LG TRAINING MANUAL

Spring 2009 Microwave Training

LMVM2085ST

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NOTICES AND WARNINGS

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTICE
The information in this training manual is intended for use by persons possessing an adequate background in electrical equipment, electronic devices, and mechanical systems. In any attempt to repair a major appliance, personal injury and property damage can result. The manufacturer or seller maintains no liability for the interpretation of this information, nor can it assume any liability in conjunction with its use. When servicing this product, under no circumstances should the original design be modified or altered without permission from LG Electronics. Unauthorized modifications will not only void the warranty, but may lead to property damage or user injury. If wires, screws, clips, straps, nuts, or washers used to complete a ground path are removed for service, they must be returned to their original positions and properly fastened.

CAUTION
To avoid personal injury, disconnect the power before servicing this product. If electrical power is required for diagnosis or test purposes, disconnect the power immediately after performing the necessary checks. Also be aware that many household appliances present a weight hazard. At least two people should be involved in the installation or servicing of such devices. Failure to consider the weight of an appliance could result in physical injury.

ESD NOTICE
Some of the electronics in appliances are electrostatic discharge (ESD) sensitive. ESD can weaken or damage the electronics in these appliances in a manner that renders them inoperative or reduces the time until their next failure. Connect an ESD wrist strap to a ground connection point or unpainted metal in the appliance. Alternatively, you can touch your finger repeatedly to a ground connection point or unpainted metal in the appliance. Before removing a replacement part from its package, touch the anti-static bag to a ground connection point or unpainted metal in the appliance. Handle the electronic control assembly by its edges only. When repackaging a failed electronic control assembly in an anti-static bag, observe these same precautions.

REGULATORY INFORMATION
This equipment has been tested and found to comply with the limits for a Class B digital device, pursuant to Part 15 of the FCC Rules. These limits are designed to provide reasonable protection against harmful interference when the equipment is operated in a residential installation. This equipment generates, uses, and can radiate radio frequency energy, and, if not installed and used in accordance with the instruction manual, may cause harmful interference to radio communications. However, there is no guarantee that interference will not occur in a particular installation. If this equipment does cause harmful interference to radio or television reception, which can be determined by turning the equipment off and on, the user is encouraged to try to correct the interference by one or more of the following measures: Reorient or relocate the receiving antenna; Increase the separation between the equipment and the receiver; Connect the equipment to an outlet on a different circuit than that to which the receiver is connected; or consult the dealer or an experienced radio/TV technician for help.

DISCLAIMER
The information in this training manual was accurate at the time of publication. Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy. Updates, changes, etc. as well as the latest editions are available via GCSC and LGCSAcademy.

COMPLIANCE
The responsible party for this devices compliance is LG Electronics Alabama, Inc., 201 James Record Road, Huntsville, AL, 35813.

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CONTENTS
Notices and Warnings Contents Introduction Specifications Troubleshooting Warnings Turntable and Tray Electrical Requirements Installation and Removal Maintenance Charcoal and Grease Filters Bulbs (Cavity and Cooktop) Cleaning Deodorization Rack and Supports Controls Power Levels Troubleshooting Schematic Key Matrix Basic Check Summary Test Procedures Microwave Leakage Microwave Power Microwave Power Alternate Method Troubleshooting Charts No Display or Dead Oven Keypad Failure No Heating or No Cooking Turntable Motor Does Not Work Oven Turns On By Itself Door Interlock System Repair Techniques (with the oven installed) Charcoal Filter Replacement Grease Filter Cleaning and Replacement Bulb (Cooking Cavity) Bulb (Stovetop) Door (including cable connections) Keypad (including Flat Plastic Connectors) Control Panel Stirrer Fan (and cover) 1 2 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 12 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 22 25 30 33 40 42 44 46 46 47 47 48 48 50 51

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Repair Techniques (with the oven removed) Outer Case Ventilation Fan (including direction / orientation) Magnetron Transformer Capacitor Diode (High Voltage) Latchboard Cooling Fan Air Duct Humidity Sensor TCO (Thermal Cutoff) Bottom Cover Turntable Motor Stirrer Motor Heater and Circulation Motor Final Test Component Test Procedures Keypad Transformer Magnetron Capacitor Diode Relay Cooling Fan Ventilation Fan Turntable Motor Stirrer Fan Motor Humidity Sensor Exploded Views Parts List Supplemental Information Model and Serial Number Interpretation Ohms Law and Watts Law Formulae Temperature Conversion Formulae Warranty

52 52 53 54 54 55 55 56 57 58 58 58 59 59 60 60 61 61 62 62 63 63 64 65 65 65 66 67 74 78 79 80 81

RC1 090210

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INTRODUCTION
The LMVM2085XX is a microwave oven designed to be mounted over a range or cooktop. It is available in white, black, and stainless steel. The controls are mounted on the bottom of the door to allow a larger cooking cavity. The turntable is replaced by a slide-and-glide rectangular tray that moves to the right and the left and allows a larger, rectangular cooking dish to be used. The oven also includes a rack for two-layer cooking. Since this manual is written for servicers, the oven will probably be installed and in service. There is a brief portion covering installation and removal to give the servicer insight to how the oven is installed and the logistics of service. Many repairs will require the oven be removed for service and re-installed after repair.

Always order parts by model number and serial number. (See page 78.) These numbers are on a sticker inside the door. The model number also indicates the color, which is critical to getting the correct parts for the door and cabinet. In the event there has been a running engineering change, the serial number will assist in getting the correct part if the before and after parts are not interchangeable.

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SPECIFICATIONS
Rated Power Consumption (Oven & vent fan & lights) Rated Current (Oven & vent fan & lights) Microwave Output Frequency Power Supply Safety Devices Magnetron Thermostat Oven Thermostat Fuse Magnetron Warming Heater Cooktop Lamp Cavity Lamp Timer Tray Dimensions (W x H x D) Oven Cavity Effective Capacity Accessories 1,700 W (max.) 14.5 Amps 1,100 W (IEC60705) 2,450 MHZ 50 MHZ 120 VAC 60 MHZ Open 145 C 5 C / Close 60 C 5 C Open 110 C 5 C / Close 0 C 5 C 20 Amps 2M282J (Toshiba) 120 VAC, 500 W 12 VAC, 20 W (Halogen) 125 VAC, 30 or 40 W (Incandescent) Digital, up to 99 minutes and 99 seconds in each cooking stage Tempered safety glass 29 15/16 x 16 7/16 x 15 3/8 inches 23 1/2 x 10 x 14 1/2 inches 2.0 cubic feet Owners Manual & Cooking Guide Installation Manual Exhaust Vent Adapter and Damper Mounting Kit and Hardware Charcoal and Grease Filters Rotating Ring and Glass Tray Metal Rack and Defrost Plate

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TROUBLESHOOTING WARNINGS
Never operate the oven with the door open. Always plug the oven in to a 3-prong, 120 VAC outlet on a grounded and dedicated 20-amp circuit. The outlet must be installed in the cabinet above the oven. (See page 8.) If no such outlet is available, contact a licensed electrician. Never operate the microwave oven when it is empty; that is, no food load in it. Avoid using aluminum foil. If used with caution, foil may be used to shield certain small pieces of food, such as chicken wing tips, etc. To test the operation of the oven after a repair, follow the procedure on page 20 to perform the basic safety check. Always perform a microwave leakage test at this time for safety. The high voltage circuit of this oven produces over 4,000 volts. Use extreme caution when working on an energized oven. Always check to see that the magnetron gasket is properly installed.

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1 2

Round glass tray Rotating ring

Glass tray

Turntable drive arm

The turntable is a multi-part arrangement that includes a round glass tray that rotates and a rectangular glass tray that moves laterally at the same time. Smaller dishes sit on the round tray while they rotate and move laterally; larger dishes sit on the rectangular tray and move laterally. Follow these steps to install the turntable components and to ensure they function correctly.

1. Install the turntable drive arm and position it securely on the drive cam.

2. Install the rectangular plastic tray and ensure it slides properly.

3. Place the rotating ring on top of the rectangular tray.

4. Be sure the drive arm can rotate in the hollow area on the bottom of the rectangular tray.

Place the round glass tray on top of the rotating ring. Put a cup of water on the turntable and operate the oven for a minute to ensure that the tray mechanism is seated properly and works as it should. There should be rotation on the turntable AND lateral motion involving the rectangular tray.

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ELECTRICAL REQUIREMENTS
The LMVM2085xx is equipped with a 3-prong, grounded cord. It must be plugged in to a single-outlet, dedicated circuit supplying 120 VAC 60 HZ, with a capacity of at least 20 amps. An outlet meeting these requirements must be installed in the cabinet above the oven. If there is not such an outlet available, we recommend having one installed by a qualified and licensed electrician.

This appliance must be grounded. Do not, under any circumstances, cut or remove the ground prong from the plug. Do not defeat the ground prong by using an adapter. Do not replace a 2-wire outlet with a 3-wire outlet unless the ground is properly connected. Never install a fuse or circuit breaker in a ground or neutral line. An overloaded circuit can cause problems with the microwave oven, including slow cooking, poor operation, tripped circuit breakers, damage to the components of the oven, and other issues. Several components may have live voltage on them even when the oven is in stand-by mode (plugged in but turned off). This enables the timer, cooktop lights, and ventilation fan to be used even when not cooking. Always unplug the microwave before servicing the oven or replacing parts, including light bulbs. When working with the high voltage section, be sure to discharge the capacitor before proceeding.

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INSTALLATION and REMOVAL

Since this manual is intended for servicers, the oven will likely be installed and in service. A summary of the installation procedure is presented for reference. Removal is the reverse of installation. An instructional video presentation of an over-the-range oven installation is available online via LGCSAcademy.com. This video is general in nature but the principles of installation are the same for all models, even if the physical appearance varies. If the oven must be un-installed for servicing, the bracket can be left in place on the wall. Remove the two screws in the top of the cabinet and the holding pin, lower the front of the oven, and lift it off the tabs on the bracket. Replacement is the reverse of these steps. Place the back of the oven on the tabs. Raise the front of the oven and insert the holding pin. Insert the two screws and attach the oven to the cabinet. You can adjust the level of the oven very slightly (left-to-right and front-to-back) by loosening or tightening these screws.

The oven is shipped from the factory with the ventilation fan set for recirculating into the kitchen, so the damper assembly is not necessary unless the vent is directed through the roof or the wall behind the microwave. If this is a replacement oven, it may not be necessary to replace the wall bracket if the previous oven was also manufactured by LG because the brackets, while of three different designs, are universal replacements for one another.

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MAINTENANCE
The LMVM2085xx requires relatively little maintenance. Other than general cleaning, the customer can replace light bulbs and charcoal filters and wash grease filters. CHARCOAL FILTER The charcoal filter is located in the top of the oven. To replace it, remove the two screws holding the top grille in place and lift off the grille. This can be done with the oven installed. The charcoal filter is not washable and should be replaced every six to twelve months.

GREASE FILTER The grease filter is on the bottom of the oven. Push it slightly backward and let the front edge fall out of the slot. Pull the front edge forward and remove the filter. Wash the filter in the sink in hot, soapy water, spray it with hot, clean water to rinse, and let it air dry in the dish rack. We do not recommend washing the grease filter in a dishwasher because the detergents used generally cause discoloration, oxidation, and deterioration.

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BULB (interior) The bulb for the cooking cavity can be replaced without uninstalling the oven. Unplug the oven before changing the bulb. Remove the top grille, as described above, and remove the charcoal filter. Remove the screw that holds the light covers in place. Lift the left, then the right socket assembly out of its place. Replace the bulb. Removal may be difficult because the bulb is held in place with a drop of silicone (unnecessary for replacement.) Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. The bulbs are 30- or 40-watt candelabra-base bulbs.

BULB (stovetop) The bulbs for the cooktop lights can be replaced without uninstalling the oven. Unplug the oven before changing the bulb. Remove the screws that hold the light cover. Pull the cover down to allow access to the bulb. Pull the bulb out and replace it. Replace the cover and screw.

The cooktop bulbs are halogen bulbs. We recommend not touching the bulbs with fingers, but using a clean cloth or paper towel to handle the bulb.

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If the bulbs are of the anchored filament style, be sure to install the bulb so the filament is suspended from the anchor. The anchor must be placed toward the top of the oven.

CLEANING No detergents or cleansers should be necessary for cleaning the oven. We recommend unplugging the oven to clean to avoid the possibility of electric shock and to avoid operating the oven or damaging the control panel by pressing many buttons simultaneously. Use a damp cloth to clean both inside and outside. If food is baked onto the inside surface of the oven, put a heatproof glass measuring cup containing 2 cups of water in the oven and run it on high until it boils for approximately 5 minutes. The steam will soften the deposits, allowing them to be wiped off with a damp cloth. Be careful to avoid a steam burn. Also watch the cup to ensure it does not boil dry. DEODORIZATION If something is burned in the oven and the odor lingers, cut a lemon into 6 or 8 wedges. Put them into a 2-cup heatproof glass measuring cup, fill the cup with water, and run the oven on high until it boils for approximately 3 minutes. This will resolve almost any odor issue. Be careful to avoid burning the lemons, because nothing will remove that odor. RACK AND SUPPORTS The cooking rack is designed to be properly secured in the plastic clips on the sides of the oven. It must NOT be set in the bottom of the oven or allowed to contact the oven sides. If food is spilled onto the support clips, they can be cleaned with a small brush (like a toothbrush) after the oven has been steamed, as mentioned above in the section on cleaning. If arcing occurs at the rack support points, discontinue use and inspect for damage. If the rack is not in use, store it someplace other than in the oven.

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CONTROLS
CONTROLS The control panel is built into the bottom of the oven door. The door, and consequently, the control panel, can be removed, repaired, and replaced without uninstalling the oven. See the section on DOOR REPAIRS on pages 48 ~ 49.

FEATURES The LMVM2085ST has all the usual features of an over-the-range microwave oven as well as an extra-large cooking cavity, a rack for two-level cooking, a lateral motion (sideto-side) cooking tray, a defrosting tray, special buttons for softening and melting, sensor cook cycles, 11 microwave power levels, and a 5-speed vent fan with timer option.

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POWER LEVELS Eleven power levels are available, from 0% to 100% in 10% increments. The magnetron output is not adjustable; that is, it is either on or off. To achieve lower power levels, a relay is used to cycle the magnetron on and off. A magnetron warm-up period of two seconds is included in each ON cycle.
Power Level Warm-up Time On Time Off Time

0% 10% 20% 30% 40% 50% 60% 70% 80% 90% 100%

2 sec. 2 sec. 2 sec. 2 sec. 2 sec. 2 sec. 2 sec. 2 sec. 2 sec.

magnetron is off 2 sec. 4 sec. 6 sec. 8 sec. 10 sec. 12 sec. 14 sec. 16 sec. 18 sec. magnetron is on

18 sec. 16 sec. 14 sec. 12 sec. 10 sec. 8 sec. 6 sec. 4 sec. 2 sec.

Lower power levels can be used to thaw frozen items and to soften butter or margarine. Intermediate power levels are used to cook foods more delicately that using high power. 0% power can be used to insert standing time between two cook cycles, such as between defrosting and cooking, to allow the food to stand and completely defrost before beginning the cooking process.

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TROUBLESHOOTING
Troubleshooting the oven is relatively simple and straightforward. The first thing to check is the power supply. Use a meter to ensure the outlet is live at 120 VAC. If the oven still appears to be dead, unplug it and check the fuse. If the fuse blows when the door is opened or closed, check the three switches on the latch board. (See pages 44 ~ 45.) In the event the fuse is blown by improper switch operation and adjustment does not resolve the issue, replace all three switches with new ones and verify the connections. If the fuse blows when START is pressed, check the magnetron, high voltage transformer, diode, and capacitor. It may be possible to remove the fuse through a hole in the front panel instead of uninstalling the oven and removing the top case. We recommend against it because it is difficult at best, and it is usually necessary to remove the outer case to diagnose the fault and repair the oven. Use a meter to check the fuse after the fuse is removed from the circuit. If the oven runs but does not heat, check the magnetron, high voltage transformer, diode, and capacitor. Most oven components can be isolated from their circuits and tested. The test procedures are outlined in a later section of this manual. The turntable (including a lateral-motion tray) motor is attached with by two screws. If the motor becomes misaligned because distortion of the slot, base, or mounting, it generally causes the turntable to move erratically or not at all. In most cases, the bottom of the oven can be straightened to allow proper alignment, which will allow the turntable and tray to operate smoothly.

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KEY MATRIX

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BASIC CHECK SUMMARY

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TEST PROCEDURES
MICROWAVE LEAKAGE If the oven is operational, it should be checked for microwave leakage before servicing begins. The standard for microwave emission is 5 mW/cm2. LGs voluntary standard is much lower at 1 mW/cm2. A microwave leakage test MUST be performed after the oven is serviced for any reason. Test for microwave emission using the following procedure. Equipment: microwave survey meter, such as a Holaday HI-1500 or HI-1501 or a Narda 8100 or 8200 non-conductive, 600 cc beaker (glass or plastic) approximately 3 inches (900 mm) in diameter glass thermometer 32 F to 212 F (0 C to 100 C) in 1 graduations

Procedure: Pour 27515 cc of water into the beaker Verify the temperature to be 68 F 9 F (20 C 5 C) Set the leakage meter to 2,450 MHz Use the 2-inch (5 cm) spacer Operate the oven at high (maximum) output Check for microwave emissions by holding the probe perpendicular (a 90 angle) to the surface and scanning less than 1 inch (2.5 cm) per second in the area shown in the diagram.

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MICROWAVE POWER Magnetron output and microwave power tend to deteriorate with age. To determine whether an ovens output is within specification, use the following formula and procedure. FORMULA

P = 4.187 Mw (T2-T1) + 0.55 Mc (T2-T0) t

P Mw Mc T0 T1 T2 t = = = = = = = microwave power output in watts mass of the water, in grams mass of the container, in grams ambient temperature, in C initial temperature of the water, in C final temperature of the water, in C heating time, in seconds, excluding the magnetron filament warm-up time After inspecting or servicing the magnetron, ensure the gasket is properly installed around the dome of the tube.

Always check for microwave leakage following the procedure on pages 19 ~ 22 any time you repair the oven or adjust the door.

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TEST PROCEDURE Measure microwave power output with the oven operating at rated voltage with a load of 1,000 g 5 g potable water. The water should be contained within a cylindrical borosilicate glass vessel having a maximum material thickness of 1/8 (3 mm) and an outside diameter of 75/8 (190 mm). The oven and empty container should be at ambient temperature (T0) prior to the start of the test. The initial temperature (T1) of the water must be 50 F (10 C 1C) and should be measured immediately before being transferred to the test container. Upon addition of the water, the test vessel should be placed in the center of the turntable and the test begun. The time (t) for the temperature of the water to rise by a value T of (10 C 1 C) is measured, where t is the time in seconds and T is the temperature rise. The microwave power output P in watts is calculated using the formula above. Magnetron filament warm-up time is not included, but amounts to approximately 3 seconds. The water should be stirred with a glass rod at the end of the test to equalize the temperature immediately before measuring. Glass containers, thermometers, and stirring rods are selected to minimize the addition, loss, or transfer of heat.

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MICROWAVE POWER - ALTERNATE METHOD Several methods have been used to measure the output of microwave ovens over the past years. In order to assure accuracy and consistency among the testers the following method is recommended. The procedure is to measure and record the average Celsius temperature rise of 2 liters of water cooking on High Power for 2 minutes. Then multiply the temperature rise by 70 to determine the power output. REQUIREMENTS Microwave Power Output testing requires the ability of the technician to measure water temperature in degrees Celsius (C), to have two (2) one-liter plastic measuring beakers, and a voltmeter that is capable of measuring 120 VAC with 1 volt accuracy. EQUIPMENT Celsius thermometer Two 1-Liter Plastic Beakers (Plastic does not absorb heat energy like glass!) AC Voltmeter TEST PROCEDURE 1. Fill both of the 1-liter beakers to the 1000 ml (1 Liter) measuring line. 2. Stir the water and determine that the tap water is cooler than 25 C; record the temperature. 3. If the temperatures differ, add the 2 numbers and divide by 2 to get an average. 4. Place the 2 beakers side-by-side in the microwave making sure that the beakers are as near the center as possible. If a shelf or rack is used, place the rack at a level that will center the beakers in the oven cavity and place the beakers on the rack. 5. Set the microwave oven for HIGH (highest or 100%) power level and set the cook time for 2 minutes. Press the START button and heat the water for 2 minutes. 6. After heating for 2 minutes, immediately remove the beakers, stir the water with the thermometer, and record the water temperature of both beakers. NOTE: The average temperature rise of the water in the two beakers must be determined, because of possible uneven power distribution within the oven cavity. This could affect the ending temperatures of both beakers water. If the water temperature in the 2 beakers differs, add the two Celsius numbers and divide by 2 to get the average ending temperature.

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Example: Starting Average Temperature of the 2 beakers Ending Temperature of the 1st beaker Ending Temperature of the 2nd beaker 1st Beaker 2nd Beaker Total 36.5 C 32.5 C 69.0 C = 20.0 C = 36.5 C = 32.5 C

Average the sum by dividing by 2 69 2 = 34.5 average temperature Subtract the starting Temperature: - 20 starting temperature 14.5 temperature rise 7. To determine the power output multiply the temperature rise by 70. Example: 70 x 14.5 = 1015 watts 8. The output power of a microwave oven is greatly affected by the voltage under load of the AC power supply. Measure the voltage under load at the wall receptacle where the oven is powered and operating. The following chart shows the percentages of full power that are within limits at voltages from 108 VAC to 132 VAC.

125% 120% 115% % POWER OUTPUT 110% 105% 100% 95% 90% 85% 80% 75% 70% LOW LIMIT NOMINAL HIGH LIMIT

108 110 112 114 116 118 120 122 124 126 128 130 132 SUPPLY VOLTAGE

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NOTE: Power output measurements should never be made on microwave ovens operating on less than 108 VAC. Below this point the power output drops sharply in an unpredictable manner. Likewise, operating an oven at voltages greater than 132 VAC should be avoided as damage to components may occur due to excessive electrical pressure. Example: A 1,000 watt oven operated at 114 VAC would be within limits at any point between 85% and 112% of the rated power. 85% of 1000 = 850 watts 112% of 1000 = 1120 watts Therefore, the oven would be nominal (normal) if the output power was between 850 watts to 1120 watts. RESULTS and CORRECTIONS When the power output measured falls outside the nominal (normal) range on the chart, take the following steps: 1. Verify operation or rotation of the waveguide stirrer. 2. Disconnect power, discharge the high voltage capacitor, and check the high voltage transformer. a. A layer short circuit of the high voltage transformer may cause a low power output. b. If burned places are found in the high voltage transformer and a smell of burning insulation is sensed, replace the high voltage transformer. 3. If no other parts are defective and line voltage under a load is within tolerance, replace the magnetron and retest!

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TROUBLESHOOTING
Many circuits and components can be checked with little or no disassembly of the oven. Generally, the component must be disconnected and isolated from the circuit. The oven should always be unplugged and the high voltage capacitor discharged. NO DISPLAY or DEAD OVEN Verify that power is reaching the main board. There should be 120 VAC between terminals 1 and 3 (black and white wires) on the power PCB.

If no power is present, check the fuse, noise filter, oven thermostat (thermal cutoff or TCO,) and magnetron thermostat, in that order. Then follow the troubleshooting guides on subsequent pages.

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KEYPAD FAILURE
Verify that only the START or EZ-ON buttons work when the door is closed.

See the keypad matrix chart on page 17 and the pinout information on page 61 to assist in checking the keypad for errors.

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NO HEATING / NO COOKING

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TURNTABLE MOTOR DOES NOT WORK

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OVEN TURNS ON BY ITSELF

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DOOR INTERLOCK SYSTEM

The door latch system involves three switches to ensure that it is impossible for the oven to run with the door open. Checking the latch board switch array requires dismounting the oven and removing the case. If the board requires adjustment, loosen the screws attaching it to the frame of the oven and reposition it so the gaps at the latch hooks are less than 1 /64, as shown below. Tighten the screws to secure the latch board.

Close the door and check that the gaps are less that 1/64, as shown.

Adjust the door so the spaces are even at every point around the seal.

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Test the continuity of the switches with the door both opened and closed. Youll have to disconnect the switches from the circuit to do this.
Switch Mode Primary Secondary Monitor

Conditions Door Open Door Closed

COM NO OPEN CLOSE

COM NO OPEN CLOSE

COM NC CLOSE OPEN

Anytime the oven is serviced, you should perform a microwave leakage test.

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REPAIR TECHNIQUES
(with the oven installed)

Always unplug the oven to work on it, including changing bulbs and filters! CHARCOAL FILTER The charcoal filter is located in the top of the oven. To replace it, remove the two screws holding the top grille in place and lift off the grille. This can be done with the oven installed. The charcoal filter is not washable and should be replaced every six to twelve months.

GREASE FILTER The grease filter is on the bottom of the oven. Push it slightly backward and let the front edge fall out of the slot. Pull the front edge forward and remove the filter. Wash the filter in the sink in hot, soapy water, spray it with hot, clean water to rinse, and let it air dry in the dish rack. We do not recommend washing the grease filter in a dishwasher because the detergents used generally cause discoloration.

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BULB (interior) The bulb for the cooking cavity can be replaced without uninstalling the oven. Unplug the oven before changing the bulb. Remove the top grille, as described above, and remove the charcoal filter. Remove the screw that holds the light covers in place. Lift the left, then the right socket assembly out of its place. Replace the bulb. Removal may be difficult because the bulb is held in place with a drop of silicone (unnecessary for replacement.) Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. The bulbs are 30- or 40-watt candelabra-base bulbs.

BULB (stovetop) The bulbs for the cooktop lights can be replaced without uninstalling the oven. Unplug the oven before changing the bulb. Remove the screws that hold the light cover. Pull the cover down to allow access to the bulb. Pull the bulb out and replace it. Replace the cover and screw.

The bulb is a halogen bulb. We recommend not touching the bulb with fingers, but using a clean cloth or paper towel to handle the bulb.

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Be sure to install the bulb so the filament is suspended from the anchor. The anchor must be placed toward the top of the oven.

DOOR (including cable connections) The door can be removed to allow replacement or to facilitate working on the controls. Remove the grille as described above. Unplug the ribbon cables at the top left corner of the door. Open the door to full extension and lift it off the hinge pins. Lay it face down on a padded surface to disassemble it to work on the interior controls.

KEYPAD The door must be disassembled to repair or replace the keypad or control board. Remove the grille and door, as described above. Carefully remove the choke cover by pushing back the tabs and lifting it out. Be careful to avoid bending the plastic tabs and cracking the choke cover. It is not necessary to remove the door handle to disassemble the door.

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With the choke cover removed, remove the four screws (see photo) that hold the PC Board in place. Lift the release ring on the ribbon cable connector. Carefully remove the ribbon cable by lifting it off the hooks that pass through the two holes in the connector.

After the ribbon is removed, slide the board toward the hinges to remove it from its holder. Reassembly is the reverse of these steps. When replacing the door, adjust it so the spaces are even at all points around the seal.

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CONTROL PANEL It is not necessary to dismount the oven to service the control panel. Remove the two screws that secure the vent grille. Roll the top down slightly in the front as you pull it away from the oven and lift the hooks out of the mounting holes. Then remove the screws securing the top of the control panel and lift the panel away from the oven. Unplug all the connectors on the main board. They are keyed and color-coded to prevent connection errors. Separate the FPC (Flat Plastic Connectors) and ribbon cables. See page 49 for instructions. Remove the three screws holding the PCB to the control panel.

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STIRRER FAN (and cover) The stirrer fan can be serviced with the oven installed only if the problem involves the blade or the cover. Use a knife blade to remove the plastic rivet that holds the plastic cover in place. It may be possible to remove the keeper with the rivet. Order a new rivet and keeper, because the original keeper will remain inside the microwave oven. If the oven is disassembled, the original keeper can probably be retained and reused. Twist the cover to the left, let it down, and take it out, being careful to avoid damaging the stirrer fan. Remove the rivet that holds the stirrer fan assembly to the roof of the oven. These rivets are similar to the one that holds the fan cover, but they are not interchangeable. The removal and replacement procedure is the same. Install the fan and then replace the cover by inserting the tabs into the slots and twisting it back into place. Insert the rivet and keeper into the fan bracket, and then press the rivet into place. Be sure the fan bracket is firmly attached to the roof of the oven before replacing the cover and rivet.

If you have disassembled the oven and can see the top of the cavity, you might notice that the holes at the top of the oven (where the light shines through) are covered with plastic film. One side is clear and the other side is violet-red. The purpose of this is to color-correct the light in the cavity to give the proper appearance of food so it is easier to determine the degree of doneness.

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REPAIR TECHNIQUES
(with the oven removed)

Remove the glass tray, rotating ring, and roller support before uninstalling the oven to prevent breakage. OUTER CASE If the oven has to be taken down for service, the outer case will probably have to be removed as well. The bottom of the case can be removed without having to take off the outer case. To remove the outer case, remove the screw and clamp holding the power cord in place. Remove the screws around the back of the case. Slide the case backward free of the edge clips. The cord can be disconnected inside the case and pulled through the opening in the case after the retainer is removed. When reinstalling the outer case, be sure the edge clips all fit correctly around the front of the cabinet to prevent bulging and assembly issues.

VENTILATION FAN (including direction/orientation) The ventilation fan can be replaced without removing the outer case. Remove the screw holding the top plate and the screw holding the fan to the back of the oven. Slide the top plate from its position. Lift the fan out of the oven. Unplug the 6-pin connector and remove the fan.
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When replacing the fan assembly, be sure to replace it facing the right direction. The oven can be vented out the front, the top, or the back by changing the direction in which the fan exhausts. The fan can be tested by following the procedure on page 65. Ventilation Fan Cover Fan Assembly Removed

MAGNETRON You can test the magnetron without removing it as described on page 62. To service the magnetron, unplug the connector. Remove the air deflector attached to the side of the magnetron with one screw. Remove the four screws holding the magnetron to the wave guide. It is heavy, so use caution. Take out three screws, then hold the magnetron in place and remove the fourth screw. Be sure to avoid striking the antenna on the wave guide opening. If the magnetron is damaged, it will have to be replaced. If the wave guide is damaged, the oven will have to be scrapped as unrepairable.

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TRANSFORMER Discharge the capacitor before attempting to disconnect the leads of the transformer. (See below.) The transformer can be replaced by removing four screws from the base. Unplug all the wires attached to the transformer. The transformer can be tested before removal following the procedure on pages 61 ~ 62.

CAPACITOR Always short the capacitor to discharge it before working on it or disconnecting the wires. The high voltage capacitor is held to the base by a band clamp. Unplug the wires, making a note of which wire is connected to which connector. Remove the screw to release the clamp. Generally, the diode and the capacitor are replaced at the same time. The capacitor can be tested following the procedure on page 62 ~ 63.

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DIODE The diode is connected between the capacitor and chassis ground. The diode can be tested before removal following the procedure on page 63. Removal and replacement involve removing the screw that attaches the ring connector to ground.

LATCHBOARD The latchboard includes the three safety switches and is critical to the operation of the oven. The individual switches are available, or the unit can be replaced as an assembly. Generally speaking, if there is a problem involving the safety switches, LG recommends replacing the entire assembly, including the latchboard, door lever, and all three switches. If the switches function correctly but the oven fails to operate properly, it is usually a sign of an alignment issue. Alignment issues are generally caused by repeated slamming of the oven door. The latchboard alignment can sometimes be adjusted by loosening the two screws that hold the latchboard in place and repositioning it. The two screws shown allow adjustment and removal of the latchboard assembly.

WH BR YL BL GN

WHITE BROWN YELLOW BLUE GREEN

BK BLACK RD RED PK PINK GY GRAY NP Not Provided

The wiring color code for the latch board is shown in the table.

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Checking the alignment is most easily accomplished with a round wire feeler gauge, similar to those used to check the gap on a spark plug. With the door closed, there should be a gap of no more that 1 /64th inch (0.5 mm), as shown in the drawing.

LG recommends the use of a round wire feeler gauge because it is easier to get a more accurate reading and easier to use than a flat gauge. COOLING FAN The cooling fan is mounted at an angle to blow air over the magnetron and transformer. The airstream is then directed through the cooking cavity, across the humidity sensor, and exhausted through the left section of the grille. This airstream is separate from the ventilation fan, which evacuates steam and cooking vapors from the stovetop and exhausts via an external vent or the charcoal filter.

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The cooling fan can be tested without being removed from the oven. See test procedure on page 64. The center tap of the cooling fan provides 21 VAC for the stirrer fan motor.

AIR DUCT The air duct is attached to the top of the oven. It channels the air handled by the ventilation fan and keeps it (and grease, steam, and contaminants) separate from the air used to cool the magnetron. To remove the air duct, remove the 4 screws and lift it away from the oven. Youll have to remove a few wires and connectors if you take it very far. Otherwise, move it just far enough to accomplish your task.

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HUMIDITY SENSOR The humidity sensor can be replaced without removing the air duct. Remove the screw that attaches the ground wire to the sensor. Lift the sensor from under the retaining tab.

The humidity sensor can be tested without removing it from the oven following the procedure on page 66. TCO There are two thermal cut-offs (TCO) on the oven. One is located in the top of the oven in the air duct. This TCO is designed to turn the oven off in the event the oven overheats, usually from a cooking fire. The other TCO is attached to the magnetron. The two TCOs are not interchangeable because they are of different temperature ratings. (See specifications, page 5.) BOTTOM COVER The bottom cover must be removed to service the turntable motor. Remove the screws along the bottom edges and remove the bottom plate. The bottom plate can be removed without removing the outer case or dismounting the oven. Unplug the light connector and set the bottom plate aside.

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TURNTABLE MOTOR Disconnect the wires at the turntable motor, making a note of which one goes to which terminal. Remove the screws that hold the motor to the oven and pull it out of the slot. Be certain to replace the braided gasket carefully to prevent microwave leakage.

STIRRER MOTOR The stirrer fan runs on approximately 21 VAC derived from the center tap on the cooling fan motor. Therefore, if the oven is operating, the fan will run. If the cooling fan fails or is not powered by the main board, the stirrer fan also fails to operate.

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HEATER and CIRCULATION MOTOR The heater has its own circulation motor. Disconnect the electrical leads and remove the four screws from inside the oven cavity. Lift the entire assembly

FINAL TEST Always complete a microwave leakage test after any repair is completed.

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COMPONENT TEST PROCEDURES

KEYPAD After disassembling the door, the keypad can be tested. Disconnect the end of the ribbon cable and determine which is pin 1. Using an ohm meter, connect to pins 1 and 8. The resistance should be greater than 1 M. Press the 1 button and the resistance should drop to 400 . Every key can be tested in this manner using the chart below. Key Matrix Ribbon Cable

When reconnecting the ribbon cable, be certain the polarity is correct, the hooks are properly engaged in the holes, and the connector top is pressed into place. TRANSFORMER The transformer can be tested in place after disconnecting all wires. It has four windings: primary low, primary high, secondary, and filament. Measure the resistances with an ohm meter, as described in the table below. (See drawing, next page.) Primary winding Primary winding Secondary winding Filament winding Primary to ground Filament to ground Filament to ground (A and B) (A and C) (D and G) (E and F) (A and ground) (E and ground) (F and ground) 0.2 ~ 0.5 0.2 ~ 0.5 50 ~ 120 0 (infinity) (infinity) (infinity) (Rx1) (Rx1) (Rx1) (Rx1) (Rx1000) (Rx1000) (Rx1000)

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MAGNETRON The magnetron can be tested without removing it from the oven. Unplug the connector and measure the resistance with an ohm meter. Filament terminal to filament terminal Filament terminal to ground >1 (infinity) (Rx1) (Rx1000)

A magnetron can test good electrically and have little or no output because of a cracked magnet. Remove the four screws holding the magnetron to the wave guide. Be careful to avoid dropping the magnetron when the screws release it. Inspect the magnets and the antenna cover. If the antenna is damaged, pitted, or rusted, it must be replaced. Be sure to inspect the wave guide to ensure there is no internal damage. If the wave guide is damaged, the microwave oven is not repairable and must be scrapped. CAPACITOR CAUTION! Be sure to discharge the capacitor before attempting to disconnect it or measure by connecting to its terminals!

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The capacitor can be tested without removing it from the oven, but the oven must be dismounted and the outer case removed. Discharge it and remove the wires from the connectors, making a note of which wire goes where. Set the ohmmeter to R x1000. Measure from terminal to terminal. The meter should read several ohms at first and move toward infinity. Measure from either terminal to the capacitors case. The meter should read infinity.

DIODE CAUTION! Be sure to discharge the capacitor before attempting to disconnect it or testing the diode! The diode can be tested without removing it if it is disconnected from the capacitor. The diode must be checked in both directions. Set the ohm meter to Rx1000. The diode should show continuity when checked in the forward direction. Reverse the connection and the meter should show infinity. Set the meter for VOLTSDC and connect the diode in series with a 9-volt battery. Test in both directions. The diode should pass current in one direction but not the other. The simplest solution is to replace it with a known good diode.

RELAY The relay turns the magnetron on for cooking, and switches it on and off to allow the oven to have multiple power levels. To test the relay, remove the lead wires and connect an ohm meter set on the Rx1 scale. (See photo, page 50.) Operate the oven at the various power levels to determine the relay is working correctly. See the chart in the section POWER LEVELS on page 14.
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Use extreme caution when testing the oven with the case open. Pull the connector off the relay. Attach the ohm meter clips to the relay terminals. Unplug the magnetron. Run the oven for 2 minutes at 50% power. The relay should cycle on and off approximately every 11 seconds. The ohm meter should indicate when the relay opens and closes. If the relay is defective, the PC Board will have to be replaced.

FAN (cooling) The cooling fan runs when the oven is on and draws ambient air across the magnetron to cool it and through the cooking cavity to carry moisture to the humidity sensor. The center tap provides approximately 21 VAC to the stirrer fan motor. The cooling fan can be tested without removing it from the oven. Disconnect the wires and read the resistance with the ohm meter set at Rx1.

Resistance between terminals A and C should be 35 ~ 50 . Resistance between terminals A and B should be 5 ~ 15 .

The blade must be removed from the shaft and refitted to the new motor. Be certain the blade is installed facing the correct direction (flat surface toward the motor) so the air flows properly. Remove the motor by removing the screws that bolt it to the mount. The blade is pressed on and off the shaft.

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VENTILATION FAN The ventilation fan can be removed and replaced without removing the outer case of the oven. This procedure is covered in the section on VENTILATION FAN on page 53. Test the fan by checking the resistance between the various terminals. If the resistance is greater than indicated on the table, the fan is defective and must be replaced. Black and Red Black and Blue Black and Yellow TURNTABLE MOTOR Remove the bottom plate of the oven to access the turntable motor. It can be tested by reading the resistance across the terminals. Normal is 2 ~ 3 K. Any reading outside this range indicates a defective motor. TURNTABLE STIRRER FAN 20 ~ 40 20 ~ 40 20 ~ 40 (Rx1) (Rx1) (Rx1)

HALF-ROUND SHAFT

SQUARE SHAFT

The turntable and stirrer fan motors look similar but are not interchangeable. The differences include rotation speed and shaft shape, length, and size. STIRRER FAN MOTOR The stirrer fan motor is mounted on the top of the cooking cavity. It can be tested by reading the resistance across the terminals. Normal is 2 ~ 3 K. Any reading outside this range indicates a defective motor. The colored plastic shield color-corrects the lamp, making it easier to determine the degree of doneness of the food.
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HUMIDITY SENSOR The humidity sensor can be tested without removing it from the oven. Unplug the threewire connector to the sensor at the circuit board end. Set your ohmmeter to R x1000. The resistance should be as indicated on the table, within 10%. Infinite resistance or a dead short indicates a sensor failure. 1 ~ 2 (Black ~ Red) 2 ~ 3 (Red ~ White) 1 ~ 3 (Black ~ White) 6.0 k 10% 3.0 k 10% 3.0 k 10%

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EXPLODED VIEW
DOOR PARTS NOTE: The cosmetic parts of the door and front panel will differ by color code, but the internal parts are the same for all colors.

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EXPLODED VIEW
CONTROLLER PARTS

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EXPLODED VIEW
OVEN CAVITY PARTS

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EXPLODED VIEW
LATCHBOARD PARTS

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EXPLODED VIEW
INTERIOR PARTS

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EXPLODED VIEW
INTERIOR PARTS

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EXPLODED VIEW
INSTALLATION PARTS

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PARTS LIST
Loc No. Part No ST (STAINLESS) Description

1000 3213W0A003D 1002 3536W1A006D 1002 3536WRA001T 1004 3552W0A001B 1005 ADC37132503 1006 4026W2A015A 1007 4970WRA001G 1008 MKC42269901 1009 MEB42441401 1011 MAE42444201 1381 AGM52169103 2004 ACM37143303 2006 EBR42858802 2008 MAZ42443901 2009 EBR42859402 2041 EAD37950907 2381 AGM52169503 3001 3112W0F013G 3002 3390W1A033A 3004 4051W3A001A 3005 4931W3A004E 3007 4974W1A043B 3009 6549W1S018C 3010 4960W1A008A 3018 5026W1A052B 3024 MDX42394502 3026 5230W2A004A 3026 5230W2A004B 3027 6549W1V006J 3029 4810W3G062A 3031 3550W3A084A 3032 3034W2A003B 3033 3034W2A002B 3036 4930W1A026A 3045 6912W3H001D 3384 383EW1A132D

Frame assembly, door (Choke) Tape, sealing (Inner door) Tape, sealing (Inner door) Cover, choke Door assembly Locker mechanism Spring Window, glass Handle, door Baffle Parts assembly (Outer door & keypad) Controller assembly, keypad PCB assembly, main Bracket, control panel PCB assembly, power Harness, single Parts assembly (Control panel cover) Case, flat (Outer case) Tray, glass (Turntable) Holder (Rivet, stirrer fan cover) Lamp wire and connector, base Guide, air Motor, AC synchronous, turntable Plate (Fan cover) Shelf (Cooking rack) Grille, vent Filter, grease Filter, grease Motor, AC ventilation Bracket, mounting (X2) Cover, power cord Reflector (Cooktop lamp, left) Reflector (Cooktop lamp, right) Holder, cook auxiliary (Rack clip) (X4) Lamp, halogen (X4) Parts Assembly (Tray, rotator arm, and ring)

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PARTS LIST, continued

Loc No. Part No ST (STAINLESS) Description

4000 4001 4002 4003 4004 5000 5000 5001 5001 5002 5003 5006 5007 5008 5008 5008 5009 5010 5010 5010 5011 5012 5014 5015 5015 5016 5018 5018 5019 5021 5023 5024 5032 5036 5037 5038 5038

3500W1A013A 3501W1A016M 3B73362F 3B73361E 4510W4A005A 0CZZW1H003H 0CZZW1H004B 3B74133H 3B74133K 4810WRC002A 4974W1A035A MCZ42444001 5900W1A027B 6170W1D100A 6170W1D100B 6170W1D100C 6324W1A001E 6411W1A014T 6411W1A014X 6411W2A002N 6501W1A013A 6549W1F009H EAD48846701 6912W3Q001A 6912W3Q001D 6930W1A003R 6021W3B001M 6021W3B001Q EAD37950908 6322W2A001F 6930W1A003K 5901W1A005B EAD39307501 3550W2L001A 5230W1A003A 6804W2A001A 6804W2A001B

Holder, locker (Latchboard, no parts) Holder Assembly, Locker (Latchboard assembly) Switch, micro Switch, micro Lever Capacitor, high voltage Capacitor, high voltage Fuse, time delay Fuse, time delay Bracket, capacitor Guide, suction Duct Fan, cooling Transformer, high voltage Transformer, high voltage Transformer, high voltage Magnetron Power cord assembly Power cord assembly Power cord assembly Sensor assembly Motor, AC fan, cooling Harness, single Lamp, incand., 30 W, candelabra base (X2) Lamp, incand., 30 W, candelabra base (X2) Thermostat Cable, assembly (HV Diode and lead) Cable, assembly (HV Diode and lead) Harness, single Thermistor, NTC Thermostat Stir fan assembly Harness, single Cover, lamp (Cavity light, left) Filter, charcoal Socket, lamp (X2) Socket, lamp (X2)

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PARTS LIST, continued

Loc No. Part No ST (STAINLESS) Description

5041 5043 5044 5045 5046 5049 5051 5058 5069 5071 5145 5400 5401 5402 5403 5404 5405 5407 5412 5441 5512 5707 6000 6001 6008 6009 6009 6010 6011
Not Shown

MBM2 MBM4 MBM5 MEZ1 MFL1 MFL3

6201W2A018A 4930W1A076A 3550W1A292A MAZ42587401 6201W2A019A 4974W1A037A 3301W1A045C 5900W1A026A 6549W1S002G MAL42585301 MAZ42588101 3505W1A005F 3504W1A008B 5290W1A015A 5300W1S024D EAU44357001 4810W1A350A 5900W1A005A 0CZZW1M001C 3504W1A009C 4810W1N022A 6010W2L003D 3302W0A038B 3303W1A059F 3301W0A003A 2B72771G 3861W1A043C 3B72144A 3B71432A 3890W2Y267R MBM47142501 4922W1A027A 4922W5A060A 3850W1D134B MFL37191404 3828W5U0492

Filter, AC line Holder, stirrer fan Cover, stirrer fan Cover, lamp (Cavity light, right) Filter assembly Guide, air Plate assembly Fan Motor, AC synchronous (Stirrer fan) Barrier Bracket, lamp Chamber assembly (Warming element) Chamber Insulator Heater, sheath Motor, AC circulation Bracket, heater Fan Capacitor, film, box Chamber Bracket, heater Transformer, power Plate, base (No parts) Plate assembly,base (All parts) Plate assembly Kit assembly (Mounting bracket) Kit assembly (Installation hardware) Bracket, idle Damper Box Card, technical (Tech sheet) Card, template (Upper) Card, template (Lower) Label, cooking guide Manual, owners Manual, installation

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PARTS LIST, continued

Loc No. Part No ST (STAINLESS) Description

W101 W102 W105 W108 W109 W109 W110 W124 W127 W130 W136 W138 W142 W144 W149 W150 W150 W157 W177 W244 W246 W247 W248

1SBF0402418 4B70188C 1TPL0402418 1TTL0402418 1TTL0402818 1TTL0402818 1TTL0403818 1WSD0400032 1WSD0500018 1TPL0402618 1TPL0302418 1TPL0302417 1TTL0402816 1TTL0402618 1TTL0402622 1TPL0302618 1TPL0302618 1TPL0303018 4B71028B 1MTC0502616 1NHB0400032 1NZZW1A004C 1WZZW3Z006A

Screw, self-tapping Screw, custom (Latchboard mount) Screw, self-tapping (Stirrer fan) Screw, self-tapping Screw, self-tapping Screw, self-tapping (Back cover) Screw, self-tapping Washer, common Washer, common Screw, self-tapping (Control board) Screw, self-tapping Screw, self-tapping (Black, outer case) Screw, self-tapping Screw, self-tapping Screw, self-tapping (Cavity light socket) Screw, self-tapping (Cooktop light cover) Screw, self-tapping (Sensor) Screw, self-tapping (Bottom plate) Nut, common, 4 mm Screw, machine Nut, common, 4 mm Nut, customized (Cooling fan) Pin, common (E-clip, stirrer fan)

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MODEL AND SERIAL NUMBERS

[Example] 801KW3400251

801

KW 34

00251 Production Number [Internal code]

Made in Korea Manufactured January 2008

Newer Style With Barcode

New Serial Code (ETA Mid 2008)

12345 KR 406 YP 000002 + Options Sequential number Internal code Year and month of production (YMM) Production site (2 Letters) Model ID

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OHMS LAW and WATTS LAW P = WATTS

2

Watts = Volts / Ohms Watts = Amperes2 x Ohms Watts = Volts x Amperes

I = AMPERES

Amperes = Volts / Ohms Amperes = Watts / Volts Amperes =

I R
2

EI E/R P I
CURRENT OHMS

P/E P/R P/I E /P

2 2

E /R
2

WATTS VOLTS

P R P/I

E R

IR E/I
E = VOLTS
Volts = Volts = Watts / Amperes Volts = Amperes x Ohms

R = OHMS

Ohms = Volts / Amperes Ohms = Volts2 / Watts Ohms = Watts / Amperes2

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CONVERSION INFORMATION
FORMULAE

F = (9/5) C + 32 C = (5/9) x (F 32)

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WARRANTY

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NOTES

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