BASIC REQUIREMENTS OF SEWING THREAD

Sewing threads must be designed to meet two fundamental functional requirements:

1 Sewability of the thread: It is the ability of thread to produce a seam with minimum
number of breakages and least damage to the thread and the fabric during sewing
operation
2. Thread performance in seam: It is the ability of a sewing thread to produce the desired
functional serviceability in a desired seam. Ie. The thread must ensure satisfactory
performance in the seam. It can be determined very well from the Seam efficiency
Seam efficiency in dex (SEI) = Seam tensile strength x100
Fabric tensile strength

CHARACTERISTIC OF SEWING THREAD

therefore to meet the basic requirements of sewing thread and to be able to
withstand severe working condition, it shout posses certain important characteristic.
1. Tensile Strength/Breaking Strength
2. Initial modulus
3. Abrasion resistance
4. Frictional properties
5. Resistance to higher temperature
6. Evenness with negligible fault
7. Elongation
8. Shrinkage
9. Balanced structure
10. Colour fastness
MATERIAL USED: TYPES OF SEWING THREAD
1. Spun threads
i) Cotton threads
ii) Linen threads
iii) Silk threads
iv) Spun synthetic threads
v) Spun blended sewing threads
2. Core spun threads
3. Continuous filament threads
i) Monofilament threads
ii) Multifilament threads
iii) Textured threads
4. Embroidery threads
5. Technical threads
FIBERS USED
Varity of natural fibers used in the production of sewing threads, although some
have only limited uses. Cotton, polyester and polyamide fibers are most commonly used
for the production of sewing threads. Natural fibers and manufactured fibers are also used
in different field of application, but their characteristic are closely related to those of the
fiber used. Sewing thread fibers are available in dfferent forms, short staple, long staple
and filaments.
Synthetic fiber for sewing threads must have higher strength, low elongation and
low shrinkage fro better performance. Sewing threads also produced from blends of
polyester staple fiber and cotton, however, when different fibers used for blends, the
constituent fiber should have matching bulk and physical properties.
Cotton:
Cotton fiber used in the production of sewing threads are selected primarily on the
basis of strength. Since long staple cotton are generally stronger and finer, the
sewing thread industry normally uses the longest cotton available for the better
grades of the sewing threads, especially for the finer counts.
In adition to strength, length and fineness, other criteria are used in cotton
selection for sewing threads, such as length variability, nep-forming characteristic
and colour. The main varieties of cotton for good qualities of sewing threads are:
Egyptian, American, California cottons. Egyptian, American are always used for
high quality, fine sized threads, where their extra staple length and fineness
coupled with high strength, are required.
California cottons are used in the coarser thread industry, based on the application
requirement.
Linen and silk
Linen and silk are little used in sewing thread manufacture. So the main
classification is therefore into either synthetic or cotton fibers. Owing to high
elastic and lusture, sewing thread of natural silk is still of importance.
Silk is available both in filament and broken filaments that spun in to yarn
Linen fiber is still used little, especially for making strong and rather stiff threads,
but it ghhas been largely superseded by synthetic fiber threads
Synthetic threads
Because of their strength and high durability, synthetic fiber yarns are now widely
used in the manufacture of sewing thread. The most commonly used materials are
polyester and polyamide fibers, since these fibers are thermoplastic and subjected
to considerable change in their properties when heated either in processing or in
use.
The most of the synthetic fiber for sewing threads is polyester fiber; its tensile
properties and its freedom from discoloration on exposure to heat and light are
particularly valuable in clothing industry. The different elastic properties and heat
s4etting characteristic, of polyamide fibers are suited tom other uses, including
sewing of leather.
Viscose
Viscose fibers have not yet replaced cotton to any great extent in sewing threads
because of their low strength and abrasion resistance and low elasticity when wet,
but their great advantage is their high lusture for use in embroidery.

SEWING THREAD PRODUCTION METHOD

The manufacturing of sewing thread is much more complex then most clothing
technicians imagine. The thread has to be of much higher quality then a weaving or
knitting yarn and thus has to pass through more process, gradually refining the thread so
that it can be used without breakage in modern machine running at speed of up to 10000
SPI. The thread production methods vary depends upon the types of sewing thread. The
production method for cotton is longer than that for 100% synthetic staple-fiber threads.

1. Spun sewing threads
Spun sewing threads are made from staple fibers that are spun into single yarns
and then plied to make a sewing thread.

Cotton sewing thread preparation

Cotton sewing threads are manufactured in the same as the normal yarn upto
single yarn stage, where as plying, cabling onwards processes differ according to the
types of sewing thread and their end uses.
Single cotton yarns are mostly prepared on three types of spinning systems they are
1. Ring spinning
2. Rotor spinning
3. Air jet spinning

Flow chart for Cotton sewing threads production
2. Core spun synthetic threads
Core spun sewing thread is produced by spinning a cover of staple fiber around a
filament yarn and then combining these yarns into a threads construction. These threads
are offers the combination of advantages of both properties of staple sheath and filament
core. The studies show that sewability of core spun thread is comparative better. Core
spun yarn can be manufactured by different methods. In industry ring spinning and
friction spinning systems are more popular for producing core spun yarn.


Core spun sewing thread processing sequence


3. Continuous filament threads
These filaments are two types:
Monofilaments: each threads consists of only one single filament and it is produced by
usual filament spinning method.
Multifilaments: Each threads consists of many filaments.
In this method the continuous filaments are manufactured by
1. Wet spinning method
2. Dry spinning method
3. Melt spinning method
After producing the continuous mono and multi filament yarns, sewing threads are
produced in three forms depending upon their usage
1) Monofilament threads
2) Multifilament threads
3) Textured threads

Manufacturing sequence of filament sewing threads


Monofilament and multi filament sewing threads are produced from continuous
monofilament and multifilament yarns. But textured sewing thread is produced after
giving texturing treatment to the continuous filament.
Apart from the type of polymer from which it is produced and type of single yarn, the
quality of sewing thread mainly depends on the post spinning operation. Production
methods at the stage of post spinning depends on the type of single yarn and vary widely
based on the field of application.
4. Textured sewing thread
Texturising provides contionous filament yarn with textured surface which improves
cooling of the thread and subsequently reduces the risk of polymer fusing at very high
sewing speed with modern sewing machine. The rough surface of the texturised threads
restricts the movement of the seam. The process flow chart of manufacturing sewing
thread from the air jet textured yarns.

Polymer and polyamide filament air jet of false twist textured yarns are being used as
sewing threads. They are produced with low twist, so that the bulking characteristic of the
yarn are not destroyed. They are widely used in chain stitch and over lock seams for
producing action wear articles based on knitted fabrics. Twisting is done in conventional
manner same as spun yarn sewing threads for 2 or 3 fold construction. Textured sewing
threads are very soft and extensible due to crimp rigidity. Ideally suitable for knit wear
and swim wear. It gives excellent seam coverage.

PROPERTIES OF SEWING THREADS
1. Spun sewing threads
Fuzz on surface of the thread provides excellent lubricity
Able to sew on most types of equipment like lock stitch, chain stitch, over edge
etc
Least expensive
Greater seam strength and elasticity coupled with high elongation
Used for all kind of articles i.e ladies lingerie to leather garment
2. Core spun threads
Able to run in all type of sewing equipment
Able to work successfully on automatic multi directional sewing machine
Higher strength per size then spun thread
Fibrous surface due to fuzz on their surface results into soft hand, low friction
and good lubricity
Used for stitch heavy article like jeans to all verities
Commonly available as P/C and P/P blend form
P/C wrapped core spun thread provide good needle heat resistance
P/P provide good colour fastness, chemical resistance, excellent strength per
size and cheaper then P/C wrapped yarn
3. Continuous filament threads
1) Monofilament threads
Produced from a single 100% continuous filament
Cheaper in comparison to other thread types
Preferred in blind stitch operation on apparel and drapery and quilting
operation on bed spreads and quilts.
2) Multifilament threads
Provides excellent abrasion resistance
Exceptionally strong for their size resulting in excellent seam
durability
Better used for industrial sewing application like furniture, luggage,
sports goods and foot wear
Limited colour availability
Comparatively cheaper
4. Textured sewing thread
o It is an ideal thread for over edge, cover stitch and chain stitch machines
o Posses excellent seam coverage and seam elasticity due to high bulk
o High shine
o Less expensive in comparison to other threads

Applications
Sewing threads are widely used in clothing manufacture, outdoor application,
high temperature application, geo textile etc., they have several textile and non textile
application. Some 80% of all sewing threads produced are used by clothing industries.
The main classes of clothing requiring threads are
Class
Approximate percentage of all threads
produced
Dresses and blouses 13%
Shirts and nightwear 5%
Shirts, coats and other outer wears 28%
Under wears 16%
Knitwear
Work clothing
Sports wear
Other clothing accessories
21%
Household furninshing 8%
Upholstered furniture 2%
All other including luggage and leather
goods, book binding, canvas goods
7%

Staple fiber sewing threads
o Cotton General sewing, Dresses, shirts, rain wears, Jeans,
Overalls, etc.
o Linen Machine buttoning, hand buttoning, button hole gimp
o Polyester General seaming purpose, lingerie, shirts and knit wear,
decorative stitching
o Core spun threads (P/C) General stitching, lingerie, shirts, knitwear and
heavy industrial sewing
o Core spun threads (P/P)- General seaming
o Aramid fiber- flame retardant application
o Silk light seaming and decorative stitching

Continuous sewing thread

Silk Buttonholing and decorative stitching
Polyester sewing heavy stitching, general stitching, under threads, padding,
blind stitching,, quilting and fur industry.
Nylon knitwear and general sewing, leather good
Airjet textured polyester fiber - general stitching, jeans, upholstery, bedding
Monofilament suitable for blind stitching and overlocking only, general
seaming and general stitching.