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Crich Tors

This document provides information about new bouldering problems discovered at Crich Tors, including a collection of high-quality problems on the main roof ranging from grade 6b to 7b+. It summarizes the location, access, parking options, and describes over 15 individual bouldering problems across the main roof area and nearby blocks, highlighting some of the hardest and most notable problems such as Levitation 45 grade 6c, Highrider grade 7b+, and Elephant Hawk Moth grade 7a. Safety tips are also provided regarding pads, ropes, and avoiding attention from local residents.

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1K views

Crich Tors

This document provides information about new bouldering problems discovered at Crich Tors, including a collection of high-quality problems on the main roof ranging from grade 6b to 7b+. It summarizes the location, access, parking options, and describes over 15 individual bouldering problems across the main roof area and nearby blocks, highlighting some of the hardest and most notable problems such as Levitation 45 grade 6c, Highrider grade 7b+, and Elephant Hawk Moth grade 7a. Safety tips are also provided regarding pads, ropes, and avoiding attention from local residents.

Uploaded by

api-302173014
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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CRICH TORS

Crich Almighty
Crich Tors was dismissed by previous guidebook writers as a neglected and overgrown trad venue and
its bouldering potential remained hidden. All this changed with exploration by the usual suspects early
in 2015. This has resulted in the development of collection of superb highball problems on the brilliantly
featured main roof and some minor additions on good rock to the fringes. Another new, high quality
bouldering destination to get your teeth into

Bowmans Buttress

Wind Singer 6a

Access
There are no known access problems but the crag has seen
little action for a long time and it seems that the quarry
section might have been appropriated as an extended back
garden. As with all less travelled venues take great care not
to attract attention.
You will be climbing to the soundscape of the local housing
below the crag. Remember that if you can hear the locals
then they can hear you just as easily. (As you cry for help
after pulling over the roof!)

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Approach
There are two options. Either park in Crich and take the
footpath opposite the Fire Station to Chadwick Nick. At the
fourth stile carefully step over the fence drop down to the
main roof area SK 349537. Alternatively park carefully near
the bend at Chadwick Nick SK346565, walk 100m towards
Bullbridge and take a path on the left to Crich. Drop down
right as above at the third field boundary. The second
option makes a combined visit to Chasecliffe possible.

This lovely block is found by walking 60m to the left of the


main roof at the same level. Its worth a visit and could be
tagged on to a Chasecliffe session if the main roof highballs
are not your thing.
1. Sirene 4+
The short wall and upper juggy overlap above a sloping
landing is best as an extension finish to the next problem.
2. Wind Singer 6a
The left arte on its left side from a sit start making use of
the nipple features.
3. Fire Song 6b+
The right hand side of the left arte.
4. Wind on Fire 6b+
Pull directly over the overlap on the nipples and creases,
excellent but slightly eliminate as the crack in the right arte
is in reach.
5. Bowman 4
The right arte on its left hand side. This is the 5a layback
arte as mentioned in BMC guide.

Conditions
The problems are all sheltered and get any sun going on a winter morning. Bowmans is reliably clean but
the nipples are delicate, please treat them with care. The main roof area suffers from run off down the
slab to the lip and dries out in spring. The crucial lip holds will need a clean. Take a rope and harness and
give things a brush before launching out over the roof. It might be useful to leave a rope in place as an
escape plan once established over the roof unless the top slab/cracks are clean and you are happy to
switch to soloing mode.

Cracks Area

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The area of cracks and narrow roofs to the left of the main roof.
6. Mr Bump Start 6a
The very short prow at the very far left of the main crag, just right of the descent. From sitting, clamp feet to
start - no foot block, and slap up the prow. Fun but not what you came to Crich for!
7. Levitation 45 6c
The first of Crichs classic highballs. From the crack traverse the lip of the prow rightwards and make a hard
rock over by the right arte to get established over the lip. Move up and slightly left until you can reach the
crack and then climb up at Severe or down climb the crack.
8. Somnium 6c
The roof direct into the finish of Levitation 45.
9. The Crack 2 6a
The crack separating the two prows is trickier than it looks.
10. Metaphysical Hand 6c+
The narrow prow approached from holds on its left side.

Ground Force

Emlyn James making the reach on


Elephant Hawk Moth 7a

The South Peak is home to some quality


patios. Some notable ones include
landscaping efforts below the following
problems:
Rowler Bowler Currant, Rock
Woods/Filthy Crag Q should prevent a
body roll down the hill.
Birdsong ,Bradley Quarry tames what
was a terrible landing.
Levitation 45, Crich Tors deep and a
bit unstable, best not to overshoot this
one.
The Cave, Beastwood a brilliant
excavation effort to add more steep to
the steep.
Blackfoot, Rowsley Woods a subtle
affair with a distinct wobble.

Jon Fullwood on Caterpillar 6c

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The Roof Area


This is the main event and home to maybe the best collection of highballs in the South Peak. Once established over the roof things ease but its best to have your
escape plan sorted before setting off.
The first ascents of these problems were climbed above pads stacked on top of some springy holly branches to give a softer landing zone! The landing is flat so a big
team with a few pads should be okay, carrying in those holly branches was tiresome.
11. Peak Practice 6b
From a good jug (and eliminating the finger crack) stretch out to two small pockets in the arte then lurch right around the arte to a good hold on the front face and
up. Makes for a good acclimatising warm up to get your highball head in gear.
12. The Crack 6b+
The original E1 5c (ouch!) makes a brilliant highball.
13. Highrider 7b+
The roof about 2m right of The Crack involves some tricky toe hooking. The hardest and best problem through the roof, so far
14. Project
The roof to the right looks possible (just).
15. Elephant Hawk Moth 7a
A solid gold classic which climbs the wide right hand side of the roof into a tricky direct exit roll onto the slab. Some HVS slab work lies above.
16. Caterpillar 6c
Start up the right arte to gain the lip of the roof, follow this left past the exit of Elephant Hawk Moth to an easier top out a bit further left using the obvious crack/flake
hold. Finish up the slabby crack.
17. Cest La Vee 6a
The arte right of the start of Caterpillar. Start on the right to the slot/hole then step left and climb the arte ' cheval' using some pockets and edges either side. High
but a reasonable landing.

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