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234 viewsArtisan Distiller Summer 2015
revista de destilación
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© © All Rights Reserved
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/ 108
ARTIS oe
SPIRIT
Boe a a) a ee pS Soa heer was
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Enea y £ BRAND REDESIGN
EUR CAL KEL Te ae Te YT
ALL TOGETHER NOW OEM ET XI CFNAPA
eer
Brand Design for the Spirits, Wine and Beer Industries.
DESIGN FOR PACKAGING, LOGOS, CUSTOM BOTTLES, COLLATERAL, SIGNAGE, WEBSITES & NAMING
et aOR Saeed te Tree UMNO eT TEr mm ieee Tm Aa Mento were TABLE of CONTENTS
ALETTER FROM THE EDITOR
GUILD UP.
How farming a state stiles gull can improve your bu
QUARTERLY U.S. GUILD REPORT
What’ goin state
IN-MASH MILLING PART ONE
investigation into making esti operations safer
ACSA COMMITTEE UPDATES
rom th Board of D the American Craft Sprit As
‘OUR STORY
LOCAL LOUISIANA
Leuisana Spits of Lacasine,
BLENDING SPIRITS
ea nel
DISTRIBUTION ELOCUTION
BETTER WAREHOUSING FOR BETTER SPIRITS
bratty environment fr your maturing bare
‘SAVE THE SWEETSHINE
gait the tax man in West Vig
G TELLTALE SIGNS IT'S TIME FOR
APACKAGE REDESIGN
ayPannucy 10 paar LINE
anes AND DISTILLING
DSP FEDER JEPORTING
Morin Repr of Storage Op 5B Form 5110.11
ENDLESS ONLINE SHELF &
RELATED BRAND CHALLENGES
The need for constant brand “tp
4
23
3
35
38
43
46
50
53
63
MICROBIAL CONTAMINATION
NOTES FROM THE WORLD WHISKIES &
SPIRITS CONFERENCE
ummaries of evary panel fom this special conferen
A CRAFTED SHIP KNOWN AS.
PHILADELPHIA DISTILLING
HOW TO SCREEN FOR THE BEST
EQUIPMENT MANUFACTURER FOR YOU
the right question
HOW | QUIT MY CORPORATE 4B TO MAKE WHISKEY
‘SAXTONS RIVER DISTILLING
BECAUSE WHO DOESN'T HAVE AN EMAIL ADDRESS?
fuvice on ema letter market
AFIRST-TIMER’S ADI CONVENTION RECAP
ACT Il: NOW WHAT?
STATE oF THE UNION
Ks updated indusy whit
AYEAR IN REVIEW
TEQUILA 101
m be hsturic and dala pr
ee
CRAFT MADE TONIC
Aig player inthe budlng ora ier mathe
DIY: SAFETY OVERVIEW
ADVERTISER INDEX
from the COVER Kings County Distillery in New York, New York. Image by Amanda Jay Christensen
66
70
8
a7
100
102
106 CHILLERS
Dry milling is pretty self-explanatory: take dy grain and
via a hammer or roller mil the grain is either ground to a
flour or simply cracked.
Wet Miling is a process primarily used by ethanol
refineries to pre-process corn for production of ethanol.
Incmash milling is out term for using a high shear mixer
to mill the grain, combined with water, in situ, in the
mash tun,
WWIVARTISANSPIRITMAG.COM THE PRACTICAL AND THE ROI:
Although we had made the decision to mill
off site, we were aware (as you should be, too)
that off site milling has @ waste component.
Generally about 10-15% of the raw grain you
send to a milling facility will be lost in milling
line turn-around from other products. A crude
ROI shows a pretty quick payoff when compared
tthe cost of a High Shear Mixer.
Mash tun = 1000 gal, steam and cooling
waler jacketed, 80rpm centrally mounted
sweep mixer, with @ 2” discharge
> Shear Pump = OEM, 3250 rpm,
30-40 gpm, VED controlled, 30 3ph
> Shear Mixer = OEM, 3250 rpm,
VED controlled, 30A 3ph
Bulk Grain (30,000 Ibs @ $.35/1b) $10,445
Miling ($0676) $1,800
Miling Loss @ 12% 3500 Ibs
Cost of Goods Loss = Grain $1235
Cost af Goods Loss = Miling $213
Total COGS Loss sade
ROI vs, Total COGS Loss 125 Pre Milled Grain Orders ‘SHEAR PUMP EVALUATION:
‘The shear pump worked well but had the following issues:
1. Ifthe slury mixture was too dense, the flow to the slury
pump could be impeded. We found that we had to install a
“booster pump” with a centrifugal tri-clover pump to ensure
proper slury flow to the shear pump.
2. Utilizing the mash tun as our single use and return tank
proved problematic and suggested that the slury should
be mixed upstream and pumped to the shear mixer for
delivery to the mash tun, rather than recirculating the
mash tun
3. The shear pump didn't provide for additonal mass and
energy transfer during the mashsin operations
AE
Shear Miter Whole Peeled Potatoes
Shear Miser Whole washed, unpeeled pot
Shear Mixer & Shear Pump Whole Rye
Shear Miser & Shear Pump
Whole Matted Barley
THE INITIAL
roller mil,
present us
Jobn McKee
‘Butte, MT.
ate
SHEAR MIXER EVALUATION:
The shear mixer was installed in our mash tun by Headframe
Spirits Manufacturing and used to test various grains (shown in
the table below). The mixer had the following benefits over the
shear pump:
1. All material could be mixed into inital sluy form and
milled in the same tank.
2, Provided the sweep mixer was engaged during shearing
‘operations, the shear mixer was able to homogenize and
reduce particle size uniformly
3. Increased mass & energy transfer in the mash tun led
to shorter mas times, some on the order of 50 percent
faster.
4, One negative of the shear mixer (resolved by
procedural and mash recipe changes) is that full
water can’t be added to the mash tun frst. We
found that when the full mash water volume was
used from the beginning of the mash, a portion
of the Kernels did not come into contact with the
mixer. Adjusting our recipe to a smaller initial water
volume, allowing time for the shear mixer to contact
ators
each kernel, then adding the remainder of the mash
water allowed for fully ground grain.
\L RESULTS AND OUR “ASK” FOR PART TWO:
Overall the tests performed as we expected. All raw materials tested thus
far were adequately ground to a consistency between hammer mill and
suitable for both continuous and batch stills and also suitable
for differing tray designs (in reference to continuous or top-fed stills only)
As we proceed with testing,
we're asking the distilling community to
with requests for further tests and information. What do you
want to know — other grain types, changes to yield, costs, RO! vs Hammer
Mills, changes to electrical classifications, etc.? Part two of this article will
concentrate on answers to the questions that you ask.
Reach out to [email protected] and brian@artisanspiritmag.
com with your questions, thoughts, and insights, We're always willing to
help and share.
along with bis wife Courtney, are the owners of Headframe Spirits in
When not testing crazy ideas like in-mash milling, Jobn isa professional
builder of amazing Blanket forts for bis kids. For more information email
jebn@beadframespirtscom.
\WWIVARTISANSPIRITMAG.COM LOCAL PARTNER,
GLOBAL GLASS MANUFACTURER
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sociation
fommnuttee Update
LEGISLATION
Since the American Craft Spirits Association was
have heard our members loud and clear—Federal Excise Tax
reduction is their #1 legislative priority. The ACSA Legislative
Committee has been focusing on advancing this cause, and we
have made significant progress. The formation ofthe partnership
with DISCUS in support of the FET initiative is a historic step
towards industry unity, and was essential to. moving these
changes forward. The work to shepherd these proposals into law
will be lengthy and challenging, and we are grateful to have the
formed we
guidance of our new lobbyist, Jim Hyland of the Pennsylvania
Avenue Group.
For now, we encourage all of our members to connect with
their legislators and educate them about yourselves and your
industry. Your representatives on the ACSA Board of Directors
will continue to work on the hill to craft legislative language
There is a wellspring of legislation supporting craft
producers sprouting for seemingly every direction. With this
sed awareness and broad support, we are enthusiastic
about the possibility for success in the near future!
Spirits
ACSA LEGISLATIVE COMMITTEE
The unity we show in support of sound tax policy will be
welcomed on Capitol Hill where, all too often, partisan and
industry infighting seem to dominate the discussion of important
issues. We look forward now to doing the hard work necessary
to advance the bill
PETER CRESSY
PRESIDENT AND CEO, DISCU:
applaud Congressman Young and Congressman Yarmuth
{or their support of the craft spirits industry and the introduction
of HR 2520, the Distillery Innovation and Excise Tax Reform
Act of 2015,
RALPH ERENZO
CHAIR, Acs ATIVE COMMITTEE
\WVWWARTISANSPIRITMAG COM
ETHICS
The Ethics Committee has been working to balance the many
ests of our members who wanted an Ethics Code to operate
as guiding principles and inspiration and aspiration.
We believe that our members are self selecting as the cream
of the crop, and already living their lives and conducting their
business in this way, since it isthe best way Perhaps a bt nave,
but we seek the best in ourselves, and our fellow members
In light of this belief, we are working to arive at a reporting
mechanism which properly encourages legitimate reports, while
not rewarding harassment for the investigators nor the targets.
Progress is always slow, and slower than desired, but progress
is moving. We always welcome members to join us on our
mission — the more hands helping, the better, and the more
this becomes an industry movement.
PAUL HLETKO
ETHICS COMMITTEE CHAIRMAN
This year’s Judging brought together some of the most
ential people in the industry. As the only not-for-profit trade
sociation representing craft spirits producers, our directives,
as
are to be transparent with our protocals and procedures, and
to uphold the ACSA “Code of Ethics” in place for TTB labeling
and product integrity
TED HUBER
VIDE PRESIO
JUDGING COMMITTEE CO-CHAIR, ACSA
ET Pea SUT
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respect amongst members.
Daa oR
and local laws
CONVENTION
Our convention will kck off with @ town hell meeting, followed by
interactive, round-table sessions covering the most important topics
in our industry.
Chicago was selected because of the partnerships with Visit
(Chicago and the Palmer House, our host hotel and venue, in providing
a truly epic experience in terms of program content, expense
and location! The Illinois Craft Distillers Association & the ACSA
Convention Committee are committed to bringing the convention
attendees an opportunity to promote their spirits in a consumer and
industry based event that embraces the independent, innovative
spirit of our industry
LEAH HUTCHINSON
ARKETING & CONVENTION DIRECTOR, ACSA
EUR SOTA RSS|
EVAL U eS ty
CHICAGO, IL. MARCH 2-4, 2016
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Choa
on 2 distillery? Congratulations, you've invested yourselt
into a big damn marketing firm. While product quality
consistency, availability and price point are relevant factors in
what gets picked up—by a distributor or an on or off premise
customer—marketing plays an absolutely critical role ineach step
leading to that final decision. From the fanciest, most exclusive
brands, tothe plastic handles of well vodka, deliberate marketing
has gone into each brand and product. We're not talking about
marketing gimmicks or tricks. Authenticity, integrity and social
responsibilty ae as valuable in today’s consumer's purchasing
decisions as price point and quality are.
In the increasingly challenging field of differentiating brands,
every distillery has a distinct and unique opportunity to build
something based on their own vision and values. When we
build a company or a brand or a product around that which
moves us, we build authenticity into our company. Authenticity
inherently inspires attention, positive associations and loyalty,
and when authenticity is built around community, the value of
that message is amplified. The companies doing this well are the
companies which recognize the value of marketing before even
filing a business license
We saw it on a large scale with Absolut. Starting in the 1980s,
they designed iconic ads based on cities around the world with the
tagline “Absolut <>.” By the mid-2000s, Abs
had tethered that original marketing concept to the US fo
for flavored vodka. Releasing @ series of place-based vodkas,
they've built product flavored and labeled after cities around the
US, creating a sense of connection to a community. Their highly
\WVWWARTISANSPIRITMAG COM
community YOUR secret weapon
Uae eae etd
localized packaging branding proved great marketing tool
Hundreds of communities found themselves personelly marketed
to by a large brand selling a localized message which motivated
therm into buying a bottle or two to commemorate their place in
tive world, It was 2 great move on Absolut’s part, as a Swedish
company, to establish brand loyally and a sense of community in
people all over the worl.
Recognizing that most mic
sized marketing budget, what tools
€ to todays spirits consumer while distinguishing a
company from the rest of the pack? How does a distiller build a
great story without breaking the bank on marketing costs? The
answer is surprising, straightforward, creates mote value than a
high priced strategist, and it centers on the world right outside
your door: ¢
Branding is the art of conveying a unique and compelling
message to an audience. And in the increasingly congested
spirits world, it can be difficult to find territory in which to
distinguish a product. Many distilleries have the advantage of
producing products using unique raw materials and non-standard
production methods. However, unless those methods are being
communicated by the brand itself, these products will strugele
as much as any other brand.
There's great Montana success story in a company called Red
Ants Pants, which makes work wear for women. Red Ants Pants
tilleries don’t have an Absolut
fe have on hand to create
is @ company devoted to empowering women in many different
roles, and the founder of the company, Sarah Calhoun, was very
clear on her vision for the company when she founded it—a vision
3B which includes promoting and supporting “Made in the USA”
manufacturing. She didn’t stop there. Her vision wasn’t just a
‘motto or company slogan. She took it much farther by launching,
the Red Ants Pants Foundation to provide grants to organizations
and events which support the message she's nurturing. And if
that weren't enough, she founded the Red Ants Pants Music
Festival, whose profits go to supporting the Foundation. And
she's done all of this from a tiny town in Montana called White
Sulphur Springs.
Haven't heard of it? Not surprising, considering the town has
about 900 residents. The festival draws over 10,000 people in
the summer to a cow field in White Sulphur Springs. Sarah began
with a vision and a set of values and has closely weighed each
of her business decisions against those core values. At $139.00
a pair, Red Ants Pants aren't inexpensive, but purchasing a pair
is making an investment—in a brand, in a message—and in a
darn great pair of pants. It's @ buy-in to Sarah's passion for her
vision and values.
When we built our company concept, we had the name down
very early in the process. The working title was Headframe
Distillery, which morphed into Headframe Spirits. Headtrames
are the mining uprights dotting the hills above Butte, Montana,
Google “What is a Headframe,” they're beautiful. They're a
legacy in our landscape—a beautiful sight in an otherwise
somewhat blighted scenery. We wanted our company story to be
\wrapped around our place in the world. And it's resonated—with
the folks who live here now, with those who grew up here or went
to college here and with those who've left and are looking for
the excuse to return home to live. And the best part? We don't
have to pay a strategist to develop that story for us. We get to
‘unearth our story with our local museums and historians, We get
to take the stories of our past and weave them into new stories
about our future. We get to do this in partnership with the other
organizations who are founded on the same story, who share our
vision and values. And nobody can tell Butte’s story better than
Butte can. And why would anyone try? We corner the market on
‘our corner of the world
That's really the secret here. Each of us has the story of what
makes us unique. Tell an authentic story in an authentic manner
and it will connect with an audience. Social media becomes your
best friend and stories and images and hashtags are as easy as
looking outside your front door.
Go bigger for a moment. What does a WIN look like for you?
What is your vision for your business and what are your values?
‘And I'm not asking just the bank account signers, I'm asking
each of you who work at a distillery. What's the message the
company promotes? What do you do, in tum, to support and
promote that message? Because our brand identity is tethered to
eaci of us and is so much easier to communicate when it’s pat of
the fabric of our professional identities. So brand owners, tasting
room employees, tour guides and distillers alike, | encourage you
to ensure you're clear on that message and that you understand
your role in that marketing,
Bottle after bottle of clear spirits, brown spirits and flavored
spirits collect dust on the shelves of liquor stores and dimly lit
back bars across the US. That’s the hard truth and the tough
love. The good news? It's easier than it was 10 years ago when
you were faced with questions from distributors like: “What is
craft?” or, ‘What is a microdistllery?” Newer distilleries benefit
from those who came before us, fought the good fight, and taught
us all that the litte guys deserve shelf space next to the big guys.
‘And for that, we raise a glass. And the better news? We each have
the ability to make @ great impact on the microdistilling industry
to do it without stepping on one another’ toes, while at the same
time making great social returns with our efforts.
Courtney McKee is CEO of Headframe Spirits @ Headframe
Manufacturing. For more info init wuss headftamespiritecom or call
(406) 299-2886,
CUSTOM
MERCHANDISE
FOR YOUR
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Crea
Cette ctary
ia
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\WWIVARTISANSPIRITMAG.COM Local Lousiana
Tritten by Steven Seim
See production is a crucial part of the economic
histoy of Louisiana, Bayou Rum, from Louisiana Spirits
in Lacassine, hopes to honor that tradition by becoming a part of
it, Taking locally sourced Louisiana sugar, the ownership team of
Trey Litel, Tim Litel and Skip Cortese produce an entire portfolio
of rum products that they hope will come to be known as some
of the countrys finest. Trey took time to share the story oftheir
goal of preserving Louisiana's sugarcane history through their
rum, the people who helped them get started, and the advice he
has for other distilleries.
Trey worked at Bacardi before deciding, with the help of Skip
and Tim, to start their own distillery. Lousiana Spirits is one of
the first craft distilleries in Louisiana, which Trey told us meant
\WVWWARTISANSPIRITMAG COM
Photos Courtesy of Louisiana Spirita LLC
many hurdles, legal and othemmise. Like many, they had trouble
with zoning, fre codes, TTB concerns, local utilities, besides
actually planning on how to make the best distillery they could
But positive conversations with local sugar producers and future
fans helped maintain their enthusiasm, which still carries them
‘on today. Trey said that throughout the process they kept in
mind one saying: “Rum is the answer,” and that motto has taken
(on a life of its own among their community and fans of this
historic produet.
Despite the impediments over 4,000 people visited the
distillery on its opening day November 16, 2013. Skip and Trey
gave 33 total tours to groups numbering 40 to 50 people each,
They offered sample cocktails, @ BBQ dinner, local musicians,
38 and a rock wall for kids to climb, Since then, their visitor center
has been featured prominently in local media and continues to
be instrumental in introducing people to Bayou Rum. Their 22-
acre faclily houses thei distillery, visitor center, a 100-year-old
farmhouse, a gift shop, and more. A gallery inside the visitor
center shows Louisiana's history of producing both sugarcane
and rum. Every bottle of Bayou Rum is made on premises, Their
base ingredients (molasses and raw sugar) are provided by M.A.
Patout and Son, which is one of the oldest sugar manufacturers,
in the United States dating back to 1829.
Trey and his partners were able to make use of a great deal
GREAT TOOLS.
GREAT BEER
> ee WESTERN SQUARE
oa TNDUSTRIES
36
ume
Western Square is your best partner.
“Some will just produce and bottle and others will
distill and bottle — it doesn’t matter that much.
What matters is getting consumers’ attention to
influence distribution partners to support you
instead of only the international conglomerates.”
— Trey Litel
of advice and experience from others while building Louisiana
Spirits. The American Distiling Institute helped put them
in contact with several people and companies who help new
distilleries. Trey mentioned Luis Ayala, an expert on rum, who
helped inform them on rum production and history. Engineers,
from Vendome Copper Works and two companies helped to
finalize @ proper distillation process flow. “Visits to other
Gistilleries really helped us the mast with visualizing our plan
and finding best practices,” Trey also said
The history of sugarcane in Louisiana is a driving force behind
the story of Louisiana Spirits. Trey gave us a truncated version,
Peete
cad eid
westernsquare.com - 209,944,0921,
‘Lean, Green and Made in America
\WWIVARTISANSPIRITMAG.COM starting with rum being produced by American colonists before
the revolutionary war. Discovering how to crystallize sugar and
sell it led to a land rush along the Mississippi river. The boom
of sugar production led to Louisiana supplying 90% of the sugar
consumed in America by 1850. Sugar profits helped build New
Orleans, which is commemorated by the Sugar Bow! being
played in New Orleans every year.
Bayou Rum curently comes in four varieties: Silver, Spiced,
a Select that is aged in oak barrels, and a Satsuma rum liqueur.
Satsuma is a variety of orange that originated in Japan. It was
grown extensively all across the southeastern United States,
including Louisiana, The flavor is described as sweeter than
other oranges. Trey said his favorite way to drink their Satsuma
Rum is chilled, straight up, which he described as “like biting
into a cold Satsuma orange.” For the immediate future they are
staying focused on rum. Trey said, “the rum category is well-
established, large, and ripe for innovation.”
Trey finished by sharing advice that he believes can help other
craft distillers. He said that the most helpful advice he received
was to “build it bigger. If you don't have a big enough footprint,
you won't be able to produce enough to make it financially.” He
also wanted to convey that the building and production part of
distilling is the easy part: “The distribution and sales job will
take more money and time than you think.” Without a large
percentage of your budget set aside for marketing, he believes i
vill be impossible for anyone to learn about your brand
As for the industry as @ whole, Tey sid that there are enough
nsumers for eveyone, especially with cratt gaining a bigger
share. He said, “Some will just produce and bettle and others
will distill and bottle - it doesn't matter that much, What
matters is getting consumers’ attention to influence distribution
partners to support you instead of only the
conglomerates.” There is also help in local organizations which
don't deal with alechol, such as local business support end area
economic development groups. A similar group took an interest
in helping Louisiana Spirits grow, and Trey said it “made a
world of difference in our ability to persuade ia
important changes to our local laws to enable us to operat
we do today.”
The spirits industry in Louisiana is already benefiting from the
headway Trey and his partners have made with Bayou Rum. Their
portfolio is enough to make their state proud, We are excited to
see where Louisiana Spirits goes next.
ternational
wakers to make
ated in Lacassine, LA. For mo
588-5800,
ca bayou
vise sn.com or call (337)
Au eca
om
\WVWWARTISANSPIRITMAG COM
Een
nea
Ter see aera
Cree a ee aes
a Lan?
PY,
Pose
Sma
SAL “Design your whiskey to be great,
don’t just hope for greatness.”
DAREK BELL
[EXCERPTED FROM TH SECOND BOOK FIRE WATER
Blending is a combination of art and science. A well-blended spirit is something that will elevate your brand to the top shelf. If
{you want to produce the best spirit you ate capable of, blending is one of the most powerful tools you have, something that will pay
dividends in satisfied, loyal customers.
Overview
“often find that when people think about blending, at least
in North America, they think of producing something of lesser
quality, some watered down blended whiskey,” tells Nancy
Fraley, an internationally-renowned spirits consultant, taster and
blender. “But the way | ike to think about itis that unless you're
going to release a single barrel product, you always have to find a
‘way to put those barrels together in a way that's going to create
the best product that you possibly can.”
Blending spirits allows you to achieve consistency, develop
your own unique house style, and create a product that is greater
than the sum of its parts. The myriad flavors in each of your
barrels come together to form a spirit with great complexity and
quality, like teamwork in a bottle.
“Consider your casks as a group af individuals,” explains
Nicole Austin, Master Blender at Kings County Distillery in New
York City. "Make that mental shift: these are not all the same.”
Austin says there are a lot of blending methodologies out there,
but you will have to find the one that works best for you and
your house style,
“You know your product better
than anybody, so you should know
best which barrels best represent
the best product you are capable of
making and the one that you most
intend and desire to make,” she tells.
At Kings County, Austin and
Cooperage Manager Ryan Ciutcha pull
\WVWWARTISANSPIRITMAG COM
“Consider your caske as a group
of individuals. Make that mental
shift: these are not all the same.
samples from the barrels they will consider for blending and
bottling. They arrange the spirits in a row, then start at opposite
ends of the samples, nosing and making notes about each one,
that way they arrive at each sample with different palates. They
eliminate the samples that are not ready, then they select about
seven barrels that best represent their house styl,
From those barrels, they use small samples to create different,
blends on a small scale. This is the first time they actually taste
the spirits. As they review each sample and blend, they ask what
they like and what is missing,
“Now | ask, ‘Alright, what does this need to be balanced?
explains Austin. “Because vanilla plus vanilla sometimes equals
sweaty gym socks and you don't necessarily understand what
happened, so you can be surprised sometimes by what's actually
in the blend. If i's really oak forward, maybe it needs some
complexity, some lightness to balance that out.”
Having the written tasting notes, they are able to quickly
identity the barrels that will balance the blend. After they choose
the final blend, they harvest the barrels, pour them in a stainless
steel tank, add water until it reaches 90
proof and bottle it. They add the water
over several days to gradually reduce
the ABV, but once it reaches 90 proof
they bottle it immediately to prevent
amy further changes.
Austin says that spending four
hours perusing barrels feels more
Tike a luxury than a necessity, but
she doesn’t think that's actually
NICOLE AUSTIN
Waster aLenneR
vanes COUNTY DISTILLERY
9 the case
“My product would not
even be half as good if |
didn’t,” she tells. “In any
given blend | might have a
14 month old barrel, a 12
month old barrel, an 18 month
old barrel and a 20 month old
barrel. If | had just pulled those
all at one moment, if | had just
picked one age and pulled thase it wouldn't work. You have to
spend the time and effort.”
Creating Complexity
Fraley says distillers can create complexity with a variety of
blending techniques. Like Austin, she recommends combining
different ages of spirits, using barrels from different warehouse
locations, barrels with different char levels and even different
“As a small distiller, when you don't
have much stock, you may not be able to
create perfect flavor consistency, but you
want to have consistency of quality.”
SPIRTS CONSULTANT, TASTER AND BLENDER
barrel sizes.
Many distillers start their aging
program with small barels, and
while Fraley advises her clients
to use 53 gallon barrels, she
says she understands the
economics of why distillers
sometimes opt for small
barrels. Fraley always
suggests transitioning to a
53 gallon program, but says the small barrels can be useful as,
blending tools.
Fraley says that whether you have small barrels or large,
many barrels or few, your blending concerns are still the same:
consistent quality.
“As a small distiller, when you don’t have much stock, you may
not be able to create perfect flavor consistency, but you want to
have consistency of quality,” she explains. “You want a consumer
NANCY FRALEY
\WWIVARTISANSPIRITMAG.COM ‘to realize that you have a recognizable house style.”
Since most smal distillers don’t have alot of mature
stock to bottle, by carefully blending younger spirits
‘they can create a new spirit with complexity that
surpasses that youth, When it comes to blending, age
matters, but its not the whole story.
“There's this obsession with age,” tells Nicole
Austin. “Going into it, | felt like that was the only
‘thing that mattered: if you found the right age you will
have nailed it. | had no idea how much barrel to barrel
variation there might be.”
‘Across the country in Joseph, Oregon, Stein
Distillery’s blended whiskey was selected as the best
‘American blended whiskey at the 2014 World Whiskies
Awards. Competing against products up to seven years
old, Stein’s whiskey was only two years, proving that
thoughtful blending can create complexity beyond the
spirit’ age.
“We probably took a month making different blends,”
explains co-owner Austin Stein, who says that winning
‘the award really boosted sales,
“You add a lot more flavor profiles in your blend
by combining different grains,” explains Stein's
father, Dan. “Blends typically tend to be smoother
than straight whiskeys, but it's got nothing to do with
making it smoother. By blending barley, which is a real
mild grain, with corn or rye, you can get a lot more
flavors going on.”
Timing and Methods
The age of your sprit is not the only timing you need
‘to consider when harvesting barrels. You should also expect the
barrels to go through cycles of oxidation, so sometimes mature
barrels need to be left alone for several months before they are
ready for harvest.
“Your spirit will go through a lot of stages,” explains Fraley.
“The first year is going to be mostly about extraction — wood
sugars, solids, tannins, lactones, fat from the oak and such
‘The first year you're going to see a big loss. And then you'll see
a period where you taste your spirit and it's just now starting to
show all of those elements. And then it will go into and out of
oxidation periods. You'll taste your spirit and you'll think this
was a mistake, six months ago it was so good. Taste it again in
another six months or @ year and it has completely come out of
that cycle, and i's great.” Fraley says that's part of the art of
\WVWWARTISANSPIRITMAG COM
blending: knowing how to capture the right moment
When you ate ready to harvest those barrels and create a
blend, you need to be aware that as you add water to bring it to
bottling proof, there is a danger of saponification, which means
the spirit can turn soapy. If this happens, there is no way to
reverse it. The spirit is ruined.
“with higher quality products | want to go very slowly over
time," tells Fraley of her proofing methods. “Once I've watered
it, | put it back in the barrels again, let it sit there, determine
how long I want to do this program. It can be up to a year. Then
from the same barrels | lower it again.”
Some brandy blenders take up to five years to proof their
spirits, adding water gradually and letting the spirit rest and
recover after each proofing. Double distilled, high congener
spirits like pot-distlled whiskeys, brandies and rums contain
a “If you want it done and
you want it done right, you
call Joseph & Joseph.”
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%, ssiling events wil be ing? reed to bounderstanding and styourdayiobat % srsesed wi tems at
Mp, sealers. supprte four scheiule and = the dtl, and at CHS Mem
Marya what you have to sacrifice in order = home. You schedules “ip, ww
PRIORITIZING: = to make te day job and distiling will code and itil be
$F Priontzng wil be work toeter. Personal tine © %p, complicated. ERIK
hard as eventhing on yout %, and elasaton wll ot Say WARTIN
plate will seem important and “%,reallyetist. ree
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necessary to complete— items at
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OF ADVICE
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DISTILLE!
% workin as need beand =
%, swuwilbemaned NICOLE AUSTIN
Ct. vanes county vstLtsky — On mading your
raga cui Be prepared to stay as long as they need,
CASEY. 2nd be prepare or them to show ou the dour
WeGOWAN that day”
RUAEROSPRTS— DAN FARBER, osocais — Oo having 2 day
On ining employees: “Surround jp *A lot of people have day jabs and its
yourself with good dependable people,
step out oftheir way, let them do what they
are good at...in tur they wil give you all they
fairly normal
TED PAPAS, aic sotrom vouiskey — On
Nei help cenwreseed planning: “Asan onner, you ned to focus on
have to help eves ‘ long-term goals of the distillery—that's your
PATRICK SIMPSON nan jb,
when i time to leave the day job “When it
becomes more of a hindrance than a benefit." STEVEN STONE, souno srinis — On
employees: “Hire self-motivated people” and
Rely on your partners.” Keep your sanity
with managing a day job and a distillery with
dependable people you can lean on
PAUL ZIEGMAN, ninacwoex cart
— On the transition: “It is important that
distilling is always fun, and not ever a jb.
‘making the transition
‘uitting the day job will mean
that you will rise and fall of your own
accor.
TRISH & GREG SCHWARTZ
DISTILLERY — On working in @ partnership at
the cistilley: “We divide the workload into
‘what our strengths are. We both can do it al
and most often are involved in every aspect of
the business, bu try to focus on our strengths
{obtain some consistency and efiiency.”
TOM BURKLEAUX, nev va. 0
On finding balance: “Let go, if only fr a few
hours each night.” Giving yourself some time
to-umwind can keep you
healt.
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Coe JONTHLY REPORT «
STORAGE OPERATIO
TTB FORM 5110.11
Ronen
“Imported Spirits,
This is thesecond ina series ofarticles providing
a focused look at the Federal
requirements for filing reports of operations
and excise tax returns and payments
at regulatory
1 the last article, the TTB Production monthly report
Tethered. Te cient tpel te Sora et,
which reflects a monthly summaty of bulk quantities of
distilled spirits products entering, leaving and remaining in
the Storage account. After spirits are declared as “produced,”
or, when spirits are received from another plant, of, received from
Customs custody, they are generally accounted for on the storage
report. The first item to note in respect to this report is that a DSP
may be required to file up to four storage reports per month. Four reports?
Take a look at the report form in the top center. In the box tiled “Report
Covers” — you will see four check boxes, labeled “Domestic Spirits and All Wines,”
“Puerto Rican Spirits,” and “Virgin Island Spirits.” Most artisan
distillers, fortunately, will be filing a single Storage report, as they produce and handle only
“domestic” spirits (distilled in the USA). However, should a DSP decide to purchase whisky, neutral spirits, rum, tequila or other
product distilled outside the USA, a Storage report would be used to account for imported spirits. Due to tax issues attendant to
rum, Puerto Rico and Virgin Islands spirits are each also reported separately.
MONTHLY REPORT OF STORAGE OPERATIONS, TTB FORM 5110.11
The Monthly Report of Storage Operations, TTB F 5110.11.
reflects the quantities of SPIRITS RECEIVED INTO THE STORAGE
ACCOUNT on LINE 2, under each of the class and type headings
in columns (b) through (). The entry on LIVE.J in each column,
‘ON HAND FIRST OF MONTH, would reflect the inventory of spirits
that was reported on LINE 23, ON HAND END OF MONTH, from
the previous monthly Storage repor.
The Storage report is a basic account style report, where the
starting inventory, plus additions, is compared to reductions
plus the ending inventory. The TOTAL figures on LINE 6 for the
upper portion of the report must match the Total figures on LINE
24 for the lower portion of the report. Losses on LINE 22 and
gains which would be reported on LINE § would balance the
report. Typically, a bulk accounting for liquids, especially when
volume is temperature sensitive, will result ina net gain or loss
during a given period when products are being entered into and
removed from tanks or smaller bulk containers.
Whisky, rum and brandy each can be aged in oak barrels,
sometimes for years. Loss due to evaporation or leaks, and losses
during the emptying of the barrels when they are dumped for
o
mingling or processing are normal, and the difference between
the filled quantity and the quantity dumped is recorded and
reported as a loss in the DSP records.
While Line 2 captures the total of spirits received into the
account for the month, note for IMPORTS (and PR or VI spirits)
that LINE 3 is used, and if BULK SPIRITS ate returned to the
DSP they are shown on LINE 4. A simple basic rule found in 27
CFR 19,351(c) is that bulk spirits cannot be transferred back
into Storage from the Processing account. Further, spirits from
the Processing account at another plant cannot be transferred
in bond and deposited into the Storage account. This basic rule
is meant to ensure that the products entering storage are kept
within their already determined class and type while in Storage.
Products of different class or type may not be mingled in the
Storage account, also for this reason,
BULK WITHDRAWAL OF TAXPAID ALCOHOL FROM STORAGE
would be reported on LINE 7; this is generally a rare occurrence
for a small distiller. Such a withdrawal would likely be for
shipment to a flavoring company for non-beverage use. LINES
8,,9,AND 13 are unlikely to be used. LINE 10 might be for a
\WWIVARTISANSPIRITMAG.COM ee TEMainng copy must be retained, by the p
Puares must Be Drepared tor domosig spirits,
Rican spints, and spi
tom thes
Serttons musta por on Tee
TRANSACTIONS WHISKY™ BRANDY
DSTLED Ar DISTILLED at
160" ano UNDE 170" AND UNDER! “Oye A
wy (o) @ (
Giana atatmoam | r
2. Depontodin uk corpo?
Received tom Gusionss castay
4. Retumed to buk storage
S.TOTAL (Lines trough 6)
7. Taxpaid
8. Use of the United Stanse
2 Hospital, scenic educational gao™
19. Export
[ | _t
12, Transfer to CMByy a
ae P>—H—
3 [18 Trnatorto pony winery I LT I i
5 Traworto cow
18. Research, development, OF tasting™
17 Tansee lo procesing woman
ranstered to processing
J Trenstere to production anand”
22, Other Lossex™
22. On hand end of moni
24 TOTAL (Lines 7 trough 23) ee,
FOOTNOTES
‘From production or by transfer in bong,
“tn the 280 of imported Spirits or spirits from Puerto
“Does net include. spints withdrawn, for experimental or Rico and the Us. Virgin
peBeareh use under 26 U's
(2) cumin,
mands, apoiicabie only 9 (3) ‘emptyin
A212 such spits shou spinteor the degrees oF more of prooh includes d
JcPorted and identifed at Line 2 “ipcludes only losses etemmined at the time of: of in eo
(1) withdrawal feported in
6
\WVIWARTISANSPIRITMAG COM DIRECT EXPORT OF BULK SPIRITS; LINES 11, 12,AND LINE
Sentry into a FOREIGN TRADE ZONE or into CUSTOMS BOND.
LINE 14 would be for a TRANSFER OF SPIRITS TO A BONDED
WINERY for use as wine spirits, or alcohol transferred to a
winery for use in making non-beverage wine. LINE 16 might be
used to report SHIPMENTS OF LABORATORY SAMPLES OUT FOR
TESTING—see the rules in 27 CFR 19.434 regarding removal
of samples.
The most common reduction in Storage inventory will be the
transfer (Dumping) of spirits into the PROCESSING ACCOUNT
for creation of finished products, by reduction to proof, blending
and bottling. Entries on LINE 17 of the Storage report will also
be included in totals on Line 2 in Part | ofthe Processing report,
and on the appropriate lines in Part IV on page 2 of that report.
LINE 18reports any amounts RETURNED TO THE PRODUCTION
ACCOUNT FOR REDISTILLATION; any such quantity would also,
be included in the Received for Redistillation entry on Line 15
of the Production report.
TRANSFERS OF SPIRITS IN BOND TO ANOTHER DSP from
Storage would be reported on LINE 19, and any SPIRITS
VOLUNTARILY DESTROYED would be reported on LINE 20.
[At the end of each calendar quarter, a physical inventory of
bulk spirits is required to be documented and certified. That
inventory would be reflected as the closing INVENTORY on L/NE
23 for each of the four quarter ending months, March, June,
‘September and December.
cere os Hae
zeman AMET
uci’? #EborT OF STORAGE OPERATION
{oem |
=e
The column headings reflect specific types of spirits that you
might receive into the Storage account. Whisky and Brandy
ate split into two columns, by proof determined at the final
production gauge. Each column reflects a kind or type of spirits,
as reflected in the Standards of Identity found in 27 CFR Part 5.
As brietly as possible, the reporting of Storage operations on
TTB Form 5110.11, due to be mailed or filed through Pay.Gov
by the 15" of each month, has been presented in this writing.
@
Next time we will review the preparation of the Processing
report, TTB Form 5110.28, i
Jim McCoy ix Managing Constant for McCoy Alcohol € Tabacco
Compliance Consultants LLC in Cincinnati, OH, Jim served over
532 years with ATF and TTB, eablshing bis consulting frm in
2010 to asst alcool and tobaco busineses im thr efforts to mest
Federal regulatory and tax requirements. Far more information visit
swan mesconsultant com or ennailjncey@jmccoyonsultantscom
\WAWIVARTISANSPIRITMAG.COM ONLINE
neh
ane
Saal
he results are in: craft beer and artisan spirits are a hit with
the consumer! The marketplace loves the variety and the
opportunity to support local breweries and distilleries. Consumers
might even have a friend or family member who has decided to
brew their own beer or distill their own gin. The craft boon has
created jobs, brought about an increase of suppliers for dry and
wet goods, but in turn, created new challenges.
Though these challenges are a good sign for the industry, all
this choice can create clutter and confusion for the consumer
and a big challenge for the retailer. A bar only has so many
‘taps and so much back bar space. Liquor stores, particularly in
metropolitan areas, have limited shelf and storage space and the
top liquor retailers know that they need to be informed about the
products they are selling. Consumers with too many options can
start to see a blur of one big mass of “craft products” without
establishing a connection with any individual brand. Emerging
bands struggle with supply and the task of differentiating their
brand. How does retail deal withthe challenge of allocating space
on a tap, in the cold box or on the shelf for new and interesting
brands? And what can your brand do to make @ compelling case
for this coveted retail space?
Retailers see online sales as a promising, but a stil evolving
option, and are frantically working to improve their online retail
presence while integrating the online sales experience with
their store experience. Some retailers have realized online sales
provide a much needed opportunity to expand their offerings,
test what sells and to feature small batch or special products
that would not necessarily fit into their physical footprint. Liquor
stores can use the online sales option to expand their shelf
space beyond what can be stocked within their stores. Consumer
convenience and brand information are also important driving
forces in the creation of robust retail sites. Consumers can learn
about new brands and products on their own time and then
choose to order online or go to the store with their shopping list
mostly determined.
For example, Total Wine & More carries approximately 3,500
\WVWWARTISANSPIRITMAG COM
spirits brands, 8,000 wine labels and 3,000 different beers,
in each retail store. For John Jordan, the Vice President of the
Customer Division, this means that the brand needs to create
and provide brand relevant content to highlight their product in
the online store. A brand’s web page and social media presence
needs to be brand consistent and well organized. Often the
consumer has made their purchase decision by the time they
reach the store. In the case of Total Wine, their model relies on
in-store pick up instead of delivery Its goal is to be a destination
store where consumers can curate their shopping list online.
CONSTANT BRAND “DRIPPING”
Brands need to regularly analyze what is required in this
changing landscape. A great package, hang tags and shelf
talkers still play a role in the physical retail space, but the
online component significantly expands the brand requirements
to help their product sell. Realize this is not accomplished in
any one definitive moment, no single kickoff campaign or killer
tagline. You will need to constantly “drip” your brand message
and identity to the retail outlet and the end consumer. The
brand must do three fundamental things well to differentiate
themselves from other brands and drive sales:
1 A MEANINGFUL BRAND STORY
+ AND PURPOSE. This brand platform has to be
well thought out and allow for consistent consumer emotional
engagement and have multiple “hooks” to hang that on over
time. In other words the brand has to be able to live, breathe
and grow as time goes on. This is not a new concept, but the
implementation ofthis has dramatically changed. Far example, it
you are an organic brand or a brand that is delivering a ‘healthier’
option, you will want to show this in the events you choose, the
partnerships you forge and the events you sponsor. You also need
to show this living part of your brand through appropriate event
photos on Facebook and Instagram as well as through your tweets
and whom you choose to follow. Ifyou are an Irish product you will
want to te that into what your brand is doing locally. If you are a
8 ready to drink cocktail you will want to emphasize convenience
and work that into your brand narrative. The challenge today is
to create a brand that is interesting to consumers who have a
very short attention span but are very sophisticated in identifying
inconsistencies in message and actions. Your brand needs to
withstand online scrutiny (ie. ferreting out false stories andlor
Claims) and has to be able to tweet and post multiple times
each week without coming across as bland, or worse, annoying,
This ongoing “brand dripping” is not an easy process. You have
to be believable, interesting and informative. If not done with
a strong central concept, your online presence risks appearing,
fragmented and confusing, not allowing for consumer connection
with the brand,
ONE MESSAGE, A MILLION MOMENTS.
The frequent communication aspect of online branding
requires well-crafted and updated ongoing brand relevant
content, Information about the product, its production method
and its unique features must be provided to retailers for their
own ecommerce sites so that they can effectively market and
sell your product. While it is important to learn from your key
retailers what content they are looking fr, it is crucial to provide
them with the information necessary to learn about your brand,
train their staff and actively engage the consumer. Retailers
also encourage brands to provide video and other image rich
content about their product, which enhances consumer interest.
This same content can then also be used in a variety of online
social platforms and for promotional purposes and to get the end
consumer involved. Filming your production process, a tasting,
‘an event, your grain or grape harvest or even your bottling or label
application process can be interesting and make consumers feel
like they ate involved with the brand. Total Wine estimates that
its new ecommerce site will have over 40 hours of video with
plans to add more in the near future. To keep your messaging
fresh, even unchanging elements like your production process
must be explained in new ways over time to continue to engage
consumers. Consider doing seasonal pieces or focusing brand
content specifically on a variety of platforms — a series of
Pinterest photos instead of a Facebook post. Make sure that your
retailer has important content about special offerings or holiday
related content in plenty of time to integrate it and use it in
their sales material. Make sure you know their timeline to update
their online content about your brand. Updated and well-curated
content keeps your consumer interested and helps your retailer
sell, While creating this content is fun and nat complex, it does
require an investment of time and money. All efforts will require
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\WWIVARTISANSPIRITMAG.COM ‘tracking, tweaking and potentially changing direction if it does
not resonate with the end consumer.
STRUCTURED CHAOS. Once your brand
information is established on a variety of social
platforms and retail ecommerce sites which you plan to regularly
Update, keeping track of all of this can seem daunting, even
with highly specialized data and reporting from Sproutsacial or
Hootsuite, The data is only useful if you have the opportunity
and understanding to analyze it and make sense of how this is
affecting your brand, what is working well and what needs to
improve. Furthermore, the different platforms have constantly
evolving rules and tools. By June, it is unlikely that Facebook
posts will reach any significant consumer group that you have
rot paid to reach. This requires a recalibration of your strategy
and potentially a shit in emphasis or a budget change. If you are
regularly updating the retail sites with content at the same time
You are updating social media, you will need to stay organized,
make sure retailers have included the latest content and make
time to evaluate your effort,
In adaition to this, there is the external challenge of consumer
perception across multiple touch points from the low-tech shelf
talker tothe brand video on Youtube. If you are not consistent or
clear in your message, the retailer and the consumer will perceive
this disconnect, become frustrated, and give up on your brand,
At worst, they may post, tweet or blog negatively about your
brand, You can't control consumer posts, but you can ensure
that you are listening as well as talking online and respond in
fa timely, open manner by tracking your company name and
product via Google alerts or Mention. Keep in mind, you will also
attract negative responses if your brand's promises are stretched
oF outright inaccurate, Eventually, your brand “inventions” will
be uncovered — be transparent from the beginning with your
brand information. These negative posts are easily found and can
discourage a retail buyer or an end customer from purchasing
your product.
As retailers become more serious about online sales and begin
to create more complex online and offline strategies, brands will
need to stay on top of this process by providing more sales tools
to the retailer and to recognize that they have another point of
relationship with the retailer that needs to be nourished. Done
correctly, brands will have an endless shelf for their products.
Susan Mooney is CEO and founder of Spirite Consulting Group. For
‘more info, visit wrow.piritsconsulting.com or call (646) 494-4242
Stock Inventory
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Decorating
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Saxco
International
YOUR CLEAR CHOICE
FOR PREMIUM PACKAGING SOLUTIONS
For more than 25 years, Saxco Intemational has been helping distlers oeate the
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\WVWWARTISANSPIRITMAG COM
Decor.
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6 Pe
EY
AND IMPLICATIONS FOR
DISTILLED SPIRITS PRODUCERS
WRITTEN BY PATRICK HEIST, PH.D /// PHOTOGRAPHS PROVIDED BY BERM SOLUTIONS, INC
he basic ingredients used to make different distilled spirits
are well known, Rum is distilled from fermented cane sugar.
Bourbon whiskey is made with a combination of grains including,
corn, wheat or rye, and matted barley (among others). Vodka can
be distilled from a wider range of fermented starting material
including potatoes, various grains or sugar. Another ingredient
of fermentation is the yeast, responsible for taking up the sugar
and producing ethanol and other flavor components. However,
‘there is another subset of “ingredients” present in almost every
fermentation, but unlike those described above, these “other
ingredients” were not put there intentionally. These “other
ingredients” are what can be collectively referred to as microbial
contamination. These are microorganisms (most often bacteria
andior yeast) that gain access to the fermentation via the grains,
water, fermentation tanks, piping, backset, dust, and other
sources. These contaminating microbes are important for
several reasons. One of the most
significant consequences of
microbial contamination
is that it can severely
affect distillery yields
and production by
competing with the
yeast for sugars and
nutrients. Inaddition,
contaminating
(FIGURE 1) Fe
bacteria and yeast produce various organic acids and other
metabolic byproducts that can build to toxic levels, further
impacting fermentation. Apart from potentially devastating
yield and production issues, contaminating microbes can
also influence favor of the finished spirit. Here we discuss,
in detail, microbial contamination with a focus on factors
important to distillers and how this might contribute (positively
oF negatively) to the flavor profile of the finished spirit. We
will also discuss methods for prevention and control and
different ways to diagnose microbial contamination issues.
OUSE BUGS
Often when distillers talk about microbial contamination it is
done in very general terms. “House bugs” is one of the common
phrases to describe the contaminating microbes that inhabit a
distillery. Since there are literally thousands of different potential
microbes and microbe combinations in any given contamination
scenario, most of them involving wild yeast andlor bacteria,
reference to these as “house bugs” hardly seems adequate
considering the wide range of potential effects on fermentation
‘and production. In addition, “house bugs” are often touted by
distilleries as being crucial to the flavor profile of the finished
spirit. Thus, a deeper look inte what specific microbes make up
those “house bugs” is appropriate and should be done at every
distillery.
nM
\WAWIVARTISANSPIRITMAG.COM MOST
Bacteria and wild yeast that contaminate fermentation are
typically those that are found naturally in grains and water. In
cur collection of over 10,000 bacteria from over 200 different
distilleries (Figure 1), the vast majority were identified as “lactic
acid bacteria” or LAB. These include bacteria in the genera
Lactobacillus, Lactococcus, Weissella and Pediococcus, among
others, which are Gram positive (result of a staining procedure
that differentiates bacteria into two main categories based on cell
wall characteristics). Within the genus Lactobacillus are many
different species that can contaminate fermentation. Examples
include Lactobacillus fermentum, Lactobacillus delbrueckit,
and Lactobacillus brevis. Other Gram positive bacteria found
in fermentation include Enterococcus and Bacillus species.
Bacillus species ate unique because these are one of the few
bacteria known to produce endospores, survival structures that
allow them to survive adverse conditions like desiccation and
elevated temperatures, For this reason, Bacillus species are
often cultured from samples collected from high heat areas
such as during the cook process or from high temperature heat
exchangers. Gram negative bacteria found in fermentation
include Acetobacter and Gluconobacter species, but we alsa
see on occasion members of the Family Enterobacteriaceae
(Escherichia coll, Salmonella, Klebsiella, Enterobacter, etc).
Various Pseudomonas species are also found, but like other
Gram negatives are less common than their Gram positive
counterparts, Figure 2 shows examples of gram positive and
‘gram negative bacteria commonly isolated from fermentation at
different cistileries.
Apart from contaminating bacteria there are several yeast
species. Any yeast not intentionally put into fermentation are
considered “wild yeast”, which can be from several genera
including Saccharomyces, Kluyveromyces, Pichia, Candida and
\WVWWARTISANSPIRITMAG COM
Brettanomyces, to nate just afew. Wild yeast, like bacteria, can
produce toxic organic acids or other metabolic byproducts that
can affect fermentation. Examples of some of the different wild
yeasts are shown in Figure 3 and are compared to the “normal”
yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Interestingly, some of the wild
yeast that we find in fermentation that cause issues are useful in
other applications. For example, Kiuyweromyces species can be
used to ferment lactose to make ethanol. Certain Pichia species
are used to make ethanol from C5 sugars like xylose, which is,
‘component of hemicellulose, another complex plant material
found in fermentation. A Brettanomyces species that is causing
major issues at a distillery might be used to make a sour beer at
a brewery, These are good examples of how one distilery’s worst
enemy can be another distillery or brewery's greatest asset. The
same is true for many of the bacterial contaminants, as LAB are
well known and useful as probiotics. Some distilleries, rather
than making a sour mash by recycling backset, will propagate
a specific bacterium (Lactobacitius brevis, for example) in a
separate vessel and once a pre-determined pH or level of lactic
acid is reached, the culture is heat treated to kil the bacteria and
then added to fermentation.
This is an alternate
method for creating a
sour mash, PROLIFERATION OF MICROBIAL
CONTAMINATION DURING
FERMENTATION AND IMPLICATIONS
Contaminating microbes get into fermentation through several
routes described above. Our research has shown that in most
cases involving reasonable cleaning and sanitation, populations
of contaminating microbes are low in the beginning (less than
100 viable cells per mi of mash). In the case of grain-based
fermentations, thisis largely due tothe high heat used in the cook
process that initiates the breakdown of starch into fermentable
sugars. The high heat and residence time of cook significantly
reduces the total viable population of contaminating microbes
present on the starting materials. Fermentation of molasses or
cane sugar where heat is not required might start with higher
background contamination, which is a major consideration when
fermenting those feedstocks. Once these contaminatingmicrobes
rmake it into fermentation, low starting populations of bacteria and
wild yeast can grow and multiply to higher populations. 1x105
viable cells/ml and greater are what we consider to be significant
levels of microbial contamination, Any residues left behind
in_the fermentation vessels, heat exchangers, or associated
piping, can serve as a source of inoculum for the next batch
‘The higher the beginning populations, the greater the potential
for microbes to reach problematic levels during fermentation.
For this reason, the primary method for controlling microbial
contamination involves intensive cleaning and sanitation. This
means scrubbing the tanks with soap and water after each
batch or using hot caustic (sodium hydroxide). Another reason
to better understand which bacteria make up your “house bugs”
is that some are more likely to produce biofilms (Pediocaccus
spp., for example). Presence of these more prolific biofilm
producers may warrant additional, more intensive cleaning
requirements. Some of these bacteria can be pathogenic to
humans and animals, which is another reason for knowing what
kinds of contaminating microbes inhabit your distillery. On one
hand, having a homofermentative Lactobacillus species that
makes lactic acid (organic acids condense with alcohols to make
esters) may be a positive flavor contributor (and the foundation
of the sour mash process). On the other hand, if your distillery
is highly contaminated with the same bacterium that causes
diarrhea or pneumonia, that may lead to a different, maybe not
0 favorable, flavor profile (not to mention iti just gross). Apart
from fiavor contributions, high levels of microbial contamination
can cause severe production issues and yield losses because
these contaminating microbes compete with the yeast for
carbohydrates and nutrients. Lactic acid bacteria are so-called
because they ferment sugars like glucose and turn it into organic
acids like lactic and acetic acid. These organic acids reduce the
pH of the fermentation and can become toxic when they reach
certain levels. This issue is compounded in sour mash recipes
if the backsetistillage being recycled already contains elevated
levels of these or other organic acids. Once contaminating
microbes reach a certain level, one of the possible outcomes
is a stuck fermentation. In this scenario the fermentation stops
prematurely from overgrowth of contaminants, resulting in
leftover sugar and lower ethanol levels. Table 1 shows what a
‘normal fermentation looks like compared to one with significant
bacterial contamination
DIAGNOSING MICROBIAL
ONTAMINATION ISSUES
Before a distiller can diagnose a production issue, it is
necessary to know what a normal fermentation looks like 50 that
any deviations can be compared to a “normal” scenario. There are
several pieces of information collected throughout fermentation
that are helpful, the frst being pH. Since bacteria and wild yeast
can produce organic acids as byproducts, when contamination
becomes significant this results in a lower pH. Thus, it your
Perfomance Ligud Chromatography (HPLC) analysis fom a successful fermentation (R) compared to one with significant bacterial contamination (8)
High levels of organic acids (lower pk, incomplete sugar alization and lower etanol are consequences of significant microbial contamination.
LINE pas ops matrose etucose MAEM veep, ACETIC eran
AciO Aci
‘A Normal 0.464 0.111 0.245 0.012 0.110 0.699 0.013 8.598
B Bacteria 0.564 0.113 1.230 0.926 0.876 0.678 0.120 6.234
ves =lues polymers cose are F3= mls (lyme wth 3 glucose subunits
8 WOH ARTANSPIRTAAG.COM average terminal pH is
4.2 and then it drops
to 3.6 in another
batch, this may be
a sign of microbial
contamination. Sugar
utilization is another
helpful determinant, which is
measured by Brix, Balling, gravity,
ete. If your normal terminal Brix is 6.5 and now you are seeing
a terminal Brix of 8.7 (indicating leftover sugar), this is a good
indicator of an issue. Since there are other issues that can lead to
higher residual sugars (spoiled yeast, temperature issues, etc.),
coupling a high sugar reading with lower than average pH might
together help with the diagnosis (if the issue is temperature
related, you would likely not have the lower pH, for example)
The aroma of fermentation may also be an indication that there
ate issues with microbial contamination issues as bacteria and
wild yeast secrete organic acids and other metabolic byproducts
into the mash, some of which have sour or otherwise foul odors.
Other byproducts of microbial contamination can be favorable,
as discussed above.
Other more sophisticated analyses may be employed for
diagnosing and detecting microbial contamination including
analytical and microbiological methods, Plating the mash
‘onto semi-solid agar media to visualize bacteria and wild
yeast populations is one option (Figure 4). If yeast counts are
performed using @ microscope, bacteria can sometimes be seen
along with the yeast, which is another thing to look at when
‘gauging the severity of a contamination event. HPLC (High
Performance Liquid Chromatography; see Table 1) is another
technique that measures sugars, ethanol and organic acids from
a single sample. Most larger distilleries have these capabilities,
but smaller distilleries may have to rely on outside labs for these
kinds of analyses, Once microbial contamination is confirmed,
the first order of business is to seek out the deficiencies in
Cleaning, implement solutions and regain control
One of the problems with culture-based diagnosis is that it
takes 24-48 hours to perform. If you are sending the sample
to another lab for testing, sample transit time is added to the
delay. By this time the batch in question may have already
been processed. However, our experience has been that once a
distillery becomes highly contaminated, it is likely to continue
that way until strategies have been implemented to eradicate the
causative organisms (again, this is normally some improvement
\WVWWARTISANSPIRITMAG COM
to cleaning). So, even though the results may not be available
in time to save the batch that was tested, the information can
be used to implement strategies to correct the issue for benefit
of future batches. Another issue with culture-baseo approaches
is that different microbes often require different conditions
to grow. For example, some bacteria (certain Lactobacillus
species) found in distilleries require anaerobic conditions to
grow whereas others like Acetobacter require aerobic conditions.
Other factors like pH, temperature and nutritional makeup of
the growth medium can also vary for one microbe to the next.
For this reason, we are looking at molecular techniques to help
Us detail the distillery microbiome (what bacteria and yeast
are present and their populations relative to one another), This
involves extracting and/or amplifying DNA and in some cases
messenger RNA directly from the mash. This genetic material
is then sequenced and bio-informatics are employed to identity
and quantify any bacteria or yeast, even if they are present in
ow populations or are non-viable. While this testing is thorough
and can be faster than traditional culture-based methods, it
requires expensive equipment and highly trained technical staff
to run it. AS these methods are refined, they will gain utility in
the distilled spirits industry.
COSTE
It is clear from the information above that microbial
contamination plays a significant role in overall distillery
production and quality of the finished spirit. We encourage
distillers to take a deeper look into their “house bugs” to see it
‘microbial contamination is significant enough for yield loss or it
there are any microbes of concern, While many distilleries, such
as those representing well-known brands, make high quality
distillate, there may be a way to improve production and yields.
In cases where significant microbial contamination has been
Confirmed, fing the problem can sometimes result in a 10-25%
yield improvement. That can translate to a lot of extra bottles
and is a great way to increase production when compared to the
expense of a distillery expansion. Although we have only scraped
the surface of the complexities of how microbial contamination
can affect distilleries, hopefully the above information will be
useful for evaluating contamination at your distillery.
Patrick Heist, Ph.D. is chief sientf officer of Ferm Solutions Ene. and
co-founder of Wilderness Trail Distillery. For move information visit
‘wie frm-solutions net or call (859) 402-8707.
6 rrrttiiit ty
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(On February 24" in New York City,
Artisan Spirit abiended the one-day
\d Whiskies and Spirits Conference
der, the general man:
Bauder explained that h
raft distillers
affect
Inthe past,
haven't traditionally carried such a wide variety of
instead focusing on making either whisky, vodka, or
tilleries and their varied, experimental portfolios
WWWARTISANSPIRITMAG.COM SERS
are changing that. He shared his fascination with watching craft
distilleries grow and wondering whether they would be able to
stay diverse or end up focusing on smaller product lines as they
gro,
Mr. Bauder also spoke about a craft boom occurring in Ireland.
In 2012 Beam bought the last of the independent distilleries
in Ireland, Almost immediately afterward, 16 applications were
submitted to open new distilleries. Now there are 20 that are
at least in the planning stages. Irish whiskey consumption is
‘growing faster than bourbon in America, according to Mr. Bauder.
Joseph Magliocco, the president of Michter’s, was the next to
speak. He described the differences in selling bourbon and rye
cover the last few years. In recent memory they would have been
ecstatic to sell 150 bottles nationally in a month. Now they
have recently installed two new stills in order to meet demand
Magliocco attributed increased bourbon and rye sales to several
Sources: spirits writers, an on-premise sales industry (which
means bars, pubs, restaurants, etc), and whiskey focused
retailers. Writers, he said, are doing for the spirits industry
now what they did for the wine industry in the 80s, describing
‘grape varieties and how to make and enjoy fine wines. There are
also two groups he credits with increasing growth of whiskey
DISCUS and women. For future growth, he cites exporting to
foreign markets as the biggest wildcard,
Two panels took on the discussion of designing a successful
brand through visual imagery and label creation, The first was
Ivan Bell. Bellis the managing director of Stranger & Stranger,
and he shated the thought processes behind various label and
box designs for several of their customers. His stated OS
BIGEIOR|EHApE! Taking imagery trom a distillery’s facility, or
the history oftheir city, o even direct references to competition,
Bell highlighted several brand case studies that Stranger &
Stranger were able to introduce to new markets or reimagine for
increased sales.
Another group panel also discussed marketing and brand
growth, featuring James Goll from 24-Group, Susan Mooney
with Spirits Consulting Group, and Raul M. Paredes from 0-1
\WVWWARTISANSPIRITMAG COM
“Tn 2013 there were only. four daye im the year
without a new spitit brand being introduced, 1
‘group discussed ways to stand out and not get lost in the
repetitive trends that may make waves but can make a product
‘one of many instead of one of a kind. They created a fake brand
hhame and outlined the process of creating art and labels for
its various products. As an example, they discussed avoiding
putting un-aged whisky in a bottle that looks like a mason jar
with @ story about resurrecting a prohibition-era family recipe,
as there are multiple moonshines that already cover that trope.
Besides the bottle design, this group discussed the importance
of doing any little thing possible to show off your brand. They
cited making sure your brand is on the outside of the box that
your product is delivered to stores or restaurants in. Sometimes
those boxes, especially in big cities, are stacked outside a bar
before being loaded inside for people walking by to see. Small
creative things like this are ways you can get touches with
potential consumers. When dealing with a firm that is designing
your brand, they warned, don't be distant from the process. It
is your distillery and you will live the brand every day, so make
sure any design firm is doing what you want and you agree with
the direction they're going. Your input is crucial.
David Frost ofthe Scotch Whisky Association and David Ozgo
from DISCUS discussed industry trends. Mr. Frost conveyed
the legal trouble British whisky makers are running up against.
Producers are fighting heavier taxes and growing health concerns
despite growth across the market. He discussed current lawsuits
between whisky organizations and the government and has faith
that the importance of whisky for Great Britain, both historically
and economically, will prevail. Mr. Ozgo explained that 6S
He expressed that this is good for business as a whole. American
spirit exports, 70 percent of which are whiskey, are also growing,
and show continued growth into the future,
History is important to the spirits industry, and Dr. Nicholas,
Morgan gave the history of an important figure from whisky’s
past. Dr. Morgan is head of whisky outreach at Diageo and
shared the story of Peter Mackie, a Scotch whisky distiller who
helped inspire Diageo’s policies and practices that ensure a
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Consistent product from year to year. Peter Mackie helped create
the White Horse whisky brand around 1890. Besides working
for Lagavulin and loving Islay, he spent his life experimenting
‘and innovating on distilling processes. He had a lab where he
tirelessly continued to learn and understand the extent to which
whisky could be made to similar standards from batch ta batch.
He is a big reason why large brands can have a product that
tastes the same from year to year to year. Dr. Morgan stated
that although it doesn’t seem cool to like a brand like Johnnie
Walker where every bottle tastes the same, he applauds that
achievement as something to be celebrated, and says some of
Mr. Mackie's methods have made their way through the years to
Diageo's current facilities,
James Espey, OBE and founder of Keepers of the Quaich,
finished the day with great dynamism. With his over 40 years
in the spirits industry from Chivas to Malibu to Baileys Irish
Cream, Mr. Espey touted the importance of long-term planning
in order to build mainstay brands. He has a ten year rule, saying
that it takes ten years to build a brand that can last. He says
distillers need to constantly be thinking about the competition
and how to grow themselves, even when they are already growing.
His brands have launched all over the world and he says it is
important to travel and discover international markets in which
to grow your brands. He sees India and Arica as huge potential
markets due to their growing middle-class, and relayed stories
of visiting China over the years and how they are changing to be
mote receptive to imports of high-end spirits. With scotch, which
is a specialty for Mr. Espey, he says that blended is a bedrock
and has the most potential. Single malts are popular at the
moment, but he compared a single malt to a single vioin...why
listen to only a violin when you can experience a full orchestra?
For him, @ master blender is like an expert conductor, and the
results can be as magical
In his experience, he still believes in gut instinct over relying
solely on research and focus groups. When launching Baileys Irish
Cream he saw research which said it would fail. He ignored the
research and now Baileys is successful. He also wamed against
the trend of raising prices too quickly. He said he's seen some
expensive bourbon that is average, and warns of the importance
‘of maintaining price discipline. His parting thought was, [iS
you build your brands be strong, be courageous, be
patient and be international.” %
Pasi fer more information
su awbiskiesandipiritsconference.con
\WWIVARTISANSPIRITMAG.COM A CRAFTED SHIP KNOWN AS
Philadelphia
Distilling
WRITTEN BY AMBER G, CHRISTENSEN-SMITH
“Absinthe has a wonderful colour, green. A glass of absinthe is as poetical
a3 anything in the world, What difference is there between a glass of
absinthe and a sunset?”
— Oscar Wilde
OUT ON A LIMB
We see a lot of “standards” in distilling as new craft spirit producers will
often start with comfortable and safe products that are surely to be likable
and purchased by the average consumer, Over time, however, we've seen
mote and more craft cistilers stretching out on the proverbial limb to create
items that are not only well-crafted, but will also arouse the curiosity of
consumers that discover the newness of an unconventional sprit
Philadelphia Distilling may have one of the most diverse portfolios of spirits
we've come across to date. Andrew Auwerda, the president and co-founder
of Philadelphia Distilling, is @ seasoned businessman who relishes
opportunities that present new challenges. “I get very pumped up
about a wide range of things...from new markets we enter, to new
spirits we launch, to press and awareness we create.” The
adventure is always blooming for Auwerda.
And speaking of adventurous, Philadelphia Distiling
has five different labels in its portfolio. Auwerda
shares, "We are constantly tinkering and developing
new spirits and variations on our existing line.”
On the traditional side, there is Shine, The
Bay, and Penn 1681, which boast whiskies
PO Sc B and vodka, respectively. In the mid range, there is the beautifully
labeled and well-crafted Bluecoat, which consists of an American
dry gin and the same gin barrel finished in American Oak.
But most interesting to note is Philadelphia's fantastic Vieux
Carré, an absinthe that is an awesome portfolio finisher. Absinthe,
a traditional French concoction, has the distinct flavor of licorice
and 2 green color that comes from botanicals such as wormwood,
anise, and fennel, and is classically consumed with a Pontarlier
glass, water, and an absinthe spoon holding sugar cubes that the
liquid is poured through. “We were the second distillery in the
country to distill, bottle, and sell our domestically made absinthe
in the USA after its legalization. It has been very well received
both on a critical level and consumer level. While the category is.
quite small, we feel it adds to our portfolio and works well with
our flagship, Bluecoat.” While going out on a limb to create a
spirit with deep roots and tradition, Auwerda said he would not
miss an opportunity or a great challenge lke that of creating an
absinthe, “We feel i's a great compliment to our portfolio and
shows off the skills of our talented distilling team.”
REACHING ACROSS SEAS
As of recent, Auwerda has been working with his label to
jump barriers and dive into foreign markets. He notes while
there are obvious barriers of sizing, labeling, shipping, logistics,
and language, the biggest hurdle is finding quality distributors,
overseas. “Our most difficult challenge has been the ability to
identify quality distributors in each market that truly understand
the goal of the brand and company and are willing to be patient
and build awareness over time with the targeted demographic
within their market.” Currently, Philadelphia Distilling has been
able to get its Bluecoat label to Australia, Bermuda, Shanghai,
and a smattering of places across Europe, Auwerda confirms
that finding a local distributor is indeed the big challenge each
time—and attracting capital for distribution.
Reaching forward to overseas markets can be a challenge
for anyone. Luckily, DISCUS and its programs have helped
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\WWIVARTISANSPIRITMAG.COM Philadelphia Distilling bridge North America and export products
into foreign markets, gaining exposure through international trade
shows. Additionally, East West Advisors Group—also located in
Philadelphia—has assisted in their movement across seas. While
only five percent of their market is foreign currently, Auwerda
says, “We have established a firm margin forall foreign markets.
While the gross margin is smaller than our domestic margin,
the net margin ends up about the same.” And if you're seeking
foreign markets, Auwerda advises, “Find the right partners! Be
patient and structure the agreement for @ long term win-win
relationshi
SAILING THE SHIP FORWARD
Building strong business structures is important to Auwerda.
He believes in having rigorous quality control and high quality
ingredients, In house, Philadelphia Distling does their own
rmilling, mashing, fermenting, distilling, bottling, blending,
proofing and labeling. Sometimes they do use GNS, but as most
distillers would tell you this becomes necessary as demand
increases and distillery growth cannct keep up. For the future,
‘Auwerda wishes to expand the distillery and to continue creating
amazing products. It's important to raise capital and keep
building relationships with customers to gain more support and
growth for thelr distillery.
‘Auwerda also Keeps active in the distilling community by
collaborating with other distillers and brewers—they are currently
working on creating a whiskey with a brewery and by creating
ialogue with consumers to build support for their products, For
the future, Auwerda has high hopes for Philadelphia Distilling. “I
love the fact that no day i like the next or last. Every day presents
new opportunities, new challenges and obstacles to go around.
| am fully motivated and feel bullish on what we have learned
in the past and how we will tackle and win in the future.”
Philadelphia Distilling is located in Philadelphia, PA. For more info
‘visit wear philadelpBiadisiing com or call (215) 671-0346.
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6
\WVWWARTISANSPIRITMAG COM : nent Ma
Uta oti
Se t's not news to anyone that the
boom in craft distilling operations
across the U.S. has left industry
suppliers of all types in a sellers
market. In the past three years
alone, the number of ‘identified
distilleries has risen 250 percent,
going from 234 operations in 45
states in 2011, to nearly 600 in
50 states plus Puerto Rico, by the end of 2014. Companies
ew and established are stepping up to service the wave of
new distillers, often leading to lower prices, better access to
equipment, and superior service. However, along with the wave
Tides the danger of exploitation; Less reputable forces looking to
feed off the passion that accompanies the industry
Right or wrong, the burden of research falls squarely on the
shoulders of the distillery owner. Prospective startups, and
even those ready to expand, have to watch out for companies
overstating their capabilities. “We got our license in 2004,”
says Tom Burkleaux, owner of New Deal Distilling in Portland,
Oregon. “Back then we had the room for everything to go wrong.
But with the competition today, you have to limit your mistakes
to succeed.” Know what you want
before you talk to a manufacturer,
he says. It can begin with simple
“KNOWING WHAT YOU WANT CAN BEGIN WITH
SIMPLE RESEARCH. DO YOU NEED A ROUND
BOTTOM STILL, OR WILL A FLAT BOTTOM D0?”
— TOM BURKLEAUX, NEW DEAL DISTILLING, PORTLAND, OREGON
HERE ARE SOME OF THE BEST QUESTIONS
TO SCREEN FOR AN EQUIPMENT
MANUFACTURER THAT's RIGHT FOR YOU.
“First off,” says de Amblia, “go straight to the owner of the
company. Then ask questions that are open ended, not just ones that
zeta yes or no. For example, ‘Can your equipment be expanded
con?’ That'll get you a ‘yes.’ The better question is, ‘How do
you allow for expansion?’ This reveals more about their design
process. Remember, you are looking forthe quality of the answer,
not just the answer itself.”
Tell me about your
experience building
research.
Now, what questions should
you be asking, and what research
will provide you with the most
effective decision making tools? “A
manufacturer must understand the
distilling. process,” says Guinevere
de Amblia, owner of Global Stainless
Systems (GSS), manufacturer of
distilling and brewing equipment in
Canby, Oregon. “They don’t have to
know distilling from top to bottom,
but they better be able to address
the countless issues that come up
‘when building a distiller’ vision of
a system.” This includes layout to
heat source options, the distillers
processing preferences, future
expansion and more. According to de
‘Amblia, your manufacturer should
be your best equipment consultant.
\WVWWARTISANSPIRITMAG COM
BEFORE YOU PICK UP THE PHONE AND
TALK TO AN EQUIPMENT MANUFACTURER.
NOW WHAT FEATURES YOU WANT. Visit
as many distilleries 2s you can, Craft
distilors area different breed, Most want
to share what they know. Ask them what
they would do the same or diferenty it
they were purchasing equipment today.
TAKE A COURSE ON CRAFT DISTILLIRG. For
‘example, the American Distiling Institute has
‘conference workshops, while Corel! University
Enology Extension, and Wisconsin's Ethanol
Technology Institute have ful distin programs.
0 TO THE TRADE SHOWS. Its the best way to
learn trom ater distillers and to meet prospective
‘manufacturers face to fae, Plus, manufacturers
‘often have mor time to answer questions at trade
shows than they do back in their ovr-busy hops.
tanks and stills.
A. Time and experience equals skill,
simple as that. The company's website
can tell you about their history, but
you want to know about the craftsmen,
You don't want to hear, ‘I've been
welding for 20 years.” Specifically
ask, how long have you been working
with copper? With stainless? In other
words, what kind of equipment have
you designed and built over your
career? It should involve tanks and
stills, not just auto body work,
What do you know about
the field of craft distilling?
A. They should know the basics
Building and designing an efficient
system means understanding what's
in the distillers head, and bending,
fitting and welding metal to meet that
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vision. A good fabricator will know how to strearnline the building
process because there’s a common language going on between
them about the distillation process. An even better question is
How do you fee! about the industry? Keep your ears open for
excitement in their voice. This will tell you whether the fabricator
is actually contributing well-built equipment to this successful
and evolving trade, or justin it for the money.
Q I want to make whiskey and vodka
and rum and gin, Can you build one
system that makes all of those?
A. The word “craft” itself implies individuals thinking outside
the box, and finding ways to make their recipes and processes
possible so their results have their own mark. So while some
distillers believe that one kind of still is best for one kind of
spirits, others want diversity. The answer should be yes, we can
accommodate that, and here's how, and here is what it means
for your products.
Q Will you charge me for the special design?
‘A. There should be no charge for simple modifications. More
capacity and more diversity does means a bigger budget. But
a fabricator who's been in the business long enough will have
already designed how to adapt the peripherals. For example, they
will be capable of moving a botanicals basket inside or outside
the column, or even how to make the side column attach or
remove easily, depending on the need
Q Can | get a detailed description of
what you offer?
‘A. Every manufacturer should have a generic equipment list. It's
the combination of options that makes every system unique.
Q How does your product stand out from
the competition?
‘A. This is a good question to ask ather distillers before you
connect with a manufacturer. Fabricators are known for their
specialties, or their downfalls. That's how reputations are built
Q How will | know quality?
A. Quality in material i one thing, but quality in manufacturing
is another, It lasts. Ask the builder what's the longest running
piece of equipment they have out there today, and for whom.
\WWIVARTISANSPIRITMAG.COM Then go talk to them. You're looking for what quality looks like
to different distillers, not just one opinion. Ask what makes their
system work, what doesn’t, what makes it window worthy and
what they would do differently
Do you manufacture all your products, or
lo you outsource/import tanks and stills?
A.A isting system is either made in America as much as
possible, of it ist. This doesn't include small castings for
smaller parts that, like electronics, are made allover the world
Today when companies state that their products are made in
America, it means that they're manufactured here with U.S.
labor, creating jobs for our local, if not national, economy.
Q How much time should | allow for manufacturing?
A. Fabrication is measured in weeks, depending on the system
But what you'll be up against in this wild upturn is the calendar.
Good manufacturers may have to put you out three or more
months. This is why it's important to commit to equipment as
soon as you can. You want it to come together so that when your
license, permits and building are ready, your equipment shows up,
Q Do | need an overall consultant?
[A There are good ones out there and they are very expensive, top
notch firms for big enterprises with million dollar-plus budgets.
I you need help, pick consultants in their specialized fields,
distilling, bottling/packaging, building, electrical, and so on. But
‘none of them knows equipment like an equipment manufacturer.
They should be your best equipment consultants.
Obviously cost is one of the largest parts of the equation,
too. But the bottom line doesn't always tell you the whole story
about what you can expect from a manufacturer. Well-esearched
questions give manufacturers the accurate impression that you
are a savy, well-educated buyer who deserves expert advice,
good customer service, quality custom-made systems they will
stand behind—and a good price. #f
Guinevere de Amblia is President of Global Stainless Systems, Ine. in
Canby, OR. For mare info, visit cow glebaltainlesssystems.comn or
call (503) 407-8514.
\WVWWARTISANSPIRITMAG COM
ee eae oe
on quality/will age his
wiskey, his wine and other
specialties in wood barrels.
anihon
An Thon ryanulacturers all
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raking a barrel.”
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staves, the heads, the lid and the hoops.
up through the assembly of the barrels
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prodicing machinery for
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TEL: (@19}04.5497 FAX (919)
~ ) didn't initially e a distiller,
I'm guessing may be similar to many
ith a job that e
was “to to leave,” | was well paid, ha
benefits — an 7 martial
new place in it. Who knew tl
entice distil
Two months after surgery, | launched a new website
led LikeYourLiquor.com, dedicated to spreading the
red through
| wanted people to knc
with the great hoo
tle. | began
's Histo
s with Troy Ball of Asheville Distilling
months later, | met with Troy
1 distillers in North Carolina, as a spirits
and Taking the
of Asheville Distilling Company, | knew
wanted to do more than write about spirits, |
wanted to put my hand on a still and say, “I
made this bottle of whiskey.” But with no
formal trainin er prac r
T-want to empower more-women
fin the industry, and was looking
for ways. to do it, Working
with Jeanne on the Dames of
Distillation, I knew she was a
“get the task done” kinda girl,
with a good work ethic, someone
who could wear any number of
hate. An apprenticeship is a
great way to bring on someone
mew. While there are. some
avenues for formal education,
moat training is hands-on, eince
each distillery is differenit. T took
a chance, and it’s paid off for our
distillery!
\WVWWARTISANSPIRITMAG.COM
“Leap and the net will appear” is a quote by
J American naturalist, John Burroughs. | had the basis
of a plan, but nothing concrete, And then a ten minute conversation with Ball
forever changed my life
Ball mentioned she was looking for help at the distillery, and though | had no
real experience, | asked her what it would take to be considered. Why not? The
worst she could say was no, and I'd likely gain insight on what else | needed
to do to become a more viable candidate. Troy commented that this jab is very
mechanical. In a previous life, ! was a jet engine mechanic for the United St
Marine Corps, which helped me bridge the gap in my distilling experience. I'd
assumed the job would be very physical — distilling isn’t the glamorous job
that Hollywood stars make it look like in commercials. But the satisfaction that
comes from making something with my hands outweighs the tired muscles and
occasional bruises that | have atthe end of a production day.
Was | perfect my first day onthe job? Nope. Is anyone on their frst day? | doubt
it. learned at least one thing new every day, if not five, Sometimes, | relearn
yesterday's new thing again si day can be a little different. But I've also
found that my experience outside the distilling industry has value, and can give a
new perspective on things. Some say, “If it ain't broke, don't fix.” Just because
i’s not broken, doesn't mean something can’t be improved!
The fist time | was left alone with the still was more than a little terrifying
Wait, what does that valve do? When should | turn the condenser water up? And
ce ead now that | think about it, it was possibly as terrifying for
AhesileDistling Company: the new kd et alone with
the stl that keeps the whole operation afta! But armed
Yavensare its? Sorensen) with extensive nets taken curing traning, checklists and
vat are you ROPE 200% at Even ity do f course, phone numbers in case | couldn't figure it out
_ sr vate GMMR succesfully Snished the dstilation, While it con be
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sand ise May nerve-wracking for everyone, it’s called hands-on training
tire at apprentice te HE
for a reason — you can’t learn until you do it.
fe begins at the end of your comfort zone. Every day
ake up and can get out of bed is a day to make
you
something happen,
ther it’s joining the ever-growing
ranks of the craft distilling industry, or sharing the
knowledge you've gained with someone wha wants
today’s the day you can make that happen.
marketing expert. Her specialty
rye or goad ole
3.
apr
this a learning oP
it bourbon
value, athe!
sre hae American aobiskey. She can be fend at LikeYourLigquoncom,
a of AIH PT a PancakesandlWBia ng the aisles ofa liquor tor
veamor roi yoyo a f E
for tl oT
Sea:
( Online marketing and social media are a great way to
reach your demographic. Again, when you give the city a
quality product, they will brag about it to everyone (echo
chamber). They are our Black Button Ambassadors and
Wword of mouth is a vital aspect of our success, as well
» PR is huge. Creating conversations and beneficial
relationships and providing Rochester with alternatives
to their usual cocktails is extremely important. Creating
a sense of community around our brand makes us a very
likable company.
MANAGE/AND MAINTAIN GROWTH: The 210 barrels
‘of bourbon aging in our warehouse today represent a huge
investment on the part of our company and the payoff is
still years away. While year one was mostly about scaling our
manufacturing capacity and capability, year two is shaping up
ta be an exercise in growing sustainable and consistent sales.
Each market has its own quirks and each account has it's own
needs. As you grow, managing each of these requirements
becomes an ever-increasing project and you need more hands
to manage it.
WHAT WOULD WE DO DIFFERENTLY?
> Larger tasting room. It's all about the experience. Giving
our consumers multiple opportunities and giving them
more space to have the “Black Button” experience is
important and would serve us better.
» Wouldn't make vodka, just focus on gin and whiskey.
The world doesn’t need another vodka. Gin and whiskey
have the opportunity for much greater variation of taste
and in essences adding something to the conversation.
» Put more bourbon down the day we opened so we would
have more now. If you never make the investment to lay
it down you never get to reap the rewards of selling it.
In the end, hard work pays off. The late nights, the phone
calls, and even the headaches are all worth the success in the
fend, This is an exciting industry to be in right now and it is
worth the fight for us. We're proud to be a growing New York
state craft distillery and we hope you'll follow our story as we
Live Large in Small Batches.
Jason Barret is oxoner and head distiller of Black Button Distilling in
Rochester, NY. For more info visie wurw blackButtondistlling.cam 0
call (585) 730-4512.
\WVWWARTISANSPIRITMAG COM
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9 TEQUILA 101
WRITTEN BY ANY BROWNSTEIN 2 LISA BARLOW
hen you think of tequila, what comes to mind? For many
people, it's the old saying: tequila makes your clothes come
off. However, cheesy marketing sentiment neglects to show
the historic and detailed process of creating tequila, one that
‘frequently results in a classic sipping alcohol that will ensure
your clothes stay on.
For centuries the Aztecs drank the fermented juice of the
agave plant for religious and curative purposes. The agave plant
is widely held to be a git from the gods and is used to produce
‘tequila, Contrary to popular belief, the agave plant isa relative of
the lily, not the cactus, and is actualy classified as a succulent.
GETTING TO THE ROOT OF IT
The process of making tequila is just
as stringent as that of cognac, scotch,
or champagne. It all begins with Agave
tequiliana Weber, better known as blue
agave. “Red” soil is the
‘most optimal for growing
the blue agave because of
its richness in iron and other
properties.
The volcanic
soil in the state of
Jalisco, Mexico, and
the Highlands region
— even more so — are
rich in minerals and are thus prime areas for growing agave.
Crops grown at high altitude in red soil often produce a large,
sweet, flavorful pifia (core of the agave plant) with witich to make
‘tequila. On the other hand, agave plants grown in the lowlands
yield tequila that tends to be more herbaceous and earthy.
The blue agave plant has a single lifespan; it can only be
harvested once. After it is cut, a new one must be planted in its
place. The blue takes up to 12 years to reach full maturity, and
premium tequila will often take 16 years to produce.
Agave plants require lots of attention and nurturing. Secrets
and knowledge about caring for and harvesting agave plants are
passed down through generations. Family tips and tricks have
been shared since the times of Ancient Mexico and have become
an essential part of the tequila process, Those who grow and
harvest the agave plant are known as “jimadores.” During the
harvest season, jimadores use coas, long, machete-like rounded
knives, to cut the leaves off the agave plant and to separate the
plant from its roots.
PURIST STYLE PROCESS
‘After the agave is harvested, it is cut into halves and then
quarters before being placed into a brick oven (horno) for slow
cooking over the course of 50 to 72 hours. Some more modern
facilities have autoclaves that speed up the process through
steam pressure-cooking, reducing the time to 12 to 18 hours.
‘Once the cooking process is completed, the agave is cooled for
24 to 36 hours and placed on conveyors for shredding, tearing
WWIVARTISANSPIRITMAG.COM. and rinsing before the juice is extracted. The juice is then
siphoned into stainless steel vats for fermentation, During
fermentation, the natural yeasts in the agave sugar turn the
juice into alcohol. Seven kilos of pitfa are needed to produce
one liter of juice, and the average pita holds two to five liters
of juice
DISTILLING: IT'S A BIG DEAL
Different types of tequila are a result of varying distillation
processes. Some tequila companies double distil their tequila
before immediately bottling it. Silver, Blanco, and Platino are
Popular names of the twice-distilled variety. To produce @
very clean sipping Blanco, the heads and tals of the distilled
juice are cut during the second round of distillation
For an aged tequila, the agave juice is placed in a barrel
of the producer's choice. Popular barrels are American Oak,
French Oak, and previously used Bourbon Barrels.
For many people, the most well-known tequila styles are
Blanco, Reposado, and Anejo, each produced differently to
create a unique and fiavorful alcohol. Blanco tequila has not
been aged and is bottled immediately following distillation,
Reposado tequila rests in a barrel of choice for one to nine
months, and Anejo tequila ages in a bartel of choice for one
to three years.
Unless you're a tequila aficionado, you probably did not
realize that some of the tequila on the market is a misto, or
an impure form of the spirit, Pure tequila is 100 percent blue
agave, whereas a mixto can contain as litle as 51 percent
blue agave. To be a true tequila, the spirit needs to be grown,
addressed, and bottled in Mexico. The Tequila Regulatory
Council (CRT) oversees the production, bottling, and labeling
of tequila. It protects the standards of the tequila process
and the integrity of the goods.
WAYS TO ENJOY TEQUILA
The ways to enjoy a beautiful tequila are endless. Try using
a snifter or Reidel for sipping, or include the spirit in your
favorite cocktail — pair Blanco in a Cosmopolitan or Paloma,
Reposado in @ Margarita, or Anejo in a Manhattan, When the
spirit is great, your drink will be, too. 4
Lika Barlow is co-owoner of Vida Tequila. Far more information,
wisir waru.cidareguita.com,
WVWWARTISANSPIRITMAG COM
jelinekcorkgroup
912-234-2530 » JELINEK.COM
101 a
&
s the craft spirits industry grows, so too are the cottage
industries around it taking advantage of the opportunity
to expand and evolve. Among the creators turning passion for
spirits into growing fringe market is Brad Feather, creator of
Kina Tonic. This tonic concentrate, sold in volumes not much
bigger than most bitters, is his take on a handmade craft mixer,
Based in Seattle, Bradley turned a Kickstarter campaign into
this successful side business. Part of his inspiration, he says,
came while working at Sound Spirits Distillery (which he still
works at part time). He was put off by seeing customers mixing
premium gins with poor tonics: “Afterall of the time struggling
to make a perfectly balanced malt-based aromatic gin, folks stil
go and dump a half a can of store brand diet tonic on top of it
It just blew me away.” While he doesn't blame consumers for
nat knowing about tonic-alternatives, his goal isto help educate
more people about craft mixer options in order to improve their
drinking experience.
So where did Brad get the idea that tonic can be better than
the mass-produced stuff bought at the store? During his younger
drinking years, gin and tonics were one of the first cocktails he
learned to enjoy. After working in the alcoholic beverage industry
and evolving his palate, he says, “frankly, they just started
to taste like hell.” Brad searched online for a variety of tonic
recipes, tried several, and was underwhelmed. “Most were way
out of balance, but definitely changed my outlook on what a tonic
02
could actually taste like.” Brad's knowledge of the evolution of
gin and tonics also helps drive him to develop tonic’s stale flavor
into something more worthy of its history. He has researched
quinine’s (the base ingredient of most tonics) use as medicine
against malaria and its evolution into an ingredient used by the
British East India Company, saying, “That's my favorite of the
stories, because it's the only reason we still consume G&T's
today.” After quinine stopped being useful as an anti-malaria
drug, its popularity didn’t subside, Part of the reason for that was
‘a common method of taking the medicine was mixing it with gin,
While quinine is the essential ingredient in a tonic, there are
wide variety of recipes and ratios that exist between different
brands. Brad is proud to say that Cinchona Bark (or Kina Bark),
witich is the source of Quinine, makes up 90% of his spice bill
That is unique among tonics. “In fact,” he says, “I only have
two other spices included in the whole damn recipe.” While
he doesn't reveal his entire process, he does say he sources
Cinchona from a region of the world that has historically grown
it for medicinal purposes. While the farm supplying his cinchona
bark has invited Brad to visit, @ personal trip hasn't been viable
yet. But he has been able to tly to other places around the world
to test ingredients for upcoming, unannounced products.
Brad is proud of what he believes makes his tonic worthy
among other craft spirits. He said, “my tonic is handmade from
the ground up. Hell, the only machine | have is a tiny pump.”
\WWIVARTISANSPIRITMAG.COM Friends help him fill bottles, which he inspects one by one. His
ingredients are imported directly to him. Brad told us, “If that
ain't craft, | don’t know what is.” The success of Kina Tonic
means competitors have started to pop up, which means he
wouldn’t tell us the details of his production process, but he
stands behind being called craft.
Part of the beauty of the craft spirits industry is the spreading
of a product based on word of mauth because of its quality. It is
the same with this tonic, which Brad says is mostly marketed by
word of mouth: "I ty to attend as many trade-shows as possible
and visitas many retailers and bartenders as | have time fr.” Like
many other craft distillers, Brad understands the marketing that
matters, saying, “My best salesmen are my happy customers.”
According to Brad, bartenders and distillers are far more valuable
than most marketing campaigns.
‘Among the rest of the distilling community, Brad's tonic has
been a hit. Brad told us “Distilleries have really been huge
supporters of my business, since most of them are producing gin
and they have the same reservations about cheap modern tonic
waters.” But distilleries can also benefit directly from supporting,
Kina tonic: “The tonic also sells like hot cakes out of tasting
rooms...You'd be surprised how many tasting room customers
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\WVWWARTISANSPIRITMAG COM
add on a bottle of tonic with their purchase of a bottle of gin or
vodka,” and selling this tonic can boost a tasting room's bottom
line. “Most of my distillery accounts outsell my regular retail
accounts threefold.” Customers can’t help but be curious about
a new type of tonic, and making it readily available helps spread
the word about craft mixers.
Besides his standard Kina Tonic, Brad offers a bourbon barrel
aged tonic, as well. Bradley's Tonic Company also has several
products in development, He told us, “some are in the same
vein as the tonic syrup, while some are more cocktail syrups.
to be used by the home enthusiast.” Brad's prediction for the
immediate future of craft mixers is that once the craft cocktail
boom dies down a little, people will revert to making simpler
drinks: “I'm betting on the craze slowing down some and people
really getting into simpler cocktails with quality ingredients as
‘opposed to complicated cocktails with seven plus ingredients,
This is why I've invested so much in such a simple product.” No
matter how convoluted people make their drinks, we don't think
they can go wrong adding this craft tonic to their home bars.
Bradley: Tonic Company ix based in Seattle, WA, For more in
ww tinatoniecom or call (270) 519-1629.
103 ‘As we move into a whole new industry of craft distilling, and in light of recent
events, it's clear that safety is something that needs to be addressed. Here
‘are some tips for general safety in a distillery, and also what materials and
equipment should and shouldn't be used,
GENERAL SAFETY TIPS:
The number one hazard in the that are close at hand and they
distillery is ignition sources and should be rated to put out ethanol
your still, When yourstillisrunning fires. Most need to be re-certitied
there should not be ANY equipment once a year.
around or in the distillery running
that_is__not_explosion_proof. posted clearly by each phone. This
whatsoever. Keep windows or doors should include, but Is not limited
‘open for ventilation to prevent tg, 91], Poison Control and
vapors from building up.
Keep emergency phone numbers
EMS. You should also have a fully
Your distillery should be properly stacked and organized first aid kit
equipped with fire extinguishers in its proper place.
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104 \WWIVARTISANSPIRITMAG.COM Make sure all exits are clearly marked and
all employees know what to do in case of an
As I've said in previous articles,
virtually no equipment is made
‘emergency. Glass HeeaN(OeRAI) for our industry off the shelf,
rerrereTs i§§ i lntcuulon
handle_and clean up spills. Have an eye Polypropylene Tlanium aay sine viene ahi iataral
wash station and a spill kit and procedure UUMMPE BH DBNSI Ninn Sie? Bere is safe. I | can't get an answer
for cleanup: for example, don't soak rags in [lsum ee | rem tro snavacter ther Ti
‘ethanol and then leave them inside or piled up UIDPELANDENSH (leaf) change out the suspected part
Inacomer, ene Cast Brome for use one | am sure of, For
‘When the still is running it should NEVER be Santoprene Nor (Some iter ‘example, when | get HDPE push:
left unattended. Pay attention the entire time, ton Biateatemade Ny) to-connect fittings trom Home
don’t get involved with atask so consuming that PTFE Cefon) fereita) Depot, | change out the o-rings
you are not paying attention to the stil. The en Ceramic with silicone o-ings that are
running till is your job at the time, nothing else. BOUND orange, which makes it easy to
Altilsshould have apressue ree vabe and UUM Gee tiga ‘ws as eon hanged out
2 pressure gauge. The pressure gauge should naan oe To the left is a list of usable
be inspected at regular intervals to make sure gy eters | find acceptable in
it's working correctly. You can either remove the ia SineeertOKpat) 2 listillery. If ever in doubt
THOREAPARHEY] consult someone who knows or
‘gauge and pressurize it with an air compressor,
‘or pressurize your still if your stil can handle 5
PSI, But also remember if you take the gauge
off, you need to do a leak check on it to make sure vapors
‘cannot come out. And the most important part: when running
the still, if that PSI gauge shows anything other than zero,
shut off the still immediately end open up the tank to relieve
the pressure, Turn off the heat to the still and open up @
rmanway or some other means to relieve the pressure of the
main tank.
Never fil still more than 75 percent full, especialy when
distilling grain, which can plug up your column if you're not
‘operating the still correctly, thereby allowing the stil to build
up pressure
We
SOLU
2 Chemical Resistance Chart
(Cole-Palmer has an excellent
one online). There are some materials they consider safe, but,
1 wouldn't use, especially with high proof alcohol (uch as
Buna-N, PVC, Cast Iron, Aluminum, Rubber, ABS Plastic, etc).
In the end, what matters is that you're paying attention to
what you're doing. Have actionable plans in place to protect you
and your investment. Most ofall get the proper training and ask
for help if you need it. We are in the business of making craft
alcoho We want te sell wellmade products made with proper
equipment. §§
Garter Raff is oxomer and master distiller of Raf Distiller in San
Francisco, CA. Visit ews rafdictilerie.com for mere inférmation.
‘Oné-Stop-Resource for High Quality Spirit Producti
‘Over 200 yeast strains;
[Distillery start up services
__ Optimization servi
“whiskey, vodka, ruim,NGS” = inashbils, procedures Analytical laB
(pure cultufe or active dty yeast) “employee training zd improve og
“ S = problem solving
‘www-fern-solutions.com siohes Gerr-
