8 km (5 miles)

Ciego de vila Mximo Gmez (33) 309 161 Cayo Coco: 80 km (50 miles)

Cienfuegos Jaime Gonzlez (43) 552 047 Town centre: 5 km (3 miles)

 T R AV E L I N F O R M A T I O N 309

journalists (full-time journalists number of the boat, and the DIRECTORY

need no specific licence), and customs document (zarpe)
to students whose university issued at the last port the ship AIRLINES
has applied for a licence. called at. The Cruising Guide
Air France
Regulations tend to change, so to Cuba by Simon Charles is a
www.airfrance.com
check the current situation. good source of information.
Tel 0845 084 5111 (UK).
The Center for Cuban
Studies has its own licence ORGANIZED TOURS Cubana de Aviacin
and can therefore arrange AND PACKAGE HOLIDAYS www.cubana.co.cu
group and individual travel for Tel 020 7537 7909 (UK).
US-passport holders of the Air fares vary depending on
Iberia
above categories and also the airline and time of year.
www.iberiaairlines.co.uk
provides updates and advice. Fares tend to be higher at
Tel 0845 609 0500 (UK).
Some US travellers choose peak periods, that is in July
to go without a licence, flying and August and at Christmas Monarch Airlines
via Mexico, Canada or the and Easter. The best value is www.flymonarch.com
Caribbean. These trips cannot often to buy a package includ- Tel 01582 400 000 (UK).
be arranged through US travel ing charter flights from a tour
agents, and it is vital to avoid operator; your travel agent Virgin Atlantic
www.virgin-atlantic.com
having your passport stamped can help you decide which is
by the Cuban authorities. the most suitable for your Tel 01293 562 345 (UK).
needs. There are
US TRAVELLERS
usually reductions
for children under Center for Cuban Studies
12 years. From the www.cubaupdate.org
UK, charter flights Tel (212) 242-0559 (US).
Sign for the international terminal are available to Cuba
at Havana airport from both Gatwick US Treasury Department
and Manchester. www.treas.gov/ofac
AIRPORTS Mainstream UK tour opera- Tel (202) 622-2000 (US).
tors include Thomas Cook and
Cuba has 9 international and The Holiday Place. Specialist TOUR OPERATORS
21 domestic airports. The main operators, who can help Captivating Cuba
international airport is Jos independent travellers plan a
www.captivatingcuba.com
Mart, 18 km (11 miles) south tailor-made visit, include
Tel 0870 887 0123 (UK).
of Havana. Charter flights land Captivating Cuba, Havanatur,
at Terminal II, scheduled Journey Latin America and Havanatur UK
flights at Terminal III, while Regent Holidays. Dance Tel 01707-646 463 (UK).
Terminal I is reserved for Holidays (see pp25051)
Holiday Holiday
domestic flights. offers arrangements including
www.holidayholiday.co.uk
Most of the other inter- music and dance tuition.
Tel 0870 251 2523 (UK).
national airports (other than in Special interest holidays,
Havana) are for charter flights especially those involving Journey Latin America
for tourists en route to holiday diving, water sports and salsa www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk
resorts. Of these, Varadero is are particularly popular, and Tel 020-8747 8315 (UK).
the busiest. eco-tourism is also a
Regent Holidays
developing area (see p250).
www.regent-holidays.co.uk
ARRIVING BY SEA Among the tour operators
Tel 0870 499 1311 (UK).
offering special interest
Because of the US embargo, holidays are Scuba en Cuba Scuba en Cuba
Cuba is not connected to and Voyager Cuba. www.scuba-en-cuba.com
North and South Tel 01895-624 100 (UK).
America by ferries,
and few cruise ships South American Experience
www.southamerican experience.
dock here. But private
yachts are welcome at co.uk
Cubas many harbours, Tel 020 7821 4060 (UK).
including Marina The Holiday Place
Hemingway in Havana www.theholidayplace.com
(special rules applies Tel 020 7644 1755 (UK).
for US passport
holders see above). Thomas Cook
The following docu- www.thomascook.com
ments are needed: the Tel 0870 750 5711 (UK).
passports of all those Voyager Cuba
on board, the owner- www.voyagercuba.co.uk
ship documents, the An aeroplane landing at Cayo Largo, an Tel 01580 766 222 (UK).
name and registration international holiday resort
310 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Getting Around Cuba of charge, and young people

under 18 pay 33 per cent
If your time is limited, the best way to get around of the normal fare.
the island is without doubt by aeroplane, because The aeroplanes are not
this is the only really fast means of transport in Cuba. always new, and the service
The network of domestic flights is good and connections may lack frills, but the staff
are experienced and reliable.
are made via Cubana de Aviacin and Aerocaribbean
airlines. Trains are much cheaper, but they are also SHIPS AND FERRIES
much slower. Tourist coach services, on the other
hand, have greatly improved. They are becoming more If time is not an issue, it is
numerous and comfortable and provide services to possible to travel to Isla de
all the tourist resorts and provincial capitals. la Juventud by sea rather than
by air. Departure is from the
port of Bataban, on the
southern coast of Havana
province, 60 km (37 miles)
from the capital. The journey
once took up to six hours by
ferry, but nowadays a
catamaran built by Damex
Shipbuilding & Engineering
does the journey in about
two and a half hours. Tickets
for the catamaran can be
bought at the quay and
there is no need to book
ahead of time.
A recent development is
a daily service between
Nueva Gerona national airport, Isla de la Juventud Varadero and Havana in
elegant catamarans that belong
BOOKING AND CHECK-IN airlines for you and make to the Dodero Argentine
FOR DOMESTIC FLIGHTS your reservation without any shipping line and are run by
extra charge. However, bear Cubanacn. The catamarans
There are flights from in mind that you should book depart in the morning from
Havana to the following early, especially for flights Marina Chapeln, in Varadero,
destinations: Baracoa, in high season. Check-in is and dock at the
Bayamo, Camagey, Cayo 60 minutes before take-off, cruise ship
Coco, Cayo Largo, Ciego and the terminal in
de vila, Cienfuegos, maximum Havana; the
Guantnamo, Holgun, luggage return trip is
Las Tunas, Manzanillo, Moa, weight A Cubana de Aviacin plane in the late
Nueva Gerona, Playa Santa allowance is for domestic flights afternoon. The
Luca, Santa Clara and 20 kg (44 lbs). trip takes two
Santiago de Cuba. Domestic flights cost about and a half hours and cruising
It is not necessary to go in twice as much as trains or speed is 35 knots. This air-
person to the Cubana de coaches, but if you book one conditioned ship has a seating
Aviacin or Aerocaribbean together with an international capacity of 380, and facilities
airline offices to book a flight with Cubana, there is a include a solarium.
domestic flight; any travel saving of 25 per cent. In the cities of Havana,
agency will contact these Children under two travel free Santiago and Cienfuegos,

A lanchita, a waterbus connecting the various towns around the bay of Havana
 T R AV E L I N F O R M A T I O N 311

you can also find waterbuses

or ferries called lanchas
or lanchitas, which operate
around their respective
bays, linking towns or
providing a crossing to the
opposite side.
Small ferries connect the
coast north of Pinar del Ro
with Cayo Levisa.

TRAINS

Cuba has 4,881 km (3,030

miles) of public railway lines,
serving all the provincial Faade of the railway station in Morn
capitals. In recent years the
service has been extended and COACH SERVICES DIRECTORY
slightly improved, although
the carriages are by no means The modern coaches AEROCARIBBEAN
modern and clean. operated by the Vazul
Refreshments may not be company provide transport to Havana
available, so take supplies. the main cities and towns and Calle 23 n. 64, Vedado.
There is at least one train tourist resorts in Cuba. They Map 2 F2. Tel (7) 8797 524,
per day on each of the main connect Havana with Santiago (7) 8797 525.
lines, but do not count on it (passing through Santa Clara,
arriving on time. Ciego de vila, Camagey, CUBANA DE AVIACIN
The trains known as Las Tunas, Holgun and Camagey
especiales, which cover Bayamo), Varadero, Trinidad Calle Repblica 400.
long-distance routes such and Viales. There is also a Tel (32) 291 338.
as Havana-Santiago, direct service
have air condi- between Varadero Holgun
tioning (though and Trinidad. Calle Libertad, esq. Mart.
it may not On the positive Tel (24) 464 148, 464 149.
always function side, Viazul
Havana
as it should), coaches are very
Calle 23, e/ P e Infanta, Vedado.
reclinable seats, comfortable and
Map 2 F1. Tel (7) 834 4446.
and a refreshment arrive on time
service. the disadvantage is Santiago de Cuba
Information on that, at least on the Calle Enramada esq. San Pedro.
timetables and A minibus for stretch between Tel (22) 651 578.
tickets (tourists tourists Havana and
Varadero
have to pay in Santiago, the
Ave 1ra e/ 54 y 55.
convertible pesos) can be frequent intermediate stops in
Tel (45) 611 823-5.
obtained in Havana railway all the provincial capitals
station at the Ferrotur offices. make for rather a long
FERROTUR
An alternative is the LADIS journey. The seats can be
agency, which also sells tickets reclined (a little), and there Havana
for long journeys. are toilets and a minibar Estacin Central de Ferrocarriles,
The advantage in travelling for passengers. The air Egido y Arsenal. Map 4 E4.
by train is that it is almost conditioning is always turned Tel (7) 862 1920.
always possible to find a seat on full, so that if you do
without booking in advance, decide to use this means of VAZUL
even in high season. If you transport, always carry a
have time, patience and are sweater or jacket. Havana Main Office
on a tight budget, railway Travel agencies also supply Ave 26 y Zoolgico, Nuevo
travel can be a very pleasant hotels with minibus shuttle Vedado. Tel (7) 8811 413 or
and sociable way of travelling services to take guests to (7) 882 0645.
around Cuba. nearby tourist resorts. Fax (7) 883 6092.

Varadero
Calle 36 y Autopista.
Tel (45) 614 886.

Santiago de Cuba
Ave de los Libertadores,
esq. Yaray.
Tel (22) 628 484.
A Vazul line coach
312 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Travelling by Car
The best way to see a lot of Cubas hinterland is to
travel by car. With a car it is possible to discover
places and scenery that it would be difficult to see on
an organized tour, and even more so if you travel by air.
It is best to plan an itinerary and stopovers in advance, Example of a new road sign
and a good road map is essential. A few precautions seen outside cities
should be taken. Keep speed down and always park
in supervised car parks. In summer, because of the heat, exceeding the speed limit,
it is advisable to travel early in the morning. You will because every so often the
see many people hitch-hiking on the road; you are road is crossed by unmarked
not obliged to pick them up, but it is a normal way of railway lines or you may come
life in Cuba and the lift will be appreciated (see p299). across wandering animals.
The worst roads, with
potholes and bumps, are
found in Eastern Cuba, but
the surfaces of city streets are
by no means perfect either.

PETROL

Fuel is distributed through the

many Servi-Cupet and Oro
Negro service stations through-
out the island. They sell
petrol for convertible pesos
and are open 24 hours a day.
However, there are fewer
stations outside the towns, so
A lorry picking up hitch-hikers on the Autopista Nacional (motorway) it is best to keep the tank
topped up, just in case.
THE HIGHWAY CODE THE ROAD NETWORK Ask the car hire company
for a free copy of an
In Cuba traffic drives on the The carretera central is automapa, which shows
right. The speed limits for an old, narrow and not where the Servi-Cupet service
cars are 20 km/h (12 mph) in particularly comfortable stations are located across
parking areas, 40 km/h (25 road linking Pinar del Ro the island.
mph) near schools, 50 km/h to Guantnamo, via all the
(30 mph) in town, 60 km/h provincial capitals. The only ROAD MAPS
(37 mph) on dirt roads and in motorway in Cuba is the
tunnels, 90 km/h (55 mph) on Autopista Nacional, or Ocho A good road map is essential.
asphalt roads and 100 km/h Vas; it goes from Pinar del Tiendas and the book shops in
(62 mph) on the motorway. Ro to Jatibonico, near Sancti hotels and elsewhere sell good
Every so often on the Auto- Spritus (the HolgunSantiago road maps which are published
pista (motorway) you will see de Cuba stretch is under by Ediciones GEO.
signs telling you to reduce your construction) and is toll-free. Maps and brochures are
speed to around 50 km/h: do It is in good condition but also distributed free of charge
not ignore these instructions, as should be used as if it were in travel agencies and by the
they are often followed by an ordinary road, without car hire companies.
road blocks. In general, the
police are quite tolerant with
tourists, but speeding may
invalidate car hire insurance.
In town, headlights should
be kept dipped. Seat belts are
only fitted in the more recent
models of car. Their use is
both recommended and
compulsory.
The road signs are the usual
international ones, but there
are also others on the country
roads that warn drivers they
are approaching a junction or
a stretch of dangerous road
(see p301). A hire car at a Servi-Cupet service station
 T R AV E L I N F O R M A T I O N 313

into animals, pedestrians and office from the one where it

NUMBER PLATES even cyclists, whose bicycles was hired, but there will be a
Cuban car number plates are rarely equipped with high charge. A penalty will
come in different colours, front lights and rear also have to be paid if the
indicating the type of reflectors. contract for car hire is lost.
ownership. Above the At any time of There are two kinds of
number is a word day, take extra optional insurance
indicating the category care after rainy for hire cars. Plan A
of the vehicle: estatal weather, because covers accidents but
means it belongs to a road surfaces may not theft, and Plan B
state-run organization, become flooded covers all risks
particular means it is a (see p301). In except for loss
private car, turismo is mountain areas of a tyre.
used for cars rented by there may be In the event of
tourists and empresa for some danger of Tourists on a scooter an accident you
joint venture companies. falling rocks. must obtain a
copy of the police
CAR HIRE report, which should then
be handed over to the car
In order to hire a car in Cuba hire company.
visitors must have a valid For exploring certain parts of
drivers licence from their own the island, including the
Official plate
country or an international extreme west and far east, it
licence, be over 21 years of may be best to hire a four-
age, and have a valid passport wheel drive (off-roader) to
to show to the car rental negotiate the pitted roads.
company. The three main Larger groups of visitors
agencies are Transautos, might prefer to rent a minibus
Private plate CubaCar and Va Rent a Car. from Cubamar, Cubanacn
Transautos, the bigger chain, or Transgaviota. It is also
has a number of branch offices possible to hire scooters.
in hotels throughout the island
and in Servi-Cupet service sta- DIRECTORY
tions, so that they are able to
provide a good network of CAR HIRE
Tourist plate support. CubaCar and Via Rent
a Car have offices only in the Cubacar
main cities. Calle 3rd y 164, Miramar, Havana.
ROAD SAFETY Cars can be picked up and Tel (7) 273 1157, (7) 273 0600.
dropped off at most of the
The most serious danger airports, but it is advisable to Rex
on Cuban roads is posed, in book them well in advance, Ave. de Rancho Boyeros y Calzada
fact, by slow vehicles: carts especially in high season, de Bejucal, Havana.
and carriages, tractors and when the smaller and cheaper
cyclists tend to occupy the models are very much in Tel (7) 683 0303, (7) 273 9166.
middle of the road, and demand. Payment is made in Va Rent a Car (Gaviota)
before overtaking them it is a advance, and you must either
Calle 9na y 98, Playa.
good idea to sound the horn. leave a cash deposit (which is
It is also a good rule of refunded) or leave an imprint Tel (7) 2043 606.
thumb to sound the horn of your credit card. A car may
before making a sharp turn be dropped off at a different MINIVAN HIRE
or when passing a
lorry (they often do Cubacar
not have rear-view Calle 164 esq. 3ra, Reparto Flores,
mirrors). Havana.
It is forbidden to Tel (7) 273 2277, (7) 835 0000,
keep your car lights
on during the day, (7) 272 5986, (7) 272 5985.
unless there is Micar
heavy fog. It is
Calle 110 e/ 5 y 3,
advisable not to
drive outside town Playa Habana, Havana.
at night unless Tel (7) 206 9778, (7) 204 3457.
absolutely
necessary, because Transtur
of poor visibility. Calle 1ra esq. 26, Playa Habana,
Roads are not lit A hired four-wheel drive: a good choice of Havana. Tel/Fax (7) 2045 532.
and you may run vehicle for the road conditions in Cuba
314 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Getting Around Havana

In Havana, road traffic is on the increase but is still
nowhere near the levels of a normal European or
American city. Getting around using public transport
can be a major undertaking, unless you use the local
tourist bus service, HabanaBusTour. On the other hand,
there are plenty of taxis as well as cocotaxis, which
offer a safe and fast way of getting around town. In HabanaBusTour, the best and
Habana Vieja and Centro Habana, the most pleasant cheapest way to explore Havana
way to explore is to hire a rickshaw or to stay on foot.
route, because there are no
route maps at the bus stops to
indicate the various stops. At
any bus stop you must general-
ly ask who is the last (ltimo
or ltima) in line for the ruta
(destination) you want. There
is a queue even though you
may not be aware of it, which
will re-form in an organized
way once the bus arrives.
Passengers get on the front
of the bus, where the conduc-
tor or driver should be paid
the fare in small change in
national pesos. The cost is
usually forty Cuban cents,
though you can also pay five
A rickshaw near the Capitol building centavos convertibles per
journey. Buses are usually
WALKING IN HAVANA hop-off air-conditioned tourist very crowded, so feel lucky if
bus service, HabanaBusTour, you find an empty seat. The
Havana is an immense city with three different routes heat can often be suffocating.
and every district (municipio) around town. Two of the Allow plenty of time to get
extends for miles. However, routes start in Parque Central out, because passengers tend
if you are staying in the city and go as far as Marina Hem- to block the exit door. Hold
centre (the area described ingway to the west and Playas wallets and bags close to
on pages 56105) then it del Este to the east, for the deter pickpockets.
should be quite feasible to do daily price of five pesos The colourful metrobus
a lot of exploring on foot. convertibles. service has now substituted
Besides, walking along the Take the local buses to visit the old camellos. The buses
Malecn seaside promenade, the areas not covered by the are more comfortable and run
or through the tree-lined tourist buses, but be prepared more often. Vaivn minibuses
streets in the Vedado quarter, to devote plenty of time and also link the airport to the city
or the old Colonial section of patience to each journey. The centre, stopping at the main
town, is a very pleasant ability to speak Spanish will hotels. Fares are cheap and
occupation. Visitors have the help, and be sure to make a there is air conditioning, but it
chance to discover hidden note of the number of the bus might take you a while to get
corners and details of you have to take as well as its to your destination.
buildings that would not be
noticed in a car.
The best places for hailing
taxis are the main arteries
such as Calle 23 in Vedado.
Should you get lost, ask a
local passer-by for help;
Cubans are usually very
courteous and helpful with
foreign tourists.

BUS SERVICES

Travelling by bus in the city

can be something of an
adventure. However, it is
made easier by the hop-on/ The modern Metrobus has replaced the old camello
 T R AV E L I N F O R M A T I O N 315

TAXIS

Certainly the safest and

most comfortable way of
getting about in Havana is by
taxi. There are many cars
bearing the word TAXI, but
not all of them are authorized
to pick up tourists. Official A state-owned taxi, the best way to get from one district to another
taxis can be recognized easily
because they are new and short rides. Besides Havana, RICKSHAWS
well-kept, comfortable, and cocotaxis are now used in
almost always have air almost all Cuban cities. In A more environmentally
conditioning. Avoid illegal Trinidad, for example, friendly but slower alter-
taxis, which have no accident they shuttle from the city native to taxis is to use a rick-
insurance and may often be to Playa Ancn. shaw, or bicitaxi, as they are
more expensive. The official known in Cuba. These are
taxi company is Cubataxi. used by Cubans and tourists
Taxis can be summoned by for short rides in the centre.
phone or hailed in the street. They circulate mostly in
Taxi ranks are found in front Habana Vieja, or can be
of hotels, at the airport and in found outside hotel entrances.
the following two places in
Habana Vieja: by Plaza de DRIVING IN HAVANA
Armas behind el Templete,
and at the corner of Calle People who are used to
Empedrado and Tacn. A heavy traffic in big cities will
quirky alternative is to hire an not find driving in Havana too
old American convertible car, The yellow cocotaxi, an unusual difficult. But it is important to
which are also official taxis; three-seater scooter stay alert at all times and
easily recognisable because watch out for the many
they are in perfect condition HORSE-DRAWN VEHICLES cyclists, pedestrians and even
and have the Grand Car sign dogs, which often run free in
and logo on both sides. These In Habana Vieja it is possible- the streets. Keep speeds low
can usely be found outside to go on an enjoyable sight- in order to be able to spot and
the Hotel Nacional (see p255). seeing tour in horse-drawn avoid the many potholes and
carriages perfectly restored bumps. The road signs and
COCOTAXIS old carts or Colonialstyle car- markings are reasonably good.
riages, quite unlike those In the city centre there are
An original and unusual used by Cubans outside of three tunnels. Two pass
means of transport is the town. These vehicles are not under the Almendares river,
cocotaxi, an egg-shaped cheap, but can be a romantic connecting Vedado and
yellow scooter that can and picturesque way of Miramar (see p109). The other,
carry two passengers as exploring the city. which begins in Plaza Mrtires
well as the driver. It costs The carriage and gig rank is del 71, behind the Castillo de
more or less the same as located in the square between la Punta, takes you rapidly
a taxi, but has no meter and Calle Empedrado and Calle to the other side of the bay
the driver does not give Tacn, at one end of the and the Morro and Cabaa
receipts. It is very useful for handicrafts market. fortresses (see pp11011). The
latter is especially useful for
those heading for the beaches
in Habana del Este (see p113).
The alternative is the long,
winding port road, though
it is easy to get lost.

DIRECTORY
TAXIS

Cubataxi
Tel 855 5555.

Tel 873 5712.

Tel 204 1446.

Tel 204 9518.

A horse-drawn carriage in Calle Obispo, Habana Vieja
316 G E N E R A L I N D E X

General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to Antonio Maceo Airport Ballet
main entries (Santiago de Cuba) 308 Havana 125, 127
Antonio, Pepe 112 rest of Cuba 288, 291
26 de Julio commemoration 35 Appioni, Andrea 101 Ballet de Camagey 200, 201
Aquariums Ballet Folklrico Babul
A Acuario Baconao 235 (Guantnamo) 288, 291
Abaku 23, 43, 91, 112 Acuario Cayo Naranjo Ballet Folklrico Cutumba
Abarca, Silvestre 111 (Guardalavaca) 290, 291 (Santiago de Cuba) 288, 291
Abreu, Leopoldo 162 Acuario Nacional (Havana) Ballet Folklrico de Camagey
Abreu de Estvez, Martha 174 109, 126, 127 288, 291
Accommodation see Camping; Aqvarium (Havana) 126, 127 Ballet Nacional de Cuba
Holiday villages; Hotels; Architecture 245 (Havana) 36, 83, 125, 127
private homes Mudjar style 24, 226 Banes 215
Acea, Nicols Jacinto 168 Trinidad 188 Banks 306
Acua (Varadero) 293, 295 Area codes, telephone 304 Banyan tree 172
Adams, Toms Terry 168 Arstegui (Havana) 91 Baracoa 11, 131, 212, 2423
Addresses, Cuban 305 Arrate, Jos Martn Flix de 74 history 39
Aerocaribbean airline 310, 311 Arrufat, Antn 29 hotels 2667
Africa Art map 243
Casa de Africa (Havana) 73 ceramics 27 restaurants 283
slavery 15, 39, 209 galleries see Museums and Baracoa Bay 2401
Agramonte, Ignacio 200, 201, galleries Barbados 207
203 graphic art 27 Barbern (pilot) 203
Agriculture 52 painting 267 Barbudos, the 49, 51
see also Coffee; Sugar; Art Deco 24, 25, 82, 98, 99, Bariay bay 214
Tobacco 108 Barnet, Miguel 29
Agero, Manuel 201 Art Nouveau 25, 76 Bar, Pedro 99, 104
Aguilera family 104 Asociacin Cultural Yoruba Baroque architecture 24
Aguirre, Mirta 29 (Havana) 126, 127 Barrio Chino (Havana) 90
Air travel 30811 Astaire, Fred 98 Bars
domestic flights 310, 311 Ateneo Cultural (Santiago de Bodeguita del Medio
international flights 3089 Cuba) 290, 291 (Havana) 62, 65, 114, 275,
Airlines 308, 309 Atkins, Edwin 172 276
Airports 3089 Atlantic Ocean 12 Canchnchara (Trinidad)
Albermarle, Lord 41 ATMs 306 182, 275
Aldama y Arrechaga, Domingo Aubusson 100 El Floridita (Havana) 72,
de 25, 84 Autopista Nacional see 126, 127, 275, 277
Aldea Tana (Chorro de Maita) Motorways El Patio (Havana) 62, 277
215 Autumn in Cuba 367 La Isabelica (Santiago de
Aldea Tana (Zapata Avant-garde art 26 Cuba) 223
Peninsula) 165, 166 Avenues see Streets and La Mina (Havana) 72, 276
Alea, Toms Gutirrez 29, 98 avenues La Terraza (Cojmar) 113, 278
Alegra, Antonio 213 Avila, Jcome de 196 Pedrito (Bayamo) 216
Alfonso, Juan Bentez 201 Ay river 193 Baseball 292
Allende, Salvador 91 Ayuntamiento (Santiago de Basilicas see Churches
Almeida, Juan 51 Cuba) 225 Bassano, Jacopo 94
Almendares river 62, 96, 108, Batista y Zaldvar, Fulgencio
109 B attack on Presidential Palace
Alonso, Alicia 36, 83, 99, 125 Babal Ay 117 104, 111
Alto del Naranjo 220 Bacard, Emilio 228 becomes President of Cuba
Alvarez, Santiago 29 tomb 230 46
Amadeo Roldn, Teatro Bacard, Facundo 75 Cuban Revolution 39, 48, 49
(Havana) 124, 127 Bacard building (Havana) 25 dictatorship 47, 102
Ambos Mundos hotel Bacard factory (Santiago de Isla de la Juventud 148, 151
(Havana) 72, 114, 248, 253 Cuba) 223 Museo de la Revolucin
Ambulances 301, 303 Baconao see Parque (Havana) 88, 89
Amrica, Teatro (Havana) 125, Baconao Museo Histrico Naval
127 Bacunayagua bridge 160 Nacional (Cienfuegos) 169
Ancn Peninsula 192 Bacuranao (Playas del Este) Santa Clara 175
hotels 265 113 Bay of Pigs 52, 57, 88, 99,
Andjar, Martn de 64 Baha de Bariay 214 165, 167
Angola 23 Bajo de las Lavanderas 113 see also Playa Girn
Antiguo Ayuntamiento Baker, Josephine 109 La Bayamesa (national
(Cienfuegos) 168 Balboa, Silvestre de 28, 203, anthem) 216, 217
Antilles 12 217 Bayamo 21617
Antommarchi, Francesco 101 Balcn de Velzquez festivals 35
Antonelli, Giovanni Battista (Santiago de Cuba) 2223, history 39, 44
85, 108, 110, 113, 232 225 hotels 267
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 317

Bayona y Chacn, Don Jos Boxing 292 Camagey (cont.)

115 Bremer, Fredrika 160 map 2001
Beaches Britain restaurants 282
Beaches of the North Coast economic interests in Cuba El Cambio bar (Camagey)
1367 47 200
Playas del Este 113 rules Cuba 401 Cameroon 23
see also Cayo; Playa travelling to Cuba from 308 Camping 250, 251
Bedia, Jos 95 British West Indian Welfare Campoamor, Fernando 74
Beer 274 Center (Guantnamo) 289, Caada del Infierno 137
Belau, Paul 82, 88, 89 291 Canal Viejo de Bahamas 197,
Benlliure, Mariano 105 Brooke, John 45 206
Benny Mor International Buena Vista Social Club (film) Canaletto, Antonio 94
Festival (Cienfuegos) 35, 171 31 Canarreos archipelago 14853
Bernhardt, Sarah 82, 83, 158, Buena Vista Social Club Canchnchara (Trinidad) 182,
168 (Havana) 31 275
Betancourt, Esteban 88 Bureaux de change 306 Caonazo (Havana) 111
Betancourt, Luis Victoriano Bus services (Havana) 314 Cantero family 189
219 Business Tips on Cuba Cantineros club (Havana) 275
Betancourt, Salvador Cisneros (monthly) 304, 305 Cao Campos, Jorge 176
141 Bustamante, Antonio Arturo Capitolio (Havana) 25, 54, 57,
Bianchini, Giuseppe 64 Snchez 136 80, 823
Biblioteca Nacional Jos Mart Busto, Manuel del 81, 92 souvenir photographs 285
(Havana) 102 Car hire 313
Bicycles see Cycling C Carabal Izuama see Cabildos
Bienal del Humor (San Caballero, Bruno 171 Carcharinus leucas (shark)
Antonio de los Baos) 34 Cabarets see Nightclubs 206
Birn 216 Cabarrocas (architect) 163
Crdenas 11, 161
Birds 201 Cabildos 43, 70
Crdenas, Agustn de 73, 95
Cabildo Carabal Izuama
Birdwatching 2945 Crdenas, Panchita 112
(Santiago de Cuba) 229, 289,
Boca de Yumur 245 Caribbean 12, 152
291
Cayo Coco 199 diving 147
Cabildo de los Congos
El Yunque 244 pirates 40
Reales de San Antonio
Guanahacabibes Reserve Caridad, Teatro de la (Santa
(Trinidad) 190
146 Clara) 174, 288, 291
Cabo Corrientes 146
Maspotn 138 Carlos III, King of Spain 77,
Cabo Cruz 218
Playa Larga 167 91, 111
Cabo Francs (Isla de la
Presa Zaza 195 Juventud) 150 Carlos V, King of Spain 197
Sierra de Cubitas 206 Cabo San Antonio 146 Carnival
Sierra del Rosario 137 Cabrera Moreno, Servando 27, Havana 35
Zapata Peninsula 164 95 Museo del Carnaval
Black Sea 112 Caburn falls 180, 191 (Santiago de Cuba) 228
Boada, Fernando 72, 88 Cacigal, Governor 69 Santiago de Cuba 35, 229
Bobadilla, Ins de 68 Cacubu 190 Carpaccio, Vittore 94
Bobes, Marilyn 29 CADECA Casas de Cambio 306 Carpentier, Alejo 289, 64
Boca de Dos Rios 45 Cadillacs 69 Bodeguita del Medio
Boca de Guam 166 Caf Teatro Brecht (Havana) (Havana) 65
Boca de Nuevitas 189 124, 127 Fundacin Alejo Carpentier
Boca de Yumur 245 Cafetal La Isabelica (Parque (Havana) 62, 126, 127
Bodeguita del Medio (Havana) Baconao) 234, 2367 Hotel La Rusa (Baracoa) 243
62, 65, 65, 114, 275, 276 Caibarin, hotels 258 tomb 104
Boemi, Salvatore 200 Caimanera 238, 239 Carpintero (bird) 20
Bohemian crystal 185 hotels 267 Carrera, Manuel Jos 25, 84
Bola de Nieve see Villa, Cajimo 166 Carretera Central 312
Ignacio Cajobabo 239 Cars 31213
Bolvar, Simn 84 Calendar of events 347 car hire 313
statue 99 Caleta Buena (Zapata Conjunto de Museos y
Bolivia, Che Guevara killed in Peninsula) 165 Exposiciones de la Punta
176, 231 Calle see Streets and avenues (Parque Baconao) 237
Boquern 238 Calvino, Italo 117 highway code 312
Borrell, Mariano 185 Camacho, Lorenzo 64 Museo del Auto Antiguo
Borrell family 185 Camacho, Toms Felipe 136 (Havana) 67, 69
Borrell y Padrn, Don 189 Camagey 11, 131, 179, 181, number plates 313
Bosque, Luis Ybolen 97 2003 petrol 312
Bosque de los Hroes airport 308 road maps 312
(Santiago de Cuba) 231 festivals 35, 36 road safety 313
Bouguereau, Adolphe history 39 travelling by car 31213
William 94 hotels 263 vintage cars 237
318 G E N E R A L I N D E X

Cartacuba (bird) 20 Casal, Julin del 28 Castro, Fidel (cont.)

Caruso, Enrico 81, 85, 168, 169 Casas, Bartolom de las 39, Plaza de la Revolucin
Caryatid Building (Havana) 58 182, 223, 227 (Havana) 102
Casa de Africa (Havana) 73 Casas de la Cultura 18, 288 regime 17, 523
Casa del Agua La Tinaja Baracoa 242 Santiago de Cuba 225
(Havana) 72 Havana 125, 127 Sierra Maestra 220, 231
Casa de Aldemn Ortiz Trinidad 189 Castro, Ral 51
(Trinidad) 183, 184, 188 Casas, Lus de las 41 Cuban Revolution 48
Casa de las Amricas (Havana) casas particulares 251 Moncada barracks 35, 230
100 Casas de la Trova 16, 290, 291 Sierra Maestra 231
Casa de la Amistad (Havana) Baracoa 242 Catedral see Cathedrals
99, 126, 127 Havana 124 Cathedrals
Casa de los Arabes (Havana) Sancti Spritus 194, 290, 291 Catedral de la Asuncin
67, 69 Santiago de Cuba 224, 228, (Santiago de Cuba) 131, 133,
Casa del Caribe (Santiago de 290, 291 225, 227
Trinidad 183, 189, 290, 291 Catedral de los Campos de
Cuba) 231, 289, 291
Casilda 184, 192 Cuba (Santa Mara del
Casa del Chocolate (Baracoa)
Casino Espaol (Palacio de los Rosario) 115
242
Matrimonios) (Havana) 86 Catedral de Nuestra Seora
Casa del Cientfico (Havana) de la Candelaria (Camagey)
Castillo see Castles and
86 fortifications 200
Casa de la Comedia (Havana) Castillo, Jos Martn del 218 Catedral de la Pursima
124, 127 Castles and fortifications Concepcin (Cienfuegos)
Casa del Conde de Santovenia Castillo de Jagua 168
(Havana) 67 (Cienfuegos) 170, 171 Catedral de San Carlos
Casa del Conde Jaruco Castillo del Morro (Matanzas) 159
(Havana) 76 (Havana) 10, 56, 72, 85, 106, Catedral de San Cristbal
Casa de la Condesa de la 109, 110 (Havana) 24, 57, 63, 64
Reunin (Havana) 62 Castillo del Morro (Santiago Catedral de San Isidro
Casa de los Conspiradores de Cuba) 2323 (Holgun) 212
(Trinidad) 183 Castillo de las Nubes (Soroa) Iglesia de San Juan Bautista
La Casa del Habana (shops) 136 (Remedios) 177
2845 Castillo del Prncipe Nuestra Seora de la
Casa de Diego Velzquez (Havana) 91 Asuncin (Baracoa) 242
(Santiago de Cuba) 225, 226 Castillo de la Real Fuerza Parroquial Mayor (Bayamo)
Casa de Don Toms (Viales) (Havana) 27, 67, 68, 70 217
141 Castillo de San Salvador de Catherine, Empress of Russia
Casa Garay (Pinar del Ro) 141 la Punta (Havana) 85 32
Casa Granda, Hotel (Santiago Castillo de Seboruco Catholicism 22
de Cuba) 224, 248, 269 (Baracoa) 242 Cattle egret 20
Casa de Guayasamn (Havana) Chorrera fort (Havana) 108 Caturla, Alejandro Garca 177
73 Fuerte de la Loma (Las Caves
La Casa del Habano (Havana) Tunas) 207 Cueva de Ambrosio
84 Fuerte Matachn (Baracoa) (Varadero) 163
Casa de Mxico (Havana) 73 243 Cueva del Indio (Valle de
Casa Museo Finca El Abra (Isla Fuerte de la Punta (Baracoa) Viales) 143
de la Juventud) 150 243 Cueva de Martn Infierno
Casa Museo Ignacio Fuerte de Santa Dorotea de (Cienfuegos) 171
Agramonte (Camagey) 201 la Luna en La Chorrera Cueva de los Peces (Zapata
(Havana) 108 Peninsula) 165, 167
Casa de la Msica
Havanas defences 11011 Cueva de los Portales (Pinar
Havana 125, 127
La Trocha (Ciego de vila) 196 del Ro) 138
Trinidad 189
San Carlos de la Cabaa Cueva de Rolando
Casa Natal de Carlos Manuel (Camagey) 206
(Havana) 11011
de Cspedes (Bayamo) 217 Castro, Fidel Cuevas de Bellamar 1601
Casa Natal Jess Montan announces Revolution is Cuevas de Punta del Este
(Nueva Gerona) 148 Socialist 99 (Isla de la Juventud) 151
Casa Natal de Jos Heredia background 51, 209 Gran Caverna de Santo
(Santiago de Cuba) 224, 227 Bay of Pigs 57, 165, 167 Toms (Valle de Viales) 142
Casa Natal Nicols Guilln Birn 216 Grotto Mara Teresa (Sierra
(Camagey) 201 cars 237 de Cubitas) 206
Casa de la Obra Pa (Havana) Cuban Revolution 39, 4751 Grotto Pichardo (Sierra de
66, 73 Granma expedition 88 Cubitas) 206
Casa de la Poesa (Havana) History Will Absolve Me 47, Hoyo de Bonet (Sierra de
126, 127 149, 231 Cubitas) 206
Casa de los Snchez Iznaga Isla de la Juventud 148 La Batata (Topes de
(Trinidad) 183 Moncada barracks 149, 230, Collantes) 191
Casablanca (Havana) 111, 160 236 Cayo Anclita (Camagey) 207
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 319

Cayo de Bariay (Holgun) 214 Center for Cuban Studies 309 Churches (cont.)
Cayo Blanco (Camagey) 207 Central Australia (Zapata Ermita de Nuestra Seora de
Cayo Blanco (Playa Ancn) Peninsula) 165 la Candelaria de la Popa
192 Centro Africano Fernando (Trinidad) 190
Cayo Cantiles (Archipilago de Ortiz (Santiago de Cuba) Ermita de Potos
los Canarreos) 153 231, 289, 291 (Guanabacoa) 112
Cayo Coco 11, 131, 179, 180, Centro de Buceo Meli 293, Iglesia del ngel Custodio
197, 1989 295 (Havana) 87
hotels 2634 Centro de Buceo Mara La Iglesia de la Caridad
map 1989 Gorda 293, 295 (Havana) 90
Cayo Ensenachos, hotels 258 Centro Habana and Prado 10, Iglesia del Carmen
Cayo Granma (Santiago de 7895 (Camagey) 202
Cuba) 233 area map 79 Iglesia del Espritu Santo
Cayo Guajaba (Camagey) 206 hotels 2534 (Havana) 77
Cayo Guillermo 197, 198 restaurants 277 Iglesia de la Inmaculada
hotels 264 street-by-street: around the Concepcin (Crdenas) 161
Cayo Hueso (Havana) 91 Parque Central 801 Iglesia de la Merced
Cayo Iguana (Archipilago de Centro Internacional de Buceo (Camagey) 201
los Canarreos) 153 (Isla de la Juventud) 150 Iglesia de Nuestra Seora
Cayo los Indios (Isla de la Centro de Investigaciones de de la Merced (Havana) 77
Juventud) 150 Ecosistemas Costeras (Cayo Iglesia de la Pursima
Cayo Jutas (Pinar del Ro) 136 Coco) 199 Concepcin (Manzanillo) 218
Cayo Largo del Sur 10, 130, Centro Nacional de Iglesia del Sagrado Corazn
133, 1523, 293 Conservacin, Restauracin de Jess (Havana) 91
airport 308 y Museologa (Havana) 76 Iglesia de San Francisco
hotels 2567 Centro de Prensa Internacional (Trinidad) 130, 182, 189
map 1523 (Havana) 98 Iglesia de San Francisco de
Cayo Las Brujas, hotels 258 Centro Wifredo Lam (Havana) 62 Paula (Havana) 125, 127
Cayo Levisa (Pinar del Ro) Ceramics 27 Iglesia San Juan de Dios
137 Museo Nacional de la (Camagey) 1289, 203
hotels 257 Cermica (Havana) 68 Iglesia de Santa Ana
Cayo Libertad (Varadero) 156 Cerro de la Cantera 221 (Trinidad) 190
Cayo Loco (Cienfuegos) 169 Cerro de Mayabe 212, 213 Iglesia de Santa Rita
Cayo Naranjo (Holgun) 215 Cspedes, Carlos Manuel de (Havana) 109
Cayo Pjaro (Archipilago de 43, 44, 218, 219 Nuestra Seora del Carmen
los Cabarreos) 153 Casa Natal (Bayamo) 217 (Santa Clara) 175
Cayo Paraso (Pinar del Ro) Parque Cspedes (Santiago Nuestra Seora de los
137 de Cuba) 224 Dolores (Nueva Gerona) 148
Cayo Paredn Grande statue 216 Nuestra Seora de Monserrat
(Jardines del Rey) 197 tomb 230 160
Cayo Piedra (Isla de la Cspedes, Carlos Miguel de 108 Nuestra Seora de la
Juventud) 150 Chacn, Luis 65 Soledad (Camagey) 202
Cayo Rico (Archipilago de los Chamber of Deputies 82 Nuestra Seora de la Virgen
Cabarreos) 153 Chang 22, 23 de Regla (Regla) 112
Cayo Romano (Jardines del Charter flights 308 Parroquial Mayor (Havana)
Rey) 197, 206 Chartrand brothers 95 70
Cayo Rosario (Archipilago de Che see Guevara Parroquial Mayor del
los Cabarreos) 153 Chelsea College Rotunda, Espritu Santo (Sancti
Cayo Sabinal (Camagey) Ranelagh House and the Spritus) 195
2067 Thames (Canaletto) 94 Parroquial de Santa Catalina
Cayo Saeta (Holgun) 216 Chevrolets 69 de Riccis (Guantnamo) 238
hotels 267 Chibs, Eduardo 47 Parroquial de la Santsima
Cayo Santa Mara, hotels 258 Children Trinidad (Trinidad) 183, 184
Cementerio see Cemeteries Cuban 1819 Sagrado Corazn de Jess
Cemeteries entertainment for 126, 127, (Viales) 141
Cementerio General 290, 291 San Fulgenico (Gibara) 214
(Camagey) 202 China, Cuban relations with 52 San Juan Bautista
Cementerio General de la Chinese community 90 (Remedios) 157
Reina (Cienfuegos) 171 Chinese Quarter (Havana) see San Pedro de Versalles
Cementerio Monumental Barrio Chino (Matanzas) 158
Toms de Acea (Cienfuegos) Chorro de Maita (Holgun) 215 Santa Elvira (Varadero) 162
170 Christmas 177 Santa Mara del Rosario 115
Cementerio de Santa Ifigenia Churches Santo Cristo del Buen Viaje
(Santiago de Cuba) 230 Baslica del Cobre (Santiago (Camagey) 202
Espada cemetery (Havana) de Cuba) 11, 212, 221 Santuario de San Lzaro (El
70 Baslica Menor de San Rincn) 117
Necropolis de Coln Francisco de Ass (Havana) see also Cathedrals;
(Havana) 56, 85, 1045 74, 125, 127 Monasteries and convents
320 G E N E R A L I N D E X

Churchill, Winston 98 Columbus, Christopher (cont.) Crocodiles 166, 207, 235

Churrigueresque style 65 statues of 66, 161, 227, 243 Cruz de la Parra (Baracoa)
CIA 52, 167, 176 takes tobacco to Spain 32 242
Ciego de vila 11, 179, 196 Comandancia del Che Cruz y Brunet, Nicols de la
airport 308 (Havana) 111 115, 185
Ciego Montero spa 171 Comandancia de La Plata Cuba, Central East 11,
Cienfuegos 11, 155, 16871 (Sierra Maestra) 220 178207
airport 308 Combinado (Isla de la area map 1801
festivals 35 Juventud) 152 hotels 2636
hotels 259 Committees for the Defence of restaurants 282
map 169 the Revolution (CDRs) 17 Cuba, Central West 11,
restaurants 280 Communications 3045 15477
Cienfuegos, Camilo 48, 49, 50, Compay Segundo 30, 31, 222 area map 1567
197 Comunidad Teatral del hotels 25863
Museo de la Revolucin Escambray 173 restaurants 2802
(Havana) 88 Concierto Barroco (Carpentier) Cuba, Eastern 11, 20845
Cienfuegos, Jos 168 29 area map 21011
Cienfuegos province 174 Conga 229 hotels 2669
Cifuentes Llano, Ramn 84 Congo 23 restaurants 283
Cigars 323 Che Guevara in 176 Cuba, Western 10, 13253
factories 84, 90, 141 Conjunto Escultrico area map 1345
shopping for 2845, 286 Comandante Ernesto Che hotels 2568
Cimarrones 42 Guevara (Santa Clara) 176 restaurants 27980
Cinco Esquinas (Camagey) Conjunto Folklrico Nacional Cubamar Viajes 250, 251
202 125, 127 Cuban Communist Party 17,
Cinema, Cuban 29 Conjunto Folklrico de 46, 52, 102
Cinemas, Havana 80, 99, 126, Oriente 288, 291 Cuban Revolution 4751
127 Conjunto de Museos y heroes of the 501
City Walls (Havana) 91 Exposiciones de la Punta history 489
Climate 347, 298 (Baconao) 237 Cubana de Aviacin 308, 310,
Clothing 299 Constable, John 94 311
Clotilde en los jardines de la Constantin, Victor 237 Cubanacn Hoteles 248, 251
Granja (Sorolla) 94 Constitution 17 Cubanacn Nutica 293, 295
Club de Golf Habana 294, 295 Consuegra, Hugo 95 Cubanacn quarter (Havana)
Club de Golf Las Amricas Convento see Monasteries and 108
(Varadero) 294, 295 convents Cubanacn Turismo y Salud
Coach services 311 Convertible pesos 18, 307 248, 250, 251
Cobre, Baslica del 221 Conyedo, Juan de 174 Cubarte: The Portal of Cuban
pilgrimage 36 Coppelia (ice cream chain) 98, Culture 288
Cockerel of Morn 196 99, 271 Cuchillo de Zanja (Havana) 90
Cocktails 275 Coral reefs 20 Cueva(s) see Caves
Cocodrilo (Isla de la Juventud) diving in the Caribbean 147 Cultural centres 290, 291
151 Isla de la Juventud 150 Havana 126, 127
Cocotaxis 315 Jardines de la Reina 207 Currency 18, 3067
Coffee 237, 274 Mara La Gorda 146, 147 Customs, local 299
Coins 307 Corral de Santo Toms (Zapata Customs regulations 298
Cojmar 107, 11213 Peninsula) 164 Cyber Cafs 305
Cole, Nat King 65, 109 Corrales, Ral 51 Cycling 294
Colegio de San Lorenzo Corts, Hernn 192, 223
(Cienfuegos) 168 Cortina, Don Manuel 138 D
Coliseo de la Ciudad Deportiva Costa de los Piratas (Isla de la Daiquir 72, 275
(Boyeros, Havana) 292 Juventud) 1501 Dance 301
Collar (pilot) 203 Costa Sur (Guantnamo) 209, Dance Holidays 250
Collazo, Guillermo 95 239 Danzn 158
Colli, Alfredo 25 Coto de Caza, Aguachales de Dayam 166
Colony, Hotel (Isla de la Fala 197 Debutantes 16, 73
Juventud) 1501, 257, 293 Coto de Caza de Morn 197 Delarra, Jos 175, 176
El Colony (Isla de la Juventud) Council of Ministers (Havana) Delgado, Issac 30
293, 295 17, 102 DellAglio, Daniele 158
Colorados archipelago 1367 Council of State (Havana) 102 Desangles, Luis 217, 227
Columbus, Christopher Courier services 305 Da de San Lzaro (Santiago
Baracoa 242 Credit cards 306 de las Vegas) 37
Cienfuegos 168 Creoles 41 Dialling codes 304
in Cuba 214 Criadero de Cocodrilos Los Das de la Danza
Jardines de la Reina 207 (Zapata Peninsula) 166 (Havana) 34
lands on Cuba 39 Crime 301 Daz Espada y Land, Juan Jos
Manzanillo 219 Cristo de La Habana (Madera) 69
relics 64 111 Daz, Flix del Pino 141
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 321

Daz, Juan 70 Entertainment (cont.) Ferrer, Jos Sirs 169

Diego, Eliseo 29 ballet 125, 127, 288 Ferries 31011
Dimensiones del espejo (Fong) buying tickets (rest of Cuba) Festa de la Virgen del Cobre
27 288 (Santiago de Cuba) 36
Disabled travellers 300 Casas de la Trova 124, 290, Festejos de San Cristbal
in hotels 250 291 (Havana) 37
Discotques see Nightclubs children 126, 127, 290, 291 Festival de Arte Danzario
Disney, Walt 98 cinemas 126, 127 (Havana, Camagey) 34
Distance chart see back classical music and opera Festival Boleros de Oro
endpaper 1245, 127, 288 (Santiago, Morn, Havana)
Diving 147, 293, 295 cultural centres 122, 127, 35
holidays 250 290, 291 Festival del Caribe (Santiago
Dollars, US 306 folklore and traditional de Cuba) 222, 227, 231
Dolphins 108, 109, 235, 290, music 2889 Festival Cubadanzn
291 information 124, 288 (Matanzas) 37
Domestic flights 310 nightclubs, cabarets, discos Festival de La Habana de
Domnguez, Nelson 27, 95 125, 127, 289, 291 Msica Contempornea
Dominica building (Crdenas) rap, rock and jazz 125, 127 (Havana) 36
161 theatres 1245, 127, 288, 291 Festival Internacional de Ballet
Dominoes 16 Ermita see Churches de La Habana 36
Don Quixote (Martnez) 98 Escalera, Nicols de la 115 Festival Internacional de Coros
Donatin, Francisco 141 Espada, Juan Jos Daz de 71 (Santiago de Cuba) 37
Drake, Francis 40, 151 Espejo de Paciencia (Balboa) Festival Internacional de
Drinks 28, 203, 217 Msica Contempornea
rum 75, 274 Espn, Vilma 49 (Camagey) 35
what to drink in Cuba Espinosa, Julio Garca 29 Festival Internacional de
2745 Esquemeling, Oliver 151 Msica Popular Benny Mor
Driving Essler, Fanny 83 (Cienfuegos, Lajas, Havana)
in Cuba 31213 Estadio Latinoamericano 35
in Havana 315 (Havana) 292 Festival Internacional del
Dujo de Santa Fe 101 Estadio Panamericano Nuevo Cine Latinoamericano
Duncan, Isadora 81 (Havana) 292 (Havana) 29, 37, 288
Dupont de Nemours, Alfred Estvez, Abilio 29 Festival Internacional de
Irne 163 Etiquette 299 Percusin (Havana) 34
Eulalia, Princess of Boubon 71 Festival de Monlogos y
E Europe Unipersonales (Havana) 34
Echevarra, Jos Antonio 161 air travel from 308 Festival de Races Africanas
Eco-tourism 248, 250 Cuban relations with Eastern Wemilere (Guanabacoa) 37
Economy 1718, 523 52, 53 Festival de Teatro (Havana,
Ecotur 295 Events 347 Camagey) 36
La Edad de Oro (periodical) 28 Excursions 2945 Festivals 347
Ediciones Viga (Matanzas) ExpoCuba 116 Feria Internacional del Disco
159 Exposicin Mesoamericana Cubadisco (Havana) 34
Edificio Bacard (Havana) 25 (Baconao) 237 Fiesta de la Cultura
Education 1819, 52 Iberoamericana (Holgun) 36
Eiriz, Antonia 27, 95 F Fiesta del Fuego (Santiago de
El Calvario quarter (Trinidad) Fabelo, Roberto 27, 95 Cuba) 35
190 Fbrica de Organos Fiesta del Gallo (Morn) 35,
El Guafe 218 (Holgun) 213 181, 196
El Nicho (Sierra de Fbrica de Tabacos Francisco Fiesta a la Guantanamera
Escambray) 171, 173 Donatin (Pinar del Ro) 141 (Guantnamo) 37
El Yunque 244 Failde, Miguel 158 Fiesta Nacional de la Danza
Elections 17 Fajardo, Juan Cristbal (Santa Clara) 34
Electrical adapters 300 Npoles (El Cucalamb) 207 Fiesta del Ttere (Havana) 35
Eleggu 23 Falla Bonet, Eutimio 177 Figueredo, Pedro 217
Embassies 300 Farallones de Seboruco 216 Figueredo, Perucho 216
Emergency numbers 301, 303 Fast food restaurants 271 Figueroa, Juan Fermn de 159
Emigration 52, 53 Fausto, Teatro (Havana) 87, Figure (Crdenas) 95
Encuentro de Bandas de 124, 127 Finca La Viga (Havana) 10,
Concierto (Bayamo) 35 Fax services 305 107, 114, 115
Encuentro monument (Baha Feria Internacional del Libro Finlay, Carlos 87
de Bariay) 214 (Havana) 37 Fire brigade 301
Engraving Museum (Havana) Fernndez, Joseto 238 The First Mass (Vermay) 69
63 Fernndez, Pablo Armando 29 Fishing 294, 295
Enrquez, Carlos 95 Fernndez, Rafael 25 Morn 197
Entertainment Ferrara, Oreste 101 Presa Zaza 195
in Havana 1247 Ferrer, Esteban 217 Flamingoes 21
in rest of Cuba 28891 Ferrer, Ibrahim 31 Flora 201
322 G E N E R A L I N D E X

Flora (cont.) Gmez, Mximo 81, 176, 177, Guantnamo (cont.)

coral reefs 147 228 festivals 37
palm trees 21, 117, 173, 178, Monument (Havana) 85 history 48
193, 244 Quinta de los Molinos US naval base 45, 52, 238,
Zapata peninsula 164 (Havana) 101 239
see also Parks and gardens War of Independence 44, 77, Guantnamo province 209,
Florencia 197 239 234
Flores amarillas (Pelez) 95 Gmez de Avellaneda, Guardalavaca 11, 215
Florida 41 Gertrudis 28, 36, 161, 202 hotels 268
El Floridita (Havana) 72, 113, Gonzlez, Felipe Lpez 228 restaurants 283
114, 126, 127, 275, 277 Gonzlez, Leovigildo 142 Guardi, Francesco 94
Focsa, Edificio (Havana) 98 Gonzlez, Mariano Miguel 89 Guatemala 167
Fondesviela, Felipe 70 Gonzlez, Marquis 74 El Guayabero 222
Fondo de Bienes Culturales Gonzlez, Rubn 31 Guayabita del Pinar 141
(Baracoa) 242 Gonzlez, Salvador 91 Guernica 69
Fong, Flora 27 Gorgoza, Luis 91 Guerra chica 44
Fonseca, Ever 27, 95 Govantes (architect) 163 Guevara, Ernesto Che 176
Food Goyri de la Hoz, Amelia 105 Bosque de los Hroes
Flavours of Cuba 2723 Gran Caribe 248, 251 (Santiago de Cuba) 231
see also Drinks; Restaurants Gran Caverna de Santo Toms Comandancia del Che 111
Ford (car) 69, 237 (Valle de Viales) 142 Conjunto Escultrico
Forestier, Jean 59, 79, 86 Gran Parque Nacional Sierra Comandante Ernesto Che
Form, Space and Light (Longa) Maestra 220 Guevara (Santa Clara) 176
93 Gran Piedra 234, 236 Cuban Revolution 39, 47, 48,
Fornaris, Jos 217 Gran Teatro de La Habana 49, 50
Forts see Castles and (Havana) 80, 823, 89, 124 Cueva de los Portales 138
fortifications Granado, Alberto 176 literacy campaign 52
Fountain of the Muses Grand National Masonic Museo de la Revolucin
(Tropicana, Havana) 109 Temple (Havana) 91 (Havana) 88
France 40 Granjita Siboney 236 Santa Clara 155, 156, 174,
Frank Pas Airport (Holgun) Granma (daily paper) 304, 175
308 305 sculpture of 102
Fruit shakes and squashes 274 Granma Internacional Sierra Maestra 220
La fruta cubana (Havana) 98 (weekly) 304, 305 Guilln, Nicols 20, 28, 51, 65
Fuente de la India (Havana) Granma province 209, 216, Casa Natal (Camagey) 201
84 219, 220 Guiol, Teatro (Havana) 126,
Fuente de los Leones hotels 267 127
(Havana) 74 Granma (yacht) 48, 49, 50, 51, Guiol, Teatro de Holgun
Fuerte see Castles and 218 290, 291
fortifications Granma Memorial 88 Gira 199
Fuerzas Armadas Graphic art 27 Gulf fritillary 20
Revolucionarias Monument Grau San Martn 108 Gutirrez, David 184
(Havana) 105 Greater Havana 10617
Fundacin Alejo Carpentier hotels 2556 H
(Havana) 126, 127 map 107 Habaguanex 248, 251
Fundacin Fernando Ortz restaurants 2789 La Habana en rojo
(Havana) 126, 127 Greene, Graham 87, 224 (Portocarrero) 93
Fuentes, Gregorio 114, 115 Greetings 299 Habana Libre, Hotel (Havana)
Gros, Antoine 101 25, 27, 98, 255
G Grottoes see Caves Habana Vieja 10, 6077
Gaggini, Giuseppe 57, 74, 84 Grupo Teatro Escambray 288, area map 61
Gamba, Aldo 85, 109 291 hotels 2523
Garay, Sindo 30, 85 Guacanayabo Gulf 218 restaurants 2767
Garca, Calixto 158, 213 Guachinango Mansion (Valle street-by-street: Plaza de
Casa Natal (Holgun) 212 de los Ingenios) 193 Armas 667
Garca, Vctor Manuel 26, 95 Guam 156, 165, 166, 223 street-by-street: Plaza de la
Garibaldi, Giuseppe 72 Guamuhaya 185 Catedral 623
Gassiot, Carlos 33 Guanabacoa 112 Hacha de Holgun 212
Gaviota Tours 248, 251, 295 festivals 37 Hacienda Codina (Topes de
Gellhorn, Martha 114 Guanabo (Playas del Este) 113 Collantes) 191
Gibara 213, 214 Guanahacabibes Peninsula Haiti 42, 234, 245
Giraldilla 67, 68, 70 133, 146 Hammel, Fernando 91
Giron, Gilbert 167, 217 hotels 257 Hanabanilla, Embalse 173
Gitana tropical (Garca) 26, Guanahacabibes Reserve 146 hotels 259
95 Guanajatabey Indians 39 Handicrafts 285, 2867
Golf 294 Guaniguanico mountains 136 Plaza de Armas market 69
Gmez, Jos Miguel 46, 86 Guantanamera (song) 238 Hatibonico river 203
Gmez, Manuel Octavio 29 Guantnamo 238 Hatuey 39, 209, 217, 219, 242
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 323

Havana 10, 54127 Horse-riding 294 Isabella II, Queen 158, 207
airport 308, 309 Hospital de San Juan de Dios Isla de la Juventud 10, 133,
architecture 245, 58 (Camagey) 203 14851
Centro Habana and Prado Hospitals and clinics 303 airport 308
7895 Hot drinks 274 area map 1489
Cuban Revolution 48, 49, 50 Hotels 24869 hotels 257
entertainment 1247 booking 249 restaurants 279
festivals 29, 347 Central Cuba East 2636 Isla Turiguan (Morn) 197
Further Afield 10617 Central Cuba West 25863 Island 70 (Martnez) 27
getting around Havana chains 248, 251 Islands in the Stream
31415 choosing a hotel 25269 (Hemingway) 137
Habana Vieja 6077 disabled travellers 250 Islazul 248, 251
Havanas defences 110 Eastern Cuba 2669 Itabo river 113
history 39, 40, 41, 45, 46 grading 249 Iznaga family 193, 194
hotels 2526 Havana 2526
map: Havana at a glance
holiday villages 249
J
567 Jagua Indians 155, 168
prices 249
map: Street Finder 11823 Jagey Grande 166
tipping 249 Jaime Gonzlez Airport
population 12
restaurants 2769 Western Cuba 2568 (Cienfuegos) 308
Vedado and Plaza 96105 see also Private homes Jamaica 234
Havana Club Foundation 74 House of Alejandro Garca Jardn see Parks and gardens
Havanatur Pesca y Caza 294, Caturla (Remedios) 177 Jardines de la Reina 147, 207
295 Hoyo de Monterrey 138 diving 293
Health 3023 Hubert de Blanck, Teatro Jardines del Rey 131, 197
Cuban healthcare 19 (Havana) 124, 127 Jatibonico 312
emergency numbers 303 La Huella de Espaa (Havana) Jazz clubs 125, 127
Health farms 250 34 Jesuits (Company of Jesus) 51,
Health tourism 303 Humboldt, Alexander von 148, 64, 65, 91
Helms-Burton Law 53 182, 185 El Jige restaurant (Trinidad)
Hemingway, Ernest 114, 137 Hunting 294, 295 189
Baslica del Cobre 221 Maspotn 138 Jimnez y Castellanos,
Bodeguita del Medio 62, 65 Morn 197 governor 45
Cojmar 11213 Hurricanes 36 Jineterismo 113, 300
El Floridita (Havana) 72, 275 John Paul II, Pope 53, 64, 102,
Finca La Viga 115 I 221
Hotel Ambos Mundos Idolo de Bayamo (Havana) 101 Jornada Cucalamb (Ciego de
(Havana) 72 Idolo de Oro (Banes) 215 vila) 289, 291
Hemingway International Idolo del Tabaco (Havana) 101 Jornada Cucalambeana,
Marlin Fishing Tournament Iglesia see Churches Encuentro Festival de la
294 Ignacio Agramonte Airport Dcima (Las Tunas) 35, 207
Heredia, Emilio 92 (Camagey) 308 Jorrn, Enrique 141
Heredia, Jos Mara de 28, 41, Illnesses 3023 Jos Mara Heredia theatre
224, 227 Independence, Cuban 456 (Santiago de Cuba) 288, 291
Heredia, Teatro (Santiago de Infante, Guillermo Cabrera 29 Jos Mart Airport (Havana)
Cuba) 288, 291 Ingenios (sugar factories) 423 308, 309
Hernndez Giro, Juan Emilio Valle de los Ingenios 1923 Jos Mart theatre (Santiago de
228 Inglaterra, Hotel (Havana) 81, Cuba) 288, 291
Hernndez Guivernau, Blanca 82, 254 Juan Gualberto Gmez Airport
176 Iigo, Angel 238 (Varadero) 308
Herr, Antonio 184 Jcaro 196, 207
Insects 303
Hershey train 160
Institute of Books (Havana) 66
Hicacos peninsula 162, 163
Instituto Cubano del Arte e
K
Highway code 312 Karl Marx, Teatro (Havana)
Hiking 2945 Industria Cinematogrficos 125, 127
Sierra Maestra 220 (ICAIC) (Havana) 29, 99 Keaton, Buster 98
History 3953 Instituto de Historia de Cuba Kennedy, J.F. 52, 167
Hitch-hiking 299, 312 (Havana) 85 Khrushchev, Nikita 51, 52
Holgun 21213 Interior with Columns (Pelez) Kid Chocolate 19
airport 308 26 King Rancho 203
festivals 36 International Book Fair Korbel, Lev 116
hotels 267 (Havana) 28, 37 Korbel, Mario 101
map 213 Internet access 305 Korda, Alberto 102, 176
restaurants 283 Interno del Cerro
Holgun province 209 (Portocarrero) 26 L
Holiday villages 249 Isabel Mara 237 La Bajada (Guanahacabibes)
Cayo Largo 152 La Isabelica caf (Santiago de 146
Horse-drawn vehicles 315 Cuba) 223 La Boca (Pennsula Ancn) 192
324 G E N E R A L I N D E X

La Demajagua 218, 219 Los Van Van 31 Maps (cont,)

La Farola 239 Loynaz, Dulce Mara 29, 174 Holgun 213
La Plata barracks 49 Lumire, Louis-Jean and Isla de la Juventud 1489
Laguna Baconao 235 Auguste 80 Matanzas 159
Laguna de Leche (Morn) 197 Necrpolis de Coln
Laguna de Mangn 163 M (Havana) 1045
Laguna Redonda (Morn) 197 Macagua 173 Parque Baconao 2345
Laguna de las Salinas 164 Maceo, Antonio 44, 82, 140, Pinar del Ro 140
Laguna del Tesoro (Guam) 228 road maps 312
166 Casa Natal (Santiago de Sancti Spritus 195
Lagunillas, Count de 92 Cuba) 230 Santa Clara 175
Lajas, festivals 35 statue 231 Santiago de Cuba 2223
Lam, Wifredo 26, 27, 93, 95, tomb 230 Topes de Collantes 191
228 Machado, Gerardo 39, 46, 231 Towards Santiago via Cabo
Centro Wifredo Lam Capitolio (Havana) 82 Cruz 21819
(Havana) 62 Presidio Modelo 149 Valle de Viales 1423
Lambert, Ursule 136 Madera, Jilma 111 Varadero 1623
Landscape 201 La Madriguera (Havana) 125, Western Cuba 1345
Language 299 127 Zapata Peninsula 1645
phrase book 3356 Magnasco, Alessandro 94 March, Aleida 176
Las Casas river 148 Maguanay 166 Marea del Portillo 219
Las Cuevas 220 Maine battleship 44, 58, 100 Mara Aguilar 192
Mais 245 Mara La Gorda 10, 146, 147
Las Terrazas 137
Malecn (Baracoa) 243 Mariano (Havana) 109
hotels 257
Malecn (Havana) 589, 96, Marie Antoinette 100
Las Tunas 11, 179, 207
98, 100 Mariel 53, 137
festivals 35
El Malecn (Mendive) 95 Marina Cayo Largo 152
Las Villas (former province)
El Mamb theatre (Santiago de Marina Hemingway 114, 137,
174
Cuba) 288, 291 294, 295
Lasa, Catalina 99, 104 Manaca Iznaga estate 193
Latin America, Cuban relations hotels 255
Manantiales river 136 Marina Punta Gorda 233
with 53 Mangroves 21 Marina Veneciana 113
Law, Cuban 300 Manifesto de Montecristi 77 Marinas 294, 295
Lecuona, Ernesto 28, 30, 83, Mano Poderosa (Museo de Marinas Marlin 294
112 Guanabacoa) 112 Markets see Shops and
Leiva y Aguilera, Herminio Mansin Xanad (Varadero) markets
174 163 Mrmol, Lino Snchez 168
Lenin, V.I. 116 Manzana de Gmez (Havana) Mrquez, Gabriel Garca 29,
Lezcay, Alberto 228, 231 81, 100 65
Liberty (Lezcay) 228 Manzanillo 211, 21819 Marruz, Fina Garca 29
Liceo Artstico y Literario airport 308 Mart, Jos 18, 28, 228, 238
(Havana) 112 history 43 Biblioteca Nacional Jos
Lifestyle, Cuban 16 Maps Mart 102
Lima, Jos Lezama 28, 29 Baracoa 243 Hotel Inglaterra (Havana) 82
Lincoln, Abraham 84 Beaches of the North Coast Iglesia del ngel Custodio
Literacy 18, 52 1367 87
Literature 289 Camagey 2001 Isla de la Juventud 150, 151
Llins, Guido 27, 95 Cayo Coco 1989 Liceo Artstico y Literario
Lobo, Julio 101 Cayo Largo del Sur 1523 (Havana) 112
Loira, Calixto de 104 Central Cuba East 1801 Memorial Jos Mart
Loma de la Cruz (Holgun) Central Cuba West 1567 (Havana) 56, 103
21213 Cienfuegos 169 Museo Jos Mart (Havana)
Loma del Puerto (Cayo Coco) Cuba 1213, 1301 77
198 Cuban Revolution 489 Palacio de los Capitanes
Lomas de Yateras 238 Eastern Cuba 21011 Generales (Havana) 72
Longa, Rita 93, 104, 109, 156, Havana: A walk through Parque de la Fraternidad
166 Miramar 1089 (Havana) 84
Lonja del Comercia (Havana) Havana: A walk through portrait 77
74 Vedado 989 Real Crcel (Havana) 85
Lpez, Csar 29 Havana: at a glance 567 statues 80, 81, 102, 103, 159,
Lpez, Narciso 161 Havana: Centro Habana and 168
Lorca, Federico Garca 80, 85, Prado 79 tomb 230
222 Havana: Greater Havana 107 War of Independence 44,
Los Ballenatos islands 207 Havana: La Habana Vieja 61 45, 239
Los Canarreos archipelago Havana: Playas del Este 113 Martnez, Buenaventura 228
133, 134, 147, 148, 294 Havana: Street Finder Martnez, Ral 27, 38, 95
Los Colorados archipelago 11823 Martnez, Sergio 98
136, 137 Havana: Vedado and Plaza 97 Martnez de Pinillos, Claudio 74
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 325

Mrtires del Asalto al Palacio Miramar (Havana) (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
Presidencial (Havana) 104 hotels 255 Centro Wifredo Lam
Maruri, Rodolfo 88 map 1089 (Havana) 62
Maspotn 138 restaurants 2789 Comandancia del Che
Matamoros Son (Santiago de Missile crisis 51, 52, 111 (Havana) 111
Cuba) 36 Mogotes 20, 132, 134, 1423 Conjunto de Museos y
Matamoros Tro 30, 85, 171 Monasteries and convents Exposiciones de la Punta
Matanzas 11, 155, 1589, 160 Convento de San Francisco (Baconao) 237
festivals 37 (Trinidad) 182, 189 Engraving Museum
map 159 Convento de San Juan de (Havana) 63
Matos, Hubert 50 Dios (Camagey) 1289 Exposicin Mesoamericana
Maundy Thursday Procession Convento de Santa Clara (Baconao) 237
(Trinidad) 184 (Havana) 76 Felipe Poey Museum of
Mximo Gmez Airport (Ciego Monastery of St John Lateran Natural History (Havana)
de vila) 308 (Havana) 100 101
Maya Cuba (car) 237 Moncada army barracks Granjita Siboney (Parque
Mayar 51, 216 (Santiago de Cuba) 47, 48, Baconao) 236
Media Luna 218 149, 209, 2301, 236 House of Alejandro Garca
Medical treatment 302 Money 3067 Caturla (Remedios) 177
Mediopunto (stained-glass Montaner, Rita 30, 109, 112 Muestras Aborgenes
windows) 25, 65, 76, 101 Monument to Lenin (Korbel) (Guam) 166
Melero, Miguel 105 116 Museo Abel Santamara
Mella, Julio Antonio 46, 101 Monument to Mximo Gmez Cuadrado (Santiago de
Mella, Teatro (Havana)124 127 (Havana) 85 Cuba) 231
Memling, Hans 92 Morales, Guillermo Garca 51 Museo de Ambiente
Memorial to Jos Mart Mor, Maximiliano Bartolom Histrico Cubano (Santiago
(Havana) 56, 103 (Benny) 30, 35, 171, 237 de Cuba) 225, 226
Mena, Jos Gmez 100 Moretti, Giuseppe 83 Museo Antropolgico
Mendive, Manuel 27, 95 Morey, Antonio Rodrguez 89 Montan 101
Mendoza, Sister Catalina de 76 Morgan, Henry 40, 151, 179 Museo de Armas y
Mendoza, Hurtado de 174 Morn 1967 Fortificaciones (Havana) 111
Menndez, Jos 25 festivals 35, 181 Museo de Arqueologa
Menocal, Armando Garca 89, hotels 264 Guamuhaya (Trinidad) 182,
95, 101 Motorboats 294, 295 185
Menocal, Mario Garca 88 Motorways 312 Museo de Arquitectura
Mercado de Cuatro Caminos Movimento 26 de Julio 49, 50, Colonial (Trinidad) 183, 184
(Havana) 285 51 Museo de Arte Colonial
Mercados agropecuarios 285 Moya, Snchez de 221 (Havana) 63, 65
Merlin, Countess of 76 Mudejar architecture 24, 226 Museo de Arte Colonial
Meseta de Pinares de Mayar Muelle de Luz (Havana) 112 (Sancti Spritus) 194
216 Multi-purpose arenas 292 Museo de Artes Decorativas
Meucci, Antonio 83 Mural de la Prehistoria (Gibara) 214
Mexico (Gonzlez) 142 Museo de Artes Decorativas
Castro in exile in 47, 48 Murillo, Bartolom Esteban 92, (Havana) 100
conquest of 192 94 Museo de Artes Decorativas
Granma expedition 88 Museums and galleries (Santa Clara) 174
Mexico, Gulf of 12, 15 Cafetal La Isabelica (Parque Museo del Auto Antiguo
Mi Cayito 113 Baconao) 234, 2367 (Havana) 67, 69
Miami 53 Casa de Diego Velzquez Museo del Carnaval
Miel y Sainz, Gerardo 141 (Santiago de Cuba) 225, 226 (Santiago de Cuba) 228,
La Milagrosa (statue) 105 Casa Museo Finca El Abra 289, 291
Milans, Jos Jacinto 141 (Isla de la Juventud) 150 Museo Casa Natal de Jos
Milans, Pablo 31 Casa Museo Ignacio Antonio Echevarra
Milans, Teatro (Pinar del Ro) Agramonte (Camagey) 201 (Crdenas) 161
141 Casa Natal de Antonio Museo de Ciencias Naturales
La Mina restaurant (Havana) Maceo (Santiago de Cuba) (Gibara) 214
72, 276 230 Museo de Ciencias Naturales
Ministerio del Interior Casa Natal de Calixto Garca (Nueva Gerona) 148
(Havana) 102, 103 (Holgun) 212 Museo de la Ciudad
Ministry of Communications Casa Natal de Carlos Manuel (Havana) 68, 70
(Havana) 102 de Cspedes (Bayamo) 217 Museo de la Comandancia
Mirador de la Loma del Puerto Casa Natal Jess Montan (Zapata Peninsula) 165
(Valle de los Ingenios) 193 (Nueva Gerona) 148 Museo de la Danza
Mirador Los Malones Casa Natal de Jos Mara (Havana) 99
(Guantnamo) 238 Heredia (Santiago de Cuba) Museo Eclesistico (Santiago
Mirador de Mayabe 224, 227 de Cuba) 227
(Holgun) 213 Casa Natal Nicols Guilln Museo Espeleolgico
Miramar (Havana) 10, 107, 1089 (Camagey) 201 (Trinidad) 190
326 G E N E R A L I N D E X

Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) Nightclubs (cont.)
Museo Farmacutico de Museo Provincial rest of Cuba 289, 291
Matanzas 159 (Matanzas) 158 Nio de la Bota (Santa Clara)
Museo Girn 167 Museo Provincial Bacard 174
Museo de Historia Natural Moreau (Santiago de Cuba) Nipe Bay 216, 221
Carlos de la Torre y Huerta 224, 228 Niquero 48
(Holgun) 212 Museo Provincial de Historia Norman, Herman 77
Museo Histrico 26 de Julio (Pinar del Ro) 141 Nueva Gerona 1489, 151
Cuartel Moncada (Santiago Museo Provincial Ignacio Nuevitas Bay 200, 206, 207
de Cuba) 2301 Agramonte (Camagey) 203 Number plates 313
Museo Histrico Museo de la Revolucin
Municipal (Trinidad) 183, (Havana) 10, 57, 889 O
189 Museo Romntico (Trinidad) Obbatal 22, 23, 77
182, 185 Obispo y Bernaza Square
Museo Histrico Naval
Museo del Ron (Havana) 74 (Havana) 72
Nacional (Cienfuegos) 169
Museo del Ron (Santiago de Ocampo, Sebastin 155
Museo Histrico Provincial
Cuba) 223 Ochn 22, 23, 221
(Ciego de vila) 196
Museo Zoolgico de Piedra ODonnel, Leopoldo 110
Museo Histrico Provincial Oficina del Historiador de la
(Guantnamo) 238
(Las Tunas) 207 Ciudad (Havana) 72
Open-air Museum (near
Museo Indocubano Bani Holgun) 213 Oggn 190
(Banes) 215 Palacio de los Marqueses de Ojeda, Alonso de 207
Museo Jos Mart (Havana) Arcos (Havana) 63 The Old Man and the Sea
77 La Periquera (Museo (Hemingway) 113
Museo de la Lucha Provincial de la Historia) Oliva, Juan 184
Clandestina (Santiago de (Holgun) 212 Oliva, Pedro Pablo 27
Cuba) 228 Prado de las Esculturas Olofi 22, 117
Museo de la Lucha contra (Parque Baconao) 234 Olympic Games 19
Bandidos (Trinidad) 189 Music 16, 301 Opening hours 300
Museo de la Maqueta Cuban musical instruments Organized tours 309
(Havana) 109 31 Oriente see Cuba, Eastern
Museo Monogrfico see also Entertainment Orquideario de Soroa 136
(Havana) 111 Orthodox Party 47
Museo Municipal (Varadero) N Ortiz, Benito 184
162 Nacional de Cuba, Teatro Ortz, Fernando 43, 73, 85, 151
Museo Municipal Celia (Havana) 102, 124 Our Man in Havana (Greene)
Snchez Manduley (Piln) Nacional, Hotel (Havana) 10, 87, 224
219 98, 248, 255 Outdoor activities 2935
Museo Municipal de Napoleon Bonaparte 101
Guanabacoa 112 Naranjo Bay 210, 215 P
Museo Municipal de Morn National anthem 85, 216, 217 Pabelln Cuba (Havana) 98
1967 National Assembly 1617 Package holidays 309
Museo Municipal de Nueva National holidays 37 Packard (car) 69
Gerona 148 National Library of Science Padrn, Don Antonio 185
Museo Municipal Oscar and Technology (Havana) Padura, Leonardo 29
82 Painting 267
Mara de Rojas (Crdenas)
National parks see also Museums and
161
Gran Parque Nacional Sierra galleries
Museo Nacional de Bellas
Maestra 220 Pas, Frank 50, 228
Artes (Havana) 10, 81, 925,
Gran Parque Natural de tomb 230
203 Palacio
Montemar 164, 166
Museo Nacional de la Parque Nacional de Aldama (Havana) 25,
Cermica Cubana (Havana) Desembarco del Granma 845, 90
68 218 Brunet (Trinidad) 182, 185
Museo Nacional de la Msica Necrpolis de Coln (Havana) Cantero (Trinidad) 189
(Havana) 78, 85, 125, 127 56, 85, 1045 de los Capitanes Generales
Museo Napolenico Neo-Classical architecture 25, (Havana) 24, 57, 66, 701, 72
(Havana) 101 82, 98 del Centro Asturiano
Museo Numismtico Neruda, Pablo 65 (Havana) 81, 92, 94
(Havana) 69 Netherlands 40 del Centro Gallego (Havana)
Museo de las Parrandas New World 39, 40, 110 82, 83
Remedianas 177 Newspapers 305 Collado (Camagey) 200
Museo Postal Cubano Nganga 91 del Conde Lombillo
(Havana) 102 Nicaragua 167 (Havana) 63
Museo Provincial Nicholas II, Tsar 83 Cueto (hotel) (Havana) 76
(Cienfuegos) 168 Nigeria 22, 23 Ferrer (Cienfuegos) 169
Museo Provincial Nightclubs de Guasch (Pinar del Ro)
(Guantnamo) 238 in Havana 125, 127 25, 1401
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 327

Palacio (cont.) Parque Ignacio Agramonte Pennsula de Zapata see

Jaruco (Havana) 24 (Camagey) 200, 202 Zapata Peninsula
de los Marqueses de Aguas Parque Independencia Perch 171
Claras (Havana) 62 (Baracoa) 242 Perera, Jos 115
de los Marqueses de Arcos Parque La Gira (San Diego Prez Cubilla, Rogelio 140
(Havana) 63 de los Baos) 138 Prez, Leonor 77
de los Matrimonios Parque Lenin (Havana) 116 Prez, Pedro A. 238
(Havana) 86 Parque Leoncio Vidal (Santa Prez Chaumont, Mina 109
de la Revolucin (Havana) Clara) 174 Prez Prado, Dmaso 30, 171
102 Parque Libertad (Matanzas) Periodicals 305
del Segundo Cabo (Havana) 159 Perodo Especial 53
24, 66 Parque Luz Caballero La Periquera (Holgun) 212
de Valle 25 (Havana) 126, 127 Perla de Cuba, Hotel (Sancti
de Valle (Punta Gorda) 170 Parque Maceo Osorio Spritus) 195
Paladares (restaurants) 270 (Bayamo) 217 Perovani, Giuseppe 64
Palenque de los Cimarrones Parque Mart (Cienfuegos) Personal security 301
143 Pesos 307
168
Palenque de los Congos Petrol 312
Parque Mart (Viales) 141
Reales (Trinidad) 288, 291 Pharmacies 302, 303
Parque Metropoliano de La
Palm trees 21, 117, 178, 193, Phrase book 3356
244 Habana 126, 127 Piazetta, Giovanni Battista 94
Palma, Jos Joaqun 217 Parque Natural Ro Toa 244 Picasso, Pablo 26
Palma, Toms Estrada 45 Parque Peralta (Holgun) Pichardo, Rodrguez 92
Palmares 270 212 Pichardo grottoes 206
Palo Monte 23, 91, 112, 190 Parque El Quijote (Havana) Pico, Galn 244
Panathenaean Amphora 98 Pico San Juan 173
(Havana) 92 Parque Retiro Josone Pico Turquino 20, 220
Papalote, Teatro (Matanzas) (Varadero) 130, 162 La Piedad (Longa) 104
288, 291 Parque San Jos (Holgun) Pietrasanta, Luigi 71
Parador La Silla 199 212 Pilar (Yacht) 114, 115
Paris, Treaty of 41, 45 Parque Serafn Snchez Piln 219
Parks and gardens (Sancti Spritus) 195 Pinar del Ro 134, 1401
Gran Parque Natural de Parque Tudury (Santa Clara) hotels 2578
Montemar 164, 166 175 map 140
Jardn Botnico (Havana) Parque Zoolgico Nacional restaurants 279
11617 (Havana) 116 Pinar del Ro province 133
Jardn Botnico de la Gran Valle de la Prehistoria Piera, Virgilio 29
Piedra 236 (Parque Baconao) 234 Pinzn, Gernimo Martn 68
Jardn Botnico Soledad see also National parks Pirates 401
(Cienfuegos) 1723 Parliament (Havana) 823 Plantations
Orquideario de Soroa 136 Parque Central, Hotel coffee 237
Parque Almendares (Havana) 81, 254 sugar 423
(Havana) 109 Parrandas 37 Platt Amendment 45, 46, 239
Parque Baconao 11, 2347 Ciego de vila 196 Playa Ancn 192
exploring 2367 Remedios 177 Playa Bianca 153
hotels 2678 Parroquial see Cathedrals; Playa Bibijagua 149
map 2345 Churches Playa Bonita 207
Parque Calixto Garca Partags Ravelo, Jaime 84 Playa Brava 207
(Holgun) 212 Partido Revolucionario Playa Covarrubias 207
Parque Casino Campestre Playa Daiquir 235
Cubano 44
(Camagey) 203 Playa Don Lino 214
Pasacaballos hotel (near
Parque Central (Havana) Playa Esmeralda 268
Cienfuegos) 171
801, 101 Playa Flamencos 199
Parque Central (Varadero) Pascual y Baguer, Miguel 115
Playa Girn 52, 165, 167
162 Paseo Militar (Havana) 84, 91 see also Bay of Pigs
Parque Cspedes (Santiago Paseo del Prado (Cienfuegos) Playa Guardalavaca, hotels
de Cuba) 210, 222, 2247 157, 169 268
exploring 2267 Paseo del Prado (Havana) 25, Playa Larga 165, 167
street-by-street map 2245 81, 867 Playa Las Coloradas 48, 49,
Parque Cspedes (Trinidad) Paso de los Paredones 206 218
190 Passports 298 Playa Lindamar 152
Parque de la Fraternidad Paula quarter (Havana) 77 Playa Los Cocos (Camagey)
(Havana) 80, 84, 91 Pavlova, Anna 81, 82, 158 2045, 206
Parque Histrico Abel Paz, Senel 29 Playa Los Cocos (Cayo Largo)
Santamara (Santiago de Pedroso, Ivn 19, 292 152, 153
Cuba) 231 Pelez, Amelia 26, 27, 95, 98 Playa Los Pinos 207
Parque Histrico-Militar Pea Pobre (Havana) 87 Playa Maguana 245
(Havana) 110 Pennsula Ancn see Ancn Playa Paraso 152
328 G E N E R A L I N D E X

Playa Pesquero, hotels 268 Prat Puig, Francisco 226 Republic, foundation of 456
Playa Prohibida 180, 198 Presa Zaza 195 Restaurants 2701, 27683
Playa Rancho Luna 171 Presidio Modelo prison 149, Central Cuba East 282
Playa Roja 150 151 Central Cuba West 2802
Playa Santa Luca 136, 147, Prieto, Abel 29 Eastern Cuba 283
206, 293 Prieto, Alfonso 27 fast food 271
hotels 265 Primero de Mayo (Havana) 34 Flavours of Cuba 2723
Playa Siboney 234 Principal, Teatro (Camagey) Havana 2769
Playa Sirena 152 88, 201, 288, 291 hotel restaurants 25269
Playa Tortuga 133, 152, 153 Principal, Teatro (Ciego de La Amricas (Varadero) 163
Playas del Este 10, 107, 113 vila) 196 paladares 270
hotels 256 Principal, Teatro (Sancti paying 271
Playita de 16 (Havana) 109 Spritus) 194 private homes 271
Plaza de Armas (Havana) Private homes Western Cuba 27980
667, 69, 72 when to eat 271
meals in 271
Plaza de Armas (Santiago de Rev, Helio 238
rooms in 251
Cuba) 2245 Revilla de Camargo, Countess
Prostitution 300
Plaza de la Catedral (Havana) of 100
57, 623 Public holidays 37
Reville, Roger 141
Plaza del Himno (Bayamo) Public telephones 3045 Ribalaigua, Constante 72
216 Public toilets 302 Rickshaws 315
Plaza Hotel (Havana) 81, 248, Public transport Rijo, Rudesindo Antonio
254 getting around Cuba 31011 Garca 194
Plaza Hotel (Sancti Spritus) Havana 31415 Ro de Mares 214
195, 265 Puerta y Arrieta, Martn Calvo Ro Miel 245
Plaza de Marte (Santiago de de la 73 Ro Negro 173
Cuba) 231 Puerto Padre 207 Ro Toa 244
Plaza Mayor (Trinidad) Punta del Este (Isla de la Rivera, Diego 142
around Plaza Mayor 189 Juventud) 39, 151 Riviera del Caribe 220
exploring 1845 Punta Gorda 155, 170 Road maps 312
street-by-street map 1823 Punta Hicacos 163 Road safety 301, 313
Plaza de la Revolucin Punta de Palma 138 Road travel 31213
(Bayamo) 216, 217 Punta Pardenales 150 Robert, Hubert 100
Plaza de la Revolucin Roca, Pedro de la 232
(Havana) 10, 17, 56, 64, 99, Q Rock paintings 39, 150, 151
102, 103 Querol, Agustn 105 Roda, Cristbal de 85
Plaza de la Revolucin Quiones, Francisco Virgil de Rodrguez, Esteban 25
(Holgun) 213 177 Rodrguez, Flix Pita 29
Plaza de la Revolucin Quinta de los Molinos Rodrguez, Silvio 31
(Santiago de Cuba) 231 (Havana) 101 Rodrguez de la Cruz, Juan
Plaza de San Francisco Quintana Simonetti, Antonio Miguel 27
(Havana) 69, 74 116 Roig, Miguel Fernndez 90
Plaza San Juan de Dios Quirot, Ana Fidelia 19, 292 Rolls-Royce (car) 69
(Camagey) 1289, 131, 181, Romaach, Leopoldo 95
202 R Rome 83
Plaza Santa Ana (Trinidad) 190 Radio 305 Romeras de Mayo (Holgun)
Plaza Vieja (Havana) 60, 76 Radio Rebelde 48, 305 213
Plazuela de la Bedoya Rail travel 311 Roncalli (Spanish governor)
(Camagey) 202 Rainfall 36 146
Plazuela del Jige (Trinidad) Ramos, Domingo 141 Roncalli lighthouse 146
189 La Rampa (Havana) 98, 285 La Rosa, Hotel (Baracoa) 243
Pocock, George 41 Rowenskaya, Magdalena 243
Real Crcel 85
Poey, Felipe 101 Rubinstein, Arthur 83
Real Fbrica de Tabacos
Police 301 Rum 75, 274
Partags (Havana) 80, 84
Political Essay on the Island of Museo del Ron (Havana) 74
Cuba (von Humboldt) 185 Refugees, Cuban 53
Museo del Ron (Santiago de
Politics 1617 Regla 112
Cuba) 223
Polymita snails 21, 245 Regla de Ocha see Santera Rumba 30, 31, 125
Ponce, Fidelio 203 Reina (Cienfuegos) 170 Rumba del Callejn de Hamel
Population 12 Religion 223, 43 (Havana) 125, 127
ethnic mix 15 Remedios 11, 155, 177 Ryswyk, Treaty 40, 41
Porcallo de Figueroa, Vasco festivals 37
177, 190 hotels 260 S
Portillo de la Luz, Csar 30 Remuzzi, Gianni 82 Sabana-Camagey archipelago
Portocarrero, Ren 26, 27, 93, Repilado, Francisco see see Jardines del Rey
98, 102, 116, 228 Compay Segundo Sacha, Lpez 29
Postal services 305 Republic (Capitolio, Sagarra, Alcides 292
Practical information 298307 Havana) 83 Sagrada Familia (Murillo) 92
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 329

Saga-Baracoa 21 Santiago de Cuba (cont.) Sierra Maestra (cont.)

Sailing 294, 295 Carnival 209, 229 Cuban Revolution 48, 49, 51,
St Christopher (Andjar) 64 entertainment 28991 231
Sala de Conciertos Dolores exploring Parque Cspedes Gran Parque Nacional Sierra
(Santiago de Cuba) 288, 291 2267 Maestra 220
Sala Kid Chocolate (Havana) festivals 357 hotels 269
292 history 39, 49 Towards Santiago via Cabo
Sala Polivalente Ramn Fonst hotels 2689 Cruz 21819
(Havana) 292 map 2223 Sierra Maestra Airport
Salaya, Camilo 168, 174 restaurants 283 (Manzanillo) 308
Saldaa, Manuel 200 street-by-street map: Parque Sierra de los Organos 20,
Saln de Arte Cubano Cspedes 2245 1423
Contemporneo (Havana) Towards Santiago via Cabo Sierra del Purial 239
36 Cruz 21819 Sierra de los Quemados 138
Saln de Ensayo Benny Mor Santiago de Cuba Bay 232, Sierra del Rosario 10, 133,
(Havana) 125, 127 233 1367, 138
Saln de los Espejos (Havana) Santiago de Cuba province restaurants 279
70 220, 234 Sierrita de San Vicente 142
Saln de los Pasos Perdidos Santiago de las Vegas 27 La Silla (Lam) 26, 93, 95
(Havana) 83 festivals 37 Simoni Agramonte, Amalia
Salsa 30, 125, 250 Santo Domingo 44 200, 201
Salvatti glass works 168 Santuario de San Lazaro (El Slavery 15, 41, 44, 193, 197,
San Alejandro Fine Arts Rincn) 117 209
Academy (Havana) 26, 64 Sausse, Cornelius 136 coffee plantations 237
San Antonio de los Baos 29 Sauto, Ambrosio e la sugar plantations 423
festivals 34 Concepcin 158 Sleeping Beauty monument
San Cristbal Catedral Sauto, Teatro (Matanzas) 25, 171
(Havana) 24, 57, 63, 64 158, 288 Snails 21, 245
San Diego de los Baos 138 Sea travel 309, 31011 Social (periodical) 27
San Juan river 1367, 158 Segovia, Andrs 83, 158 Soft drinks 274
San Juan y Martnez 138 Seminario de San Carlos y San Sol Meli 248, 251
San Lzaro Sanctuary (El Ambosio (Havana) 62, 65, Sols, Humberto 29
Rincon) 117 69 Son 30, 125, 290
San Luis 138 Seor de la Vera Cruz, Sores, Jacques de 40, 68, 151
San Martn, Jos de 84 wooden statue (Trinidad) Soroa 136
Snchez Manduley, Celia 49, 184 Soroa Muagorri, Antonio and
51, 116, 197, 218 Service stations 312 Lorenzo 136
Snchez, Serafn 195 Servimed-Cubanacn Turismo Sorolla, Joaqun 94
Snchez, Toms 27, 95 y Salud 250, 251, 303 Sosabravo, Alfredo 27, 98
Snchez Iznaga family 184 Sevilla, Hotel (Havana) 86, 87, El Stano, Teatro (Havana)
Sancti Spritus, 11, 179, 1945 254 124, 127
history 39 Seville 68, 82 Soto, Hernando de 68
hotels 2656 Sharks Friends (Boca de Sotomayor, Javier 19, 292
map 195 Nuevitas) 293, 295 Southern Cross star 148
restaurants 282 Sharks Point 206 Soviet Union
Sancti Spritus province 174 Ships 31011 colapse of 53
Santa Clara 11, 155, 1746 Shops and markets 2847 Cold War 167
Cuban Revolution 48 handicrafts 285, 2867 Cuban relations with 52
festivals 34 how to pay 284 Spain
hotels 260 markets 285 conquest and colonization
map 175 opening hours 284 of Cuba 39, 110
restaurants 2801 Plaza de Armas market exchanges Florida for
Santa Isabel, Hotel (Havana) (Havana) 69 Havana 41
67, 248, 253 shops 284 War of Independence 445,
Santa Isabel de las Lajas 171 specialized shops 2845 77
Santa Mara del Mar 113 What to Buy in Cuba 2867 Spas 250
Santa Mara del Rosario 115 Siboney Indians 39, 150, 151, Specialist holidays 250, 251
Santamara, Abel 230, 231, 236 155, 160 outdoor activities 2935
Santamara, Haide 49, 100 Sicre, Jos 88 Speed limit 312
Santera 223, 59, 75, 77, 112, Siempre Che (Martnez) 38 Spengler, Eusebio Leal 61, 72
221 Sierra de Cubitas 201, 206 Spirits 274
Santiago Apolstolo 229 Sierra del Escambray 11, 20, Sport 19
Santiago de Cuba 11, 207, 173 outdoor activities 2935
22231 Cuban Revolution 48, 52, 189 spectator sports 292
airport 308 Topes de Collantes 191 Spring in Cuba 34
around Calle Heredia 228 Sierra de Jatibonico 197 Stamps 305
beyond the historic centre Sierra Maestra 11, 20, 210, 234, State Council 17
2301 239 Steam trains see Trains
330 G E N E R A L I N D E X

Steps of Padre Pico (Santiago Sugar 18, 40, 41, 193 Tiffany 88
de Cuba) 208, 223 Sugar, Slaves and Plantations Time zone 300
Stevenson, Robert Louis 148 423 Tinajones (jars) 201
Stevenson, Tefilo 292 Zafra campaign 523 Tiosa (bird) 20
Strawberry and Chocolate Summer in Cuba 35 Tipping
(film) 29, 98 Sun, protection from 303 in hotels 249
Streets and avenues Sunshine 35 in restaurants 271
Avenida de Blgica Surfing 293 Tivol quarter (Santiago de
(Havana) 72 Cuba) 223, 225
Avenida Carlos III (Havana) T Tobacco 138, 139
91 Tabo, Juan Carlos 29 cigars 323
Avenida de los Presidentes Tacn, Miguel de 91 Fbrica de Tobacos
(Calle G) (Havana) 99 Tano Indians 39, 151, 166, Francisco Donatin (Pinar
Avenida Primera (Havana) 212, 214, 215, 216, 244
del Ro) 141
109 Taller Experimental de Grfica
Real Fbrica de Tabacos
Avenida del Puerto (Havana) (Havana) 63
Partags (Havana) 84
65 Taller Internacional de Tteres
(Matanzas) 34 Tocororo (bird) 20
Avenida Quinta (Havana)
Tantete, Jos 171 Todo en Uno (Varadero) 290,
108
Taquechal pharmacy (Havana) 291
Avenida Tercera (Havana)
109 72 Toilets, public 302
Calle 12 (Havana) 99 Taxis, Havana 31415 Toms Terry, Teatro
Calle 13 (Havana) 118 Tejada Revilla, Jos Joaqun 228 (Cienfuegos) 168, 169, 288,
Calle 14 (Havana) 108 Tejeda, Juan de 85 291
Calle 16 (Havana) 109 Telephone services 3045 Topes de Collantes 191, 295
Calle 17 (Havana) 25, 99 Television 305 map 191
Calle 19 (Havana) 99 Temperatures 37 Torre, Marquis de la 86
Calle 23 (Havana) 98, 99 El Templete 67, 689 Tour operators 309
Calle 26 (Havana) 108 Ten Years War 44, 207, 212 Tourism 1718
Calle 28 (Havana) 109 Tennis 294 pre-Revolution 47
Calle 60 (Havana) 109 La Terraza (Cojmar) 113, 279 Tourist bureau 300
Calle Amistad (Havana) 90 Texeda, Juan de 110 Tourist information 300
Calle Belascoan (Havana) Thalassia testudinum (sea Trade embargo 52, 53
58, 59 weed) 150 Trains
Calle Dragones (Havana) 90 Theatres Hershey Train 160
Calle Enna (Havana) 67 Havana 1245 Parque Lenin 116
Calle G (Havana) 58, 99 rest of Cuba 288, 291 rail travel 311
Calle Heredia (Santiago de Comunidad Teatral del for sugar industry 42, 193
Cuba) 222, 228 Escambray 173, 280, 291 Tren Blindado Monument
Calle Inquisidor (Havana) 76 Gran Teatro de La Habana (Santa Clara) 175
Calle J (Havana) 98 (Havana) 80, 823, 89, 124, Travel information 30815
Calle Lnea (Havana) 99 125 air travel 30811
Calle Mercaderes (Havana) Teatro de la Caridad (Santa
coach travel 311
73 Clara) 174, 288, 291
getting around Cuba 31011
Calle Muralla (Havana) 76 Teatro Fausto (Havana) 87,
getting around Havana
Calle N (Havana) 98 124, 127
Teatro Milans (Pinar del 31415
Calle Obispo (Havana) 24, organized tours and package
66, 72 Ro) 141
Teatro Nacional de Cuba holidays 309
Calle Oficios (Havana) 66, rail travel 311
69, 72 (Havana) 102, 124
Teatro Principal (Camagey) sea travel 309, 31011
Calle Paseo (Havana) 99
201, 288, 291 travelling by car 31213
Calle Rayo (Havana) 90
Teatro Principal (Ciego de Travellers cheques 306
Calle San Lzaro (Havana)
vila) 196 Treaty of Paris 41
101
Calle San Nicols (Havana) Teatro Principal (Sancti Treaty of Ryswyk 40, 41
90 Spritus) 194 Trebejos y Zaldvar, Antonio
Calle San Rafael (Havana) 81 Teatro Sauto (Matanzas) 25, Fernndez de 70
Calle Virtudes (Havana) 86 158 Trees 21, 117, 1723
Calle Zanja (Havana) 90 Teatro Toms Terry Tren Blindado Monument
Callejn de Hammel (Cienfuegos) 168, 169, 288, (Santa Clara) 175
(Havana) 91 291 Triann, Teatro (Havana) 124,
Malecn (Baracoa) 243 Theft 301 127
Malecn (Havana) 589, 96, The Third World (Lam) 26 Trinidad 11, 130, 178, 179,
98, 100 Tickets 18290, 194
Paseo del Prado (Havana) for entertainment 288 architecture 24
25, 81, 867 for entertainment in Havana beyond the historic centre
La Rampa (Havana) 98, 285 124, 127 190
street names 118 for sporting events 292 history 39
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 331

Trinidad (cont.) Varela, Flix 28, 41, 65, 87, War of Independence 445, 77
hotels 266 101 Washington DC 82
houses 188 Vatican 53 Water lilies 173
restaurants 282 Vedado and Plaza (Havana) Waterfalls
street-by-street: Plaza Mayor 10, 96105 Salto del Caburn 180, 191
1823 area map 97 Saltn (Soroa) 136
Triolet, Ernesto 159 hotels 2545 Websites on Cuba 300
Tropic of Cancer 12 restaurants 2778 Welsh, Mary 114
Tropicana (Havana) 47, 109, a walk through Vedado 989 Wenders, Win 31
124, 125, 127 Vega, Pastor 29 West Indies 40
Tropicana (Matanzas) 289, 291 Velzquez de Cuellar, Diego Weyler, Valeriano 44
Tropicana (Santiago) 35, 229, Balcn de Velzquez White, Jos 158
289, 291 (Santiago de Cuba) 2223 Wildlife 201
Truffin, Regino 109 Baracoa 242 on coral reefs 147
Tuinuc river 194 Bayamo 216 El Nicho Nature Reserve
Casa de Diego Velzquez (Sierra de Escambray) 173
U (Santiago de Cuba) 225, 226 Guanahacabibes Reserve
UNEAC (National Cuban colonization of Cuba 39, 179 146
Writers and Artisits Union) Jardines del Rey 197 Parque Zoolgico Nacional
28, 126, 127, 222, 228, 290, Sancti Spritus 194 (Havana) 116
291 Trinidad 182 polymita snails 245
UNESCO 61, 133, 136, 146, Venezuela 39 Zapata Peninsula 164
182, 193, 200, 232, 237, 244 Verdi, Giuseppe 83 see also Birdwatching
United States Vermay, Jean Baptiste 26, 64, Windsurfing 293
Bay of Pigs 88, 167 69, 71 Winter in Cuba 3
Cuban Missile Crisis 52 Viamonte, Juan Bitrin de 70
dollars 306 Las Vctimas de la Caridad Y
economic domination of Monument (Havana) 105 Yacayo 159
Cuba 47 Vidal, Leoncio 174 Yaguanabo river 171
Guantnamo naval base 238, Viga Publishers (Matanzas) Yaima 166
239 159 Yez, Mirta 29
supervision of Cuba 45 Vilalta y Saavedra, Jos 81, Yara 44, 219
trade with Cuba 42, 44 104, 105 Yayabo bridge (Sancti Spritus)
trade embargo 17, 52, 53 Villa, Ignacio 30, 85, 109, 112 194
travelling to Cuba from Villa Clara 157 Yayabo river 194
3089 Villa Clara province 174 Yemay 23, 59, 112
US-passport holders 298, Villa Santo Domingo 220 Yoruba 22, 231
3089 Villaverde, Cirilo 28, 41, 87 Yumur river 158, 160, 245
University of Havana 100 Vilo Acua Airport (Cayo Yumur Valley 160
Urrutia, Manuel 49 Largo) 308
Uturri, Jos 162 Viales 141, 143, 295 Z
hotels 258 Zafra campaign 523
V restaurants 27980 Zaire 23
Vaccinations 302 Viales, Valle de see Valle de Zanelli, Angello 57
Valderrama, Esteban 89 Viales Zanja Real (Havana) 62
Valds, Cecilia 28, 87 Virgen de Altagracia 206 Zanjn, Treaty of 44
Valds, Chucho 30 Virgen del Cobre 36, 221 Zapata, Julio 105
Valds, Jernimo 77 Virgen de Regla 112 Zapata Peninsula 11, 21, 155,
Valdivia, Don Ignacio de 195 Virgin and Child (Memling) 92 1647, 295
Valle Blanco, Acisclo del 25, 170 Visas 298 area map 1645
Valle de los Ingenios 189, Vista Alegre district (Santiago hotels 25960
1923 de Cuba) 231 restaurants 280
Valle del Ro Mximo 206 Vitier, Cintio 29 wildlife 164
Valle de Viales 10, 130, 132, La Volanta restaurant Zapata Swamp 185
134, 1425, 295 (Camagey) 200 Zayas-Bazn, Carmen 77
area map 1423 Voodoo 231 Zenea, Juan Clemente 111,
Valle de Yaguanabo 171 Vuelta Abajo 138 217
Valle de Yumur (Matanzas) Vuelta Internacional por la Paz Zerquera, Antonio 184
160 196 Zoos, Parque Zoolgico
Van Mieris, Frans 94 Nacional (Havana) 116
Van Troi/Cabildo Teatral W La Zorra y el Cuervo Jazz Club
Santiago 288, 291 Walking (Havana) 125, 127
Varadero 11, 130, 154, 155, in Havana 314 Ziga, Ortiz de 184
161, 1623 a walk through Miramar Zurbarn, Francisco 94
airports 308 (Havana) 1089
hotels 2603 a walk through Vedado
map 1623 (Havana) 989
restaurants 2812 see also Hiking
332 A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S

Acknowledgments
Fabio Ratti Editoria would like to thank the underwater photography, scuba-diving on
following staff at Dorling Kindersley: wrecks, and marine biology.

Map Co-Ordinator Francesca Piana, a journalist and specialist on

Dave Pugh. Latin America, has written numerous travel
articles as well as guides to Greece, Mexico,
DTP Manager Ecuador and Chile for the Touring Club.
Jason Little.
Editorial and Design Assistance
Managing Editor Alejandro Alonso, Walfrido La O (Academia de
Anna Streiffert. la Historia de Cuba, Havana), Juan Romero
Marcos.
Managing Art Editor For Dorling Kindersley: Monica Allende, Claire
Jane Ewart. Baranowski, Julie Bond, Ernesto Juan
Castellanos, Conrad van Dyk, Juliet Kenny,
Director of Publishing, Travel Guides Kathryn Lane, Maite Lantaron, Carly Madden,
Gillian Allan. Naomi Peck, Helen Peters, Rada Radojicic,
Marisa Renzullo, Mary Scott, Helen Townsend.
Publisher
Douglas Amrine. Proof Reader
Stewart J. Wild.
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank all
those whose contribution and assistance have Special Thanks
made the preparation of this book possible. Archivo fotogrfico e histrico de La Habana;
Archivo ICAIC; Laura Arrighi (Lauda Air Italia);
Main Contributor Brbara Atorresagasti; Sandro Bajini; Freddy L
Irina Bajini, a scholar who specializes in Cmara; Casa de frica, Havana; Aleida
Hispanic-American languages and literature, Castellanos (Havanatur Italia); Pedro Contreras
lives in Milan and Havana. Among her (Centro de Desarrollo de las Artes Visuales,
publications are a conversation handbook, a Havana); Vittoria Cumini (Tocororo restaurant,
Cuban-Italian dictionary published by Vallardi, Milan); Juan Carlos and Jos Arturo de Dios
and a book on the santera religion: Il dio Lorente; Alfredo Daz (Tocororo restaurant,
delle onde, del fuoco, del vento (The God of Milan); Mariano Fernndez Arias (Gaviota);
the Waves, Fire and Wind), published by Cecilia Infante (Jos Mart publishers, Havana);
Sperling&Kupfer. She has also translated a Jardn Botnico del Parque Lenin; Lien La O
number of Cuban books. Bouzn; Manuel Martnez Gomez (Bohemia
archives); Adrian Adn Gonzalez (Tocororo
Other Contributors restaurant, Milan); Guillerma Lpez; Chiara
Alejandro Alonso, an expert in Cuban art, is a Maretti (Lauda Air Italia); Stefano Mariotti;
journalist and critic who has published essays Franois Missen; Annachiara Montefusco
and curated exhibitions in Cuba and abroad. (Cubanacn Italia); Jorge A Morente Padrn
The former deputy director of the Museo de (Archipilago); Orencio Nardo Garca (Museo
Bellas Artes, Alonso now heads the Museo de la Revolucin); Eduardo Nez (Publicitur);
Nacional de la Cermica (National Ceramics Mariacarla Nebuloni; Oficina del Historiador
Museum) in Havana, which he founded in 1990. de la Ciudad, Havana; Sullen Oliv
Monteagudo (Arcoiris); Angelo Parravicini
Miguel Angel Castro Machado, the second (Lauda Air Italia); Milagros Prez (Havanatur
historiador de la ciudad of Baracoa, teaches Italia); Alicia Prez Casanova (Horizontes);
Hispanic-American literature at the University Josefina Pichardo (Centro de Informacin y
of Santiago de Cuba. Documentacin Tursticas); Richard Pierce;
Poder Popular de Isla de la Juventud; Carla
Andrea G Molinari is executive director of Provvedini (Ufficio Turistico di Cuba, Milan);
Lauda Air Italia airline and a passionate Quinta de los Molinos, Havana; Gianluca
smoker of, and expert on, Cuban cigars. Ragni (Gran Caribe); Celia Estela Rojas (Museo
He is the author of Sigaro. La guida per de las Parrandas de Remedios); Federica
lapprendista fumatore di sigari cubani Romagnoli; Aniet Venereo (Archipilago);
(Cigars. A Guide for Newcomers to Cuban Yoraida Santiesteban Vaillant; Lucia Zaccagni.
Cigar Smoking), published by IdeaLibri.
The Publisher would like to thank Andrea G
Marco Oliva is a diving instructor and an Molinari in particular for the enthusiasm and
expert on diving in the Caribbean. He holds willingness with which he supported the
various specialist licences, including those for preparation of this guide.
 A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S 333

Picture Sources CAPITAL CULTURE: James Sparshatt 125br.

Geocuba, Havana; Habanos SA.
CASA DE FRICA, HAVANA: 9 (insert), 40bl, 423c,
Reproduction Rights 42cl, 42bl, 73b.
The Publisher would like to thank all the
museums, hotels, restaurants, shops and other CENTRO D OCUMENTAZIONE MONDADORI , M ILAN: 46tr,
sights of interest for their kind assistance and 47bl, 49tr, 49tl, 52b, 87br, 114cl, 114cr, 114b,
authorization to photograph their premises. 117bl, 167b.

Specially Commissioned Photos CENTRO HISTRICO DE LA CIUDAD DE LA HABANA,

Drinks: Paolo Pulga, courtesy of the Tocororo HAVANA: 28c, 28br, 29tr, 40, 41, 43t, 44, 45, 46bl,
restaurant, Corsico (Milan). 47b, 48tr, 48b, 49bl, 50cl, 59b, 151cl, 219t.

Additional Photography GIANFRANCO CISINI, MILAN: 57bl, 80tr, 111br, 165b,

Julie Bond, Ernesto Juan Castellanos, Maite 173tl, 174c, 175t, 176t, 188c, 221clb, 231c.
Lantaron, Ian OLeary, Daniel Stoddart.
CORBIS: Jose Fuste Raga 10cl, 11tl; Reuters/Claudia
Picture Credits Daut 126bl; Reuters/Susana Vera 124tc.
key: t = top; tl = top left; tlc = top left centre;
tc = top centre; trc = top right centre; tr = top 4CORNERS IMAGES: SIME/Schmid Reinhard 11br.
right; tra = top right above; cla = centre left
above; ca = centre above; cra = centre right RAL CORRALES, HAVANA: 5051c.
above; cl = centre left; c = centre; cr = centre Cubanacn, Milan: A Cozzi 303b.
right; cla = centre left above; crb = centre right
below; cb = centre below; bl = bottom left; MARTINO FAGIUOLI, MODENA: 24cra, 24clb, 51tl, 86cr,
br = bottom right; b = bottom; bc = bottom 182tr, 220b, 224c, 225tl, 225tr, 225c, 226tl, 227b,
centre; bcl = bottom centre left; bcr = bottom 226br, 228tl, 229 cla, 229c, 229br, 233tl, 233b,
centre right; (d) = detail. 234c, 235c, 236t, 236b, 242c, 242b, 243t, 243b.

Every effort has been made to trace the copyright FARABOLAFOTO, MILAN: 49cr, 50tr, 51tr, 52tr, 53bl,
holders. The publisher apologizes for any 57tl, 66cl.
unintentional omissions and would be pleased, in
such cases, to add an acknowledgment in future GETTY IMAGES: National Geographic/Steve Winter
editions. The publisher would like to thank all the 11clb; Photogaphers Choice/Louis Quail 272cl.
individuals, local bodies and associations and
photographic agencies for permission to
PAOLO GONZATO, MILAN: 14tl, 18c, 20crb (aura
reproduce their photographs.
tiosa), 20crb (ox), 29c, 30tr, 31tr (claves), 31tr
(giro), 53cb, 75br (all the photos), 130br, 155,
Works of art have been reproduced with the
160t, 163t, 172t, 172b, 173cb, 173bl, 173br, 178,
permission of the following copyright holders:
180b, 182tl, 182clb, 184tl, 184tr, 184c, 188cra,
Augustn Crdenas Figure 1953 DACS, London
188clb, 188crb, 188b, 189t, 192b, 194c, 201b,
2006 95c; Wilfredo Lam Third World 1966
212tl, 213t, 220t, 231t, 234t, 236c, 248b, 272tl,
ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2006 26c.
274cr, 275clb, 284t, 286tl, 286tr, 286clb, 287tl,
ALAMY IMAGES: John Birdsall 273tl; Rolf Brenner 287b (all the photos), 289t, 300t, 302c, 312t, 312b.
288cl; Adam Eastland 125clb; isifa Image Service
s.r.o. /PHB 212tr; Mike Kipling Photography GRAZIA GUERRESCHI, MILAN: 23ad, 23bd, 37as.
124br; Sergio Pitamitz 125tr; Robert Harding
Picture Library Ltd/Bruno Morandi 290tl; Tribaleye HOTEL HABANA LIBRE, HAVANA: Sven Creutzmann
Images/Jamie Marshall 290br. 248t.

ALEJANDRO ALONSO, HAVANA: 93cl, 95c. ICAIC, HAVANA: 27bl, 29bl, 29br, 37b.

ARCHIVIO MONDADORI, MILAN: Andrea and Antonella IMAGE BANK, MILAN: 21 clb (flamingo), L Abreu 5t,
Ferrari 153t. 215b, C Ansaloni 156b, 165ca, 166tr, 166b, G
Bandieri, 58cra, A Cavalli 16c, 18t, 21tra, 23bd,
ARCHIVIO RADAMS GIRO, HAVANA: 30br, 30bl. 23bl, 53br, 545, 58cla, 59tr, 59cr, 67tl, 81c, 81br,
88t, 102tl, 113br, 116t, 134c, 152c, 153c, 154, 157t,
PIERFRANCO ARGENTIERO, SOMMA LOMBARDO: 32bl (all 170b, 176c, 177tr, 182cl, 185t, 192t, 193t, 198tl,
the photos), 33br, 33b, 286cla, 286clb. 216tl, 234b, 238c, 239t, 249c, 287cl, 298c; M
Everton 294b; GW Faint 126t; L King 303t;
MARCO BIAGIOTTI, PERUGIA: 19bl, 27cl, 87t, 91c, A Mihich 294t; A Pistolesi 21cra, 14445, 148b,
110c, 132, 139c, 139clb. 150c, 211b, 235b, 244b, 245t; GA Rossi 4b, 14,
334 A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S

20tr, 20cra, 33tr, 57tr, 58br, 61t, 65b, 66b, 72tr, (woodpecker), 20clb (cartacuba), 20bl, 21tl,
72cr, 75cb, 85ca, 85b, 87bl, 96, 105b, 110t, 111b, 21trb, 21clb (gaviln), 21crb (zunzuncito), 21crb
115tr, 115b, 130cr, 131tl, 133, 152t, 152b, 156t, (lizard), 21bl, 21 br, 22ca, 22cb, 23tl, 25br, 33cra,
162t, 163b, 168c, 179, 198c, 232t, 233c, 249b, 34t, 35tr, 59cl, 69b, 72tl, 72b, 87crb, 98cl, 109b,
270t, 270c, 293ca, 309b; E Vergani 113t, 165c. 114t, 131tr, 131b, 136tr, 136c, 139tl, 142t, 142c,
143t, 146c, 146b, 153b, 164tl, 164tr, 164bl (all
LONELY PLANET IMAGES: Doug McKinlay 273cb. photos), 165tl, 166tl, 167t, 167c, 180t, 192c, 193b
(all photos), 197t, 197c, 197b, 198tr, 198b, 199c,
STEFANO MARIOTTI, MILAN: 32br. 199b, 209, 210b, 218b, 220c, 221t, 222tr, 224tr,
229t, 229cra, 230b, 237c, 237b, 239b, 24041,
MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES, HAVANA: 26, 27tr, 242tl, 242tr, 244t, 244c, 245c, 245b, 248c, 249t,
27cr, 38, 92, 93, 94, 95. 250t, 271t, 295, 301b, 305t, 315b.

PAOLO NEGRI, MILAN: 80cla, 80b, 148tl, 148c, 150b, ALBERTO SALAZAR, HAVANA: 31c.
274t, 275b, 275br.
SOUTH AMERICAN PICTURES: Rolando Pujol 124cl.
MARCO OLIVA, MILAN: 75cla, 89c, 134b, 136b,
137tr, 137c, 137b, 138t, 138bl, 146t, 147 (all the STUDIO FALLETTI, MILAN: 33tr, 33cla, 33cr, 33clb,
photos), 150t, 173tr 191t, 207b, 232c, 250c, 250b, 138cr, 139tr, 139crb.
293b.
WIKIPEDIA, THE FREE ENCYCLOPEDIA: NASA 36bl.
OLYMPIA, MILAN: 19cr, 53t, 64b, 292t, 292b.
JACKET
PRENSA LATINA, HAVANA: 28tr, 30bc, 31tl, 31bl, 31bc, Front - ALAMY IMAGES: Martin Norris main image;
36c, 47tr, 50bl, 51br, 51bl, 52c, 124b, 171b, 202c, DK IMAGES: Lucio Rossi clb. Back - CORBIS: Jose
238b. Fuste Raga bl; DK IMAGES: Heidi Grassley cla, clb.
Getty Images: Stone tl. Spine - ALAMY IMAGES:
LAURA RECORDATI, MILAN: 118t, 118b, 271c. Martin Norris t; DK IMAGES: Lucio Rossi b.

REUTERS: Oswaldo Rivas 288br. All other images Dorling Kindersley.

For further information see:
LUCIO ROSSI, MILAN: 3, 18b, 20tl, 20cla, 20clb www.dkimages.com

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 P H R A S E B O O K 335

Phrase Book
The Spanish spoken in Cuba is basically the Vosotros, to say you when referring to more
same as the Castilian used in Spain with than one person. It is notable that some
certain deviations. As in the Spanish-speaking Indian, African and English words are
countries in Central and Southern America, the commonly used in present-day Cuban
z is pronounced like the s, as is the c Spanish. This basic phrase book includes
when it comes before e or i. Among the useful common phrases and words, and
grammatical variations, visitors should be particular attention has been paid to typically
aware that Cubans use Ustedes in place of Cuban idioms in a list of Cuban Terms.

Cuban Terms How are you? qu tal? keh tal

Its a pleasure! mucho gusto! moocho goosto
apagn apagon black-out, power cut Goodbye,
babalawo babala-wo a priest of Afro- so long hasta luego asta lwego
Cuban religion
boho bo-ee-o traditional rural house Useful Phrases
with palm leaf roof
carro karro car Thats fine est bien/oc esta b-yen/oka
casa de la trova kasa deh la troba club where traditional Fine qu bien! keh b-yen
music is played How long? Cunto falta? kwanto falta
batey batay village around sugar Do you speak a Habla un abla oon poko deh
factory little English? poco de ingls? eengles
cayo ka-yo small island I dont understand No entiendo no ent-yendo
chama chama child Could you speak Puede hablar pwedeh ablas mas
criollo kr-yo-yo Creole (born in Cuba more slowly? ms despacio? despas-yo
of Spanish descent) I agree/OK de acuerdo/oc deh akwairdo/oka
divisas deebeesas dollars (slang) Certainly! Claro que s! klaro keh see!
guagua gwagwa bus Lets go! Vmonos! bamonos
guajiro gwaheero farmer
guarapo gwarapo sugar cane juice
Useful Words
ingenio eenhen-yo sugar factory complex Large grande grandeh
jama hama food, meal Small pequeo peken-yo
eva eba woman Hot caliente kal-yenteh
jinetera heenetaira prostitute, or female Cold fro free-o
hustler Good bueno bweno
jinetero heenetairo male person hustling Bad malo malo
tourists So-so ms o menos mas o menos
libreta leebreta rations book Well/fine bien b-yen
moneda moneda nas-yonal pesos (national Open abierto ab-yairto
nacional currency) Closed cerrado serrado
moros y moros ee krist-yanos rice & black beans Full lleno yeno
cristianos (Moors & Christians) Empty vaco basee-o
paladar paladar privately-owned Right derecha dairecha
restaurant Left izquierda isk-yairda
puro pooro authentic Cuban cigar Straight recto rrekto
santero santairo santera priest Under debajo debaho
tabaco tabako low-quality cigar Over arriba arreeba
tambor tambor Afro-Cuban religious Quickly/early pronto/temprano pronto/temprano
musical feast Late tarde tardeh
tienda t-yenda shop that only Now ahora a-ora
accepts dollars Soon ahorita a-oreeta
trago trago alcoholic drink More ms mas
tunas toonas prickly pears Less menos menos
zafra safra sugar cane harvest Little poco poko
Sufficient suficiente soofees-yenteh
Emergencies Much mucho/muy moocho/mwee
Too much demasiado demas-yado
Help! socorro! sokorro
In front of delante delanteh
Stop! pare! pareh
Behind detrs detras
Call a doctor Llamen un mdico yamen oon medeeko
First floor primer piso preemair peeso
Call an ambulanceLlamen a una yamen a oona
Ground floor planta baja planta baha
ambulancia amboolans-ya
Lift/elevator elevador elebador
Police! polica! poleesee-a
Bathroom/toilet servicios sairbees-yos
Ive been robbed Me robaron meh rrobaron
Women mujeres moohaires
Men hombres ombres
Communication Essentials Toilet paper papel sanitario papel saneetar-yo
Yes s see Camera cmara kamara
No no no Batteries bateras batairee-as
Please por favor por fabor Passport pasaporte pasaporteh
Pardon me perdone pairdoneh Visa; tourist card visa; tarjeta turistica beesa; tarheta
Excuse me disculpe deeskoolpeh tooreesteeka
Im sorry lo siento lo s-yento Health
Thanks gracias gras-yas
I dont feel well Me siento mal meh s-yento mal
Hello! buenas! bwenas
I have a Me duele meh dweleh
Good day buenos das bwenos dee-as
stomach ache el estmago el estomago
Good afternoon buenas tardes bwenas tardes
headache la cabeza la kabesa
Good evening buenas noches bwenas noches
He/she is ill Est enfermo/a esta enfairmo
Night noche nocheh
I need to rest Necesito decansar neseseeto dekansar
Morning maana man-yana
Drug store farmacia farmasee-ya
Tomorrow maana man-yana
Yesterday ayer a-yair
Here ac aka
Post Office and Bank
How? cmo? komo Bank banco banko
When? cundo? kwando I want to send Quiero enviar k-yairo emb-yar oona
Where? dnde? dondeh a letter una carta karta
Why? por qu? por keh Postcard postal tarjeta postal tarheta
336 P H R A S E B O O K

Stamp sello se-yo caf kafeh coffee

Draw out money sacar dinero sakar deenairo camarones kamarones prawns
carne karneh meat
Shopping congr kongree rice with
beans & onions
How much is it? Cunto cuesta? kwanto kwesta cerveza sairbesa beer
What time do you A qu hora abre/ a ke ora abreh/ dulce doolseh sweet, dessert
open/close? cierra? s-yairra ensalada ensalada salad
May I pay with a Puedo pagar con pwedo pagar kon fruta froota fruit
credit card? tarjeta de crdito? tarheta deh kredeeto? fruta bomba froota bomba papaya
helado elado ice cream
Sightseeing huevo webo egg
Beach playa pla-ya jugo hoogo fruit juice
Castle, fortress castillo kastee-yo langosta langosta lobster
Cathedral catedral katedral leche lecheh milk
Church iglesia eegles-ya marisco mareesko seafood
District barrio barr-yo mantequilla mantekee-ya butter
Garden jardn hardeen pan pan bread
Guide gua gee-a papas papas potatoes
House casa kasa postre postreh dessert
Motorway autopista owtopeesta pescado peskado fish
Museum museo mooseh-o pltano platano banana
Park parque parkeh pollo po-yo chicken
Road carretera karretaira potaje/sopa potaheh/sopa soup
Square, plaza plaza, parque plasa, parkeh puerco pwairko pork
Street calle, callejn ka-ye, ka-yehon queso keso cheese
Town hall Ayuntamiento a-yoontam-yento refresco refresko drink
Tourist bureau bur de turismo booro deh tooreesmo sal sal salt
salsa salsa sauce
t teh tea
Transport vinagre beenagreh vinegar
Could you call Me puede llamar meh pwedeh yamar
a taxi for me? un taxi? oon taksee? Time
Airport aeropuerto a-airopwairto Minute minuto meenooto
Train station estacin de estas-yon deh Hour hora ora
ferrocarriles fairrokarreeles Half-hour media hora med-ya ora
Bus station terminal de tairmeenal deh Monday lunes loones
autobs owtoboos Tuesday martes martes
When does A qu hora sale? a keh ora saleh? Wednesday mircoles m-yairkoles
it leave? Thursday jueves hwebes
Customs aduana adwana Friday viernes b-yairnes
Boarding pass tarjeta de embarque tarheta deh embarkeh Saturday sbado sabado
Car hire alquiler de carros alkeelair deh karros Sunday domingo domeengo
Bicycle bicicleta beeseekleta January enero enairo
Insurance seguro segooro February febrero febrairo
Petrol/gas station estacin de gasolina estas-yon deh March marzo marso
gasoleena April abril abreel
Staying in a Hotel May mayo ma-yo
Single room/ habitacin sencilla/ abeetas-yon sensee-ya June junio hoon-yo
double doble /dobleh July julio hool-yo
Shower ducha doocha August agosto agosto
Bathtub baera ban-yaira September setiembre set-yembreh
Balcony balcn, terraza balkon, tairrasa October octubre oktoobreh
I want to be Necesito que me neseseeto keh meh November noviembre nob-yembreh
woken at despierten a las desp-yairten a las December diciembre dees-yembreh
Warm water/ agua caliente/ agwa kal-yenteh/
cold fra free-a
Numbers
Soap jabn habon 0 cero sairo
Towel toalla to-a-ya 1 uno oono
Key llave yabeh 2 dos dos
3 tres tres
Eating Out 4 cuatro kuatro
What is there Qu hay keh I para komair? 5 cinco seenko
to eat? para comer? 6 seis says
The bill, please la cuenta, por favor la kwenta por fabor 7 siete s-yeteh
Glass vaso baso 8 ocho ocho
Cutlery cubiertos koob-yairtos 9 nueve nwebeh
I would like Quisiera un poco kees-yaira oon poko 10 diez d-yes
some water de agua deh agwa 11 once onseh
Have you got wine? Tienen vino? t-yenen beeno? 12 doce doseh
The beer is not La cerveza no la sairbesa no esta 13 trece treseh
cold enough est bien fra b-yen free-a 14 catorce katorseh
Breakfast desayuno desa-yoono 15 quince keenseh
Lunch almuerzo almwairso 16 diecisis d-yeseesays
Dinner comida komeeda 17 diecisiete d-yesees-yeteh
Raw/cooked crudo/cocido kroodo/koseedo 18 dieciocho d-yes-yocho
19 diecinueve d-yeseenwebeh
20 veinte baynteh
Menu Decoder 30 treinta traynta
aceite asayteh oil 40 cuarenta kwarenta
agua mineral agwa meenairal mineral water 50 cincuenta seenkwenta
aguacate agwakateh avocado 60 sesenta sesenta
ajo aho garlic 70 setenta setenta
arroz arros rice 80 ochenta ochenta
asado asado roasted 90 noventa nobenta
atn atoon tuna 100 cien s-yen
azcar asookar sugar 500 quinientos keen-yentos
bacalao bakala-o cod 1000 mil meel