I heard that the TV series Reply 1988 (which aired in 2015-16 and is the final part of a non-linked trilogy of Replies, also including Reply 1997 and Reply 1994) is one of the most beloved TV dramas in South Korea, but less well-known and loved abroad. One of the reasons for that (and the one that put me off watching it initially) is that it’s 20 episodes of 90-110 minutes each, which is a huge time commitment. The other reason might be that it doesn’t contain any of the twists and turns and cliffhangers of typical K dramas: no revenge plots, no whodunit mysteries, no lost twins adopted from orphanages and misplaced in chaebol families, no time travel or amnesia, not even ill-fated romances. Instead, it is an immersive experience of living alongisde five families on the same street in the Ssangmundong neighbourhood in Seoul in 1988, just as the city is hosting the Olympic Games. It shows the friendship among the five kids (four boys and a girl) who’ve known each other almost since birth, as well as the bickering, teasing, food, financial and moral support that the neighbours provide for each other. Although the first episode might make you feel there is too much screeching and physical violence going on, and some of the characters (both parents and children) can feel farcical and over the top, it is worth persevering, because as the series develops you develop much more sympathy for every one of the characters, as you realise they all have their problems and shortcomings but also admirable traits. Nothing much happens – and yet everything happens, life itself with all its major and minor joys and aches. You become addicted this gentle, warm-hearted look at daily lives, their hopes and disappointments, their quarrels and misunderstandings, the need to grasp and make the most of each fleeting moment, to tell our loved ones just how much they mean to us while we still can.
1988 was a key year in South Korean history, and hosting the Olympics brought about a turning point to the politics and economics of the country, and this is beautifully (but not heavy-handedly) conveyed in the series. What particularly resonated with me was that I was almost the exact age of the young protagonists in 1988 and had been hoping to go to the Seoul Olympics to compete in athletics (I gave up a year or so earlier, when I realised that Romania had too many good athletes and I stood little chance of getting selected). That’s why so many of the details about the clothes and shoes, make-up, walkmans, mix tapes, videos, even high school games they played all resonated with me. It gave me a warm, fuzzy feeling, and reminded me that I also have many wonderful and happy memories associated with those years, not just the sudden flooding of trauma and regrets that arose recently after discovering some hitherto unsuspected bad behaviour from my mother, which led to me rereading my high-school diaries.
While I didn’t have such continuous friendships (having lived abroad for a good part of my childhood), there were some really close and dear friends in high school and we did spend all our free time at each other’s houses, watching videos of Duran Duran and Madonna, or smuggled films, or mooching about outside our blocks of flats until our parents called us in for dinner. Our mothers also exchanged dishes (despite the shortage of ingredients), our fathers exchanged bottles of home-made brandy, and we would occasionally borrow each other’s clothes and make-up. We also tried to imitate dance moves – more specifically, we tried to do breakdancing (so the recent ‘breaking’ at the Olympics added to my nostalgia). And we also discovered many years later that some of the boys in our friendship group quite fancied some of us girls, but were too shy to tell us so.

However, watching it now, I’m at the age of the parents in the series, who constantly struggle with financial pressures, worry about their children’s future, complain about their marriages and lack of communication or sex lives, or realise that the years have gone by and they are very far removed from the expectations they had in their youth,. Nevertheless, they have each other – or at least they do until they all move out of that neighbourhood. I liked the fact that the parents were complete characters in themselves, with their own hopes and dreams, occasionally putting pressure on their children, but never as extremely interfering or unreasonable as in some other K dramas.
The series feels so true to life, because we see time passing, the children growing up, life separating them; ultimately, the neighbourhood is abandoned and then demolished to make way for blocks of flats.
Time will always flow. Everything will pass by. Everything will age. That might be why youth is beautiful. It shines, blindingly bright, for just an instant. But you can never go back to it… This is the end of our Ssamundong story. Longing for that time and longing for that street is not because I miss a younger version of myself. It’s because it was the place of my father’s youth, of my mother’s youth, of my friends’ youth. It’s the place that holds the youth of everyone I love. I regret being unable to say my final farewell to that place, where we can never all gather again. To the things that are already gone, to a time that has already passed, I want to say a belated farewell. Goodbye, my youth. Goodbye, Ssamundong. A time so warm and pure, that it was painful.
The series is a love letter to a certain time and place, but also the people who make such a time and place unforgettable. I enjoyed it very much and heartily recommend it to those who like a slower-paced, low-key, charming TV series running on vibes and character development rather than exciting plotlines. It got me ruminating, however, about the power and the dangers of nostalgia. The term ‘nostalgia = nostos + algia, literally the ache for returning home’ was coined by Swiss medic Johannes Hofer in 1688 to describe the homesickness that was particularly frequent in Swiss mercenary soldiers who pined for their mountain landscapes when out fighting wars in other countries. A century later it was also used to describe the condition that beset many of the crew sailing with Captain Cook, and it was seen as something to be feared or to be ashamed of, a disease that caused depression, lethargy, fever, and in some cases even death.
Psychologists have become more nuanced when discussing nostalgia nowadays. Some of them see the personal benefits of a moderate dwelling in nostalgia (which is hopefully what I’ve been doing for the past month or two, as I reconnect with my past with a view to possibly writing a memoir): it can help combat loneliness and sadness when we reminisce about a period in our lives when we were happy and felt connected. By triggering happy emotions and memories, it acts as a sort of abstract ‘pacifier’ that can soothe us when times are rough or even just a bit dull. The danger is when we become so wedded to the past that we find it difficult to accept and live in the present – whether as individuals or as a society (or social group) that is forever harking back to some glorious past, often a selectively remembered or even entirely imagined glorious past.
This is where it gets interesting for me as an anthropologist, for I see many worrying about and denouncing the so-called ‘Ostalgie’ in the former German Democratic Republic. It was (and sometimes still is) perceived by most West Germans as a lack of willingness to integrate or an attempt to reverse German reunification, but in fact it is a coping mechanism for East Germans who suddenly found their whole way of life, which contained happy memories as well as brutal and difficult ones, swept away and devalued. It is a way to validate and value their own experiences, and I see that with many of my friends of similar age from Romania too. The challenges of living under Communism meant we all experienced the same hardships, having hot water only for a couple of hours a day, or power cuts every day, having to queue for hours for eggs or milk or flour, having to tread a very fine line with censorship (which was, let’s admit it, at times a very thrilling line for us young people – to see what you could get away with!). The fact that none of us could rise too much above the others in terms of wealth or power (at least, not in our non-party-elite circles), this all created a sense of solidarity and community which got lost very quickly once competitive capitalism had us in its thrall. Reply 1988 suggests that this was what happened to South Korea as well, which is perhaps why it felt so relatable.

What does puzzle me is when opinion polls in Romania show that quite a significant proportion of people believe that Communism was a good thing for Romania (48.1%) and that living standards were better under Communism (46.4% of all responses). While I admit that some of the changes were sudden and brutal, while other hoped-for improvements are taking too long to materialise, this is really selective amnesia or uncritical nostalgia and I hope that young people who never experienced that period themselves do not fall prey to it. As mentioned above, this is the dangerous kind of ‘Ostalgie’, which is not really about the East, but more about nationalist, so-called ‘anti-woke’ propaganda.
As I watched the Olympic Games in Paris, I have to admit that I was slightly sad that Romania won so few medals (more than in the previous few Olympic Games, but a definite decline since 2004), when in our heyday in 1984 and 1988 we won so many. But then I remember the pros and cons of the training camps and the harsh training regimes, and any regrets I might have are firmly stopped right there in their tracks. Sometimes the past is not as comforting as we believe it to have been, or at least not for others, even if it was sort of okay for ourselves. I prefer to temper my nostalgia with realism, but I can also fall in love with TV shows that make us come to terms with our past.










