Garment analysis and specification development
Garment Analysis & Measurement (Ch. 5)
Garment analysis is to meet particular business needs:
Consider cost a garment and quality. Strategic plan for product lines.
Garment analysis guide:
7 aspects of garment analysis (see Figure 5-1, p. 127):
1. 2. 3.
ADM4307 Apparel Manufacturing By S. H. Shin, Ph.D.
4. 5. 6. 7.
Style description Positioning strategy Sizing and fit Materials selection Components assembly Final assembly and finishing Style presentation
Style Description (Part 1)
The purpose:
Identification and development of a complete description of a style.
Positioning Strategy (Part 2)
The purpose:
Foundation for garment analysis.
Style specifications are being developed:
Line adoption has taken place. Assigned a style number, the key identifier of the garment. Determine body types and size ranges for the style. To communicate identity of the style using specifications include brand, style number, merchandise group, selling period, body types and size ranges, etc. See Example 5-1 pp. 134~135
Factors:
Example: F E l Functional/ A th ti priorities ti l/ Aesthetic i iti Factors are useful in describing products purpose and styling. To position a product to make it desirable for a particular target market.
What is the primary requirement?
See each factor description p.136~138.
Sizing and Fit (Part 3)
Size is labeled in a manner that allows customers to find the right size. Sizing standards
To offer consistency in fit among styles, product lines, and seasonal offerings.
Sizing and Fit (Part 3)
Fit indicators:
Fit is how a garment conforms to or differs from the body. Garment cut. Labels identify the body type that the garment was designed to fit.
Example: Petite, Long, regular, short, etc.
Sizing systems Si ing s stems and si e ranges size
Sizing systems = Sizing standards For apparel sizing, body types are classified by body proportions as related to age and gender. Examples: See Figure 5-3, p. 139.
Fit observation of a garment on body form g y
Silhouette
Conforms to body shape. (Example: Stretch fabric)
Limiting fit points
Collar length, shoulder width, waist band length, or hip line.
Fullness
Controlled by darts, tucks, pleats, gathers, and seam shape. For comfort and freedom of body movement
Indicators of size:
General body size (S, M, L, XL) Numbers (Size 6, 12, 18)
Numbers do not indicate the actual garment dimensions. Misses 8, 10, 12/ Junior 7, 9, 11.
Industry sizing standards
Example: The Apparel Design and Production Hand book (1998) Fashiondex. Inconsistent sizing systems (see Table 5-2, p. 144).
Materials selection (Part 4)
Materials = Fabrics and Findings:
Findings: all the rest of materials required to complete garments
Support/shaping materials, trims, labels, threads, etc. pp p g , , , ,
Garment Analysis
Part 1 style description Part 2 positioning strategy Part 3 sizing and fit Measure garments from ADM 4307 Blue packet
Criteria for analysis of materials
Material name, content, yarn type and size, fabrication, count, weight, drapability, structural design, color application, finishes, care, method of application. See Example 5-4, p. 148.
MacKay Moderate-priced young mens dress shirts
Mac1472f SP 06 15Neck/33Sleeve
Mac1472f
Describe !! Young men Describe !! Describe !!
Neck size 14 to 16, Sleeve 32 to 36
Draw Flats
Draw Flats
14-17
32-36
Describe !!
Next class.