Syncro Trak Service Manual
Syncro Trak Service Manual
2nd Edition
Released 07 January 2008
P/N 44107165A
a. Portable prover
i. Install Condat System and computer
ii. Install fake flow meter / signal generator
iii. Lock out AC or DC power to motor with padlock
iv. Turn on the 24VDC to the Condat
b. Stationary prover
i. Lock out AC power to prover with padlock
If you do not receive pulses when you trip the upstream optic check
the 401D board and see if the light is on and flashing, if so replace
the optic switch and run test again. If the pulses now start at the
upstream switch, you can trip the downstream switch and the
pulses should stop.
If the pulse did not stop when you swiped the downstream switch
and the light is flashing on the 401D board, replace the optic switch.
If you check the 401D board and the LED light is not on, check the
input power (24 VDC). If you have power to the board and no LED
light, replace 401D and run through the above sequence again.
Check to see if all six pins have been installed (see Figure
1).
Use a pipe clamp and pull the switch bar in the direction
needed, you may have to move both ends (see Figure 5).
If the pocket in the plate is bigger than the switch bar, the
gap will need to be filled with JB weld or a shim must be
installed between the 5/8 rod and the switch bar itself. This
shim must be bolted to the plate. These adjustments will
most likely need to be performed at both ends of the switch
bar on opposite sides (see Figure 6).
RECHECK ALIGNMENT
ii. Pull the puller up to the cam follower with the gage between
them, the drag should be the same at both cam followers
(see Figure 7). If drag is not the same, adjust pillow blocks
to get the correct clearance at the cam followers
(see Figure 8).
NOTE: On S85 and S120 you must loosen both pillow blocks on
the same side
iii. On the S35 you must shim the 6 bar at the flange end to
align the puller, as bearings are not adjustable on this model
of prover (see Figure 9).
iv. When you are making the above adjustment you need to
check the chain to be sure that it does not climb on the side
of the sprocket when it picks up the guide block. If this
occurs, adjust the sprockets to eliminate the problem.
Sprocket adjustment must be checked both downstream and
upstream
NOTE: If the sprockets are loosened or are loose from the shaft
they must be fastened with #290 Green Loctite after all adjustments
have been made (see Figure 10).
ii. Check to see if there are pins (1/4-20 bolts) securing the
flange plate to the frame. If these pins are not in place install
one on each side, next to the mounting bolts of the flange
plate. Drill two holes through the mount bracket and the end
plate, next to the mounting bolts. Drill two holes through the
mount plate and the frame, next to the mounting bolts. Tap
each drilled hole with 1/4-20 tap and install bolts (see Figure
g. On the S35 the alignment of the puller is set at the factory. If for
some reason the alignment is off you will need to shim the bearing
rail to align the puller (see Figure 7).
i. Check shocks and if the shock passes the following test, it is ok.
i. Push down on the shock very fast and it should stop, then
continue moving some more.
ii. If you push down on the shock and it bottoms out check the
adjustment, as almost all of the shocks are adjustable. If
after adjusting and retesting the shock it still does not
perform correctly, the shock needs replacement.
iii. The shocks must also be adjusted on the prover itself (see
Figure 12). This adjustment must be CORRECT and the
same on all four shocks.
b. Remove old seals and washers. Clean and inspect seal retainer.
Check seal surfaces for scratches and a surface finish of 12rms.
If necessary, polish the seal surfaces.
c. Push piston downstream. Place puller on the front side of the guide
block and use a wrench on the drive sprocket to push piston
downstream.
NEVER lift piston with the end of shaft that is away from the piston
body.
f. Set piston down flat onto two 2x4s with shaft pointing up.
g. Clean and inspect flow tube. Check for gouges, excessive wear,
deplating, pitting, etc.
k. Check seal grove width for proper seal fit, use gauge if available. If
the grove is too small check with factory to get the proper
dimensions to have the piston body machined.
l. Install new riders. All riders on S50 and larger provers should have
two 45-degree groves cut in them spaced 90 or 180 degrees apart.
Use a sharp utility knife to create groove, depth of groove is to be
80% of the rider thickness and 1/8 wide. Cut grooves after rider is
installed on piston body. This modification may be performed on
S25 and S05 if piston appears tight when installing new seal kits
(see Figure 15). All riders should have chamfered inside edges to
allow for proper seating in the piston (see Figure 15).
m. Install new piston seals so that the open end points outward, away
from the rider.
ii. Support the upstream shaft so that the assembly will not tip
or fall. To prevent tipping, attach one end of a chain to the
piston shaft using a bolt and attach the other end of the
chain to a fixed point.
iii. With the assembly supported and resting on the poppet only,
push down on the piston body. The body should move
independently from the poppet and return to its original
location when the pushing force is removed. Be careful not
to damage the piston seals when pushing on the piston body
as they can be damaged easily.
iv. Keep all body parts clear of the piston support when
performing this test to avoid serious injury.
p. Lift piston with nylon strap using a crane and install downstream
shaft.
b. Remove old seals and inspect seal retainer checking seal surfaces.
e. Install guide block, washer, and nut onto the stud in the piston
shaft; be sure to clean the threads on the stud and be careful not to
damage the optic switches. If prover has only a bolt in the piston
shaft, it is recommended that it be replaced with a B7 stud and 2H
nut. Any prover found using a standard nut in place of the 2H
needs to have it replaced with a 2H nut. For Loctite location on the
above items, see Figure 16.
g. Lock washers are not used at the location described in 6.e. If the
prover does have a lock washer remove it and replace with a flat
washer.
7. Loctite list
a. All bolts on the inside of the prover use # 242 Blue Loctite.
b. B7 stud assembled in to the piston shaft uses #272 Red Loctite.
c. 2H nut for the B7 stud uses # 242 Blue Loctite.
d. Tension bolts used to hold the adjustment of the pillow blocks and
gear box use #242 Blue Loctite.
e. Sprockets to shafts use # 290 Green Loctite.
f. Pillow blocks to shaft use #290 Green Loctite.
g. The pin bolts on the drive system use #242 Blue Loctite.
GROUND
TERMINAL
FLEXIBLE
BRAIDED
GROUND
STRAP
GROUND
TERMINAL
NOTE:
SOME SPROCKETS,
CHAINS, HARDWARE, ETC.
OMITTED FOR CLARITY
FIGURE 2
RYTON BEARING SHIMS .003/.005
CLEARANCE
DETAIL B
B A
DETAIL A
FIGURE 3
EXPLODED VIEW OF B7 STUD ALIGNMENT
SAG
1/32" TO 1/16"
TOP OF HOLE TO
TOP OF THREADS
B7 STUD
FIGURE 4
TOP VIEW CLAMP
PIPE
FIGURE 5
1/4-20 BOLT
THREADED
ROD
SWITCH BAR
WEDGE
PLATE
THREADED
ROD
FILL GAP
WITH JB WELD
FIGURE 6
OPTIC SWITCH
PULLER GUIDE BLOCK
FEELER GAUGE
FLOW TUBE
SHOCK ABSORBER
FIGURE 7
ADJUST PILLOW BLOCKS THIS END
ADJUST PILLOW BLOCKS THIS END
TO ADJUST PULLER
TO ADJUST FOR CHAIN SLAK
TOP VIEW
LOCTITE #242
6 PLACES
FIGURE 8
6 BAR WITH RAIL STOP IN PLACE
FIGURE 9
SPROCKET
1
PILLOW
1 BLOCK
1
FIGURE 10
3/4" SAG
CHAIN TENSION ADJUST THIS END
FIGURE 11
.125
FIGURE 12
kmn 8/24/2004
UPSTREAM DOWNSTREAM
HOIZONAL ADJUSTMENT
VIRTACAL ADJUSTMENT
FIGURE 13
1 IGUS BEARING
2 SHAFT SEAL (S05/S15/S25/S35: SQUARED)
(S50/S85/S120: ROUNDED)
3 RYTON WASHER (NOTCHED)
4 RETAINING RING
5 RYTON WASHER
6 SHAFT SEAL (SQUARED)
7 O-RING
SEAL RETAINER
6 1 2 3 4 5 6 3 4 7
FIGURE 14
DETAIL A
450'
CHAMFER
FIGURE 15
A
A SECTION A-A
GUIDE BLOCK
ASSEMBLY
INSTALL B7 STUD IN
PISTON SHAFT USING
LOCTITE #272 RED
PISTON SHAFT
INSTALL NUT ONTO
B7 STUD USING
LOCTITE #242 BLUE
2H NUT
B7 STUD
WASHER
SHOCK STOP
FIGURE 16