Yeh Haseen Wadiyan, Yeh Khula Aasmaan

Conquering Shitidhar Peak in Himachal Pradesh

Deepti Pookat

Tring Tring
An innocent ‘yes’ to a call from Mayur, while I was in Mumbai, set the ground for the
latest and the best trip of my lifetime. He had called to ask if I was game for a trek in
Himachal. So smitten by the wander bug was I that after a quick math in my head about
the leave & the finances I said a ‘yes I am game’. All my way back to Bangalore I kept
checking out comfy resorts & home-stays & things to do & shop for in Manali. Reality
hit me when I got back to Bangalore and checked my mail. The trek mail train revealed
that this was not to be like all my other trekking trips where we did a one day trek and the
rest of the trip was spent as tourists. This trip was going to be different. We would be no
tourists but true trekkers. Our destination was Shitidhar peak in Kullu Valley at an
elevation of 17368ft above sea level. It would be a 3 day trek. The predicted night
temperatures were sub zero and I had about two weeks to prep up. All fastest means of
building stamina were considered. Finally, thanks to finding a jogging partner, I settled
for daily waking up early and heading out for Wind Tunnel road. The next two weeks I
jogged, climbed stairs, walked whenever possible, tried to tug my laptop along on those
walks to get used to weights and trust me this whole work out proved very very useful.

Day I & II: 11th & 12th Oct, 2005 – Acclimatizing to high altitude
On the 11th evening 3 enthused people (myself, Mayur & Ajit) set out from Bangalore on
a spice-jet plane, a four hour journey, where we were deprived of all the comforts of air
travel right down to the absence of my favorite travel magazine which I had come to
believe was a default on any flight. The only saving grace for Ajit (who had made the
travel reservations) was the fact that the flight was on time & actually arrived at
destination earlier than schedule. Headed towards Romi’s home where Achin & Nitin
joined us. After a quick reorganization of luggage we set out from Delhi in a Quails at
about 11pm. The others say that in the course of the 12 hour journey we had made about
5 pit stops for tea and due to a wrong turn had to travel through very bad roads. Much to
the others’ envy & my pride I slept through this entire journey like a baby with just one
break for breakfast.

We were received by our guides, Ranjan & Guptramji (to be referred to as GRJ from now
on) at Manali. It was a short drive from there to the ancient village of Vashisht, famous
for its hot sulphur springs and the breathtaking Jogini falls. That’s also where GRJs home
is. This is a typical Himachal home with many houses clustered together where one gets
to see apples, flowers & corn being dried on the rooftops in preparation for the cold
winters. We were treated to a sumptuous lunch in the carpeted area in their balcony on
the first floor. This was a dining room with a view, from where we could see the snow
capped mountains. This picture postcard backdrop was to be our home for the next three
days. After freshening up we set out on a short trek to Jogini (Yogini) falls, so that we
would get acclimatized to the high altitude. The falls originating from the Bhrighu Lake,
at an altitude of 19000ft, spill over a rock face and thunder down on to a small pool. You
can take a heady shower standing under these falls and watch the surrounding landscape
of thickly forested hillsides and snow clad mountains. The trek to the falls took us
through conifer forests. It was pretty steep and gave us a good idea of how tough things
would be once we had to carry our backpacks along. The waters were icy to touch but we
ventured to soak our feet all in the name of acclimatization. Achin had to employ the
power of ‘Laal Shaand’ or ‘Red bull’ to power himself up. After about 2 hours we got
back to GRJs home. The guys headed to the hot sulphur springs next to GRJs home for a
hot bath & soak in the tank while GRJ brought us the hot water to our rooms. After a
great dinner of chowmein we retired for the night to our rooms. We were given our
sleeping bags so that we would get used to them. We also reduced our baggage since the
evenings trek had made us realize that it would not be easy.

Day III: 13th Oct – Vashisht to Bakhartaj base camp via Dhundi

We set out from GRJs home to Dhundi by Qualis.

13th morning saw us rise and shine early. We set out from GRJs home to Dhundi by
Qualis. On our way we saw a whole batch of basic mountaineering course students
tugging along with their heavy bags and gear. Come Dhundi and for the first time we saw
that the mountains were at an arm’s distance now. Our food supplies, tents and sleeping
bags were loaded on ponies and this entourage would be accompanied by three cooks.
The eight of us (6 + Ranjan + GRJ) set out towards our base camp, Bakhartaj. Along the
trail few parts were really steep and we needed to take a break after every 10 steps. Lots
of narrow bridges crossed. There was a distinct change in scenery as we gained height.
Trees were replaced by shrub and later by grass. Where the snow capped mountains had
been a distant backdrop they were now all around us and every view looked worthy of
being captured and recorded.
Ranjan & GRJ told us that during winters the path we were treading would be covered
with about 3 metres of snow. We reached our base camp by about 3 in the evening. When
we were nearing the camp it snowed lightly. This camp was located in a valley with
mountains on all sides. It was located amidst boulders and shrubs. Seated on a high
boulder we lunched on yum parathas and delicious Himachal apples. Our guides set up
the tents. Once that was done 4 of us set out to a snow patch that was closest to us. As we
crossed the boulder ridge it started snowing more heavily and Ranjan decided that it
would be risky to continue since the rocks would get slippery. So we headed back to base
camp. This was the first time I saw snowfall (one of the many cherished Moments on the
trip). Since there were only few more hours of daylight left we had to pack our stuff for
the next day.

Solang to Dhundi

We decided to carry only one bag amongst us loaded with medicines, chocolates and
other paraphernalia (the guys call this unnecessary stuff). A camp fire was set and we
dined around it. It was a wonderful first time experience, under the stars and the moon,
with the sound of gurgling streams and snow capped mountains all around you – Wow!!
GRJ and Ranjan told us of their other expeditions and experiences and made us feel petty
about our desk jobs. After a heavy dinner we were sent to our tents by 6 in the evening
since the plan was to set out in the early hours if there would be no snowing in the night.
Our guides told us that they preferred a cloudy night rather than a clear sky since it would
become very cold without the clouds, and the water would freeze on the boulders and the
trail would be very slippery and risky to tread on. That night was the toughest. Firstly
going to bed as early as 7, secondly the temperature was surely below zero. No amount of
woolen wear could keep us warm and all of us struggled to catch some sleep. I for one
longed for the comforts of a warm blanket, a cozy bed and a pillow (things we take for
granted at home).

Day IV: 14th Oct - Summit

Fortunately or unfortunately the clouds did not come and Ranjan did not deem it fit to
trek in the dark. We were woken up by GRJ at 6 in the morning with piping hot tea. By
6.30 we were geared to go. Here is when I did my first & biggest mistake. I thought it
would be very cold at the peak going by the night before, so I wore the thick jacket that
Ranjan had carried along. Since the day before I did not find it very difficult I offered to
carry the common bag we had packed for the days trek. Myself, Achin & GRJ were the
last to set out. Due to the jacket I was finding it difficult to breathe and I got scared
thinking it was a bout of altitude sickness. GRJ insisted I take off the jacket and this put a
large distance between the 3 of us and the others. We then took off on a wrong track, a
very steep one and this took us farther away from the others. We then had to walk along
the side of the mountain and catch up with the others. The next part of the terrain was
huge boulders piled on top of a glacier. These boulders have taken the form of ridges and
so it meant ascend and descend. The guys found this part easy thanks to their long legs
but I really found it strenuous. Also the boulders were loosely fitting and hence it was
tough to find foot holds. Once this stretch was crossed it gave us our first view of the
Beas valley, a huge 2km diameter valley with snow clad mountains on all sides. After
another scary walk along the side of a mountain and we went down into the valley. From
here we could spot our destination, the Shitidhar peak in all its glory. On our way up we
treaded through a little bit of snow. Before we set out Ranjan told us that we would trek
till whatever height till 11.30 am and then we should start back since it would start
snowing in the afternoon. From there on it was 3 hours of continuous but discrete trek.
Each one came up with their own methods of conserving energy and continuing with the
climb. After one pit stop Achin decided that he would break there and wait for us to get
back. I cannot translate to words the experience of climbing, pushing yourself to your
limits, looking at the one ahead of you and trying to get there, taking 20 steps and then
trying to catch your breath, in between looking at the breathtaking peaks around you,
walking along a narrow ledge which slopes down on either sides to running water or
snow (this is the best I can translate). Finally at 11.30 am we reached about 15000ft
above sea level. Further up we could see the completely snow covered parts of the
mountain. Two foreigners who went ahead returned after a certain point since it was too
difficult to descend on the fresh snow. We took a break at our summit (we christened it
“Hum-idhar” coz we did not reach “Shitidhar”).
The next part of the terrain was huge boulders piled on top of a glacier.

Took a lot of pictures and started the tougher part of coming down. After the narrow
ledge I decided to slide down since that gave me better stability. That was perhaps the
tallest slippery slide I have ever been on. Since there was part snow and part wet grass it
was a fast descent. I chose the wrong descent path and found that I was on the next hill
with only kaalu (the shepherd dog) on my side. To get back on the right track I had to
slide down on a snow covered side and that was fun but scary since you cannot brake that
easily. Caught up with Achin and from there myself, Mayur and Ranjan headed towards
the green waters of the Beas Kundh. Ranjan said that these placid waters were dangerous
to swim in due to the cone like shape of the lake which had a centrifugal pull at the
centre. The waters were crystal clear but the lake had assumed a green colour. From here
we trekked to the centre of the valley where we were joined by the others who had
trekked down the other way. Had a quick lunch of bread, butter, jam and gulab jamuns
and washed hands and legs with the crystal clear icy waters from the stream nearby.

Then began the toughest part (for me). Those boulders and slippery slopes, and the fear
within made it tougher. Negotiated this part of the trek with a determination to get to the
base camp as fast as possible. GRJ kept me company and we reached the base ahead of
the others. It was about 4 in the evening by then. Once the others got back the camp fire
was set and we were given piping hot soup and dinner. This time we were all worn out
and the thought of another night in the cold was formidable. Once in the tents we took
nearly half an hour of getting prepared for sleep. I had nearly four layers of clothing over
me and this made any movement within the sleeping bag impossible. Inspite of being
tired sleep still eluded me and so had to pop a pill to fall asleep. That night was not as
cold as the previous one.

Day V: 15th Oct - Descent

Woke up in the morning, freshened up and started our descent from Bakhartaj. The last
session of clicking pictures in that beautiful abode of the Gods and we were homeward
bound. Ranjan kept reminding us that most accidents happened during the descent and he
could not have been further from the truth. We were crossing the river and I did the
mistake of placing my foot on the rock on which there was a layer of ice and lo I slid into
the waters (just when Achin mentioned that all but me, Mayur and Ajit had not fallen
yet). One of the gallant guys from the mountaineering group helped me out. Once more
along the way I slipped and sprained my ankle. Gera had a tough time due to his knees
but he kept on. Mayur was still not in his element, we figured he is not a high altitude
person. The return was more scary for me, especially the narrow bridges. This time we
walked the 7km stretch from Dhundi to Solang valley. Back at GRJs home, we went and
soaked ourselves in the steaming hot waters of the sulphur spring. It was rejuvenating and
healing to the aching and bruised muscles and bones. After a quick lunch we set out from
Vashisht. This part also like all downward bound journeys was scary since we always
were on that side of the road facing the mighty river and our daredevil driver Pradeep
preferred to drive at the edge. Unfortunately this time the evil eye (of the others) had hit
me and even I could not sleep until we hit the plains. Back to Delhi & Bangalore, we
have come with snapshots in our hearts that we will cherish forever.

Tips for the first timers

1. Work out on building your stamina at least two weeks before the trek so that you
can enjoy while you are on the trek
2. Trivial but nonetheless important, trim your toenails, It can make your descent
down the hills much less painful
3. Carry a good trekking bag, the kind that has enough straps to transfer the load
onto your hips. Pack only what is necessary
4. A good pair of UV protected glasses, sunscreen, basic first aid and medicines
5. Good trekking shoes with soft soles so that you have better grip
6. Always go along with local guides who know the terrain
7. Talk a lot with your guides and know more about the local culture and other
places where they have been to
8. Not for the weak hearted
9. If you are headed to the Himachal contact Ranjan at 9816467939 or 0177-2860337