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BEISAN m62 Engine - Vanos Fix

This DIY guide provides step-by-step instructions for replacing the timing chain guides on a BMW 740 with an M62TU engine. The guide begins with a parts list and then details each step of the process from removing front-end components to installing the new guides and reassembling. Helpful tips are included such as using a flywheel lock pin, tying the chain together, and ensuring gasket surfaces are clean. The guide aims to help others complete the job but notes that it is not a professional service and no guarantees are made. Accompanying photos illustrate each step of the process.

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225 views34 pages

BEISAN m62 Engine - Vanos Fix

This DIY guide provides step-by-step instructions for replacing the timing chain guides on a BMW 740 with an M62TU engine. The guide begins with a parts list and then details each step of the process from removing front-end components to installing the new guides and reassembling. Helpful tips are included such as using a flywheel lock pin, tying the chain together, and ensuring gasket surfaces are clean. The guide aims to help others complete the job but notes that it is not a professional service and no guarantees are made. Accompanying photos illustrate each step of the process.

Uploaded by

googlehead
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?

1619653-DIY-Timing-Chain-Guides-
01-740-M62TU

1. DIY Timing Chain Guides-01 740 M62TU

So I had another thread a while back that had alot of pics but it wasnt a diy. At the suggestion of Edwin I thought I would compile it all and
share it.

First of all, I'm not a professional. I just love DIY. So the info here is is just meant to help. I make no guaranties and take no responsibility for
the info posted here.

So here is my parts list.


32-41-1-093-596 Seal ring x3 (ps lines)
32-41-1-093-598 Gasket (ps lines)
11-53-1-710-048 Water pump o-ring x2 (lg pipe)
11-53-1-711-381 Hose (hose to exp tnk)
11-53-1-711-384 Water hose (hrd pipe to trns cooler)
11-53-7-501-777 o-ring (o-ring for above pipe)
07-12-9-952-113 Clamp (for hose to exp tnk)
11-51-1-731-372 Gasket Asbestos free (water pump)
12-61-1-744-292 Gasket ring (oil lvl sensor)
07-11-9-963-300 Gasket ring (o-ring 4 drain on alt)
11-61-7-501-563 Rear cover (osv)
11-61-1-440-135 Jet pump (broke mine)
07-11-9-901-511 O-ring x2 (air pipe in front of covers)
11-72-7-505-259 Secondary air pump gasket
12-31-7-507-996 Alt. gasket
13-54-7-510-433 Gasket (throttle gasket, o-ring)
13-64-1-437-474 O-ring x16 (injector o-rings)
11-14-1-742-042 Valley pan (buy the plastic cover too)
11-15-1-705-301 Vent pipe
11-14-1-275-466 Front crank seal
11-15-1-705-272 Oil separator (under timing cover)
11-31-1-745-406 Guide rail (lt side)
11-31-1-741-236 Tensioner
11-31-1-741-777 Deflection rail (u shaped one)
07-11-9-963-355 Drain plug
11-12-9-071-590 Valve cover gasket (lft)
11-12-9-071-589 Valve cover gasket (rt)
11-12-1-726-537 Bushing x16
11-12-1-721-879 Valve cover gasket seal x6
11-14-1-436-978 Gasket set (lower cover)
11-14-1-741-532 Profile gasket (upper cover 1-4)
11-14-1-741-533 Profile gasket (upper cover 5-8)
11-14-1-435-023 Gasket x2 (vanos solenoid)
11-13-1-742-109 Gasket (upper oil pan)
11-43-1-715-614 Flat washer
11-43-1-707-164 O-ring
11-13-1-436-324 Oil pan gasket (lower)
11-15-1-736-140 O-ring
11-15-1-747-978 O-ring
11-15-1-439-989 O-ring
11-61-1-745-195 O-ring
11-61-1-729-727 Intake gasket (throttle to intake)
11-61-1-729-728 Intake end gasket (intake to osv)
11-61-1-433-328 Intake manifold gasket x4
11-53-1-710-055 Water pump o-ring x2 (small tube)
07-11-9-963-200 Seal ring x2
13-62-1-433-077 Coolant temp sensor w/o-ring
13-72-1-736-675 Air filter
11-14-1-736-758 O-ring (under 1-4 timing cover)

There are probably some things I'm missing (cant find all receipts). Also, there may be somethings you could reuse. This list just gives you an
idea of whats needed. I was doing ps lines at the same time so I have some washers and o-rings listed here that might be for those.

To begin with, find TDC and install a flywheel pin (sorry, no pic).
I then removed everything from in front of the motor. You could go about that however you wnat in whatever order you want.
I started by unplugging all the wires that come from the electrical boxes on top of the motor.

Next was the fan and shroud.


Radiator and tank
Then all this crap can come out. Hoses, belts, pullies, air hose and pump, water pump, tensioner pullies...
Then I moved up top and remover the ele. box and unbolted the fuel rail. Its possible to eliminate steps here by just removing the whole
manifold with boxes and fuel rail and injectors still attached. I wanted to replace all the injector o-rings and clean the intake, so I took it all
apart. A good idea before starting this project is to depressurize the fuel system so it doesnt leak everywhere when you pull the injectors.
Throttle body removed
Here is the pullies and pumps removed. Next I removed the dipstick and alt.
Intake removed. Stuff or tape off the intake ports to prevent stuff falling in. Now is a good time to check the rear water hoses for signs of
wear. Also look over the rear coolant manifold. I left mine in place, but it would be super easy to pull it and replace the gaskets.
This tube was replaced. I think I forgot to list it in the parts list above.

Valve cover removed. This nut was loose on my car.


Upper covers removed. To do this the vanos seals come off as well as the chain tensioner on the pass side cover(cyl 1-4). I have a close up
shot of it a little further down. Tie the chain together so it doesnt skip teeth, unless you plan on timing the motor (I say its a must), then it
wont matter.

Valley pan removed, and coolant pipes. You can see the zip-tie holding the guide rail and chain together. I didnt mess with the knock sensors.
I was told they are super sensitive and need to be torqued to a very specific number to work right. It wasnt a big deal to work around them. I
suggest replacing the black plastic cover on the valley pan. Mine was super brittle and broke most of the tabs holding it on.

I didnt take a pic of the old rail still on, or me using the crank holder to pull the Jesus bolt off (sorry). The green dots are the bolts for the u
shaped rail. The lower rt bolt would be a pain in the rear with the chain still on. Not even sure it would be possible. Red dots are the rt side
guide rail. The lower one is just a snap in piviot point and the upper one is a bolt. There is also a bolt just below the upper red dot that
fastens the oil seperator to the rail. You can see it in later photos of the reassembled rails. Yellow dot is the lt rail bolt. It has some parts that
connect to the u shaped one. Just below the lt exhaust cam you can see a green o-ring. Replace that. Its for an oil passage to the chain
tensioner. I forgot to order it and that held me up a couple of days. Now is a good time to clean all gasket surfaces. Also, to remove the lower
cover there are 6 bolts on the underside of the cover. 5 inside the oil pan and one just outside it on the drivers side.

Here is the new rails installed. You can see the new oil separator behind them. The green box is a grub screw that holds the oil separator in
place. The red box is the bolt that I think would be difficult to remove with the chain installed.
These are the cam locks used to time the motor.
Another close up of the rails. You can see alittle better the grub screw and the bolt I mentioned would be hard to remove with the chain in
place. You can see its recessed into the rail so that the chain covers part of it.

Lower cover back on. I chose to not remove the upper oil pan. Instead I bought a new gasket and cut the section that was exposed. When
reinstalling I used sealer where the cover met the upper oil pan and engine block. I put a new crank seal on too. To install the cover I was
told to push down firmly and tighten the lower two 13mm bolts on the front of the cover, then alternating lt to rt, do the all the front bolts.
Then tighten the bolts on the underside.

Just before installing the upper covers I put some sealer on the joint where the lower and upper covers meet the block. To reinstall them
temp. put the valve covers back on. There are two ways. BMW makes a special shim that goes between the valve cover and upper cover. I
just doubled up the old gasket. As you tighten down on the valve cover it pushes the upper cove down. Once the upper cover is level with the
head, install the upper cover bolts in a alternating, lt to rt pattern. Once their tight, remove the valve cover and check to see if the upper
cover is level with the head. If its not do it over. It took me two tries on the first side to get it right. Check the pdf in the diy section for
torque specs.
Here is the other side. After its in, install the tensioner.

Here is the crank holder puting the crank bolt on. You can also see the new vanos seals installed.
Here is a shot of the chain tensioner on the pass side upper timing cover. There is a metal crush ring that should be replaced.
Make sure you clean all the o-ring spots too.
Here is the dipstick hole. I installed a new o-ring and metal washer.
Now its just a matter of reinstalling stuff. I'll post up some pics of various parts. Depending on what order you took stuff off will determine
how you put it back on. Just remember to lube all your o-rings as you put them in. You dont want them tearing or not seating right. Dont
forget the injector clips (like I did) if you removed them.

New valley pan.


Water pump and tubes.
This coolant pipe go's to the trans cooler.
OSV tube.
Dipstick and ps pump reinstalled.

OSV and hoses, also new jet pump that broke when I was removing it.
Intake reinstalled.
Throttle body and air pipe reinstalled. The o-rings on the air pipe were a little tricky to seat right. Oil them and take your time.
Thats pretty much it. If you have any questions let me know. I'll try to help as much as possible.

Here is the videos of initial start up.


[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRPj7zXPS1I&feature=player_detailpage[/ame]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMV5MalTLFw&feature=player_detailpage[/ame]

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