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Fabric Manipulation Gen

This document discusses several fabric manipulation techniques: 1) Devoré/burn out printing involves printing a chemical paste onto fabric, then heating it to burn away the printed areas and leave transparent or sheer sections. 2) Seersucker/crepon printing uses caustic soda to shrink and crimp untreated cotton fabric areas, creating a textured surface. 3) Flock printing adheres paper-backed velvet to fabric using a water-based adhesive to create raised patterned areas. 4) Foil printing adheres metallic foil to fabric using a water-based adhesive to embellish selected areas.

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Prateek Maggo
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218 views1 page

Fabric Manipulation Gen

This document discusses several fabric manipulation techniques: 1) Devoré/burn out printing involves printing a chemical paste onto fabric, then heating it to burn away the printed areas and leave transparent or sheer sections. 2) Seersucker/crepon printing uses caustic soda to shrink and crimp untreated cotton fabric areas, creating a textured surface. 3) Flock printing adheres paper-backed velvet to fabric using a water-based adhesive to create raised patterned areas. 4) Foil printing adheres metallic foil to fabric using a water-based adhesive to embellish selected areas.

Uploaded by

Prateek Maggo
Copyright
© Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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FABRIC MANIPULATION TECHNIQUES:

DEVOR`E / BURN OUT PRINTING:


This is a process whereby a mixed fibre fabric is firstly printed or treated with a paste formula containing a chemical agent. After printing, the treated fabric (usually cellulose based) is then ironed or heat pressed which in turn activates the burning process and destroys the printed areas of the fabric. The non printed or non treated areas remain intact whilst the printed (burnt areas) are washed away leaving behind a fabric which now has open/transparent or sheer areas of fabric in those previously printed or treated areas. During this process it is the weft (those fibres which run widthways i.e. from selvedge to selvedge) that are destroyed and it is the warp (those fibres which run parallel to the selvedge which remain intact). Prior to washing the burnt out areas of the fabric should ideally be light brown in colour, it is important not to over burn the fabric other wise this could result in significant staining of the finishes cloth. Fibre mixes commonly used for this process include Polyester/Cotton, Polyester/Viscose and Silk/Viscose.

SEERSUCKER/CREPON OR CRIMP:
This style much used in the past in a variety of ways and still commonly practiced is based on the action of strong caustic soda on fine cottons such as lawns and voiles. The fabric has to be 100% Cotton and lightweight. The cloth is first treated or printed with a formula containing caustic soda and a thickening agent. The caustic shrinks the fibres, cockling or crimping the untreated areas of the cloth and is most effective when applied to at least 50% of the surface area of the fabric.

FLOCK PRINTING:
Areas of cloth , paper or plywood can be printed with a water based adhesive resin which after drying has a paper backed viscose velvet flocked through heat contact onto the surface of the substrate. This will result in raised flocked areas of pattern successfully transferred onto the chosen surface.

FOIL PRINTING:
In this process areas of the cloth, paper or card are printed with a water based adhesive and the subsequent pattern or imagery is then created by ironing or heat pressing metallic foil papers and fixing over the dried printed areas. A range of metallic finishes (gold and silver the most commonly seen) can be applied quickly and effectively to embellish and enhance selected areas.

BONDING TECHNIQUES:
Highly effective results can be achieved by bonding various fabric types onto pre stretched Cotton/Lycras and Jerseys. A simple process which involves firstly stretching a Cotton/ Lycra as taut as possible onto a flat print bed. The fabric is stretch pinned to a backing cloth and is then printed with a water based adhesive incorporating a geometric or similar style pattern. After drying another fabric of differing or even similar type (lightweight silks are excellent) is placed over the printed area. It is then heat pressed to the printed surface with a very hot iron. When adequately fixed the pins are then removed from the stretch fabric. The end result is a highly impressive quilting effect which has now radically altered the surface, appearance and handle of the finished piece. Similar effects can be achieved using Bonda Web which is an adhesive backed paper web, designed for use as a means of appliquing one fabric surface onto another. In order to achieve this, simple cut out shapes of fabric can be directly bonded and heat fixed onto stretch fabrics producing similar finished effects.

EXPANTEX/PUFF BINDER/3D PRINTING:


Areas of cloth, mostly natural fibres are printed with water based plasticised ink often known as Puff Binder or Expantex. The paste dries as a flat print very similar to pigment or opaque but expands readily when placed into contact with indirect heat. This process again creates interesting surface effects and also can have a radical effect on look and handle of the cloth. The use of fine silks and cottons will result in more exaggerated manipulation of the fabric surface. This can also be a very useful way of creating embossed effects on the non printed side of the cloth.

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