TESTING COLOR FASTNESS

COLOR FASTNESS
That property of a pigment or dye, or the leather, cloth, paper, ink, etc., containing the coloring matter, to retain its original hue, especially without fading, running, or changing when wetted, washed, cleaned; or stored under normal conditions when exposed to light, heat, or other influences.

IMPORTANCE OF TESTING COLOR FASTNESS

The color of a textile is the most important attribute in terms of marketing
Adds to the garment quality Determines the durability of fabric Mandatory for fabrics to be colorfast as per usage.

NEED FOR TESTING

To estimate the quality parameters
To standardize To meet company standards To adhere to customer requirements

DYES AND THEIR FASTNESS PROPERTY

Basic (Cationic) Used for acrylics, modacrylics, polyester, nylon, also cellulosic and protein fibers.

Bright shades with excellent fastness to light, laundering, perspiration, and crocking on manufacturing fibers. Good fastness to dry-cleaning, water and sea water for acrylics.
Very poor fastness to washing and light on cellulosic and protein fibers.

DYES AND THEIR FASTNESS PROPERTY

Acid Dyes Used for Protein fibers, nylon, spandex, acrylics, and modacrylics.

Bright colors; Most are not fast to washing.

Vary from poor to good in fastness to light and perspiration. Excellent fastness to crocking and good to dry cleaning. Bleeds easily; stains adjacent fibers.

DYES AND THEIR FASTNESS PROPERTY

Pre- Metalized Acid Dyes Primarily used for protein fibers, also for nylon, spandex.

Good to excellent fastness to light and crocking. Fastness to laundering and sea water varies from fair to good.

Good fastness to dry cleaning.

DYES AND THEIR FASTNESS PROPERTY

Mordant Dyes Primarily used on wool; also silk, nylons, acrylics , cellulose fibers.

Very good to excellent fastness to light.

Fastness to washing and dry cleaning varies from fair to good.

Good fastness to perspiration and sea water.

DYES AND THEIR FASTNESS PROPERTY

Azoic Dyes Primarily for cotton; limited use on acetate.

Good to excellent fastness to light, depending on type, shade, depth. Good fastness to washing, dry cleaning, hot pressing and perspiration. Sometimes stain adjacent whites; some bleed in preoxide bleach. Fastness to crocking depends on dyeing technique and after treatment.

DYES AND THEIR FASTNESS PROPERTY

Disperse Dyes Primarily for acetate; also triacetate, nylons, polyesters, acrylics, modacrylics, olefins.

Fair to excellent fastness to light, depending on fiber.

Fair to good fastness; better on polyesters then on acetate or nylons.

Depending on fiber poor to good resistance to gas fumes.

DYES AND THEIR FASTNESS PROPERTY

Sulfur Dyes Used for cellulosics fibers.

Fastness to light poor to fair for yellows and browns; good to excellent in darker shades. Poor to good washing fastness; most sensitive to chlorine bleach. Good fastness to perspiration, hot pressing and dry cleaning. Poor to good crocking fastness, depending on shade, depth.

DYES AND THEIR FASTNESS PROPERTY

Vat Dyes Primarily on cotton, also on wool.

Excellent fastness to light. Good fastness to perspiration, sea water, laundering and dry cleaning. Fastness to crocking fair to good, depending on dye, depth of shade.

DYES AND THEIR FASTNESS PROPERTY

Reactive Dyes

Primarily on cotton; some suitable for wool, silk, nylons, acrylics, and blends.

Fastness to light good to very good on most fibers, poor to moderate on nylon.

Good washing fastness, generally sensitive to chlorine bleach.

Also good fastness to dry cleaning, crocking, perspiration and sea water.

TEXTILE STANDARDS AND REQUIREMENTS

TEST REQUIREMENTS

Dimensional stability to washing woven fabrics

length: +/- 3% width: +/- 3% length:+/- 5% width: +/- 5%

knitted fabrics

Color fastness to washing

color staining: 3-4 change in color: 4 cross staining: 4-5 change in color : 5

Color fastness to artificial light (Xenontest)

TEXTILE STANDARDS AND REQUIREMENTS

TEST REQUIREMENTS Color fastness to rubbing dry: 3-4 wet:3 color staining: 3-4 change in color: 4 cross staining: 4-5 color staining : 3-4 change in color : 4 cross staining : 4-5 color staining : 3-4 change in color : 4 cross staining : 4-5

Color fastness to chlorinated water (swimming-pool water)

Color fastness to sea water

Color fastness to perspiration

COLOR CABINET TESTER

CLASSIFICATION OF COLOR FASTNESS

Light fastness
Washing fastness

Rubbing fastness
Perspiration fastness

Drycleaning fastness

TESTING LIGHT FASTNESS

The purpose of this test is to determine how much the color will fade when exposed to a known light source.
The proper test method is AATCC Test Method 16. Option A uses a Carbon Arc light source while Option E uses the more popular Xenon light source. The option used will depend on the equipment available. The test duration will be 10 AATCC fade units minimum for both colors and whites unless otherwise specified.

TESTING LIGHT FASTNESS

10 AATCC fade units are the equivalent to 2.5 to 3 continuous twenty four hour days of direct sunlight while 20 AATCC fade units are equivalent to 5-6 days of direct sunlight.
The evaluation will be done as described in the test method with the exception of whites.

Whites will be evaluated with the AATCC Gray Scale for Staining because the issue is more often yellowing of the white color.

COLOR MATCHING CABINET

This cabinet uses certain light sources to determine changes in fabric in three areas using three separate scales:

AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC Gray Scale for Staining AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale

Tests that create situations in which color change must be evaluated include: Launder-O-meter Weather-O-meter Crocking Perspiration

COLOR MATCHING CABINET

TESTING WASHING FASTNESS

This test evaluates colorfastness and staining potential of fabrics under accelerated wash condition that simulate five home washings. Five separate methods test different home washing conditions.
Test options include: 1A Evaluates colorfastness of textiles that will undergo hand washing. 2A For fabrics that are expected to withstand repeated low-temperature machine washings. 3A Looks at fabrics that are considered washable under vigorous activities. 4A Evaluates the colorfastness of textiles in the presence of chlorine at low levels. 5A Examines colorfastness in the presence of higher levels of chlorine.

TESTING WASHING FASTNESS

Scientific Testing Requirements Test specimens should be placed in humidity chamber prior to testing. Equipment Needed Launder-O-Meter A canister and 50 steel balls 0.225 g of laundry detergent (.15% of weight of liquor) 0.5 inch strip of the multi-fiber test fabric 150mL de-ionized water 6 x 2 sample AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC Gray Scale for Staining

TESTING WASHING FASTNESS

How This Test Works: Samples are washed under specified conditions to replicate 5 home washings. The samples are then evaluated for color change, staining, and abrasion. Conditions for the appropriate procedure are determined and preprogrammed into the LaunderO-Meter or later listed in Launder-O-Meter conditions.

TESTING WASHING FASTNESS

Sample Preparation: 1. Cut a 6 by 2 sample, one sample per person. 2. Sew or staple multi-fiber test fabric along one edge of the technical face of the sample. Multifiber test fabric should run along the length of the sample. Set sample aside. 3. Add 150mL of water and 0.225g of detergent to each canister. 4. Add 50 steel balls into the canister. 5. Place black gasket into canister lid. Press Teflon liner into lid (liner will be slightly too large and should cup towards the outside of the cap). Close lid. 6. Clamp the canisters into the Launder-O-Meter. Evenly distribute them on each of four sides. If necessary, add more canisters to even out the number. 7. Start the rotor and run it for at least 2 minutes (until temperature reaches 49 C) to preheat the canisters and solution.

Launder-O-Meter

TESTING RUBBING FASTNESS

Objective
Amount of color that may be transferred from a sample fabric to another fabric by rubbing. Equipments needed Crock meter 2 white test cloths Pre-cut sample (9 in the warp X 3 in the weft) AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale

TESTING RUBBING FASTNESS

Sample

Sample of 9 (warp) X 3 (weft) is cut.

Sample is conditioned.

Loading crock meter DRY:

A 9 X 3 strip of fabric is taken Secured into fabric holder

Holder is loaded into the Crock meter

Test cloth is loaded Machine will rub across the fabric 10 complete turns. White test cloth is removed and evaluated.

TESTING RUBBING FASTNESS

WET:

White test cloths is wetted and mounted Fabric is mounted into the holder. Lid is closed and run the machine 10 complete turns. Evaluated as directed

CROCK METER

TESTING PERSPIRATION FASTNESS

Objective

This test method is intended for use in determining the fastness of colored textiles to the effects of perspiration. It is applicable to dyed, printed, or otherwise colored textile fibers, yarns, and fabrics of all kinds and to the testing of dyestuffs as applied to textiles.

TESTING PERSPIRATION FASTNESS

Principle and Process

Three specimens of colored textile are soaked in simulated acid perspiration solution, subjected to fixed mechanical pressure (10 lbs.) in the AATCC Perspirometer It is allowed to dry slowly at a slightly elevated temperature (100 F) in a circulating air oven for at least 6 hours. Evaluation is done using the Gray Scale for color change; staining is evaluated on multi-fiber fabric using the gray scale for staining. Specimens are evaluated in the Macbeth Light Booth under daylight conditions.

PERSPIROMETER

TESTING DRY CLEANING FASTNESS

Dry cleaning: process that uses organic solvents as basis of cleaning
solution.

Dimensional change: less pronounced with dry cleaning than with

laundering, recommend evaluation after three to five cycles. AATCC 158 Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloro-ethylene: Machine Method.

Dry cleaning is necessary for cleaning items which would otherwise be

damaged by water and soap or detergent.

Solvents used are mainly perchloroethylene, hydrocarbons, liquid silicones

and liquid carbon dioxide.

Process:1) The chamber is filled approximately 1/3 full of solvent and begins to rotate to agitate the clothing. 2) Garments are inspected for stains, soils and foreign objects by the operator. 3) A typical wash cycle lasts for 8-15 minutes depending on the type of garments and amount of soiling.
4) At the end of the wash cycle, the machine starts a rinse cycle, and the garment load is rinsed with fresh distilled solvent from the pure solvent tank. 5) After the rinse cycle the machine begins the drying process. 6) During the drying cycle, the garments are tumbled in a continuous stream of warm air (145F/63C) that circulates through the basket. 7) After the drying cycle is completed, a deodorizing (aeration) cycle starts to cool the garments and remove the last traces of dry cleaning solvent.

DRY CLEANING MACHINE

EQUIPMENTS USED TO TEST COLOR FASTNESS

SPECTROPHOTOMETER
Spectroscopy is the study of the emission and absorption of light and of the

electromagnetic spectrum. This instrument performs basic color analysis,

including color classification, color matching, & shade sorting.

Key features

This test measures the percentage of light transmitted or reflected at

each wavelength in the visible spectrum.

It yields a spectral power distribution.

Each spectral power distribution that is produced is specific to the

colorant.

It may be broad or narrow and have one or more peaks.

The shape describes the color in a two-dimensional plot.

SPECTROPHOTOMETER

EQUIPMENTS USED TO TEST COLOR FASTNESS

CROCKMETER

Also known as Crock master, it is used to determine color

fastness to wet and dry rubbing.

It is suitable for color fastness testing for all types of

textiles, including carpets and floor coverings.

Key features

Motorized and manual models Smooth, precision-engineered mechanism

Re-settable digital counters

Easy-to-use, polycarbonate specimen clamp Quality Assured Consumables: Crocking Cloths and Grey Scale

CROCKMETER

EQUIPMENTS USED TO TEST COLOR FASTNESS

GYROWASH

Gyro wash are standard-driven instruments. Used to investigate color fastness to washing, dry cleaning and chlorinated water on textile and leather specimens.

Key features

Front-mounted water level controls Facility for permanent connection to water 5 Models: 8 vessels/one bath to 24 vessels/two baths

Small and large vessels, with chemically resistant seals

Quality Assured Consumables, including Multifibres, Detergents and
Grey Scales

GYROWASH

EQUIPMENTS USED TO TEST COLOR FASTNESS

PERSPIROMETER

The instrument is used to evaluate color fastness to perspiration, water and to assess the potential of white or pastel colored textiles to transit or storage (phenolic) yellowing.

The Perspirometer applies a specified pressure to a package of test specimens, separated by acrylic or glass plates.

Key features

Stainless steel construction Weights for ISO and AATCC test methods Incubator/Oven (with fan) Quality Assured Consumables

PERSPIROMETER

EQUIPMENTS USED TO TEST COLOR FASTNESS

MICROSOL
Microsol is a simple and relatively inexpensive, bench-mounted instrument for evaluating the light fastness of textiles and carpets. It does not comply with any major national or international standard, but nevertheless it is widely used and recommended for internal

production control.

Key features

Light source: 400W lamp

Lamp life: approx 2000hr

No of specimen holders:12

Exposure area per holder:110 x 50mm

Specimen thickness: up to 15mm

MICROSOL

ORGANISATIONS AND TESTING LABS

Organisations

American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM)

American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

(AATCC)

National Fiber Protection Association (NFPA) American National Standards Institute (ANSI) Organization for Standardization-(ISO)

Textile testing labs

Acts testing labs, Inc. Buffalo, New York. Albany International Research Company, Mansfield,
Massachusetts.

Color Services, Dueville, Italy

South Florida Test Service, Miami, Florida.

SGS-CSTC Standard Technical Services Ltd. Beijing, China

BIBLIOGRAPHY
Books referred: Textile Science J. Pizzuto The Standard Handbook of Textile A.J.Hall Textile-Fiber to fabric B.P. Corbman

Websites referred: www.calpoly.edu www.chm.bris.ac.uk www.freepatentsonline.com www.tfl.com www.legsource.com www.fp.uni.edu