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    The Rough Guide to Wales: Travel Guide eBook
    The Rough Guide to Wales: Travel Guide eBook
    The Rough Guide to Wales: Travel Guide eBook
    Ebook1,412 pages14 hoursRough Guides Main Series

    The Rough Guide to Wales: Travel Guide eBook

    By Rough Guides

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    About this ebook

    This Wales guidebook is perfect for independent travellers planning a longer trip. It features all of the must-see sights and a wide range of off-the-beaten-track places. It also provides detailed practical information on preparing for a trip and what to do on the ground. 

    This Wales guidebook covers: Cardiff and southeast Wales, Southwest Wales, The Brecon Beacons and Powys, The Cambrian coast, The Dee Valley and around, Snowdonia and the Llŷn, The north coast and Anglesey.

    Inside this Wales travel book, you’ll find: 

    • A wide range of sights – Rough Guides experts have hand-picked places for travellers with different needs and desires: off-the-beaten-track adventures, family activities or chilled-out breaks
    • Itinerary examples – created for different time frames or types of trip
    • Practical information – how to get to Wales, all about public transport, food and drink, shopping, travelling with children, sports and outdoor activities, tips for travellers with disabilities and more
    • Author picks and things not to miss in Wales – Conwy, Cadair Idris, The Gower Peninsula, Adventure Parc Snowdonia, Wacky Llanwrtyd Wells, Ffestiniog Railway, St Davids Cathedral, Mawddach Trail, Carreg Cennen Castle, Pembrokeshire Coast Path, Snowdon, Tryfan, Edward I's Iron Ring, Cardiff, Brecon Beacons, Male Voice Choirs, Wye Valley, Industrial Heritage, Hay-on-Wye, Abergavenny's Food, Zip-wire Madness, Aberglasney
    • Insider recommendations – tips on how to beat the crowds, save time and money, and find the best local spots
    • When to go to Wales – high season, low season, climate information and festivals 
    • Where to go – a clear introduction to Wales with key places and a handy overview 
    • Extensive coverage of regions, places and experiences – regional highlights, sights and places for different types of travellers, with experiences matching different needs
    • Places to eat, drink and stay – hand-picked restaurants, cafes, bars and hotels
    • Practical info at each site – hours of operation, websites, transit tips, charges
    • Colour-coded mapping – with keys and legends listing sites categorised as highlights, eating, accommodation, shopping, drinking and nightlife
    • Background information for connoisseurs – history, culture, art, architecture, film, books, religion, diversity
    • Essential Welsh dictionary and glossary of local terms 
    • Fully updated post-COVID-19

    The guide provides a comprehensive and rich selection of places to see and things to do in Wales, as well as great planning tools. It’s the perfect companion, both ahead of your trip and on the ground.

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherInsight Guides
    Release dateJun 1, 2024
    ISBN9781835290972
    The Rough Guide to Wales: Travel Guide eBook
    Author

    Rough Guides

    Rough Guides are written by expert authors who are passionate about both writing and travel. They have detailed knowledge of the areas they write about--having either traveled extensively or lived there--and their expertise shines through on every page. It's priceless information, delivered with wit and insight, providing the down-to-earth, honest read that is the hallmark of Rough Guides.

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      Contents

      Introduction to Wales

      Where to go

      When to go

      Author picks

      things not to miss

      Itineraries

      Sustainable travel

      Basics

      Getting there

      Getting around

      Accommodation

      Food and drink

      The media

      Festivals and events

      Sports and outdoor activities

      Alternative, New Age and green Wales

      Travel essentials

      Cardiff and southeast Wales

      Cardiff and around

      Wye Valley

      Mid-Monmouthshire

      Newport and around

      Vale of Glamorgan

      The Valleys

      Swansea

      Gower

      Southwest Wales

      Llanelli and around

      Carmarthen and around

      Tywi Valley

      Southern Carmarthenshire

      Narberth and the Landsker Borderlands

      South Pembrokeshire coast

      Mid-Pembrokeshire

      St Bride’s Bay

      North Pembrokeshire coast

      Mynydd Preseli

      The Brecon Beacons and Powys

      Brecon Beacons National Park

      The Wells towns

      North and east Radnorshire

      Montgomeryshire

      The Cambrian coast

      From Cardigan to Aberaeron

      Teifi Valley

      Aberystwyth and around

      Vales of Rheidol and Ystwyth

      North from Aberystwyth

      Southern Cadair Idris and the Dyfi and Talyllyn valleys

      Northern Cadair Idris and the Mawddach estuary

      Ardudwy

      The Dee Valley and around

      Wrexham

      Chirk and around

      The Dee Valley

      Mold and the Vale of Clwyd

      Snowdonia and the Llŷn

      Snowdonia

      The Llŷn

      The north coast and Anglesey

      Holywell and around

      Rhyl and around

      St Asaph and around

      Colwyn Bay and around

      Llandudno

      Conwy

      Around Conwy

      Bangor

      Anglesey

      Contexts

      History

      Modern Welsh nationalism

      Natural history of Wales

      Music in Wales

      Film

      Books

      Welsh

      Contexts

      Map symbols

      Rough Guide Credits

      Publishing information

      Help us update

      ]>

      Introduction to Wales

      Wales, a small country on the rocky fringe of western Europe, punches well above its weight when it comes to looks, attractions and visitor appeal. Barack Obama praised its extraordinary beauty, wonderful people and great hospitality, while National Geographic magazine named Pembrokeshire the world’s second-best coastal destination, and its coastal path second among the world’s top ten long-distance paths. This is a country that remains utterly authentic, and while it’s happy to keep up with the best new trends – you can witness an ever more sophisticated hotel scene and a raft of gourmet restaurants displaying real culinary creativity – Wales always stays true to itself.

      It’s not all about the landscapes, either: the solid little market towns and ancient castles reward repeated visits as much as the stirring mountains, gorgeous valleys and rugged coastline. The culture, too, is compelling, whether Welsh- or English-language, Celtic or industrial, ancient or coolly contemporary. Even its low-key profile serves it well: while the tourist pound has reduced parts of Ireland and Scotland to Celtic pastiche, Wales remains gritty enough to be authentic, and diverse enough to remain endlessly fascinating.

      Recent years have seen a huge and dizzying upsurge in Welsh self-confidence, a commodity no longer so dependent on comparison with its big and powerful neighbour England. Popular culture – especially music and film – has contributed to this, as did the creation of the National Assembly in 1999, the first all-Wales tier of government for six hundred years. After centuries of subjugation, the national spirit is undergoing a remarkable renaissance. The ancient symbol of the country, y ddraig goch or the red dragon, seen fluttering on flags everywhere you go, is waking up from what seems like a very long slumber.

      As soon as you cross the border from England, the differences in appearance, attitude and culture between the two countries are obvious. Wales shares many physical and emotional similarities with the other Celtic lands – Scotland, Ireland, Cornwall, Brittany in France, and Asturias and Galicia in northwest Spain. A rocky and mountainous landscape in hues of predominantly grey and green, a thinly scattered, largely rural population, a culture rooted deeply in folklore and legend, and the survival of a distinct, ancient language are all hallmarks of Wales and its sister countries. To visitors, it is the Welsh language, the strongest survivor of the Celtic tongues, that most obviously marks out the country, with tongue-twisting village names and bilingual signposts making a strong cultural statement. Everyone in Wales speaks English, but a 2016 government survey found that twenty percent of the population were also fluent in Welsh, that number rising to 25 percent for 16- to 25-year-olds. TV and radio stations broadcast in Welsh, the language is taught in schools and restaurant menus are increasingly bilingual. As a visitor, any attempts to speak at least a fragment of the rich, earthy tones of one of Europe’s oldest living languages will be warmly received.

      Image ID:001MapWales

      FACT FILE

      With an area of 8000 square miles (20,800 square km), Wales is less than a sixth the size of England and a little larger than the American state of New Jersey.

      While Wales is part of the United Kingdom, it also has its own devolved Welsh Government which is responsible for certain local affairs.

      The population of Wales totals just over three million, sixty percent of whom live in the southeastern corner of the country. One quarter of the population was born outside the country, the vast majority being migrants from England. Cardiff, the capital city, has a population of 358,000.

      As well as having the second-longest place name in the world, Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogery­chwy­rndrobwllllantysi­liogogogoch was used in the cult 1968 sci-fi movie Barbarella starring Jane Fonda – it’s the password to enter a secret resistance headquarters.

      Lawn tennis has its roots in Wales. Apparently, one Major Walter Clopton Wingfield was playing with a new-fangled India rubber ball in the gardens of Nantclwyd Hall near Ruthin in 1873. It bounced on grass, the major had a lightbulb moment and in 1874 patented the rules of a game he called sphairistrike, ancient Greek for the art of playing ball.

      Image ID:001-4

      Tenby Harbour, Pembrokeshire

      Copyright (c) 2017 Lukasz Pajor/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

      Despite seven hundred years under the yoke of its far larger neighbour and the growing strength of independence party Plaid Cymru, few Welsh nationalists call for a total split from England. Nevertheless, it causes great offence when the distinct nationality of Wales is blatantly disregarded or patronized. As a visitor you should avoid referring to England when you really mean Britain or the United Kingdom, and never say English when you mean Welsh: it is like calling a Kiwi an Aussie or a Canadian an American.

      Although it is the wealth of prehistoric sites, crumbling castles and wild landscapes that draws visitors here in the first place, many people leave championing contemporary Wales. The cities and university towns are buzzing with an understated youthful confidence and sense of cultural optimism, while a generation or two of urban escapees has brought a curious cosmopolitanism to the small market towns of mid-Wales and the west. Although conservative and traditional forces still sporadically clash with these more liberal and anarchic strands of thought, there’s an unquestionable feeling that Wales is big enough, both physically and emotionally, to embrace a number of diverse influences. Perhaps most importantly, Welsh culture is underpinned by an iconoclastic democracy that contrasts starkly with the establishment-obsessed class divisions of England. The Welsh character is famously endowed with a musicality, lyricism, introspection and sentimentality that produces far better bards and singers than it does lords and masters. And Welsh culture is undeniably inclusive: anything from a sing-song in the pub to the grandiose theatricality of an eisteddfod involves everyone – including any visitor eager to learn and join in.

      Prehistoric and legendary Wales

      Whether walking through a dew-soaked field to some mysteriously inscribed standing stone, or catching the afternoon sun as it illuminates the entrance to a cliff-top burial chamber, exploring Wales’ prehistoric sites is thoroughly rewarding. At all but a few of the most popular, the bleating of sheep will be the only sound to break the contemplative silence of these spiritual places.

      Prehistoric sites litter the country. Hut circles defensively set atop windswept hills attest to a rugged hand-to-mouth pre-Celtic existence dating back four or five thousand years, while stone circles, intricately carved monoliths and finely balanced capstones set at crucial points on ancient pathways suggest the more spiritual life led by the priestly druids. Britain’s greatest druidic centre was Anglesey, and the island is still home to many of Wales’ best prehistoric sites, including the splendid chambers of Barclodiad y Gawres and Bryn Celli Ddu. Elsewhere, numerous standing stones and circles can be found on the mysterious slopes of the Mynydd Preseli in Pembrokeshire and in the area around Harlech in north Wales. Many sites take their names from great figures in Celtic history and folklore, such as Arthur and Merlin (Myrddin in Welsh); legends abound to connect much of the landscape with ancient tales.

      Where to go

      Just 160 miles from north to south and 50 miles from east to west, Wales is smaller than Massachusetts and only half the size of the Netherlands. Most of its inhabitants are packed into the south – if you’re after wide empty spaces, head for north or mid-Wales. Like most capital cities, Cardiff is atypical of the rest of the country. The majority of the national institutions are based here, not least the National Assembly, housed amid the massive regeneration projects of Cardiff Bay. The city is also home to the National Museum and St Fagans National History Museum – both excellent introductions to the character of the rest of Wales – and the superb Principality Stadium, which stages huge sporting events and blockbuster gigs. The only other centres of appreciable size are loud-and-lairy Newport and breezy, resurgent Swansea, lying respectively to the east and west of the capital. All three cities grew as ports, mainly exporting millions of tons of coal and iron from the Valleys, where fiercely proud industrial communities were built up in the thin strips of land between the mountains.

      Image ID:001-7

      Cardiff City Hall

      Shutterstock

      Much of Wales’ appeal lies outside the larger towns, where there is ample evidence of the conflict that has shaped the country’s development. There are more castles per mile than anywhere else in Europe, from the hard little stone keeps of the early Welsh princes to Edward I’s incomparable series of thirteenth-century fortresses at Rhuddlan, Conwy, Beaumaris, Caernarfon and Harlech, and grandiose Victorian piles where grouse were the only enemy. Fortified residences served as the foundation for a number of the stately homes that dot the country, but many castles were deserted and remain dramatically isolated on rocky knolls, most likely on spots previously occupied by prehistoric communities. Passage graves and stone circles offer a more tangible link to the pre-Roman era, when the priestly order of druids ruled over early Celtic peoples, and later religious monuments such as the great ruined abbeys of Valle Crucis, Tintern and Strata Florida lend a gaunt grandeur to their surroundings.

      Yet for all the appeal of its castles, megaliths or cultural highpoints – Dylan Thomas’ home at Laugharne, for example – many people find that the human monuments of Wales are upstaged by the beauty of the countryside. From the green lowland meadows and river valleys to the inhospitable heights of the moors and mountains, Wales is a spectacular place. The rigid backbone of the Cambrian mountains terminates in the peaks of Snowdonia – rapidly transforming into the adventure capital of Britain – and the angular ridges of the Brecon Beacons. Both are national parks, and both offer superb walking country. A third national park follows the Pembrokeshire Coast, with its golden strands separated by rocky bluffs. Much of the rest of the coast remains unspoilt, with long sweeps of fine sand and the occasional traditional British seaside resort; highlights include the often-overlooked Cambrian coast and the glorious Gower peninsula, the first region in Britain designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The entire coast is now linked by the 870-mile Wales Coast Path; be sure to spend some time wandering its length.

      Land of song

      Praise the Lord! We are a musical nation, intones the Rev. Eli Jenkins in Dylan Thomas’ masterpiece, Under Milk Wood. It’s a reputation of which the Welsh feel deservedly proud. Although the image of plucky miners singing their way to the pithead was largely a dewy-eyed, Hollywood-born fabrication, Wales does make a great deal more noise, and makes it a great deal more tunefully, than most other small countries.

      The male voice choirs, many struggling to survive in the aftermath of the decimation of the coal industry that spawned them, are the best-known exemplars of Welsh singing, but traditions go back much further, to the bards and minstrels of the Celtic age. Wales continues to produce wonderful musical talent; from big-lunged legends Sir Tom Jones and Dame Shirley Bassey to experimental musicians like The Velvet Underground’s John Cale and more recent champions of Welsh culture including Manic Street Preachers, Cerys Matthews and Super Furry Animals.

      When to go

      The climate (see page 71) in Wales is temperate, with summers rarely getting hot and nowhere but the tops of mountain ranges ever getting very cold, even in midwinter. Temperatures vary little, unless you’re near the mountains, that is; Llanberis, at the foot of Snowdon, is always a few degrees cooler than Caernarfon, seven miles away, and gets doused with more than twice as much rainfall. For much of the summer, Wales – particularly the coast – can be bathed in sun, and between June and September the Pembrokeshire coast, washed by the Gulf Stream, can be as warm as anywhere in Britain. That said, the bottom line, year-round, is that the weather is predictably unpredictable. May might be wet and grey one year and gloriously sunny the next, and the same goes for the autumn months – November stands just as much chance of being crisp and clear as being foggy and grim. However, if you’re planning to lie on a beach, or want to camp in the dry, you’ll need to go in summer (between June and September); book your accommodation as far in advance as possible for late July and August. For a chance of reasonably good weather with fewer crowds go in April, May, September or October. When it comes to outdoor pursuits you’ll find June to October the warmest and driest for walking and climbing.

      ]>

      Author picks

      Our author recommendations don’t end here. We’ve flagged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special restaurant – throughout the Guide, highlighted with the ê symbol.

      Our authors have explored every corner of Wales over several editions of this guide in order to uncover the very best the country has to offer. Here are some of their favourite things to see and do.

      Finest scramble Snowdon is splendid, but the north ridge of Tryfan (see page 283) gives wonderful exposure and views, and the scramble up borders on rock-climbing.

      Better slate than never Genuine and gritty among its verdant surroundings, Blaenau Ffestiniog (see page 293) has put its slate-mining past to brilliant use, offering thrilling biking, zip wires and underground trampolines.

      Image ID:001-8

      Hiking in Snowdonia National Park

      Shutterstock

      Sublime views Head to Beaumaris (see page 328) and settle down with a coffee to admire the superb view across the Menai Strait to the Snowdonian mountains.

      Skeletal grandeur Ride Newport’s Transporter Bridge (see page 101), A giant with the might of Hercules and the grace of Apollo, as it was described when it opened in 1906.

      Magnificent birdlife Watch red kites swoop for their daily feed at Gigrin Farm near Rhayader (see page 198).

      Image ID:001-9

      Transporter Bridge, Newport

      Shutterstock

      Buy a pint from Bessie Spend an evening at the quirky Dyffryn Arms (see page 170) in bucolic Cwm Gwaun.

      End of the world The Llŷn peninsula excels in escapism, be it the panorama from the summit of Tre’r Ceiri (see page 305) or the lovely seaside village of Aberdaron (see page 303).

      Coastal wonder Savour the glorious views of Worms Head (see page 128) and Rhossili Bay (see page 128) from the head of the Gower peninsula.

      Proud heritage Learn about Wales’ industrial past at evocative sites from the Llechwedd Slate Caverns in Blaenau Ffestiniog (see page 293) to the Rhondda Heritage Park in Trehafod (see page 117).

      ]>

      25

      things not to miss

      It’s not possible to see everything that Wales has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows, in no particular order, is a selective taste of the country’s highlights, including beautiful beaches, outstanding national parks, thrilling outdoor activities and unforgettable urban experiences. All highlights are colour-coded by chapter and have a page reference to take you straight into the Guide, where you can find out more.

      Image ID:001-10

      1 Conwy

      See page 319

      One of north Wales’ finest walled medieval towns, with more than two hundred listed buildings and a superb castle, Conwy also exudes small-town charm.

      Crown copyright/Visit Wales

      Image ID:001-11

      2 Cadair Idris

      See page 235

      The dominant mountain of southern Snowdonia, the magnificent Cadair Idris is chock-full of classic glacial features.

      Shutterstock

      Image ID:001-12

      3 THE GOWER PENINSULA

      See page 124

      Beautiful beaches, open moorland, pretty villages and even a castle or two: there’s a reason why this gorgeous stretch was designated Britain’s first Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

      Shutterstock

      Image ID:001-13

      4 Surfing

      See page 108

      Whether it’s Porthcawl or Port Neigwl (Hell’s Mouth), Wales dishes up some of Britain’s finest surf, with some great surf schools to boot.

      Copyright (c) 2019 Rob Charlesworth/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

      Image ID:001-14

      5 WACKY LLANWRTYD WELLS

      See page 194

      Bog snorkelling, the Man versus Horse Marathon and the Real Ale Wobble bring a wonderful sense of fun to this quiet corner of mid-Wales.

      Crown copyright/Visit Wales

      Image ID:001-15

      6 Ffestiniog Railway

      See page 297

      Of Wales’ many great little trains, the Ffestiniog Railway, winding down through the Snowdonia mountains, is one of the very best.

      Crown copyright/Visit Wales

      Image ID:001-16

      7 St Davids Cathedral

      See page 161

      The heart of Welsh spirituality, St Davids Cathedral is at Wales’ westernmost extremity and has drawn pilgrims for a millennium and a half.

      Shutterstock

      Image ID:001-19

      8 Mawddach Trail

      See page 244

      Ride or walk this easy trail beside Wales’ finest estuary, the Mawddach, crossed by the 2253ft rail and foot bridge into Barmouth.

      Shutterstock

      Image ID:001-18

      9 Carreg Cennen Castle

      See page 138

      The most romantic ruin in Wales, Carreg Cennen Castle sits in glorious isolation amid pastures grazed by Welsh longhorns.

      Crown copyright/Visit Wales

      Image ID:001-19

      10 Pembrokeshire Coast Path

      See page 146

      If you don’t want to tackle the full 187 miles in one big push, break it up into a series of day-walks and enjoy some of Wales’ wildest coastal scenery.

      Shutterstock

      Image ID:001-20

      11 Snowdon

      See page 288

      Hike one of half a dozen demanding tracks to the top of Wales’ highest mountain – or take the train and sup a beer at the summit café.

      Shutterstock

      Image ID:001-21

      12 Tryfan

      See page 283

      Fabulous views along the Ogwen Valley in the wilds of Snowdonia are just one of the rewards for making the arduous ascent of Tryfan.

      Shutterstock

      Image ID:001-22

      13 Edward I’s Iron Ring

      See page 320

      The might of the thirteenth-century English monarchy found its fullest expression in this chain of virtually impregnable fortresses, now evocative hollow shells.

      Crown copyright/Visit Wales

      Image ID:001-23

      14 Cardiff

      See page 79

      With its brilliant mishmash of old and new architecture, rugby, rollicking nightlife – and, of course, a castle – the capital couldn’t be more Welsh.

      Shutterstock

      Image ID:001-24

      15 Brecon Beacons

      See page 175

      The rambling moors of the Brecon Beacons are perfect for wild, lonely walks with thundering waterfalls and limestone caverns as destinations.

      Shutterstock

      Image ID:001-25

      16 Male voice choirs

      See page 117

      Burly miners singing their hearts out at eisteddfodau may be a thing of the past, but Welsh male voice choirs still provide a poignant insight into this most musical of nations.

      Paul Whitfield/Rough Guides

      Image ID:001-26

      17 The Wye Valley

      See page 93

      Soak up the pastoral beauty of this wonderful valley and the spectacular ruins of Tintern Abbey.

      Shutterstock

      Image ID:001-27

      18 Industrial Heritage

      See page 111

      The Valleys are the very heart of Wales’ proud coal-mining past, nowhere seen better than at Blaenavon’s Big Pit.

      Shutterstock

      Image ID:001-28

      19 Hay-on-Wye

      See page 191

      Rub shoulders with the literati at the famed festival or just come along to enjoy superb secondhand-book shopping in this pretty riverside border town.

      Adam Tatton Reid

      Image ID:001-29

      20 Abergavenny’s food

      See page 187

      Sample some of the best dishes Wales has to offer in this gastronomic hotspot or, better still, time your visit to coincide with September’s food festival, among the best in Britain.

      Crown copyright/Visit Wales

      Image ID:001-30

      21 Zip-wire madness

      See pages 283 and 115

      Europe’s longest zip-wire and the fastest in the world can be found in Snowdonia; adrenaline junkies should also make a beeline for Zip World Tower in the Valleys.

      Zip World

      Image ID:001-31

      22 Aberglasney

      See page 138

      Rescued from near-terminal decay, these formal gardens in the Tywi Valley are a perfect counterpoint to the nearby National Botanic Garden of Wales.

      Copyright (c) 2023 Graham King/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

      Image ID:001-32

      23 MOUNTAIN BIKING

      See page 67

      Whether for pros or families, Wales now has some of Britain’s finest single-track riding; beginners should try Bike Park Wales near Merthyr.

      Copyright (c) 2013 Dolfilms/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

      Image ID:001-33

      24 PRINCIPALITY STADIUM

      See page 83

      Although Wales’ standing in international rugby fluctuates wildly, the game remains practically a religion here, never more so than when the national team is playing at Cardiff’s awesome Principality Stadium.

      Shutterstock

      Image ID:001-34

      25 Llandudno

      See page 313

      North Wales’ most genteel seaside resort, Llandudno spreads languidly around the bay beneath the ancient rock plug of the Great Orme.

      Paul Whitfield/Rough Guides

      ]>

      Itineraries

      Create your own itinerary with Rough Guides. Whether you’re after adventure or a family-friendly holiday, we have a trip for you, with all the activities you enjoy doing and the sights you want to see. All our trips are devised by local experts who get the most out of the destination. Visit www.roughguides.com/trips to chat with one of our travel agents.

      Our Grand Tour is ideal for a first visit to Wales, sampling the best cities and towns, the country’s industrial heritage and its breathtaking mountain and coastal scenery. Fans of Neolithic cromlechs, ruined abbeys and stately homes should follow our Historic Buildings itinerary, while the Active Wales options point you to a thrilling range of outdoor pursuits.

      THE GRAND TOUR

      If you’ve got the luxury of a fortnight and want to tick off Wales’ acknowledged highlights, hit these spots.

      1 Cardiff Ground-breaking architecture, top-notch culture and blistering nightlife in the cool Welsh capital. See page 79

      2 Gower Welsh natural splendour at its most stunning, the Gower peninsula boasts wide-open beaches, rocky bays and steep cliffs. See page 124

      3 St Davids peninsula Sample some of the finest sections of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path and stay over in delightful St Davids. See page 159

      4 Cadair Idris The folds of this fine mountain harbour old castles, churches and a steam railway, the Centre for Alternative Technology and the sublime Mawddach estuary. See page 235

      5 Snowdonia Hard-working narrow-gauge railways, slate-mining heritage and nuggety villages in inspiring mountain scenery. See page 274

      6 Portmeirion Enjoy the whimsical Italianate beauty of Clough Williams-Ellis’ home for fallen buildings. See page 298

      7 Conwy and Llandudno A domineering castle and ancient houses within an intact ring of walls make Conwy an essential stop, best visited from Llandudno, with its grand seaside architecture and blustery walks on the Great Orme. See pages 319 and 313

      8 Llangollen Head inland to find a canal aqueduct, a heritage railway, a hilltop castle, an abbey ruin and the home of the Ladies of Llangollen all wedged into a bucolic valley. See page 261

      Image ID:001MapItin

      Historic Buildings

      Edward I’s massive castles and the wonderful St Davids Cathedral are well known and widely covered; these equally fascinating monuments can be enjoyed in a visit of ten days or so.

      1 Tintern Abbey Admire the beautiful roofless ruin that inspired Wordsworth’s poetry by the placid River Wye. See page 96

      2 Soar-y-Mynydd chapel Wales’ most remote chapel, in the wild countryside of Mynydd Eppynt. See page 195

      3 Carreg Cennen The most wonderfully located of all the native Welsh castles, high on a cliff. See page 138

      4 Pentre Ifan Wales’ largest burial stone, with its 16ft-long top-stone precariously balanced on stocky legs. See page 170

      5 Penrhyn Castle, Bangor Old masters in a grandiose Victorian mansion that loves to show off its slate-mining wealth. See page 325

      6 Plas Mawr, Conwy A superb example of an Elizabethan townhouse. See page 321

      7 Plas Newydd, Llangollen Fascinating mock-Tudor bolthole, once home to two aristocratic Anglo–Irish ladies. See page 331

      Active Wales

      You’ll enjoy that slice of bara brith or pint of Purple Moose all the more if you’ve earned it hiking, biking or surfing. Set aside around two weeks for a full-on activity holiday – longer if you want to tackle Offa’s Dyke.

      1 Whitewater rafting: Cardiff Abundant thrills and spills on these superb man-made rapids. See page 87

      2 Surfing: Gower Suit up and surf some of the UK’s finest waves among the bays and beaches of the glorious peninsula. See page 127

      3 Coasteering: St Davids peninsula Jump off rocks into the sea, swim across bays and explore dramatic caves. See page 162

      4 Mine exploring: Corris Get kitted out with harness and headlamp and listen to real tales of mining life in an abandoned slate mine. See page 239

      5 Mountain biking: Coed y Brenin Among the very best of many fine places to ride off-road in Wales. See page 244

      6 Rock climbing: Llanberis Pass The ultimate mountain challenge in the home of Welsh rock climbing; some climbers engage guides from the nearby Plas y Brenin mountain centre. See pages 286 and 282

      7 Walking: Offa’s Dyke Path It takes a couple of weeks to walk the whole of this classic 177-mile long-distance path, which largely follows the ancient earthwork along the English border. See page 201

      ]>

      Sustainable travel

      Most travellers are aware of the importance of low impact travel, and as a visitor to Wales, it is worth considering how you can travel as sustainably as possible. Here we explore some of the ways you can minimize your footprint.

      Use public transport

      Avoid flying or driving to Wales if you can. The most satisfying way to reach, and travel around, the country is by using public transport. Cardiff is a major road and rail hub, with excellent connections to both England and the rest of Wales, while the city itself has an excellent public transport system, including a comprehensive network of buses, plus ferries down to Cardiff Bay; otherwise, the city boasts several zero emission transport alternatives, including bikes and e-scooters. Of course the ultimate way to reduce your carbon footprint is to walk, and Cardiff – like all of Wales’ major conurbations – is eminently walkable. Beyond here, an extensive network of local bus companies link the country’s towns and villages. One of best examples of this is the Sherpa Bus (April to Sept), which stops at various locations throughout Snowdonia National Park, including points close to all the major footpaths.

      Join a beach clean-up

      Wales rates some of the most stunning (and cleanest) coastline in the UK; it currently has twenty-five Blue Flag beaches. Sadly, though, but it’s still the case that much rubbish gets washed up on them, with plastic bottles and bags being the most common offenders. The Marine Conservation Society (www.mcscuk.org) regularly advertises beach clean ups, as do the country’s regional Wildlife Trust organizations, such as the North Wales Wildlife Trust (www.northwaleswildlifetrust.org) which undertakes a big January beach clean called Plast Off!. Extra hands are always welcome and it's a great way to contribute to keeping the Welsh coastline clean in the company of environmentally conscious locals. The website www.keepwalestidy.cymru also has plenty of environmental initiatives you can join in with, whether you live in Wales or are just visiting.

      Image ID:001-37

      Beach clean-up

      Copyright (c) 2021 Rawpixel.com/Shutterstock. No use without permission.

      Carry a refillable water container

      Tap water is perfectly safe to drink in Wales, so by carrying a refillable water container, you’ll avoid buy plastic bottles unnecessarily, whilst also saving some money. Start by filling up in your accommodation and then utilize public water taps wherever possible, or pop into any café where staff are usually happy enough to fill up for you. Moreover, most restaurants are more than happy to serve diners with a glass or jug of tap water, complete with ice and/or lemon.

      Eat plant-based

      The adverse environmental impacts of eating meat are well known, but it’s now possible to eat some wonderful vegetarian and vegan food throughout Wales, which certainly wasn’t the case even just a few years ago. Seek out a plate of spicy lentil lasagna at the marvellous Kyffin Café in Bangor, or the fantastic, one-of-its-kind Grub Kitchen in St David’s where you can chomp on the likes of bug burgers and cricket cookies! Even if you are a committed carnivore, why not try a few plant-based meals for the duration of your stay in Wales? You are likely to be pleasantly surprised at the variety and quality on offer. Foraging has also become extremely popular, and you’ll find many ingredients on restaurant menus displaying an array of hand-picked goodies.

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      Organic Perl Las cheese

      Shutterstock

      Buy local

      Buying your produce and other goods at markets allows you to buy directly from the seller, thereby cutting out many of the unsustainable practices associated with purchasing goods at shops and supermarkets. Wales is renowned for its local markets where, among other treats, you can purchase fantastic local meats and cheeses – Gower saltmarsh lamb, Black beef, Perl Las or Caerphilly cheese – freshly pressed apple juices, homemade jams and chutneys, cockles and laverbread, and not forgetting those all-important Welsh Cakes! Both Cardiff and Swansea indoor markets are two of the UK’s best, while Abergavenny’s Market Hall variously hosts food, flea and craft markets each week.

      Enjoy a sustainable stay

      Choose to stay in guesthouses and small independent hotels if you can; by doing this, your money will go to local people and communities as opposed to hotel brands with headquarters on the other side of the world. Better still, get even closer to nature with a stay on one of Wales’ ever-more quirky glamping sites, be it a treetop dome or a wooden shack at Fforest Farm in Cardigan, or a lakeside yurt at Fforest Fields in Radnorshire.

      ]>

      Basics

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      The No. 4 Edward Thomas train on Talyllyn Railway

      Shutterstock

      Getting there

      Coming to Wales from elsewhere in Britain, or from Ireland, is easy enough by train, bus or ferry, though it may not necessarily work out cheaper than flying. Crossing the border from England into Wales is straightforward, with train and bus services forming part of the British national network. The two roads providing the quickest access into the heart of the country are the M4 motorway in the south and the A55 expressway in the north. Both are fast and busy; minor routes are more appealing if you aren’t in too much of a hurry.

      Flights to Wales from Ireland and continental Europe are few and far between, and non-existent from outside Europe, in which case you’re best off flying to England and continuing overland from there. Manchester is well placed for north Wales and you might consider Birmingham for direct access to mid-Wales. With most airlines nowadays, how much you pay depends on how far in advance you book and how much demand there is during that period – generally speaking, the earlier you book, the cheaper the prices.

      Visas and red tape

      Citizens of all European countries – other than Albania, Bosnia Herzegovina, Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia and most republics of the former Soviet Union – can enter Britain with just a passport for up to three months. US, Canadian, Australian and New Zealand citizens can travel in Britain for up to six months with a passport. All other nationalities require a visa, available from the British consular office in the country of application. However, now that Britain has left the EU, visa regulations will almost certainly change in the future, so it’s always wise to contact the nearest British embassy or high commission before you travel. Check http://gov.uk/browse/visas-immigration for all the latest information.

      Flights from England, Scotland and Ireland

      The only airport in Wales offering commercial passenger flights is Cardiff Airport (http://cardiff-airport.com), twelve miles south­west of the capital. Currently the only flights from the rest of the UK are from Belfastwith AerLingus (http://aerlingus.com) and Ryanair (http://ryanair.com), and Edinburgh with Loganair (http://loganair.co.uk)

      Flights from mainland Europe

      Cardiff Airport is also poorly served with flights from mainland Europe; presently, KLM (http://klm.com) flies from Amsterdam, Eastern Airways (http://easternairways.com) flies from Paris Orly, and Ryanair (http://ryanair.com) from Dublin, while both Tui (http://tui.com) and Vueling (http://vueling.com) offer flights from numerous destinations in both Spain and Portugal, plus a few other Mediterranean countries in summer. Quite simply, the best bet for travellers from Europe is to fly into Bristol airport (http://bristolairport.co.uk) just across the border, which has some excellent connections with mainland Europe, or Birmingham, Liverpool and Manchester airports, which are handily placed for onward travel into mid- and north Wales. Alternatives to air travel are the traditional cross-Channel ferry services or the Channel Tunnel (see page 53).

      Flights from the US and Canada

      Numerous airlines, including British Airways (http://britishairways.com) and United Airlines (http://united.com), fly from both the eastern and western US seaboards to London, the principal gateway for visitors to Wales, and also offer direct flights to both Manchester and Birmingham; flight time from the east coast is around seven hours, ten hours from the west. Low-season round-trip fares from New York to London range from US$650 to US$800, and in summer you can expect to pay more than US$1000 (add US$100–200 from other eastern cities). Low-season fares from the west coast start at a little under US$1000, rising to around US$1400 in summer and around Christmas.

      From Canada, you’ll get the best deal flying to London from Toronto or Montreal, for example with Air Canada (http://aircanada.com), where fares are around Can$1000–1200 return. From the west, fares range from Can$1200 to Can$1650.

      Flights from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa

      To get to Wales from Australia, New Zealand or South Africa you’ll need to fly through London, or possibly Manchester in northern England. Flights via Southeast Asia or the Middle East are generally the cheapest options, with the likes of Etihad (http://etihad.com) and Emirates (http://emirates.com). Average return fares from eastern Australian cities to London are Aus$1500–2500 depending on the season; from Perth or Darwin you’ll pay around Aus$200 less. Return fares from Auckland, for example with Air New Zealand (http://airnewzealand.com), range from NZ$2000 to NZ$3000.

      There are direct flights from South Africa to London Heathrow with South African Airways (Jo’burg; http://flysaa.com), British Airways (Jo’burg and Cape Town; http://britishairways.com) and Virgin Atlantic (Jo’burg; http://virginatlantic.com). It is sometimes possible to find cheaper deals on indirect routes with Emirates (from Cape Town, Durban and Jo’burg; http://emirates.com), KLM (Jo’burg; http://klm.com) and Lufthansa (from Jo’burg; http://lufthansa.com). Return fares are generally around ZAR7000–8000, depending on the season.

      By car

      The M4 motorway (from London to Cardiff and Swansea) makes the most dramatic entry into Wales, across the graceful Second Severn Crossing bridge (no footpath or cycle lane). A few miles north, the M48 links England and Wales over the smaller, but original Severn Bridge (footpath and cycle lane available). High winds can sometimes lead to bridge closures, so if in doubt check http://nationalhighways.co.uk. The only other fast road into Wales is the A55 expressway running along the north Wales coast to the Ireland-bound ferries at Holyhead.

      By train

      Britain’s trains are run by a myriad of operators, but all are required to work as a single network with integrated ticketing. Travelling to Wales from the rest of the UK, most people use the fast, frequent service from London Paddington to Newport (1hr 45min), Cardiff (2hr) and Swansea (3hr), operated by Great Western Railway (http://gwr.com). Very few direct trains from England go beyond Swansea, although connections at Newport, Cardiff and Swansea link up with services to Carmarthen and stations in Pembrokeshire.

      The north coast service from London Euston to Holyhead (4hr), via Chester, also stops at Prestatyn, Rhyl, Colwyn Bay, Llandudno Junction and Bangor, and is operated by a combination of Avanti West Coast (http://avantiwestcoast.co.uk) and Transport for Wales (http://tfwrail.wales). From other cities in England and Scotland, you’ll probably need to change en route – at Bristol for the south coast line, at Crewe for the north coast.

      We’ve listed some useful train contacts in our Getting around section (see page 54).

      From Europe

      England has direct, high-speed passenger trains from France and Belgium via the Channel Tunnel with Eurostar (03432 186186, http://eurostar.com), which runs hourly between Paris, Lille, Brussels, Amsterdam and London (St Pancras). The cheapest return fares from Paris or Brussels to London start at around €85, though there are frequent promotional deals, particularly for advance bookings, so it’s always worth checking the website.

      Drivers travelling between Calais and Folkestone can use Le Shuttle (from the UK 08443 353535, from France +33 (0)810 630304, http://eurotunnel.com), a vehicle-carrying train that whisks through the Channel Tunnel in just 35 minutes. You can just turn up on the day you want to travel, but booking is advised and usually cheaper, especially at weekends. Return fares start from as little as €55 for a car and up to nine passengers.

      By bus

      Throughout Britain, long-distance bus (aka coach) services are almost all run by National Express, (http://nationalexpress.com) which serves most parts of Wales. The chief routes are from London to Cardiff; London to Milford Haven via Chepstow, Swansea and Pembroke Dock; London to Wrexham via Birmingham and Llangollen; London to Aberystwyth via Birmingham and Welshpool; from London along the north Welsh coast to Holyhead and Pwllheli, both via Birmingham; Birmingham to Cardiff, Swansea and Haverfordwest; from Chester along the north coast to Llandudno, Bangor, Caernarfon and Pwllheli and Holyhead; and Chester direct to Holyhead.

      Fares vary enormously, with the cheapest tickets sold early. One-way London–Cardiff fares can be as little as £5. There are also numerous discount cards available (see page 56), while children under 3 travel free.

      Low-cost intercity services are also operated by Megabus (http://uk.megabus.com), with coaches running from a handful of UK cities to Carmarthen, Cardiff, Newport, Swansea and Pembroke Dock; similarly, fares can be obtained from as low as £5 if you book well in advance.

      By ferry

      Travellers from Ireland have the choice of three Welsh ferry ports, which are variously served by Irish Ferries (http://irishferries.com) and Stena Line (http://stenaline.co.uk). Passenger fares are very competitive, with diverse special deals and midweek and advance purchase offers. The busiest port is Holyhead, on the northwest tip of Wales, with ferries and fast catamarans from Dublin, though the fast cats often only run in the busiest summer months. Both Fishguard and Pembroke Dock are served by ferries from Rosslare (just outside Wexford).

      SEA connections from Ireland

      Route, Company, Frequency, Duration

      Dublin–Holyhead (ferry), Stena, 4 daily, 3hr 30min

      Dublin–Holyhead (ferry), Irish, 3 daily, 3hr 25min

      Dublin–Holyhead (catamaran), Irish, 2 daily, 2hr

      Rosslare–Fishguard (ferry), Stena, 2 daily, 3hr 30min

      Rosslare–Pembroke Dock (ferry), Irish, 2 daily, 4hr

      From Europe

      From mainland Europe, ferries arrive at various ports in England. The shortest, most convenient route is the crossing from Calais to Dover with P&O ferries (http://poferries.com). Other useful crossings are Zeebrugge and Rotterdam to Hull, the Hook of Holland to Harwich, and Le Havre to Portsmouth.

      For ferry routes and prices, contact the ferry companies direct or visit Aferry (http://aferry.com) and Direct Ferries (http://directferries.co.uk).

      Package deals and tours

      Hundreds of tour operators specialize in travel to the British Isles. Most can do packages of the standard highlights, but of greater interest are the outfits that help you explore Britain’s unique points: walking (see page 65) or cycling trips (see page 67), say, and any number of themed tours based around, for example, literary heritage, history, pubs, gardens, theatre or golf. A few of the possibilities for Wales are listed below.

      Agents and operators

      North South Travel UK http://northsouthtravel.co.uk. Friendly, competitive travel agency, offering discounted fares worldwide. Profits are used to support projects in the developing world, especially the promotion of sustainable tourism.

      Trailfinders UK http://trailfinders.com. One of the best-informed and most efficient agents for independent travellers.

      Travel CUTS Canada http://travelcuts.com. Canadian youth and student travel firm.

      USIT Ireland http://usit.ie. Ireland’s main student and youth travel specialists.

      WALES SPECIALISTS

      Busy Bus http://busybus.co.uk. Excellent outfit offering adventure day-trips from Chester, Liverpool and Manchester to north Wales, taking in Conwy Castle and Snowdonia National Park, among other places. They also operate cruise excursions from Holyhead.

      Dragon Tours http://dragon-tours.com. Tailor-made day-trips (historic, cultural, sporting) from any location in the UK, alongside six-, ten- and fourteen-day tours across Wales, with prices determined by your choice of accommodation (from hostels to five-star hotels).

      Shaggy Sheep Tours http://shaggysheep.com. Great fun and hugely enthusiastic, the booziest backpacker tours around leave weekly from London. Choose between the Merlin weekend trip or the four-day All-Wales Dragon trip; adventure activities cost extra. For independent travellers, there’s also a handy jump-on, jump-off return bus service from London stopping at key destinations in Wales.

      Getting around

      The large cities and densely populated valleys of south Wales support comprehensive train and bus networks, but the more thinly populated areas of mid- and north Wales have to make do with skeletal services. Getting about by car is easy and, outside the cities, sheep and vehicles with agricultural equipment are likely to be a more persistent problem than other road users. Take the more scenic backroads unless you’re in a real hurry. Information for cyclists is listed in the outdoor activities section (see page 65).

      By train

      The train is one of the best ways to get around Wales; the views are superb and the engineering often impressive. In addition to the mainline network, there are more than a dozen narrow-gauge trains (see page 55).

      Services in Wales cover all the main cities and a seemingly random selection of rural towns and wayside halts. As well as the two major lines – which also have several slower services – detailed in our Getting there section (see page 52), there is the Cambrian Coast line from Birmingham and Shrewsbury through Welshpool, Newtown and Machynlleth. Beyond Machynlleth it divides at Dyfi Junction; the southern spur goes a few miles to Borth and Aberystwyth, the northern one crawls up the coast through Tywyn, Barmouth, Harlech and Porthmadog to Pwllheli. Even slower (but very picturesque) is the second route from Shrewsbury, the Heart of Wales line, which runs through Knighton, Llandrindod Wells, Llanwrtyd Wells, Llandovery, Llandeilo and a host of tiny halts on the way to Llanelli and Swansea.

      Apart from the major intercity services from England, all services are run by Transport for Wales (http://tfw.wales) with timetables covered in detail on Traveline Cymru (http://traveline.cymru) and on the useful See Wales by Bus and Train map, free from tourist offices.

      Services on all but the main north- and south- coast train lines are infrequent and are occasionally replaced by buses on Sundays. At many smaller stations, ticket offices close at weekends and in a lot of minor towns they’ve shut for good. In these instances, either use the vending machine on the platform, or if there isn’t one, buy your ticket on board – though keep in mind that if you’ve boarded at a station with a machine or ticket office and haven’t bought a ticket, you’re liable for an on-the-spot fine. Note that a number of money-saving rail passes are available.

      RAIL contacts

      The Man in Seat Sixty-One http://seat61.com. Superb site covering all aspects of British and European train travel.

      National Rail Enquiries http://nationalrail.co.uk. Primary contact for all train timetables and booking.

      Trainline http://thetrainline.com. Independent UK-wide online ticket retailer.

      Traveline Cymru http://traveline.cymru. Comprehensive train and bus info on all of Wales, particularly useful for planning integrated journeys.

      Wales’ steam railways: six of the best

      With the rising demand for quarried stone in the nineteenth century, quarry and mine owners had to find more economical means of transport than packhorses to get their products to market, but in the steep, tortuous valleys of Snowdonia, standard-gauge train tracks proved too unwieldy. The solution was rails, usually about 2ft apart, plied by steam engines and dinky rolling stock. The charm of these steam railways was recognized by train enthusiasts, and long after the decline of the quarries, they banded together to restore abandoned lines and locos. Most lines are still largely run by volunteers, who have also started up new services along unused sections of standard-gauge bed.

      Tickets are generally sold separately, but eleven railways (including all those listed here) operate as The Great Little Trains of Wales (GLT; http://greatlittletrainsofwales.co.uk) and offer a Discount Card (£20; valid one year), giving you twenty percent off the cost of the return journey on each of the GLT railways.

      The railways below are listed north to south:

      Snowdon Mountain Railway Llanberis. See page 285.

      Welsh Highland Railway Porthmadog. See page 297.

      Ffestiniog Railway Porthmadog. See page 297.

      Llangollen Railway Llangollen. See page 262.

      Talyllyn Railway Tywyn. See page 240.

      Vale of Rheidol Railway Aberystwyth. See page 232.

      By bus

      Intertown bus services in Wales duplicate a few of the major rail routes, often at half the price of the train or less, but take considerably longer. Buses are reasonably comfortable and on longer journeys there are refreshment stops.

      Much bus travel is provided by local services run by a bewildering array of companies: consult Traveline Cymru (see page 55) for details or visit http://showbus.co.uk/timetables/wales.htm, which has links to all the major companies. Though buses are more expensive and less frequent in rural areas, there are very few places without any service, even if it’s only a private minibus on market day. All regions have their own detailed local timetables, easily obtained from tourist offices, libraries and bus and/or train stations. For occasional bus journeys, it’s easy enough to simply pay as you board, but good savings can be made with one of the various bus passes and combined bus and rail passes (see page 56).

      In the northern half of Wales, Arriva Buses Wales (http://arrivabus.co.uk/wales) runs the majority of local services. Further south the system is far less unified, though most buses west of Cardiff and south of Carmarthen are run by the Swansea-based First Bus (http://firstbus.co.uk).

      Cardiff Bus (http://cardiffbus.com) is the major company serving Cardiff and the Vale of Glamorgan. Various day, weekly and monthly passes are available, all of which can be bought aboard the bus (see page 88).

      Traws Cymru (http://traws.cymru) operates seven excellent medium- to long-range services: #T1 from Aberystwyth to Carmarthen; #T1C from Carmarthen to Cardiff; #T2 from Bangor to Aberystwyth via Porthmadog; #T3 from Wrexham to Barmouth; #T4 from Cardiff to Newtown, calling at Merthyr, Brecon and Llandrindod Wells; #T5 from Aberystwyth to Haverford West via Cardigan; and #T6 from Brecon to Swansea.

      Train and bus passes and discounts

      Ordinary standard-class fares on UK trains are high and first-class costs an extra 33 percent, but there are various ways to save money. Off-peak and advance-purchase fares are much cheaper, railcards can save you a third off the price and there’s a huge array of rail passes that cover all of Britain, just Wales or smaller regions.

      Train ticket types

      Up to two children under 5 travel free with each adult-fare-paying passenger, while those aged 5–15 inclusive pay half the adult fare on most journeys. Bicycles are generally carried free with restrictions (see page 67). As a guide to prices, a standard-class one-way ticket on the London–Cardiff route might cost £26 (Advance), £60 (Off-Peak) or £110 (Anytime).

      Anytime Fully flexible ticket allowing travel on any train at any time within a month after purchase. Expensive.

      Off-peak Return off-peak fares cost about a third of the price of Anytime fares, though one-way fares are seldom much cheaper than returns (if you’re doing a lot of travelling on one-way journeys, rail passes make a lot of sense). You generally cannot travel during weekday peak hours (these vary by route and company) and must complete outbound travel on the date shown on the ticket: the return portion is more flexible with the possibility of breaking the journey. At any station outside the morning rush hour, you’ll routinely be sold an off-peak ticket.

      Advance Advance-purchase tickets are the cheapest available, with no refunds and generally only valid on the train(s) you’ve booked. They must be bought at least the day before you travel and they’re generally cheaper the further in advance you book. These are usually sold as single tickets, making planning a series of one-way journeys realistic if you are prepared to book ahead.

      Railcards

      You can save a third on fares with one of several railcards, all of which cost £30 for a year (http://railcard.co.uk): the 16–25 Railcard; the 26–30 Railcard; the Senior Railcard, for travellers over 60; the Family and Friends Railcard, for use by up to four adults travelling with up to four children (aged 5–15); and the Two Together Railcard, for two named people travelling together. Children under 5 travel free at all times. Railcards also give a third off Explore Wales passes (see next page).

      NATIONAL EXPRESS COACHCARDS

      You can save a third on fares with one of three coachcards, all of which cost £15 (http://nationalexpress.com): the 16–26 Coachcard; the Senior Railcard, for people over 60; and the Disabled Coachcard.

      Rail and bus passes: Britain and Wales

      All-Line Rail Rover http://nationalrail.co.uk. Unlimited travel on almost the entire network throughout England, Scotland and Wales (including the Ffestiniog Railway) for seven consecutive days (£571). Available within Britain from larger train stations.

      BritRail Pass http://britrail.net. Overseas visitors planning several long-distance trips through other parts of Britain in addition to Wales might consider purchasing a BritRail Pass online – these must be bought before you enter the country. A range of passes is available for unlimited travel in England, Scotland and Wales over various combinations of consecutive days or a certain number of days over two months; one child can travel free on each adult pass (other children travel half-price).

      Explore Wales Pass https://tfw.wales/ways-to-travel/rail/ticket-types/rovers-and-rangers/explore-wales. Eight consecutive days’ bus travel and four days’ rail travel within the same period (£108). Covers all of Wales and extends to Crewe, Shrewsbury and Hereford in England. Includes a fifty-percent discount on the Ffestiniog narrow-gauge railway (see page 297), twenty-percent discounts on many other narrow-gauge railways and reduced entry to CADW and National Trust properties. The pass can be bought at most staffed train stations.

      Rail and bus passes: North and mid-Wales

      Explore North & Mid Wales Pass The same deal as the Explore Wales Pass but only covering the northern half of Wales (£73). The pass can be bought at most staffed train stations.

      North Wales Rover All-day pass on all trains and most buses in north Wales and down the Cambrian coast to Aberystwyth. The area is divided into seven zones; you can choose to travel within two zones (£14.90), three zones (£25.40) or all zones (£40). Buy at the stations.

      Snowdon Sherpa Day Ticket All-day travel on the routes immediately surrounding Snowdon (see page 277) for £6. Buy on the bus.

      Rail and bus passes: West and mid-Wales

      Explore Cambrian One day’s train travel between Aberystwyth and Pwllheli (£14), valid after 9.15am and all weekend. Buy at the stations.

      Heart of Wales Line Circular Day Ranger One day’s unlimited train travel on the route Shrewsbury–Llandrindod Wells–Swansea–Cardiff–Hereford–Shrewsbury with as many breaks as the timetable will allow (£41). You can buy the pass at most staffed train stations.

      Explore West Wales All-day train travel in Pembrokeshire, west of Carmarthen (£14). Valid after 8.45am on weekdays and all weekend. Buy at the stations.

      Rail and bus passes: South Wales

      Explore South Wales Pass Same deal as the Explore Wales Pass but only covers the southern half of Wales (£73). The pass can be bought at most staffed train stations.

      First Bus & Rail Card http://firstbus.co.uk/south-west-wales. Unlimited one-day travel (£12), after 9.30am and all weekend, on all Great Western Railway trains and First company buses between Newport and Carmarthen. Buy from any bus driver or any train station between Newport and Carmarthen.

      Explore Cardiff and Valleys One day’s Cardiff and Valleys bus and train travel. The Day Explorer (£14) is valid after 9.30am weekdays and all weekend; the Valleys Night Rider (£8) is only available after 6.30pm. The pass is sold at most staffed train stations.

      By car

      If you want to cover a lot of the countryside in a short time, or just want more flexibility, you’ll need your own transport. An extensive network of dual carriageways and good-quality roads links all major centres, including the A5 through Llangollen into Snowdonia and the A40 into the Brecon Beacons. In rural areas you’ll often find yourself on winding, sometimes hair-raisingly narrow, single-track lanes with slightly broader passing places where two vehicles can squeeze by – with this in mind, you might want to select a compact rental car.

      As in the rest of the UK, you drive on the left in Wales. In 2023, the Welsh government implemented a controversial change to the 30mph speed limit, bringing it down to 20mph (unless indicated to the contrary) on roads where there are streetlights (so most but not all roads where there had previously been a 30mph limit) – an enforcement that, on balance, has been widely lambasted. Otherwise, speed limits are 30–40mph (50–65km/h) in built-up areas, 70mph (110km/h) on motorways (freeways) and dual carriageways, and 60mph (97km/h) on most other roads. Be alert to posted signs as speed cameras are everywhere.

      Pay and display

      You often have to pay for parking in towns and at popular beaches, many of which are tucked into folds in the mountains or wedged below cliffs, giving little space for parking on the road. At most pay-and-display car parks, tickets are issued by machine (you may have to type in your car registration number). Some shopping centres may require you to pay for parking, though you usually get your parking costs redeemed at the check-out if you make a purchase.

      Parking prices are typically 50p to £1 an hour, though some places charge a flat fee of up to £5. It‘s definitely an incentive to use public transport – some eco-oriented attractions even give discounted entry to visitors arriving without a car. Note that members of NT/CADW (see page 70) do not have to pay for parking at their respective properties – where parking charges apply, that is.

      Road signs are pretty much international (Give Way means Yield), and road rules are largely common sense. Many road signs give instructions in English and in Welsh. You are not permitted to make a kerbside turn against a red light and must always give way to traffic (circulating clockwise) on a roundabout. This applies even for mini-roundabouts, which may be no more than a white circle painted on the road.

      Petrol (gas) is sold in litres (a UK gallon = 4.56 litres, a US gallon = 3.8 litres), and at the time of writing, was around £1.55 per litre – diesel costs fractionally more – though prices have been fluctuating wildly since the outbreak of the war in the Ukraine. The Automobile Association (AA; breakdowns 0800 887766, http://theaa.com), the Royal Automobile Club (RAC; breakdowns 0800 828282, http://rac.co.uk) and Green Flag (breakdowns 0800 0510636, http://greenflag.com) all offer 24-hour emergency breakdown services. You may be entitled to free assistance through a reciprocal arrangement with a motor organization in your own country – check the situation before setting out. You can call the breakdown numbers even if you are not a member, although you’ll be charged a substantial fee.

      Most foreign nationals can get by with their driving licence from home, but if you’re in any doubt, obtain an international driving permit from a national motoring organization. All foreign vehicles should carry vehicle registration, ownership documents and insurance, so be sure to check your existing policy.

      WALES’ BEST DRIVES

      You can’t go far in Wales without experiencing great views, but if you’re set on seeking out some of the very finest scenery, try these drives:

      Abergwesyn Pass Follow the ancient drovers’ road through the spectacularly remote moorland of the Cambrian Mountains from Llanwrtyd Wells to Tregaron. See page 195.

      Elan Valley and Cwmystwyth From Rhayader take the mountain road past the reservoirs of the Elan Valley up to the blasted landscapes around Cwmystwyth and down past Devil’s Bridge into the Vale of Rheidol. See pages 199 and 232.

      Gospel Pass Take the narrow road over the roof of the Black Mountains from Abergavenny past Llanthony Priory to Hay-on-Wye. See page 191.

      Marine Drive A short but wonderfully scenic loop around Great Orme. See page 316.

      Wye Valley Savour the wooded gorge of the River Wye on a journey from Monmouth past Tintern Abbey to Chepstow. See page 93.

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