We’re all here! (Because we’re not all there)

The arrival ordeal ended – Tosso and Danimal arrived, picked up the van, drove to Luchon, unpacked, put their bikes together, drove back to Toulouse to pick me up (my flight arrived 11 PM instead of the 9 AM when they arrived), and drove back to Luchon. In bed around 2 AM.

Awoke at 8:30 to the sound of running water. Tosso went to buy breakfast fixings, Danimal made breakfast while T and I assembled my bike. After I did the dishes we hit the road for a short warmup ride.

Road to Super Bagneres (a ski resort)
Waterfall in Valle de Lys
Road to Hospice de France – not one of the steeper sections
A warning on one of the steeper sections
My epitaph – “Tim said it would be fun” – 3400 feet of climbing over 15 miles. Lunch at ~4400 feet.

T had suggested a 50-60 mile warmup ride despite not much sleep for two nights. This was plenty, but also plenty beautiful.

During the climb we passed a shrine to the Virgin Mary. I though about athletes crossing themselves as they enter the field of play. I used to pooh-pooh that – are they praying for god to make them win?

But then I had a new thought. Much as hunters might thank an animal for giving its life to feed them, maybe it’s about not taking anything for granted. While I might not thank a god, I realized again in that moment that one bad crash, or maybe just getting older, could mean that I couldn’t do this anymore.

Stopping to catch my breath partway up our second climb, Peter Green and Fleetwood Mac came to mind: “I can’t help about the shape I’m in – I can’t sing, I ain’t pretty, and my legs are thin.” (If you want to take a break here and listen to Oh, well, be my guest.)

During the Tour de France broadcast Thursday, they showed a helicopter shot of a valley and mountainside not unlike the first photo here and mentioned that those views are everywhere you look. I did some more looking.

Post-ride rehydration

While it was hot on the climb, we had a light rain during lunch at the summit and it cooled down for the descent. Thunder rumbled as we returned to Luchon and we stopped to rehydrate at a bar owned by an Australian woman and her French husband. I asked for Cooper’s Ale. She gave me a hard time so I settled for Kronenbourg (founded in the Holy Roman Empire in 1664 and now brewed in Strasbourg).

We watched the end of the Tour stage and went home to shower and change, then enjoyed a lakeside dinner of Pyrenean trout for two us us and lamb chops for the third – in the rain but under shelter.

“Lake” seems a generous term for this little fishing hole.

Back home we watched the second half as Spain beat Belgium 2-1 and stayed up way past bedtime.

The Adventure Begins

I must look dishonest today. While I zipped through my local airport’s TSA checkpoint in seconds, my “personal item” was thoroughly searched after I had to check my carry-on bag due to lack of bin space.

Our flight out of Atlanta was delayed due to the need to wait for a new crew to arrive. Arriving in Paris at dawn, I was subjected to another thorough search even though I hadn’t left the secure area of an airport. Every item was removed and inspected, then the bag was swabbed for explosive residue. Actually, they showed little interest in the electronics. It was the toiletries and energy bars that drew their interest. The link below is pretty close to what actually happened.

https://www.youtubetrimmer.com/view/?v=7VO_peqgDRc&start=92&end=99&loop=0

By the time they finished with me, my flight was leaving. Tosso and Danimal were on board. I was not. I went to the customer service desk and they told me they could get me on another flight – in 14 hours. I asked about my baggage (which now meant pretty much everything except toiletries, electronics, and my helmet). They assured me it hadn’t left Paris on the flight. (How did they know I was going to miss the flight so as not to load my baggage?)

My AirTag says the bike is still here. While I might be able to get a seat on a train arriving hours earlier than the 10:35 PM of the plane, I’d have to wrangle all of my luggage from the airport to the train station – after convincing them to release it to me in Paris when it was checked through to Toulouse.

Update: Danimal says my carry-on did not appear on the baggage carousel in Toulouse, so it should be here with the bike.

I should be in the Pyrenees but at least I got to see the Pyrenees. Today’s Tour de France stage climbed the Col d’Aspin and the Col su Tourmalet, which were on our tentative agenda for Friday. Maybe they’ll wait until we return from Andorra – since today was supposed to include putting my bike back together and a test ride. We had talked with the apartment owner about early check-in, thinking we’d arrive before noon, not after midnight.

Tour de France

By the time you read this, I will be on my way. First stop Atlanta, then Paris, on to Toulouse, and then to this apartment in Bagnères-de-Luchon. We’ll reassemble our bikes and see the local sights for a few days. Two years ago only one of us brought his own bike. Two of us rented. Did we learn a lesson? Maybe it is a bit more reassuring to be on a familiar bike when descending an unfamiliar mountain road without guardrails on curves with steep cliffs dropping off one side.

On Sunday we will head for the sprawling metropolis of Luscan (population 46 or 70, depending on which site you believe) for a day at Pyrenees MultiSport before we leave France for Spain on Monday. On Tuesday we ride on to Andorra where we’ll hang out for a few days. By “hang out” I mean climb all of the passes we can find in the area. Then back to France via the highest paved pass in the Pyrenees (Port d’Envalira (2,408m or 7900 ft) and a few days at PMS to climb any local passes we missed. And maybe lunch in Spain – in a restaurant that appears to be open only three afternoons per week. A description of the middle week (our “official” tour) is here: https://pyreneesmultisport.com/tours/andorra-cycling-holiday/

An embarrassment of riches

What to do, what to do…I could watch the Tour de France (which started Saturday and continues until July 26), or the World Cup (which continues until July 19)…or both, since they’re in different time zones. Or I could just ride my bike in the mountains every day for the next few weeks. I think I’ll pick C.

See you down the road. The plan is to post after each day’s ride.

Reasons to go on another bike trip

  • It says “bike tour” right in the subhead of this blog
  • WordPress keeps telling me to monetize my blog. What better way to spend money than another bike trip? What? Did you say “monetize” means I’m supposed to make money?
  • A big trip every couple of years is cheaper than seeing a therapist every week and arguably better for my mental health.
  • Some of you readers have need for vicarious adventures. I’m just filling that need.
  • I already have a passport. It’s a waste of money if I don’t use it.
  • Look at all the money I save by not buying a gym membership and riding a bike instead.
  • If I go places in real life, I don’t have to pay for simulations on Zwift or Strava.
  • Since I had to endure the 250th anniversary Independence Day in the US as a personal holiday to honor Der Führer, I might as well spend Bastille Day in France. (Okay, technically, I’ll be in Andorra that day. Don’t tell anyone.)

It’s fun.

All packed? Bike and bike clothes. Do I need anything else?