Mighty tools for

your MitrePlan
✓ Mighty helpful checklist Mighty helpful Lay your own concrete MitrePlan PROJECT PLANNER
ORDER hints to make
the job easier
Lay your own concrete
‘Sharp’ sand
Stone aggregate ■ If hand mixing, mix on a
Dry cement OR large sheet of plywood or
hardboard, or use a heavy
Ready-Mix concrete for small jobs layer of polythene sheeting –
Steel reinforcing never mix on dirt.
F52 for 100mm thick concrete ■ Avoid using too much water
in the mix – this will weaken
(driveways etc) the concrete and cause
F42 for 75mm thick concrete (paths, etc) shrinkage as it hardens.
Bar chairs ■ As a guide to a workable
mix, draw the shovel tip over
50mm for 100mm thick concrete
the mix and leave a series of
40mm for 75mm thick concrete clear-cut ridges. If the mix is
too dry, the ridges will crumble
Formwork timber – straight boards
– if too wet, they will spread
at least 25mm thick and as wide out and level.
as the concrete’s depth ■ If you want curves in the
formwork, use hardboard cut IMPORTANT: This project planner has been produced to provide
Stakes – 50 x 25mm square and long basic information and our experienced staff are available to answer any
into strips as wide as the
enough to cover depth of concrete plus concrete is deep and support questions you may have. However, this information is provided for use
with frequent pegs around on the understanding that Mitre 10 is not liable for any loss or damage
about 300mm for driving into the ground which is suffered or incurred (including but not limited to indirect or
the curve.
Nails – 50 x 2.8mm bullet head consequential loss), for any personal injury or damage to property suffered
■ If you want to take a break or sustained as a result of using the information contained in this MitrePlan
Shovel Sheet of plywood or hardboard and you’re using a power Project Planner. Mitre 10 advises you to call in a qualified tradesperson,
Measuring tape Sacking or polythene sheeting mixer, add the aggregate and such as an electrician or plumber, where expert services are required,
water you’ll need for the next and to independently assess any safety precautions that will need to be
Circular or hand saw Verbal quotes are indicative only. Written quotes on materials batch and leave the mixer followed prior to using the information in
are available upon request from your Mitre 10 store. running while you’re away. this MitrePlan Project Planner.
Claw hammer This will keep the drum clean.
WARNING: There may be by laws or
Sledge hammer Builder’s Square regulations of councils or other statutory
■ When the surface is level,
Essential for checking that corners bodies that you must comply with when
Stringline tap the outside edge of the
are 90°. Make from 75 x 25mm formwork with a hammer to following this MitrePlan Project Planner.
Long spirit level timber with the shortest side settle the concrete – fill in
marked at 600mm, the second any resulting hollows and
Bolt cutters side at 800mm and the diagonal level again. • An easy-to-follow guide to achieving a perfect result.
Heavy duty wheelbarrow at 1000mm. Nail together with a ■ Remember, check with Your local MITRE 10 Store is: • Outlines all the tools you will need for the job.
Sturdy bucket half- joint at the right angle corner your local council or shire
and the diagonal nailed on top. about any regulations for • Includes a materials checklist.
Wooden and/or steel permits needed before you
Tamping Board

#31
Float begin.
For compacting and levelling a PLEASE NOTE:
Grooving trowel concrete slab. Use a perfectly Before starting this project or buying any materials, it is worth your time to
straight 175 x 25mm board about read all steps thoroughly first to be sure you understand what is required.
Edger 300mm longer than the slab width.
Hired power mixer Use a 150 x 50mm board for very Mitre 10 is proudly Australian owned. mitre10.com.au
broad slabs. Bolt on handles at each
(optional) end as shown, so you can work
standing up.
Visit mitre10.com.au for more
Lay your own
Step 2: Buying your materials be flushed with the finished level of your concrete.
Fig. 4 After a minute or so, add some water and let it mix in for 2 – 3
concrete and get a Concrete is made by mixing cement, sand, stone, aggregate If required, check that the formwork is slightly lower on one side so minutes. After checking, add just enough water to make a
workable mix. Once this is obtained, mix for another minute. Be
rainwater can run off. If near a home, slope away from the house.
great result – with and water. For small jobs, it’s best to buy pre-mixed concrete in
40kg bags. Then all you do is add water. For larger projects, it’s Then nail the boards to the pegs making sure there are no gaps sure to clean the drum with water after each mix.

a little help from cheaper to buy the materials separately and mix them yourself.
Cement is normally sold in 40kg bags. Sand and aggregate are
between two boards or between the boards and ground where
concrete can seep through.
When you’re finished for the day or the job, leave the mixer
running and add some water and aggregate to clean out the drum.
Mitre 10. both sold by the cubic metre or fractions of a metre in 1/4 cubic
metre multiples.
Finally, to help prevent your concrete cracking from earth movement,
tree roots and usage, add steel reinforcing. This is essential to
Ready-mixed: For large projects of 1 1/2 cubic metres or more.
All you have to do is tell the concrete supply company the size
Concrete is one of the most versatile
There are various concrete mixes depending on your project. increase strength. With bolt cutters, cut your reinforcing mesh 50mm of the area you are concreting and they’ll calculate the amount
building materials. It lends itself
Here are some of the most common mixes: less than the distance between the formwork to protect it from needed and the cost. Some even have smaller trucks that can
well to a wide variety of shapes and rusting. Also ensure there is a 50mm gap between the edge of mesh drive right into your garden.
forms. You can use it to create a A) Suitable where a minimum thickness of 100mm is needed, Fig. 2 and expansion joint. Then place it inside the formwork supported off But remember, be prepared to lay it fast if the concrete can’t be
family entertainment centre, build such as driveways, garage and workshop floors.
the ground on bar chairs suitable for the thickness of the concrete
Fig. 5
tipped directly into your formwork. Have plenty of helpers with
a patio, garden path or driveway, or B) For light duty strips and bases up to 75mm thick, such as (refer to “Your Materials Checklist”). heavy duty wheelbarrows (you can hire these too) standing by.
provide a hard and durable floor that garden paths. Fig. 3
will last a lifetime in your garage, C) Where great strength is not needed, such as garden wall Step 5: Mixing the concrete Step 6: Laying and Levelling
workshop or garden shed. There’s foundations, bedding in slabs. At this stage, you should also consider adding a colouring agent to
no need to hide behind the excuse Pour the mixed concrete into the formwork spreading evenly with
To calculate the volume of cement and aggregates needed, your mix. Liquid and powder forms are available in a range of earthy a rake or shovel (Fig. 4).
that you’ve never concreted anything multiply the area’s length by its width by the required colours to highlight the overall design of your path or driveway.
before either – concrete is also one Make sure the corners and edges are well filled with no air gaps,
thickness of concrete. This will give you the number of cubic Hand mixing: The cheapest method when the quantity of concrete
of the easiest building materials and that the reinforcing is fully covered – any exposed steel could
metres you are concreting. For each cubic metre of driveway required is not too large. Mix on a smooth, clean surface such as an
to work with. rust and deteriorate, weakening your slab over time.
concrete you will need 8 x 40kg bags of cement, 1/2 cubic old sheet of board – never on dirt.
metre of concrete sand and 3 /4 cubic metres of 20mm The concrete should be slightly higher than the sides of the
The techniques for laying anything Using a bucket, measure out the correct amounts of each material formwork. Concrete slabs shouldn’t be more than 3 metres in any
from a shed floor to a garden path aggregate (screenings).
into a pile. You can double up quantities if you like, but mix only direction without a joint to control cracking. The simplest way is
are much the same, once you know Mix Cement Sharp Sand Aggregate what can be used immediately. With a shovel, turn the pile over to include a 5mm thick piece of softwood or bituminous stripping
the basic rules for mixing up the T o make I cu m* 40kg bags several times until it is a uniform colour with no patches of cement (plastic and rubber are also available) the same depth as the
ingredients, making formwork, laying 1/ 2 cu m / 3 /4 tonne 3 /4 cu m / 11/4 tonne or sand.
A 8 bags Fig. 1 concrete as you’re laying it (Fig. 5). It acts as an expansion joint
and levelling. And in this MitrePlan, B 6 bags 1/ 2 cu m / 3 /4 tonne 3 /4 cu m / 11/4 tonne Make a well in the middle of the pile and add a little water. Push in and remains embedded in the concrete. To level the surface, lay
we provide you with the know- how. C 5 bags 1/ 2 cu m / 3 /4 tonne 3 /4 cu m / 11/4 tonne the mix around the edges into the water until the water has been the tamping board across the concrete at one end and resting on
Just follow the step-by-step * (10m x 1m x 100mm) absorbed (Fig. 3). Then turn the mix over until it is evenly moist, the formwork.
instructions and you’ll find working form a new well in the middle and add more Move the board to and fro in a sawing action to level the concrete,
Use this guide to estimate your quantities.
with concrete relatively simple. All water. Continue doing this until you have a filling in with more or scraping off excess as necessary (Fig. 6).
you need are the right tools and the workable mix.
Step 3: Preparation Then use a firm tapping action, moving the tamper forward by half
right materials from your Mitre 10 Power mixer: These can be hired for Fig. 6 its width each time to compact it.
specialist – and you’re on your way. First, measure and mark out the area to be concreted. Stretch
any reasonable sized job and will save
stringline between pegs driven into the ground, then remove the
top soil until you’ve accurately marked out the shape of the area.
you a great deal of time and effort. Step 7: Finishing touches
Step 1: Plan ahead First, with the mixer running, add Fig. 7 After tamping, the surface is usually suitable for most driveways or
Use a builder’s square to set the corners accurately. Then dig the aggregate into the drum. Then
Unlike most building materials paths with a slightly ridged non-slip finish. Or, draw a stiff-bristled
down to the depth you want the concrete. The prepared area add the sand and cement and let
concrete is hard to fix if you make a broom gently across the concrete to create a non-slip pattern of
should extend about 150mm behind the edge of the finished slab these mix thoroughly.
mistake. So plan your job carefully. straight lines (Fig. 7).
so there is space for preparing the formwork (Fig 1.).
Make a sketch of it if necessary. One of the simplest ways to finish is to run the back of your
Be sure the ground is firm, level and free from vegetation. If it
What you are concreting is also shovel over the wet concrete, producing a fine swirling pattern. If
is soft and loose, add a layer of stones or broken bricks and
an important consideration. For a smoother finish is preferred, use a wooden float. Press the float
tightly compact into the surface with a sledge hammer. If laying
example, you may want to use down firmly and ‘scrub’ with a circular action. Then allow the water
immediately over an old concrete base, completely break up the
ready-mixed concrete it you are in the concrete to rise to the surface.
old first and compact it or your new concrete will crack.
laying a large driveway or garage Don’t scoop or brush this water off. Let it disappear and then
floor. This is delivered in bulk by Step 4: Fixing the formwork finish off with the wooden float. For a smoother, polished finish,
large trucks, so you must have use a steel float at a slight angle towards you with a sweeping
This is a kind of box that keeps the concrete in place while it
formwork in place and a couple of semi-circular action. Next, slightly round the edges with an edging
hardens and provides an edge for levelling the poured concrete.
helpers ready to off-load it. It is tool to prevent chipping and give your job a more professional
Hammer in pegs at 1m intervals around the outside of the
also sensible to check with your look (Fig. 8). Finally, allow the concrete to cure. Cover it with
entire area.
damp sacking and regularly keep it moist, or use plastic sheeting.
local authority e.g council about any Place the formwork boards against the pegs using your stringline Keep it covered seven days – more in cold weather. Now all that’s
regulations or restrictions before to accurately align them. Use a spirit level to ensure the tops will Fig. 8 left is to remove the formwork – and admire a job well done.
starting. Particularly in relation to
existing drains or pipe runs.