FEAR, ANXIETY & FEAR-AGGRESSION

IN DOGS
TABLE OF CONTENTS

PART 1: UNDERSTANDING FEAR & ANXIETY

What is fear, anxiety & stress?

Why some dogs more anxious than others

Signs of fear in dogs

Why some dogs use aggression

The ‘aggression ladder’

The importance of choice

Why punishment worsens anxiety

The effect of over-arousal

The effect of trigger stacking

Bite inhibition (bite severity)

PART 2: MANAGING FEAR & ANXIETY

Recognising fear & respond appropriately

Managing the environment

Establishing a safe haven

Enriching your dogs life

Using anti-anxiety medication

PART 3: TEACHING NEW BEHAVIOURS (TRAINING)

Foundation behaviours

Rewards, Cues & Markers

Back to table of contents

 PART 4: CHANGING BEHAVIOUR & EMOTIONAL RESPONSE
(BEHAVIOUR MODIFICATION)

Behaviour modi cation overview

Counterconditioning

Desensitisation

PART 5: HANDLING HUMANELY

The consequences of forceful restraint

Humane animal handling: The way forward

PART 6: SEEKING PROFESSIONAL HELP

Avoiding aversive / dominance-based training methods

Reward based training: The ethical, humane, modern approach

How to identify an ethical behaviour professionals

Red ags to avoid in a trainer

Trusted NZ behaviour professionals

PART 7: MUZZLE TRAINING MUZZLE TRAINING

Bene ts of a muzzle

Breaking the stigma

How to muzzle train

Choosing the right muzzle

Back to table of contents

fl
fi
fi
 PART 1: UNDERSTANDING FEAR & ANXIETY
WHAT IS FEAR, ANXIETY & STRESS?
Fear is an emotion that causes an animal to avoid things that are perceived as dangerous;
what or who the animal perceives as dangerous can be independent of actual risk and may
not match a human’s perception.
Anxiety is the anticipation of future danger that may be unknown, imagined, or real.
Anxiety is an involuntary response and is a very unpleasant experience.
Stress is the physiologic response triggered by anxiety and fear. It includes dilated pupils as
well as increased heart rate / respiratory rate / blood pressure.

WHY SOME DOGS ARE MORE ANXIOUS THAN OTHERS

1. GENETICS
Some dogs are predisposed to anxiety due to underlying abnormalities in brain
chemistry, which may be genetically inherited.

2. INADEQUATE SOCIALISATION
A common misconception is that fearful dogs have been abused in the past. However, more
often than not, it is improper socialisation during puppyhood that has caused the problem.
Dogs are born without fear then between 3-14 weeks of age (the ‘socialisation period’),
puppies explore their environment and learn what is ‘safe’ and ‘unsafe’. Puppies need to have
positive experiences with a variety of sights, sounds, places, people and other animals during
this period as this enables them to learn the coping skills to feel safe in a variety of situations.
Lack of, or negative experiences during this period can have lasting negative
impacts on a dog’s emotional responses to unfamiliar or fear-provoking situations in the
future.

3. LEARNED BEHAVIOUR & PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE

Dogs are constantly learning but unfortunately, when it comes to learning, fear trumps
everything; i.e. it is a lot easier to learn to be afraid, than it is to unlearn that fear.
Dogs learn by association; this means they learn to associate speci c situations with either
good or bad emotions, based on their previous experiences. Dogs also learn what helps them
feel safe in each situation (e.g. escape, avoidance, freezing or aggression); With repeated
‘practice’, these behaviours become learned and this is why without intervention, most
anxious animals become more reactive over time.

Back to table of contents

fi
Back to table of contents
Back to table of contents
Back to table of contents
Back to table of contents
SIGNS OF FEAR IN DOGS
When dogs are feeling anxious or afraid, they may display 4 types of behaviours to
communicate their emotional state; these are: Fight, Flight, Freeze & Fidget. These
behaviours are commonly called ‘distance-increasing’ or ‘diffusive’ because their
purpose is to de ect a threat; lessen the intensity of or diffuse a situation; and prevent
escalation towards aggression.

‘FLIGHT’ ‘FREEZE’
(‘Avoidant’)

• Avoiding eye contact • Standing still / immobility

• Turning head or body away • Creeping around / moving slowly
• Moving away • Refusing to eat
• Trying to escape • Lifting a front paw
• Cowering / crouching down • Dilated pupils
• Tucking the tail under • Wrinkled / furrowed brow
• Exposing the whites of the eye (‘whale • Ears down & back
eye’ / ‘half-moon eye’) • Mouth closed, lips drawn back
• Licking the nose / lips • Trembling, shaking
• Yawning • Rolling onto the back

‘FIDGET’ ‘FIGHT’
(‘Hyperactive’) (Aggression)

• Hyper-vigilant (on high alert, looking • Standing still with a stiff stance
all around) • Tail straight up or curved over the
• Increased activity & reactivity back
• Decreased closeness to owner • Direct stare
• Panting • Hair raised on the back (raised
• Trembling, shaking ‘hackles’)
• Pacing, restlessness, unable to settle • Snarling (displaying teeth)
• High pitched whining • Growling
• High pitched barking • Snapping
• Salivating (drooling) • Biting
• Barking aggressively
• Lunging

USEFUL VIDEOS ON DOG BODY LANGUAGE

◦ Kristin Crestejo
◦ Part 1: [Link]
◦ Part 2: [Link]
◦ Zoom Room: [Link]
◦ Photo montage: [Link]
◦ Fear free happy homes: Anxiety 101: [Link]

Back to table of contents

fl
WHY SOME DOGS USE AGGRESSION
A dog may use different coping strategies to deal with a perceived threat; this depends on the
situation, the dog’s prior learning and how the other individuals in an interaction behave. A
dog may use several strategies all at once or switch from one to another. Anxious animals may
even provoke a situation in an attempt to get more information because they are so uncertain
about how to respond.
Aggression may be the rst chosen strategy if a threat occurs quickly, at close quarters or the
dog is unable to escape. Aggression may also be chosen because the dog has learned that
aggression was successful in the past.
More commonly, however, aggression occurs because ‘diffusive’ behaviours (such as freezing
and avoidance) have been repeatedly misunderstood, ignored or responded to
inappropriately, and the dog has learned that these behaviours are ineffective, leading to a
dog who appears ‘unpredictable’ even though the aggression is entirely predictable (see
‘aggression ladder’). As a dog practices using aggression, she may even show fewer signs of
fear and appear more con dent despite the fact that the aggression is rooted in fear.

THE AGGRESSION LADDER

The aggression ladder is a sequence of gestures & body language that dogs may display when
feeling fearful or threatened. Each individual dog will have a different sequence of behaviours
& may have more or less steps in their ‘ladder’.
The ‘diffusive’ behaviours on the lower rungs of the ladder are designed to de ect the threat
and avoid escalation towards aggression. The gestures on the higher rungs of the ladder, such
as growling, snapping & biting mean “Stop. Leave me alone right now!” The sequence
culminates in aggression, only if all else fails.

Back to table of contents

fi
fi
fl
THE IMPORTANCE OF CHOICE
When fear is underlying a behaviour, choice is important; if a dog’s choice is removed, the
behaviour will likely escalate or move towards aggression.
In addition, dogs who are repeatedly subjected to stressful situations in which they cannot
escape may eventually stop trying to avoid the situation to the point where even if
opportunities to escape are presented, the dog takes no action. These dogs may ‘freeze’ and
appear ‘well-behaved’, cooperative or tolerant of whatever is being imposed on them despite
a negative emotional state due to a psychological phenomenon called ‘learned
helplessness’; This occurs when a human or animal is conditioned to believe that they are
utterly helpless and have no control over their circumstances. It is unethical to use this as a
strategy to gain a dog’s compliance.
Actions that take away your dog’s choice include:
• Restraining (including placing a muzzle without prior desensitisation)
• Grabbing / holding their collar
• Picking them up
• Holding them down
• Placing them on their side (‘alpha roll’)

WHY PUNISHMENT WORSENS ANXIETY

Decades ago, commonly-held beliefs about dog behaviour were based on the ‘wolf pack’
theory and suggested that unwanted behaviour from dogs was due to the dog wanting to be
the dominant ‘alpha dog’. ‘Dominance' models used aversive training methods such as
punishment, discipline, physical restraint and intimidation including yelling at, staring down,
’alpha rolls’ and other confrontational methods; these caused fear, pain and distress to
dogs. Since then, scientists have updated their knowledge of wolf social systems and dog
social behaviour and the ‘dominance’ theory has been thoroughly debunked.
However, some dog trainers still use aversive training methods and this poses serious welfare
concerns.
Aversive methods worsen anxiety & associated behaviours because they:
a) don’t address the underlying cause of the dog’s behaviour (usually fear & anxiety)
b) make the dog view people and the world as even more scary and unpredictable
c) cause many dogs to suppress early signs of fear thereby increasing the risk of
aggression without prior warning
d) reduce the quality of the relationship between the owner and the dog and breaks trust

Back to table of contents

THE EFFECT OF OVER-AROUSAL
All dogs have a natural baseline arousal level. When stimulating, exciting or stressful events
happen, your dogs arousal level is raised. If arousal goes above threshold (‘over-arousal’), a
dog can become wound up, hyperactive or over-excited and show inappropriate
behaviours such as mouthing, humping, barking, lunging and overly-rough play. During
over-arousal, a dog cannot think clearly or regulate his own behaviour and may even
show aggression.

Back to table of contents

 THE EFFECT OF TRIGGER STACKING
A trigger is anything that causes a dog to feel stress, arousal or fear. Each dog has its own
individual triggers. Trigger stacking is when a dog is exposed to a number of triggers all at
once or one after the other until the dog’s coping threshold is exceeded; this may
cause the dog to react ‘unpredictably’ with a stronger than usual reaction (such as
aggression), to a situation in which the dog is “usually ne.”

BITE INHIBITION (BITE SEVERITY)

Dogs are fast and can bite and release 3 times in the space of 1 second; so it is the dog who
decides whether or not he makes contact or causes harm i.e whether or not he ‘inhibits’
the bite.
Fearful dogs may also back up immediately after they have bitten, or bite from behind when
an interaction is ending in an attempt to stop the human from changing their behaviour &
doing something the dog thinks is worrying.
Different degrees of bite severity exist but regardless of severity, all bites should be taken as
a serious sign that the dog need urgent help:
1. Snapping: ‘Biting’ without making contact. This is a dog’s ‘warning’. Do not ‘punish’
this behaviour as it provides useful information i.e. that the dog was suf ciently distressed
to snap.
2. Super cial bites: Bites where no blood is drawn. These are also likely inhibited by the
dog but may result in worse bites in the future if the dog doesn’t receive help.
3. Multiple or deep bites: Bites with no inhibition from the dog, these pose a serious
safety risk to others.
Back to table of contents
fi
fi
fi
 PART 2: MANAGING FEAR & ANXIETY
RECOGNISING FEAR & RESPONDING APPROPRIATELY
Monitor your dog’s body language for signs of fear & anxiety and respond appropriately
by helping the dog feel safe.
Body language is your dog’s way of communicating that he is uncomfortable with the
situation or does not want to interact with a particular person or animal.
If your dog displays signs of aggression, such as growling, move away or remove the dog from
the situation to prevent escalation to a bite. Take note of what was occurring before the
growl so you can manage or avoid this situation in future.

MANAGING THE ENVIRONMENT

Fearful or anxious dogs should never be forced to stay in a situation in which they are
becoming progressively more fearful or panicked. Dogs do not just “get over it." Forcing
them to stay is likely to intensify the problem.
Avoid or actively manage situations in which your dog has shown signs of fear or
avoidance or is likely to be anxious (e.g. crowded environments, visitors, children, dog parks,
doggie daycare, kennels). If your dog is weary of unfamiliar people, don’t force her to interact
with people she’s uncomfortable with. If your dog is afraid of other dogs, avoid dog parks to
reduce stressful and unpredictable interactions with other dogs. Consider getting a pet sitter
when you go on holiday rather than putting your dog in a kennel.
For events & situations that are unavoidable (such as grooming & vet clinic visits), talk to your
groomer or vet about ways you can work together to manage the situation. Be an advocate for
your dog. See handout ‘Reducing the stress of vet visits & grooming” for further information
Avoid over-arousal & trigger stacking: Be aware of your dogs triggers and monitoring
for signs of stress and over-excitement to help you keep your dog below threshold. Teach your
dog a ‘down-stay’ to encourage calm behaviour.

Back to table of contents

ESTABLISHING A SAFE HAVEN
A safe haven is a special space where your dog can go to relax and escape stressful situations
such as storms, reworks or visitors. A safe haven can be a crate, room, modi ed piece of
furniture, closet, teepee, tent or ‘fort’ (e.g. blanket draped over a coffee table); it should be
away from the front door or high traf c areas and be off limits to scary things. Only
good things should happen in the safe haven.
The safe haven should contain a comfortable resting area and all the fun things your dog likes
such as food dispensing and puzzle toys. You can dim the lights, close the blinds and play
classical music, audiobooks or white noise to block out sounds. A dog appeasing pheromone
such as an Adaptil Diffuser™ (Ceva) may also help to create a relaxing environment.
Practice sending your dog to her safe haven at least once a day for special treats, toys, or
attention. For dogs that are fearful of unfamiliar people in the home, ask visitors to call or
text ahead of time and place your dog in the safe haven before they arrive.

Back to table of contents

fi
fi
fi
 ENRICHING YOUR DOG’S LIFE
Enrichment provides mental stimulation, prevents boredom, burns energy and reduces stress
and anxiety in dogs. Anxious dogs crave predictability so try to stick to the same times for
feeding, walking, training & departing from home.
FOOD
Throw away the food bowl; instead, use food dispensing toys (e.g. Kong®), puzzle feeders,
slow feeders, ‘licki mats’, snuf e mats and frozen treats to encourage your dog to work for his
food and enhance problem-solving skills. You can also use mealtimes for training using each
kibble as a reward.
TOYS & PLAY
Playing with your dog is a great way to reward, build con dence and improve your
relationship. Tug-of-war, fetch and irt poles are great ways to play interactively with your
dog. Take turns winning and rotate your dogs toys weekly. Teach new tricks and keep it fun!
EXERCISE
Aerobic exercise such as running off-lead is important and can help reduce anxiety. If your
dog’s recall is not good, use a 10m long line to give your dog some freedom while still
maintaining control.

FURTHER RESOURCES
• Con [Link]
• [Link]
• [Link]

Back to table of contents

fi
fl
fl
fi
ANTI-ANXIETY MEDICATION
HOW BEHAVIOURAL MEDICATIONS WORK
The brain is hardwired to create negative emotions when in an anxious or fearful state; an
animal in this state simply cannot relax, focus or learn new coping skills.
Anti-anxiety medication improves your dog’s emotional state and increases learning
pathways in the brain leading to the formation of positive associations at an increased rate.
Medications are not a cure-all and should accompany behaviour modi cation and
management.

WHO CAN PRESCRIBE BEHAVIOURAL MEDICATIONS

Most veterinarians can prescribe anti-anxiety medications. However, knowledge and
experience using these medications varies between vets.
A veterinary behaviourist has expert knowledge and experience using behavioural
medications and has a thorough understanding of their interactions, side effects, effectiveness
and suitability for speci c problems. They can tailor a medication plan to suit your dog’s
needs and combine the plan with a behaviour-modi cation program. However, with only a
small number of quali ed veterinary behaviourists in New Zealand, demand exceeds
availability and long wait times can be expected.

FINDING THE RIGHT DOSE

Individual response to medication varies between dogs. Trialling different dosages or
combinations of medications may be necessary before the most effective protocol is found.
Response to the medication also depends on the intensity of the trigger; it is recommended to
give a test dose at home (without exposure to any triggers) to assess the response; the goal is
relaxation without undesirable side effects, such as excessive sedation, hyperactivity or
excessive hunger. Bear in mind that some sedation is desirable to counteract the adrenaline
from the fear response that is activated once the dog is exposed to the trigger.

LONG TERM MEDICATIONS

Long term medications include anti-depressants such as Fluoxetine (Prozac®), Clomipramine
(Clomicalm®), Sertriline and amitriptyline. They take 3-5 weeks to take effect.

SHORT ACTING MEDICATIONS

Short acting medications last a few hours and can be used for short term situational anxiety in
addition to long term medications. Short acting medications include benzodiazepines
(Diazepam, Clonazepam, Lorazepam), trazodone, clonidine, gabapentin and pregabalin.

Back to table of contents

fi
fi
fi
fi
 PART 3: TEACHING NEW BEHAVIOURS
Reward-based training (a.k.a positive reinforcement) involves rewarding a dog for a
desired behaviour, whether the dog has performed it naturally or in response to a cue given by
the trainer. When done correctly, reward-based training encourages dogs to think for
themselves and leads to high obedience with few training or behavioural problems.

FOUNDATION BEHAVIOURS
Foundation behaviours help with behaviour modi cation (see next section) because they
encourage relaxation, focus on the handler and give the dog an alternative desirable
behaviour to perform instead of a previous undesirable behaviour. Foundation behaviours
include: sit, down, sit-stay, down-stay, eye contact (‘look’) and hand targeting
(‘touch’). Foundation behaviours should be taught independently of any negative
triggers.

REWARDS
Rewards include treats, praise or play. Treats are the simplest & least complicated so are
used most frequently. Initially, use high-value rewards (e.g favourite treats); with time and
repetition, rewards may be lower value or given less frequently. A treat pouch is a
convenient way to keep treats out of the way yet easy to reach so your dog can focus on the
task rather than the treats in your hand. A pouch also allows you to have treats on hand for
positive reinforcement of desired behaviours at any time.

Initially, you can use the food reward as a lure to guide your dog into a desired behaviour.
Gradually, replace the lure with a cue (below).

CUES (COMMANDS)
Cues are the signals that convey to the dog which behaviour is being requested. Cues are
sometimes referred to as ‘commands’. They can be verbal (i.e. words) or hand signals.
Cues should be short, uncomplicated and not be repeated more than 2-3 times. Avoid using
too many words. The goal is to be as clear and concise as possible. e.g. simple say“sit” instead
of “Sit, Fido, sit down, common, sit down”.

Back to table of contents

fi
MARKERS (“YES” SIGNALS)
A ‘marker’ is a sound that tells the dog a treat is coming. Markers improve learning
(compared to treats alone) because they bridge the gap between the behaviour being
performed and treat delivery; Delayed treat delivery (sometimes several seconds) causes
confusion for dogs about which behaviour earned the reward; the marker is used to signal the
exact moment the dog is performing the desired behaviour.
Common markers are the word “yes” (said
in a distinct, sharp tone) or a ‘click’ sound
(using a clicker or tongue). Start by pairing
the marker with a treat repeatedly (without
requesting a behaviour) until that the dog
learns that the sound predicts the treat. Once
the dog know the marker sound, use it to
‘mark’ desired behaviour.
Timing is key; as soon as the dog performs
the desired behaviour, immediately say
“yes” then follow immediately with a treat.

PRACTICE
Repetition is key! Spread training throughout the day and use mealtimes to practice, using
each kibble as a reward. Consistency is important so make sure everyone in the household
is training the same way. Avoid distractions; Teach new behaviours in a calm environment
with minimal distractions. Once your dog has mastered the skill, you can practice in gradually
more distracting environments to simulate real-life.

Back to table of contents

 PART 4: CHANGING BEHAVIOUR & EMOTIONAL
RESPONSES
BEHAVIOUR MODIFICATION OVERVIEW
Many anxious dogs will bene t from behaviour modi cation to reduce reactivity to triggers &
change the emotional response from anxious to relaxed.

The most commonly used methods for behaviour modi cation are counterconditioning and
desensitisation. The two methods are often combined.

The keys to successful behaviour modi cation are:

1. The environment and exposure is controlled.
2. The dog is never pushed beyond its fear threshold.
3. The dog’s body language is monitored for signs of anxiety to determine when to
move forward and when to stop to allow the dog return to a more relaxed state
4. Aversive training methods such as punishment are avoided as these increase anxiety
and are counterproductive.
5. Physical manipulations without prior warning or consent are avoided as this can
break trust. i.e. get consent & give the dog warning before touching / moving him.

COUNTERCONDITIONING
In counterconditioning, rewards are paired with exposure to a trigger (e.g person, noise,
object, situation, environment) to create a positive association with that trigger. Giving
treats during a vet visit is a common example of counterconditioning.

DON’T ‘POISON THE STEAK’

During counterconditioning (especially when counterconditioning against a neutral trigger),
rewards can be given freely in order to let the dog know what the ‘currency’ is and to get
them into a positive emotional state. However, when counterconditioning to a negative
trigger, the order of events is important; the reward should be given after the
stimulus, not before (e.g. vaccination then treat, ‘in the bath’ then treats start, let the dog
hear car in the driveway then food starts owing, let the dog see another dog at a distance
then give treats). Doing it the wrong way around (giving the reward before the trigger)
inadvertently creates a negative association with the reward (‘poisons the steak’) and creates a
‘suspicious’ dog.

Back to table of contents

fi
fi
fl
fi
fi
 DESENSITISATION
Desensitisation involves gradual repeated exposure to a trigger until the dog is
‘desensitised’ to that trigger. Exposure starts at the lowest intensity (one at which the dog does
not react) and gradually increases as the dog becomes less reactive. Desensitisation is usually
combined with counterconditioning and is an effective strategy for noise phobias (e.g
reworks, thunderstorms).

AVOID FLOODING: “STAY ON THE BEACH”

Exposing a dog to triggers at intensity levels above their threshold for reactivity, in the hopes
that they will “get used to it” is called ‘ ooding’ and will only serve to overwhelm the dog and
worsen the problem.
The stress scale below can be used to determine whether exposure is at the correct level
(one which will achieve successful desensitisation) or whether you need to backtrack to a lower
intensity. It requires monitoring your dog for signs of stress. The goal is to stay in the green or
blue zones (“on the beach”) and to only increase the exposure level if the dog remains “on the
beach” the entire time.

Back to table of contents

fi
fl
 PART 5: HANDLING HUMANE
All dogs need to endure various ‘husbandry’ (animal care) procedures such as nail trimming,
grooming, injections, blood draws, examination, restraint & taking medications at some point
in their lifetime.
For far too long, the attitude towards dog handling has been, “do it because I said so” .
However, there is growing awareness of the importance of engaging cooperation and
giving dogs some control over the procedures we ask them to endure. Increasingly,
veterinarians & animal care professionals are taking low-stress, fear-free approaches to animal
care.
However, it’s equally important for pet owners to do their part to make health care less
stressful for their pet; this includes choosing the right professional (and avoiding those using
force), training your dog ‘cooperative care’ and preparing your dog for procedures by using
behaviour modi cation.

THE CONSEQUENCES OF FORCEFUL RESTRAINT

Restraining dogs in a forceful manner can make things worse to the point where they can
no longer receive thorough care. A dog who is struggling when being handled for a procedure
or examination is likely confused or afraid; restraint will only make this worse.
With each negative experience, dif cult behaviour is likely to worsen and the dog may
escalate towards aggression. For dogs who are already weary of unfamiliar people, a single
negative experience can cause them to develop a generalised fear and suspicion of
anyone new.

HUMANE ANIMAL HANDLING: THE WAY FORWARD

COOPERATIVE CARE
Cooperative care involves training an animal to be an active, willing participant in handling
and husbandry procedures.

LOW STRESS HANDLING

Low stress handling certi cation is available for veterinarians and animal handers. The
program was created by world-renown behaviourist and veterinarian, Dr. Sophia Yin, who
also published the comprehensive guide for veterinarians “Low stress handling, restraint &
behaviour modi cation of dogs & cats”

FEAR-FREE
In 2016, veterinarian, Dr. Marty Becker, launched ‘Fear Free’, a certi cation program
training veterinary professionals how to minimise fear in their patients. The program is now
also available to dog trainers and groomers.

Back to table of contents

fi
fi
fi
fi
fi
 PART 6: SEEKING PROFESSIONAL HELP
AVOIDING AVERSIVE / DOMINANCE-BASED TRAINING METHODS
Unfortunately, the dog ‘training’ industry is not regulated so anyone can call themselves
a ‘trainer’ or ‘behaviourist’ without any credentials. Credentials also don’t guarantee the
trainer is using ethical, humane, scienti cally based methods. Unfortunately, many dog
trainers are still using aversive training methods and this poses serious concerns for
dog welfare. It’s important to seek behaviour and training advice only from those
using modern, positive based methods. This is especially important for dogs who are
already anxious.

THE DOMINANCE MYTH

Decades ago, commonly-held beliefs about dog behaviour were based on the ‘wolf pack’
theory and suggested that unwanted behaviour from dogs was due to the dog wanting to be
dominant or the “alpha” dog. ‘Dominance theory’ has since been thoroughly debunked by
science.
‘Dominance models’ use aversive training techniques such as “alpha rolls”, staring the
dog down or other confrontational methods and punishment which can caused fear, pain
and distress to dogs. These methods do not address the underlying cause of the unwanted
behaviour and often increase the dog’s fear and anxiety which can actually make the
unwanted behaviour worse. Aversive methods also reduce the quality of the relationship
between the owner and the dog and can place the owner at serious risk of physical injury.

REWARD BASED TRAINING: THE ETHICAL, HUMANE, MODERN

APPROACH
Research has shown that reward-based training is more effective and more humane.
Reward-based training focuses on teaching animals by increasing their motivation and
improving their emotional state, without using force.

Back to table of contents

fi
 HOW TO IDENTIFY AN ETHICAL BEHAVIOUR PROFESSIONAL
• Look on their website or social media for a description of their training methods.
Words like ‘reward-based’ or ‘positive reinforcement’ is a good sign. Photographs or
videos can be helpful as well. Look for animals being rewarded for doing the desired
behaviour.
• Ask about their education and experience. At a minimum, the trainer should have
taken classes in animal behaviour and psychology. Research any credentials your
trainer has earned and understand what the requirements are to obtain the
certi cation.
• Ask if there are any behaviour problems they are not prepared to handle. A
reputable trainer is self-aware and recognises when a client needs to be referred
elsewhere or work with a veterinary behaviourist.
• Ask to observe a class or a training session.
• Ask yourself if you and your pet feel comfortable with the techniques being
suggested.

RED FLAGS TO AVOID IN A TRAINER

• Guarantees that training will be successful. Guarantees are unrealistic and
impossible. Behaviour can never be guaranteed. Quali ed trainers and behaviour
professionals are willing to admit and discuss this.
• Be cautious of trainers who’s websites are vague about methods used. Trainers
that use aversive methods are not always upfront about it, hence why vague
communication about methods is a red ag. Again, photographs and videos can be
helpful. Avoid trainers that use aversive methods or physical force.
• Ask the trainer if they use or recommend prong collars, shock collars, or choke
chains. These aversive tools should not be used. You may see these tools in the
trainer’s photographs or videos.
• Avoid trainers who reference dominance theory or being the “alpha” or “top
dog”

TRUSTED NEW ZEALAND BEHAVIOUR PROFESSIONALS

• Veterinary behaviourists
• Dr. Jess Beer, Kiwi Vet Behaviour - [Link]
• Dr. Elsa Flint, Animals with Attitude - [Link]
• Clinical animal behaviourists
• Hannah Sadgrove, ThinkDog - [Link]
• Dog trainers
• Force Free Dog Training NZ - comprehensive list of trainers regularly updated
(click on ‘Files’ in the menu) - Force Free Facebook page
• Association of Professional Dog Trainers NZ (ADTP) training directory:
[Link]
Back to table of contents
fi
fl
fi
 PART 7: MUZZLE TRAINING
All dogs have the potential to bite but dogs that have shown aggression in the past should
especially be conditioned to wear a muzzle.

THE BENEFITS OF A MUZZLE

• Provide reassurance & peace of mind for you and those around you
• Keep other dogs & people safe
• Allow you to focus on rewarding good behaviour
• Allow reactive dogs to go on walks & other outings that they would otherwise miss out on
• Prevent your dog from developing a bite history, which may carry serious rami cations
• Create safe veterinary visits so you & your veterinarian can relax (which in turn will help
your dog relax). May also help vets perform a more thorough examination
• Send a visual signal to give your dog space. Visit [Link] for ‘Ignore my
dog’ apparel.
• Prevent your dog from scavenging or attacking wildlife on walks
A muzzle will not x your dog’s reactivity and is not a green light to put your dog into a
situation that will cause him to react. Even though he may not be able to bite, the situation
will only serve to strengthen his reactivity.

Back to table of contents

fi
fi
BREAKING THE STIGMA
Dogs who wear muzzles should not be judged as ‘bad dogs’; their owners should be
praised for being responsible and keeping everyone safe.
A popular way to reduce the visual stigma of a muzzle is to decorate it using colourful
adhesive foam, eece wrap, fabric tape or rhinestones. See: [Link]
2019/08/modifying-your-dogs-muzzle-an-equipment-guide/
There is a lot of work being done on breaking the stigma of dog muzzles through social
media. Visit [Link] to see photos of many dogs
proudly wearing their muzzles

HOW TO MUZZLE TRAIN

You can train your dog to absolutely love wearing a muzzle if you go slow and follow the right
steps. Check out these online resources on how to train your dog to wear a muzzle:
• Search hashtag #muzzletraining on Facebook
• [Link]
• [Link]
uploads/2019/10/[Link]
• [Link]
• [Link]
• [Link]
Back to table of contents
fl
 CHOOSING THE RIGHT MUZZLE
GETTING THE RIGHT FIT
Measure your dog’s nose length, width, height, circumference as well as the circumference of
your dog’s neck & compare these to the manufacturer’s sizing guides as appropriate.
A well- tted muzzle should:
• Be comfortable & not rub on the dog’s eyes or face
• Be secure so the dog can’t paw it off
• Allow the dog to pant and bark
• Avoid fabric or cloth muzzles as they do not allow dogs to pant. These should
not be used for more than a few minutes.
• Allow the dog to eat & drink
• The ability to feed treats through a muzzle is important as it allows us to use
‘counterconditioning’.
• For ideas on what you can feed through a muzzle, visit: [Link]
4MhPKIWDJs8

Back to table of contents

fi
 BASKERVILLE ULTRA®
This muzzle is considered by many to be the gold standard for a safe and comfortable basket
muzzle. [Link]
Product features include:
• Durable, exible rubber
• Neoprene padding on the straps to prevent cha ng
• Safety strap that ts over the head to ensure a secure t (optional)
• Wide holes guarantee your dog can eat, drink and pant
• Can be shaped by placing in boiling water: [Link] vI

BUMAS®
Bumas is a German based company that produces colourful, comfortable muzzles available in
standard, customisable or breed-speci c: [Link]

Back to table of contents

fl
fi
fi
fi
fi
fi
MUZZLES FOR ‘TOUGH-TO-FIT’ DOGS:
• Very long slim-nosed breeds (Greyhounds)
• h t t p s : / / g rey h o u n d g e a r. c o m . a u / p ro d u c t s / a u s s i e - s t y l e - ya rd - mu z z l e ?
variant=40508696297612
• [Link]
anti-scavenge-muzzle/
• Broad nosed breeds (English bulldogs, boxers, English bull terriers)
• Try the Baskerville ‘ultra’, moulded to the correct shape
• Baskerville ‘wide t’: [Link]
baskerville-wide- t-muzzle
• Flat-faced small breeds (Pugs, French bulldogs, chihuahuas)
• These are especially challenging. Google search ’short snout fabric muzzle’
• Very small / toy breeds
• Challenging to nd small enough muzzles
• [Link] ve-best-dog-muzzles-for-tough-to- t-dogs/

MUZZLE COMPARISON & REVIEWS

• [Link]
• [Link]

Back to table of contents

fi
fi
fi
fi
fi