A LECTURE NOTE
ON
INTRODUCTION TO WET PROCESSING
Textile Engineering department
Wolkite University
2004
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TEXTILE WET PROCESSING
• There is far more to go after fabric production to make the
substrates suitable for end-use and hence satisfy customer
requirements.
• The substrates lack attractiveness or aesthetics and serviceability
or adequate performance which are required for their effective
utilization.
• Attractiveness and improvement of properties are achieved through
coloration and finishing of the textile materials.
• For effective coloration and finishing smooth and uniform
application of colors and finishes must be ensured.
PRETREATMENT COLORATION FINISHING
PRETREATMENT: Removal of impurities for smooth chemical processing
COLOURATION: Application of color using dyes/pigments for attractiveness
FINISHING: Improvement of end use property by applying finishes
PRETREATMENT OF TEXTILE MATERIALS
Grey goods are contaminated with impurities
Cellulosic fibers (cotton) contain various impurities: fats, waxes, protineous
matters, etc.
Wool fiber contains wool wax (grease), inorganic salts and other dirt matters.
The serecin gum in silk fiber is also considered as impurity.
Synthetic fibers such as polyester and nylon are contaminated with spin finish
lubricants.
Besides inherent fiber impurities textile substrates are contaminated with added
impurities which are used in facilitating the conversion process from fiber to
fabric.
These include size and lubrication oils.
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Preparatory Processes
Purpose
To remove natural and added impurities
To impart certain desirable properties (water absorbency)
To improve the appearance of fabric (whiteness)
To make it suitable for subsequent processes like dyeing,
printing and finishing
Influence of impurity
Inhibit penetration of chemicals used in coloration/finishing
Interfere with coloration/finishing processes
Reduce the visual appearance of textiles
Unless the impurities are removed subsequent chemical
processing can not be smoothly accomplished.
A procedure mainly concerned with the removal of natural as well
as added impurities in fabric to a level necessary for good
absorbency and whiteness by utilising minimum time, energy and
chemicals as well as water.
Chemical Pretreatment
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Different fiber textiles undergo different preparatory processes.
Points of concern for effective pretreatment:
The level and type of impurities present
The chemicals used in the various stages of preparation
The water supply
The type of machinery used
What are the preparatory processes in general?
Singeing, Desizing, Scouring, Bleaching, Mercerization
Carbonizing, Degumming, Heat Setting
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PREPARATION BEFORE PRETREATMENT
INSPECTION
The most important point is to obtain fabrics "free from
exterior impurities" in order to achieve smooth and trouble
free results in the subsequent finishing systems.
It is checked whether the grey fabrics are in conformity with standards,
and all weaving faults are marked out.
MECHANICAL CLEANING OF FABRICS
Brushing to remove the short and loose fibers from the surface of the cloth.
Shearing is cutting of the loose strands of fibers from fabric with a sharp
edged razor or scissors.
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Except singeing and heat setting others involve wet processing.
The textile substrate is treated in a solution containing the
appropriate chemical to act on the impurity easing its removal.
Preparatory process can be carried out in fiber, yarn or fabric
form.
Different machines are used for textile preparation which
incorporate batch (discontinuous) and continuous processing.
Fibers and yarns are processed in batch/discontinuous systems.
Fabrics can be processed in batch and continuous systems either
in open width or in rope form
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• In batch processing, machines are used where the entire load of fabric
is immersed in total amount of solution needed for processing.
Example: Jigger
In continuous processing, the fabric moves continuously through stages
which provide the needed conditions for pretreatment.
The process can be semi or fully continuous.
THREE COMPONENT SYSTEM
Applicator where the fabric is impregnated with appropriate
chemicals
Holding station which provides reaction time and
temperature
Washing station for flushing out the impurities
o Saturator with pick up control
o Heating/steaming chamber
o Washers
⁂ The action of chemicals in the pretreatment process changes the
impurities into their simpler states which must be removed by
washing the substrate.
⁂ Washing is assisted by auxiliaries [soaps/detergents] which
enhance the efficiency of impurity removal.
⁂ Washing can be carried out in a similar apparatus used for
processing the substrate either in open width or rope form.
⁂ Separate washers are also available.
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ROPE WASHER
OPEN WIDTH WASHER
TEXTILE DRYING
Drying involves removal of excess water & keeps textile substrate
under standard moisture content before delivery to further chemical
processing or final use. Example: Cylinder dryer, Stenter
Convection using hot air
Conduction by passing over heated rollers
Radiation heating by means of infrared
