Hulu’s Binge-Worthy ‘Deli Boys’ Is a Chaotic Crime Caper: Review
There is a rich tradition of crime meets comedy — in television, in film, and even in other countries. From “Ocean’s Eleven” to “The Nice Guys” and “The Afterparty” on Apple TV+, it’s always fun to imagine the gritty underworld filled with hilarious characters that don’t belong there. In India, Hindi movies like “Andaz Apna Apna” and “Hera Pheri” and “Jaane Bhi Do Yaaro” scratch the same itch, infusing life-or-death stakes of illegal activity with good old-fashioned hijinks. It’s the spirit alive and well in “Deli Boys,” the 10-episode Hulu debut now available to stream.
Created by Abdullah Saeed, “Deli Boys” follows brothers Raj (Saagar Shaikh) and Mir (Asif Ali) after the sudden death of their father (Iqbal Theba) when they inherit a family business that couldn’t be further from what they imagined. The body is barely cold before they’re enveloped in a world of drugs and murder, with the FBI circling ever nearer to what looks like a criminal jackpot (fronted by a deli, hence the title). The series was developed by executive producers Jenni Konner and Nora Silver, with Michelle Nader serving as showrunner.
It’s not easy to find the right tone for a show with that logline, but “Deli Boys” sets it from the start. The boys’ Baba dies tragically but absurdly; there’s physical comedy in every life-threatening situation, and always a punchline from the free-spirited Raj or uptight and terrified Mir (sometimes the punchline is a well-timed shriek). Directors Nisha Ganatra, Fawzia Mirza, and Maureen Bharoocha maintain that style throughout, propelled by Shaikh and Ali’s instinctive rhythm and tender brotherly bond.
Speaking of the all-female Desi directing team, “Deli Boys” is stacked with South Asian talent — from Theba’s guest role in flashbacks to Brian George as the frighteningly British uncle Ahmed to the men who make up the Maliks (Baba’s board of directors for the business behind the business) to Amita Rao as the daughter of Indian restaurant owners with whom the Dars (from Pakistan) want to do business. Tan France guest stars in his first acting role, with appearances by Sakina Jaffrey, Kevin Corrigan, and more.
Not enough can be said about Poorna Jagannathan as the foul-mouthed, gun-toting Lucky (truthfully, no more fearsome than the average aunty, except she’s packing heat) who commands every deal and frame, often in a leather jumpsuit. She may have plenty of experience playing moms, but make no mistake: She is mother.
“Deli Boys” never loses the thread of grief, as the Dar boys mourn a man whom they realize they loved but barely knew, but it does focus on crime capers more than emotional arcs. A lot of character growth happens offscreen, and the romantic relationships feel arbitrary more than anything else — necessary on the page for marketing a TV show, but mostly incidental to what makes people want to watch this one in the first place.
With the full season dropping at once, “Deli Boys” is not too dark, too violent, or too explicit to immediately watch all the way through. It’s bizarre and hilarious and fun enough to keep a viewer hooked, and hopefully to merit a second season. What’s that thing they say at convenience stores? Yeah, that.
Grade: B-
“Deli Boys” is now streaming on Hulu.
