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Pattern Making

This document discusses the key steps and techniques involved in patternmaking. It begins with an agenda that includes taking body measurements, understanding sizing systems, pattern construction techniques, and producing final production patterns. It then provides details on each of these topics, including diagrams showing body measurement points, sizing charts, the use of construction lines and planes to create pattern blocks, and adding details like seams and hems to patterns. The goal of patternmaking is to create two-dimensional patterns that can be used to cut fabric into three-dimensional garments that fit the body.

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KathirrveluSubramainan
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© © All Rights Reserved
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
235 views

Pattern Making

This document discusses the key steps and techniques involved in patternmaking. It begins with an agenda that includes taking body measurements, understanding sizing systems, pattern construction techniques, and producing final production patterns. It then provides details on each of these topics, including diagrams showing body measurement points, sizing charts, the use of construction lines and planes to create pattern blocks, and adding details like seams and hems to patterns. The goal of patternmaking is to create two-dimensional patterns that can be used to cut fabric into three-dimensional garments that fit the body.

Uploaded by

KathirrveluSubramainan
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Patternmaking

Agenda
Body Measurements
Sizing System
Pattern Construction Techniques
Production Patterns

PATTERNMAKING

Population
Virtual display
Pattern construction procedure:
The Block Patternbasic pattern
that is used as a basic for all adaptations.

The Working Patternis used for


marking out the basic style lines and design
feature.

Taking body measurements

The final Pattern (Master)is pattern

S IZE

10

12

14

80.0

84.0

88.0

92.0

16

18

20

800
750
700
650
600
550
500
Frequency

from which the garment will be cut. It must be


clearly market with all the information required
for making up the garment.

450
400
350
300

B ust

(cm )

96.0 100.0 104.0

250
200
150
100

W aist

(cm )

62.0

66.0

70.0

74.0

78.0

82.0

86.0

50
0
-34

-29

-24

-19

-14

-9

-4

11

16

21

26

31

36

difference (bust and hip)

H ips

(cm )

86.0

90.0

94.0

Size chart formation

98.0 102.0 106.0 104.0

Somatometric data analysis

Diagram of the Body Measurements


measuring toolanthropometre

Curves
(non-linear)

Straight-lined
(linear)
Heights

Widths

Lengths

Widths

Others
measuring toolmeasuring tape

Girths

Front Profile

Crutch depth
(Body rise)

Head width

Bust prominence width


Stature

Shoulder width
Under arm length

Bust girth

Taking body measurements manually


Measurements required for bodice and sleeve
1

(h)

Body height

(bg)

Bust girth

(wg)

Waist girth

(ng)

Neck girth

(eg)

Elbow girth

(uag)

Upper arm girth

(wrg)

Wrist girth

(bfl)

Front length to bust

(sl)

Sleeve length

10

(shl)

Shoulder length

11

(wfl)

Front length to waist

12

(fw)

Across front (front width)

13

(bwp)

Bust prominence width

14

(nw)

Nape to waist (back


length)

15

(bw)

Across back (back width)

Measurements required for skirt and trousers


Measurements
1

(h)

Height

(wg)

Waist girth

16

(hg)

Hip girth

17

(uhg)

Upper hip girth

18

(tg)

Thigh girth

19

(kg)

Knee girth

20

(cg)

Calf girth

21

(ag)

Ankle girth

22

(kl)

Knee length
(waist to knee)

23

(al)

Ankle length
(waist to ankle)

24

(llo)

Outside leg length

25

(lli)

Inside leg length

26

(cd)

Crutch depth
(Body rise)

The parallel plains with the basic plain


are horizontal plains
and perpendicular to the vertical plains.
Significant horizontal (transversal) plains,
which are situated in important points
on the human body surface, are e.g.

1 2

Vertical plains
1 - centre back plain,
2 - side neck plain,
3 - back armhole plain,
4 - side plain,
5 - front armhole plain,
6 - chest plain,
7 - centre front plain,
8 - inside leg plain.

Horizontal plains
v - vertex plain,
n - neck plain,
sh -shoulder plain,
b - bust plain,
w - waist plain,
h - hip plain,
c - crutch plain
t - thigh plain,
k - knee plain,
a - ankle plain.

n
sh
b

6 7

w
h
c
t
k

a
Back body

Basic plain

Front body

Apparel patternmaking construction net

n
sh
b
w
h
c

n
b
w
c

sh
b
e
wr

k
k

a
a

The horizontal and vertical contour lines of the cross sections


project into the frontal plane. The flattened human body surface
gives to us systems of respectively perpendicular lines so called
construction net.
The net is the base for the apparel pattern construction.

Industrial Sizing System


A sizing system is a table of numbers which presents the value of each
of the body dimensions used to classify the bodies encountered in the population
for each size group in the system. Sizing system is the parameter complex specified
with the help of essential body dimensions:
Height, Bust girth, Waist girth for men, Hip girth for women
Size intervals are usually
classified according
to height and drop value.
For women, drop value
is defined as the difference
between the hip
circumference and the bust
circumference.
For men, drop value is
defined as the difference
between the chest and the
waist measurement.

S IZE

10

12

14

16

18

20

Bust

(cm )

80.0

84.0

88.0

92.0

96.0 100.0 104.0

W aist

(cm )

62.0

66.0

70.0

74.0

78.0

H ips

(cm )

86.0

90.0

94.0

98.0 102.0 106.0 104.0

100

96
158

80

170
104

women

82.0

men

86.0

Constructional abscissa
Ready-to-wear garment pattern is produced to use body = constructional dimensions,
that are setting in connection with the proposed sizing assortment
Constructional abscissa
(regression equation)

constructional abscissa
regression coefficient
body dimension
absolute term
easy allowances

FRONT BODICE

ABi
ki
Di
qi
ei

BACK BODICE

ABi = ki * Di + qi + ei

e.g. Basic formula for front width:


AB = 0.24 * wg + 2,5

Body block pattern construction

Pattern construction techniques


Pattern represents the two-dimensional
component parts of a garment.
They are used as a guide for cutting
the fabric, which sewn together form
a three dimensional garment.
The creation of these patterns is
the technique of pattern construction.

B = front waist dart

F = elbow dart

C = back shoulder dart

G = wrist dart

fr

CF

E = side seam

CB

bk

A = front shoulder dart

SUPRASIONS AREAS

D = back waist dart

D
E

Garment shaping by suppression


Suppression is the reduction of surplus
fabric to obtain a closer fit using darts,
seams, pleats or gathers.

The construction points are named according to their place on the body
surface and according to the number of construction steps and they are
marked by letters and numbers e.g.
horizontal
line n

horizontal
line n

horizontal
line n

-N1-N2-N21-

vertical
line 1

N21
N1
N2

vertical
line 2

vertical
line 2

-N21- step 1th

n
1

Production patterns
Seams, hems and facings are required to complete a garment pattern
for production.

Back- Interlining

Back- Lining

Back- Shell

Shell pattern
Lining pattern
Interlining pattern

Lining

Interlining

Shell

Seam allowances
The seam allowance is the distance from the
stitching line to the perimeter of a cut garment
part. The amount of seam allowance can vary
greatly according to:
(1) The position of the seam and how much stress
it has from body movement, e.g. an armhole and
sleeve head (minimum allowance 1 cm).
(2) The curvature of the seam influences the seam
width, e.g. the curved seam of a panelled bodice
requires a narrower seam where convex and concave
curves have to be joined together (maximum of 1cm).
(3) Enclosed seams require a narrow seam allowance,
e.g. the faced neck and armhole (maximum of 0.7 cm).

stitching line
seam allowance

(1)

(3)
(2)

(4) The type of machinery required for stitching


the seam influences the seam allowance width
e.g. a flat felled seam
Flat Felled Seam

(2)

(5) The type of fabric often


determines the width of the seam
allowance and how it is neatened e.g.:
- loosely woven fabric

Seam for loosely


woven fabric

Seams for sheer fabric

- sheer fabric
- thick fabric
- stretch fabric
(6) A wide seam allowance
Seam for thick fabric
Seam for stretch fabric
is required for inserting a zip fastener,
e.g. skirt placket (1.5 to 3.5cm).
Wide seam allowances, known
as inlays, are also required where
a garment is specifically constructed
for altering and letting out (1.5 to 3.5
Wide seam allowances
cm).

Hem allowance
The shape of the hemline influences the width of the hem allowance.
A straight hem lies flat when folded back so the hem can be quite wide.
Curved hems do not lie flat when folded back and therefore the hem
width has to be reduced.
The corners at each end of the hem also have to be considered
so that the turned up hem mirrors the intersecting seam.

Straight hem

Circular hem
Straight hem with
mirrored corners

References
MUSILOVA,B. KOMARKOVA,P. GLOMBIKOVA,V.Basic pattern block construction.
Liberec:TUL 2003, ISBN 80-7083-687-3
LINDSAY CARTER,J,E.HONEYMAN HEATH,B. Somatotyping: Development and
Applications . Cambridge University Press 1999, ISBN 0521351170
Aldrich, W. Metric Pattern Catting. Manchester: Blackwell Publishing 2003,
ISBN-1-4051-0278-0.
Winks,J,M.Clothing Sizes:International Standardization. The textile institut Manchester
1997,ISBN 1870812727
FAN,J.YU,W.HUNTER,L.Clothing appearance and fit:Science and
technology.Woodhead Publishing Ltd,Cambridge2004,ISBN1855737450
EBERLE,H. Clothing technology. Europa Lehrmittel Verlag 2008,
ISBN-13: 978- 3808562246

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