The inspiration for this Loft came when I stumbled across this blog, The Handmade Home. Their loft bed was pretty awesome. Perhaps I could build a loft bed too!? And the wall in Sullivan's room just happened to long enough for two normal-sized twin beds, end-to-end....fantastic luck! So, I read through every last comment on that loft bed project, which had a lot of good suggestions for building it better and sturdier. Then I spent hours googling DIY bunk beds, and reading and looking at blogs and bunk beds/loft ideas to tweak it a bit. The Ana White Website was extremely helpful, and is where I got the idea and super easy instructions for the stairs.
I also did a quick consultation with Eric's BFF construction expert, Darin, showing him a rough sketch of what I planned to do and asking him how I should build it. He gave me great ideas for making it sturdier and better and supported my vision that it could be done. I also consulted my cousin, Tami, who had recently made a loft bed for her boys, exactly like what I wanted to make. So, with their reliable recommendations, I sketched, measured, calculated and came up with a plan.
What we ended up with is an awesome loft bad that will fit two normal twin-sized mattresses, end to end, with an 18-inch gap in between the ends of the two beds. Sullivan sleeps on one side (and loves it!), and the other side is just additional play space right now (which both our kids love). but when Eliza outgrows her crib in the next 6 months or so, she'll have a bed up there as well. Sullivan can not wait to share a room. He's a social creature and really hates to be alone...but then again, what kid doesn't!?

The kids love this loft bed, and I must admit, I do too. It's fun, functional, and I think, quite pretty. It is a little on the bulky side, and does take up 1/3 of the visual space in his room, but we now have 100% of the floor space to play with. Good trade. And with the addition of the curtains, it's their own private fort, any time of day. They LOVE the curtain feature.
So here's how it all came together:
I purchased all my lumber at Burton Lumber, and they were fantastic. It was so easy to go in, tell them exactly what I wanted, pay for it, and then just load the lumber right into my car, unlike at Lowe's or Home Depot, where you wander around maneuvering long pieces of lumber onto your cart, check those awkward pieces out, then try to load it all into your car by yourself. So, I'd highly recommend Burtons (or any lumber yard) for any big projects where a lot of different lumber is required. They also delivered (for free since they were dropping off in my direction anyway!?) my 14' pieces of wood and the wafer boards that wouldn't fit in my Mazda 5. Bless them forever! They were the bomb.com.
Buy and Cut List for The Loft:
1 - 14' - 2x6 - cut at 167" - to be bolted into the studs along the back wall.
1 - 8' - 2x6 - cut 2 pieces at 37" each - to bebolted into the studs on the side walls.
1 - 8' - 4x4 - cut into 2, at 4' each, for added leg support on both ends of loft.
1 - 14' - 1.75" x 9.5" Microlam - cut at 167" - front support beam. This item was suggested by contractor Darin, and is a special, loadbearing beam that would ensure the middle of the loft wouldn't sag or break. I called up Burton Lumber and gave them my project description and measurements, and they calculated what size of microlam I would need to span the front of my loft. Easy peasy. The cost for this one piece of lumber was $50, but was totally worth it to ensure safety and support.
1 - 10' - 2x4 - cut into three pieces at 37" each - joists
1 - 8' - 2x4 - cut into two pieces at 37" each - joists
2 - 8' - Wafer boards, cut to 40"x 83.5" each - flooring of the loft
Buy and Cut list for the Rails:
2 - 10' - 2x4 - cut each board into 3 pieces at 34" with each end angled at 45 degrees - for the 6 vertical supports.
2 - 6' - 1x6 - cut each board at 70", with one end angled at 45 degrees - for the bottom, horizontal rail.
6 - 6' - 1x4 - cut each board at 70", with one end angled at 45 degrees - for the top three, horizontal rails (3 rails on each side, totaling 6 rails).
Buy and Cut list for the Stairs:
2 - 8' - 2x6 - each cut at 68" - then cut each end at 45 degrees, these are the sides of the steps that span the four feet from the top of the loft to the ground.
3 - 8' - 2x4 - each cut length into 4 pieces, at 24" each - these are your stair steps. This will give you 12 pieces of wood, or enough for 6 steps (at 2 pieces per step). I only used 5 steps, which I think are perfect. My first attempt at stairs only had four steps. I later added one more step, which ended up being much more doable for little legs.
1 - 8' - 1-1 - cut into 10 pieces at 7.75" each, with each end angled at 45 degrees, with the angles parallel to each other - these are your stair cleats.
Once the lumber was bought, I (yes, me, not my husband) cut each piece to size, then spent a significant amount of time sanding, priming, and painting BEFORE assembling it. Eric clearly helped with the painting (proof below), as did Sullivan, and Eric's co-worker, Sally. :) I was a little nervous that we were spending all this time sanding, priming, and painting and that it wasn't all going to fit together right, and I'd end up having to recut something, somewhere and do the whole process over again. But every last piece ended up fitting together like a perfect puzzle. Glory Hallejuah! Hooray for math and correct calculations...measure twice, cut once!

Assembling the Loft:
Assembling is definitely a two-person job, And I have to give Eric credit for putting in nearly every last screw (he loves a good powertool). And this took us ALL weekend long. Cutting, sanding, painting, assembling...repeat.
We put the loft itself together using 28 lag bolts and washers, in two sizes, 5" and 4". We used 8 lag bolts to attach our long 2x6 into the studs along the back wall. Then we used 8 lag bolts to attached the side pieces into the studs along the side wall (4 bolts per side). Then we bolted the 4x4 posts into the 2x6 end pieces, using 2 lag bolts per post. Then 2 lag bolts were bolted into each end of the front beam, into the 4x4 post.

Then we used 10 deck brackets to hang our 5 joists, with normal wood screws. Then we set the wafer boards on top, and screwed those down by placing a wood screw in each joist.

Note: A decent screw drive is imperative to the success of this project. Our 12v was worthless. The 24V we borrowed was amazing.
Assembling the Railing:
We measured and spaced the 3 - 34" vertical rails (per side) and used two lag bolts each to secure them in place from the backside of the front beam...except for the vertical rails near the walls. Those we had two screw in from the front using 4 wood screws each (which I later covered with wood plugs), and we had to chisel out some notches to cover the lag bolts that were in the way. Then we used wood screws to attach the 1x6 board horizontally along the bottom of the loft (from the inside). Then we screwed in the very top rail with wood screws (again from the inside), then measured and evenly spaced for the remaining two rails, screwed them in (from the inside), and were done. Then we repeated on the other side. Super simple, and super sturdy.

Assembling the Stairs:
To assemble the stairs we really just followed Ana White's stair instructions and diagrams. We layed out our 2x6 boards on our counter top, evenly spaced and positioned our cleats on the board so the angles of the cleats were parallel to the edge of the board and centered in the middle of the board, and screwed them in. Then we screwed in the cleats in identical positions on the other board (we eyeballed it), then we screwed the stair steps into the cleats, then screwed the entire stairway into the loft from the backside of our microlam beam, using 4 lag bolts and washers (two per side). Surprisingly easy. Eric was SO skeptical about the stairs and kept asking me if I was sure I wanted him to just screw in the cleats where I told him to, shooting me incredibly skeptical glances the whole time. I think he was definitely surprised that it was actually so easy, and that it actually turned out like Ana White told me it would. To be honest, I was pretty surprised, myself!? :) Thank you Ana White!

Once everything was assembled and screwed into place, I filled in all the wood screw holes in the railing and stairway with wood putty, then went over everything with some touch-up paint.
Well, while I'd claim it's better than your average, store bought bunk bed, it still cost a substantial sum. Here's the breakdown:
Lumber: $200
Bolts/Screws/Washers/Deck Brackets: $100.00. Don't ask me how screws and bolts added up to this amount, but it sure did over the course of the weekend. (though we still have lots of screws left over in varying sizes from 3", 2.5", and 2" sizes, and we did use the premium wood screws that were self-piloting...but totally worth the extra $2 per pack!)
Paint/Primer: $40...one gallon primer, one gallon white paint, though we still around a half gallon of each left.
Copper Pipe Curtain Rod: $30 (includes 2 rods, pipe-cutter, 2 end caps, 3 brackets)
Material for Curtains: $15 (for 8 yards of fabric at $1.69/yard on black Friday Sale at JoAnns)
Total Cost: $385
So, maybe not cheaper, but definitely better. Let me know if you have any question or want to do something like this in your house! This project is proof that you can do anything with the help of Pinterest and Google and a few hand-me-down power tools. If I could manage to pull this off, you certainly could too!

























