T
HEPE
RF
E
CTPE
ACH
Masu_9781607743279_xp_all_r1.indd 2
1/30/13 2:37 PM
Recipes and Stories from
the Masumoto Family Farm
perfect peach
the
Marcy, Nikiko & David Mas Masumoto
photography by Staci Valentine
TEN SPEED PRESS
Berkeley
Masu_9781607743279_xp_all_r1.indd 3
1/30/13 2:37 PM
Masu_9781607743279_xp_all_r1.indd 4
1/30/13 2:37 PM
Contents
Foreword by Rick Bayless vi
Introduction: Dating a Peach 1
chapter one
A Peach Primer ~ 7
chapter two
Thirst and Sweat
Beverages and Stories about Work ~ 23
chapter three
At the Table
Savory Dishes and Family Farming ~ 43
chapter four
Sweet Dreams
Sweet Dishes and Peach Pleasure ~ 87
chapter five
Harvest Memories
Preserves and Legacy ~ 131
Acknowledgments 156
Index 159
Measurement Conversion Charts 163
About the Authors 166
Masu_9781607743279_xp_all_r1.indd 5
1/30/13 2:37 PM
Masu_9781607743279_xp_all_r1.indd 80
1/30/13 2:38 PM
Slow-Cooked Pork Tacos
serves 4 to 6
As a farmer, seasonal cooking implies not only the type of things I cook but also the
constraints on how I cook. During the summer, the heat dictates when we can work. We tend
to work in two shifts, one in the early morning until we can no longer bear the sun, and then
a second shift when the temperature breaks in the evening. We try to wring every drop of
sunlight out of the day, which doesnt leave much time for cooking dinner. A slow cooker has
been the perfect answer to my dual loves of farming and cooking. This dish is also perfect
for parties or large dinners that require setup and preparation of other dishes. We like
eating these tacos with a fresh salsa (like the Peach and Nectarine Salsa, page 67) and Peach
Margaritas (page 41).
1 tablespoon canola oil
(2 1 / 2-pound)
1
roast
boneless pork shoulder
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When
the oil is hot, add the pork and cook for 2 to 3 minutes on each
side, until browned. Transfer the pork to a slow cooker.
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 yellow onion, sliced
Add the cumin, onion, and garlic to the same skillet off the
3 cloves garlic, minced
heat and warm, stirring occasionally, for 2 to 3 minutes, until
1/4
cup water
1 to 2 chipotle chiles in adobo sauce,
or 1 tablespoon red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon salt
1 (12-ounce) bottle beer (I like to use
Pacifico or Negra Modelo)
fragrant. Pour the water into the skillet to loosen any spices
or browned bits stuck to the pan bottom. Pour the contents of
the skillet over the meat.
Add the chile(s), oregano, salt, beer, and peaches to the slow
cooker, cover, and cook on high for 4 hours or on low for 6 to
8 hours. The meat is done when it easily falls apart with the
4 firm to soft peaches, peeled, halved,
and pitted
gentle tug of a fork. Carefully shred the meat with two forks.
8 to 12 small corn tortillas, warmed,
for serving
the refrigerator for pork soup stock or other use.
11/2 to 2 cups thinly sliced cabbage
To assemble each taco, layer 2 tortillas on top of each other
and place about 1/4 cup of the meat in a mound on the
2 limes, cut into wedges
Peach and Nectarine Salsa
(page 67), for serving (optional)
Discard the juices, onions, and peaches or cool and store in
tortillas, extending it across the middle. Add a little cabbage,
a scoop of salsa, and a squeeze of lime juice. Serve warm.
Masu_9781607743279_xp_all_r1.indd 81
At the Table: Savory Dishes and family Farming
81
1/30/13 2:38 PM
Masu_9781607743279_xp_all_r1.indd 34
1/30/13 2:37 PM
Summer Sangria
serves 6
When peaches are in season, we use them every way we can. The beauty of sangria is that
if you have peaches, you can use them in several formsslices, nectar, brandyor not! You do
not need to start with expensive wine. You just want something that will provide a solid base
for the combination of flavors. I personally like a drier white like a Sauvignon Blanc for this
recipe. The secret to good sangria is to make it in the morning or the day before, so that the
fruit has enough time to soak and meld with the other flavors. This adult beverage is a great
way to enjoy the best of summer with family or friends, especially as the sun sets.
1/2
orange, sliced
Place the orange, lemon, and lime slices in the bottom of a
1/2
lemon, sliced
large pitcher and mash gently with a long wooden spoon to
release some of the juice. Add the orange and lemon juices,
1 lime, sliced
1/2
orange
Juice of
Juice of 1/2 lemon
wine, simple syrup, and brandy and stir gently to mix. Add the
peach slices and berries. Cover and refrigerate for up to 1 day
1 (750-ml) bottle white wine (such as
Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot
Grigio, or Chardonnay)
so flavors meld.
1/2
the glasses, and serve.
cup simple syrup or peach nectar
(see page 36)
Pour into tall glasses or wineglasses, spooning the fruit into
1/4 cup brandy or Peach-Infused Brandy
(page 39)
1 peach with give, halved, pitted, and
thinly sliced
1/2 cup berries (such as raspberries,
boysenberries, or sliced strawberries)
Masu_9781607743279_xp_all_r1.indd 35
Thirst and Sweat: Beverages and Stories about Work
35
1/30/13 2:37 PM
Masu_9781607743279_xp_all_r1.indd 105
1/30/13 2:38 PM
Orange-Peach Phyllo Cups
makes 6
As noted in the introduction to Walnut-Peach Strudel (page 100), packages of phyllo sheets
are usually found in the frozen-food section of supermarkets, and any unused sheets can be
refrozen for months or saved in the refrigerator for three weeks. Last winter, I was looking for
a way to use some extra phyllo dough I had in the freezer at the same time that I had oranges
from our backyard tree. So, in essence, my practical and frugal nature is what birthed this
recipe. I hope you enjoy the combination of orange, peach, yogurt, and phyllo as much as we do.
11/2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
and cooled
Preheat the oven to 350F. With a pastry brush, lightly butter
deep, or 6 cups in a standard muffin pan, alternating holes to
to 6 sheets phyllo dough (depending
on the size in your package), thawed
according to package directions, and
cut into 6 (6-inch) squares
1 cup peeled and sliced fresh peaches
(1/2-inch thick), or frozen (page 148)
1 to 2 oranges, peeled and sectioned
to make 1 cup, reserving any juice,
the peels, and any pulp
2 tablespoons Peach Jam (page 137)
1 (3-inch) cinnamon stick
1 (3-inch) piece vanilla bean
6 tablespoons vanilla yogurt
Fresh mint leaves, for garnish
6 ramekins, each 3 inches in diameter and 1 to 11/2 inches
allow room for the phyllo squares to drape over the edges and
not touch one another. Set the buttered molds aside.
If you have not worked with phyllo, you will discover that
you will need to work quickly and delicately because it is
extremely thin and tears easily. Unwrap the thawed dough,
place it on a sheet of plastic wrap, and cover it with a damp
towel to keep it from drying out. As you remove each sheet
from the stack, be sure to re-cover the remainder to prevent
drying.
Lay a sheet of parchment paper slightly larger than a phyllo
sheet (the dimensions are usually on the box) on a work
surface. Lay 1 sheet of phyllo on the parchment. With a
pastry brush, lightly coat the phyllo with the butter, being
careful to brush all the way to the edges to ensure they dont
dry out. Lay a second sheet of phyllo over the first, and brush
with melted butter. Cut the stacked sheets into squares each
measuring roughly 6 by 6 inches.
{continued}
Masu_9781607743279_xp_all_r1.indd 103
Sweet Dreams: Sweet Dishes and Peach Pleasure
103
1/30/13 2:38 PM
{continued from page 103}
Working quickly so that the dough does not dry out, crack,
or tear, center the stacked squares buttered sides up over a
buttered ramekin or muffin-pan cup, gently push the center
down into the hole to form a cup shape, and leave the edges of
the dough draped over the rim in a free-form manner. Repeat
with the remaining phyllo sheets until you have lined all
6 molds.
If you are using ramekins, place them on a baking sheet for
ease of moving them in and out of the oven. Bake the phyllo
cups for 8 to 12 minutes, until golden throughout. Remove
from oven and set aside to cool. I have noticed that the phyllo
cups in the muffin pan bake much faster than those in the
ramekins.
While the phyllo cups are baking, place the peach slices and
orange sections and any reserved juice in a saucepan, then
squeeze the reserved orange peels and pulp to release any
additional juice into the pan. Add the jam and cinnamon
stick, then slit the vanilla bean lengthwise to expose the seeds
and add to the pan as well. Place over medium heat and bring
to a boil, stirring gently until the jam liquefies and being
careful not to break up the orange sections. Reduce the heat to
medium-low and cook the fruits for 2 to 3 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, remove the fruits from the syrup and
place in a small bowl to cool. Do not remove the cinnamon
stick and vanilla bean yet. Continue cooking the syrup over
medium-low heat for 5 to 10 minutes, until the syrup reduces
by one-half. Remove the syrup from the heat and let cool.
Remove the cinnamon stick and vanilla bean.
To serve, carefully remove the cooled phyllo cups from their
molds and put them on individual dessert plates. Put 1 tablespoon of the yogurt in the bottom of each cup. Layer the cooled
peaches and oranges on top of the yogurt, dividing them
evenly. Top the fruit in each cup with 11/2 teaspoons of the
syrup. Garnish with the mint and serve.
104
the Perfect Peach
Masu_9781607743279_xp_all_r1.indd 104
1/30/13 2:38 PM
Copyright 2013 by MarcyMasumoto, Nikiko Masumoto, and David Mas Masumoto
Photographs copyright 2013 by Staci Valentine
Foreword copyright 2013 by Rick Bayless
All rights reserved.
Published in the United States by
Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the
Crown Publishing Group, a division
of Random House, Inc., New York.
www.crownpublishing.com
www.tenspeed.com
Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed
Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.
Masu_9781607743279_xp_all_r1.indd 168
Hardcover ISBN 978-1-60774-327-9
eBook ISBN 978-1-60774-328-6
Design by Toni Tajima
Food styling by Karen Shinto
Food stylist assisting by
Vicky Woollard
Photography team: Douglas Axtell,
Ethan Sharkey, Amber McKee
Prop styling by Amy Paliwoda
Printed in China
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Library of Congress
Cataloging-in-Publication Data is on
file with the publisher
First Edition
1/30/13 2:38 PM
T
HEPE
RF
E
CTPE
ACH