Ss bes Dt a us YsSHIIS YU 5 4b COPYRIGHT ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF DRAFTINGS. No. 20 MISS G. A. HASLAM 45, SEYMOUR ROAD BOLTON, Lancs. Telephone: BOLTON 3268The “Haslam” System of Dresscutting BOOK _OF DRAFTINGS THE DRAFTINGS in this book are based on the FOUNDATION DRESS PATTERN. First draft the plain foundation then follow draftings. The COAT SLEEVES are also based on the foundation coat sleeve pattern. All draftings give actual fitting lines, the dotted lines are construction lines only. When cutting out materials the following turnings must be allowed :— For Dresses. For Coats. Shoulder and side seams wats na si # am NGCR a Ma an aie a ae +7 Armholes (§" is allowed in the drafting) 2... i Collars ay Lia ge Z £ Hems " Pier es = For SKIRTS : Side seams, 1”; hems, 2°. BLOUSES : 4” on all seams. DARTS. Where darts are to be made in the material, they are shown in the draftings. If a dart is marked “to pin up" it must be pinned up in the pattern before the material is cut out. This will give plain fitting without darts, THE AMOUNTS OF MATERIAL required for the respective garments are given at the head of each page. These amounts are for medium figures. For full or very tall figures : 4 yard of 36-in. or 4 yard of 52-in. over the amounts given will be required. DRAFTINGS are given for all the respective illustrations. If another style of skirt for a dress is preferred, other suitable drafting can be selected to suit the individual taste, and substituted. SLEEVES FIXING OF SLEEVES in the correct position Is of the greatest importance, and the directions given below should be followed. Hold the garment with the armhole towards you, and measuring from the underarm seam, place the SLEEVE SEAM for :— DRESSES jin. towards the front (children 4-in.) with the hollow part to the front of armhole, except those marked “ seam to seam.”” Pin in round the underarm, and measuring I-in. from the shoulder seam down the back, and 2-in./2j-In. down the front, arrange the fullness into small pleats or gathers over the top. Or the fullness may be arranged into one boxpleat on top of shoulder. To give a straight and square shoulder effect, lift the sleeve head 4-in. over the usual fitting line when fixing in, and to support the sleeve take a double layer of linen and muslin 3-in. x 54-in., taper at each end, then cover with material and machine well. Or make a pad of wadding, 2}-in. x 5-in., and cover with silk, Stitch to the armhole turnings and catch to shoulder seam. COAT SLEEVES. The dart positions are given in the draftings. Machine the darts and press open before fixing. Place the SLEEVE SEAM 3-in. to 34-in. towards the front (children I-in, less), with the hollow part of sleeve underneath, Pin in across the underarm, bring the sleeve fitting line $-in. over the armhole fitting line on the shoulder. Pin the sleeves in easily, tack round, machine, then press. Cut a double layer of wadding 4-in. x 6-in. for the shoulder pad, baste to a piece of canvas and place between the lining and the material over the top of the shoulder to extend 1}-in. inside the sleeve. Attach to shoulder semand steele ‘turnings. For an unlined coat the pad is made and covered with silk to match the coat. Stitch to the armhole turnings and catch to the shoulder seam. SPECIAL NOTE—COLLAR AND REVER FACINGS When making coat collars it is essential that the collar facing is a good shape. To obtain the desired effect, the coat facings should be cut about 3-in. higher than the neck of coat, from the shoulder to the position for end of collar. The collar is hemmed to the coat on the ordinary fitting line. Turn in the rever facing 4-in, above the collar seam, and taper to shoulder and end of collar. Then turn in the collar facing to meet the rever facing, and drawstitch together. This gives a good line for the collar seam. DRAFTING INSTRUCTIONS FOR ONE-PIECE DRESS SLEEVES Mark the dotted armhole line across the paper the measurements required for sleeve. Then mark the centre. Make the sleeve raise, and shorter lines on each side, then draw the top of sleeve curve as given in the diagram. Place corner of chart to centre dot, at right-angles with armhole line, and make the dotted centre line the sleeve length required. PoetK the wcll. side dotted lines. Complecetetin dratting ac diario theDRESS Material required: 34/4 yards 36 in. 24 yards 52-in. mit centre dart for Fig. 6 BACK FIGS. 1,2, 3, and 6 sep yeu pur '9 Bly 40) 284 21010) a Bin FE TAS BP TD 1+ wader delist BERT IO] CAND 9 HOT onsod beg 3° wider than hips tine SLEEVE FIGS. | and 6 ua onaais TRE , FIG. 22g page 26 Epa |e ]e Add 6" for pleat A hips 4 1g"26 COAT Material required: 2%(3 yards 54-in. i i" | "I \e Z| j fe 3 \ 6 3 ! io Br ' 5 | |e re a 4 hips + I I i ! panel seam from ! shoulders is preferred | continue the ine from point of dart to waist | } and omit curved seam ! 1 Refer to back ' | “cover for i zigzag lines | | I | i | | 3° wider than hips line 3° wider than hips line COLLAR—Refer to page 2 of cover Tor rever and collar facing Neck SLEEVE FIGS. 31, 32, 33 Fea E A COLLAR 3i FIG. 33 ue Tomer 4COAT Material required: 3 yards 54-in. (For shoulder pad) L Nin Fe Sn arm length a ~ ~~ B. Underarm fen, 3° wider than hips line _ COLLAR Fix in seam to Seam SLEEVE FIG. 34 ‘Parmhole Te} wav] anavig Add 4” for pleat ‘Seam 2/3" wi 2 for fare Cut and open \ Ader thanips ne i £ BERE The Drattin page]28 CHILDREN’S WEAR Material required: See page 3-of cover ow 1 for gthere SKIRT, FIG. 35 FRONT ang BACK (Omit panel for back) Tucks or gathers lnverted plede SKIRT FRONT and BACK Cut ewice and open Side piece Ie wider than aboveHELPFUL HINTS FOR THE MAKING OF GARMENTS GIVEN IN THIS BOOK ZIG-ZAG LINES IN DRAFTING. Where these are shown, the pattern must be cut on the ig-zag lines. Pin on the material ang chalk a line from top to bottom, touching the points,” This gives the correct faing tne ferns plece. PLEATS, Where allowance for plats i given in the draftings, first cut the pattern on the lines marked ne drafting, then place for the plese wanna sbace the pattern 4in, to Gin. apart as given. Threadmark down each side, beeeine sees ei pattern, {or the pleats position. Cut the threads, fold the pleats on the threadmarks, tack and prac aeeed cnace pare peat front fllnesin ths shire, eut the pattern on the dotted lines (keeping the patterns level atthe bottom), and space apart. Make a new fitting line from each end along the top and botean\ gar side fronts of the bodice are faced at the top and stitched to the Bodice. ‘The top collar is made detachable. DRESS, FIG. 4.,Front. The trimming lines must be traced from the pattern, Cut in double material, eatin along the outer sesh ane turn through. Fix n position and machine. The neck If faced. The bows are made of pars forming loops. RES Fae multe. yoke patterns of bodice and skirt in double paper, and trace for the points right and left respectively. ech pee righ, Aken £0 add the points where cutaway in bodice'and shir: When cutting the ercry eceePes place Each plece right side uppermost. The trimming is wool embroidery, eeeeiont Pug, reg haute is cut on the cross of material, Cut the neck alittle higher to fold Inside. The scallops are faced Sopetheint and the righthand side gauged across the shoulders. Mark the contre ine on ho ote ant place the armholes Cae to, mark che position on the left side for the scallops, Fix in portion and ty on tenner Be righe saat tkits pattern in double paper, and mark the line for the left-hand side. Mark sighe ana lee respectively. When cutting Tighe side of cy Cfighthand side, and Zino lef side piece, for the pleats. Each plese the ravers ee be placed on the right side of the material, “A seam is made under the end plese. DRESS. FIG, 7. The let side of bodice is cut to extend under the panel, and the right-hand side to the panel only. The centre the cae jaune placed to a fold, and the let side is open for fastening. The ight erimmice Krcreeh ene in. edge of fhe collar pattern, and s used for the collar, sleeves and pockets. Made from thir lecton eb ee DRESS, FIG. 8 The illustration shows a Poche 2 the skirt. The curved edge should be faced to form the front of the pocket, and the yoke cut 4.n. to Sin. deeper for the sack of the pocket A wide leather belt gives a smart finish to tne dress, PRESS: FIG. 11. The narrow panels are inset, The dress can be cut in one, and fitted closer with an extra dart for Princess dress. PRES IG; 12, ix she pleats jn the skirt and attach the yoke before joining to the bodice. Ty on and mata cen the waist line is correct. Sleeve, Fig. 4, can be substituted if preferred. press! FIG. 14. This dress has fne pin tucks. The skirt tucks are taken alternately on right and wrong sides of the material. RES. FIG. 15. The gathered fronts are arranged into a narrow panel, and the fattening made a: the svi of ne Panel, or 42-in, ean be Nocti egal, Bele, and imitation pockets are made of ping cords worked Ina design ee caine ar pockets can be round if preferred. DRESS) FIG, 16. The crossover fronts are guaged and fixed, right over left, to the walst band. ‘The skirt pleats are machined and fixed to the band, and the underarm seams done afterwacds, DRESSES, FIGS, 17 to 21. There are styles suitable for the fuller Ngure, eee Wi ales ect # made in self macerial and I-i. hem allowed, Fix ain. wide backing plece behind, and fasten at the top with press studs, DRESS AND COATEE, FIG. 22. Suitable for maternity wear. The dress has front pleats and one large pleat in the back. The centre front and'back pleats in the skirt are adjustable, 5 Care pant Gs 2h Adaptable for maternity wear. The pointed yoke can be adjusted from the frst pleat. eres KURT: One pattern only i given for the front and back. Trace through to obtain separately. For plaid material the patterns must meet down side seam, rac pleats In position, machine and press. The inside fold of pleat is machined after making the hem. BUTT, FIG: 2 The pockets have raised stitching. The skire has pin tucks machined to the top and halfoway alternately, SUIT, FIG. 25. The sleeve fullness is taken out in 2 pleats or a dart and a good pad inserted, Beer San QRUBNT: ie. 26927, 20 and 290s Rear’ to soecal aeda'ae Gant cee far cols sid caver facings before ‘cutting materlal, co STOIC ESE FIGS. 27 and 29. There are suitable costumes for“ allyenr-round ” wear. Ma panel seam is Preferred in the front of Fig. 27, the line given for Fig. 29 should be followed : cS TraIENe eee ha, atts makes up well in lighe coloured cloth with dark facings on the revers and pockets: The skirt is fairly straight, and has a single flat pleat in the front and bacte,slse at sack aide’ COAT, FIG, 30,_The shoulder seam is stitched and the sleve brought over tothe postion given in the drafting. Try on to make sure it is correct. A good shoulder pad is required, COAT, FIG. 21, Collar, The under-ollar i first joined to the coat, along the neck and top of reve. Lay tissue paper over the Backs and Joined scrub pattern f0 extend from the centre back to the waist. “The mecerial a cut wich ee ae the ences back, and is joined to the front facings at the waist, oo aaRhG Tinney oat smart made in plaid woollen or fine tweed. The pleats are tacked and pressed, and the yoke is then onthe shoulda eae ngerline the fronts and back of neck. The coat fe lined and faced in in whe hone ne hoe en fon the shoulders and back of necle COAT, IS, 3 C4 walhshaped, or closesctng at tha waists wanted, make an extra dart at each side: The collar and revers co Dreseetan gutable fur, Cue the fur a litle larger and hem over, or saam va gh eige st clhe end romeo ane vars to Dressmaking and Tailoring, Chapter XXI- COAT, FIG, 24. Raed seams are made on the sleves, pockets, and back of coat. The sleeve cup fulloes is taken out In the srg am: and a slight easing is given round the top. Refer to front cover for collar and rever fcng, aenarch Sint’ 'Antor or fine woollen materia. The crown has two dn. wide pieces fixed dlagonciy, with (2 pin tucks in teide band: 2r-fe, ander NRE is ocerlined with muslin and jlned to the crown on tne cuter edge THC inter eye ates ei ‘wide band, 2I-in. in length, made to fit the head, CHILDREN’S PAGE. FIG. 35. Material required, 2 yards of 36-in. FIG. 36, ow | He yards of 36:in, FIG. 37. oe eee ee ae