Wiring Diagrams for Household Switches

This page contains wiring diagrams for household light switches and includes a switch loop, a
single-pole switch, rheostat dimmer and a few choices for wiring a combo receptacle/switch
device. Also included are wiring arrangements for multiple light fixtures and a split receptacle
controlled by two switches.

Wiring a Switch Loop

When the electrical source originates at a light fixture and it's controlled from a remote
location, a switch loop is used. The circuit pictured here is wired with 2-conductor cable
running from the light to the switch location. The white cable wire in this switch loop is
wrapped with black tape and connected to the bottom terminal on SW1 and the hot source at
the light. The black wire is connected to the top terminal on SW1 and the hot terminal on the
light fixture. The neutral from the source is connected directly to the neutral terminal on the
light.

This is an updated version of the first arrangement. Because the electrical code as of the 2012
NEC update requires a neutral wire in most new switch boxes, a 3-wire cable runs between
the light and switch. The red and black are used for hot and the white neutral wire at the
switch box allows for powering a remote controlled switch.

Single-Pole Switch to Control a Light

Here a single-pole switch controls the electricity to a light fixture. The source is at the switch
and 2-conductor cable runs from there to the light. The source hot wire is connected to the
bottom terminal on the switch and the top terminal is connected to the black cable wire. The
neutral wire from the source is spliced to the white cable wire and continues on to the light. At

the light, the white wire connects to the neutral terminal and the black wire connects to the
hot.

Two Switches Control Two Lights

Here two switches are wired in the same box to control two separate light fixtures. The source
is at the switch box and a 2-conductor cable is run to each light. The source hot is spliced to
each switch with a pigtail to power the lights.

Three-way and four-way Switch

This article follows American usage. Readers in the most other countries should read "twoway" for the American "three-way" and "intermediate" or "crossover" switch for the
American "four-way".[1][2] [3] [4]
The controlled load is often a lamp, but multiway switching is used to control other electrical
loads, such as an electrical outlet, fans, pumps, heaters, or other appliances. The electrical
load may be permanently hard-wired, or plugged into a switched receptacle.
Three-way and four-way switches make it possible to control a light from multiple locations,
such as the top and bottom of a stairway, either end of a long hallway, or multiple doorways
into a large room. These switches appear externally similar to Single Pole, Single Throw
(SPST) switches, but have extra connections which allow a circuit to be controlled from
multiple locations. Toggling the switch disconnects one "traveler" terminal and connects the
other.
Electrically, a "3-way" switch is a Single-Pole, Double-Throw (SPDT) switch. By correctly
connecting two of these switches together, toggling either switch changes the state of the load
from off to on, or on to off. The switches may be arranged so that they are in the same
orientation for off, and contrasting orientations for on.
A "4-way" (intermediate) switch is a purpose built Double Pole, Double Throw (DPDT)
switch, internally wired in manufacture to reverse the connections between the input and
output and having only four external terminals. This switch has two pairs of "traveler"
terminals that it connects either straight through, or crossed over (transposed, or swapped). An
intermediate switch can, however, be implemented by adding appropriate external wiring to
an ordinary (six terminal) DPDT switch.

By connecting one or more 4-way (intermediate) switches in-line, with 3-way switches at
either end, the load can be controlled from three or more locations. Toggling any switch
changes the state of the load from off to on, or from on to off.
3 Way and 4 Way Wiring for Multiple Lights

The diagrams on this page illustrate connecting multiple light fixture in 3 way and 4 way
switch circuits. Check below for more details about these circuits and some troubleshooting
tips.
Multiple Lights Between 3 Way Switches

In this circuit, two fixtures are shown but more can be added by duplicating the wiring
arrangement between the lights for each one added. Here the source is at SW1 and 3-wire
cable runs from there to L1. Two, 2-wire cables run between the fixtures, and 3-wire cable
runs from the last one to SW2.
At the beginning of the circuit the hot source is connected to the common terminal on SW1.
The neutral is spliced to the white cable wire and then spliced to the neutral terminal at L1,
along with the white 2-cable wire running to L2 where it connects to the neutral terminal. The
traveler wires are run using the other 2-wire cable between the lights and continue on to the
traveler terminals on SW2. They don't connect to the fixtures at all.

Lights Before the Switches

This diagram illustrates another multiple light circuit controlled by 3 way switches. Here the
source and the fixtures come before the switches. As with the other diagrams on this page,
more lights can be added by duplicating the arrangement between the fixtures.
A 3-wire cable runs from L1 to L2, 2-wire cable runs from there to the first switch, and 3-wire
cable runs between SW1 and SW2. The source hot is spliced to the black wire running
between the lights and at the last light, it is spliced to the black wire running through to the
common on SW1. The white wire is marked black and spliced to the black wire running to the
common on SW2.
Back at the lights the source neutral is connected to the neutral terminal on L1 and spliced
with the white wire running between the fixtures. At each light it's connected to the neutral
terminal. At SW1 the red and white wires from the 3-wire cable running between switches
function as the travelers with the white marked for hot using black tape or paint.

Multiple Fixtures on a 4 Way Switch

This drawing shows the wiring for multiple lights in a 4 way circuit with the source and
fixtures coming before the switches. More lights can be added to this circuit by duplicating
the wiring shown here for each additional fixture. Here 3-wire cable runs between L1 and L2,
2-wire cable runs from the last fixture to SW1, and 3-wires runs between SW1 and SW2.
At the lights the hot source is spliced to the black wire at each fixture box, at the last fixture it
is spliced to the black wire running to the common on SW1. The neutral from the source is
connected to each light fixture with a pigtail and run on to the next light.
At SW1 the white wire is wrapped with black tape and run through to the common on SW2
using the white wire at each switch. At the lights the white wire from SW2 is spliced to the
hot terminal on each fixture. The black and red wires running between the switches serve as
the travelers for the circuit. At the 4 way the travelers from SW1 connect to T1 and T2
connect to the travelers for SW2.
About These Circuits

A 4 way switch must be wired between two 3 ways as shown in the diagrams on this page. A
4 way has five connections, one ground and 4 circuit terminals divided into two matching
pairs, sometimes called the input and the output. The terminal pairs may be different colors or
they may be labeled to distinguish them from each other. Each pair of terminals should be
wired to the traveler wires from one of the 3 ways. The travelers can be wired to either
terminal in a pair but don't mix up the pairs or the circuit won't work properly.
Three way switches have 3 terminals to carry circuit electricity and one terminal for a ground
wire. Of the three circuit terminals, one is called the common and the other two are known as

travelers. The common terminal may be labeled and is usually a different color than the
traveler terminals. Depending on the manufacturer, the travelers may be on opposite sides of
the switch or the two terminals may be on the same side. In any case, the common terminal
will be distinguished from the travelers in some way.
The common terminals will always be connected to a hot wire, either the hot source or the
device hot. These connections can be reverse if it's more convenient, as long as one of the 3
way switch common terminals connects to the hot source and the other one connects to the
hot on the load, these circuits will work properly. The traveler terminals will be connected
from switch to switch. Travelers never connect to a device load or to a source wire. It doesn't
matter which traveler terminals are used for which traveler wire, reversing them should make
no difference.
Troubleshooting 3 Way Circuits

If your switches stop working they may be worn out or the screws may have come loose. If
you've wired a new switch correctly and the circuit still doesn't work, the switch may be
defective. Check that all connections are tight and test suspect switches with a continuity
tester or multimeter set on the Ohms setting.
If the switch is good make sure the hot wire from the source is connect to the common
terminal on one of the 3 way switches and the hot wire to the fixture is connected to the
common on the other. Likewise, be sure the traveler terminals are connected between
switches only, and not to any hot wires or the load. Also be sure the neutral from the source is
connected to the neutral terminal at the light. A neutral wire will usually not be connected to
the switches in these circuits, although some remote controlled switches may make use a
neutral wire to operate the radio receiver for the remote.

4 Way Switch Wiring Diagrams

The wiring diagrams on this page make use of 4 way switches, between two 3 way switches,
to control lights from three or more locations. A dimmer diagram is included as well as an
arrangement to control the lights from four different points. Check here for 4 way switch
troubleshooting and help with 3 ways switches here. For circuits that control lights from two
locations only, check the wiring diagrams at this link.
Source at First Switch

In this basic 4 way light circuit the source is at the first switch and the hot connects to the
common on that switch. Three-wire cable runs between all the switches and the traveler wires
are connected between the two 3-ways and the 4-way. Two-wire cable runs from the last
switch to the light fixture and the common on that switch connects to the hot terminal on the
light.

Source at the Light

This diagram illustrates wiring for a 4 way circuit with the electrical source at the light fixture
and the switches coming after. Two-wire cable is run from the light to SW1 and 3-wire cable
runs between all the switches. The hot source is spliced through to the common terminal on
SW2 and the hot terminal on the light fixture is connected to the common on SW1. The
travelers run from SW1 to T1 on the 4 way and from T2 to the travelers on SW2.
Source and Light Center

This wiring shows the light fixture and the electrical source between the switches. Three-wire
cable runs throughout and the hot source is splice to the common on SW1. The common on
SW2 is spliced through to the hot on the light fixture. The travelers from SW1 are spliced at
the fixture outlet box to run to the 4 way switch. The 4 way comes right after the light fixture,
but before the second 3 way switch, making it fall between the two 3 ways as needed. It could
also be installed on the other side of the light and the effect would be the same.
Control Lights from Four Locations

Here two 4 way and two 3 way switches are used to control lights from four different
locations. The source is at SW1 and the hot wire is connected to the common terminal. Threewire cable runs between all switches and 2-wire cable runs from the last switch to the light
fixture. The light hot connects to the common terminal on SW2. The two 4-ways are located
between the two 3-ways and the traveler wires run from SW1 to T1 on the first 4-way. T2
from that switch is wired to T1 on the second 4way and the output from there to the traveler
terminals on SW2.

Wiring Diagrams for a GFCI Combo Switch

This page contains wiring diagrams for a ground fault circuit interrupter (gfci) with a built in
switch. This device can be used to protect a garbage disposal and provide a gfci protected
receptacle in a single gang outlet box. The switch can be included in the protected circuit or it
can be used to control an unprotected light or other fixture.
Wiring Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter Switch

This diagram illustrates the wiring for a Cooper gfci/switch combo device wired to protect a
garbage disposal. With this arrangement a receptacle, switch and disposal are protected with
the ground fault breaker built into the device.

Wiring Ground Fault Interrupter and Light Switch

This ground fault circuit interrupter wiring diagram of the same device leaves the switch out
of the protected circuit. With this arrangement the receptacle is protected but the switch
remains outside the circuit. This arrangement can be used to control a light or other device
where the extra protection of a gfci is not necessary.

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter Wiring

Diagrams
Check local regulations for restrictions and permit requirements before beginning electrical
work
This page contains wiring diagrams for ground fault circuit interrupter (gfci) receptacles.
Included are diagrams for multiple gfci's, a protected standard duplex receptacle, and a
protected light fixture. Wiring for a switch and gfci receptacle in the same box is also shown
to protect the switch and light or to protect other receptacles in the circuit.

Multiple GFCI's with Protected Duplex Receptacle

This gfci wiring provides protection to a duplex receptacle. By connecting the load terminals
on the last gfci, the receptacle is protected and can be used just as if it were one of the gfci
receptacles. One ground fault circuit interrupter at the beginning of the circuit can be used in
the same way to protect multiple, subsequent receptacles as illustrated in the diagram below.

Multiple GFCI's and a Duplex Receptacle

This diagram illustrates the wiring for multiple ground fault circuit interrupter receptacles
with an unprotected duplex receptacle at the end of the circuit. The load terminals on the gfci
are not used and the last receptacle is wired directly to the circuit source.

GFCI with Protected Light

This diagram illustrates the wiring for a circuit with gfci receptacles followed by a light and
switch. By connecting the switch to the load terminals on the gfci, the light is protected
against ground faults as well.

GFCI with Unprotected Light

This diagram illustrates the wiring for a circuit with gfci receptacles followed by an
unprotected light and switch. The light switch is connected directly to the source and the load
terminals on the gfci are not used.

House Circuit Breaker Wiring Diagrams

Check local regulations for restrictions and permit requirements before beginning electrical
work
This page contains wiring diagrams for circuit breakers including 15, 20, 30 and 50 amp
breakers, as well as a ground fault circuit interrupter breaker. The breaker is installed in a
service panel so that it makes contact with one of two hot bus bars that run down the middle
of the box.
The hot wire for a circuit is connected to the breaker by a set screw on the base. The neutral
and ground wires for the circuit are connected to a bar along the side of the service panel box.
The neutral and grounding bars in the service panel may be separate or, in the case of older
service panels, the same bar may be used for both purposes.

Wiring a 15 Amp Circuit Breaker

This wiring diagram illustrates installing a 15 amp circuit breaker for a 120 volt circuit. The
14/2 awg cable for this circuit includes 2 conductors and 1 ground. A 15 amp circuit is usually
used for wall receptacle outlets and light fixtures.

20 Amp Double Receptacle Circuit

This diagram illustrates the arrangement for a 20 amp double receptacle circuit with a shared
neutral wire. This arrangement is typically used in a kitchen where two appliance circuits are
needed in close proximity to each other.

20 Amp 240 Volt Appliance Circuit

This circuit breaker wiring diagram illustrates installing a 20 amp circuit breaker for a 240
volt circuit. The 12/2 gauge cable for this circuit includes 2 conductors and 1 ground. A

dedicated 20 amp circuit like this is used for heavy household appliances like an air
conditioners.

30 Amp Circuit Breaker

This circuit breaker wiring diagram illustrates installing a 30 amp circuit breaker for a 240
volt circuit. The 10/3 cable for this circuit has 3 conductors and no ground. A 30 amp circuit
like this is usually found in water heater circuits and older installations for clothes dryers and
kitchen ranges. For a new installation of a kitchen range, use the diagram below for a 50amp
circuit.

50 Amp Circuit Breaker

This circuit breaker wiring diagram illustrates installing a 50 amp circuit breaker for a 240
volt circuit. The 6 gauge cable for this circuit has 3 conductors and 1 ground. A 50 amp circuit
like this is used for clothes dryers and new kitchen range installations.

Wiring a GFCI Circuit Breaker

This diagram illustrates wiring for a circuit breaker with a built-in ground fault circuit
interrupter. This 20 amp ground fault interrupter breaker is a form of gfci that can be installed
at the circuit source. This kind of circuit is used for garbage disposals, whirlpool spas and
other locations where water contact is likely.

15 Amp Isolated Ground Circuit

An isolated-ground receptacle makes use of an extra wire for a separate ground in the circuit.
This is the red wire in the 14/3 cable used here which is marked and connected to the
grounding terminal on the receptacle. The other cable wires are connected as with any other
circuit except for the ground wire. The bare copper ground wire is NOT connected to the
receptacle, instead it is connected to the grounding terminal inside the electrical box where
the receptacle is housed.
A special isolated-ground receptacle is require for this circuit and can be identified by the
orange color and a small triangle imprinted on the face. When connecting the wires, the
isolated ground wire (the red wire pictured here) is marked with green tape or paint on each
end and connected to the grounding bar in the service panel, and to the grounding terminal on
the receptacle. This arrangement is used for computers and sensitive A/V equipment such as a
home theater, to eliminate noise interference in the audio and video output that can be caused
by the grounding wires throughout a dwelling electrical system.