Solid Colour (green) SBS

A basic SBS and example of British Green applied to a Warlord Games Cromwell. Although green this principle can be used for any solid colour vehicle. And of course camouflage can then be added over the shaded and blended base if required.

Anyway here are the most common basic steps. More layers can be added within the steps for a more detailed finish, for example that’s usually the difference between a display vrs a gaming vehicle. Also not on this guy I haven’t added extensive wear or chipping. In this case it’s to show how you can still get an interesting finish on a “basic” and plain solid colour finish.

Step 1 – Assembly
Step 2 – Base Coat
Step 3 – Pre Shade
Step 4 – Drybrush/Blend
Step 5 – Lightening
Step 6 – Streaking
Step 7 – PIP Product Improvement
Step 8 – Detail blocking
Step 9 – Post Shading
Step 10 – Chipping/Wear (not used on this model)
Step 11 – Markings
Step 12 – Pigments and dust

Process

Step 1 – Assembly

No pics, it only has 14parts (10 white metal and 4 resin) so you’ll have to imagine resin grinding sounds and the smell of Superglue.

Step 2 – Base Coat

I base coat in Humbrol enamel (and finish in acrylics). Any colour green as it’s just to cover the resin and key the rest of the painting process.
It’s nothing flash to look at now, basic detail and rather unassuming …..

Step 3 – Pre Shade

Lay in shadows using a black/brown wash mix.
Nothing pretty here, I keep roughly to panel lines and shadow areas but any overslop isn’t an issue – it’ll get covered over in the next step.

Step 4 – Drybrush/Blend

I use my preferred mix of British green acrylic and drybrush it over the tank until the panel shading is just showing.
In reality it’s probably more of a stippling action than a drybrushing. You’re aiming for a solid centre with some feathering of of colour.
The final pic in this series shows the drybrushing finished and as it sits before beginning any weathering.

Step 5 – Lightening

I mix in a little yellow with the green and concentrate on the panel centres and edges of plates.
The effect I’m aiming for a slightly worn/faded shade of the base British green.
Plus each additional step adds to the colour build up and depth of final finish.

Step 6 – Streaking

Before starting and using a big and very soft brush I give the whole tank a very light drybrush of oily steel mix.
The horror of silver drybrushing I hear many cry! Don’t worry, it works.
Tanks are steel and it doesn’t matter what colour they’re painted with IRL they still look … steely.

Mixing in a little buff with the green and using a small stiffer brush I drybrush the mix on in streaks to simulate rain streaking and blown dust.
The aim is to keep this subtle but even then you’d be surprised at how visible it is on the finished tank and how it adds some interest to the monotone green.

Step 7 – PIP Product Improvement

Why this late you ask?
Mainly because the drybrushing/blending/shading can be a little hard on small parts so I’ve gotten into the habit if adding them late.
Plus this is a very basic kit (13parts) so little additions help fool the eye into overlooking the some of the simplicity.

For this I added a turret stowage box, light brush guards, cable for the turret spotlight and aerials.

Step 8 – Detail blocking

Now I tidy up any details and base coat things like mg’s, tools, hatch pads etc.
All these will get a final shade and weathering too.
At this stage I also handpainted the allied stars.

Step 9 – Post Shading

Here I go over the panel lines with a pin wash of black/brown mix.
Also using a much thinner mix I shade around hatches and vents and main details, also under the track guards and the bottom of the hull.
This step adds to the definition and contrast.

Step 10 – Chipping and Wear

I often and chipping and wear to my gaming vehicles. Recently I’ve been completing more vehicle without it, aiming for a dusty/used look rather than a hard ridden combat vehicle. It’s a phase really 🙂

Anyway when I add chipping, and I think it’s worth making a point that it’s not really meant to represent paint peeling off as such, mostly it’s intended to represent grime and minor wear, peeling paint is for burnt out or rusty wrecks in my opinion.

The colour is use is a grey that has a little blue and a touch of purple added. I apply the grey using a fine detail brush, often using the edge for a fine scraping type application. One other thing is that less is often more and I don’t doubled highlight using a lighter colour as I personally feel that looks “cartoony”. Chips and wear can also be applied with sponge but I don’t feeling that it sometimes can give any overly fine and even look to paint wear. Paint tends to scrap and chip, not buff off which is something more likely seen in a temporary paint scheme like whitewash.

Anyway one last thing I often do is give the chipping a very light oily steel drybrush and sometimes a pin-wash with very thinned chestnut ink, which further adds a layer of grime.

Some examples from other builds

Step 11 – Markings

No pics unfortunately.
Most wargaming models don’t include decals so you have to either by them or in this case rob spares from a Tamiya 1/48th Cromwell which I’m building next ! lol
I don’t shoot my models with all over gloss so here I just brush paint on some humbrol satin varnish on the decal locations.
Waterslide em on and finish with a brushing of decal softener/setting solution to help the edges sit down tight.
The satin bits will go when the model gets it’s final matt varnish.

Step 12 – Pigments and Dust

I cover the tracks with a mixed slurry of MiG pigments.
I thin some and run it around some of the panels and fittings with a fine detail brush.
The markings/decals are also faded and blended in with a thin wash of yellow.
The exhaust vents get a soft black followed by grey drybryush to simulate soot and deposits.

When the pigments have dried off the model gets a very light matt varnishing using a Testors Dullcoat rattlecan.
If you hit it now too heavily the pigments will dull off and almost disappear.

Next I dust the tracks and lower hull and sides with my own mix of crushed pigment (it’s old dried up humbrols crushed with mortar and pestle).
Finally the track track edges teeth and links are drybrushed with an oily steel mix.

A quick check and another light matt varnish and it’s ready for the table.