Silvia Olcese

Gucci ok, is it key that the recently appointed CEO of a brand in deep trouble in terms of business releases his first interview and he talks about the Montenapoleone store windows? Is it crazy to expect him to share a recovery strategy instead? Is it a sign that the windows concept is called “Endless Narratives”? Lots of talk? Now? Isn’t it time to be sharp and effective now? Windows? Like Rinascente? Cantino joined Gucci in May 2024 as Deputy CEO so now he should be ready to share what he’s gonna do with: - product strategy (Slimane?) - supply chain that very often has zero orders for end 2024 and what about 2025? - directly owned suppliers under Italian government support - retail strategy - full price vs discount strategy and outlets - 3 year plan - human resources and redundancies What’s going on there? Nobody knows It’s all well, folks

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I'm about to launch my #fashion brand – and I'm proud that Agnese Curti will join as a co-founder. (Help us choose the first designs in the survey in the first comment) I have been really quiet in the past few months because things got really busy both with my agency, Grapefox, and with the launch of the new brand. So, here's a bunch of things about the brand: – The brand is called "Vilanera". What does it mean? Nothing. The name was empty and brandable. The ".com" domain was cheap and available and the name was not trademarked. And it sounds nice. That's it :) – We are going to sell women's bags. The reasons why we have decided to focus on this are multiple, but the main ones are: 1) Women's bags are a huge market; 2) They have lower returns compared to other items – especially dresses –, because it's less likely that people will return them because the item doesn't fit properly; 3) They have a single size, so dealing with production/stock is going to be a bit easier. – The bags are going to be produced in Italy. The first collection will be made in Florence. – There are no investors – and I don't think there will ever be. I will finance the project with my own money. For now we are going to start with around 20,000 € – then we will push to 100,000 €, if things work. – The brand is built to be profitable from day 1. We are aiming at 55-60% gross margins after returns/COGS/shipping while maintaining high quality of the bags. This will leave us plenty of room to pay for marketing/fixed costs. (the aim is not to exceed 10% fixed costs) – We will keep fixed costs as low as possible and we will be cutthroat when it comes to expenses – stock included. – We will focus on what people want and not on what we want, so we will heavily test each single design before launching it. What doesn't work will be removed. – We want to let people/customers decide what bags we will produce, so we will try to design a system to allow people to constantly vote for new features/designs. – I will try to crack the organic side as soon as possible, because paid advertising will be a walk in the park, but I don't want to over-rely on Meta/Google/TikTok ads. You will see me trying to sell women's bags with my Italian accent :) – We are starting with some basic designs and this is done on purpose. We don't want to risk with designs that are too unique. We will develop something unique later, but first we need to be profitable. – Last but not least, we launched a survey to see what designs people like and to choose the first 4 bags to launch, and we received really good feedback, actually. If you are interested and you like women's bags, you can take the survey by checking the first comment under this post. I really wanted to launch this project since forever, and after many, many years, I finally felt ready – skill-wise and financially – to jump. Last but not least, let's hope it will go well. Fingers crossed! :)

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✨ Fashion and luxury are not just economic sectors; they are powerful tools to interpret the world and pursue beauty and quality. As highlighted by Il Sole 24 Ore, 2025 brings challenges such as rising prices, shifting global markets, and the key role of new creatives. However, these challenges can turn into opportunities. Fashion and luxury uniquely capture the essence of our time, transforming values into inspiring products. Emphasizing craftsmanship and timeless quality can reinforce their role as cultural and economic pillars. In 2025, true luxury will be about celebrating well-made products, a value deeply and unconsciously recognized by humanity, reflecting a society in transformation. #fashion #luxury #craftsmanship #beauty #quality #sustainability #timelessdesign #globalmarkets #futureoffashion

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HERE WE ARE This morning, I was asked what I foresee for the Fashion industry in 2025. The article published by #MilanoFinanza highlights a possible recovery starting from the second half of next year, focusing on the financial aspects of the sector. From my perspective, which is nourished daily by feedback from professionals in the creative, production, and distribution sectors, the outlook appears less optimistic. The ongoing crisis has already been decimating important brands and companies for months. However, what I foresee with certainty is an acceleration in the adoption of new Artificial Intelligence tools. These tools, while posing challenges for those who fail to update and adapt, will also bring enormous opportunities: cost reductions in various areas of the supply chain, coupled with a significant qualitative improvement in results across multiple fields. As #MarcoBizzarri asserts, and as valuable entrepreneurs have taught me over the years, it is precisely during the most challenging times that great successes can be achieved. This revolution, now irreversible, will radically transform the Fashion and Luxury sectors. Personally, I hope this change will also lead to a recovery in terms of image and quality, regaining what has been lost in recent times. One thing is certain: whether by 2025 or 2026, there is no turning back! #fashionnews #fashionluxury #fashionrevolution

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- 1 to the launch of my project... I have always been convinced that a #fashion or a #luxury brand should avoid having diva-like employees like creative directors or CEOs working mainly for their own benefit in the short term and that the Brand should be put first. This is the only way to create Brand Equity. That intangible asset so much despised by CFOs who cannot measure it but that represent the winning weapon on the market. I got to this conclusion after: - more than 20 years as a manager and top executive in key groups and brands - several years of studies thanks to my job as luxury management professor in key universities - my own research and curiosity crossing a regular brand analysis I do for my consulting job Brunello Cucinelli financial results of Q1 24 prove exactly this point. - Having a good product aligned with a powerful and consistent storytelling making the brand distinctive and unique is the only leverage helping companies to surf the ups and downs of this industry, especially in these volatile times - A company cannot recover quickly from the turmoil if they did not work well in advance in creating and nurturing a solid brand management and strategy - #talentmanagement is key and the team spirit is crucial. No divas...I remember Carla Fendi, one of the five sisters who developed Fendi had a desk in the open space with us, sharing everyday every single inspiration and thought with all of us, nobody excluded. - You can have the right mix of knowledge of brand management in fashion and luxury if you work in the industry and you study at the same time brand management applied to the industry - There is no need to launch hype, if you develop a great, robust, distinctive brand Tomorrow will be the day of the launch of my personal project. Stay tuned if you are interested!

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This is the first capsule collection me and Agnese will launch. After we checked the results of the survey we ran, and after analyzing 350 responses, these are the winners. We decided to focus on the top three highest voted colours: (people could vote multiple colours, that's why those percentages don't "add up") - Black (81.7%) - Brown (61.5%) - Burgundy (49.8%) The idea is to have a really solid but limited capsule collection, because it would be too risky to start with too many products – also, if we find a bunch of products selling well, we want to quickly push. Having too many products would complicate that. Our hope is to find 2-3 real winners and to push them as much as we can. ___ In the next 30-45 days these are the tasks we MUST complete: 1) Agnese will take care of the shooting in Milan; 2) I have to finish the website – we will be on WordPress/WooCommerce; 3) I will have to find an agreement with the 3PL to deal with shipping/logistics – we will probably have our warehouse in the Netherlands. ___ We should be ready to launch by the end of February – if nothing happens. But we are already happy about the responses we had and the small traction we already got. I don't want to be delusional, because "you never know," but I think we got this :) Let's see if 20 years combined of experience in the field (between me and Agnese) will pay off. But now that we are about to launch, I'm getting anxious as well :) Have a great weekend! #fashion

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The performance of the OTB Group (Only The Brave) hasn't really had the attention it deserves. The group owns the brands Diesel, Maison Margiela, Marni, Viktor&Rolf and others and last year produced very solid results: +10.2% for the group  +33.8% on direct channels  +13.1% for Diesel (key turnaround)  Headquartered in Italy with a strong business across Europe and APAC, here are some insights for #OTB FY23: ✅ Revenue increased +10.2% YOY to €1.9Bn ✅ Regional Spilt of Sales: Italy €344m Rest of Europe €503m APAC (excl India) €251m Japan €410m US €203m ROW €104m ✅ Regional Summary China: continued to focus on areas of high potential: 30 new stores Japan accounts for 23% of OTB's group business South Korea is one of the groups top performing new markets US business returned to growth Europe remained stable ✅ Significant growth for the direct channels of 33.8% from 2022, driven by increased sales in existing stores and by 76 new openings, as a result of which the retail network had a total of 610 direct sales outlets at the end of 2023 ✅ Superb performance in Asia, the Group’s key growth driver with a turnover improvement of 74% ✅ Continued expansion in Japan, which, with 23% of total business, is the Group’s key market and reported 19.4% growth in 2023 ✅ DIESEL +13.1% - Robust growth reflects the reflecting the success of the now well consolidated brand repositioning strategy - Growth of the women’s collection, which today accounts for almost 50% of business - Generated growing interest among young consumers, with Gen-Z representing 35% of its customer base - Opened 15 new stores in Europe, China, India and North America, including flagships in Paris, Miami, Antwerp and Guangzhou ✅ MAISON MARGIELA +23% - driven by China and Korea, where sales were up 72.4% from 2022, confirming the brand's growing appeal among young Asian consumers - positioning was strengthened by the global success of the Maison Margiela Artisanal Collection 2024 haute couture fashion show - opened 24 new stores; Venice, Beijing, Shanghai, Los Angeles, Las Vegas and Seoul ✅ JIL SANDER +17.3% - 18 new stores in locations including Paris, Rome, Venice, Madrid, London, Dallas, Los Angeles, Tokyo, Kyoto, Nanjing and Seoul. ✅ Marni +8.6% 16 new stores opened in 2023 - Signed a new 20-year licensing agreement with Coty, for beauty products and fragrances  ESG / OTB Foundation ✅ committed to supporting vulnerable people in Italy and Internationally ✅ Awarded prestigious “We Welcome” award by the UN High Commissioner for Refugees ✅ Expanded its “Brave Women Awards” project, providing 57 scholarships for deserving female students at top Italian universities

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Empowering Women in Fashion - A Collective Responsibility On September 25, during Milan Fashion Week’s Spring/Summer 2023 shows, industry leaders gathered at the Bulgari Hotel to discuss empowering the female-identifying workforce. Co-hosted by BoF’s Lauren Sherman and Bulgari's Laura Burdese, the roundtable explored external activations, leadership strategies, and supply chain welfare. Despite progress, gender disparities persist. For example, female CEOs head only 2.5% of companies on the Milan stock exchange. Yet, McKinsey & Co. reports that companies in the top quartile for gender diversity on executive teams are 21% more likely to outperform on profitability. Key Takeaways from the BOF article: Authentic Activism: Companies must back public statements on social justice with genuine business practices to ensure brand alignment and retain talent. Leadership and Promotion: Addressing the promotion gap is vital. For every 100 men promoted to manager, only 86 women are promoted. Supply Chain Welfare: With 80% of fashion's global supply chain workforce being female, it's imperative to improve working conditions and support communities near factories. As FASHION EXECUTIVES & ENTREPRENEURS, we have a responsibility to lead by example. EMPOWERING women within our organizations and supply chains is not just a moral imperative; it's a business one. I am passionate about driving this change through my EMBODIED Leadership workshops. These sessions are designed to transform leadership from the inside out, promoting transparency, equity, and genuine support for all team members and also a focus on the Buying & Merchandising population. Let’s connect and discuss how we can collaborate to create a more INCLUSIVE and EQUITABLE fashion industry. Join me in creating a future where every woman in fashion can thrive. #FashionIndustry #FemaleEmpowerment #Leadership #Sustainability #GenderEquality #MilanFashionWeek #EmbodiedLeadership #Embodimentcoach #Coaching #Lifecoach #Corporatecoaching Join us on Thursday, August 1st for an online Mini Masterclass on Embodied Leadership. Book here. https://lnkd.in/dTH5vgXg

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🎯 Uniqueness, Innovation, and Tradition: The Revolution of Luxury Craftsmanship In the world of fashion, attention to detail and the value of “made-to-measure” have never been more tangible. 🌟 📌Zegna redefines the concept of tailoring with three distinct approaches: • Prêt-à-porter / RTW: 10 hours of work, combining the best of technology and artisanal craftsmanship. • Made-to-measure: A personalized experience, with 20-30% handmade craftsmanship for garments tailored exclusively to your measurements. • Bespoke: The essence of sartorial art. Each jacket is 100% handmade, requiring over 72 hours of meticulous work. The result? Every piece is unique and one of a kind. 💡 The magic lies in the artisanal imperfections that give every garment character and personality. From jackets to runway pieces, every desire comes to life with limitless customization options. This inspiring speech was delivered by our Creative Director Alessandro Sartori during my very first Oasi Experience, a journey that perfectly encapsulates Zegna’s values: sustainability, innovation, and timeless elegance. Zegna is the only brand that integrates everything, from fiber to the final product, delivering an unparalleled tailoring experience. #Zegna #LuxuryFashion #TailoringExcellence #MadeToMeasure #SustainableLuxury

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Success KPIS: 1) Trend Setter 2) Free-Spirited / Open-Minded 3) Unconventional / Off-Beat

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Clear vision, clear goals and strict guidelines to persue excellence

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An interesting article from Corriere della Sera about Santoni. Here some key highlights: 📈 15% Revenue Growth in 2023 - Projected 10.6% revenue increase in 2024 👞 Men's Lines dominate sales but Women's Lines are on the rise. 🌏 Exports make up 90% of Santoni's business, with a strong presence in the US, Europe, and the Middle East. 🌐 E-commerce makes 10% of revenue and is a key area of growth. 🎓 Santoni's Academy and Partnerships with technical institutes ensure the next generation learns the art of shoemaking. 🌟 Creating Lasting Experiences from purchase to home delivery is a focus to meet the high-end market's demand for quality, durability, and traceability. Read the full article here:

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The jewelry industry is heavely focused on fairs and trade shows even in the #digitaltransformation era. One of the very common mistakes when exhibiting is the following one: the last day of the show closing the booth, and leaving it unattended, in the late morning or at the beginning of the afternoon without waiting for the official closing time. This is disrespectful to visitors as well as to the event organizer. Despite an often long term expertise in managing such kind of events the above mistake is still common, especially for MSME (micro, small and medium enterprises). DM me if you are interested in find out more about trade show exhibiting crucial operations and the support of a focused advisory. #jewelry #jewellery #diamonds #gemstones #sme #msme #tradeshow

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Yet another acquisition of an Italian jewelry brand from a multinational luxury group: Swiss Richemont acquires the Italian brand Vhernier Group. It seems still difficult for Italian owned jewelers to stay indipendent or to group together with peer companies. Vhernier is based in Milan with manufacturing facilities in Valenza, one of the Italian jewellery clusters, specialized in the high-end segment. The Vhernier design is modern and inspired by contemporary sculpture. Richemont brand portfolio includes Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Buccellati. Final question: who will make the next move in the jewelry industry acquisition game? #jewellery #jewelry #luxury #luxurygoods #jewelryindustry

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I agree with Laura Pan’s observation that some challenges faced by the luxury sector could be linked to creativity, as certain brands lean more toward trend-following without establishing a distinct voice. While a shift in price positioning can reduce the consumer base, it’s not inherently an incorrect move. However, maintaining a balance between brand desirability and pricing is crucial. Luxury, by nature, has always catered to a niche while enticing aspirational consumers. In my view, an issue the luxury sector faces today is trust; many clients express concerns on quality/craftsmanship and the related recognized value vs prices charged is excessive. This perceived erosion of value undermines brand loyalty and highlights the importance of authenticity, craftsmanship, and meaningful innovation to reinforce trust and sustain engagement.

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‘Less is more’ is the mantra guiding me daily in a composable approach. Today, I had the honor of discussing #composable and #headless (two distinct concepts) with Andrea Kregar and Emanuele Bonomo at HNRG. Here below is the link of the webinary https://lnkd.in/dtnNdGQc Have fun :)

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You might not know the name Marcolin Spa, the Italian eyewear manufacturer, but you’ll definitely know the brands they produce frames for: Tom Ford, Christian Louboutin, adidas, BMW eyewear, Candies, Gant, 6CDS, Kenneth Cole, Marciano for Guess, Max&Co, MaxMara, Pucci, Skechers, Timberland and Tod’s. Revenues last year crept up 2% but EBITDA grew 27.9% driven by strong performance in Asia following a re-org in the region. Despite this reports have been common that PE backers PAI Partners (83% shareholders) have put Marcolin up for sale at a cool €1.3Bn. Interested parties are said to include Safilo, Marchon, Kering and EssilorLuxottica. #Marcolin insights FY23: 📈 Full Yr revenue €558m, +2% YOY 📈 Adjusted EBITDA reached 78.1 million euros (+27.9% v FY22) 📈 13m glasses sold 📈 EMEA - revenue was +1.7% - driven by the luxury segment in France, UK, Italy and Spain 📈 Americas - revenue was -4.8% - impacted by macroeconomics of the region and a declining eyewear sector 📈 Asia - revenue was +81.5% - Strongest growth came from South Korea, and the countries of SE Asia (operated by third party distributors) 🏭 Revenues by region: EMEA 47.4% Americas 39.6% ROW 5.2% APAC 7.8% Key FY23 Highlights ✅ Paid $250m for a long-term licence agreement with The Estée Lauder Companies for TOM FORD eyewear, a significant extension of the current licence agreement ✅ Acquired the the German company ic! berlin GmbH for €38.5m. The acquisition was arranged with the aim of increasing metalworking expertise and expanding the portfolio of luxury brands, strengthening the commercial position of the Group in key areas such as Asia and Europe. ✅ Signed new licence agreements with MCM and Christian Louboutin (the latter at the beginning of 2024) and the renewal and extension of licence agreements for brands already in the portfolio such as Emilio Pucci, Zegna, Max & Co, GCDS, Harley Davidson and Skechers ESG ✅ Implemented a path to sustainability in line with ESG standards (since 2021). Actions focus on various issues, including carbon emissions reduction and the circular economy. ✅ Reduced use of fossil-based materials. Increased use of innovative plastic materials. The latter include bio-based acetate, which is employed in a number of collections for some of Marcolins key Brands. For injection-molded eyewear, instead, R-PET plastic (Recycled PET) is used Employees / ED&I ✅ 57% of employees are women, 43% of whom are snr managers ✅ With the amalgamation of ic! Berlin headcount increased from 1854 to 2000 ✅ A Psychological Help Desk was launched through an online platform accredited by the Italian Health Service offering 24/7 help and support to anyone in need. The service is anonymous and available to employees and their families. ✅ Approved a new Gender Equality Policy in Nov 23 which establishes the company’s commitment to an inclusive and fair work environment, guaranteeing equal opportunities and parenting support

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Livetrend is PHYGITAL ! Look how we went from digital to physical, from AI-driven trends to a real #fashionshow It has been an amazing experience for the whole Livetrend.co team to see our hard work coming to life at the leading footwear fair MICAM Milano. 1. Livetrend has developed specific algorithms to detect footwear trends analyzing millions of images and information from the most influential web sources. 2. Livetrend has provided the first DATA-DRIVEN & AI-GENERATED TREND GUIDE to help MICAM visitors buying bestsellers products in order to reduce the unsold goods, optimising business and ecological impact. 3. This Guide for Buyers includes 4 seasonal macrotrends, presenting concepts, top colors, materials, components and the must-haves products for women and men, highlighting the data analyzed from Instagram, E-commerce, Fashion Shows and Consumer Interest, used to support the trend forecasting with concrete information. 4. Livetrend has created a whole TREND AREA for MICAM in collaboration with Lineapelle showing materials, colors and AI-generated products, classified from the most trendy to the most commercial. 5. The 4 Trends has been brought to life thanks to live fashion shows!! during the fair Livetrend has selected the best styles between more than 1000 exhibitors to showcase the trends of the season. Isn't that a wonderful accomplishment?

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Via The Business of Fashion. Confirming my previous post! Luxury brands raising their prices higher than inflation rate WITHOUT the backup of true newness in products, combined with formulaic consumer engagement, and questionable quality proposition is a sure recipe for gloom and doom! Hermes, Cucinelli, Moncler are buckling the trends, but what works for them may not work for your brand. Find your own voice! Among the underpeforming brands, I still hold hope for a rare few. For them, this quote from Bemjamin Disraeli comes to mind: "The secret of success, is constancy of Purpose." To these brands, I say: listen to your consumers, learn, adjust, focus, and trust your teams!!! ... and don't waste a good crisis!

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