UNIT 4 POST-COCOON SECTOR

Structure
4.0 Objectives
4.1 Introduction
4.2 Raw Material - Cocoon
4.3 Cocoon Quality
4.4 Reeling Process
4.5 Raw Silk Testing and Grading
4.6 Twisting
4.7 Weaving Process
4.8 Wet Processing
4.9 Project for 100 ends Multi-end reeling basin unit to produce 10 kg raw silk/
day
4.10 Let Us Sum Up
4.11 Glossary
4.12 Suggested Further Reading
4.13 References
4.14 Answers to Check Your Progress

4.0 OBJECTIVES
After reading this unit, you will be able to:
l assess the quality of cocoon used for reeling;
l discuss about different processes involved in reeling and other processes to be
followed to process raw silk;
l identify the job opportunities in post-cocoon sector; and
l determine the profitability of a reeling unit.

4.1 INTRODUCTION
In the previous units, you have understood about the various entrepreneurial
opportunities in mulberry cultivation and silkworm rearing. In this unit, opportunities
in the post-cocoon sectors are discussed. Among all the textile fibres, silk occupies
the top place for the qualities of softness, lustre, dyeability, durability and elegance
and is regarded as the queen of textiles. The end products are saris, dress materials,
scarves, wall hangings, furnishing materials, neck-ties and also for industrial applications
such as parachutes and electric insulation etc.

4.2 RAW MATERIAL - COCOON

The silkworm after passing through the larval stages spins the cocoons, the raw
54 material for silk reeling. Basically, there are 2 proteins which forms the silk fibre i.e.,
“fibroin” which constitutes the core, the fibre and “sericin”, a waxy substance which Post-Cocoon Sector
encases the fibroin. These proteins are ejected from silk glands and harden into a
fine filament on coming into contact with the air. The silkworm uses this filament to
spin a cocoon in which it virtually entombs itself. Spinning of cocoon is completed in
2-3 days and caterpillar changes into pupa. If pupa is not killed, a moth develops in
about 2 weeks and makes the cocoons unfit for spinning. Such cocoons are
transacted in the markets for reeling.

Check Your Progress 1

Note: a) Use the spaces given below for your answers.
b) Check your answer with those given at the end of the unit.
1) What is silk?
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2) What are the uses of silk?
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3) What is cocoon?
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4.3 COCOON QUALITY

The quality of cocoons plays an important role in the production of quality raw silk.
Following processes contribute to the quality of cocoons.
i) Mounting
Mounting hall temperature (25°C) and humidity (60-70%) have to be maintained.
Rotary mountages are to be used preferably to maintain uniformity in shape and
size. Spinning silkworm should not be disturbed by means of sound, vibration or
shocks. This will interrupt the continuous flow of filament. Air circulation should be
proper in the mounting hall. Early picking of mature silkworm for spinning or late
picking of silkworms must be avoided.
ii) Handling of Cocoons
Care has to be taken to avoid pressing of cocoons and damages caused by insects,
incorrect storage of fresh cocoons and appropriate time of harvesting. 55
Entrepreneurial Opportunities iii) Storing of Cocoons
in Sericulture
Cocoons must be stored in thin layer permitting good ventilation of heat generated
and humidity (60% RH) and temperature (25°C) must be maintained in the storage
room.
iv) Transportation of Cocoons
Before packing, cocoons should be sorted into good and bad cocoons and packed
loosely in the container with full perforated bags. When loading, do not drop the
cocoon bags. Transport cocoons during the cooler hours.
The quality of the cocoons is decided considering the following parameters:
a) Colour – It is a racial character and least affected by climatic and rearing
condition. Different colours can be seen in cocoons like yellow, white, pink,
golden yellow, green etc. The colour is present only in sericin and it will be
dissolved while boiling cocoon. But, urination in mountages stains the cocoons.
b) Shape – It is a racial character and changes due to bad mountages.
c) Size – It is a racial character and also depends on rearing conditions. It is
measured in terms of length, breadth and diameter. (Generally measured in
terms of number of cocoons/litre)
l 60-70 nos./litre–Large,
l 70-80 nos./litre–Medium; and
l 80-90 nos./litre–Small.
d) Grains/Wrinkle– It is a racial character and also depends on the type of
mounting conditions. Generally, grains existing in the outer layer are comparatively
bigger and coarser. Reelability is good in cocoons with coarser grains.
e) Touch / Cocoon Hardness - Cocoon hardness is related to the dense formation
of the cocoon layer. Commonly, it is evaluated by pressing the cocoons by
fingers. Healthy silkworm spins a thick layer with moderate hardness. High
humidity and low temperature during spinning leads to soft cocoons. Low
humidity and high temperature leads to hard cocoons. Hardness reduces the
reelability. Softness increases the defects.
f) Thickness of the Shell - Evenly thickened shell is desirable for more raw silk
yield. Oval and ball shaped cocoons are even and good for reeling. Peanut and
spindle shaped cocoons are uneven and not preferred for reeling.
g) Cocoon Weight - It is a racial character and it involves shell, pupa, cast of
skin and palade layer. Female cocoons are generally heavier than males. Male
cocoons yield more silk than females.
h) Cocoon Shell Weight/ratio - It is a racial character and also depends on the
rearing conditions. Higher the shell weight, higher the raw silk weight. Weight
of the shell to the weight of the cocoon is expressed in percentage. Generally
male cocoons have higher cocoon shell ratio than females. High cocoon shell
ratio cocoons will have low egg productivity and are easily susceptible to
diseases. Raw silk yield is directly proportional to the shell ratio. It is calculated
using the following formula:

Shell Ratio of 20 Cocoons

Shell ratio = × 100
Weight of 20 Cocoons
56
i) Cocoon Filament Length - It is a length of the filament, unwounded by a Post-Cocoon Sector
single cocoon after cooking or boiling. Longer the filament length, better will be
the reeling performance and raw silk quality. It is a racial character and also
depends on the rearing condition.
j) Size of the Filament
l Size of the filament is expressed as denier.
l Size of the cocoon filament / bave varies from 1.1 to 3.3 denier.
l Generally, outer layer is coarser than the middle and inner layers.
l If rearing temperature is higher (summer), coarser will be the denier.
l Higher the filament length lesser will be the denier and bave will be stronger.
l Denier of silk filament is calculated using the following formula:

Wt. in gms. (0.300 g)

Denier = Length in mts. × 9000 Example = (1000 m) × 9000 = 2.7d.

k) Reelability - It is the unwinding of filament without break/drop of a cocoon.

It is expressed in percentage and calculated as below:

Total no. of cocoons reeled

Reelability = × 100
Total [Link] castings

(300)
Example = (320) × 100 = 94%

l) Percentage of Raw Silk Yield - Amount of raw silk obtained from the cocoons
and it is expressed in percentage and calculated as below:

Silk obtained 15 g
Raw silk % = Cocoon weight × 100 Example = 100 g × 100 = 15%

m) Raw Silk Recovery % - It is calculated using the following formula:

Raw silk % 15
RSR % = × 100 Example = × 100 = 83%
Shell Ratio % 18
n) Renditta : It is the quantity of cocoons required to produce 1kg of raw silk
and is calculated using the following formula:

Quantity of cocoon taken for reeling 6 Kg

Renditta = Example = 1 Kg = 6
Silk obtained

o) Estimation of Renditta - Renditta can be calculated by measuring the following

characters, constant values and formula.
i) Good cocoon percentage (M1)
ii) Shell ratio percentage (M2)
iii) Raw silk recovery percentage (by using constant) (M3)

57
Entrepreneurial Opportunities Constants : Shell ratio Raw silk recovery percentage
in Sericulture
13 – 15 55%
15.1 – 18 60%
18.1 – 20 70%
20.1 – above 75%

1 1
Estimated renditta = Example = =7.9
M1×M2×M3 90/100×20/100×70/100
Note: If the good cocoon percentage is 90 and shell ratio is 20, calculate the estimated
renditta using the above standards and formula.

Check Your Progress 2

Note: a) Use the spaces given below for your answers.
b) Check your answer with those given at the end of the unit.
1) How do you assess the cocoon quality?
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2) What do you understand by the following terms?
a) Cocoon shell % b) Cocoon filament length c) Cocoon filament denier
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4.4 REELING PROCESS

The transacted cocoons are taken to reeling units for producing silk. Following are
the activities involved in this process and are explained below:
FLOW CHART OF REELING

Cocoon Testing and Marketing Cocoon Stifling Cocoon Storing

Reeling Brushing Cocoon Cooking Cocoon sorting

Re - Reeling Lacing Skeinning Book Making

Raw Silk Testing and Grading

58
 Post-Cocoon Sector

4.4.1 Stifling of Cocoons

Stifling is the process of killing the pupae without affecting shell to obtain the continuous
silk filament. Generally, hot air stifling (Fig.4.1) method is employed. Removal of
20-30% of moisture is sufficient for killing the pupa. Removal of 30-40% moisture
content is called partial drying. If the cocoons are to be kept for longer period it has
to be fully dried i.e., removal of up to 60-70% of moisture content. There are
different methods:
l Sun drying
l Steam stifling
l Hot air stifling
l X-Ray irradiation
l Infra red irradiation
l Cold air
Fig.4.1: Hot Air Stifling
l Chemical methods etc.,
Cocoons must be harvested in general on the 6th day and then cocoons have to be
stifled within two days after cocoon harvesting.

4.4.2 Preservation of Stifled Cocoons

Since all the stifled cocoons cannot be
reeled immediately, they have to be
preserved properly to protect them from
rats, ants and pests attack.
l The preservation rooms must be well
ventilated with exhaust fans.
l Humidity should not go beyond 70%
RH and temperature should not go
below 25° C.
l Preserve cocoons in PVC/bamboo
Fig.4.2: Cocoon Storage rack with
container instead of jute or cotton bag. perforation
l The containers must be arranged in shelves.
l Storeroom should be ant and rat proof, windows must be covered with wire
mesh.

4.4.3 Sorting of Cocoons

Now, we shall learn about the sorting of cocoons, which is an important process in
the reeling activity to obtain good quality silk. The sorting is done for the purpose of
removing the below mentioned types of defective cocoons.
l Removal of un-reelable, abnormal & unhealthy cocoons, which are defective
(Fig. 4.3)
l To produce homogenous quality.
l Sorting is generally done by hand and under the light (Fig.4.4). 59
Entrepreneurial Opportunities
in Sericulture

Fig. 4.3: Defective Cocoons

Fig. 4.4: Cocoon Sorting

4.4.4 Cooking
1) Wetting / retting: The cocoons are retted at 70 – 75 °C for 60 – 90 seconds.
2) High Temperature Treatment: The cocoons are treated at 90 - 92 °C for
90 – 120 seconds.
3) Low Temperature Treatment : The cocoons are treated at 70 – 75 °C for
60 – 90 seconds (permeation).
4) Cooking: Using steam the cocoons are treated at 97–98 °C for 90–120
seconds and then immersed in 97°C water for 60 seconds.
5) Conditioning : (Adjusting part) The treatment is carried out by sprinkling the
cold water and reducing the temperature from 97 to 70°C in about 4 to 6
minutes. Then, it is brushed and supplied to reeling.

Fig. 4.5: Cooking

4.4.5 Brushing
Brushing is an operation in which correct ends from the cooked cocoons are grouped
to facilitate reeling. Brushing operation has a direct relation to silk waste generation
and by using proper methodology, waste generation can be reduced and productivity
can be enhanced (Fig. 4.6).

60
 Post-Cocoon Sector

Fig. 4.6: Brushing

4.4.6 Reeling
Raw silk reeling is a process of combining number of ends of the cocoon filaments
together to form a single thread of desired denier. Since reeling operation bears a
close relationship to work efficiency and raw silk quality, it is necessary to give much
attention and take great care in the use of techniques, machinery and management to
produce good quality raw silk. Silk reeling in India is carried out on a variety of
reeling gadgets viz., charaka, Cottage basin and multi-end reeling machines (Fig.4.7).

Fig. 4.6: Multi-end Reeling

4.4.7 Re-reeling
Re-reeling is done to transfer the raw silk reeled on small reel to large reel (1.5
meter circumference) for adjusting width, and length of the skein uniformity. The
other important objectives are to eliminate gum spots in the reeled silk, tie up any
loose ends to form continuous length of silk thread to eliminate thin places and to
ensure smooth and efficient operation during the winding process (Fig.4.8).

Fig. 4.8: Re-reeling

61
Entrepreneurial Opportunities 4.4.8 Lacing of Skeins
in Sericulture

Silk skeins should be laced in order to keep the silk threads intact and avoid
entanglements. Silk skeins are laced at 6 places using the cotton thread in the form
of “8”. In order to facilitate the findings of ends of skeins during the next process, it
is essential to join and tie the top end and the tail end together by extra lacing thread
which is inserted in the middle of the breadth of the skeins. Each lacing will have 4
stitches to form 5 loops. Lot of care should be taken during lacing and removal of
silk skiens from the large reel to avoid breaking of silk threads (Fig.4.9).

Fig. 4.9: Lacing of Skeins

4.4.9 Skein Twisting

For easy handling of skein and to protect the skein, twisting of the skein is done. Silk
skeining is being done by two methods viz., small skeining (twisted and folded type
with one end arranged in a form like a flower – presently practised in India) and long
skeining (twisted and unfolded type – practised in sericulturally advanced countries).

Fig. 4.10: Lacing of skeins

4.4.10 Book Making

Book making is the process in which raw silk skeins are bundled for convenient
handling. Folded small skeins are usually made into 2 kgs. books. In case of long
skeins, long books are made weighing 5 kgs. The books are pressed and bundled
and tied using cotton yarn (Fig.4.11).

62
 Post-Cocoon Sector

Fig. 4.11: Book making of skeins

Check Your Progress 3

Note: a) Use the spaces given below for your answers.
b) Check your answer with those given at the end of the unit.
1) What is reelability?
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2) What is renditta?
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3) Why do you stifle the cocoons?
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4) How do you store the cocoons?
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4.5 RAW SILK TESTING AND GRADING

a) The raw silk is tested to understand the quality for:
l facilitating fair transactions,
l providing a standard quality improvement by the manufactures (reelers),
and 63
Entrepreneurial Opportunities l providing opportunity to consumers of raw silk (weavers) for suitable
in Sericulture
selection.
b) Raw Silk Classification: Classification based on the size.
Sizes Grades
18 denier and below 6A, 5A, 4A, 3A, 2A, A, B, C, D
19 denier to 33 denier 6A, 5A, 4A, 3A, 2A, A, B, C, D, E
34 denier and above 4A, 3A, 2A, A, B, C, D, E.

4.6 TWISTING
The raw silk twisting operations are: Soaking, Winding, Doubling, Twisting, Twist
Setting and Re-winding.

4.6.1 Soaking
The ingredients of soaking bath are soap, coconut oil, castor oil or Turkey red oil,
etc. The main objectives of this process are:
l to soften the skein for smooth unwinding,
l to reduce breaks in further processes, and
l to soften gum and lubricate the yarn to make it more pliable and ductile.
Method : Mix the required quantity of soaking agents in clean water. Heat it to 35
to 40 °C. Then dip the raw silk for 24 hours into it. Take out and dry the silk. Drying
can be outdoor (shaded place) or indoor (in a drying room).

4.6.2 Winding
Semi-dried skeins after soaking are subjected to winding process for better results.
The objectives of this process are:
l conversion of raw silk skein into double flanged bobbins,
l to get long continuous length of yarn, and
l to eliminate slubs, weak places, defective knots, etc.
Method: Silk yarn is mounted on a swift or creel. Creel is weighted by means of a
dead weight to keep it under sufficient tension, so that winding rate is uniform. The
winding speed is dependent on the denier of the raw silk thread and the winding
operation is conducted at 25 ± 2°C temperature and 65 ± 2% relative humidity.

4.6.3 Doubling
In order to produce twisted silk, two or more threads are wound parallel on to one
twisting bobbin. Doubling may be 2 ply, 3 ply, 4 ply or even more depending upon
the nature of fabric required. This process increases yarn evenness, strength and
fabric cover.
Method: The doubling machine consists of a creel for mounting double-flanged
winding bobbins. The yarn from the creel passes through thread guides and stop
motion mechanism and is wound onto a double-flanged bobbin as a folded yarn.

64
4.6.4 Twisting Post-Cocoon Sector

The objectives of twisting process are to:

l increase strength of yarn,
l increase elasticity,
l enhances the appearance and feel of yarn and fabric, and
l to give a rounded appearance i.e., more uniform.
However, amount of twist to be imparted depends on the type of fabric manufactured.
Method: Usually works on the up-twisting principle. Doubling bobbin is mounted
on vertical spindle and the yarn is wound on perforated metal bobbins. Twist is
imparted because of difference in speed of spindle and winding drum. Increasing or
decreasing the drum speed with respect to spindle speed can alter twist. The flyer is
a fine gauge wire with loops at the end of each arm on either side and rests on the
double-flanged bobbin. It helps the yarn to keep at a distance from bobbin (without
friction) and facilitates twisting. Perforated bobbins which take up the twisted yarn
are made of aluminum or plastic as they needs to be heat and stretch resistant.

4.6.5 Twist Setting

The objectives of the twisting process are:
l to prevent untwisting of yarn by itself,
l for uniform distribution of twist on the yarn, and
l to retain the twist inserted in the yarn.
Method: The twist setting equipment generally used consists of a copper vessel
with a perforated false bottom, below which would be boiling water heated through
fire wood or by electric coils. The Aluminum or plastic perforated tubes with twisted
silk is placed above the false bottom and the lid closed. This way the material is
steamed for required duration.

4.6.6 Re-Winding
The process by which twisted silk is rewound on to bobbins or converted to skeins
(for degumming, bleaching, dyeing) and transport.
Method: The machine is similar to winding machine but double sided and production
is more, from parallel tubes of twisting to double flanged bobbins or cones or cheeses
or hanks. Sometimes, the twisted perforated bobbins are soaked for a while in
water at room temperature before rewinding to remove stickiness or gum spots.

4.7 WEAVING PROCESS

It is a process of conversion of the silk fibres/threads into fabrics. It involves certain
pre-requisites as detailed below:
a) Warping - Warping is an operation of preparing the warp sheet required for
handlooms and power looms. For handlooms, warp length prepared should
be good to weave 6 to 12 sarees and, 60 to 100 sarees for power-looms.
While preparing the warps, allowances of 6 to 8 % in length should be provided
for crimp contraction (i.e., bending of yarn at every crossing of warp and weft) 65
Entrepreneurial Opportunities Warping machine consists of warping creel (Different capacity) and warping
in Sericulture
drum.
For handlooms, the above method is not economically viable. Hand operated
warping machine is used (50-100 bobbins) to make sections or balls. Finally,
prepare for warp sheets.
b) Pirn Winding – It is the preparation of weft yarns for weaving.
1. Handlooms: Pirns are of small size. Hand operated charakha is used.
2. Power Looms: Pirns are larger in size because yarn content is more. Pirn
winding machine may be auto or non-auto.
c) Weaving – This is done in order to interlace warp and weft threads to produce
fabric on any type of weaving machine. There are three important operations
called primary motion of weaving and must occur in a given sequence, but their
precise timing in relation to one another is also extremely important.
1. Shedding: Separating the warp threads, which run down the fabric, into
two layers to form a tunnel known as the shed.
2. Picking: Passing the weft thread, which traverses across the fabric, through
the shed.
3. Beating up: Pushing the newly inserted length of weft, known as the
pick, into the already woven fabric at a point known as the fell.
Two additional operations are essential if weaving is to be continuous.
1) Warp Control (Let-off): This motion delivers warp to the weaving area at the
required rate and at a suitable constant tension by unwinding it from a flanged
tube known as weavers beam.
2) Cloth Control (Take up): This motion withdraws fabric from the weaving
area at the constant rate that will give the required pick pacing and then winds
it on to a roller.
The weaving process is indicated in the following figure (Fig.4.12):

66 Fig. 4.12: Weaving Mechanism

 Post-Cocoon Sector
4.8 WET PROCESSING
It is the process of treatment of the yarn/fabric for giving a good finish.

4.8.1 Degumming
The removal of gum from silk is known as degumming or boiling-off. When the gum
is completely removed, the silk looses 20 to 30 % of its weight. It is advantageous
to use undegummed or partly degummed silk in the warp for weaving.
Method: Silk yarn in the form of yank is suspended on the smooth wooden or
stainless steel rod in a rectangular vessel containing 25-30% of the weight of silk.
The pH of the bath is maintained between 9.5 & 10.5. The yarn is treated at 90 -
95°C for 1 to 2 hours. Vigorous boiling is avoided as it tends to entangle the yarn.
The hanks are turned frequently.

4.8.2 Bleaching
This operation is required in case of yellow silk, which is to be made white. Silk
bleaching can be effected by the process of reduction or oxidation. Oxidation process
is preferred as it destroys the colouring matter.
Method: The bath should contain 3% in volume, which is best obtained by adding
to each litre of water, 30 cc of peroxide at 100 volume. The silk is put in the bath at
the temperature 50 to 60 °C slowly raised to 80 °C and kept in motion. It is then
completely immersed in the solution and allowed to cool to room temperature, taken
out, rinsed and brightened.

4.8.3 Dyeing
It can be dyed with direct dye, acid dyes, metallic complex dyes and reactive dyes,
which are commonly used. Basic dyes, Vat, solubolized vat dyes, azoic dyes and
mordant dyes are also used to a smaller extent. Most of the silk is dyed in hank form
in rectangular vats or on the rotating roller type of hank dyeing machine. Heavy
stains are dyed in the jigger. The material is handled carefully during dyeing to avoid
chafe marks.
Method: The dyestuff is dissolved in water, 10 to 40% glauber’s salt is added and
the goods entered in the dye bath at 40°C using material to liquor ratio of 1 : 40. The
temperature of the bath is raised slowly to 90°C and dyeing continued at this
temperature for 45 minutes to one hour. At the end of the dyeing period, 1 to 2%
glacial acetic acid or formic acid (80%) is added and dyeing continued for 10 to 15
minutes. For heavy shades 1 to 3% acetic acid or 8% ammonium acetate is added
to obtain satisfactory exhaustion.

4.8.4 Printing
Printing is reproduction of designs on the fabrics. There are two types of printing (1)
Block printing (2) Screen printing. Requirement for printing are (i) dye stuff, (ii)
solvent, (iii) thickener, (iv) levelling agent, (v) oxidizing agent.
Recipe: i) Dyestuff : x parts ii) Diethylene Glycol : 5 parts iii)Urea:5 parts iv)Thickener:
8 parts v) Ammonium sulphate : 5 parts : vi) acetic acid (40%) vii)Water (remaining
to 100 parts)
Method: Weigh the required amount of dyestuff in a beaker. Add a little quantity of
cold water, stir it, add di-ethylene glycol and urea, stir it properly, then add gum and 67
Entrepreneurial Opportunities remaining water to make 100 parts before printing. Add acetic acid or ammonium
in Sericulture
sulphate, stir well and print on bleached fabrics using screen. Dry the fabric for 30 to
60 minutes; keep it for steaming for 30 minutes at 102°C. Take out the fabrics,
wash with cold water and treat the fabric with 1 GPL Non-ionic detergent solutions
at room temperature for 5 minutes, then wash with cold water and dry the fabrics.

4.9 PROJECT FOR 100 ENDS MULTI END

REELING BASIN UNIT TO PRODUCE
10 KG RAW SILK/DAY
Requirement of men and material for establishment of 100 ends multiend reeling unit
is indicated below as a guideline to have an idea on the requirement.

Sl. Particulars Cost (Rs.)

No.
INVESTMENT
1. Land (60 x 50 ft.) 30,000
2. Building – 150 Sq. ft. @ Rs.150 / Sq. ft. 2,25,000
3. Water, electricity, etc., 20,000
4. Contingencies (10% on 2 & 3) 24,500
5. Machinery cost 5,02,700
6. Contingencies (10%) 50,270
7. Working capital 71,700
8. Estimated salaries 42,000
9. Contingencies (15%) 6,300
Total 9,72,470

I. Equipments
Sl. Equipments Number Cost (Rs.)
No.
1. Boiler (200 kg. Capacity) 1 80,000
2. Hot air stifling chamber (for bivoltine 1 25,000
cocoons 50 kg capacity
3. Steam stifling chamber (for multivoltine 1 10,000
cocoons 25 kg capacity
4. Cocoon racks (20 trays) each tray of 5 10 20,000
kg capacity
5. Multi end reeling machine 10 basin 1 unit 3,50,000
capacity along with 8 window re-reeling
and 2 nos. of 3 pan cooking units and
pressurized cooking units
6. Epprouvette 2 1,400
7. Denier scale 1 700
8. Examination stand 2 800
9. Balance (50 kg capacity) 1 10,000
10. Physical balance 1 500
11. Skeinning machine 1 400
12. Book pressing machine 1 900
13. Steel almirah for silk storage 1 3,000
Total 5,02,700

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II. Working capital Post-Cocoon Sector

Sl. No. Particulars Rs.

1. Estimated raw silk production per day (kg) 10
2. Expected Renditta 9
3. Quantity of cocoons required per day (kg) 90
4. Stock of cocoons minimum for 10 days (kg) 900
5. Number of working days per year 300
6. Quantity of silk produced per year (kg) 3,000
7. Quantity of cocoons required per year (kg) 27,000
8. Cost of cocoons in stock @ Rs.60 per kg 54,000
9. Wages for one month @ Rs. 20 per worker per day 13,200
(22 workers x Rs. 20 x 30 days) - Boiler: 1
;Cooking:5 ; Reeling:10 ; Re-reeling:1 ; silk
examination & booking : 2 ; Waste cleaner : 1 ;
cocoon stifling storing / sorting: 2
10. Overhead charges (Power, light, oil, water etc., per 4,500
month @ Rs.150 per day)
Total 71,700

III. Establishment Salaries

Sl. No. Establishment No. Per month Per year (Rs.)
salaries (Rs.)
1. Supervisor / Manager 1 2500 30,000
2. Clerk 1 1000 12,000
3. Contingencies (15%) 6,300
Total 48,300
IV. Revenue Per Year
Sl. Particulars Value (Rs.)
No.
1. By selling raw silk @ Rs.700 per kg 21,00,000
2. By selling silk waste (28% on silk wt.) @ Rs.45 37,800
per kg
3. By selling pupa (50% on cocoon wt.) @ Rs. 1 per 13,500
kg.
Total 21,51,300
V. Expenditure Per Year
Sl. No. Particulars Cost (Rs.)
1. Raw material (60 x 300 x 90) 16,20,000
2. Wages for one year (i.e. 300 days) 1,32,000
3. Overhead charges for 300 days 45,000
4. Salaries and contingencies 48,300
5. 5% depreciation on building 11,250
6. 10% depreciation on machinery 50,270
7. 12.5% interest on ¼ working capital 57,666
8. 12.5% interest on capital loan i.e., 62,838
machinery cost
Total 20,27,323
Total Revenue (Rs.) : 21,51,300.00
Total Expenditure (Rs.) : 20,27,323.00
Profit (Rs.) : 1,23,977.00
69
Entrepreneurial Opportunities
in Sericulture Check Your Progress 4
Note: a) Use the spaces given below for your answers.
b) Check your answer with those given at the end of the unit.
1) Why cocoons are to be sorted before reeling?
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2) What do you understand by cocoon cooking and reeling?
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4.10 LET US SUM UP

In this unit, the different activities involved in the conversion of the end product of
rearing i.e. cocoon into fabric are discussed. The important precautionary steps
that need to be taken during different activities right from the cocoon purchase,
transportation, stifling, storing, cooking, brushing, reeling and other processes are to
be kept in mind for running a reeling unit profitably.

4.11 GLOSSARY
Bale : A defined quantity of raw silk carefully wrapped as
a cotton cloth and gunny cloth. An Indian Bale weighs
20 Kgs.
Book : is a bundle of skeins of raw silk. A bale of Japanese
silk contains 30 books, each 2 kg. in weight and
containing about 30 skeins.
Cocoon : The silken shell spun by a silkworm larvae that serves
as protective covering to the insect during its pupal
stage of existence.
Cooking (Silk) : The process by which the silk cocoons are treated
in boiling water with a view to softening the filament
for easy unwinding during the subsequent reeling
process.
Degumming : A process of removing the sericin or gum from silk
yarn or fabric by boiling in a soap solution.
Denier : The unit for expressing the size of the silk filament.
It is weight in gms of 9,000 mts. of yarn.
Doubling : The twisting together of two or more silk threads to
70
give a yarn suitable for weaving.
Elongation : It is the distance between the length of stretched Post-Cocoon Sector
specimen and its initial length, expressed as a
percentage of initial length.
Fibroin : The fibre material of raw silk thread which is a protein
non-soluble in boiling water.
Filament : A fibre of indefinite or extreme length, eg. Silk
filament, which runs from 300 to 1,200 m.
Grade (Silk) : Classification of raw silk on the basis tests carried
out according to standard methods in silk conditioning
and testing house.
Gum : A sticky protein material that coats the filaments of
raw silk. This is otherwise called as “Sericin”.
Raw Silk : The silk reeled by drawing together the required
number of filaments from the cocoons and contains
its original gum or sericin.
Reeling : The process of unwinding silk filament from the
cocoon.
Tenacity : The tenacity of a material is the mass stress at break,
unit being grams per denier or per tex.

4.12 SUGGESTED FURTHER READING

Anonymous.2005. Technical Note, Central Silk Technological Research Institute,
Bangalore.
Anonymous, Reeling Techniques for Quality Silk, Central Silk Technological
Research Institute, Geethanjali printers, Bangalore.
Carboni, P. 1972. Silk Biology, Chemistry and Technology.
Manual on Bivoltine Silk Reeling Technology. 2003. JICA. Central Silk Board,
Bangalore.
Marks, R. and Robinson, R.T.G. 1976. Principles of Weaving, Textile institute of
Manchester.
Report on Silk Reeling by Dr. Chiyuki Takabayashi, February, 1992.
Report on Silk Reeling by Haruo Kinoshita, November, 1992.
Report of Silk Reeling by Kozo Tsubouchi, December, 1993.
Silk Reeling Technology by T.N. Sonwalkar.

4.13 REFERENCES
Anonymous. 2005. Technical Note, Central Silk Technological Research Institute,
Bangalore.
Anonymous. Reeling Techniques for Quality Silk, Central Silk Technological
Research Institute, Geethanjali printers, Bangalore.
Carboni, P. 1972. Silk Biology, Chemistry and Technology. 71
Entrepreneurial Opportunities Manual on Bivoltine Silk Reeling Technology, 2003 (JICA), Central Silk Board,
in Sericulture
Bangalore.
Marks, R. and Robinson, R.T.G, 1976, Principles of Weaving, Textile institute of
Manchester.
Report on Silk Reeling by Dr. Chiyuki Takabayashi, February, 1992.
Report on Silk Reeling by Haruo Kinoshita, November, 1992.
Report of Silk Reeling by Kozo Tsubouchi, December, 1993.
Silk Reeling Technology by T.N. Sonwalkar.

4.14 ANSWERS TO CHECK YOUR PROGRESS

Check Your Progress 1
1) Silk is an animal fibre used as a textile material.
2) The end uses are as saris, dress materials, scarves, wall hangings, furnishing
materials, neck-ties and also for industrial applications such as making
parachutes and electric insulation etc.
3) At the end of larval period the silkworm spins the cocoon to protect itself from
the climatic vagaries and as defense against natural enemies of the worm and is
immobilized during its critical period of pupation.
Check Your Progress 2
1) By sorting out the un-reelable, abnormal and unhealthy cocoons, which are
defective in nature and calculating its defective % vs. good cocoon %. (It can
be calculated by sorting out the defective and un reelable cocoons in 1 Kg.)
2) What do you understand by the following terms :
a) Cocoon shell % - It is a racial character. Higher the shell weight, higher
the raw silk weight.
It can be calculated as follows:

Shell weight of 20 Cocoons

Shell ratio = × 100
Weight of 20 Cocoons

8 (g)
Example = 40 (g) × 100 = 20%

b) Cocoon filament length - It is a length of the filament, unwounded by a

single cocoon after cooking or boiling.
c) Cocoon filament denier - It is a size of the filament. It is expressed as
denier.

Wt. in gms.
Denier = × 9000
Length in mts.

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 Post-Cocoon Sector
(0.300 g)
Example = × 9000 = 2.7d.
(1000 m)

Check Your Progress 3

1) It is a character of a cocoon which will be unwinding of filament without break/
drop of a cocoon. It is expressed in percentage.

Total no. of cocoons reeled

Reelability = × 100
Total [Link] castings

(300)
Example = (320) × 100 = 94%

2) It is a quantity of cocoons required to produce 1kg of raw silk.

3) Fresh / live cocoons are to be stifled to get the cocoon filament continuous in
reeling. Otherwise, the live silkworm (Moth) will emerge out by cutting the
shell. So, we will not be able to get the continuous filament in reeling.
4) We should preserve the stifled cocoons properly to protect them from rats,
ants and pests attack during storage. The preservation rooms must be well
ventilated with exhaust fans. Preserve cocoons in PVC/bamboo container with
perforation instead of jute or cotton bags.
Check Your Progress 4
1) The sorting of cocoons, is an important process in the reeling activity to obtain
good quality silk. The sorting is done for the purpose of removing the defective
cocoons and un-reelable cocoons.
2) Cocoons have to be cooked to soften the sericin for easy unwinding of the silk
fibre in reeling. Reeling is a process of making a raw silk thread by combining
8 – 10 cocoons on reeling machine.

73