As migration reshapes Kumaon’s villages, Ghee Sankranti loses its old flavour

Bageshwar: Ghee Sankranti, also known as Ghee Tyar, an old tradition of the hills, continues to be celebrated in Kumaon against the backdrop of migration and declining cattle rearing in hill villages, reducing the availability of home-produced milk, butter and ghee, traditionally central to the festival.Residents and local sellers said locally produced pure ghee had become increasingly difficult to source in parts of the hills, with prices reaching around Rs 1,000 a kg.For 80-year-old villager Bhagwat Singh, the change is quite visible within his village. “When I was young, almost every household kept a cow or buffalo. Ghee for the festival came from our own homes. Milk was turned into curd, butter and then ghee. Families also shared dairy products with neighbours. Today, many houses are locked and there are far fewer cattle. The festival remains, but the village around it has changed,” he said.Ghee Sankranti falls during the monsoon, a period when fields were lush and fodder was available for livestock. Increased milk production during this period made dairy products an important part of the festival.K S Rawat, an educationist, said the tradition dates back to the Chand dynasty and may have roots to a time period even earlier.“The festival also carries a health-related dimension. During the rainy season, people traditionally used ghee for body massage. It was considered beneficial for maintaining the body and protecting the skin during a period when dampness and infections were common,” he said.References in Badri Datt Pandey’s History of Kumaon describe the festival as part of the Olgia tradition during the Chand period, when agricultural produce and items made by artisans were exchanged as gifts, reflecting an economy closely tied to farming, livestock, craftsmanship and social relationships.“Earlier, the festival was not about buying things from the market. Much of what was needed came from the farm or the cattle shed. Today keeping cattle is difficult. Fodder has to be collected every day, animals need regular care and younger members of the family are often away for work or education. Many families have therefore reduced or stopped livestock rearing,” said Geeta Devi, a villager.Residents said migration had also altered the economic structure of many hill villages. As working-age residents moved to towns and cities, labour-intensive activities such as farming and cattle rearing became harder to sustain.A generation ago, households with cattle produced much of their own dairy requirement. Today, even families that continue to live in villages depend on the market for milk and ghee.